When you drill stainless you'll get rust... but its not what you think. After some time exposed to the elements you'll end up seeing some running rust coming from those holes you drilled. It isn't the stainless base material you drilled or even the bolts you installed, its tiny particles or iron that are deposited by the drill bit as it cuts the hole and the drill bit wears from the friction. Anytime you drill holes in stainless you should soak or spray the work piece with a mild acid. I use a mild phosphoric acid cleaner, but boric acid works well too (pool cleaner). Also, whatever the acid is is Barkeeper's Friend (I think its Boric) works. Best tip is to soak in hot water with the diluted acid, it will dissolve the microscopic iron flakes that will eventually turn into rust.
I always wondered if Id miss all the DIY once you finished Athena......now I know...😎Im not a DIY person.... hopeless actually.....but I just love to watch your handwork.........brong on the Next project...😀
This works if the boat is sitting on the hard with the waterline perfectly level. An easier way is to use a level to hold against the old waterline and a square block the exact size of the amount you want to raise the waterline. Slide the block over on the level and mark the top of it once the bubble is level. Move a few inches and repeat all the way around the boat. It doesn't matter if the boat is level fore/aft as long as the boat is not heeling to the side much.
Barkeepers' Friend contains oxalic acid, a great rust neutralizer and remover. Phosphoric acid, aka Naval Jelly is also in cocacola syrup, which the Navy used to use. Concentrated lemon juice, citric acid, is a more ecofriendly alternative. The process is called "passivating" stainless steel. When stainless rsils are bent, the mandrels are carbon steel, so bent tubing always rusts unless it was passivated. Using steel wool to polish stainless tubing also embeds microscopic flecks that will rust. Brass, copper, bronze wool, or Scotchbrite pads solve that.
I tried concentrated citric acid heated to 40C in an ultrasonic cleaning tank and my SS316 shackles which had minor rust stains came out looking like new-simply pristine, after just a few minutes. 1 year latter they seem to look far worse than the previous 10 years
Atticus did a cool deal where he mounted a winch on the bottom side of an under coushion cover. This provides easy storage upside-down in a cabinet and a handy support/bench when being put into service.
Just a quick thought for the fly-screen on the hatch: Given how light the screen looks it might be possible to use small magnets to hold it in place while still allowing easy removal. It would probably enough to hot-glue them in place and on the screen itself.
We went down a path of dinghy hoists. 1st it was block and tackle, then using the sheet winches, next was a manual winch the same as you installed. Finally we installed a 4WD winch. About $100 off ebay that we swapped out tne mild steel bolts with stainless and had the body powder coated. Bought 2 and we change them over every 4 or 5 years if any rust comes through. Electric Winch 12V Wireless 3000LBS / 1361KGS Synthetic Rope ATV 4WD BOAT
In the future, drilling your holes in steel or SS starting out with a smaller bit (like 1\8") for a pilot hole, at the lowest speed possible and at a constant speed, not burst of speed. Then once that hole is finished, start stepping up sizes in small size increments using the same method, while adding a bit of oil as you go. Slow, steady with some light pressure. Of course, using very high grade drill bits that are fresh and sharp is what you want to use. You'll find this method is the easiest way.
Hurrah the return of Athena DIY.👍 The story of the shy Panda marches inexorably forward.😉 Maybe get your friendly workshop to adapt the winch operating spindle so it has a hex head to allow a cordless drill with socket to operate it. 😀⛵️
In my earlier life when I was employed as a machinist, we used Palmolive Dish washing liquid when drilling stainless steel. I have since tried other brands of dish washing liquid but best results was with green Palmolive dwl.
Just a tip in Trinidad, if you have not yet got saildrive AF. Jotun has a distributor there and the saildrive AF is called Yachting Aqualine. Although for Miyashitct saildrive I prime extremely well with epoxy and use regular AF saving the Aqualine for spraying in the water intakes that I can’t prime properly.
