Retired now but thru 45 yrs working on vehicles never got under the hood to do much on diesels. Usually requires more heavy duty tools and already paid snap on enough ( lol) . I have used that method when needed on gas engines with success and luckily no issues. The reason I watch some duramax water pump video’s is an old customer wants me to replace his water pump. I know I don’t have that 36 mm 12 point
This did nothing for me. I have fought with this for about 2 weeks now. I have broken multiple tools and it is still tight. I have done everything I could do to get the bolt out. I have also watched multiple videos on this procedure. I have been working on vehicles for about 35 years now and I have never had any problems with a pully bolt. Glad you could get your bolt out.
I’ve been doing this for 20 years. It’s a great trick that can however come with its setbacks. I’ve been lucky all these years and never had a problem. I always load the breaker bar on the frame.
Guys, my buddy pointed out that I probably should have filmed while actually doing that. It didn't occur to me until after the fact. I promise, it was as easy as I described. You will still need to lock the fly wheel to put it back on though!
It works most of the time,, ,, might have wanted to add disable the engine so it can't start and ya know the whole disclaimer for snaped cranks and injury lol ,,,,,,,
Yeah, at your own risk I guess! At the end of the day you're just bumping the key, the crank might make one or two full rotations. I guess when I thought about it, I was willing to replace my radiator.
You still have to lock the flex plate to tighten it. A lisle tool is the preferred method. There are ways to jam extensions into the torque converter bolt recesses but that involves putting dangerous amounts of stress on the bell housing, which is a little more fragile than it should be.
The Lisle tool is cheap, they also have a kit with the tool and socket. This, to me, is a desperation move, not a cheap and lazy solution. Dropping the starter and inserting an extension is the way the manual suggests. WAY too many things can go wrong with this, but y’all do whatever. ( hold my beer)…
This worked PERFECTLY!! It actually lifted the front of my truck, bent my brand new Kobalt breaker bar and then came loose!! Thank you!!!
Sorry to hear about your breaker bar!
Retired now but thru 45 yrs working on vehicles never got under the hood to do much on diesels. Usually requires more heavy duty tools and already paid snap on enough ( lol) . I have used that method when needed on gas engines with success and luckily no issues. The reason I watch some duramax water pump video’s is an old customer wants me to replace his water pump. I know I don’t have that 36 mm 12 point
This did nothing for me. I have fought with this for about 2 weeks now. I have broken multiple tools and it is still tight. I have done everything I could do to get the bolt out. I have also watched multiple videos on this procedure. I have been working on vehicles for about 35 years now and I have never had any problems with a pully bolt. Glad you could get your bolt out.
I’ve been doing this for 20 years. It’s a great trick that can however come with its setbacks. I’ve been lucky all these years and never had a problem. I always load the breaker bar on the frame.
Thanks, good point....still sketchy. How do you hold the crank when tightening?
We don’t. We hold the harmonic balancer while re-tightening. Re-torquing is 10 times easier than initial removal.
Guys, my buddy pointed out that I probably should have filmed while actually doing that. It didn't occur to me until after the fact. I promise, it was as easy as I described. You will still need to lock the fly wheel to put it back on though!
This worker for me with a 24 in breaker bar on my 6.6 duramax heat the bolt and then send it worked like a charm will never do it another way
Appreciate the video , found your comment under a different video and stalked your page 😆
Thanks for posting this! Could I add a link to this video in my Water Pump Replacement video description? Would you mind?
MudRFunR no sir, I don't mind at all. I hope it's helpful.
It works most of the time,, ,, might have wanted to add disable the engine so it can't start and ya know the whole disclaimer for snaped cranks and injury lol ,,,,,,,
How do tighten back to 250 FP of torque?
Nice, how do you tighten it to spec?
Lol I am guessing 5 or 6 ugga duggas with the ole air impact. Bwaahahaha I highly doubt it got a torque wrench on it. Lol
can we turn the key the other way to tighten it back up
😂
Now how do to tighten it back up to the correct torque?
I still had to lock the flywheel. This was just a quick work around until I could get my hands on a Lisle tool
You can also remove the starter and access from there
Strip boom shit !!!!
Still giving it a like just to scared to try it myself
Yeah, at your own risk I guess! At the end of the day you're just bumping the key, the crank might make one or two full rotations. I guess when I thought about it, I was willing to replace my radiator.
How do you tighten it back up
You still have to lock the flex plate to tighten it. A lisle tool is the preferred method. There are ways to jam extensions into the torque converter bolt recesses but that involves putting dangerous amounts of stress on the bell housing, which is a little more fragile than it should be.
I put mine in 6th gear and pulled it, no tool needed with a ZF6.
The Lisle tool is cheap, they also have a kit with the tool and socket. This, to me, is a desperation move, not a cheap and lazy solution. Dropping the starter and inserting an extension is the way the manual suggests.
WAY too many things can go wrong with this, but y’all do whatever. ( hold my beer)…
*Bolt