The Guy Who NOBODY Expected To Free Climb The Nose
Vložit
- čas přidán 12. 12. 2019
- Get ready for you BIG WALL Adventure: bit.ly/2Eh3fO0
On the 11th of November, Belgian climber Sébastien Berthe became only the 7th person to free climb the Nose, the world's most famous route, on El Capitan, Yosemite. The 2,900 foot route is rated at 5.14a / 8b+.
He also became the 1st person ever to free climb the route ground up...this is story.
Directed, Produced and shot by Alexandre Eggermont
The Guy Who NOBODY Expected To Free Climb The Nose - Sport
I really like the fact that he thought it's possible for him because he has small fingers like Lynn Hill. :D
when he was 12
It goes, boys
So sick! Didn't know that no-one had gone ground up before! Amazed at how much this sport continues to push the boundaries of what's possible 🤟🏼
Lynn Hill went ground up in a day in the 90's.
@@LastCookieToCrumble Ground Up in this climbing context doesn't mean climbing the pitches in order, it means climbing the route without practicing any sections (on top rope, via abseil, with aid etc) first. If you fall you don't pull past your high point and work the moves. If you're being strict if you fall you immediately lower down to the start of the pitch and begin again from there (not sure how strict things are on big walls). So when Lynn Hill did the nose in a day she had already done the entire route before so not a ground up ascent in this context.
@@DaleTurrell Thanks for the clarification.
not much footage of the climbing itself ..
To have done it ground up is truly incredible! Good work for sticking at it!
Congratulations on a job well done! It’s always great to hear a climbing story about an underdog getting the win! Thanks for inspiring those of us with smaller fingers! Keep on crushing it brother!
i'd love an edit of this with just the climbing
I'm sitting here trying to watch him climb the route and the camera's jumping around and switching shots like a meth head is filming/editing this. Let's see some pure route footage.
I understand your frustration but remember that not everyone can afford to climb with a professional filming crew. They probably had to work with the little action shots they had?
That’s true. I was alone and am not a filmmaker. I also have longer shots of pure climbing, but this is not what I wanted to share personally. I wanted something more than 30sec footages of the crux sequences. This is already online from the previous ascents and I didn’t have any interest in adding another one. Hope some will still enjoy a different point of view.
Well done! Thanks for sharing this! I really enjoyed the film and was glad to hear this story! Keep up the great work Alex!
@@alexegg62 Yeah, but please show us those 30secs, too.
Awesome video, thanks for sharing. I can't imagine how strong you have to be to free the Great Roof third try...INSANE.
Achievement of the year for me! Congratulations!
It showes Tommy Caldwells super human powers that he freeclimbed the Nose and Freerider on the same day!
Oh a fellow belgian that i didn't about! Good stuff man and congratz, amazing achievement!
No footage of him doing the Great Roof? Bummer! But I still gave the video a thumbs up because his ascent really is an amazing feat!
Bravo ! Quelle aventure de fous ! c’est MA. GNI. FI. QUE ...Merci pour cette super vidéo...trop courte bien sûr . J’attends la suite maintenant ....
Il a film qui arrive avec Nicolas Favresse apparemment, du moins c'est ce qu'il disait il y a une semaine quand j'ai été le voir en conférence!
Such a rad achievement!!!
great Send! Congrats
Superbes images ! Excellent choix de musique : BRNS ! Des belges aussi 😁
Oh man, I am reading "The Push" atm, can't even imagine how much work goes into a big wall..let alone one so few people have freed!
KubaClimbsRocks what a great book, it’s one of my all time fav ones!
@@enricopiazza5134 Finished it yesterday... It's got me all kinds of stoked on training!
super cool!
I can't wait till we get past the "well she has small fingers" argument posed by the tens of thousands of people who have never freed The Nose (see also: Rodden's FA of Meltdown)
That argument is old news man. If honnold can, any size fingers can. People who try to discredit lynn simply by her finger size are those who dont understand climbing and arent real climbers, just egotistical people who can't* accept that they cant climb it
@@brandondann3514 it is old news, but I keep hearing it
@@brandondann3514 alex honnold has not freed the nose
Notre fierté belge en grimpe !! Respect !!
Great video. A lot of talk about about the Changing corners pitch but we only got to see a few moves which was kind of disappointing.
And with chaninging the climbing shoes during the sequence? 🤔
spent more time watching him clip draws than actually climbing
Why is no one asking why they are wearing helmets in the hot tub?
