Bodywork Without Welding
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- čas přidán 25. 08. 2024
- I was working on my very rusty 2003 Honda Pilot when I found a big hole in one of the inner rear panels. The location of the hole meant I wasn’t going to be able to use my welder for the fix. So I tried this alternative method of attaching metal patches and it worked great.
I hope you’re able to use this information to fix your own vehicle. It’s really not that difficult, and it can be fun.
Be sure to check the links below for other videos about this Pilot project #ETCGHackHawk
Thanks for watching!
#ETCGVideo #ETCGHackHawk #Bodywork
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Back in high school auto shop days - '78,'79 ,we had no plasma cutters, mig welders or even zip wheels. Everything was cut out with snips and/ or an air chisel. Rust was ground off as best as possible with a 16 grit disc. Maybe you treated the metal with Naval Jelly. Patches were brazed on with an O/A torch or fastened with pop rivets. Bondo over it and undercoat behind. Sometimes we used fiberglass mat and then Bondo, primer, spot putty ,primer and paint. I never used the screening or metal tape though. I get upset sometimes when I see overly equipped (sponsored) TV body shop guys criticizing old work like this. That was pretty much how it was done in a body shop then .Not many pre-made repair panels were available unless they were Jeep panels from JC Whitney (remember them?) and they usually rusted right out again.
No one cares
@@nd4120 who asked you?
@@nd4120you aint no rider. Take that profile pic off wannabe
Indeed no one does care only retards that choose bodywork as their career do.and that’s a small amount of people.
Done this many times on old vehicles, but with windscreen glue/sealant. That is some strong stuff. If you combine it with som stainless steel rivets, it will last longer than the rest of the car
Great suggestion!
As I was watching Eric doing this repair, I thought about revits. I don't have a welder, neither I know how to weld. However, I can rivet stuff. The only issue I can see with rivets is that it will squeeze out too much of the adhesive?
@@ruinunes8251 I used the seam sealer and rivets together and its fine, just dont forget to also drop some sealer over the rivets once its done, so they are covered as well and will not let rust through them.
@@Martinsix Noted. Thank you. 👍
My dad used to repair his truckbed sides that way. Rivet on some metal then seal and paint. Looked better than the rust.
Seam sealer is a great product. Years ago a body shop used it when replacing the lower half of the two quarter panels on my jeep. I'd never seen the stuff before. Today the fix is just as strong as the day it was done.
They were called Butchers or Hacks No kidding.
Body Man 35+ yrs
If you drill 1/8" holes around on your patch, the adhesive will
squeeze out, forming a "fastener" when it dries. Don't apply
too much, and don't clamp it so tight that the glue squeezes
out of the area.
This is a great repair, Eric! People don't realize just how much
of your car is simply "glued" together.
Adhesive doesn't change the metal's temper like welding does,
and adhesive will never rust.
Seem sealer and windshield sealant are godsends. Come in handy for stuff like this so often.
Very true
I used structural adhesive to repair a jeep Tj torque box after literally going airborne that thing didn't move at all.
Great tip!
That's a cool idea. Thanks for the suggestion.
I was gonna mention the 2part metal bond but you ended up taking care of that. I worked in a body shop when I was younger and they used it mostly on replacing the exterior body panels for pick up boxes. Was told at the time it was stronger than welding it because they didn’t have a spot welder to get the seams tight enough prevent rust.
Finally Eric, thank you!!! You kind of made my floorboard and rear quarter repair using 2mm aluminum and Sika252 legit! ('Sikaflex®-252 is an elastic 1-component polyurethane adhesive especially designed for bonding large components in vehicle assembly. It is suitable for bonding coated metal, GRP, ceramic materials and plastics.')
