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Kenmore Gas Dryer Not Heating - How to Fix - DIY
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- čas přidán 9. 03. 2018
- danthefixitman....
amzn.to/3Z5eMHC - same thermal fuse I used in this video from Amazon.
amzn.to/3plnAx7 - AstroAI Multimeter Tester 2000 Counts Digital Multimeter with DC AC Voltmeter and Ohm Volt Amp Meter ; Measures Voltage, Current, Resistance; Tests Live Wire, Continuity
amzn.to/3PBxSDG - 3392519 Dryer Thermal Fuse (3 Pack) Replacement for Whirlpool WP3392519 Replaces Part # AP6008325 3388651 694511
amzn.to/44lzHZK - MALCO MSHMLC 4-inch Cleanable Reversible 1/4-inch and 5/16-inch Hex Driver (1-Pack)
amzn.to/3prZqAO - DEWALT 20V Max Cordless Drill / Driver Kit, Compact, 1/2-Inch (DCD771C2), Yellow
amzn.to/3pBuQES - Wera - 5105650001 Kraftform Plus 334/6 Screwdriver Set with Rack and Lasertip, 6-Pieces
Just a quick video showing how to fix a Kenmore 80 Series Gas Dryer that runs but will not heat up. This ended up being caused by the thermal fuse that was bad. The clogged vent hose and dirty lint screen vent/housing caused it to overheat and fail.
You will need:
a Multimeter set on Ohms
a 1/4" nut driver and/or drill or other type of wrench to remove the back panel.
A small blade screwdriver or other tool to remove the vent hose.
Thanks for watching!
Please Subscribe!
-Dan the Fix it Man
www.danthefixitman.org
www.amazon.com/shop/danthefixitman
This video is intended for entertainment and informational purposes only. Any repairs you make are your responsibility. I am not liable for any damages to you or your vehicle or your property.
As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases.
We did it! I convinced my girlfriend to get behind the dryer (I COULD have fit but) and she followed the instructions and replaced the old fuse, vacuumed the duct-works and...
...voila! The dryer is drying again! Those of you a little shy about tools, my girlfriend is NOT the greatest with hand tools by any means. She did a fine job none the less! She's the greatest!
It’s definitely better than buying a Samsung dryer. Samsung appliances seem to be made to last 4 years
the fact you showed the ignitor glowing BEFORE but no solenoid click is important. so many people just think its the flame sensor or solenoids first. check all the fuses!
Great video. All the fuses checked out with continuity. I put it back together, plugged it back in, and voila! it's now working. I think that it must have been the first step that fixed it! Unplugging it and plugged it back in... LOL...
Thought you might like to know this is still helpful four years after you first posted it. My dryer was running but not getting hot. I don't have a multimeter and thought it was worth a shot to try replacing the thermal fuse as you described rather than spending the money for a meter. I don't like calling repair guys to my home when I can avoid it. Plus I'm just getting over COVID and didn't want to risk exposing anyone. Did I mention that it cost me $8.18 for the part and same day shipping from Amazon? Once you account for the 25 cents in change and three fancy buttons I found behind the dryer, I figure I'm only in $7.48. The floor behind my dryer has never been cleaner (it was gross!) and I couldn't be more pleased that your video helped me fix it myself. Thank you!
Damn it! I fixed this last week by replacing the fuse and it's running cold again. Will pick up a multimeter and check the temperature switches. The vent hose is clear but I'll triple check it and see if I can get the back cover for the vent screen all the way off this time. I fished out a thin sheet of lint from there..maybe I missed some. Nothing is glowing when I look through the front access hole - same as last time - but she fired right up once the new fuse was in. Only lasted one or two cycles though. The replacement fuse was BlueStars brand ordered from Amazon. I ordered another pack (two this time). Happy for any additional feedback...and that I already cleaned behind there last week!
Thank you. Thank you. This video was perfect. My thermal fuse was the culprit. Replaced it for $5 and now the dryer works. No repairman needed.