I have personally seen far more injuries in and near hot tubs than I have in climbing and mountain biking combined (I do all three as much as I can). These folks are just 300IQ
Christopher Jensen oh yeh mountain biking is a rly cool sport but i think it can definitely be risky
Because Petzl was their sponsor
Because Petzl was their sponsor
Safety first
guys, i`m not clear:
the Nose route its a multipitch punching or trad road?
I expected them to. Knew all along.
Sebastien Berthe et Loic Debry bravo !
What is that great music? BMS “Our Lights”? Can’t seem to find it anywhere.
Ryan McDermott BRNS - our lights
Changing corners pitch looks kind of hideous. And the Great Roof for sure.
Barbara and Jacobo also sent the Nose-free after 10 days. Interesting notion of FA, if you climb 2nd or 3rd doesn't mean more than FA.
did they, though? tagging along doesn't mean they also climbed it free.
Sheer will. El Cap will test anyone.
I'm curious now as to how many people have sent Changing Corners while placing gear. He just clipped pre-placed gear on his send.
and whats the problem with clipping pre placed gear?
When it's that hard, nothing at all. I'm simply curious as to how many people have sent it that way. It certainly adds another level of difficulty to place gear.
So after a 25 year absence lycra is finally making a comeback. Is this whats called devolution?
"Retro"
I doubt the Nose will ever be onsighted, as most if not all high caliber climbers have seen pics and movies of climbers on the crux pitches.
Im not a fan of the clickbaity title
C.J. Williams well my boy haha, did you expect them to climb it? Did you ever hear of them ? As Belgian myself I find it very inspiring and motivational that these guys from a small and flat country did this amazing effort. A little less negative would be in place for these guys with just pure love for climbing!
@1:49 you guys are special...
NOBODY
Cool footage and sick climbing, but you should really consider hiring a professional to do the sound. The hot tub interview sounds awful even with the jets off, and the whole mix is pretty bad overall. Music at the end is totally clipping. Nearly made it unwatchable for me.
Eric Stapleton boohoo
Helmet in hot tub but no helmet in some of the clips of him rock climbing..... 😑 😂
nice pants
What do you mean with first ever from the Ground up? what did the 7 People before do differently?
He presumably left the ground never having been on the route, and redpointed all pitches, and summited. Other ascentionists have been up the route previously, trying moves, learning, practicing, then they go for a from the ground to the top send once they feel they have it dialed. So he had to try each pitch, figure out beta, and redpoint before moving up. A cooler and, you could argue, more stylistically pure way to do it!
@pbandjosh ...... it’s still misleading as he Yo•Yo’d & HangDogged(ancient FreeClimbing terms predating RedPoint/RotPunkt), Lynn finally climbed their route in consecutive pitches with no falls - 100% RedPoint Send.
@@robertnewell4054 Absolutely correct. I don't think, though, that either accomplishment detracts from the other. Lynn's continuous no-falls ascent is fantastic. As is this ascent. In the future someone might manage a ground-up one day ascent, which would be a further feat. And perhaps it may get flashed or onsighted as well!
@pbandjosh ...... I appreciate your view & take on things. As someone who moved to the Valley @ 18 in 1982, I believe I’ve lived through the greatest changes in the Sport. What hasn’t changed though is how routes & style are reported. I wish there wasn’t so much use of “poetic license” in telling the tale. Tell it straight without fudging, and like you pointed out they stand as great & awesome achievements
EDIT: Indeed looking for the first Au Vue Flash. I thought that Adam Ondra was going to have a good shot at it. I also agree with your assessment on future efforts. Still great challenges left for the future
just wanted to emphasize that he did not rappel in and practice the crux pitches extensively. I think this is the most critical thing to note. I'm not sure if Lynn Hill did, but I know that all of the other ascensionists rappelled in and worked through every detail of the crux while hanging. This makes the process much easier because: a) you know every move, whether it's possible, and exactly what to expect when leading and b) on a cryptic pitch like changing corners, if leading, you might fall on a runout section over and over taking huge whips and having to reclimb a bunch of 5.13+ terrain just to even try the crux. No crutches to lean on, no cutting corners, no eliminating the unknown. I think emphasizing that this was ground up is very noteworthy.
I was more surprised when Connor climbed it free
David Carlin who wasn’t?
Even more impressive is the dude managed to change shoes three times on changing corners while freeing it :|
And you forget the knee protector as well :)
Why did the film makers edit out the crux moves on the crux pitch? I mean, we get a short clip of him moving into the start of Changing Corners, then a cut to him after the crux, but nada with the crux? Is there another video coming?
Also, did I see pre-placed gear above him on his successful attempt? To count as a "free ascent", is pre-placing pro kosher?
I don't think anyone has sent Changing Corners without pre place gear. Also I think there's fixed gear on it anyway. I know there is quite a bit of fixed gear on The Great Roof.
