Misfire/Hesitation Issue (New Vehicle Speed Sensor) | 1995 Chevy C1500
Vložit
- čas přidán 28. 06. 2021
- Video Copyright: Nick Connors
My GAMING channel: / @nickconnors3323
Check out willis: / @louisjames2654
Make sure to subscribe if you haven’t, and leave a LIKE.
-Find Me-
Twitter: @Nickman1847
Instagram: @nickman1847
Truck issues:
What happens is after 2-5 minutes of driving, my truck starts to miss very bad at 1500-2000 RPM, to the point the truck has the slightest buck around 45 MPH when cruising at those RPM. It also wants to stumble and die off of the start at a stop sign. It dies for 1/2 second then revs up and goes on the way with good power. Absolutely stumped, here is the list of new parts:
-Battery only 10 months old
-TPS
-O2 sensor
-Map sensor
-Plugs
-Wires
-The entire distributor, cap, rotor shaft. Pickup coil
-Ignition module
-Ignition coil
-ECM (original PROM) chip
-TBI unit serviced and cleaned very recently
-New fuel injectors
-Coolant temp sensor was changed a few months ago
-Freshly timed
-Headgasket job was just done, good compression, new valves/lifters
-No vacuum leaks to my knowledge (sprayed carb cleaner around all ports and gaskets)
-EGR was replaced a few months ago
-Test if transmission (put in neutral had the same issues)
-Fuel pump sounds strong, haven’t tested pressure (has good power, just misses at 1500-2k RPM and stumbles off the line)
-Fuel filter changed in last November
-Did test knock sensor appears to be working
Camera Link: shop.usa.canon.com/shop/en/ca...
Light Link: www.amazon.com/Linkstar-Ultra...
My FAVORITE LENS: www.sigmaphoto.com/18-35mm-f1...
Variable ND Filter: www.amazon.com/Concept-ND2-ND...
Mavic MINI: store.dji.com/product/mavic-m...
Music used:
Song: MusicbyAden - Aural Nights
Music provided by Vlog No Copyright Music.
Creative Commons - Attribution-ShareAlike 3.0 Unported
Video Link: • MusicbyAden - Aural Ni...
These trucks are a mystery
WOW gave you thumbs down at first till i read comments and saw how many people didn’t know what they we’re talking about and stuck their 2 cents in wtf and you politely responded to them good job bro keep up the good work
Thanks bro-really informative.
Throttle body O-rings was an issue with mine. Injectors etc. seal kit
have same truck a 96 light green 1500. mostly have and still have electrical issues. new ignition switch seemed to fix alot of goofy problems. like with the cluster. mine would get up to like 60 and then lose power.
One thing I’ve noticed is that if the cluster like the mph or the rpm are not spot on or is lagging like slower then the speed your going it causes problem with shifting and will cause it to hesitate
Good to know! My speedometer has always been too fast I’ve noticed. I did end up carburetor swapping the truck and it fixed all my issues. Thank you for the info!
@@nickconnors8515where did you get your part?
@@kyliedailey-nv7ly I believe I got this piece from my local autozone.
Replace Idle air Control valve. Also probably not your problem but something to be aware of, as these trucks age. The harmonic balancer or front engine pulley has a rubber damper sandwhiched in between the balancer and the pulley for the drive belt. The rubber dries up and cracks and the balancer spins taking the timing marks with it. When you set the timing it looks like its set but its not. Very hard to diagnoise this problem because of the wide range of sysptoms it causes. Just something to keep in mind and check.
Good to know! Thank you very much. I ended up carburetor swapping the truck and it actually solved my running issues.
Question for you regarding the pully!! I replaced my PS pump and box and preasure line this year. I had to pull the feont pully, now squeeking... could THAT send me out of time? I also have a hesitant start - jusr off the line, it hesitates...then goes. I'm running rich, and have a new pump, filter, plugs, cap, rotor, MAP sensor...now going to replace O2, EGR, Coolant sensors...suggestions? Taking it in for diagnostics soon!
