Why do Lapel Size and Shape Matter?
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- čas přidán 6. 05. 2022
- Okey explains how the right lapel size, gorge height and line give your jacket proportion and balance, presenting your natural shape and stature in their best light. Extending, raising or widening the lapels of your jacket will make you look taller or shorter, wider or slimmer and can enhance the overall fit and look of your clothes. The AskOkey jacket is designed with a relatively high gorge, standard 3.5 inch notch lapels. AskOkey's tailors will cut the lapels to best suit the measurements that you send us to ensure perfect proportions and fit.
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This is a unbelievably underrated channel.
Thank you Goofy. As Abraham Lincoln once said … “I shall prepare myself. And perhaps my chance will come”. We do what we do with excellence. Let success meet us where it will. Till then, we continue to give you our best. PROFF
I agree
Wow. Real trousers, real lapels, a real jacket length. Nice to see, my friend.
Excellent lesson once again. You dropped several gems of information, not only about classic lapel dimensions, gorge height, but also about the correct way to put on a jacket. Your trousers are truly immaculate and I was nearly drooling over the beautiful trouser break. Well done to you and the team sir.
Thank you Mighty Kam. Are you already following on Instagram? @askokeyig
@@AskOkeyInc Not yet because I do not have an Instagram account but I intend to create a Discord account and will join the server once I do.
@@ruliadultra Fantastic! Please do. The link is in the description box below the videos. PROFF
You saved me from getting rid of a well loved navy blazer because the lapel width is 3.75 in.,not the standard 3.5in. 😊...
With great pleasure sir 😁
Welcome aboard
The nice thing about the prof, he does respond to comments, he’s out there 😃
Great episode, I learned a lot today. This channel is for me hands down the best resource on classical menswear on YT. Thanks for sharing the knowledge!
Thank you Ravishing Rick! Means a lot to us. We put a lot of love into what we do at AskOkey. Pls also follow us on Instagram @askokeyig and on Tik-Tok @askokey PROFF
Okey, your knowledge about tailoring and clothing is simply excellent, thorough, and go to the micro details. As for your prices, i simply don't afford it.
Understood Cliff. Our prices reflect the quality and effort that go into the product sir
This is a topic rarely talked about, but the "Proff" once again giving a masterclass on style! Best knowledge as well as the best dressed man on the planet. (AskOkey) clothes are a sartorial dream!🙏
Thank you Scottie! You know how we do. Watch this SPACE! PROFF
Now that's real expertise. Very insightful and inspiring, thanks Proff!
Grazi Marco Caro. I know you’re always paying attention in class (on the blog) 😁. Stay tuned for more premium content from AskOkey. PROFF
Thank you so much for this informative video. Love it.
With great pleasure Kashish 🙌🏾
PROFF
These videos could benefit from more visual inserts and diagrams. The info is incredible!! But CZcams is a visual medium so the explanations should not just be verbal but visual with lots of different moving images and camera angles.
Duly noted 😁
This was one of our very early productions. More recent videos contain more visuals
Thank you for an informative video!
Thank you dear Fred 🙌🏾
Welcome to AskOkey sir 😁
PROFF
This is excellent…I’m in my 40’s and I wished that these things were taught to me. Never too late to learn …and now I can pass these timeless lessons onto my son.
ABSOLUTELY Raheem 💯
Better late than never 😁
Best lapel video I have watched! Thank you!
THANK YOU Konstantin 🙌🏾
Please take some time to view our entire video library here on CZcams. You’ll be equally enlightened.
Welcome to AskOkey Sir!
PROFF
I think something important to consider for very tall gentleman is the the three-button coat. I think I first see the style in the 1910s where it seems to work quite elegantly, and today, to wear a three-button is a huge faux-pas. I think the three-button coat worked so well in the 1910, because the ideal man was a tall lanky 5'10", for the time (anyone who has dealt with garments from the era will immediately see how small they were). Whereas today, that is average. When most men are around that height, the short lapels and high stance of the three-button look off relative to everyone else. But I think, if my clients are over 6'2", depending on their build, it is some I would consider having made in their suits.
I agree Max 💯
I always recommend a TRUE 3-BUTTON to my tall customers
Thank you for pointing this out 🔥
@@AskOkeyInc Of course, Prof! And with confidence. We are going to bring it back! Cheers from America, where some of my clients are so interested in the real and incredibly elegant tradition of suiting!