Hi team, great video I was thinking maybe you could put a black fuel line on your u bolt it will help the winch from sliding around. Keep up the good work.
Madds, here is the easiest solution for rust areas on the exterior of your boat including the new winch ..after cleaning the rust away from all your steel, with Bar Keepers Friend, get some Orthophosphoric acid, "rust inhibitor" found in hardware stores as a prep before painting steel, and mix 1 cup with 2 tablespoons of liquid dish detergent, wipe this solution all over the metal, and after it dries, rinse off any drips...6 months to 1 uear and six months depending on weather encountered, free of annoying rust stains....easy to do and can be done in small areas at a time, and very cost effective
I thought that I had suggested using those gold coloured Step Drills for Stainless Steel drilling. I would try them and I think you will be surprised at how much better they are than conventional drills! - Mike .....>
Nice work as always Mads. You could make an adapter for your cordless drill so you can use it instead of the handle. Also I’m sure Ava can make a spiffy cover for the winch to keep it looking spiffy. Andy UK
I would have wanted to use butyl tape on the hatch. I used it in both of my deck hatches with no problems after 6 years. I think that life caulk stuff is silicone-based and I avoid silicone sealants on everything except for fish tanks and plastic hatches (both of which I avoid on a boat anyhow.) That boat trailer hitch looks like a nice idea. We have wire halyards with really nice Lewmar wire winches which were the final generation of wire winches developed before folks quit using wire halyards. They work really well for halyards but aren't really the greatest for "controlled release" when dropping them. It doesn't matter so much for dropping a sail but a heavy dink might be another matter. The boat winch has a good controlled descent and I think it will work great with dyneema although you will need to be sure to keep decent tension on the drum or when the load hits the last few wraps may dig into the spool and bind. This is less of a problem with wire rope but our wire halyard winches have a 2-stage drum design to move the wire to another section for the last couple of wraps to avoid this phenomenon. As for dinghy theft -once you get to the USA you can pretty much forget about that as an issue -at least at the boat. Even at dinghy docks here the theft problem is almost nil during daylight hours. Lots of cruisers on the East Coast don't ever lock.up their dinks unless they are going to leave them overnight or really late like past bar time. I've been locking ours up lately only because there are sometimes clueless new cruisers who think it is Okay to move someone else's dink so they can get a better spot (yours) This actually happened to us the other day in Fernandina Beach Florida. These folks wanted a cleat all to themselves so they could put their HUGE bicycle-style U-lock and short fat cable through this cleat we were on and moved us to "share" with another dink. They tied a ridiculous "cleat" hitch on our painter (just a series of figure eights with no locking reverse loop) and actually ripped one of the bow eyes off of the inflatable next to us pushing it over enough so they could jam in. Luckily their painter was connected to two...but if they had a longer painter as long as their dink that wouldn't have happened either. So theft isn't an issue in the USA but clueless newbie cruisers will always be around -especially in Florida. Probably first-timers on their maiden cruise south...
An adapter for your cordless drill will make that winch much more pleasant to live with. You do have a nice, powerful cordless drill, right? Also, I bet you guys constantly quote Chief Brody with, "You're gonna need a bigger boat." I for one cannot wait to see it.
Great video as usual but I'm missing Ava's tours! As for the sealant, I love 4200; it's tenacious but not too hard to pry up and it doesn't smell. I am not a fan LifeCaulk.
At the beginning of the video Mads always opens with "a somewhat extensive refit." It always makes me laugh. Somewhat extensive? More like rebuilding the entire boat back to a standard well above when she was new. Keep up the great work.
Mads... I believe lewmar does have a hatch full size templet pdf for their hatches. At least they do for theit ports. I downloaded it and had it printed out in full size at a print shop to make a router template. This is not helpful now but in the future perhaps it might be of assistance.
Digging the DIY! I lived and worked in Trinidad for a time albeit the other end of the island (San Fernando). It did seem to rain everyday but normally not for too long. I hope you both enjoy your stay.
