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I must have won the lottery with my 7 PRC patriot. It was the first 7 PRC that my FFL found in stick last November. I have heard horrible things about them, but mine shoots and has a decent trigger.
That makes two lucky guys. With one caveat. I know from my Mossberg Patriot .308 W that the synthetic stock has a design problem. The rifle is good but they refuse to fix the stock. The mag well is used as a shim. There is no bedding. And the rear action screw guide has a gap, from the molding process. You can never torque the back end down properly and you will crack the stock. This allows the action to move with the front action screw as a pivot or fulcrum. So, When I recently got my Patriot Predator 7 PRC, the first thing I did before firing it was put it in an Oryx chassis. All aluminum, the whole frame is metal bedding and I torque down to 60 ft-lbs and it does not move. The only thing I have to work on is the recoil management. The pad on the Oryx is unforgiving and the 7 PRC kicks a bit like a magnum. However, I had some shots, once I got sighted in, that were less than 1 inch at 100 yards. No official groups yet, I will get to that. If it went as wide as 1 MOA (1.047 inches, ) I will be happy for my hunting. There seems to be a desire to hate Mossberg, especially since the videos from Backfire. Even after they received a replacement rifle that did considerably better. I have even have emailed Mossberg about the stock issue. So, I just assume that if I buy a Mossberg rifle in the Patriot or Predator line, I will be putting it in a different stock or chassis to address the bedding needs. Edited to add: from the factory, the trigger is 2 pounds 2 ounces. Just fine for me. I have to rifles with lighter triggers, both of those are Mossbergs. They are less than 2 lbs from the factory, I have never adjusted the triggers.
@@ronws2007 I follower the same path, except I shot the first groups in the factory stock to check accuracy. It is now in an Oryx chassis. Just need more time to develop loads, though it really likes the ELDx factory loads.
@@diggernash1 Awesome. And I have usually had good results from factory loads. My Mossberg .308 is in an MDT chassis and it does well with the Hornady 150 gr SST. I may get into reloading and handloading, which means buying the equipment, first, for the 7 PRC. Not because of cost savings, of which there may not be any, but for availability. And people are still bidding $7/rd on GB. That is just a bit insane. I did get some there but it was a buy now at 4.74. Of the 175 gr ELD-X. And I have a deresonator to help tune the barrel. I got the Predator with the Cerakote.
Sometimes it helps to eject right after each shot and leave the bolt open, especially on thinner barrels. Seems to prevent (if even a tad bit) the barrel from overheating too quickly. I even take 2-3 mins between shots on my 700 5-R and that has a beefier barrel.
Thank you for showing the (what I think the proper) process for bore sighting. It is so easy and my preferred way of doing any rifle. It takes less shots to get on paper and you save some ammo from laser bore sighting and confirming at 25 yards. I will usually grab a piece of poster board and put a dot on it in the middle of the paper and with the look down the bore method, I can be zeroed in 3-5 shots when I do my part.
You nailed it, barrel heat. re: barrel break in... like cars, drive'm like their stolen. For hunting focus on cold bore shot. Re: scope I have the Arken... but it likes a lot of light for best image.
The Mossburge Patriot 7prc and & 6.5 prc shoot extremely well!! I also have the Ruger 7prc and the patriot shoots just as good! Iam shooting a 3/4 MOA IN both guns
I am excited about the 7mm PRC and possibly interested in the Ruger. The Ruger American is a great platform. About barrel break in, I have done it and/or have ignored it on several occasions. I couldn’t swear that it always makes a difference. The difference results may, IMO, be as a result of different barrel manufacturing and finishing techniques, ie modern vs traditional. As evidence different manufacturers have different recommendations for barrel break in and techniques are as different as the persons preforming them. For me the 7mm PRC ammo is too expensive to conduct the long method,as well as finding the rifles favorite load. I hope the price comes down. In the meantime I appreciate your efforts and expense. Thanks for the videos. I’m sure the rifle will settle in and be very accurate.
