Excavator repair: No Power, Stalling, Fuel tank and Filters. Yanmar ViO-50
Vložit
- čas přidán 29. 09. 2022
- My Yanmar has a problem where it loses power and then stalls. It's worse the higher the throttle is set. I've tried running it with the fuel cap off and that made no difference. Changing the inline fuel filter helps for a while, but then it happens again. What can I do to fix this thing?
Addressing some questions:
Why not use rust remover? Haven't heard of that before, and won't it just rust again? I didn't want to experiment only to find that I somehow made the problem worse. Are all rust removers compatible with diesel?
Magnets? Would certainly help, and I may do that if I continue to have problems. But they would require cleaning periodically. Would have to remove the side panel, and then the sending unit every time to clean. I could put a magnet on the side of the filters. I've never tried that before.
Why didn't I put the second tee in the other orientation so both filters have a 90 degree turn, equalizing the bias? Because I'm an idiot, that's why. I should have thought of that, and will do so. ;-)
What about electrolysis? Never thought of it. Cool idea, but it would also just rust again.
But you didn't really fix it. True, but that's the nature of owning and running machinery. You have to pick your battles, and choose where your time is best spent. To really fix this, I would have to remove the fuel tank and apply a tank lining product that should be a permanent fix. If it continues to plague me, I will probably do this at some point. But it would be many hours of work just to get that tank off.
Were those really sparks? Apparently some people think it was just light reflection. I don't think so myself, but I guess it's possible. I tried it twice more to see if I could repeat it and with the same camera and light setup, I didn't see the same result. I filmed sparks before, and that's exactly what they look like in freeze frame.
MERCH STORE!:
www.farmcraft101.com
Amazon Affiliate Storefront:
www.amazon.com/shop/farmcraft101
Patreon:
/ farmcraft101
Buy me a coffee:
www.buymeacoffee.com/farmcraf...
Facebook:
/ farmcraft101
Evolution power tools affiliate link: (promo code: Farmcraft)
aspireiq.go2cloud.org/aff_c?of...
Save 5% for yourself and also help out the channel. Thanks! - Jak na to + styl
Excavator video this week. I'm still waiting on parts for the dump truck, but at this point I'm quite certain I have located everything I need. I HUGE thank you to all the people who reached out with suggestions and offers to help. Much appreciated! If you like the video, don't forget to give it a thumbs up, and check out my amazon store: www.amazon.com/shop/farmcraft101. Many of my favorite tools are listed there. Have an awesome weekend folks!
Better option is a large filter similar in size as the main fuel filter, and perhaps a screen added to the replaceable filter to trap some of the larger debris.
I would also consider flushing the tank with a some diesel & a small fuel pump into a bucket with a funnel to trap the debris. Let it run for an hour or two to get all of the loose debris out of the tank. Other wise your just burning $$$ buying replacement filters.
You could also consider applying a Fuel tank sealer (KBS coatings). to seal off the rust & reduce contamination).
Wait isn't the state DOT supposed to take care of the "curb" to make sure it's a smooth transition. I no with most states that'd be like pulling teeth getting it done
I've used the tank sealing kits on an old 72 Suzuki dirt bike. I bet if you poured some in and used your bloe gun to spread it around some. You would get a lot of the rusty floor covered.
Just want to say i really appreciate the pacing and editing of your videos, keep up the good work, and the diversity of the content is excellent.
What a pain in the Johnson.
I’m involved with experimental aircraft, one thing we learned about the pre filter you’re using is if the paper element gets water on it it will not pass fuel. You mentioned that you get condensation in the tank, if the water condensate makes it to that paper element in the filter it will act as though it is blocked. We don’t use them in aircraft for that reason. Something to think about.
I really don’t think those were sparks. It looked like droplets of fuel reflecting the light to me. With the camera looking into a dark tank a small reflection of light will appear overly bright. Also sparks would have illuminated the inside of the tank making everything noticeably brighter and that doesn’t appear to happen.