@@maxwellgarrison2983 Well said Max 🔥
Fabulous informative videos Okey.
Masterclass in sartorial dressing in every episode, your content inspires, motivates and gives us knowledgeable direction in our menswear journey.
Thank you John. Pleas don’t forget to follow us on Instagram @askokeyig
This man is a pure treasure.
Another great episode, thank you for your continued preaching of the gospel of classic menswear
Thank you lil’ bro! See you on the blog. Also follow us on Instagram @askokeyig and on Tik-Tok @askokey PROFF
Hi Okey. I really enjoy watching your channel and am always fascinated by how much I learn. You're also probably the best dressed guy I've ever seen. But I think in this episode you use the word 'Vertically Challeged' to describe a short person. Now if you're short and are offended at the word short or small you really are going to struggle in life. I personally don't mind it at all. However when I hear you say vertically Challeged' I did find it quite offensive (I could write for an hour about why it's offensive but I appreciate both of our time) 😂. I Googled the phrase and this is the response ... "According to the Diversity Style Guide, remarks that include “midget” or “vertically challenged” are highly offensive and outdated, reminiscent of “the height of the 'freak show' era” when people with dwarfism were displayed for public amusement." So I would really thank you to try not to use the phrase moving forward as I still really enjoy your channel and plan on continuing to watch ever episode. Thanks Okey.
Vertically absent would be fine I think if you want to expand your vocabulary.
Amazing knowledge
Thank you Kornelius. And welcome to AskOkey. Please be sure to follow us on Instagram @askokeyig. PROFF
Great Video!
Thank you EVP
Welcome aboard 😁
Excellent Professor! Major
Thank you Major! We miss you on the blog. PROFF
In understand the half rule now, thank you. Is there a general jacket size rule to match lapel size. That something that says jackets 32-38 2.75 - 3", 42-48 3.25- 3.5", 50+ 4" ?
Thanks ❤
Most welcome Mohammed. And welcome to AskOkey sir. Do you follow us on Instagram? @askokeyig
PROFF
This guy saved my wedding.
I’m delighted Joseph 🔥
20:46
I don't think that, but I like your honesty.
Thanks for the video
Please clarify Sam. You don’t like skinny lapels or you like them? 😁 Thank you for chiming in and welcome to AskOkey.
Do you follow us on Instagram? @askokeyig
PROFF
@AskOkey I thought that the size of the lapels depended on the morphology of the person.
So if a person is like me (1m68cm
And 54-55 kilograms, athletic), the lapels shouldn't be wide and low.
I thought that it can accentuate the unflattering characteristics of the body.
Thanks anyway, your videos give me good inspiration.
@@samyguerroury8980 No one size fits all Sammy. If you’re 168cm and athletic, you should wear a slightly higher than average (Classic) gorge. However, lapel size IMHO should still be close to classic (3.5”). Maybe 3.25” if you’re slight of build.
Welcome to AskOkey.
PROFF
Was there a reason why you turn your coat inside out before placing it on the table?
The tie looks great. Where is it from sir ?
Thank you James. From EG CAPPELLI of Napoli. Pls follow us on Instagram @askokeyig and Tik-Tok @askokey. PROFF
Came across this channel just today, and I am hooked. I need this kind of detailed knowledge on tailoring. I do have a question though: to give the illusion of wide shoulders/chest, do you recommend wider than 3.5 inches of lapel?
You’re ABSOLUTELY WELCOME Muhammad.
Illusion of width at the shoulder is derived from a combination of elements on the coat.
1. The shoulders have to be cut with an “EXTENSION” beyond the natural shoulder line.
2. The Chest MUST be BUILT UP with basting and a DRAPED CHEST
3. The above TWO allow for SUPPRESSION in the waist which make the shoulders appear even LARGER and STRONGER
It is this combination of THREE that allows us to CARVE a STRONG looking figure for even those not naturally gifted with STRONG SHOULDERS
Welcome to AskOkey Muhammad 😁
PROFF
You didn’t address the basic question. How does width affect visual perception? You talked about effects of length and gorge height. But not the width
Good evening Abdullah. I believe I’ve previously address this issue in several videos in our IG archives
The width of the lapel should be AT, or just a bit over half way across the chest.
This yields the best proportions in my own experience.
Are you following us on Instagram? @askokeyig
PROFF
I have one question that’s intrigues me . How much of the square pocket should the lapel cover ? It’s any rule ? Obviously not cover all the pocket but maybe 3/4 it’s bad?