It's the ecm I went through the same problem spent hundreds just to find out the ECM was bad goes intermittent when warm you can also test it with a multimeter
Yeah I’ve heard this, unfortunately I dumped a lot into parts including a new ECM and it didn’t seem to fix my issue. What I did to fix it was carburetor swap the truck. I’ve never seen it run so good lol.
what carb and intake you go with might do that with my sons 305 tbi
@@nickconnors8515
Hey brotha I see you are still responding to comments so heres one. Have you ever touched the timing gears and chain yourself? And also, the idle air control valve?
I didn’t do anything with the timing chain, probably going to change it this summer just as preventative maintenance. I did change the idle air control valve and the pigtail. I believe it was a fuel pressure issue because I carburetor swapped it and the tbi used about 15 psi I believe and my Edelbrock carb only needs 5.5 psi. I think my pump might have been weak, it actually just died a few days ago and I’m in the process of changing it. The carburetor makes my truck run great, but I definitely should have checked fuel pressure because ripping everything apart lol.
I just got the same exact truck and I’m having the same issues . I was going to replace the knock and the speed sensor and see what that does . I was having a rough idle and rough shifting but once I reset the ecm the trans went thru the gears smoother than ever but couple days later (still getting that rough idle) it was having really bad drop in rpms while I’m driving and sometime even cut off . Gonna try what you did and see if it helps any . Thanks
If you check the description I listed every thing I tried and none of that worked. I never figured out why because I ripped all of the fuel injection off and put a carburetor on it and that fixed all my issues. I have a full carburetor swap series up on the channel in a playlist.
Bit late here but I had similar issues and it was a bad distributor. After trying a whole bunch of things to fix it. I was also having some issues with heat soak and the engine not starting, which turned out to be a weak fuel pump. Truck runs super smooth now.
I’d believe it, that was one thing I never precisely tested, I just checked spray pattern, and the amount of fuel going to the throttle body unit. My fuel pump did blow a fuse a couple months ago, so mine may have had the same issue.
@@nickconnors8515 did u have an actual fuel pump fuse or just the relay?
@@pitchforkpeasant6219 one of the ecm fuses I believe ecm fuze b was blowing due to s cable shorting out on my exhaust manifold and that fuze had some sort of relation to the fuel pump and cut power to it.
I have a 91 k. Ca smog sucks. Replaced IAC great improvement, no pass smog, replaced cat and map sensor, my truck runs the best it has ever run. Still no pass smog, I have replaced the temp control sensor and will change their pos sensor and try smog again but this thing runs bad ass now
I’m shocked an older rig like that needs to pass smog that’s rather silly. Dang emissions tests, luckily where I live my 95 is the cut off for emissions testing.
Usually vacuum leaks tend to get better when warmed up but have you checked for that especially where the intake manifold seats with extra attention to the backbside
I did briefly, nothing seemed to raise any flags I ended up carburetor swapping this truck and that fixed all my issues.
@nickconnors8515 how did you do a carb swap I'm in the same boat you were in.
@@boeingah-64apacheattackhel17 I got a whole series on my channel covering most of the swap, should help you out and if you got any questions or concerns feel free to ask!
Hey nick, ik its been a while but when youd be pressing on the gas, would jt sometimes feel like youd get a power band for a second repeatedly until you got uo to said desired speed?
Mine would just simply stutter off the line, and then take off. Once it got past its hesitation issue the power band was fine.
hey man I have a 94 gmc sierra and sometimes when I'm at a red light and when it turns green and I go to step on it a little bit it looses power and sometimes it stalls, happens sometimes and only after 3 or 4 hours of continuous use. any idea what it might be? it´s basically the same engine
I’d suggest doing the easy stuff first, inspect the spark plug wires making sure they’re good, pull some plugs and make sure they aren’t fouled, if those are good, pull the distributor cap off and inspect the rotor and cap, making sure the prongs are in good shape. After that I’d go after fuel pressure, either the regulator in the TBI unit, or the fuel pump itself.