Great video thanks for sharing. I have had similar mixed results with Hornady ELD-X ammo and am not a fan. Assuming your scope and stock are properly tightened, try ditching the bipod and shoot off of a bag. It should make a difference since you are getting all that vibration from the bipod and table going back into the rifle. Have you considered a DIY glass bedding job on the front lug? That has tightened up groups for me on several rifles and is very economical. Happy shooting.
My only other comment is you are using a FFP scope. Use your reticle to measure how far you need to move your shots. Great video. Thank you for sharing.
Ditch the flimsy stock or fill the forend with epoxy and the butt stick with expanding foam. But make sure the forend is free floated and the rifle will shoot 100x better off a bipod.
I don’t want the Ruger in the 7mm prc I have some but the savage generally in a much better Rifle. The Arken is A very good optic for there price point . And I sight in a new set up the same way . I want a 7 mm prc in a heavy barrel savage .
I will get a Ruger American in 7mm PRC and put a Bell and Carlson aftermarket made for Ruger American stock for it. My son likes his Bell and Carlson Ruger American stock I got for him.
Personally I bought the mossberg patriot and love it under half inch! No such thing as barrel break in watch barbourcreek video on barrel break in! Also becareful loading that brass! That particular load are so spicy that primers are very loose and you will get leakage around the primers and casings will be junk! Feel free to search this problem there brass is really soft! Good luck!
I know this was about 6 months ago, but I was wondering if you have chrono'ed the hornady ammo. I just bought that same gun (not broke in yet) but am getting about 175fps lower than advertised for both ELD-x and ELD-M. I know its only 24" barrel but that is a lot lower than I expected
P.S. I did see with the match that seems to work much better at about 1,22 or 1.44 moa for this gun. I also heard a owner ran 40 rounds thru with a snake every 5 to get it in about 1in. Hav e fun would like to see if there is any salvation for this rifle seem alot sensitive to ammo...by alot Thank you,Tom
that's one thing nice about tikka rifles the barrels are cold hammer forged and don't require a barrel break in they shoot right out of the box. I have a ruger american predator 308 that will shoot 1inch and under groups even with cheap super x winchester ammo
I have one of those SH4 on my 280ai. On bright summer days, do you find that you're unable to actually focus on target with your EP5? Considering selling mine for a Sightron.
Did you remove the scope rail and reinstall it with all of the same precautions one would take had the scope rail and rifle were purchased separately? That would be my first step on rifles with scopes and/or scope rails included.
@@cherrycitygunsandammo1011 I treat my Ruger Americans like barreled actions. I purchased with an aftermarket stock or chassis in mind. I bought my first Ruger American (.308 standard) in 2012 and there were always 1 or 2 "flyers" in a 5 shot group when using a bipod with the factory stock. Try again with bags or rifle rest and see if you see improvements.
I have the same rifle in 7mm-08. It will put down a deer but it's nowhere near as accurate and precise as my Savage or Tikka rifles. My Ruger at best is 3MOA and that's trying 4 different rounds by different manufacturers.
What is the twist rate on your rifle my guess it's 1 in 10 175 is on the heavy side my 7mm rem mag likes 160 grain,my guess Ruger didn't go to a faster twist rate which the price was designed for.
Please get some low rings that scope is like it's in orbit around the rifle 😂. Never expect much from a cheap rifle unfortunately they just aren't worth the investment
with respect I think its you that's causing the bad grouping, your grip all over the show, thumb is changing positions and recoil management is not great, its visibly recoiling different most shots, the last 2 shots recoiled nicely without the jump and was reflected in the close poi.
Disagree. If I feel confident in my shot, I move it. I’ve worked sight in service at my gun club and have literally sighted in thousands of rifles. No advice needed.
@@jamessammann9183 well… you’re wrong. Gun was not canted. But go on believing what you will, I’m not interested in arguing the point with you. I’ve done a bit of long distance shooting myself.
@@briankelly2886 agreed. I thought I was going to need high rings for clearance. Obviously medium would have worked. I’m going to start by adding a cheek piece unless I get a new stock, which I am considering.
You might want to just shoot 3 and let your gun cool you shot a whole box and did not let it cool at all
I think you might need to let it cool in between every 3 or 4 shots .
