I never thought I’d own a British bike but, due to a long story I won’t go into, I now own a ‘73 T120V. She needs a fair bit of work and your videos are a fantastic source of knowledge. I’m a bit late to the party so I’m not sure if you’ll see this, but thank you so much for posting them.
Hi Andrew :-) thank you glad to of helped with your TR6, my bean tin lamp shades have served me well I have now got some small led lamps but have to put paper towel over them to act as a defuser :-)
An old video, but I'm redoing the oil seal on a 70 500 cc twin. Not sure why he never uses an air impact wrench on these bolts. Lot easier than heating with a torch. Has he done any videos lately?
They work a treat on the old clutch, not sure if it will work on the new one as the plates are a lot tighter so I might end up making some hooks to do the job.
Hi spliffbunker :-) sorry for the later reply, you should take a small screwdriver and try to push the spring back into the hole as you turn the nuts (screws) this can be really awkward if the nuts have been over tightened, there is a small dimple on the nut that catches the spring end to stop it unscrewing the same arrangement is at the bottom of the cup. If you have to force the nuts off it will distort the springs and you will require new ones, sometimes forcing is all you can do.
It was SO tight I reckon a rag would of caused damage I did not want. and it took a lot of heat to get the locktight soft as the shoulder nut is fairly deep in the alternator
Im having the exact same issue with the rotor nut..How long and where did you apply the propane torch. Did you wind up using an impact wrench as well? Its a bugger for sure
question... i have 73 t140v. i need to replace clutch and the 3 clutch nut springs wont back out or loosen. seems like the they are catching on the spring and returning to original position. any suggestions.
Thanks VMATT :-) hope you get your wish one day, though you'll pay a fair bit more today than you would of your original Norton another luverlee bit of Brit iron.
Hello Sir; the big problem I am have now is the nut on the clutch basket was tighten to 75 ft/# This was too much so now I am down to 20 Ft /# with locking washer. The rod and diaphragm are placed correctly then the adjusting nut is 1/4 turn off the rod. The efforts to get this high torque I may have screwed something up, because once I put my clutch cable together the basket does not move. I have snapped a cable pulling the clutch in.....Strange....any ideas? Thanks and I hope you are enjoying your long weekend.
Hi Charles :-) I cannot see an over tightened hub nut giving this problem. I think your problem is more likely too short a pushrod, or the cable has been too tight when adjusting the pushrod. When you adjust the clutch push rod have the cable fully un-adjusted or disconnected. I hope this helps sorry for the late reply, let us know if you have success.
Good grab of the bike near the end! Glad to see you still have reflexes like a cat. Great work. Thanks for posting.
I never thought I’d own a British bike but, due to a long story I won’t go into, I now own a ‘73 T120V. She needs a fair bit of work and your videos are a fantastic source of knowledge. I’m a bit late to the party so I’m not sure if you’ll see this, but thank you so much for posting them.
Hi Stuffy :-)
Never too late! When you get them running on song they will see you well, thanks for the thanks!
Thanks again for another great video. You're a legend. Your videos have been a great help for my 71 tr6c. Liked the bean tin lamp shade.
Hi Andrew :-) thank you glad to of helped with your TR6, my bean tin lamp shades have served me well I have now got some small led lamps but have to put paper towel over them to act as a defuser :-)
Hello Lunmad,
Thanks for making these videos. I've just bought a T140E and am doing a 7-plate clutch conversion - they're really helpful!
+crofty1984
Hi Crofty :-) glad they help, all the adjustments you need to make are very similar, push rod adjustment is the most important.
An old video, but I'm redoing the oil seal on a 70 500 cc twin. Not sure why he never uses an air impact wrench on these bolts. Lot easier than heating with a torch. Has he done any videos lately?
They work a treat on the old clutch,
not sure if it will work on the new one as the plates are a lot tighter
so I might end up making some hooks to do the job.
Thanks for the upload again Jonh :)
Hi spliffbunker :-) sorry for the later reply,
you should take a small screwdriver and try to push the spring back into the hole as you turn the nuts (screws) this can be really awkward if the nuts have been over tightened, there is a small dimple on the nut that catches the spring end to stop it unscrewing the same arrangement is at the bottom of the cup.
If you have to force the nuts off it will distort the springs and you will require new ones, sometimes forcing is all you can do.
The clutch plate removal magnets.Good idea.Thats what i use
It was SO tight I reckon a rag would of caused damage I did not want.
and it took a lot of heat to get the locktight soft as the shoulder nut is fairly deep in the alternator
Im having the exact same issue with the rotor nut..How long and where did you apply the propane torch. Did you wind up using an impact wrench as well? Its a bugger for sure
Cheers marky :-)
I jumped at the screen when the bike started to fall...
OOooo! understatement of the night,
left in for entertainment purposes ya nar! ,-)
question... i have 73 t140v. i need to replace clutch and the 3 clutch nut springs wont back out or loosen. seems like the they are catching on the spring and returning to original position. any suggestions.
Thank you :-) 72oben
glad to help :-)
FYI, i just purchased a cordless 18v Milwaukee 3/8" impact wrench. Will save you precious time removing and installing fasteners.
One day I will invest in one, the main problem here was I had used loctite on the alternator nut, never again.
Thanks VMATT :-)
hope you get your wish one day, though you'll pay a fair bit more today than you would of your original Norton another luverlee bit of Brit iron.
Hello, I have a 1965 t120r. The clutch lever is very hard to squeeze. What's the likely culprit?
Hi Ash 9 times out of 10 it will be the cable, poor adjustment can also cause it.
Start adjustment with slack cable from clutch push rod.
I about had a heart attack and its not even my bike.. I'm thinking tryinng to undo crank nuts might be a 2 person job
a bit too close for comfort that one eh! chartwins :-D
Hi triumpht120r
it took an hour for me heart to slow down after that!!
Hello Sir; the big problem I am have now is the nut on the clutch basket was tighten to 75 ft/# This was too much so now I am down to 20 Ft /# with locking washer. The rod and diaphragm are placed correctly then the adjusting nut is 1/4 turn off the rod. The efforts to get this high torque I may have screwed something up, because once I put my clutch cable together the basket does not move. I have snapped a cable pulling the clutch in.....Strange....any ideas? Thanks and I hope you are enjoying your long weekend.
Hi Charles :-) I cannot see an over tightened hub nut giving this problem.
I think your problem is more likely too short a pushrod, or the cable has been too tight when adjusting the pushrod.
When you adjust the clutch push rod have the cable fully un-adjusted or disconnected.
I hope this helps sorry for the late reply, let us know if you have success.
@@lunmad Thank you. The problem was more to do with me....ha
I would invest in an electric impact gun!
petrol over here is £6.45 a gallon and thats an imperial gallon not a US one :-O
lol 19:05