I grew up in the Canadian rust belt and my father and I ran an autobody repair shop together until I graduated from University. I often ran into rusted out areas where it wasn't possible, or feasible, to do any welding. If I had enough room to work, pop rivets worked quite well to attach a metal patch. I then ran the grinder over the area that needed to be roughed up and I covered the entire patch and surrounding area with fiberglass matting and resin. It was really solid and the metal and seams were covered so that they were protected from water and road salt. Often I would sandblast rust spots and small holes were left when the rust was removed. Next, I would grind the paint off around them, give then a once over with a coarse wire brush, tap them down just a little bit, and fill them with fiberglass reinforcing compound (looks like body filler with glass fibers). The repaired areas still looked great a few years later. Thanks for the video.
Thanks for that insight and info. I've also used 'Tiger Hair' for similar repairs, but I'm much more 'hack' with my methods. czcams.com/video/Kw5CNQJJkaA/video.html
Although it held up pretty good. czcams.com/video/r330NcWfWj0/video.html
This gives me confidence and inspiration to take on the rust that's eating my rear QPs on my 95 integra. I have tig welder but I don't trust my ability to weld yet. And the integra is just a daily so i dont care how it comes out. Thanks! I'll be doing this in the next few weeks!
how did it go?
I ended up rebuilding the bottom of the fender on the camry im trying to fix up. I used sheet metal thatvwas the same thickness as the fender, made my bends, shaped and formed it, and then rivited it on and painted it. I got that thing fitting so well that the panel gap from the fender to the door is pretty much perfect.
I got about halfway through the video before I realized the plasma cutter. You've called yourself out. Here's a thumbs up
I have a video of applying those Eastwood coatings to my Accord 6 years ago. It helped, but no miracles there. Everything I painted with that is completely rotted away now but it's still going. FYI, it's an upstate NY winter car.
What year accord if you don’t mind me asking? I’ve always thought Hondas were good with their rust inhibitors but I live in California so we don’t see much rust here anyways.
@@JamilThePimpLol It's a 1999 Accord EX 2dr. Honda cars around here have pattern rear wheel well rust coming through the paint around 12-15 years old.
Good to know. I was wondering how long it would hold up. Thanks for the comment.
LOL, our used Firepower FP18 plasma cutter was $150; our 175HD MIG welder was $400 + bottle. I cannot recommend a small, 120V, self-contained plasma cutter enough; you don't need 50A cutting and 240V power and a separate compressor.
More than "seam sealer", I recommend the 3M "panel bonding adhesive" for this kind of task.
I enjoy and learn from each and all of your videos and the comments, so I hope this helps.
I fixed the a hole in the in the fiberglass bed of my flareside f150 with a drywall patch. The “Hack” way isn’t always wrong.
Windshield glue is also great for this purpose 🙂
I had a Pontiac Fiero years ago. I had a passenger rear tire separate on the highway and it messed up the fiberglass body along with my tail light wires. I fixed it by using metal house A/C ducting, pop rivets and some white spray paint.
My brother and I are looking to touch up some cosmetic spots on our '67 Elco I'll keep this in mind if we get to a tough to reach spots! Thanks for sharing
A good tip I leaned Eric, is clamp a piece of angle iron 5/8 away from where you want to cut and hold your plasma torch against your angle iron and it makes it a whole lot easier and your lines are much smoother
Great tip, thank you!
My son has an 04 Pilot so I appreciate these videos 👍
Rockin' channel man, so many useful low cost alternatives and d0-it-yourself techniques to really help keep a car on the road longer. Thanks, one of my best subscriptions for sure.
i use washing machine casing for all metal jobs on car
That is something I never thought about. The issue is, my wife will not be happy when she finds a patch of metal missing on the side of the washing machine. Oh wait, I can use the back panel and she will never find out. Sorted. She may find the washing machine just a bit noisier. LOL
@@ruinunes8251wait till washer breaks
Eric, you just gave me the solution to cover some little holes on my maverick without having to take it to a welder who wants to charge like he's welding the whole car together.