I must have won the lottery with my 7 PRC patriot. It was the first 7 PRC that my FFL found in stick last November. I have heard horrible things about them, but mine shoots and has a decent trigger.
That makes two lucky guys. With one caveat. I know from my Mossberg Patriot .308 W that the synthetic stock has a design problem. The rifle is good but they refuse to fix the stock. The mag well is used as a shim. There is no bedding. And the rear action screw guide has a gap, from the molding process. You can never torque the back end down properly and you will crack the stock. This allows the action to move with the front action screw as a pivot or fulcrum. So, When I recently got my Patriot Predator 7 PRC, the first thing I did before firing it was put it in an Oryx chassis. All aluminum, the whole frame is metal bedding and I torque down to 60 ft-lbs and it does not move. The only thing I have to work on is the recoil management. The pad on the Oryx is unforgiving and the 7 PRC kicks a bit like a magnum. However, I had some shots, once I got sighted in, that were less than 1 inch at 100 yards. No official groups yet, I will get to that. If it went as wide as 1 MOA (1.047 inches, ) I will be happy for my hunting.
There seems to be a desire to hate Mossberg, especially since the videos from Backfire. Even after they received a replacement rifle that did considerably better. I have even have emailed Mossberg about the stock issue. So, I just assume that if I buy a Mossberg rifle in the Patriot or Predator line, I will be putting it in a different stock or chassis to address the bedding needs.
Edited to add: from the factory, the trigger is 2 pounds 2 ounces. Just fine for me. I have to rifles with lighter triggers, both of those are Mossbergs. They are less than 2 lbs from the factory, I have never adjusted the triggers.
@@ronws2007 I follower the same path, except I shot the first groups in the factory stock to check accuracy. It is now in an Oryx chassis. Just need more time to develop loads, though it really likes the ELDx factory loads.
@@diggernash1 Awesome. And I have usually had good results from factory loads. My Mossberg .308 is in an MDT chassis and it does well with the Hornady 150 gr SST.
I may get into reloading and handloading, which means buying the equipment, first, for the 7 PRC. Not because of cost savings, of which there may not be any, but for availability. And people are still bidding $7/rd on GB. That is just a bit insane. I did get some there but it was a buy now at 4.74. Of the 175 gr ELD-X. And I have a deresonator to help tune the barrel. I got the Predator with the Cerakote.
Sometimes it helps to eject right after each shot and leave the bolt open, especially on thinner barrels. Seems to prevent (if even a tad bit) the barrel from overheating too quickly. I even take 2-3 mins between shots on my 700 5-R and that has a beefier barrel.
Thank you for showing the (what I think the proper) process for bore sighting. It is so easy and my preferred way of doing any rifle. It takes less shots to get on paper and you save some ammo from laser bore sighting and confirming at 25 yards. I will usually grab a piece of poster board and put a dot on it in the middle of the paper and with the look down the bore method, I can be zeroed in 3-5 shots when I do my part.
Thank you for taking the time to comment.
You nailed it, barrel heat. re: barrel break in... like cars, drive'm like their stolen. For hunting focus on cold bore shot. Re: scope I have the Arken... but it likes a lot of light for best image.
My buddy has a custom by Whidden Gunworks that shot the factory Hornady Precision Hunter a hole and a half at 200 yards five shot groups.
The Mossburge Patriot 7prc and & 6.5 prc shoot extremely well!! I also have the Ruger 7prc and the patriot shoots just as good! Iam shooting a 3/4 MOA IN both guns
I am looking for one of those. I have one in 6.5cm and I put it in a chassis. Shot the best group of my life with that gun.
I have the same rifle and I topped mine with the Athlon Ares ETR in brown.
Good scope
This is why we buy custom guns😮
I am excited about the 7mm PRC and possibly interested in the Ruger. The Ruger American is a great platform. About barrel break in, I have done it and/or have ignored it on several occasions. I couldn’t swear that it always makes a difference. The difference results may, IMO, be as a result of different barrel manufacturing and finishing techniques, ie modern vs traditional. As evidence different manufacturers have different recommendations for barrel break in and techniques are as different as the persons preforming them. For me the 7mm PRC ammo is too expensive to conduct the long method,as well as finding the rifles favorite load. I hope the price comes down. In the meantime I appreciate your efforts and expense. Thanks for the videos. I’m sure the rifle will settle in and be very accurate.
