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Fixing Foundation Cracks From The Outside: How It's Done
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- čas přidán 20. 03. 2022
- In this blog video, we review the technique for repairing a Foundation Crack from the Exterior of your Foundation. There is a certain technique that will ensure a Lifetime Warranty against seepage from that crack. There are also techniques to avoid so that the crack does not leak again.
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Not Everything’s Better When Wet!
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Well explained and drawn up from 2 view points! Great job, helped me understand the whole process!
Happy to help, thanks so much!
“Where not everything is better when wet” 💀
Sold. Take my money sir.
Hahaha thank you!
Love this video
Thank so much @lakenbanks9426!
Thank you for this video! If epoxy can be done from the inside, do you recommend doing any repairs from the outside?
Hello! If you are able to get the crack from the inside, there is no need for repair on the outside.
However, if there are finishings/chimneys/furnaces/etc in the way of the crack that prevents you from doing a proper interior repair, we would then recommend an exterior solution.
Which elastomeric tar do you recommend from form local big box store like Menards, Lowe’s and homedepot. Can I use 10mil plastic sheeting to protect the tar? Thank for your help! This is rhetorical best waterproofing video that I’ve found!
Hi Gonzo, thanks so much!
The tar we use comes from a commercial supplier. There are numerous brands available in the big box stores. As long as it is a good product, the biggest thing to worry about is prepping the foundation properly.
Be sure to dig to and clean off the footing. Scrape the whole area to get any dirt/dust/debris off the wall. Brush it clean. Then apply the hydraulic cement, seal with tar, and put the plastic sheeting over it.
10 mil can work, but you need to be careful because that thin of a membrane can tear with rocks and dirt as you tamp the dirt back into the hole. I'd recommend a bit thicker, at least 14 mil or a foam insulation board.
Is this superior to the epoxy injection method? Seems like in an environment where there's frequent heat/cold contraction that tar stuff isn't going to prevent movement only seal things. The injected epoxy has a tensile strength of 9000psi I believe.
Great question!
Both of them come with a Lifetime Warranty. That is because both methods work.
The elastomeric (stretchy) properties of the tar allows it to flex during the heat/cold cycles, allowing the seal to stay in place. This method stops water from ever entering the crack.
The epoxy method fills the crack with epoxy, eliminating the pathway for water to enter through the crack.
Mainly, people choose between the two based on access. If there is a lot of stuff in the way on the inside, an exterior repair makes more sense. But as the epoxy is less expensive and carries the same warranty, that is the standard method for repairing cracks when you have the access from the inside.
Hope this helps!
@@Therealsealllc Thanks for the reply!
@@sayless9937 Anytime!
Could you please tell me what brand of waterproofing tar you use? Great Video....Thank You!
Hello! We use an elastomeric waterproofing tar only available to contractors. However, most elastomeric tars will do the job as long as it is installed correctly.
The most essential thing is to clean the foundation well so the tar adheres well. We'll have a new video detailing these steps soon!
Thank you@@Therealsealllc
You bet!@@mtrctylarry
Do you put the foam board on while it's still wet?
Yes. Because we backfill right away, the foam board protects that wet seal while we back fill and it dries.
What do you suggest to prevent the crack from getting bigger? Especially, in a scenario where the crack is through the foundation wall from the top to the bottom footing.
Most all cracks are through the entire foundation wall top to the bottom of the footing. While injecting cracks or sealing them from the outside will waterproof them, if a crack is actively getting bigger, it means there is an underlying structural issue.
If the wall is moving inwards, it will require Carbon Fiber or Wall Plates to repair. if the wall is settling downward, it will require Push or Helical Piers to stop that movement.
You can reinforce cracks with carbon fiber stitching, but that will not hold the entire wall. Check out our Carbon Fiber, Wall Pushback, and Piering Videos for more info!
Can I torch bitumen membrane over the wet tar?
There are many ways to waterproof structures. We don't torch bitumen membranes, so wouldn't be the best people to ask about that process.
Over our tar seal, we typically lay an thread-reinforced poly sheeting. We also will use insulation board.
The main purpose is to protect the tar while backfilling.
Can you please detail how you prep the crack for the hydraulic cement repair? Do you have to open the crack up? If so how much and whats the best tool? And is Xypex patch’n plug a good product to use?
Thank you so much for your informative content! Much appreciated 😊
Hello "Theflood1000" thanks for the question!
