Bathroom Remodel 72 - Tile Backer-to-Drywall Seam Scenarios | DensShield | Cement Board
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- Äas pĆidĂĄn 13. 05. 2021
- In this video, I walk through several scenarios on finishing DensShield tile backer-to-drywall seams. *These scenarios most likely apply to other tile backers - consult the product manufacturer's instructions or contact technical support*
**Special note: Scenario 4 is a tricky one because of each product's composition; DensShield is more like a drywall than a cement-based product, which is why I chose it for my situation.
Example: An analyst at James Hardie mentioned that a joint compound is fine to use at seams where it meets drywall well outside the wet area, BUT the tape should be alkali-resistant because Hardiebacker is a cement-based product; other tapes will break down over time. He recommended wetting the board slightly to minimize the amount of moisture sucked out of the joint compound by the Hardiebacker. **
Setting compounds that can be easily sanded, such as USG Easy Sand, are not recommended for skim coating DensShield, and they most likely are not recommended for skim coating other products: www.jlconline.com/how-to/exte...
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Disclosure: This video contains affiliate links, meaning, at no additional cost to you, I will receive a commission if you click through and make a purchase. - Jak na to + styl
Questions about how to finish the seams come up a lot, and I was a bit confused myself while researching this topic. Hopefully, this video will be useful.
**Scenario 4: ** The one caveat in this video is scenario 4 when finishing joints well outside the wet area like the right wall in my bathroom. Since DensShield is not a cement-based product, I have the luxury of using a joint compound and mesh tape. Cement-based backers may require an alkali-resistant tape - **check with the backer manufacturer's tech support for proper guidance. **
For example, here's some Info I got from James Hardie's tech support: Joint compound is fine to use at seams where it meets drywall well outside the wet area, *BUT* the tape should be alkali-resistant because Hardiebacker is a cement-based product; other tapes will break down over time. He recommended wetting the board slightly to minimize the amount of moisture sucked out of the joint compound by the Hardiebacker.
Setting compounds that can be easily sanded, such as USG Easy Sand, are not recommended for skim coating DensShield, and they most likely are not recommended for skim coating other backers: www.jlconline.com/how-to/exteriors/painting-densshield_o
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Click to Subscribe! âș bit.ly/2pEBg3mâ
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âŹâŹTools and MaterialsâŹâŹ
ïž DIY Apprentice Recommended Tools and Materials âș bit.ly/2T5psFwâ
ïž Laticrete Hydro Ban âș amzn.to/2Re9E6xâ
ïž Laticrete Hydro Ban Adhesive and Sealant âș amzn.to/3mtMMvsâ
ïž Custom Building Products Prolite Thin-Set âș amzn.to/3fVWgOuâ
ïž Schluter All-Set âș amzn.to/3uuRr2Kâ
ïž Schluter Kerdi Mixing Valve Seal âș amzn.to/3nuDMXbâ
ïž Schluter Kerdi Pipe Seal (3/4") âș amzn.to/2QD4W2dâ
ïž Schluter Kerdi Pipe Seal (1/2") âș amzn.to/3aMp09eâ
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**This video was recorded in 4K resolution, so modify your settings accordingly if desired for better image quality**
Disclosure: This video contains affiliate links, meaning, at no additional cost to you, I will receive a commission if you click through and make a purchase.
Thank you so so much. No one addresses ceiling and you have just killed it, sir.đđđđ
Thanks for checking out the video! Glad it was useful.
Thank you so much for the detailed Scenarios. I watched all of them and of course only one of them applies, but I know what to do now. So appreciate your help!!!
Glad it was useful. Thanks for watching!
Perfect, the scenario approach is what very few if any do⊠love it đȘ this is what I look for everywhere.
Glad it was useful. Thanks for checking out the video!
Thank you for the thorough examination of all the different scenarios with great visuals!
Thanks for checking out the video!
Excellent information, you answered clearly and confidently what others left out or skimmed over. Your on the right track.
Thanks a ton. Praying you do great buddy!
Glad the video was useful. Thanks for watching it!
Very helpful. Searched videos for days. You gave me the answer in scenario 4 and 5. New sub. Thank you for sharing.
Scenario 4 is a little tricky. I added some info to the pinned comment that might be useful. Thanks for subscribing!
Fantastic info man. A thousand thanks
Glad it was useful. Thanks for watching!
excellent video. exactly what I needed!
Great to hear. Thanks!
Thank you very very much. Your videos are well done.
Thanks for the kind words. Glad you enjoyed the video!
Damn! Great video and just what I was looking for!!
Great to hear! Thanks for watching the video.