Im sure you have figured it out so far but watch out for that Handel lowing they can get some wacking force behind them when they get going. So happy you both are sailing but do miss all the diy vids. Hopefully will get to meet you out there on my boat one day.
Try using a drill and replacement the handle for the winch or they make small electric winches to pull your boat on to the trailer. Good sailing. Tom Gruenwald-Toledo ,Ohio
Suggest you use Prop Speed on the saildrive as well as the prop. Works a treat. Very effective against growth and stays put which is more than can be said for Trilux which is very soft and ablates away in no time.
Mads- Lifecalk that was applied 40 years ago is often still good. And 5200 is not "forever", it just has to be mechanically chipped or ground out. It does set up rock hard within a week.
A bit of heat works wonders. 3M also sells a solvent that works pretty well but it is a little pricey -probably because it works fast and boatyards want stuff done fast.
Hey Mads, there's a way you can get a straight water line without a laser. There's a little tool you can make with a level, piece of plywood, and 2 dowels. It's a great tool for even the stern where you usually have a deep angle. If you got any questions, gimme a call if you still have my card. Danny with Triton Yachts
Striking a new waterline/boot top/boot stripe can be done by marking the desired number of inches/cm's above the existing line in 3-4 positions 2-3 feet apart amidships near the center point bow to stern where the topsides are most vertical. Then with a long straight batten or 8' piece of lattice, stick several pieces of duct tape to the lattice. Hold the lattice against the marks maintaining a vertical orientation at all times and tape to the hull only on the top of the lattice. Apply pressure to the lattice to conform it to the curves of the hull taping as you go. Using the lattice as your straightedge, draw a pencil line onto the hull. Repeat the process overlapping the lattice 2' or so onto the previously drawn pencil line. Proceed fore and aft to extend the pencil line to the bow and stern extremes. Remember to keep the lattice in vertical orientation. This ensures the flare of the waterline does not droop under the counter/transom area as the hull shape changes from vertical to horizontal. Boat need not be level nor is a laser level or water tube level system required.
Mads, I am concerned that the weakest point in your new dinghy lift system is the ratchet on the trailer winch. I sure it is fine while lifting and lowering but while underway you might consider a safety line to take load off the ratchet.
Hi Mads. Something I’ve done with that type of wench in the past is rig a bit that I attached to my electric impact driver. I was able to raise and lower a lot faster.
Awesome video Mads. Love the idea of your dingy winch. Instead of cutting the handle down however, could you make an attachment that would allow you to attach a cordless drill? Most drills today are pretty beefy and have multiple speeds. Might make life easier. Just thought. Keep up the great work. Looking forward to the next one.
I did consider that, but the angle is annoying, and we would still need to add a clutch or something to secure the arch when the line is not on the electric winch :)
Source some large computer fans to exhaust air through your new hatch. They are quiet and energy efficient. Used computer stores in the US sell them cheap
If only you had a stainless, electric winch on board. You could have routed the line to such a winch for the 1 minute you need it every day. Also, lowering the dinghy would be less cumbersome. On the positive side, the trailer thingy provides a place to store the line.
Hey Mads, Great video as always. Did you consider alternative orientations for the head hatch? I wonder why you didn't have it opening to aft to reduce the amount of water ingress if left open at sea?
Thanks! :) There were two reasons I mounted the hatch this way, but the main reason is that the hatch requires an almost flat surface for mounting it. The cabintop has a fair bit of curve to it . If I turned the hatch the other way around, I would have a gap at the two ends (the hatch spans a bigger area that way around).
I'm pretty sure you did already but in case you didn't; do you have sufficient airflow between the head and cabin? A small slit or a couple of holes in the door would fix this. Can't move air from a closed compartement. Varma hälsningar från Sverige
304 will have a reaction with 36 if they are in direct contact with one another due to the carbon content difference, so placing a membrane between the point of context will add a bit of protection against rust forming on the 304 metal.