You saved me $150 just to get the repair guy to show up plus whatever else he charged. Easy and straightforward education that made it quick as easy to repair…. And it only cost $15 for the part local. Thank you for the help. 🎉
I so appreciate walking through ALL the parts and how to use the multimeter so I wasn't left guessing. 15 minutes and $15 from the local parts store. Amazon had three fuses for $6 but I needed my dryer back today. I perfect tutorial.
Dan, My Kenmore 500 series dryer would run but not heat. I know nothing about voltmeters.
Your tutorial was EXCELLENT!! I got a voltmeter with the audio. By the time I got to that thermal fuse and saw it was shot, I felt like laughing out loud!!
Your video couldn't have been better or simpler. Thank you so much!
I subscribed!
@@rockinroll817 Love it! So happy to hear you got it fixed!
Thanks for subscribing!
Take care,
Dan
Continuity pen $8, Thermal fuse $12, and a few screws.... thank you for this video!! I was able to fix my dryer for a very small cost. You're the real MVP brother!! Lol
Thank you Roy!
Glad you got it fixed.
Take care,
-Dan the Fix it Man
Thank you for a great video! My husband was busy, so I was able to watch your video and diagnose the problem!!! We ordered the part and he put it back to together!!! We are back in business. I appreciate your help!!!
Thank you. Great information. In my case the element never lit. The thermal fuse was blown. Your video saved me a service technician coming out. Well shown and explained.
Easy. TY from my friends widow
This was great. Followed it exactly. Come to find out it wasn’t the fuse but the vertical lint trap was full! Cleaned all the crud out and now works like a charm! Thanks again!
Subscribed!
Dan--I have a series 70 Kenmore, but this video was perfect in every respect. Got back there (not easy for me), took off the back, grabbed the multimeter and next thing you know, my dryer is back in operation. I think the fuse blew because it's too damn hot and it was a cleaning day and we were running it non-stop.
Sent you ten bucks to your Venmo--least I can do.
So nice of you! Yes, I got the Venmo, thank you so much! Glad to hear you got it figured out!
Take care,
-Dan
Thanks! Well shot, well explained and saved me the $125 "diagnostic fee" I was going to have to pay! Thanks again
Thanks man, my multi meter was shot but I gambled on the thermal fuse.... just replaced it and it works! Saved me some $ at a time I can’t spare any!
I did the basic check. Pulled it out, removed the hose, it was clogged. Then turned it on. And still blowing cold.
So will do continuity test next. Then find out which part is bad.
Thanks, fir such a direct, and infirmary video.
Thanks Dan, this really helped save us a lot of money. Just took a little time and about $5 to get us up and running again.
No problem, So glad to hear that my video helped you out!
Dude! Thanks for the video! All my fuses checked out as good. I took off the dryer vent panel that went to the blower. Yikes! Full of lint. I did clean it up with water and dried it in the sun. Put it back together and turned it on and it heated up quick! I think the clog was the issue! Saved me $750 bucks for a new one!
I believe the 3 "limit" switches are self-resetting. They will only open when the dryer is in use and overheating. Checking them cold will show them closed but not show whether they are opening when hot and shutting down the heat.
Dan, thank you very much for this useful video. I followed every step of the video and got my dryer working perfectly again.
Thanks a million! Everything was exact 👍. One word of caution though: the metal edges of the lint trap container are extremely sharp. I sliced my finger working it out, but found the fur ball at the bottom of the opening to the exhaust that caused the over temp.
You’re the best! Thanks for reviewing all the limit switches and possible causes. You made the diagnostics and repair simple.
Glad my video helped you Scott!
Thanks for watching!
-Dan the Fix it Man
Thank you for the video. I had the exact same problem you showed in the video. You made it easy to diagnose and fix. Much appreciation!
Glad to hear you got it fixed! Happy to hear my video was helpful!
Take care,
-Dan
Thank you very much. One thing I would like to share is using corrugated flexible aluminum exhaust duct. In many jurisdictions it is not to code, and for good reasons. The plain ductwork is not that expensive, and is worth every penny.