Just what I needed to know!!!!đđ
Glad the video was useful. Thanks for watching!
Thanks for the video buddy. I have to tile a shower for my grandpa and time is a huge factor so was not looking forward to using joint compound and primer taking up an extra day.
Glad you found the video useful. Thanks for watching!
Excellent man thank you. This is EXACTLY what I need to know. Butting my tile backer up to existing wood lath and plaster. so looks like I mesh tape and thinset that joint, then tile with my bullnose to that region. Only need to know what to use on the plaster side of the bullnose to paint? Do I use the skim coat in that area for the purpose of then painting? Thanks a ton! Jeff
I'm not an expert, but my understanding is that if the plaster is in good shape and outside the wet area, you can just skim coat the region beyond the bullnose with joint compound. Hopefully, I understood your question correctly.
@@DIYApprentice yea you did. Plaster is solid at the joint. I was going to overlay drywall over that wall but that requires I keep the plasterninbthe tub area so my cement board flushes out with the drywall. That's just getting too think at the tub flange and my tile will darn near be at the radius going down into the tub.
Much appreciated, really needed the breakdown of different scenarios that other videos leave out. My situation is similar to Scenario 4, where my backer board ended further than I actually want to tile. One question I have is, elsewhere I've seen people say that the joint compound won't work on the cement board (mine is 1/2" hardie) without causing issues, however my seam will be well outside of the splash zone, so is this fine?
Scenario 4 is a tricky one because of each product's composition, so I added a note to the pinned comment; DensShield is more like a drywall than a cement-based product, which is why I chose it for my situation. An analyst at James Hardie mentioned that a joint compound is fine to use at seams where it meets drywall well outside the wet area, **BUT** the tape should be alkali-resistant because Hardiebacker is a cement-based product; other tapes will break down over time. He recommended wetting the board slightly to minimize the amount of moisture sucked out of the joint compound by the Hardiebacker. Also, my understanding is that Hardiebacker is not quite 1/2" thick, so you may have to shim behind it to mate up to the drywall. Hope this helps. Thanks for the question - learned something myself đ
@@DIYApprentice Really appreciate the quick reply, we'll see how we go!
FYI: a non-absorbent surface/backer board must extend to a minimum 72" above the drain flange
Do you have a source? Thanks.
Using Google, the text appears to come from IPC.417.4.1.
That was very useful! I wish I'd found this video earlier. Is there any scenario in which the thin-set, mesh tape, and aquadefense would extend 2-3 inches PAST the tile onto the finished wall? I ask because that's how my shower was tiled, and the tilers are telling me to skim the area with joint compound and paint it. However, the drywall was newly installed and painted days before they started. I'm not sure if there was a reason to do it like this, or if the tilers just misjudged how far they planned to bring the tile and I should be asking them to fix it..
You may be able to skim coat over the membrane. I would contact the product manufacturer's tech support, if you know which product was used, to verify. Thanks for checking out the video!
@@DIYApprentice Thanks for your response! I do know that's the solution. I just wasn't sure if the mess was necessary, or if the installers made a mistake and I needed to ask them to fix it.
@institches27 It's not typical to have liquid membrane on the exposed drywall.
@@DIYApprentice Thank you!
My drywall is 1/2 thick, hardieboard is .42 inch thick, what do I need to do about that? I'm planning cover hardieboard only portion with tile. Thanks.
Yeah, I've heard about issues with Hardibacker not being 1/2" thick, which is why I crossed it off my list when I started shopping. You could try using drywall shims or cut slices of 2x material on a table saw...or exchange it for a different tile backer if that's still an option.
Also, do you prefer Hardiebacker over Durock Cement Board? Thx again!
My experience with backer materials is very limited. Depending on the abutting material, the Hardibacker may need to be shimmed, since it isn't quite 1/2" thick. Durock is fairly heavy, and it appears to be harder to cut than Hardiebacker. I've seen that Durock is usually less expensive. Personally, I would use Durock on shower walls.
Is it ok to tile over drywall and mud over backer board?
If the drywall is in the shower, I would check out a product like Kerdi. Outside the shower, tile can be installed on drywall.
There's some info in the description and pinned comment that may be useful regarding mud and backer board.
why cant you use drywall under the shower tile? is there something special about backerboard?
A product like Kerdi could be applied over drywall as a protective membrane. Otherwise, it's best to install a product that is less likely to trap moisture, and many of the tile backers need some sort of moisture barrier behind or in front. DensShield, which is the product I installed, has a moisture-resistant membrane on its face. This video may be useful: czcams.com/video/ECFTgrgX-CM/video.html