My is doing the same thing
I going to change my spark plugs. 95 chevy 1500 Cheyenne
4.3 vortec automatic, single cab Long bed, sky blue .....
Best truck ever for me
Ty
@@ice9945 yeah very reliable engine. I changed spark plugs and map sensor and haven't had that problem again. I think it was the sensor.
I also changed the wires along with the plugs so if you want to take the exact same approach it might stop doing it.
Make sure to disconnect the battery and connect it again so the computer restarts after you change the sensor.
Mine is a 4.3 also so you might fix the problem.
did you have to replace the fluid that leaks out? if so what was it and how do i refill it
Yes I did, only lost about a quart. Fill it through where the dipstick goes on. The proper way to check the fluid is get everything to operating temp, put the vehicle in park and check the level.
@@nickconnors8515 thanks bro ill check that out rn.
I know you already swapped to a carb but one thing I didn't see listed in the parts was the idle air control motor.
I must have forgot to add it, I did change it probably 8 months or so before I started getting all these issues.
Welcome to the world of Vortech
I don’t wanna be in that world lol
I don't think the vortex came out till 96
@@gmaker69don't you see? Was problematic even before it came out
It's not a vortec.
@@BennyS0236 read the above comment
I had my transmission go out and rebuilt it, and for a while, stopped having problems and then it’s come back. And the other issue I’m having is I have the AC on edit only really blows on medium high and a high now I have it set up perfect to where it’s cold. It’s one of the coldest vehicles everybody wants me to do their AC and make it like mine. That’s how cold it is but when I’m running and it’s in high, after a little while it just stops blowing as hard as it should for some weird reason. Again it’s on high the whole time and after maybe five minutes or so on the highway you can definitely tell it stops blowing as hard as it should. And I have change the AC clutch I’ve evacuated the system I put New Freon/R1 23 etc. also I put dye in there as well and I have also replaced the entire blower motor and cleaned out as much as I could the AC evaporator in the dash and if you haven’t done that even if your mother is not bad, I highly suggest take the motor out and clean off that evaporator system because there are and will be leaves and all sorts of junk built up on that Because the solution if it breaks as you have to take the entire dash apart and some of the steering column, so just a little bit of maintenance will make a huge difference. And back flush your heater core you wouldn’t believe the junk I got out of the heater core. But I’m trying to figure out why I’m running down the highway with the AC on high and the fan blowing perfect and then all the sudden it stops blowing as hard as it should.
Sounds like it could be an issue electrically. Like a resister or something is bad because it starts normal but gets slower and slower.
unplug the EGR electric fitting module and take it for a run
You said everything but! What about the Idle Air control valve.. and a performance coil pack
I have a 91 GMC Sierra and had similar issues back then. My truck runs like a Boss!
I did change the idle air control valve, must have forgot to mention it. Didn’t use a performance coil pack tho, could’ve been it. I did end up carburetor swapping the truck and she runs good now!
@@nickconnors8515 That's awesome bro! I have the stock 4.3 Tbi with new heads on mine currently. Later on I'll LS swap it for sure!
@@KinGJA1M3S can’t go wrong with that!
I replaced the ignition switch on my 97 short bed it was making tranny shift weird as it it was not sending power .. but fixed my issue %100
Excellent! Glad it fixed your issue. I never completely figured mine out, what I did to fix it was carburetor swap the truck. Got rid of the electronic fuel injection and the newer distributor out of the way. Carburetor for fuel injection and HEI distributor for ignition.
I heard everything but new plugs wires and distributor cap??? That sounds about right, sounds like roasted spark plugs dude
Plugs were recently done before this video maybe a month or so if I remember correctly and I did change the wires quick I must have forgot to mention it. I never did truly figure it out I believe it was something electronic because I gutted the TBI system and carburetor swapped it and it runs like a top now.
I noticed mine misfired yesterday. I put it in park and revved wouldnt go past 2500 rpms. I started it today and in park it ran normal put when i drove it it misfires and fallson its face at like 2500. 98 4.3 vortec
These trucks are definitely a mystery, luckily I believe the 98 can be scanned with a obd2 scanner but most of the time that doesn’t exactly help lol
Sensores de oxigeno, sensor tps,
Did you change the spark plugs and wires?