Thank you for the kind comment.
@@abrowncitizen there are actually 2 loads. The 175gr hornady precision hunter and the 180gr hornady match. I just couldn’t find any match.
Great video thanks for sharing. I have had similar mixed results with Hornady ELD-X ammo and am not a fan. Assuming your scope and stock are properly tightened, try ditching the bipod and shoot off of a bag. It should make a difference since you are getting all that vibration from the bipod and table going back into the rifle. Have you considered a DIY glass bedding job on the front lug? That has tightened up groups for me on several rifles and is very economical. Happy shooting.
I am going to do a follow up. I will be shooting off a front rest and epoxy the fore end.
My only other comment is you are using a FFP scope. Use your reticle to measure how far you need to move your shots. Great video. Thank you for sharing.
Ditch the flimsy stock or fill the forend with epoxy and the butt stick with expanding foam. But make sure the forend is free floated and the rifle will shoot 100x better off a bipod.
I’m actually considering putting in a chassis.
Mcarbo makes a trigger spring that will drop the trigger down to 2 pounds. Need to let the rifle cool
After bore sighting should let barrel cool. Thin as that barrel is it’s going start walking hotter it gets.
hold the same aim point and walk your scope turrets to the bullet hole. a lot less shooting.
I don’t want the Ruger in the 7mm prc I have some but the savage generally in a much better Rifle. The Arken is A very good optic for there price point . And I sight in a new set up the same way . I want a 7 mm prc in a heavy barrel savage .
I will get a Ruger American in 7mm PRC and put a Bell and Carlson aftermarket made for Ruger American stock for it. My son likes his Bell and Carlson Ruger American stock I got for him.
You could fit a Mack truck between the barrel and the scope.
Personally I bought the mossberg patriot and love it under half inch! No such thing as barrel break in watch barbourcreek video on barrel break in! Also becareful loading that brass! That particular load are so spicy that primers are very loose and you will get leakage around the primers and casings will be junk! Feel free to search this problem there brass is really soft! Good luck!
Thank you for the information.
I rarely ever comment negatively.
Looks like a nice rifle. You can't go wrong with a Ruger.
The Ruger Americans are such great performers for the cost.
you could have adjusted right AND up after the first shot
I know this was about 6 months ago, but I was wondering if you have chrono'ed the hornady ammo. I just bought that same gun (not broke in yet) but am getting about 175fps lower than advertised for both ELD-x and ELD-M. I know its only 24" barrel but that is a lot lower than I expected
I haven’t. I should.
P.S. I did see with the match that seems to work much better at about 1,22 or 1.44 moa for this gun. I also heard a owner ran 40 rounds thru with a snake every 5 to get it in about 1in. Hav e fun would like to see if there is any salvation for this rifle seem alot sensitive to ammo...by alot Thank you,Tom
Especially with a magnum load all powders burn different I hand load all my rifles
that's one thing nice about tikka rifles
the barrels are cold hammer forged and don't require a barrel break in they shoot right out of the box. I have a ruger american predator 308 that will shoot 1inch and under groups even with cheap super x winchester ammo
i think ruger are cold hammered forged also if i remember correct
But, will Tikka ever plan to make a 7MM PRC?
I have one of those SH4 on my 280ai. On bright summer days, do you find that you're unable to actually focus on target with your EP5? Considering selling mine for a Sightron.
I haven’t had it long enough. This was my first time shooting with this scope.
Interested in this gun so far I have not seen any thing different. Am I correct was that about a 3 in moa ? Thanks, Tom
Did you remove the scope rail and reinstall it with all of the same precautions one would take had the scope rail and rifle were purchased separately? That would be my first step on rifles with scopes and/or scope rails included.
Yes I did. I degreased the holes and used loctite. Everything torqued to spec.