I agree, that's exactly what it looked like to me. If it were sparks it would have likely ignited that vaporized fuel.
Agreed, I came looking into the comments just for this
👍
It was defo RED dirty weasel diesel vaporising, with light shining through it made it kinda look like sparks but it was 100% not any kinda fire /ignition
...regardless I learned a lot from his speculation as well as this exchange concerning his speculation...thanks to you all.
Idea, just put a second tank on the excavator and bypass the first. Quick, simple and effective. You could even cut the forward wall of the old tank you have access to and place a new plastic tank inside the old rusty tank. Then just utilize the existing fuel lines in place and the old fuel tank as a mounting bracket.
This is how people used to deal with broken TVs. They'd use the old dead console black and white TV as a stand for the svelte new color TV.
That's a prety hack job way to fix a tank that's really not that rusty. There are other ways to clean a tank and not have to take it out.
He could use a temporary plastic tank and use it for a bit with abrasive in the crusty tank and have it clean while its being used.
@@shoopnooop2952 that's a good idea! I like useing chain for in tank cleaning. You pull out one piece it all comes out.
I read that as "just put a second excavator on the tank and bypass the first." Now that's an idea, lmao!
I have an idea. Make (or maybe find) a canister filter housing and put removable neodymium magnets on the outside. Since this is rust it will stick to the sides of the canister where the magnets are and would be a quick easy clean out WITHOUT flow restriction issues. Once it is made it is a final solution with no more cost involved. Win, win.
Yes UP vote.
Agreed, did this to a filthy landrover tank, worked a treat.
I was thinking just slap some magnets on the outside of the tank also...
Haha that is a great idea!
That's pretty clever. I wonder why it isn't main stream. Maybe it's time for you to start manufacturing them or something.
I welded up a stainless steel fuel tank for my boat. It had to be of certain dimensions since it was going into the center console. I know I read in the comments about an additional or replacement tank being redneckish or a hacky way of doing things but honestly, I don't believe your main purpose is to win a beauty contest. I believe you just want to get some production out of a $20k+ piece of machinery you purchased. Life is short my friend and it shouldn't be full of drama and frustration. Get one built (or if you can TIG, do it yourself) and enjoy using what you purchased.
Phosphoric acid will remove rust only, without damaging the tank,just degrease the tank first.
Filters can clog because of the fuel hoses degrading themselves from the inside,it's generally a black deposit.
Check if the filtered material is magnetic or not.
A big magnet can avoid rust to be sucked in the filter,stick it close,in front to the suction tube orifice.
Yeah, or any of the commercial rust converters which is usually tannic acid and/or phosphoric acid, plus various additives to make it work faster/better. And then use some kind of Epoxy Sealer which binds any remaining crud and stops any further problems - it'll probably outlast the rest of the vehicle.
Put rags into the tank and blow them around using a high pressure air line. Clean / replace rags and continue until clean ;)
@@aeros4me 👍 I have also used muriatic acid to clean rusty metal tanks.
@@Torbjorn.Lindgren Absolutely! John has a tendency to over think when the solution could be much simpler.
Most rust isn't magnetic. It depends on the oxide. A magnet lets most rust past.
I know the "dumb farmer" trope is a complete farce, but still amazing to see the non-linear "maths" of how fuel filter lifespan works so intuitively explained. It's a real gift that you take time time to share all the complex work farmers have to do and reason through
Thanks John. My wife and I have been binge watching your channel from the very first video. Thanks for the wonderful content and the humour, so much better than "traditional TV".
Even diesel tanks condensate water out of the air inside the tank. Add red bottle HEET (Heet Iso-HEET Water Remover And Premium Fuel Line Antifreeze + Injector Cleaner) Helps to stop rust. That 2nd filter is a Sediment Filter(&water), heavies would drop to the bottom of the bowl, just remove bowl (when needed) clean and replace. The little filter will last a long time. Great videos Jon, I watch a lot!