The only difference between 304 and 316 is that 316 has 2% molybdeen. They both suffer of fly rust. The on that has the smoothed surface will be less affected with fly rust and stays nicer
I’ve been dying to hear the Fischer Panda saga. They are known for terrible customer service. I have a friend who discarded his and bought another generator after a miserable experience with them.
Mads, Mads, Mads Dude START WEARING A MASK when you work with Cabosil(glass particles to thicken epoxy)will kill you. Those glass particles are so fine that they are airborne. Breathing this dangerous stuff is lethal. Ask the folks who work in the boatyard. OR, do some research. You are very good at it. We want you 2 around for many years to come.
Hey, is it possible to invert the rolling direction of the dingy winch, from an angle and force side it is beneficial to have it tow close to the mounting plate.
Why, oh why would you install a hatch that doesn't open to the prevailing wind? You still have a cold weather mind set. In the tropics all hatches should open to the front of the boat for wind flow.
I hadn't realised how much I've missed these boat DIY type videos😄
I'm glad to hear it :D
Sane!
Same here.
Loved this , it’s my ASMR a bit like the bbc shipping forecast
When you drill stainless you'll get rust... but its not what you think. After some time exposed to the elements you'll end up seeing some running rust coming from those holes you drilled. It isn't the stainless base material you drilled or even the bolts you installed, its tiny particles or iron that are deposited by the drill bit as it cuts the hole and the drill bit wears from the friction. Anytime you drill holes in stainless you should soak or spray the work piece with a mild acid. I use a mild phosphoric acid cleaner, but boric acid works well too (pool cleaner). Also, whatever the acid is is Barkeeper's Friend (I think its Boric) works. Best tip is to soak in hot water with the diluted acid, it will dissolve the microscopic iron flakes that will eventually turn into rust.
Coca cola has a good wack of phosphoric acid in it too.
How useful! Like Mads I avoid drilling stainless. When feasible it's better to have either your own bench press or find someone willing who does.
Barkeeper’s Friend is oxalic acid.
I always wondered if Id miss all the DIY once you finished Athena......now I know...😎Im not a DIY person.... hopeless actually.....but I just love to watch your handwork.........brong on the Next project...😀
"This is gonna suck," separating the women from the girls and the men from the boys. ❤ you
+1 for cobalt bits, lots of oil and patience!
Sail Life is always best viewed when there is a DiY project to be done.
This sounds like a great opportunity to learn a new skill of marking a waterline using transparent tubing filled and colored water.
This works if the boat is sitting on the hard with the waterline perfectly level. An easier way is to use a level to hold against the old waterline and a square block the exact size of the amount you want to raise the waterline. Slide the block over on the level and mark the top of it once the bubble is level. Move a few inches and repeat all the way around the boat. It doesn't matter if the boat is level fore/aft as long as the boat is not heeling to the side much.
Yes some of us were doing it that way in the 1960,s , before lasers were even thought off , and may be the guys who built the Pyramids .🤔
@@allsearpw3829 and before clear plastic tubing.was invented.
You need to get yourself a set of Cobalt drill bits! They should help lessen your stainless pains
Barkeepers' Friend contains oxalic acid, a great rust neutralizer and remover. Phosphoric acid, aka Naval Jelly is also in cocacola syrup, which the Navy used to use. Concentrated lemon juice, citric acid, is a more ecofriendly alternative.
The process is called "passivating" stainless steel. When stainless rsils are bent, the mandrels are carbon steel, so bent tubing always rusts unless it was passivated. Using steel wool to polish stainless tubing also embeds microscopic flecks that will rust. Brass, copper, bronze wool, or Scotchbrite pads solve that.