@@cherrycitygunsandammo1011 I treat my Ruger Americans like barreled actions. I purchased with an aftermarket stock or chassis in mind. I bought my first Ruger American (.308 standard) in 2012 and there were always 1 or 2 "flyers" in a 5 shot group when using a bipod with the factory stock. Try again with bags or rifle rest and see if you see improvements.
@@OC_Lofton will do, thanks for the advise.
This hurt watching you sight it in and especially not breaking the barrel in.
Stop watching
My Ruger Go Wild 6.5 PRC will throw the 4th shot everytime. Does not like being warm.
Cool video
Thank you
Thanks for the info, couldn't see dot shots the camera was off posistion , I subsdribed tiday thanks!
Thank you
Shooting a whole box of ammo at once shows absolutely nothing about the accuracy of the gun
I’m no expert but height over bore seems a little much
Great Video my friend
You have any issues with loading??
I have the same rifle in 7mm-08. It will put down a deer but it's nowhere near as accurate and precise as my Savage or Tikka rifles. My Ruger at best is 3MOA and that's trying 4 different rounds by different manufacturers.
I have the same rifle and mine shoots sub moa. Guess I got a good one.
My patriot in 270 winchester shoots 1 inch at 100yrds with winchester sp 150gr, but with 130gr ammo it's shoot really bad.
Omg this gun is horribly inaccurate
Does it come in left hand?🧠🤯🔫
I’m not sure.
What is the twist rate on your rifle my guess it's 1 in 10 175 is on the heavy side my 7mm rem mag likes 160 grain,my guess Ruger didn't go to a faster twist rate which the price was designed for.
1 in 8 for the PRC.
1:8.
Please get some low rings that scope is like it's in orbit around the rifle 😂. Never expect much from a cheap rifle unfortunately they just aren't worth the investment
Don't like arken scopes
I do
I love Arken scopes. I have at least 5 of them.
@@countrykang8 this is my first, and so far, I’m impressed.
@Big Country I have had 3 they are not waterproof. Took it hunting ..will not buy again cheap junk.
@@jamessammann9183 I have taken mine hunting and haven't had any issues with water or moisture.
You never gave us a view of the target? Too blurry! Why not at least say what the groups were?
Seemed pretty clear with the grid of 1” squares what the groups were.
Shot 4 in same hole with my 7 prc taken it out to 1000 yRds
Ruger ?
Other CZcams videos are getting the same terrible results from this rifle......Pretty much the worse Ruger American I have seen and I have many.
Every Ruger American I have Owned shot under MOA! with that ammo sucked
with respect I think its you that's causing the bad grouping, your grip all over the show, thumb is changing positions and recoil management is not great, its visibly recoiling different most shots, the last 2 shots recoiled nicely without the jump and was reflected in the close poi.
Personally, i think alot of barrel break in is a myth. Idk, im not an expert.
Ruger is only best with 6.5 Creedmoor
😆😆😆
Our ruger predator 6.5 creedmoor doesn't like to feed the first round for some reason. Waiting for our oryx chassis to come in
Our ruger predator 6.5 creedmoor doesn't like to feed the first round for some reason. Waiting for our oryx chassis to come in
You play with your scope to much , shoot a group then move the scope your just chasing
Disagree. If I feel confident in my shot, I move it. I’ve worked sight in service at my gun club and have literally sighted in thousands of rifles. No advice needed.
I don’t think you need to do a review on a arc and cause there’s like 3000 of them otherwise good video thanks
@@abrowncitizen the scope, not the chambering of the rifle. And they have been beat to death in reviews.
U are canting your gun when u shoot
Nope. Even have an anti cant level on the scope. You can’t tell anything from the side.
@Cherry City Guns and Ammo I'm a long distance shooter I can tell by your target ..
@@jamessammann9183 well… you’re wrong. Gun was not canted. But go on believing what you will, I’m not interested in arguing the point with you. I’ve done a bit of long distance shooting myself.
My two cents says you need to lower that scope and add a cheekpiece. Hard to be consistent without a good cheekweld!
@@briankelly2886 agreed. I thought I was going to need high rings for clearance. Obviously medium would have worked. I’m going to start by adding a cheek piece unless I get a new stock, which I am considering.