20 min. after watching this video it was fixed. You nailed it. Now I just have to wait for thermal fuse to get here.
Nice clear and simple description of diagnostic steps. Thank you
Walt is exactly right on - EXCELLENT video! Thank you Dan!!!!!
Quickest and easiest fix ever, thanks to this Dan the FIXIT man video. Works great now!
Thank you so much for adding this video, you saved me over over 100 dollars. My problem was thermo fuse, 14 dollar part in town and problem fixed.
Glad to hear you saved some money Juan!
Thanks for watching!
Take care,
Dan the Fix it Man
Very informative and helpful. Mine was the metal vent assembly had debris in the bottom, restricting the blower and therefore the motor itself.
Cleaned everything including the motor with contact cleaner. Works for now. Hoping I dont have to go back in there and replace the motor.
Great video! Very helpful! One question... what if once in a while the solenoid still opens and the flame comes on, but then it also fails as well (more often than not)? Could a bad thermal fuse allow the flame to occasionally kick on? I would really appreciate your thoughts on this. Thanks!
Thanks so much. Great video and thanks for the multimeter refresher that helped so much! unfortunately I have now narrowed it down to the heating element. All fuses and thermal fuse has continuity. Dryer is 23 years old. Changed out thermal fuse a few years ago. hopefully the element is the culprit. If not time for a new used Kenmore 80 series if I can find one. :)
Great video. I’m actually surprised that the thermal fuse allows it to even start and energize the igniter. Usually when the thermal fuses fail they shut down the entire machine. Seems like a waste knowing that the thermal fuse is blown and still trying to ignite from a design perspective. As a recommendation any time you can replace the gas coils on the gas solenoid go ahead and do it. They’re like 10 bucks they’re easy to replace and they fail intermittently and are hard to diagnose. Replacing them is a great proactive maintenance while you’ve got the machine taken apart. So easy to replace couple of bolts they slide right in over some metal columns and will save you a lot of hassle on a gas dryer. Thanks for the video
Good recommendation, once i saw how cheap all the replacement parts were, i decided to go ahead and just change out everything as ive had it apart once years ago to change the belt and felt drum seal and removed and repaired and cleaned the entire exhaust duct assembly but didnt have any other problem. So this non heating deal just suddenly happened , a few dats ago it worked fine.
Figures.. my tv picture went out and ive got to fix it and haven't had time. Lol
So best idea since this thing is so old to just go ahead and replace all the different fuses and safeties and igniter and gas valve solenoids.
I really wished id done the burner parts when i had the entire drum out last. I thought then i should do it but i couldn't wait anylonger to get it back in action as we were backing up a lot of stuff needing cleaned. I need to take time to put in my clothesline poles.
This is great! I haven't tried it yet but have no doubt that it will work. Very clear instructions.
Thanks man , I have a Amana gas dryer and mine got real hot than mine just blew so I have mine on order . Mine looks like your Kenmore . Thanks a lot at least I don't have to buy a new dryer . I had alot of lint in my trap and hose too , my daughter is always doing laundry and she doesn't clean even the pull out trap out . Very nice and well done video , Thanks man !!
Super helpful. Better than any other video I found. Cheers!
Well done! It was hard to find info on our old gas dryer. Thank you!
My elderly mother has the same exact dryer. The igniter does NOT glow at all BUT the igniter tested good. It has full continuity. So, it is possible that one of the sensors or fuses in the back of the dryer that you tested in the video
would prevent the igniter from coming on? Or what else could it be. It is late and I am just trying to figure this out so I can start testing more tomorrow. Will check back tomorrow in case you got to see this
That was a great video. I am going to give it a try now! I will let you know how it went.
Just helped me troubleshoot mine. Didn’t have a multimeter, so I just jumped the two wires and it fired up. Thanks
You're the Man. Yup, mines a busted Thermal Fuse. Hope I ordered the right part #.