🤘😎🤘
Hey Eric, really enjoying the work on this car. On a recent rust repair I used por15's epoxy putty for change. Similar to what you did, for cosmetic fixes. It makes it super easy to fill holes. I still used some body filler to smooth it out on top, but it was a nice change of pace for a rust repair. Might be something to look into!
Your screenshot for this vid made me laugh. It reminded me of my electrical clinic instructor at MMI. He was always fond of saying, NO WELDING in my classroom! 😂🤣😂
Love ur videos! Ur such a down to earth guy!! Ppl are fortunate to having u in their area. 👍👋🇺🇸
Now I've got to ask Project Farm whiich holds the patch in place better, seam sealer or JB Weld?
Just got done doing this on one of my vehicles. I’d suggest lord fusor 109b instead of seam sealer. It’s an OEM approved panel bonding. Expensive but worth it. I also used jb weld steelstik to fill bigger gaps. Super strong once it cures.
You can use a jigSaw, I´ve cutted lots of 16 gauge sheet metal with jigsaw
🤩👍 Great job. I do this to my 1987 Toyota camry some time ago. Very strong fix.
Thank you for your be knowledge, I appreciate you !! God bless you !!
Modern glues are actually strong.
That Pilot is getting more love than it probably deserves but I dig it. Nice work as always, and thanks for the tips!
I feel the same way, but I am having fun with it.
If you don't have or afford a plasma cutter, I would think that a angle grinder with a cutoff wheel would work just as well. I find it easier to keep a straight line with the wheel over snips.
Your idea is spot on.👍
Hey Eric, I'd love to see a series of videos of you fixing up a Honda Fit :)
I've used epoxy glue for repairs like yours also.
3M makes panel adhesives for structural and non-structural repairs to auto bodies. For something like a wheel arch panel, that would be ideal instead of welding.
Mentioned in the video and linked in the description. Thanks for the comment.
@@ericthecarguy especially useful when repair is near gas tank or filler neck. Thanks. Picked up 3m 8115 and gun. 2 part system can be sealed and saved for future repairs too.
@@ericthecarguy The structural part number is 07333. This one I have personally used on an E46 BMW rear subframe reinforcement. Many times it is stronger than welding because of the sheer amount of surface area joining the two components.
In the case of the rear corner mounting, one could make a surrounding U-shaped patch panel and epoxy it from the outside. There are also structural foams such as Fusor 130 to strengthen the hollow frame.
From my limited experience I think there are two important points to doing any rust repair. The first is remove all or as much rust as possible!! I have seen so much underlying rot from someone laying a patch over an improperly prepared patch section. Second use the right product the right way!! Use the proper paint to seal and reduce the rust from spreading, allow the paint to cure and use the right product to hold the materials together and then cover the bare metal with the proper paint or sealer. Otherwise you just hide the rust so it can spread unseen and cause even worse damage. Remember "Rust Never Sleeps"!
Thanks to you I have rebuilt my mini cooper s r56 engine 👊😁👊
Nice!
Thank you Eric for sharing your wonderful videos I am watching from South Africa
Thank YOU for watching and commenting.
Oh man, I think you just saved my Miata 😢.
Eric is all that is man!
One of my favorite movies. In the opening scene, they're driving my old car. They had me at "hello". czcams.com/video/_sdDPOEG5Q4/video.html
Funny enough there are actually OEM repair procedures that call for the 3M structural panel bond for things like frame rails. Combined with rivets or spot welds they're actually gluing cars together these days, crazy times.
that was my thought as well, why the seam sealer, when there is an actual body panel bond adhesive available. I think that stuff replaced a lot of welds in modern cars. I even heard those adhesive bonds are even stronger than actual welds in some applications.
@@alexanderkupke920 There’s a few types I’m aware of, 3M has one for structural parts and one for things like door skins and quarter panels.
The McLaren 675 is put together like that, just about every panel on the car is bonded.