Yes I did, I changed all that, got tired of messing with it and put a carburetor on it. That fixed all my problems.
Check your intake manifold gaskets or your catalytic converters
I had similar issue and was my intake manifold gasket was leaking a bit of oil into the spark plug
After that was fixed i jad a hesitation issue that turned out to be a bad catalytic converter...
Just saying
You've done quite few things
Hope this gets resolved soon for you brother 🙏🏾
Thank you for the input! I ended up having to carburetor swap that truck and it never ran better.
Sounds a lot like my 2012 ram 1500 and can’t figure it out. Scanner says cylinder 7 misfire. So far i’ve changed all 16 spark plugs, coil, pack, and cylinder seven and a fuel injector on cylinder seven with no luck.
I’m wondering if it may be it’s being caused by lack of back pressure from exhaust leak up at the exhaust manifold as well as near the muffler
Anyway, I know I do need a wheel speed sensor because it caused all three lights to pop on my dash ABS light traction, control, light and the service, 4 Wheel Dr. light . 4 Wheel Dr. works fine but I saw the title of your video and thought I’d check it out. Have you figured out what the problem is yet? Thanks.
I actually truly never did, I ended up slapping a carburetor on the truck and that fixed all my issues. I think mine was something fuel related, or electrical
did you figure yours out? I've had a clogged catalytic converter cause random cylinder misfires and funky EGR valves also
@@IhaveaDoghouse Have'nt figured it out yet. My neighbor was recently telling me he thinks it might be a clogged cat as well, so I'm going to have to check it and see. I have'nt noticed any red glow coming from under the truck or anything. Will look up how to check the EGR valve as well. Thanks for the response
@@HomeGrownPyro1 Your exhaust leak at the manifold could cause it if it's a bad leak right by that cylinder, is the leak on the exhaust port for cylinder 7?
If not I would start with the cat since your EGR should give you some codes related to that as well as the misfire if that was the culprit. If it's not too rusty and you don't have a sensor in your actual cat you might be able to get the bolts undone and remove it and take it for a drive without it in place to test it, You don't want to drive for too long without a full exhaust but with the manifolds going into the y pipe you should have enough back pressure to test it. All my vehicles I didn't have any luck with the bolts and I had to cut it out and weld a new pipe in. One I was able to cut open the bottom of the cat and pry it open, knock the honeycomb out and weld it back up still on the vehicle but your cat might be worth money at a scrap yard so double check before you do that.
@@IhaveaDoghouse Thanks a lot for the reply I appreciate it. That gives me some direction start looking because I've been stumped. I'm not sure if the exhaust leak is right at cylinder 7 or not but am assuming so because I do have two broken manifold bolts that I can see, one being near the back of the engine. Ive been putting off replacing the manifold gaskets because of the misfire and unsure what the outcome is going to be with that. But now that I know that may actually be the cause of it, that is going to be the next work I do to it. Have just really been dreading it because I know those broken studs are most likely going to be a mfer to deal with
What’s the gear called behind the output speed sensor?
I think its a reluctor wheel not an actual gear.
I have 98 chevy express 2500 5.7 and it's having some issue
I never truly figured out my issue, I believe something electronic or in the TBI unit itself because I carburetor swapped it and now it runs great.
its the TEMP Sensor might be wrong it needs the one near the thermostat it tells the pc how to control the efi on the tbi chevys.
the parts stores are notorious for selling the wrong one that fits and plugs in but its not the right ohm specs
lol the one we just got for the dash cluster cause these trucks have 2 pegs the gague out after turning the truck on ohm meter it was way out of spec.
Yeah I changed both sensors because I made these mistakes lol. Still didn’t fix the issue unfortunately, ended up carburetor swapping this truck and it still runs like a top.