Jeez Jon, you own a dump truck, why don't you just go and get some fill material instead of scraping the ditch??? Too soon? Sorry. :) One thought about the tank, you could hang a magnet in there to try to catch some more of the junk as well. I always glue a magnet into any closed boxes that I build (oil pan, trans pan, axle case). If the material flow continues, you could use a magnet with a hole in it, in the tank and tie it to the sender somewhere so that you can pull it out to clean the magnet off. Nice work, and thanks for bringing us along.
Do yourself a favor and buy a neodymium magnet and leave it in the tank, near the outlet. Periodically remove and clean. The magnets won't rust themselves, if submerged. Great video sir!
Put a neodymium magnet in your excavator fuel tank tie it to a stainless wire to catch all the rust. I’ve bought neodymium magnets with holes on eBay-they are strong and may grab all the rust when the diesel sloshing around. I enjoy your videos and have certainly benefited from many of your trials and tribulations. Lol
Best regards
John
I enjoy this guy. He is always polite, uses appropriate language and has a positive approach to his work.
Bend the line inside the tank upwards about an inch or 2. It will help alot from picking up the stuff at the bottom. Has helped me many times in those same situations.
Love your stuff Jon. Back in the 80’s I was having the same problem with my Diesel tank on a JCB, so I cut a hole out large enough to get my arm in to clear the bottom of the tank. I made a plate bigger than the hole, put a rubber gasket on and used self tappers to hold it on. It turned out a good idea at the time. I was able to access the tank later on. Keep up the great content Jon. 👍🔧🇬🇧
I had a JCB 214 has large inspection covers so I could clean fuel and hydraulic tanks.
Best to do so every few years.
Cheers
Leave some evaporust in the tank for 24 hours and then drain it. I’ve had awesome success with old motorcycle tanks that way.
A few observations here.
Your comment about pressure washing the tank. It can be done without causing rust. Soda,Sodium Carbonate,or dishwasher detergent can be used. Just about any alkaline product will stop ferrous metal from rusting.
A previous comment suggested bending the end of the tank fuel feed pipe up a little. Very good idea.
One thing in particular I got bit on,years ago. I am guessing the Diesel fuel injection rack has an electrical solenoid doing the on/off cycle. Make absolutely certain the lever is going all the way on during the run cycle,and all the way off during shutoff. I there is any question about the proper operation of that solenoid,either replace it or replace the mechanism with a Bowden cable assembly where you personally push the lever to full on or full shutoff.
Hesitation and uncertain running can be caused by what I just described, at the very same time as a fuel contamination problem. And with two causes,endless hate is the result.
Lastly,just about any competent shop manual for a Diesel engine is going to have a flow chart for diagnosis. I hope you have such a manual. Please read that part carefully.
Don't go chasing your tail unnecessarily. Been there. It is no fun at all.
All the best with your beast.
I admire you in so many ways it's hard to know where to start but the biggest one is how diligent you are when it come to cleaning before you get started working on anything. It drives me crazy when I watch CZcams videos of people working on cars, or anything for that matter, without power washing or degreasing them First. I'm always impressed on how thorough a job you do cleaning Anything. But your idea about using a sandblaster as vacuum was the best, Thank you!
Ah ! Eric L got there first !
Thought I was going to be genius LOL !
Tank inside a tank !
Keep the videos coming , big thumbs up !
The shed does the job nicely weathering nice, I've gone 1600km, s in my car and never seen an excavator beside the road, cheers.😁
I´m confused. See your diagram and understand the technical background of this solution opend my eyes and shows me, how stupid i am ! Hahaha ! Great videos and greetings from germany !
An observation, may or may not be of value. How about changing the orientation of the T fittings so that both filters encounter the same resistance? That way, they should clog at the same rate, in which case your explanation of the service frequency would hold (even more) true.
Great video as always, especially enjoyed using the venturi effect for sucking and blowing!
I had the same thought and comment before I read yours
Tees are in backwards. That’s why the one filter is not working until the first one clogs up
My thought was get rid of the "T" connector and use a "Y" connector.
