DIY How To Replace a Leaking Tides Marine Dripless Shaft Seal in Simple Steps
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- čas přidán 24. 07. 2024
- Easy DIY guide on how to replace a Tides Marine dripless seal without removing the shaft. This guide assumes you have basic mechanical skills and tools, and are comfortable working around your boat.
First, let's gather the materials and tools you'll need:
• New Tides Marine dripless seal
• Screwdriver
• adjustable ratcheting Screwdriver amzn.to/3AFeugJ
• 2 Flathead Screwdrivers (In Case one doesn't bite)
• Crescent Wiss Tin Snips 9 3/4" amzn.to/41V3rLT
• Crescent Wiss 13" Tin Snips. amzn.to/3N1tVHj
• Scott Blue Shop Towels amzn.to/40xaB7X
If you are not comfortable working with seals or mechanical systems, do not attempt this procedure yourself. Seek professional help. 👍
Now, let's get started with the step-by-step process:
Step1: Remove the two screws holding the protective collar in place on the replacement seal.
Step 2: Remove the set screws holding the collar in place on the seal housing. These screws will be located on the forward end of the seal housing.
Step 3: Once the nuts are removed, carefully separate the two halves of the seal housing.
Step 4: Remove the seal retaining split ring and move it in front of the new seal. You may need to use a screwdriver to carefully pry it off.
Step 5: Remove the old seal from the shaft. You may need to use a screwdriver to carefully pry it off.
Step 6: Clean the shaft and the housing thoroughly with solvent and a rag.
Step 7: Slide the new seal back to the seal housing. Reassemble the seal housing, making sure to align the two halves carefully.
Step 8: Tighten the screws on the seal housing evenly, alternating between sides to ensure a proper seal.
Congratulations! You have successfully replaced your Tides Marine dripless seal without removing the shaft.
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Definitely switching to Tides dripless when my current ones go bad. Having extra seals lined up for easy replacement is BRILLIANT!!! :)
Nice Video--makes me wish my PSS seals were Tides.
Super demo! I have these and now I know how to change. Thank you.
I have the same system and always wondered how I’d do the changeout someday. Very useful information!
Well, Jon, yet another well done video for educating people on how to do things yourself, and do them right. Excellent videos, professionally done, well photographed, well thought out. Nice job buddy.
Jon-what a brilliant video. Thanks for calming the fears on water entry-I have the same system and have wondered how I’m going to handle it when the time comes.
Thanks for the great video. Needing to change mine after about eight years.
Great Job, Skipper...!!!
Thanks!
With popcorn in hand I was nervously anticipating a Titanic-ish disaster. My engineer is a CPR expert so not to worry Jon… Great job, you made it look too easy, have a good week y’all!.
I love popcorn and I know CPR and I hope that neither of those will happen in the engine room *K
Good video and good comments. Made replacing mine easy, however hard to just get to. I went down to do this project with a full stomach... bad choice... working half upside down in a hot bilge was not good.
Wife and myself also toying with the same idea :) safe journeys!
Thanks, you too!
Tides are the next dripless seals I am going to install. The PYI have been nothing but trouble. I have replaced them twice and they start leaking after 1 or 2 seasons. Good video as usual.
If you are going through dripless shaft seals at an unusual rate, there might be another problem. Many times a ding on the prop will translate into a small vibration in the shaft and into the dripless seal. You might not even feel the vibration but just because you don't feel it doesn't mean it's not there. Additionally, these vibrations can eventually act on, and start producing metal, in your transmission.
As a marine surveyor, I have seen this happened before. I suggest a very close inspection of the propeller on the side of the shaft that continuously needs to be replaced. That might be the culprit-might not be, but it's certainly worth a look.
nice!!
I believe there is a little inner ring on the casing of the spare seal that is intended for use to help push the new seal into position (instead of hammer the new seal).
Does the shaft seal need to be water fed? Or is that as is and just used the hose as a vent?
A section of the propeller shaft is water fed and jacketed in water for lubrication while it is spinning
Great diy video ( again) question.. when you're on the hard do you just install another future seal?... I do this with inside v- belts on the engine. Would make sense with the seals to me
I changed my and it still leaking. I have to move the shaft to a position where is not. Wondering if my shaft is vent somehow or if my cutlass bearing is bad.
Help.
I forgot to mention that my isn't this eas, it's under the engine with not espace.
It took me a whole 5 minutes to realize why the new seals were mounted on a shaft in the first place. 🤣
Nice engine room. Just saying, get some real tools. I would of lubed the shaft a bit first. The engine coupling on my boat would never be let to get looking like that. (Former marine diesel mechanic.) Live long and prosper.🥰
Pretty sure the instructions say NOT to lube (except maybe a bit of soap) as it can damage the seal. I expect that is a YCA instruction as people can and will use improper lubricants. One safe for the seal material would almost certainly be fine.
I still don’t know why people think these cleverly engineered seals are better than old fashioned flax and wax compression seals. Two wrenches and a $5 bag of replacement stuffing is all that’s needed. If you carefully monitor a fresh install, you readjust the compression until the drips just stop when at rest or reduce the drip to one a minute when running. It isn’t rocket science. A little water in the bilge helps keep it clean as it gets bilge pumped out with the crap that falls into the bilge from life aboard.
you are so right. I have had two emergency haulouts with PSS dripless seals.. one was the prev owner of my Sabre 42 and yesterday my Sabre 36 was taking on 5 gallons an hour underway running out of the PSS dripless bellows leak.. Not to mention that you need to haulout and 6 hours at $180 an hour to decouple the shaft, replace a PSS dripless, and put it all back together again.
I had the old fashioned flax and wax in my Krogen 42. worked great and nearly costless.