How To: Use Bare-Metal Foil!
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- čas přidán 12. 09. 2019
- Here are some tips and tricks I use when applying Bare-Metal Foil!
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Your black marker on the blade is a game changer! Huge thanks for the tip.
Thank you!
Thanks for the demo. I kind of knew how it worked, but to see it done is a real help. That foil really does look great. I really admire your work, your cars are beautiful.
Thank you. Glad it was helpful!
Trimming with the blade on an angle to keep the blade from walking is the key statement...great advice
Thank you!
I'm glad I found your videos. I'm 56 years old, I've been building since 1975 and I pick up so many tips from you that I never thought of. I can foil okay but it's usually a few hours, way slower than you can do it. I usually end up bug eyed for awhile after doing this. I like the toothpick to loosen the foil. I always used the knife and kinda picked at it lightly. The toothpick is a simple smart idea that I never thought of. I just did my first airbrush job on a challenger after watching your painting video and it came out decent for a first attempt. Been using rattlecans since the 70s and never knew how awesome the airbrush is. Tip of advice for a newbie, do not spray lacquer in your basement during the winter. 90% of my building and painting are done in the early am hours and my wife got out of bed pretty unhappy with me!
Thank you! I'm glad you are finding good use of my channel.
I feel your pain, I too have been banned from the climate control of my model room when I paint, to my garage 😢 ( but I did successfully negotiate that hand painting can be done indoors )
Great work my friend. I've been modeling for 60+ years and I am impressed with your skills. Keep up the good work. GBAH
Wow, Thank You! Raoul.
Looks like I'm a little late to the game commenting - Great tutorial, covered everything you need to know about foiling. Comments - 1. Hand holding model, I use a white cotton inspection glove. Limits the amount of skin oil to the surface of the model, which could/can eventually harm some clear coat and color coats causing them to go soft and come off on bare skin. 2. In addition to the Qtip, cotton balls are excellent for all around burnishing. Final burnish is with a white cotton T shirt rag it presses the edges in completely. Also you can readily see if it picked up any foil, paint etc. I'm another Modeler who started in the 60's. never too experienced to learn something new!
Never to late! Thanks for the tips. I have seen those gloves but have not tried them.
I, too, use a glove!, thought was being too anal retentive
Another great video. I've been binge watching your videos since finding you channel. This had helped me so much to understand where I was making my mistakes. I still have to improve my abilities but at least you have made me understand better techniques. I really enjoy your pleasant demeanor too. Thanks
Thanks. I’m glad they are useful for you!
Great video. Thanks for sharing your knowledge and experience.
My pleasure! Thank you!
Being a 60 year model builder I found that while bare metal looks great it does not stand the test of time It becomes brittle and shrinks over long periods and wants to peel away when buffing an old model .Taking the time to mask off the models complete trim and lightly spraying on silver paint is better and will not leave even the slightest wrinkle. Just my opinion
Thanks. I have not experienced that and some of mine have been cleaned up and polished for a video. Some builds are over 20 years old.
Great how to and the finished product looks great. Cheers
Thanks again! Raoul.
Time consuming, but to me, one of the most realistic details done to a model! Looks so awesome!! About to try it for the first time. Thank you for this video. I truly appreciate it. How do you do your emblems on the body? So detailed!!
Thanks! I have done the emblems two different ways. I have foiled them under the paint and polished the paint till the foil shows. On others I have just put the foil on top after painting and carefully cut the foil as close as I can to the emblem.
Interesting take on one of the most frustrating (for me ) aspects of modeling, gonna give it a shot
Thanks. It can be frustrating and sometimes I just have to walk away to do it another day. Or just work on something else which is what I usually end up doing.
Nice how to on the bare metal foil, well done!....Bill
Thank You!. Raoul.
Thank you for this excellent tutorial. Will be referring for my second attempt at this. First one was a disaster.
It takes a while and it seems this stuff is getting harder to use.
wow that came out really nice,great info and video
Thank You!