Ha! Just made the same comment!👍
I am a new viewer; I have put some thought into your fuel filtering problem. Use a five gallon plastic bucket filled two thirds with diesel; set it aside. Now with eight or more inches of rubber fuel line, secure a weight (maybe a piece of lead as long as lead does not react adversely to diesel) three or more inches from one end of rubber hose. Now, at the same end of hose, secure an air tight float. Then put a filter at the same end of this hose.
Now put this in your bucket of diesel making sure the hose fills with diesel. Add or delete just enough of the weight so the float will maintain the filter at a position approximately four inches from the surface of the diesel. When this adjustment is to your satisfaction, connect and clamp the opposite end of the rubber fuel line to the intake at the bottom of the fuel tank using long needle nose plyers.
The sediment within your tank even with the rapid movements of your machine should not be able to reach the intake filter within your tank. Maintain high level of fuel in tank.
The graph helped me understand the two parallel filter lasting longer than twice as long (for your situation)
When I was a diesel mechanic we would do what we called a hot shot. We would drain it, put degreaser inside, scrub it the best we could with a rag on a metal rod, then get the heated pressure washer as hot as possible and blast the inside out then run a fan into the tank to dry it out. That was the best way to clean the crud.
Keeping the tank full will keep the walls from rusting, but if you don't purge the water frequently, it'll still rust the bottom.
I'm not talking out of experience with gas tanks here, but at least theoretically, it shouldn't be the case. Think submerged structures, they never rust when they are fully submerged. I have seen bridge foundation piles dragged out of a river bed, as good as new after 50 years of sitting submerged.
@@mehdimarashi1736 I am speaking from experience. I once had a motorcycle on which the fuel tap didn't reach to the very bottom corner of the contoured steel tank. Most copies of that model bike had rust start in that bottom corner, within a few years, if you didn't treat it with alcohol periodically.
Even gasohol can get too much water to absorb in a low tank after a long time sitting.
@@davesvoboda2785 Good to know. Experience trumps naïve theory every day. +1 to you, sir!
You were correct, I was dubious of your 'two filter' solution till I saw the graph. Nice!
It might be worth installing a beacon on the roof of the excavator, or having a small magnetic one you can put up there when working roadside.
It really helps people distinguish operating plant next to the road much earlier to give you more room or reduce speed a little.
I had a big Liebherr excavator that had fuel problems. Turns out there were 2 inches of sludge in the tank. I drained it and sucked up all the sludge with a shop vacuum. Then I installed a new fuel pump and it ran great afterward.
Your sense of humor has me on the floor crying laughing throughout the video. Thanks for making these videos, they make my day!
We had the same issue with our old "Weidemann" wheelloader. My way to fix it... Cut the steel tank open and install a plasic tank inside it. Works for 10 Years now. : ))
Incredible idea using the sandblasting gun as a vacuum 👍 Brilliant 🙂
I was gobsmacked when I saw this idea! Fabulous!
Will have to park that solution up in the brain cells, if I can find any more room. Your explanation made perfect sense.
I like the idea of a string of magnets on a wire, it should catch all the rust and metal crud. Have the magnets sitting on the bottom and you can retrieve it periodically.
To bolt a plate to the outside of the tank, you could fabricate a frame/flange that would sit on the inside of the tank to receive your bolts, sandwiching the tank wall. You could also secure it to the inside of the tank with external bolts, effectively using the tank wall as a bulkhead.
I hate math, but that demo at the end was nice, understandable and interesting
Good call on the filters..keep tank full, replacing filters should eventually get all the crap out of the tank.. hopefully
I'm glad you figured out a solution to a not so modular problem. Great job! :D
Jon interesting video@s you keep it up , I have some vintage tractors here on the farm in the UK and rust in the the fuel tank is old problem , The way I overcome this was by putting an piece of light chain on the end of fuel cap long enough for it to roll /slide around the bottom of the fuel tank , when the machine is in use it will do the cleaning for you , you may have to change some filters to begin with but after that the fuel tank will be like new inside , best wishes Ton van den Berge UK
Invert your tubes on the tee after the filters. That's a nice way to help even out your parallel flow... The filters that feeds from the branch of the tee before the filter should feed the inline part of the tee after the filtre. That way both filter has tee branch on his circuit (each circuit get a tee branch and one inline tee...). We see that kind principle in hydronic heating system to help naturally even out the flow in multiple radiators circuit.
