I appreciate your videos. My wife and I have a small (3.5 bbl) brewery and taproom, and like many of us I started as a homebrewer and made the jump to pro pretty much blind. Having videos like this available made this possible. Now, after being in business for over a year the videos serve to validate practices I've developed or teach me new ones. Thank you for taking the time to do this.
What a great compliment! That is one of my primary goals with the channel, feedback like that lets me know I am heading in the right direction! Please consider sharing the channel with your brewing friends! Cheers!
Same, 5 bbl here in St Maries, Idaho. Started as a home brewer, wife and I quit our jobs, moved in with my parents, and built a brewery on my family farm. Carbonation on this scale was the one part I was most sketchy about figuring out so I really took my time making sure I didn’t over carbonate, but this video has me more confident now that my next batch I can get done much quicker, thank you
Recently I got the Spike prv and the Spike carb stone. This video has given me better instruction than from the company. Still haven't use it yet, do upgrading my system but I look forward to using it and decreasing carbonation time. Another great video, thanks Adam🍻
Do you start your tank with head pressure? We gas our 30 and 60bbl tanks to 11psi, and the wetting pressure of our stones has us setting the regulator to about 21psi. After the ranks sits over night it’s rare we find much success and have to dial it in the fast way. I’m wondering if we start with less pressure in the tank will it allow more CO2 to flow in.
Great question. Most of what I know about this is trial and error with the various equipment I have used. I start with just a couple psi on the tank at the start of carb.
We have 15 and 30 BBL brites. I usually have at least 5 psi or so before I start carbing. Which is about what we get left with after transfer from fermenter.
Hey Adam, I'm having trouble with what I am thinking is CO2 staying in the beer? I have a brite tank, and I'm only 1 bbl. I'm crashing the beer to 34, head pressure on the brite is at 12 and then I'm adding CO2 at my wetting pressure, hearing the carb stone work, then letting it sit and slowly increasing CO2 to get to equilibrium. Its been 2 days and the beer is still undercarbed. There doesn't seem to be any leaks as the pressure is holding. Any thoughts? I didn't think it would take this long for the beer to carb as its such a small space
Do you ferment in Unitanks then move to a bright tank to carbonate? Im wondering if there is a benefit of getting a bright tank or just to carbonate in my Unitank. Cheers
Great question! I primarily transfer to actual BBT’s to carbonate, but I will use fermentation vessels in a pinch as well. Personally I like it because I know I can get the super majority of flocculated yeast off of the beer. You can do that by dumping the cone as well, but all the ports hold yeast too. I dunno, might just be some personal preference too. Does that answer your question?
@@adammakesbeer yeah that makes total sense. I have limited space so might struggle to fit a BBT in and was wondering whether its essential. Loving the vids btw
Thanks for the info! My only source of confusion is, do you set the regulator to the target PSI + wetting pressure, or do you set the regulator to wetting pressure and use the Zahm & Nagel to wait until it’s at the target PSI + wetting pressure? Admittedly I don’t understand the physics side of this. Thanks again
I was just thinking about that. I had the cans warm for three weeks. Just put them in the cooler a couple days ago. I want to give them time to settle out as much as possible. Maybe I can get the video out in late July.
I was just thinking about that. I had the cans warm for three weeks, and got them in the cooler a couple days ago. I’m thinking I will keep them cold for a couple of weeks giving the yeast a chance to settle a bit. I will check them out then and see if it is a good time to shoot the tasting/comparison. If it goes well maybe in late July.
I learned so much with your channel Adam, thanks again Out the curiosity why you prefer forced carbonation over "naturally" carbonation? not debating here I am just asking the Head Brewer why? is because the tanks at your brewery, etc? Thank again
Thank you! Great question. You absolutely can do natural carbonation and carry that process out a couple of different ways. Force carbonation is fast tho. For my standard ales I use that method. For my lagers I am increasingly putting them under head pressure during the lager to get more of my carb that way. Am I making sense?
Thanks for the question! For me, I just wait until I hit the goal PSI per the temperature of the beer. My brite is usually at 33 degrees F, so my pressure gauge will typically need to be at 8 or 9 in order to have my desired level of carbonation. That usually occurs over the course of four to five hours. Does that answer your question?
@@adammakesbeer when you say "wait until you hit your goal PSI" does that mean the pressure gauge on your CIP arm matches the goal PSI? I realize this is an old video/comment.
I appreciate your videos. My wife and I have a small (3.5 bbl) brewery and taproom, and like many of us I started as a homebrewer and made the jump to pro pretty much blind. Having videos like this available made this possible. Now, after being in business for over a year the videos serve to validate practices I've developed or teach me new ones. Thank you for taking the time to do this.
What a great compliment! That is one of my primary goals with the channel, feedback like that lets me know I am heading in the right direction! Please consider sharing the channel with your brewing friends! Cheers!
@@adammakesbeer Cheers! If you are ever in the Kansas City area, please stop by and see us. ExBEERiment Brewing in Gardner, KS.
@@gleytch Will do, thank you!
Same, 5 bbl here in St Maries, Idaho. Started as a home brewer, wife and I quit our jobs, moved in with my parents, and built a brewery on my family farm. Carbonation on this scale was the one part I was most sketchy about figuring out so I really took my time making sure I didn’t over carbonate, but this video has me more confident now that my next batch I can get done much quicker, thank you
@adammakesbeer do you bleed out all of the oxygen that is in the head space or does that not make much of a difference?