Eric did mention it though so this was just one way to go about it. Even that seam sealer is stronger then you’d think.
Great tip and video! We get lots of rust up here in Canada. My Element needs some Eric the car guy type of love
They have two part panel bond a little pricier but incredibly strong and corrosion resistant qualities same concept grind 1/2 to 1” bare metal on replace piece outer edge and on project acid brush covering bare metal set overnight tuff as nails 👍🏻
Nice easy no weld repair good work looks good👍 @EricTheCarGuy
Cool. Never thought of that.
I love your shows!
New Zealand would learn alot from you...please come here one day..
This is what most in the rust belt (or anywhere with salt on the roads) call a shaddy repair. At best it's a fix for a car that's on it's last legs or a temporary fix.
It’s purely a cosmetic panel. That adhesive will hold longer than the rest of the car will last.
No, a shoddy repair would be putting this over the natural rust hole entirely untouched (like most shops will do if you ask for a weld repair) this is already much better than that
Hi Eric.. why didn't you put some of the rust encapsolator on the welded area on the rear suspension cross member. Raw weld will rust like crazy. Looks like it could use some protection. Job is coming along nicely!!
I did. It comes in spray as well as the can. Thanks for the comment.
Good video
you are the best .you know how to explain
Good stuff Eric!! I am looking forward to the supercharger being put on and seeing the gains in power! #SALUTE #HACKHAWK
That won't be happening until sometime next year.
Automotive urethane, the adhesive used to install windshields works well also.
I think that would work awesome.
Thank you for ideas 💡
The correct product is called panel bonding adhesive. Seam sealer is not panel bonding adhesive. Non structural panels are all glued on now. That said for that little piece it will work.
Linked in the description and also featured in the video. Sorry if I didn't call it out by it's correct name. As you can probably tell, I'm not an auto body tech. Thanks for the comment.
@@ericthecarguy No worries great vid as always. 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
Nice! When, at first, I saw that plasma cutter I was like "really!"
I had the same reaction. Sorry about that.
I love your videos learn a lot from you
Pretty handy info, Eric!
A really good helpful episode.thanks for that
Very useful!
Another product for panel bond is Evercoat Maxim Panel bond adhesive and it just use a regular caulking gun, just make sure to buy a quality caulking gun. You could even use JB WELD for small repairs. 👍
COOL..... Thanks Eric
Good tips and advice, thanks Eric.
Interesting concept there. Got me thinking about how to fix some rust damage on my 64. Even if the repair doesn’t work out properly I bet it can be easily removed by applying heat. Most adhesives give up the grip with heat so if that’s the case with this adhesive, which I’m confident it is, then this would be a very forgiving method of repair by a novice. Certainly mistakes involving welding are far more difficult to fix.
Top tips as always 👍
I may do this on my wheel arches on my truck. Can always grind it smooth and body filler over it
I've used E6000 to do the same thing. I figured if it's good enough for boats then it's good enough for my trunk lol
There are industrial versions of e6000 that come in caulk tube form like e6800, which is uv resistant. I haven’t personally tried them so I can’t vouch for their strength, but they do exist.
Goodjob idol
Thanks for that little follow up...hard to get at, non structural hidden places? fine...Overall, don't do it if you don't have to....It's really on the hokey side of the fence...imho...If you can weld, do. thank you ...
Hi Eric! Hope you have an amazing Friday ☺️
Good Friday 😊
Thank you! I hope you do too!
At 1:01 lol.... I like Eric!!!!
Cool Eric takes
Nice😎
Enjoyed
Use rubberized under coating let it dry and spray paint the under coating itself.
well this is an option, the rear quarter panel has been rusting out on my DA9 integra since about forever.
maybe I'll glue it in on the inside then use body filler to make up the rest of the outside... or the tried and true method of fiberglass. I might go with fiber glass, its pretty easy.