Inverting the tubes is an easy task and also I'm curious to see if both filters would fill up on start-up with this mod.
Awesome work, really like the filter graph explanation. 👍
Loved that idea of the sand blaster! Brilliant
I always look forward to your videos, John. Thank you.
Always fascinating to see good problem solving. Also interesting to see how some things are built with a thought to future maintenance and some things ... well....
I have similar Io 15 Yanmar machine. Drained tank blew air into pickup line then used a shop vacuum cleaner with small flex pipe to clean tank.It was a plastic tank .
They make a" cream " to coat steel fuel tanks. I used it on 2000 Ford 7.3 psd tanks which had galvanized particles coming off into fuel took a gallon. That tank is not that bad....
Best machine I ever owned.
And the duel fuel filters…brilliant!!😄👍
Great content as usual FC101! Your problem solving and thought process is relevant to so many everyday situations...thank you
Some really ingenious comments from the viewers. I remember a movie about drug runners from the 80's where their plane had 3 fuel filters in parallel. With shut off valves to replace in flight if needed. I guess the avgas handling in Columbia wasn't super hygienic - LOL. Was taking Physics in college about that time and it resonated with me.
Andrew throws a blue shop towel in tanks and blows them around. It's amazing how clean the tanks look when he's done.
Try a sausage or a Twinkie on a stick ! Seems like a better idea than tools on a stick.
I find all of your content to be both interesting, and very helpful. Keep doing your thing man.
Love the filters in parallel trick! Never thought it would work so well. Gonna keep that one in the back pocket for a rainy day
I remember seeing an old advertisement from the 1940s maybe? It was basically a Venturi attachment that you’d stick over your car’s exhaust pipe, and it had what was effectively a long vacuum hose coming off of it. You’d just use that to vacuum out your car’s interior, blowing all the crap out behind the car with the exhaust I guess. Definitely gave me a laugh.
Power washer does a great job at cleaning them out. Would have tried that first.
Krud Kutter is great for removing rust from a tank,you can buy it at home depot. It will desolve it gentally and neutrilize with water. Drain excess water and stick a hair dyer in the sending unit hole to dry it out. I'm subscribed so Ill be watching .Im building a trailer that is multi tasking ,I think you might enjoy the build. If you could find a thread on canister base and use a thread on filter it would last longer because it would hold more crud.
I think you’re better off taking that in-line filter off and returning it back to the factory two filters. Hear me out the factory water separator also acts as a sediment bowl allowing all the big stuff to fall out of suspension and drop down to be drained out. The little in-line filter just doesn’t have the capacity that the factory one does. Just my thoughts
Always learn something from your videos thanks
I'm with you on the sparks. Might be interesting to put some different metal shavings, rust, sand, stones, in a metal tube and blow it out in a dark room.
Excellent presentation on the optimization benefits of in-line filters. The area under the curve! lol
Great and interesting video as always. It is really nice that you even use/show the metric system for all of us who uses that,
Really earned the channel name on this one! On the farm, where a random piece of #9 wire can sometimes be the most important and versatile tool in the box! Love it, and I miss farming. 😒
Interesting watch as you sort problems out on the fly.
There's lots of magnetic pre-filters available, at all sorts of costs... long term just get a plastic tank and be done with it! 10t of type 1 (don't know what you call it in the US) would stabilize that edging and not be so prone to creep. Great video.
Wow, another great video. Please keep them coming!
Your work around was very clever and makes perfect sense after you explained your theory but if I'm being honest I'd of never thought of it. That's what makes this channel one of the best on CZcams. Thanks for sharing buddy
For your view port idea, if you decide to do that in the future, press nuts are great for that sort of thinner metal. Mcmcaster has them. part # 96439A600 stainless 1/4-20 for example. They have all sizes.
