Chevrolet Traverse "Service Stabilitrak" Problem DTC C0161-00 Brake Position Sensor
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- čas přidán 16. 07. 2022
- Is your Chevrolet telling you to service your Stabilitrak? Is your transmission shifting erratically when you hit a certain speed? There are many possible causes. I'll show you my issue and what I did to fix it. I hope this helps you.
- Auta a dopravní prostředky
2 Years ago i paid a dealership 600 dollars to replace the brake pedal and sensor. It just started doing it again. This video just saved me lots of money. The spring length I used after cutting it down was a little less then 1 1/2 inches not measuring the hooks. Cost me $2.59 and some time.
Very glad to hear this. All the best!
Thank you, this worked on our 2016 Chevy Traverse. Found other videos to clean out the throttle body and PCV valve and worked for a bit but then the issue continued. I made a stop at the nearest gas station turned the car off for about 10mins then the TC light turned off. I think this reset the computer. Then drove with my left foot pulling under the brake pedal as a test to mimic a spring pulling it up. The light never came back on, so next step was Home Depot to buy the “Extension Springs”. They come in a 4 pack for like $5 bucks. Good luck, and thanks again!
Is it possible you could link the springs you bought?
This totally solved my problem! I am about a year out from this fix and still working for me! Thanks so much!!!
You're welcome!
@@pattywaktdiy4175 I have a 2016; Chevy Traverse Lt AWD and my traction control and stability lights are on the dashboard. I have changed wheel bearing Hub on right side and wheel speed sensor no luck at all still traction control and stability lights are still on the dashboard.
Thank you Sir!! You are a genius!! May God Bless you and keep you safe always!!
I must admit I'm pretty impressed sir by your level of ingenuity here in this application. I take it that you are not a Professional necessarily, as your usage of referring to "Forums" possibly could be an indication to this assumption on my part, and nor am I anything exceptional at writing skills either. However, and I don't mean to sound boastful, but I am ASE certified in almost all Automotive systems and State certified in all systems as well as having an actual degree in the field. I believe no idea is bad if it can produce the same results and in addition I'd say that this is one of my strongest areas separate aside from both my Technical Training and experience in both multiple Dealership shop settings as well as in more than one independent shop for a total of 20 yrs. as well as Special Training at the local Honda Regional Facility in Marysville, Ohio as well as the Toyota facility in Cincinnati, Ohio. Yet I am not ashamed to admit that I too use public forums for information as well as just watching all levels of fixing things on CZcams etc. In fact, this is why i decided to comment because no one is too good to learn from anyone else and we all can help each other, and if everyone thought like this maybe the world would be a better place, not to sound like a cliche, but I'd say that's close accurate in my opinion. Anyways I too realized that there was some play involved in the pedal action, on my own family owned 2014 Acadia, which I believe may be wear in the booster needing adjustment or wear/play in the white bushing you see there at the first pivot point of the brake pedal which will set the C0161-00, whether due to a faulty sensor or extra slack from overall wear, when a sensor may still be ok, but just need to be "zeroed" out to prevent the C0161-00 code from being set. At any rate that's most likely why recalibrating the sensor, after sensor replacement or when like I said the sensor is not bad yet but still sets the code due to excessive slack in the pedal because of play inducing the condition and just simply needs a "relearn," which BTW is the GM/recommended technician procedure normally performed when replacing the BPP sensor, otherwise you may get a new code, the P057C Brake Pedal Position Sensor Circuit Low Voltage, upon replacement without doing a Calibration/Relearn. Finally I'd like to say I appreciate your little trick with the spring; this is basically the jerry rigged equivalent to the Scan tool procedure because like you stated this code is from the EBCM/BCM telling the ECM that the brake is "active" for so much time and at a set criteria (speed, time, number of drive cycles, turn etc. or whatever the enabling criteria to set the initial Chassis code might be) when in fact it should be in the "inactive" state during this time.
So naturally I liked and subscribed to you channel as Ill be on the lookout for any more of your practical and id say still safe simple solutions to an otherwise more costly problem.
THANKS!!!
Mark
Thanks for the comment. You are correct, I am not a pro. I started turning wrenches around age 12 with old motorcycles and go karts. Been tinkering ever since. Ive never taken a vehicle to a mechanic. Always able to trouble shoot and figure it out. I’ve found the world is not as complicated as some allow it to seem. When something breaks I simply try to use my imagination to come up with how I think the widget is designed and trial and error fixes off of that. I’m glad to see this video is helping some people. This one frustrates me to the core.
what kinda scan tool do you have mine is a cheap Fox well 301 scan tool doesn't show any codes at all
@@dancurrier6421 I use the ZR13 sold at harbor Freight. As code readers go, it's decent without breaking the bank.
I must say after multiple aggravating conversations with Firestone. This one that guy that his sister. The spring is such a smart idea and did the job lost of money lost over a simple $6 home depot fix and some brain power !!
Thanks for video, my wife traverse had same issues, replace cost was $250.00 at dealer, Changing all that other parts I have seen on CZcams did not work in her case..
Bummer! Best of luck. It's only a matter of time before something else breaks on these piles of GM crap.
THANK YOU. FIXED!!!!
Happy to hear it! It’s a special feeling when one DIYs and saves $1,500. It’s empowering! All the best.
Buddy it would take you an hour, and half to watch 60 minutes. So did it work? In simple answer! Lol. You get the MacGyver Award Boss if it did. Bless you.