I tried concentrated citric acid heated to 40C in an ultrasonic cleaning tank and my SS316 shackles which had minor rust stains came out looking like new-simply pristine, after just a few minutes. 1 year latter they seem to look far worse than the previous 10 years
Mads you really need a small vice on the boat. Something you can mount and remove easy and stow away when not in use
Atticus did a cool deal where he mounted a winch on the bottom side of an under coushion cover. This provides easy storage upside-down in a cabinet and a handy support/bench when being put into service.
Just a quick thought for the fly-screen on the hatch: Given how light the screen looks it might be possible to use small magnets to hold it in place while still allowing easy removal. It would probably enough to hot-glue them in place and on the screen itself.
I think it is the explanation with the DIY that i find interesting.
We went down a path of dinghy hoists. 1st it was block and tackle, then using the sheet winches, next was a manual winch the same as you installed. Finally we installed a 4WD winch. About $100 off ebay that we swapped out tne mild steel bolts with stainless and had the body powder coated. Bought 2 and we change them over every 4 or 5 years if any rust comes through. Electric Winch 12V Wireless 3000LBS / 1361KGS Synthetic Rope ATV 4WD BOAT
Your boat is becoming perfect for a weekend retirement home. Target rich old couples when you sell it!
In the future, drilling your holes in steel or SS starting out with a smaller bit (like 1\8") for a pilot hole, at the lowest speed possible and at a constant speed, not burst of speed. Then once that hole is finished, start stepping up sizes in small size increments using the same method, while adding a bit of oil as you go. Slow, steady with some light pressure. Of course, using very high grade drill bits that are fresh and sharp is what you want to use. You'll find this method is the easiest way.
Hurrah the return of Athena DIY.👍
The story of the shy Panda marches inexorably forward.😉
Maybe get your friendly workshop to adapt the winch operating spindle so it has a hex head to allow a cordless drill with socket to operate it.
😀⛵️
If you do it right, you could use a deep socket with the drill, AND keep the handle crank as a backup.
In my earlier life when I was employed as a machinist, we used Palmolive Dish washing liquid when drilling stainless steel. I have since tried other brands of dish washing liquid but best results was with green Palmolive dwl.
Love the agile board... Live and die by them at work
Stay safe and we'll see you next week.
Just a tip in Trinidad, if you have not yet got saildrive AF. Jotun has a distributor there and the saildrive AF is called Yachting Aqualine. Although for Miyashitct saildrive I prime extremely well with epoxy and use regular AF saving the Aqualine for spraying in the water intakes that I can’t prime properly.
Hi team, great video I was thinking maybe you could put a black fuel line on your u bolt it will help the winch from sliding around. Keep up the good work.
Madds, here is the easiest solution for rust areas on the exterior of your boat including the new winch
..after cleaning the rust away from all your steel, with Bar Keepers Friend, get some Orthophosphoric acid, "rust inhibitor" found in hardware stores as a prep before painting steel, and mix 1 cup with 2 tablespoons of liquid dish detergent, wipe this solution all over the metal, and after it dries, rinse off any drips...6 months to 1 uear and six months depending on weather encountered, free of annoying rust stains....easy to do and can be done in small areas at a time, and very cost effective
I thought that I had suggested using those gold coloured Step Drills for Stainless Steel drilling. I would try them and I think you will be surprised at how much better they are than conventional drills! - Mike .....>
“Man Glitter” is probably a good idea for a t shirt
Use a battery drill on the winch. Will be a lot quicker.
I think I smell a vacuum infused carbon fiber bug screen video coming. Gotta have the most spiffy bug screen!
Nice work as always Mads. You could make an adapter for your cordless drill so you can use it instead of the handle. Also I’m sure Ava can make a spiffy cover for the winch to keep it looking spiffy. Andy UK
Plus one.
Mass, use shark hide on your new trailer wench. It will protect the metal for up to a year. It’s great for all your bright work as well.
I see you have Wera tools. So amazing! They are the best. Maybe do a little feature on why you chose them.
I would have wanted to use butyl tape on the hatch. I used it in both of my deck hatches with no problems after 6 years. I think that life caulk stuff is silicone-based and I avoid silicone sealants on everything except for fish tanks and plastic hatches (both of which I avoid on a boat anyhow.)