@@TheMuscleCarModeler your very welcome
What a really confidence inspiring video!
I’ve put off using this for years, bought some BMF on a spur and never used it through fear.
Guess what I’m doing tomorrow though!
Thank you! Don't beat your self up. My first few foil jobs were not that great!
@@TheMuscleCarModeler thanks for replying 👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼
Great video, lots of good information and tips. Have you ever tried using the tamiya triangular craft cotton swabs? My local hobby lobby carries them. They come in 3 sizes, extra small, small, and medium and are pointed on the ends, making it easier to burnish down the bmf. They come 50 per pack. These are slightly stiffer than regular q-tips and they don't fray like a q-tip does. So no more fuzzies stuck in the adhesive of the bmf. Give them a try. Great video!
Thanks! I have not but I buy the Q tips at costco.
Craft cotton swabs are the way to go. You can really press on the foil and get a deep burnished look without tearing the foil.
very good video you put out . now if I can do the same without pushing too hard and jumping off my path .
Thanks. A sharp razor and a gentle touch go a long way.
Found ur video on a group. Subscribed
Thank you! Hope you enjoy my channel!
Gorgeous '71 Torino
Thank you!
great how too thanks for sharing I sub to you a well ago
Thanks John! Raoul
Hey, great video & I loooovvvve the tip by using the Sharpie marker along the blade tip. I'm curious though, would you recommend putting decals on before or after you foil? I do see that you applied some side stripes & rear quarter decals before you foiled the Torino.I have a 70' Firebird & I have to apply the wide stripe across the front hood area, etc. I'm not quite sure if foiling is smarter to do before or after applying the decals........any thoughts would be appreciated, thanks.
Thank You! I prefer to put the decals on first and spray the clear coat over them. I'll foil after the clear coat. If you don't clear them then put the foil on first. The foil can lift the decal if put on top of it. But if you put the decal over the foil the decal will trim real easy and slide off the foil.
Nice Torino Twister !. I do use foil but sparingly....it's really not my favourite thing to use lol, I tend to use it in combination with the Molotow liquid chrome.
Doing body side mouldings are the biggest headache for me, I'm not good with the blade.
Good vid though, shows a lot of people that you don't have to be afraid of the stuff !
Thanks! This was a long one and I was not sure about doing it. Just put it out their and if it helps someone, I will be happy with that! Raoul
@@TheMuscleCarModeler Somebody someday will type in how to bare metal foil, and they'll get some great info from it, these vids always go down well.
@@MrModelworx it’s exactly what I did tonight 👍🏼
I have no issues using chrome paint and that also results in less cursing than using this foil stuff. Both look great and you did a fantastic job with it. Paint is faster for me and the results when done correctly are impossible to distinguish.
I'm used to the foil but I have used the Molotow pens for hard to reach areas! It's good stuff but not as durable as the foil. We didn't have a good chrome paint until recently!
@@TheMuscleCarModeler Very True. A new method but really involved I have discovered is to mask off the trim and use the Alclad Chrome method, the results are superb but it's a very time consuming method. I have begun to use the Foil much more lately but Molotow is easiest but lower quality than the other 2 methods. Love your channel!
I've used Molotow chrome and usually it comes out a glorified silver- any tips?
@@robertmann7277 That's pretty much what Chrome is, a glorified Silver ;). Alclad and now there's newer brands works and looks amazing but requires lot's of taping off and special clear to protect it. Foil is pretty much the quickest method for trim pieces, everything else like bumpers and grilles can be stripped off then redone with Alclad or AW chromes then cleared with their brand as well then glued on.
Great video, and excellent work doing the Bare Metal Foil. The only problem I had with the video, was the glare from the model caused by the lighting, which made it hard to see where the foil and the paint job meet, other than that, like I said great video! Thanks!
Thanks! lighting is a big problem and I'm still working on it.