One way to do it: Cut the hole, put a flange on top of it, drill bolt holes, remove flange, use flange hole pattern and drill holes to view port plate, put bolts to flange holes (note inside out) and weld bolts on the flange, put the flange inside the tank, bolts sticking out of the tank shell holes, tag weld flange to tank shell.
Concerning inline fuel filters, NAPA has 2 different inline fuel filters. One is a gas filter, the other is a diesel filter. Be sure you get the correct one. Gas will flow through a diesel filter much easier than diesel will flow through a gas filter. Using 2 filters in parallel is a very good idea.
VERY NICE WORK. !!!!!!! KEEP SAFE...... PUT EXTRA 3X BIGGER FILTER...
Nice to see the excavator running well and bummer for waiting on parts for the dump track
Argh. Why is it every... E V E R Y supplier says 'waiting on manufacturer'? The universe didn't get COVID and die... they just don't keep the parts in stock and want an excuse to wait for a 'container-load' order because 'executive bonuses' for 'efficiency'. J.I.T. ordering sucks for customers and there was a time that businesses actually SERVED THE CUSTOMER and not some half-wit college grad who's daddy got him a job deciding who gets parts and when.
Dawn dish soap to wash out the diesel residue, then dump 4 or 5 gallons of distilled vinegar and let it sit. You will be amazed how nice that tank will look
I remember when our forklift fuel tanks started rusting on the inside. Our on site mechanic stuck a heavy duty magnet in the tank near the output.
Now I'm only an operator so I don't know if it did anything but the mechanic seemed pleased with himself.
Hey,you can use vinegar for cleaning the tank,it will eat all those rust away.safest cleaning options so far
Thanks for the explanation on the filter life, when i saw you implement it i thought "oh great that means 4 hours run time between changes which is okay i guess but not really great" but then you show the graph and explain, and suddenly it dawns on me. Thank you for that
Really great video.. personally I would have liked to have seen a brand new plastic fuel tank. This was great too :)
Cool Hack! Thanks for explaining how those 2 fuel filters work. And again another great video. Take care from Canada eh!
You are awesome in the way you analyze, explain, & fix a problem! Great job 👏🇨🇱🙋♀️
Totally agree, he breaks things down for a simple mind like mine to comprehend
Found out what that "solenoid" was that was leaking, you just tightened it( first video). It is solenoid that is actuated by the ecu to improve efficiency by changing the flow conditions of the fluid due to environmental conditions
I'm 10min in to this video (man the sparks were Bizarre), and you just found all the rust in the bottom of the tank. I just want to say, before i watch the rest, that i would simply reline the bottom of the tank with tank urethane and simply trap it all in place. (But not w/o first checking the walls and top of the tank for flaking-off rust) 👍
Clever understanding and explanation!
I love your attitude, John! You have a very good understanding of the engineering elements of what you are doing, and that makes your videos more enjoyable to watch.
For the filtering problem, I think you can make a canister filter out of a piece of steel pipe if you can find some room for it somewhere before the paper filters. That should do the trick.
Your explanation of filters was manifique. 💪
I used the same "hack" for my irrigation water filters a few houses back. Originally couldn't get through a single watering, then it was more like every 3rd watering that needed cleaned. Works well when used in the right places for sure!
no idea but i get goosebumps of well explained graphs lol awesomevideo again, to oshort tho!!!
Good tip on the dual filter.
Late suggestion:
You can cut the wall of the tank in a rectangular opening and then cut a 1/4" thick backer plate so you can tap the holes. Have the backer and the cover overlap the tank opening an inch on a side. Then fasten the backer in with a couple small flathead screws. Drill and tap the tank, after the backer is installed, for as many bolts as needed to hold the cover plate securely. Put a good gasket and some sealer on the gasket. Bolt the whole thing together and Bob's yer uncle.😁😎
You are a great mechanic
I have an ‘87 International truck with what I suspect is a rusty fuel tank. You have given me some good ideas for future fixing it struggle sessions. The advantage I have , of course, is that my tank is out in the open and can be easily removed and dealt with. I have already installed a cheap eBay water separator/filter but that tank is going to have to come off either way. Great video!