Hey Dan. My Kenmore dryer Heats and for half the day then is cold the next cycle of loads. Makes a clicking noise I noticed. I'm thinking Thermal Fuse but what is the clicking? It blowing it somehow? Was replaced last year? Not understanding? Any ideas in your experience?
I have the same problem. Heats and drys one load but not the next. Replaced the solenoids but still have this exact same issue. Would appreciate any update or suggestions.
Great video. Very well explained. My dryer makes warm but not hot air . Not blocked with lint anywhere. Any ideas. Cant afford to buy a new dryer now. Having said that its almost 20 years old so maybe cant be fixed.
Dan the fix it man. I just cleaned out the dryer and checked the fuses like you showed and they all checked out as ok. Once cleaned, I turned the dryer on and it heated up quickly but I had no clothes in the dryer.
I just ran a load in the washer and put them in the dryer. The dryer ignitor lit up but the gas valve did not open to heat the dryer.
Any ideas as to why it worked with out clothes and not it is not with clothes?
Excellent DIY video for this dryer!
Thanks,
Gabe
Hi Dan. What does it mean when you look through the hole and see no orange glow? Pilot light not working?
Good question 🤔, no answer after 6 months
most likely
bad ignitor and/or. bad flame sensor....
@@irocitZ For me, It was still the thermal fuse.
Don't know why the orange igniter didn't come on but after taking apart the back and cleaning everyrthing up and testing all the components, the thermal fuse was indeed the issue.
I jumped a wire across the thermal fuse to see if it would ignite and it did. Granted, my Kenmore 80 is slightly different than the one in the video (only 1 high limit switch as opposed to 2).
Thank you for a concise and informative video. If I may ask one question can you put those wires on backwards as far as the fuses. I guess I am referring to a car battery post scenario. For instance the red wire was on the top male prong and you accidentally put it on the bottom male prong of the same fuse does that affect anything. After watching this video I am going to attempt to figure out why my daughter's was 70 series gas dryer does not get hot. This was a big help. She also informed me that she started the dryer and went to bed around 10 p.m. and woke up the next morning to get her uniform out and the dryer was still running so I'm guessing some sort of a timer issue with the knob on the left the big knob and I'll have to research that
You are the best , save me from spending $ I was about to buy a new dryer
Thank you , thank you!!!!!!!
Yes, EXCELLENT video. Solved my problem as well. Thank you very much!!!!!
Thank you Walt!
Glad to hear my video helped you out.
Take care,
-Dan the Fix it Man
Thank you for all the clear steps.
You saved me a ton of money!!! Thank you!
Thanks for your help. Saved me some and gave me satisfaction of fixing myself. 👍
Thank you for taking the time to make this video... You are awesome and have helped me immensely!
This worked, thank you! Great excuse to clean the dryer vent as well
Glad to hear that it worked!
-Dan
Tested everything and all is good, tested igniter which tests good also, does not glow, I'm stumped, it is an older Kenmore that never gave me trouble, what am I missing?
Try the Gas Valve Ignition Solenoid
Thanks Dan for this Excellent Video!!
Great instructional video, my 80 series pilot light keeps coming on and shutting off, do you think that could be the same issue?
Thanks for making this video you save me a ton of money
Thank you very much Dan for helping me replace the thermal fuse on my dryer could not have done it with out you you are the man 👍
I have the same dryer but my ignitor is not coming on do I need a new one or do I do the same testing as you did.
I would still test all that I tested in the video, but it would also be a good idea to do a simple igniter continuity test to verify that the igniter is still good. czcams.com/video/2i3bCKAWu50/video.html
I found this video that shows an easy way to test it.
Thanks for watching!
Best of luck to you.
-Dan the Fix it Man
Thanks for your video I got my own dryer back up and running.
thanks for explaining a simple DIY fix.
You’re welcome! Thank you for watching.
Take care,
Dan the Fix it Man
Thank you man! Fixed in 20 minutes.
Is there a possibility of the timer, dryer cycle thermostat, & the dial going bad at the same time??
Thank you, very well done and easy to follow.