That’s a good question Nicolas. In my opinion, there is no rule per se. It all depends on the shape of the lapel. But the aim is to have a lapel not so large that it covers the pocket altogether. After all you want your pocket square showing a little bit.
Welcome to AskOkey. Are you following us on Instagram? @askokeyig
PROFF
@@AskOkeyInc thanks for the answer ! And of course I’m following you on Instagram
@@nicolasescobar398 Thank you Nicolas 🙏🏾
only this jacket doesn't go half way to the shoulder seam, it's probably closer to 80%. The jacket worn in this video also looks a fair bit too long even for British tailoring, it7s supposed to cover the seat, not extend half way to the knees. Gorgeous shirt collar, what shirt is it?
Thank you sir!
Jacket length is not just arbitrary. It has to do with the overall silhouette. Our own “AskOkey House Cut” have longer jackets than this.
Why? Because they are worn with FULL CUT TROUSERS. Covering your ass is just half the story. There’s also BALANCE & HARMONY with the trousers.
PROFF
@@AskOkeyInc Thank you. I know it's not arbitrary, I'm not disputing your expertise, I'm just not sure this silhouette is the best possible one, to my eye it makes you look shorter and while it might be OK on your 6 foot relatively athletic frame, such a long jacket probably wouldn't flatter a shorter, more rotund gentleman. There's a fashion towards shorter jackets these days but I'm not talking Thom Browne, just regular Italian length as opposed to a bit longer British style. Similar with the trousers, to my eye a break on such a wide cut makes the look appear a little dated. You seem to be going for a bit of a vintagey style but again, I'm not convinced it will work for the physique of the average man in his 40s or 50s these days.
@@AskOkeyInc I do like those trousers though!
@@rogerr.8507 Thank you Roger. Welcome to AskOkey.
Do you follow us on Instagram? @askokeyig
PROFF
Hello okey… I noticed you cut the tip of your measuring tape.. any reason for that?
No sir. Most likely an old measuring tape 😁.
Welcome to AskOkey! PROFF
Thank you for the tips. Am i trippin or one side of your coat is slightly longer, no?
You may have a point. I have a dropped left shoulder. This is an old jacket from my Neapolitan tailor. I believe he didn’t correct for my dropped shoulder hence the imbalance.
Have a look at our own “In House” more recent cuts at www.AskOkey.com/shop
Or Instagram @askokeyig
Thank you. PROFF
@@AskOkeyInc my bad! Jacket looks amazing nevertheless. Thanks for the good tips! Cant wait to apply them to my next bespoke suit!
@@AM-ss4uq Welcome sir! PROFF
😍😍😍😍
Thank you Amit! Keep on going 😁Lots of great content on here … PROFF
Should the width of a peak lapel of a single breasted jacket still be the same as a notch lapel? Or should it be a tad bit wider?
NO Jascha!
ALWAYS WIDER 💯
A peak lapel whether on SB or DB should be wider than a notch lapel
@@AskOkeyInc Would a width of a 4.5 - 4.75 inches be a good width then for a peak lapel SB?
@@jaschaprincipe4519 I’d say so .. 🔥
Can I know what is your height and weight ?
6’ 1” 88kg
imo you look way better in that Napolitan jacket than you do in your own more oversized garments
I mean, maybe it has a great personality?
Hi Hepp, can you elaborate? What are you referring to in your comment? re: Personality. The lapel size? It will guide me in answering your question. PROFF
@@AskOkeyInc he is comparing "...does size and shape matter?" with a fat chick or unsightly woman with a redeeming personality... So its a joke.
@@rogerr.8507 I’m just gonna take the 5th on that one Roger 😅
Welcome once again to AskOkey. Don’t forget to follow us on Instagram @askokeyig
PROFF
Vertically challenged haha I always like funny ppl that dnt realize it😂😂
To be honest... your lapel on your blazer is too big for you and the shoulder width is too wide to
Point well taken Juan. Lapels are on the larger side (Neapolitan) but not off. A matter of preference. Shoulders seem fine to me.
Welcome to AskOkey Sir!
PROFF
@@AskOkeyInc If you have wide shoulders, as you say you have nothing beats an unconstructed blazer so we really can see your masculine (sexy) contour. Your lapels covers 3/4 of your shoulder width and then they come very close to a caricature ;-). Just 1 cm is very much
@@JuanHugeJanus Noted Sir 😁