Great videos and great tips!
I'm disappointed you didn't plough the dirt into the drive with the excavator bucket sticking out into the road...🤣🤣
Ideas re the tank/fuel system:
1. stick the nozzle of a power washer through the sending unit hole and move it about. With the drain plug removed the pressure and water should dislodged any loose rust particles.
2. seal and fully fill tank with a mix of water and STAR BRITE Star Tron Tank Cleaner, Leave it sit for 24/48 hours, then empty, rinse and repeat.
3. use a metal, or even a plastic screen filter before the pelted paper filter to catch the big stuff.
4. attach some neodymium magnets, with tape, so you can remove them when replacing the filters, to those plastic inline filters you're using so they catch some of the rust before it gets to the filter paper. It'll should make the filters last a bit longer
5. place some strong magnets near the pickup tube in the tank to catch the rust as it floats by
Have you considered putting neodymium magnets near the inlet so the rust flakes get snagged as they approach the pipe? The rust will build up a ball in the tank right next to the magnet, but you can slide that towards one of the ports and out, by sliding the magnet along the outside of the tank. Our Kubota has a magnetic filter that runs the fuel through a small detachable chamber that sits in a ringmagnet, and I absolutely love that design. The chamber is basically just a little cylinder like those things you turned your camera film in with. Pops out for easy cleaning, and is bright orange which is EPIC because (blush of shame) I drop everything that is not attached to my body
I love what you did with putting the filters in parallel. I think while I had the tank apart, I maybe would’ve clean the tank out with soapy water. Then ran a hose through it, then took an old refillable fire extinguisher filled with diesel and sprayed it in the tank just to rinse the water out of the tank. I think there’s a lot of small dust like particles that are clogging those in-line filters pretty fast. Thanks for the video I always learn something new from you!
Use Ospho (phosphoric acid) to neutralize the rust. It turns iron oxide into iron phosphate which is inert. You can then vacuum out the loose black particles and even rinse with some diesel and drain be removing the drain valve. A screen over the pick up tube is a good idea.
Great channel, Farmboy.
Nice fix!
Good idea with the 2 pre filters makes perfect sense WITH them in parallel @FarmCraft101
Sounds like you've got it working well. My only thought is maybe bending up the fuel pick up pipe in the tank to get if further from the tank floor. The sediment was pretty small so might not make much of a difference.
if you turn your T for the 2 inline filter you will get equal (ish) flow to both of them
bottom of the T is the inlet, left and right of the T sends fuel to the filters making the fuel make a right and left to each filter rather than 1 filter going straight and the other with a turn
great content as always!!
what about using a fuel bladder inside the tank.. trying to think out of the square rusty box you have plaguing your efforts
Put a strong magnet on the bottom of the tank. Loose metal pieces will stay on that side of the tank over the magnet. Old speaker magnets work great.
So just my two cents my friend I have a mini excavator that had the same pre filter you have and it kept dieing like that. I figured out the hard way that them time of inline filters wasn't ment for diesel I changed to the correct filter and problem went away. Keep up the good videos
Easy and cheap way to make the tank look like new with out removing it is to use electrolysis. I did it on a a metal tank that was in a Mazda Miata and it work great. Looked worse than your tank and took 24 hours to clean it. I suspended a piece of rebar for the electrode.
Word of advice if you want to avoid changing those but also get the gunk out of your tank. Which is what I'm currently doing now... Buy a universal fuel filter for a fuel depot/ pump (spin on) reduce the 3/4 down to 1/8 inch then use the 1/8 by 5/16 barb. then install that before your pre filter to get the stuff out, and use that inline as a visual cue. replace the spin on as needed.