using Pythagoras theorem is the best way to do it. Use 3 pieces of tape each with an X. Use a pointed bit in the collet. Move the CNC back to the rear left. Put a the tape with the X directly under the point. Then move the CNC X distance towards the front, put tape there. And finally move it X distance to the right and put tape there. Then measure the distance from point a to c. You'll need to figure out what units you want to use but lets say you were using 1 unit per 200mm A = 0 B = 800mm from 0 C = 600mm from B Then the distance from A to C should be 1000mm, if its less then you need to bright the right side forward if its more you need to push the right side back.
Did you check your carpenter's square for squareness? It's not uncommon for those to be a 64th or 32nd of an inch out of square along the length. A 3/4/5 triangle test would seem to be more reliable. Set the home at say 100mm on your straightedge (your Woodpeckers are most likely straight) and set the x & y to 0 using the point of your v-bit to just touch the 100mm mark. Then do a G0 Y300 and see if the tip of the bit is aligned with the 400mm mark (100+300). Then enter G0 X400 ang jog the Z until you make a point mark on the spoil board. Then measure between that point and the100mm mark on your straightedge. If it is 500mm it's square. You could also use the 7/24/25 triple but using inches. That would be more accurate as you'd be using more of the bed size.
Hi Jim - thanks for watching and the additional suggestions. I will give that a try and see where the machine ended up (though wouldn't you want to jog x 500 if 100 is really zero?). I did not check the square, but I do have my doubts as I mentioned in the video (or at least one of the various takes). I thought about the 3-4-5 method but thought that might be a little hard to explain in the video without a lot of graphics -- I'm looking for a good graphics package to up my game, so if anyone has suggestions I'm interested.
@@cyberreefguru The X will be 400 since that's not being tracked against a straightedge like the Y. The 0,0 is at 100mm on the straightedge so you do add 300 to the 100 to get to where the Y should land on the straightedge when you go to Y300. But the X isn't being referenced to a straightedge (like it is when using a carpenter's square). The X and the diagonal are just math points to verify the lengths. If the diagonal measures wrong then it's not square. Definitely would want to actually do it on video - like you said it's hard to just explain.
Thanks for your video and all the hard work to make these. Your succinct and straight to the point approach is excellent. This is a very useful video and is thought provoking. Thanks for the insights on the QCW frame! I have one on order along with my Journeyman. Two cautions for others: 1. A framing square is notoriously inaccurate. Be sure and check yours before you use it. Mine is not square enough and would produce an unacceptable error using it for this. 2. I would confirm the length of the two Y frame assemblies. Are they exactly the same? Any difference between the two Y rails affects the "carpenters technique" using the tape measure.
Thanks for that vid - I assumed mine was square after doing a "by the book" install, WRONG 1/4 off i found out when i made a corner bracket and checked it for square and it wasn't. i will be using the straight edge method to remedy that and then rerun the l bracket to verify , Thanks again
Glad it help you Scott - you can also use the 3-4-5 triangle approach - it might be easier if you don't have a larger square. I'm going to try it too. Thanks for watching!
When calibrating the travel distance and adjusting the motor travel-per-rev value until the machine moves the precise command value (example: 30 inches in the x direction after adjusting motor 0). My question is …. do I need to change both motor 1 and motor 2 (both y direction motors) when calibrating the y travel distance or just motor 1? If I should adjust both motor travel per rev I assume they would be the same value? Your videos are great and helpful btw
Hi John - you should adjust both and re-test. It is possible only one is out of sync and you will have to balance the two with the settings. Thanks for watching and thanks for the kudos!
I'm curious what the tape measure read, after squaring it with straight edge & square. Would be comical if you got same measurements prior to tweaking it all on both methods.
Hi Teague - I was curious as well, so I checked. Interestingly, I got 59 3/16 on both sides. I'm guessing it was closer to 59 1/8", but within the accuracy of my eyes and my 20 yo tape measure. Thanks for watching and commenting!
You said you unscrewed your bolts holding the feet down, but if I remember correctly, mine are screws. Unless I move everything, do you have any suggestions so I don’t just go back into the same (out of square) holes?
Hi there! There are bolts holding the X gantry to the Y gantry and then screws holding the feet to the waste board -- you can adjust both, but I probably misspoke and should have said screws. Regardless, I would adjust the entire machine so you don't reuse the same holes if your adjustments are so great they can't be accomplished within the tolerances of the holes in the feet. Some times you just need move small amounts, so loosening the screws, moving the feet and retightening is good enough. Hope this helps!
@@thomassasala: Oh, thanks for clarifying. I didn’t even think about adjusting the bolts holding X into Y. I’m pretty sure I’ll start again, moving the feet back the inch or so between the existing holes.