That boat trailer hitch looks like a nice idea. We have wire halyards with really nice Lewmar wire winches which were the final generation of wire winches developed before folks quit using wire halyards. They work really well for halyards but aren't really the greatest for "controlled release" when dropping them. It doesn't matter so much for dropping a sail but a heavy dink might be another matter. The boat winch has a good controlled descent and I think it will work great with dyneema although you will need to be sure to keep decent tension on the drum or when the load hits the last few wraps may dig into the spool and bind. This is less of a problem with wire rope but our wire halyard winches have a 2-stage drum design to move the wire to another section for the last couple of wraps to avoid this phenomenon.
As for dinghy theft -once you get to the USA you can pretty much forget about that as an issue -at least at the boat. Even at dinghy docks here the theft problem is almost nil during daylight hours. Lots of cruisers on the East Coast don't ever lock.up their dinks unless they are going to leave them overnight or really late like past bar time.
I've been locking ours up lately only because there are sometimes clueless new cruisers who think it is Okay to move someone else's dink so they can get a better spot (yours) This actually happened to us the other day in Fernandina Beach Florida. These folks wanted a cleat all to themselves so they could put their HUGE bicycle-style U-lock and short fat cable through this cleat we were on and moved us to "share" with another dink. They tied a ridiculous "cleat" hitch on our painter (just a series of figure eights with no locking reverse loop) and actually ripped one of the bow eyes off of the inflatable next to us pushing it over enough so they could jam in. Luckily their painter was connected to two...but if they had a longer painter as long as their dink that wouldn't have happened either.
So theft isn't an issue in the USA but clueless newbie cruisers will always be around -especially in Florida. Probably first-timers on their maiden cruise south...
An adapter for your cordless drill will make that winch much more pleasant to live with. You do have a nice, powerful cordless drill, right?
Also, I bet you guys constantly quote Chief Brody with, "You're gonna need a bigger boat." I for one cannot wait to see it.
Get cobalt drills through stainless like a knife through butter👍
13:53 "Freedom Unit" LOL! 🤣
Great video as usual but I'm missing Ava's tours! As for the sealant, I love 4200; it's tenacious but not too hard to pry up and it doesn't smell. I am not a fan LifeCaulk.
At the beginning of the video Mads always opens with "a somewhat extensive refit." It always makes me laugh. Somewhat extensive? More like rebuilding the entire boat back to a standard well above when she was new. Keep up the great work.
Always up for some oglorious something. Cannot believe there are not more subscribers. Lets rock watcher's. You go Mads.
“Freedom unit” yes!
DIY! My favorite.
Yay :D
Mads... I believe lewmar does have a hatch full size templet pdf for their hatches. At least they do for theit ports. I downloaded it and had it printed out in full size at a print shop to make a router template. This is not helpful now but in the future perhaps it might be of assistance.
I use Milwaukee Red Helix Cobalt Drill Bits and a cordless drill for better rev control. low rpm is the key.
Maybe the 'fly screen thing' needs some oohhh glorious fiberglassing to make it less wobly Mads😅😊 Thanks for nice DIY vlog🎉❤
What you need is a center drill. It will make life so much easier drilling stainless or any other metallic surface. Boat looks nice 👍.
To have about the same amount of likes as you do views right now it’s pretty impressive. Keep up the good work!
New this channel I’ve been watching a lot of videos. These guys ever actually sell the boat.
Digging the DIY!
I lived and worked in Trinidad for a time albeit the other end of the island (San Fernando). It did seem to rain everyday but normally not for too long. I hope you both enjoy your stay.
The second week in a row with Finnish products showcased. Torille!
the u-bolts may benefit from a little rubber piece to improve the gripping force on the stainless pole, just an idle thought.
I had the same idea but I didn't have any rubber like material on the boat :)
Any leftover heatshrink tubing?