Have you tried the temperature sending sensor
I did the coolant temperature sensor which sends data to the computer and the sensor that sends the signal to the dash and unfortunately it didn’t affect anything. I ended up carburetor swapping my truck and that did fix all my issues.
Have you checked the IAT sensor?
Which one is that, I hadn’t heard of a IAT?
Fuel filter ramplace ?
I did, I try to replace it once or twice a year.
Idea one throw it off a building and buy a new one or rebuild the entire motor im having the same issues as you and ive replaced everything on the fucka and nothing has fixed it but ive noticed the truck eats spark plugs so not sure why
Interesting, I never truly found my issue but after the carburetor swap it runs as it should.
Crankshaft Position Sensor?
1995 model doesn’t have 1
I know this video is old but I got the same exact truck 1995 C 1500 5 speed manual transmission and I'm having the same problems taking my truck to the mechanic shop and he told me that it was my exhaust system trust me I had the same problem the first five minutes you prank it up it'll run perfectly fine then it'll start overheating and start messing up idling real bad
She never overheated, I actually think my problem was a failing fuel pump. I carburetor swapped it and it ran great but a carburetor only needs 5-7 psi and the tbi used 15 and if it doesn’t have that 15 then it won’t function properly. My fuel pump actually just died lol, but either something was really messed up and the carburetor fixed it or the fuel pump was failing.
I have the same truck and had the same problem it ended up being the temp sending sensor it looks like the temp sensor on the top of the motor but this one is on the driver side mine wash between sparkplug 1 and 2
I see, I did change mine because I wasn’t sure what exactly it affected besides the reading on the dash board and it didn’t seem to help in my case.
idle air control valve?
It could have been I did change it but the idle was normal. I never did truly figure out what it was because I carburetor swapped the truck and it solved the issues. I’ve been running it that way for almost a year and a half and it runs like a top now.
You probably had a bad ignition coil from the get. Replace that whole set up and it will run fine I think.
Yeah I figured that too, unfortunately I did do that and it didn’t fix my issue. I ended up putting a carburetor on my truck and it runs really well.
@@nickconnors8515good man. Same shit happened to me when I changed every part on the truck.
Shit just happens. Sometimes it sucks but you learn a lot by it.
Egr valve and battery cables
Carburetor swap fixed it all!
Any update on the fix? Having the same issue and would like a straight answer to what fix the problem. Instead of everybody, guessing has anybody actually fix this problem and what did they do to fix it?
My personal issues mentioned in this video I fixed by carburetor swapping my truck, been running like a top for 2 years now
So what fixed it
Ripping all the electronic fuel injection out. I carburetor swapped the truck and it runs like a top
Lets trow money at the truck hopping something fixes itself 😂, could of save lots of money and take it to a shop,
Definitely a good idea, just more fun to tinker around with it, I learned a lot.
Im basiclly in the same SHITuation just some issues are different.
It is a pain, ended up carburetor swapping my truck and that solved the issue.
Did you ever figure out the misfire?
Must’ve been something electrical, I carburetor swapped the truck and all of a sudden it ran great.
Check the ground coming off your negative battery terminal
I did unfortunately, even added an extra ground strap just to be sure still nothing. Ended up carb swapping the truck anyway and she runs like a top now.
Check the diaphragm in pressure regulator
Unfortunately I did, I rebuilt the whole TBI unit and still nothing. I ended up carburetor swapping the truck and it solved all my issues.
Fuel pressure is where I would have started, a carburetor doesn't require the fuel pressure that fuel injection does....
Probably a super valid statement! I did rough checks like disconnecting the fuel lines and checking the spray and touching batteries to the fuel injectors to watch them fire but I never actually hooked up a gauge. The thing that really stumped me was why it did it after being ran for 2 min from cold. Ice cold in the morning the first 2 minutes would be great, but after that I’d have issues.
@@nickconnors8515 Who knows when comes to anything electrical... But maybe it took that two minutes for the pump to warm up because of faulty pump issues, these fuel pumps can throw u for a loop sometimes lol.. but I'm willing to bet your pump was weak or going out.. I think you only need like 6 lbs for a carburator and 60 for fuel injection..