I wish you had made a video of actually squaring the machine instead of just talking about it. Some of us rookies are visual learners. hahah. Nevertheless great content and thank you for sharing.
Hi Kamran - I do have plenty of video of the squaring process - however, poor camera placement led to more shots of my back or butt than the machine, so I had to throw all of it out. Happy to answer any questions you might have. Thanks for watching!
but how check square to beam true ewery time when go to home point. linuxcnc and paraller port cheap controller and how add dual Y axis, mach all this not can do but linux can i understand. maybe need dual paraller port can add more input and output pins, and linuxcnc hall code (i not understand code anythink) go to home SW 1 first rail,then wait SW second rail stop too.and then have zero. but i not can do this i not understand how code this. code need when rail 1 have zero then wait rail 2 zero or rail 2 zero need wait rail 1 zero, need 2 limit SW to rail top.both side one. and 2 relay, arduino can made code sense when beam rail block have true same point both side. and then both rails have same point send to cnc ok, have zeroing.
@@cyberreefguru hi, sorry my bad english, i mean, my cnc have dual Y axis motors, if one motor lost step how i sguare 2 motor run home and first motor stop to homeSW then need second motor run and stop to homeSW. i not understand code lot because i think both motor stop if first motor stop to homeSW, need secon motor not stop and run own homeSW too. both motor own homing, when home have both motor stop then have Y axis sure sguare again. this if one motor lost step, many other problem have too dual motor but thats i think how make.
thanks to video, old style but if ant do come square. we made in factory were we build automation sheet metal stamp machines, big hiwin rails first one rail totally traight to table, then second rail but not tight, and measure 0,0001mm clock second rail have traight too. we add first rail linear block and then screwed this block bar, were have measure clock and measure second rail sure traight then we have 2 rail and totally same line. then installing beam and measure 90 degree beam have sure square. and add spindle measure clock and meausere have beam same line than table all come inside 0,0001 mm side this is perfect, wood worker not need this accurate have very good if have inside 0,01 mm then can working good woodwork.
using Pythagoras theorem is the best way to do it.
Use 3 pieces of tape each with an X. Use a pointed bit in the collet. Move the CNC back to the rear left. Put a the tape with the X directly under the point. Then move the CNC X distance towards the front, put tape there. And finally move it X distance to the right and put tape there. Then measure the distance from point a to c.
You'll need to figure out what units you want to use but lets say you were using 1 unit per 200mm
A = 0
B = 800mm from 0
C = 600mm from B
Then the distance from A to C should be 1000mm, if its less then you need to bright the right side forward if its more you need to push the right side back.
Did you check your carpenter's square for squareness? It's not uncommon for those to be a 64th or 32nd of an inch out of square along the length.
A 3/4/5 triangle test would seem to be more reliable. Set the home at say 100mm on your straightedge (your Woodpeckers are most likely straight) and set the x & y to 0 using the point of your v-bit to just touch the 100mm mark. Then do a G0 Y300 and see if the tip of the bit is aligned with the 400mm mark (100+300). Then enter G0 X400 ang jog the Z until you make a point mark on the spoil board. Then measure between that point and the100mm mark on your straightedge. If it is 500mm it's square.
You could also use the 7/24/25 triple but using inches. That would be more accurate as you'd be using more of the bed size.
Hi Jim - thanks for watching and the additional suggestions. I will give that a try and see where the machine ended up (though wouldn't you want to jog x 500 if 100 is really zero?). I did not check the square, but I do have my doubts as I mentioned in the video (or at least one of the various takes). I thought about the 3-4-5 method but thought that might be a little hard to explain in the video without a lot of graphics -- I'm looking for a good graphics package to up my game, so if anyone has suggestions I'm interested.
@@cyberreefguru The X will be 400 since that's not being tracked against a straightedge like the Y. The 0,0 is at 100mm on the straightedge so you do add 300 to the 100 to get to where the Y should land on the straightedge when you go to Y300. But the X isn't being referenced to a straightedge (like it is when using a carpenter's square). The X and the diagonal are just math points to verify the lengths. If the diagonal measures wrong then it's not square. Definitely would want to actually do it on video - like you said it's hard to just explain.
@@jimhatch5873 Ah, thanks much!
Enjoyed the video. I have the same router on my CNC machine.
Thanks - glad it helped. Thanks for watching!
Thanks for your video and all the hard work to make these. Your succinct and straight to the point approach is excellent. This is a very useful video and is thought provoking. Thanks for the insights on the QCW frame! I have one on order along with my Journeyman.
Two cautions for others:
1. A framing square is notoriously inaccurate. Be sure and check yours before you use it. Mine is not square enough and would produce an unacceptable error using it for this.