Im sure you have figured it out so far but watch out for that Handel lowing they can get some wacking force behind them when they get going. So happy you both are sailing but do miss all the diy vids. Hopefully will get to meet you out there on my boat one day.
Good one Mads!
Try using a drill and replacement the handle for the winch or they make small electric winches to pull your boat on to the trailer. Good sailing. Tom Gruenwald-Toledo ,Ohio
Best video in a long time, Mads! Loving the DIY.
Suggest you use Prop Speed on the saildrive as well as the prop. Works a treat. Very effective against growth and stays put which is more than can be said for Trilux which is very soft and ablates away in no time.
Mads-
Lifecalk that was applied 40 years ago is often still good. And 5200 is not "forever", it just has to be mechanically chipped or ground out. It does set up rock hard within a week.
A bit of heat works wonders. 3M also sells a solvent that works pretty well but it is a little pricey -probably because it works fast and boatyards want stuff done fast.
Hey Mads, there's a way you can get a straight water line without a laser. There's a little tool you can make with a level, piece of plywood, and 2 dowels. It's a great tool for even the stern where you usually have a deep angle. If you got any questions, gimme a call if you still have my card. Danny with Triton Yachts
Or a piece of tube with coloured water in it
Striking a new waterline/boot top/boot stripe can be done by marking the desired number of inches/cm's above the existing line in 3-4 positions 2-3 feet apart amidships near the center point bow to stern where the topsides are most vertical. Then with a long straight batten or 8' piece of lattice, stick several pieces of duct tape to the lattice. Hold the lattice against the marks maintaining a vertical orientation at all times and tape to the hull only on the top of the lattice. Apply pressure to the lattice to conform it to the curves of the hull taping as you go. Using the lattice as your straightedge, draw a pencil line onto the hull. Repeat the process overlapping the lattice 2' or so onto the previously drawn pencil line. Proceed fore and aft to extend the pencil line to the bow and stern extremes. Remember to keep the lattice in vertical orientation. This ensures the flare of the waterline does not droop under the counter/transom area as the hull shape changes from vertical to horizontal. Boat need not be level nor is a laser level or water tube level system required.
Mads, I am concerned that the weakest point in your new dinghy lift system is the ratchet on the trailer winch. I sure it is fine while lifting and lowering but while underway you might consider a safety line to take load off the ratchet.
Hi Mads. Something I’ve done with that type of wench in the past is rig a bit that I attached to my electric impact driver. I was able to raise and lower a lot faster.
Awesome video Mads. Love the idea of your dingy winch. Instead of cutting the handle down however, could you make an attachment that would allow you to attach a cordless drill? Most drills today are pretty beefy and have multiple speeds. Might make life easier. Just thought. Keep up the great work. Looking forward to the next one.
Don't forget to enjoy it
Hi great work Mads , keep them coming .❤👍
Nice. I have that same Wera screwdriver you used on the hatch, but changed a couple of the bits for a special purpose.
Hello, why dont you use your electric winch to raise the dingy.....just have some blocks in line with the winch and that's all you need....cheers...
I did consider that, but the angle is annoying, and we would still need to add a clutch or something to secure the arch when the line is not on the electric winch :)
Yes, that is what I do, I have a clutch once the dingy is up…easy and the electric which does all the work. 👍🏻
Mads, I hate to get nit picky but you guys need a new into! That’s really outdated. Love your channel though, you’re a fantastic craftsman.
That was an oh glorious video
Hi Mass
I have found using a cutting, drilling compound when working with stainless far more effective than 3in 1 oil
Three words … spare winch crank.
For when the new one gets wet and out of reach.
A visegrip would work and double as a great tool onboard.
Dear Madds, when drilling harder metals use a carbide masonry drill bit it will cut like going through butter.