Yes
Hello My car does the same thing, the traction light comes on and I change the bearing because my wife feasted on it and also the arrow but I don't know why that traction sensor is inserted I'm going to check the brake pedal I don't know if it has play thanks for the tips
Great vid. I am having the same problem. New brake pedal switch was installed. Still facing the issue. My brake pedal has a lot of ‘slop’ in it. Did you have to take the brake pedal switch off to get the closed end of the spring on? Also do you have an exact length for the spring you used?
Yes, had to take the brake switch off to install the spring. It’s a 9/32 socket. Pretty easy to remove. Spring I used was an Everbuilt spring from Home Depot. 65mm in overall length. I also suggest filing a small groove on the pedal to keep the spring in place so it can’t slide back and forth and potentially interfere with the brake position switch . I used a Dremel. Again, a very small groove will do. Good luck.
You Ask!!! 🤣
I found a slightly low air PSI in a tire solved the traction control problem.
I got the same code. Did your trick solve the problem. And, my brake has a lot of free play.
Yes, absolutely no recurrences since I did this! It’s been like 3 months now.
Do you know the diameter of the spring you used? Does it seem to add much extra resistance when applying the brakes?
I don’t have the measurement off hand but it’s about 10mm in diameter. No, you can’t feel a difference pushing the brake pedal. It doesn’t take much force to pull that pedal back upward to its stopping position.
I went to a local repair shop put his $10,000 dollar snap on scan tool on my car no codes like that. i had service traction control and stability,and abs on my dashboard. It came up with 2 different codes i don't remember what it was but he cleared all the codes but came back on 30 minutes driving back home. So I decided to go ahead and replace the left side wheel speed sensor what a pain trying to get the old one out trying to carefully get it out it broke of i had no choice. I had to pull everything off the left side wheel bearing Hub was stuck on so bad took for ever after spraying it with PB blaster letting it sit and using a big hammer it finally fell off it was so rusty like no grease at all i ended up drilling out the old wheel speed sensor cleaned it up sprayed the hole. Used a small wire brush to clean inside the hole where the CV Shaft is put the grease down on the CV Shaft and the wheel bearing Hub. Put everything back together and still lights are on for ABS and service traction control and stability lights are on the dashboard any help would be appreciated ty
Dan this sounds like the pinnacle of frustrating for you! If it’s not wheel speed sensors it could be the ABS module (where all of your steel brake lines lead to from the Master Cylinder. Check your cable connection to the ABS module.
Aside from that, you could have a loose or breaking wire to the ECM (Engine Control Module) that is attached to the back of the radiator. Check the connection there.
See if any of the codes that show up are related to the ABS module. Those are my best guesses.
Is it still working? No issues since?
Hey I replaced switch my light is still on! I also cleaned the throttle body. May I ask what did u attach the top 2 I can’t see tht part?
Sorry I don’t understand your question. What did I attach the top of the spring to?
@@pattywaktdiy4175 yes I’m sorry thts what I’m asking.
@@MsTiff-zh3ov there’s a factory hole right in the center of the brake pedal bar. If you pause the video at just the right moment you can see it. Pause video at about 10:37
@@pattywaktdiy4175 Thnk you so much! Going out of town tomorrow gonna try this… I hve done everything this stupid light is still on!
@@MsTiff-zh3ov it is working for you, if so, ill try it.
Yes
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I'd have to say No, because although they share common circuit routing, mechanically they are not linked and produce a separate measurement sent to the EBCM/BCM/ECM and only ECM logic for the throttle position.
How did you get the bottom panel off so you could get to the pedals and install the spring?
Not sure which panel you are referring to…there isn’t one. I did all of this with my knees on the concrete and leaning under the dash to see what I was doing. If there’s a panel in the way you must be working on a different year I am not familiar with.
@@pattywaktdiy4175 I have a 2015 traverse and it has a panel that attaches to the bottom of the steering column panel and runs horizontally towards the engine block. It only has a little area cut out for the brake and gas pedals to extend down towards the floorboard.
I also have a 2015 their's just 3 plastic quick snaps you can use a Phillipsps screw driver to pri them up@MarkFlinders-tp1yo
Any updates? Has it continued to work for you and what did you do to make a permanent fix?
Yes, haven’t had any problems since. I haven’t made any changes since this video. I just left the spring there and it works great.
@@pattywaktdiy4175you're actually the 2nd person I've seen now place a spring there on the brake pedal to fix this problem yet it seems like hundreds maybe even thousands of traverse owners still struggle with these damn stabilitrak issues good job man thanks for doing your part & posting the vid this knowledge needs to be more widespread hell u would think GM would've issued a recall even by now these damn traverse's been acting up like this since @ least 2009 🤷♂️
If this works I owe you a beer. Just went outside to check my pedal it's got the same play. This truck has been a nightmare, it's actually the second motor after over heating from this issue. Mechanic could NOT find the issue. If it's a 2.00 $ spring I'm going to be a happy camper
Tried this didn't work
All cars brake pedals have free travel,,if your brake light stays on you have a faulty switch, replace the switch, current bleed over in the brake switch will cause stabilatrac to function when it has not been engaged,,, also, with the amount of mileage on the car it's possible that the pads are worn causing the brakes to try to lock up, a dirty inside master cylinder will make the car fill jerky,, good luck
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