@@rushthezeppelin I"m pretty sure Tommy Caldwell 'sent Changing Corners without pre-placed gear. Check out Dosage V. 4 when he climbs two El Cap routes free. (at least I think it was #4)
what do you mean they were the first to do it ground up ?
how else do you do it..?
Everyone else worked the crux pitches rapping in.
Clickbait. Should be titled two weirdos bathing together in a hot tub with helmets on. 🤷🏻♂️
Me: Oh he's french
him: Im Belgian
me: FuCk
How was the great roof? Congratz!
LYNN HILL !!!
Quelqu’un connaît la musique?
BRNS - Our Lights
All you showed was you climbing into a hot tub. Epic fail.
What does 'free climbing' mean?
Didn't use assistance or "aid" of non natural elements. He only used the rock and his body parts to climb.
@@autrepensee what kinds of things do ppl use if it's not free climbing? Winches and ladders ?
@@dallasonfire604 I have never aid climbed so others will surely be able to provide a more complete answer.
Simply pulling on a carabiner or quickdraw would be considered aid climbing. More specific gear may consist of nylon ladders, pitons ...
I think aid climbing is typically time consuming and very physically exhausting. Thus, on an "aid route" people tend to only aid climb the hardest parts of a route while free climbing the rest. Thus a hard route like the nose will have two ratings. One completely free. 5.14 in this case. One hybrid free/aid 5.9/c2 ( I think).
It is important to understand that one only needs to aid climb if he is not technically or physically able to free the move/section. The climber portrayed here is technically strong enough to free every single part of the nose.
@@autrepensee 5:12 and this isn't percieved as assistance?
@@albertthorval4674 the specific clip would be considered aid. Yes. However, multi day accents like this one require ascending each pitch several times in order to log gear up. Also, multi-pitch routes (a pitch being a length of climbing between two belay points) requires to spend a lot of time at belay stance hanging on the rope or anchor device. What is required to tick a climb as free is to ascend every single pitch without artificial assistance at least once. If you do it first try it is considered a flash or possibly an on-sight. Otherwise it is a redpoint. Ascending pitches artificially outside of that does not take away from the accomplishment
It's just talking ...
🦄
Why are they wearing helmets in the bathtub?
Why are you wearing a helmet in the bath?
nice ! without top rope-ing
So for someone who doesn't climb, what's the difference between this and what everyone else does? I understand what a free solo is from Honnold's movie, but this guy is roped in. What is unique about it? Don't people climb the nose all the time?
The three relevant categories here are free solo, free and speed/aid.
Free solo is climbing without any aid or protection.
Free climbing is climbing without any aid but with ropes for protection (only to catch you, not to support or let you advance)
Aid climbing is when you climb using ropes or other tools to aid your ascent.
The vast majority of people climbing the nose do so using aid climbing. Only a small handful of people have every free climber it and no-one has ever free soloed it.
shite clickbait title, NOBODY expected that from epictv SHOCKING. Just because hes underground doesnt mean noone expected him to, have a look at what hes accomplished with his climbing and you'll realise he has the prereqs to free the nose.
😉😉😉😉😉
With ropes, what's the big deal? What's free climbing as opposed to the hundreds of other CZcams videos of people climbing the nose?
Well there’s free climbing and aid climbing...and this was the 7th free ascent of the route in around 30 years, so don’t think there’ll be hundreds of other videos on the internet of people free climbing this route...maybe aid climbing it 👍
@@EpicTV Yeah dont mind me im just an idiot who didnt know the difference until I googled it and then realized why this was a feat. lol
wtf?
I thought Free climb it is climbing without insurance
Free solo no rope, free climb you have a rope and only use the rock to climb.
@@guyanaredbone5996 i get it! Thanx a lot!
@@guyanaredbone5996 so what's not free climbing. You use like an electric winch to pull you up?
Why don't they just climbing? Why do they have to say free climbing.
In the early days of climbing it was normal that you put slings into bolts to stand in them and to pull yourself up... so today you don't do this anymore and you also don't hold on to camelots (the things you can put into crags)
I hope this helps ;-)
and then there are those who choose not to self promote about when they did it free . Just content knowing they accomplished their goal and silently moved on to the next wall...
Can we stop with the trash clickbait titles? How about “Seb Berthe frees the nose” or “seb berthe ground up frees the nose”. This shit is literally my biggest gripe with epic tv. Also more climbing, less talk and fluff
Anybody could climb the nose.
Fantomen did you?
Are you serious...
we're waiting for your video haha
See you there
French LGBT production
If next time Petzl could add 5 bucks to have a decent mic it could be good