Source some large computer fans to exhaust air through your new hatch. They are quiet and energy efficient. Used computer stores in the US sell them cheap
If only you had a stainless, electric winch on board. You could have routed the line to such a winch for the 1 minute you need it every day. Also, lowering the dinghy would be less cumbersome. On the positive side, the trailer thingy provides a place to store the line.
Great video
Gotta wonder if your home-made diesel genset from the old big workshop might have been a better option than the fisher-price toy…
Instead of a manual crank, try getting a socket and an adapter for your cordless drill, and you can crank the dinghy arch up and down with the drill.
New drinking game, every time he says Hatch, take a shot!
Hey Mads, Great video as always. Did you consider alternative orientations for the head hatch? I wonder why you didn't have it opening to aft to reduce the amount of water ingress if left open at sea?
Thanks! :) There were two reasons I mounted the hatch this way, but the main reason is that the hatch requires an almost flat surface for mounting it. The cabintop has a fair bit of curve to it . If I turned the hatch the other way around, I would have a gap at the two ends (the hatch spans a bigger area that way around).
Mads - nu må du snart opdatere den indledning 🙂
Jo, den börjar bli lite lätt gammal nu :P
I'm pretty sure you did already but in case you didn't; do you have sufficient airflow between the head and cabin? A small slit or a couple of holes in the door would fix this. Can't move air from a closed compartement.
Varma hälsningar från Sverige
304 will have a reaction with 36 if they are in direct contact with one another due to the carbon content difference, so placing a membrane between the point of context will add a bit of protection against rust forming on the 304 metal.
The only difference between 304 and 316 is that 316 has 2% molybdeen. They both suffer of fly rust. The on that has the smoothed surface will be less affected with fly rust and stays nicer
4:07 [Thought bubble] I wonder if the zone above the head counts as both Area #1 and Area #2
I’ve been dying to hear the Fischer Panda saga. They are known for terrible customer service. I have a friend who discarded his and bought another generator after a miserable experience with them.
You should use magnets for ne net in the hatch. It looks very light weight. So 4 magnets should do the trick.
Velcro tabs
@@mr.e7022 Velcro magnets
Hi Team, with your water line could you just use 2 inch masking tape two laps around will give you a perfect water line.
The stainless 304 is stamped. Being 316 you would probably have to weld it.
Drilling stainless without lube is never going to end well. At a pinch, you can use water to keep the drill bit cool as you go.
You probably know but when drilling stainless you need a cobalt drill. Or a carbide center drill in the machining section of the hardware store.
Mads, Mads, Mads Dude START WEARING A MASK when you work with Cabosil(glass particles to thicken epoxy)will kill you. Those glass particles are so fine that they are airborne. Breathing this dangerous stuff is lethal. Ask the folks who work in the boatyard. OR, do some research. You are very good at it. We want you 2 around for many years to come.
Hi Mads Love you videos.
Any chance that you could use your electric winch to raise and lower the dingy.
Mvh Christian Hvalpsund
freedom units! LOL
WD40 and 3&1 oils are not cutting oils!! yes it does make a difference.
Hey, is it possible to invert the rolling direction of the dingy winch, from an angle and force side it is beneficial to have it tow close to the mounting plate.
Would wiping the with some Fluidfilm lanolin corrosion inhibitor be a good approach? Sure, it smells awful, but it’s quick and easy to!
I use a drill attachment to my hand crank might work for you
You don’t have a miniature Ava to include in videos while she’s away?
I can’t believe she didn’t think of that.
Now that’s an interesting crochet…:)
See you👍🏼🇩🇰
Ozwinch is 316
Why, oh why would you install a hatch that doesn't open to the prevailing wind? You still have a cold weather mind set. In the tropics all hatches should open to the front of the boat for wind flow.
Mads the guru.
Buy yourself some cobalt drills.
Where's Julian. You helped him. LOL
Ask around? Don't you think someone has a bit of your antifouling lying around in their gallon bucket?
Be careful with the winch handle, at the height you mounted it. If it gets away from you, it could be a jaw breaker.