You’re probably right lol, I think the old tbi needed 15-20 psi and the new carb is set at 5.5 psi. The whole time chasing this issue just to probably be the pump.
Take it to the shop
Valid
Oh my , Im 60 allways drove Fords never had problems like this, daughter bought a 3500 express what a mess this is . Cant belive you guys ever made fun of Ford.
Can’t say I’ve made fun of fords, been a ford guy my entire life lol, just got this truck because it was a screaming deal, and I can’t be happier with my old Chevrolet. Still like my fords but this specific truck has really grown on me.
Catalytic converter
Numer part !!
Need a part number for the speed sensor?
Dude call me please man bc everything u just listed is what I have been going through for a month to the point I’m scared to drive the truck and Lost my job bc I broke down two days in a row and I just want to be able to be dependable employee again with dependable transportation but I’ve changed everything you just listed and thinking OK that’s got to be it and before you know it I feel out 10 minutes of driving when I put it in the first gear and then start taking off it’ll start acting like it’s running out of gas and slinging me back-and-forth and then it’ll bog down and you can keep it going maybe 5 miles an hour if use the whole 2 foot method but then eventually it’ll just kill out and when it’s doing all this it’s running like really bad backfiring Tylenol crazy it was island real hard to replace the auto control valve a ribbed even higher after that so I finally got all that fixed but it’s still doing the dying thing and backfire and kind of screwed up I’m in Waco tx and I’ve watched 100 videos and yours is the first one that somebody actually listed everything that I’ve done and you just replace that part I want to know if it helped I’m out of Waco Texas like I said earlier I think but my number is 2546405782
Honestly, all I did was carburetor swap it. I ripped all the EFI crap out and put a 4 barrel on it and that fixed it.
Didn't read all, possibly clogged cat.
@@doncallicott1696 I have heard weird stuff happens when the cats get clogged especially on the older ones because there isn’t always a code.
@@nickconnors8515 Hi Nick, the main thing was bogging down, like it wasn't taking the gas, but in actuality, it was a clogged cat. My '91 4.3 had over 300k on it when it started, with time as the cat breaks down, it plugs the exhaust.
My 96 was doing that, I put a new mass air flow sensor in it and it ran great afterwards
Good, I changed the 95 version of that sensor (I believe they called it a MAP in 95). I ended up completely gutting the EFI and put a carburetor on it, that fixed all the problems.
@@nickconnors8515 was it easy to change it to carburetor
Relatively yes, changing the intake manifold would probably be the hardest part.
IAC
It's the EGR
Yeah I thought that, changed the valve and didn’t solve the issue. What did solve it was carburetor swapping the truck and it runs better than ever.
@@nickconnors8515 Oh, great to hear ❤️
Had a similar issue and it was the egr, but had to also check the solenoid.
Cheers from Sweden
Egr valve
I did change that because it was throwing a code. The code went away after changed it. I never did find the issue because I carburetor swapped the truck and it solved everything. I’ve been running with the carb for a year and a half and it runs like a champ.
@@nickconnors8515 i just deleted mine got 250k hard miles on the truck michigan truck rusty but trusty dont get much easier than a obs chevy
@@debo32212 for sure, some of the best trucks out there. Reliable like the square body, but still has modern amenities
Trace you harness man
I’m not sure what it was to be honest. I carburetor swapped the truck and it had been running like a champ for 2 years with zero issues.
I am having issues with my truck hesitating while going up hills. I have changed the map sensor, idle sensor, throttle position sensor, knock sensor, fuel injectors. I am stumped man on my truck right now. 94 Chevy S10 blazer 4.3 vortec.
Shud up man!
My bad
Here are 2 pieces you can check the EGR diaphragm on the back of the intake manifold and the EGR solonoid which looks like a map sensor on the passenger side of the manifold both are easy to replace and relatively cheap😊
Toque converter clutch….
Never considered something like that! I ended up carburetor swapping the truck and it runs and performs flawlessly now.