Recently I got the Spike prv and the Spike carb stone. This video has given me better instruction than from the company. Still haven't use it yet, do upgrading my system but I look forward to using it and decreasing carbonation time. Another great video, thanks Adam🍻
Haha, thanks man that is kind of you!!!
Do you start at wetting pressure and then start incrementing until you get to the desired pressure? If so, how often and in what size increments?
Hi Adam.. does the beer need to be a certain temp to carbonate beer
Incredibly interesting stuff! Please keep sharing your knowledge!
Thanks so much!!!
Hi, I was wondering if in comercial breweries it´s rigth to use a floating dip tube? I appreciate any consideration of that idea. Thanks
I have not hear of it beyond someone using one with a cask breather.
Do you start your tank with head pressure? We gas our 30 and 60bbl tanks to 11psi, and the wetting pressure of our stones has us setting the regulator to about 21psi. After the ranks sits over night it’s rare we find much success and have to dial it in the fast way. I’m wondering if we start with less pressure in the tank will it allow more CO2 to flow in.
Great question. Most of what I know about this is trial and error with the various equipment I have used. I start with just a couple psi on the tank at the start of carb.
We have 15 and 30 BBL brites. I usually have at least 5 psi or so before I start carbing. Which is about what we get left with after transfer from fermenter.
Hey Adam, I'm having trouble with what I am thinking is CO2 staying in the beer? I have a brite tank, and I'm only 1 bbl. I'm crashing the beer to 34, head pressure on the brite is at 12 and then I'm adding CO2 at my wetting pressure, hearing the carb stone work, then letting it sit and slowly increasing CO2 to get to equilibrium. Its been 2 days and the beer is still undercarbed. There doesn't seem to be any leaks as the pressure is holding. Any thoughts? I didn't think it would take this long for the beer to carb as its such a small space
What kind of head space do you have in the vessel?
@@adammakesbeer This particular beer is only at 26 gallons
@@ericaoneal3141 perhaps the gas is flowing in too aggressively and causing large bubbles rather than small bubbles with large surface area.
Do you ferment in Unitanks then move to a bright tank to carbonate? Im wondering if there is a benefit of getting a bright tank or just to carbonate in my Unitank. Cheers
Great question! I primarily transfer to actual BBT’s to carbonate, but I will use fermentation vessels in a pinch as well. Personally I like it because I know I can get the super majority of flocculated yeast off of the beer. You can do that by dumping the cone as well, but all the ports hold yeast too. I dunno, might just be some personal preference too. Does that answer your question?
@@adammakesbeer yeah that makes total sense. I have limited space so might struggle to fit a BBT in and was wondering whether its essential. Loving the vids btw
@@nick87s thanks so much! Yeah I mean the down side is not having a sight glass but that can be worked around.
Just subscribed. Thanks. Did you start as homebrewer? Did you had any sort of beer/fermentation diploma those are out there? Just curious to know.
anwering this on tomorrow livestream!
New to the channel... this is awesome
Thank you! Please share with your beer loving friends!
Nice vid. Could it be better to switch your 70% isopropyl alcohol to ethyl alcohol? Just for principle.
Thanks! Great question, they both work, but iso seems to be pretty standard, and what my chemical supplier carries.
Thanks for the info! My only source of confusion is, do you set the regulator to the target PSI + wetting pressure, or do you set the regulator to wetting pressure and use the Zahm & Nagel to wait until it’s at the target PSI + wetting pressure? Admittedly I don’t understand the physics side of this. Thanks again
Answering this on the may 5 livestream
When is your can carb video coming out?
I was just thinking about that. I had the cans warm for three weeks. Just put them in the cooler a couple days ago. I want to give them time to settle out as much as possible. Maybe I can get the video out in late July.
When is the can carb video coming?
I was just thinking about that. I had the cans warm for three weeks, and got them in the cooler a couple days ago. I’m thinking I will keep them cold for a couple of weeks giving the yeast a chance to settle a bit. I will check them out then and see if it is a good time to shoot the tasting/comparison. If it goes well maybe in late July.
I learned so much with your channel Adam, thanks again
Out the curiosity why you prefer forced carbonation over "naturally" carbonation? not debating here I am just asking the Head Brewer why? is because the tanks at your brewery, etc?
Thank again
Thank you! Great question. You absolutely can do natural carbonation and carry that process out a couple of different ways. Force carbonation is fast tho. For my standard ales I use that method. For my lagers I am increasingly putting them under head pressure during the lager to get more of my carb that way. Am I making sense?
@@adammakesbeer yes, thanks
@@adammakesbeer forgot to ask, well maybe is a silly question: Did you ferment under pressure?
@@Ken79Vampy No I don’t. It is something that I have considered messing with tho. It’s an interesting variable.
Another great video! How do you know how long to carbonate for? I’m assuming there’s some kind of formula…..
Thanks for the question! For me, I just wait until I hit the goal PSI per the temperature of the beer. My brite is usually at 33 degrees F, so my pressure gauge will typically need to be at 8 or 9 in order to have my desired level of carbonation. That usually occurs over the course of four to five hours. Does that answer your question?
@@adammakesbeer yeah awesome thanks!
@@adammakesbeer when you say "wait until you hit your goal PSI" does that mean the pressure gauge on your CIP arm matches the goal PSI? I realize this is an old video/comment.
@@jennifercorrigalsmith2245 Yup!
Thank you so much! I think I've watched your videos like 100 times. haha.@@adammakesbeer
Give us some B Roll of actually doing these things! The info if great, a little of the visuals would make these videos perfect.
I appreciate the feedback, I will keep trying to refine the process. Thank you!