2. I would confirm the length of the two Y frame assemblies. Are they exactly the same? Any difference between the two Y rails affects the "carpenters technique" using the tape measure.
Thanks Alan - great suggestions!
Thanks for that vid - I assumed mine was square after doing a "by the book" install, WRONG 1/4 off
i found out when i made a corner bracket and checked it for square and it wasn't. i will be using the straight edge method to remedy that and then rerun the l bracket to verify , Thanks again
Glad it help you Scott - you can also use the 3-4-5 triangle approach - it might be easier if you don't have a larger square. I'm going to try it too. Thanks for watching!
@@cyberreefguru squared it up with a drywall square and 4ft level for straight edge , thing of beauty.results are bang on
When calibrating the travel distance and adjusting the motor travel-per-rev value until the machine moves the precise command value (example: 30 inches in the x direction after adjusting motor 0).
My question is …. do I need to change both motor 1 and motor 2 (both y direction motors) when calibrating the y travel distance or just motor 1? If I should adjust both motor travel per rev I assume they would be the same value?
Your videos are great and helpful btw
Hi John - you should adjust both and re-test. It is possible only one is out of sync and you will have to balance the two with the settings. Thanks for watching and thanks for the kudos!
I'm curious what the tape measure read, after squaring it with straight edge & square. Would be comical if you got same measurements prior to tweaking it all on both methods.
Hi Teague - I was curious as well, so I checked. Interestingly, I got 59 3/16 on both sides. I'm guessing it was closer to 59 1/8", but within the accuracy of my eyes and my 20 yo tape measure. Thanks for watching and commenting!
You said you unscrewed your bolts holding the feet down, but if I remember correctly, mine are screws. Unless I move everything, do you have any suggestions so I don’t just go back into the same (out of square) holes?
Hi there! There are bolts holding the X gantry to the Y gantry and then screws holding the feet to the waste board -- you can adjust both, but I probably misspoke and should have said screws. Regardless, I would adjust the entire machine so you don't reuse the same holes if your adjustments are so great they can't be accomplished within the tolerances of the holes in the feet. Some times you just need move small amounts, so loosening the screws, moving the feet and retightening is good enough. Hope this helps!
@@thomassasala: Oh, thanks for clarifying. I didn’t even think about adjusting the bolts holding X into Y. I’m pretty sure I’ll start again, moving the feet back the inch or so between the existing holes.
Solid plan! Good luck!
I wish you had made a video of actually squaring the machine instead of just talking about it. Some of us rookies are visual learners. hahah. Nevertheless great content and thank you for sharing.
Hi Kamran - I do have plenty of video of the squaring process - however, poor camera placement led to more shots of my back or butt than the machine, so I had to throw all of it out. Happy to answer any questions you might have. Thanks for watching!
but how check square to beam true ewery time when go to home point. linuxcnc and paraller port cheap controller and how add dual Y axis, mach all this not can do but linux can i understand. maybe need dual paraller port can add more input and output pins, and linuxcnc hall code (i not understand code anythink) go to home SW 1 first rail,then wait SW second rail stop too.and then have zero. but i not can do this i not understand how code this. code need when rail 1 have zero then wait rail 2 zero or rail 2 zero need wait rail 1 zero, need 2 limit SW to rail top.both side one. and 2 relay, arduino can made code sense when beam rail block have true same point both side. and then both rails have same point send to cnc ok, have zeroing.
Hi there - I'm not sure I undestand the question. I don't get the relationship of the controller to the 'squareness' of the machine.
@@cyberreefguru hi, sorry my bad english, i mean, my cnc have dual Y axis motors, if one motor lost step how i sguare 2 motor run home and first motor stop to homeSW then need second motor run and stop to homeSW. i not understand code lot because i think both motor stop if first motor stop to homeSW, need secon motor not stop and run own homeSW too. both motor own homing, when home have both motor stop then have Y axis sure sguare again. this if one motor lost step, many other problem have too dual motor but thats i think how make.
thanks to video, old style but if ant do come square. we made in factory were we build automation sheet metal stamp machines, big hiwin rails first one rail totally traight to table, then second rail but not tight, and measure 0,0001mm clock second rail have traight too. we add first rail linear block and then screwed this block bar, were have measure clock and measure second rail sure traight then we have 2 rail and totally same line. then installing beam and measure 90 degree beam have sure square. and add spindle measure clock and meausere have beam same line than table all come inside 0,0001 mm side this is perfect, wood worker not need this accurate have very good if have inside 0,01 mm then can working good woodwork.
Thanks for the suggestion and watching!
If you don't like the video like it anyway :D
😬 😆
love the shirt.
First
Thanks - it's one of my favorites!