Yeah now days the repair shop industry follows the oem procedures which on most of the parts replaced the factory required to apply adhesive besides the weld spots or rivets to secure more effective the part to the rest of the body and sometimes they dont even required any of them just the adhesive so feel free to do what your logic tells you to do
I don't suggest tin snips for bending reasons. But if you have a way to flatten it back out...
well explained mate but i think its more of a 'get you by' rather than an actual repair maybe?
cheers.
I'd argue that it depends on your priorities, but yes, there are far better ways to perform repairs like this.
@@ericthecarguy ok cool. cheers.
Samcrac likes this video
What about a metal bonding agent to replace a door skin like you said it’s just cosmetic. I just don’t know if Water will be able to get in there easier than by welding. Thank you. I like your channel I just subbed.
Eric... How much seamsealer and metal plates before we encroach into the ship of Theseus?
If it's non-structural, then why the need to use sheet steel? Super gluing some plastic sheet in there should be better, because it will never rust again.
I suppose you could use plastic too, but in this particular case, there were still gaps between the patch and the metal that were filled in by using the sealer. I don't think super glue would be able to do that. Thanks for the comment.
Also use Fluid Film!
Great idea 💡
useful info, thanks!
Wow 🤩
This is great !!!!
sweet
HEY ETCG,Thx for the informative videos ..Dont know how often you monitor the comments .Have a l little question.Iam going to be attacking a few projects want to know in which sequence should I do the. LCAs,Tie rids,and axel replacement ..thx for your input... Keep up the good work
Notification squad!👍🏻
or use pl i have used that works great
You could of also done Rivets since rivet hand guns fit in tight spaces @EricTheCarGuy
How would I get a drill up into that area? Also, even without a rivets, this is held firm and isn't going anywhere. Thanks for the comments.
@@ericthecarguy the side you removed the plastic vent and you can get stubby drill bits and a right angle compact drill
Tack!
Holy crap! Thank you very much!
@@ericthecarguy I have followed your videos here for many years now and found this feature to show some of my support. Just a few bucks but it might add up I more followed my example. You deserve it! Keep up the good work!
Beautiful beard style
Happy with this info, however a bit disappointed that it is not critical content related to your "projects". Was hoping for something more substantial since you only put videos out on Fridays. But I understand things don't always go as planned and in the environment we are dealing with now, anything is better than nothing. Good video
This Pilot IS the project I've been working on. czcams.com/video/11nl6FCkr-s/video.html
Sorry this video is short but, I never intended on having to rebuild the entire rear suspension and body on this vehicle. That took up a bunch of time. It also created a lot of footage, about 10 hours be be precise. You can't edit that much footage in a 'timely' fashion. Therefore, I put out this short video while I work through the monster edit of the suspension rebuild.
I guess my point is that there is a much bigger picture that the viewer doesn't see. It takes a lot of time and effort to create this content every week. Keep in mind that I also have another channel that I post weekly to and I produce content for Premium Members of my website as well. It's a lot of work to say the least. I'm not complaining, just trying to give you some insight into my process. Thanks for the comment.
رغم اني لا أجيد اللغة الاجليزية شرحك جميل جدااا ووااضخ شكرا 🎉لك 🎉 لديا سؤال؟ عندي سيارة من نوع مازدا ذات علبة سرعة اوتوماتيك.نزعت العلبة سرعة وجدت تهريب الزيت وعند تصليح وبعد تركيب علبة السرعة المحرك لا يدور وعند فتح براغي علبة السرعة قليلا المحرك يدور.اين المشكل
if that patch is just to keep water out could you cover it with plastic?
Butyl caulk, would be good for this job
Nice job Sir, i have problem with my sunroof leaking in 2016 CRV i wish if you had time to do information video how to fix leaked rubber weather strip.. thank you
Here you go. czcams.com/video/tecuW9cB-Xk/video.html
good tips. also, jb-weld would work.
Probably, but expensive for the amount you would need for something like this.