If either the high limit or dryer outlet temperature thermal fuse fails , the corresponding cycling "Thermostat" or cycling "High limit" protector next to it "must" also be changed , as either cycling thermostats should have opened and cut off the heat before it it reached a high enough temp to blow the thermal fuse, As said its always a restricted air flow issue that seeds the failure of either thermostat by forcing them to cycle hundreds of times , if they fail in a manor that causes the either cycling thermostat to fail to open , the thermal fuse is there as a safety to prevent serious thermal runway .
Fixed my dryer thanks to you 🫶🏼
Thank you so much for the well explain video.
Thanks again Dan for the video. What happens if the machine doesn’t light up at all when you turn it on? It it’s only the thermal fuse that doesn’t have continuity in the back?
Great video 👍🏼. Going to do diagnostic on my dryer 🙏🏼
Thanks for the video! I have a question, i replace same part it works for 30 minutes and again no heat!
Hi Hector,
It is important to make sure you clear any blockage in the dryer vent system as that might be causing the thermal fuse to blow. Make sure to check the ducting and/or ventilation to outside as well to make sure there's no blockage there.
Best of luck to you!
-Dan the Fix it Man
I changed the thermal fuse on mine and cleaned the vent hose and screen but still not heating. Heats at first then the flame goes out. Then it glows for a bit then nothing. Could it be the igniter?
If the igniter glows but the burner doesn't ignite, then at least you know the igniter and igniter circuit is good. If the igniter glows and then fades away, it's probably the gas valve coils. If the igniter glows for more than 5 minutes, it could be the flame sensor not working properly. There's lots of videos on here that show how to test and replace both.
Thanks for watching!
-Dan the Fix it Man
I have same issue, after few minutes flames turned off..
Thank you sir. Great video.
You saved me a ton of money. Thanks for the video.
THANKS DAN-YOU THE MAN!!!!
NO MORE SOGGY BOXERS!!!! 😆
lol same here
I got a kenmore 600 gas dryer. The back panel looks the same from the outside haven’t actually opened it up though. Do u know if they are the same?
Anonymous yes mines 400 and looks like his
Thanks for posting this! Sending a virtual HI five.
What's the hose/pipe on the bottom under the back panel? not the duct
I replaced the thermal fuse and then the dryer heated up. My vent was not clogged. It was clean and open. I saw the flame through the little door. Shut the dryer off. Washed some towels and threw them in the dryer thinking it was fixed. Dryer flame did not come on and dryer did not heat. So what do I check now?
Awesome video, but be careful using that harbor fright cheapo meter. I've had them show the wrong amounts in the readout.
Hi Dan.....Great video pulled the square plug in front and NO FIRE. I removed the back and tested the uppers and they were find.....YES the Thermal fuse was bad. WILLL THE BAD THERMAL FUSE CAUSE THE FRINT FIRE / IGNITER NOT TO WORK?
Yes
OFF TO GET A NEW FUSE AND LETS SEE IF THE BAD BOY WILL FIRE UP AGAIN. THANK YOU DAN :) @@DantheFixitMan
$7.50 later I now have a prefectly good dryer up and running. A HUGE THANK YOU TO DAN FOR SHAING HIS KNOWLEDGE AND INFO. I am religious about cleaning the lint trap after every load. From now on....every year that back panel will come off and blow out all the lint. could not believe how much there was. cheers to all :) @@DantheFixitMan
@@warriorlabz4045 So happy to hear you got it fixed! Thanks for letting me know. I appreciate your nice comments as well.
Take care,
-Dan
What if you check all the parts and they ha e continuity, the solenoid kicks on and there’s a flame but still no heat?
I read in a forum about someone with the same problem and it turned out to be the door switch. Check that too.
Dan how do I know what part number to ask for
I have the same model as in the video
I checked the hole and the ignitior came on but then went back out...is that the ignitor or the fuse? I bought the dryer from a guy 8 years ago who told me he put a new ignitor on it.
same issue here, did you figure out how to solve?