@@TheMuscleCarModeler I am glad to see that you are aware of the lighting problem when doing your Bare Metal Foil! I have a suggestion you might want to try if you are doing the video as an instructional video...........try using the body of a car that has been painted flat black with no clear coat on it! It might make your video easier to see! Good luck with your future videos, and keep up the good work!
Beautiful brother
Thanks! Raoul.
Im doing my 1st wheel well chrome trim...68 Dart GTS...for doing circular BMF is it best to do it in 3 pieces?as i was getting wrinkles as 1 piece
Thanks so much for your great videos& tutorials...very appreciated.
I like to do them in multiple pieces. Usually 3-5 peices but lay them all down before you trim. That way you get a nice line. It has been hard to get the foil to stick lately and sometimes a small piece will slide off. That is when doing it as a one piece is better but wrinkles are the problem then as you have found out. Thank you!
@@TheMuscleCarModeler T.Y
Maybe I missed this, but how do you do a long running board with 5 peaks and 4 valleys (on the bottom of the car between the two wheels)? One large piece of BMF or several?
Allessio777 usually I do it as one long piece.
Gr8 vid mate. I seen vid where a guy used white glue and aluminium foil cheers Graham
Cool, thanks. I have seen that done. I have glue that is meant for that.
@@TheMuscleCarModeler so there is glue for it, giy just used wood glue. I new to ur channel. I saw one of ur vids of moulding small parts. I seen another vid where u were cleaning paint off a body and u said u knew it m are from resin. Do u make mould for the whole body and if so do u have video about doing it , cheers Graham
I have done a few whole body molds but not in a long time and that was before I started this channel.
Did you round the tooth pic tip to remove the sharp point?
Thanks
No, Just use light pressure to push the foil in. It can tear the foil and sometimes when that happens I just start over with a new piece.
Just curious do you trim the excess foil off on the inside of the car after folding over the foil?
I do a little. I let some overlap and don't trim to the edge, but I do trim the excess.
How would you do fine script, letters and badges?
I usually just trim them as close as I can with the exacto knife.
What about the lines? I see others doing it in a big section which looks more difficult. How do you get rid of overlapping lines?
I can't but do my best to minimize them. Around the windows I put them in the corners like most real cars do. Then burnish them down some.
I'm a beginner on all of this, so should I paint the car first then put the foil on it and then apply the clear coat on it?
You can do it that way or after clear. There is no correct way on that.
How do you take off the residue of the foil glue?
I use a Q Tip to remove the extra glue.
Hi there! I have a question: it's better apply the foil before or after the clear coat (gloss varnish)?
No true answer to that question. You can do it either way. I like to foil after clear but you may have to polish it up years later as it will dull. You can install before clear but now you need to make sure all the glue residue is removed and sometimes the foil is polished up and the clear will fish eye on it.
Sometimes clearing over the foil will make it look like regular chrome paint!
Is there any possible way to foil body badges?
Yes. I have done it a few times and a few different ways.
@@TheMuscleCarModelerI'm lost.Dry brushing doesn't work for me at all then I tried bare metal foil under the paint it got real messy.
It takes some practice. I messed up a few before I started to get it. I have not had much luck dry brushing emblems.
Do you clear coat over it ?
I prefer not to but I have.
@@TheMuscleCarModeler OK thanks..great learning video.I'm about to order some.
Also it looks like you don't have as much waste
The way I do it, you will have more seams but less waste.
In the 40 years I have used BMF, They recently changed it! It has a thick plastic coating which makes it thicker and harder to use. It also pulls (Shrinks) When pushed around tight corners! It kills new Exacto blades in about 5 cuts. The new improved Chrome is now crap...Ultra Bright Chrome is even crappier! I used to do awesome work with the old thinner product. Now it is Garbage!
I'm having a lot more problems with the last two sheets that I have bought.
@@TheMuscleCarModeler You nee to write BMF and tell them…. I did!
See if the cheap .99 cent store stuff works for you
Video is very explanatory but your hand was in the way a lot. :(
It is hard to film this stuff sometimes.