Thank you for this video ... I am using it to repair my Kenmore Gas Dryer. When checking the elements how do you know it is good ... it is just because there is some kind of input? or does it need to be a certain number?
Thanks for the big save! You da man!
Great video and it fixed my issue! thank you!!
@@jimgottberg1975 glad to hear!
Take care,
-Dan
Hello, what if I don't see the ignitor glowing? (1st step in video). Should I still go through the other steps?
It’s possible that you just have a bad igniter. There’s lots of videos on here that show how to do a simple continuity test to see if the igniter is bad. It’s just a little harder to get to.
Best of luck to you.
-Dan the Fix it Man
Great video Dan, Thank you!!!
Just did this fix. Great video. Thanks!
Thank you Dan! I have the exact model and the exact problem. Your fix was perfect.
Just purchased a house with this exact drier and exact problem: Runs but no heat.
I checked what you mentioned in your video. All of them showing good and still no flames. I did see flames 1 time this morning but cannot get it to work again. Any ideas what it could be? I cleaned out all venting like your mentioned. It now has more air flow. This house sat dormant for 3 years before I purchased it (short sale). I don't understand flames this morning 1 time but not now. Any ideas???? Im lost at this point.
Keep going down the line for sequence of operations.. check igniter with continuity, if good move to gas valve. Looks like he has links to the igniter and gas valve coils under the video. Also let's not forget to make sure we have a gas supply to the actual dryer itself.
@@joeoreilly5915
I searched other vids and found the solenoids on the gas valve near the igniter was the problem. I ordered 2 new in a set from sears, pulled front off, belt, drum, replaced solenoids, put back together, tested and works perfectly... Thank you so much for your reply... I am mechanically inclined. When I have never worked on something, I search youtube for answers and I can fix things myself... I love this about youtube...
Also, Dan the Fixit Man, thank you so much for putting up a great HOW TOO vid. I cannot thank you enough. I love this about youtube. If I ever come across something I fixed, I will be sure to post a vid about it in hopes to help someone out there in the youtube world.
@@dmartinnj No problem! I had the exact same thing happen to my Kenmore about 2 weeks ago. Changed the solenoids, $18, and it works like a charm. Beats buying a new dryer!!
Trying to figure out how to get to the pilot light on the Kenmore series 80. I have the back off.
There is not a pilot light on this dryer. It uses a hot surface igniter.
Did you turn off the gas before starting?
Thank you so much! Excellent advice. You directed me right to my problem!
Perfect. Well done video and tutorial. Thanks for helping me save some $$$$
If it's lighting, but then the flame turns off, could this be the thermal fuse shutting it off cos it's either bad, or a lint blockage in the exhaust is causing it to trip?
That is most likely the gas coils. Here's a video on how to test and replace them: czcams.com/video/b08iUTzpncc/video.htmlsi=_wUJaAj5wXx1lUTF
@@DantheFixitMan thank you very much!
I think you're right. I completely cleaned the insides out and it still shuts the flame off after about 10 minutes. I can see the thermocouple glowing, but it won't ignite the propane. I'll check out the link for the coils. God bless you for helping people with this stuff! Very much appreciated. 🙏
Thanks for the video. I checked all three of these for continuity and they all had continuity. Why else might my dryer not be getting hot?
Could be the solenoid coils not opening, or a bad igniter. (There's other videos on here on how to test them).
Best of luck to you.
-Dan the Fix it Man
Great video. It solved my problem…
Hey Dan. Watched your video. Found thermal fuse on mine was bad. Replaced it and now works. Also replaced belt after pulling drum to clean the entire machine which was full of lint. Works like new. Same vintage (15 yrs old) Kenmore washer is making noises starting up and when working. Banging noises. Thoughts on that? Many thanks.
In my dryer, ignitor turned on and flame but after few minutes it shuts off. What could be wrong? Dryer cycles never finishes due to that.
same issue here, did you figure out what it was?
Thank you, thank you, thank you, Just saved a lot of money