On the outside, you want to chip away some of the crack and clean it out with a steel wire brush to clean all the dirt/debris off of it.
Then you can mix the hydraulic cement and patch it. From there, you may need other products like an elastomeric tar and/or waterproof barrier.
Unfortunately we haven't used that specific product to which you are referring, so we couldn't tell you if it's good or bad. Your local hardware supplier will be able to show you their recommended product.
I was wondering if you could help me with a question I dug around my foundation to the footing I am putting new cement around my foundation so I decided to waterproof it. What do you recommend to put on the walls about 4 feet down to the footing? Do you also recommend the boards?
Hi Bill!
What's the purpose of the new cement around your foundation?
For waterproofing purposes, you want to do a waterproofing elastomeric tar on the surface of the foundation and on top of the footing. Over that, you want a min 14 mil vapor barrier.
Next to the footing you should install a solid-walled perforated Drain Tile System that leads to a pit inside the house. After that your foundation in that area will be waterproofed.
I currently have a leak coming through the foundation where the sewer pipe penetrates the house. This pipe buried around 2 feet underground. Do you recommend the same process? Employee at Home Depot recommended an application of expanding polyurethane between the pipe and concrete from the outside. I would greatly appreciate any advice anyone can give me.
Hi Pepe!
Either way will work. Typically, we inject polyurethane epoxy from the interior for pipe penetrations through a foundation.
This is due to the low cost and efficiency of the job. We can get that done in about 1.5 hours, leaving the area dry.
Digging it out costs more and takes longer, but will have the same result, the leak should cease.
That tar steps seem to be an overkill? Don't you think the cement coating should be enough?
Hi @bijayshinghero. The 2nd plastic barrier is not to help with the waterproofing, but to protect the tar seal during back fill so it does not scrape off the wall. Without it, shovels or dirt could create weakness in the seal.
How long is the wait between the hydraulic concrete dry time and applying the tar?
It depends on how fast the hydraulic cement dries. A wetter mix will take longer, while a dryer mix will take less time. The indicator is when the hydraulic cement turns white, and visible signs of moisture have dried up.
@@Therealsealllc i covered the hole over night after applying the concrete, it set up but was still dark. So i took a heat gun and made it white. Then applied tar and the insulation and back filled.
@@deansheridan Sounds like you did it right!
What’s the proper way to backfill after fixing a crack from the outside? Are you suppose to add gravel on top or the bottom or the middle as you back fill?
Best way to backfill for a crack you excavated is with the same dirt you dug out. You'll want to tamp the dirt down with a manual or gas-powered tamper in order to fit the dirt back in there. No need for gravel at top and bottom.
@@Therealsealllcwrong! You back fill with pea gravel. Clay soil causes hydrostatic pressure on your foundation and it will cause more cracks just like the original
@@antd2733 If clay soil expanded to cause the crack and bow the wall in, the solution wouldn't be a seal from the outside, but a structural repair from the inside.
As we are talking simply about waterproofing, it is perfectly acceptable to fill the hole back in with the dirt you excavated. A 2' wide hole of pea gravel, where the rest of your foundation is surrounded with clay, will do nothing to stop pressure against the wall.
What if the water is leaking under the footing?
Hello! If water is leaking under the footing, you will need a Drain Tile System in order to solve that. Check it out here! czcams.com/video/1fqMyR859vY/video.htmlsi=8Uti6ngJ0LRCN5h-
Can I use white tar?
The color of the tar matters little. What you need is an elastomeric (still a bit stretchy when dried) tar. Prepping the area properly is the most important step. So be sure to clean off the wall with a wire brush well and brush any dust/debris off and allow to dry before applying the tar.
So ,i just can't put tar down to seal up open cracks in the foundation?? My basement has been founding for amount two years. Only if it rains hard and long.. i use to be able to put tar on tge open cracks
If you dig the cracks out, clean the wall, seal the crack with the tar, and then apply a membrane to hold that tar in place while you back fill, then yes, that will work to stop the water.
If you are just applying tar on the inside, no, that only works temporarily and the correct fix will be that much more expensive as the contractor will need to remove that tar first.
What is the name of the tar material or product that you mentioned in the video?
An elastomeric tar. You can find it in various varieties at big box or supply stores.
Having alot of water issues in my basement doesnt seem to be leaking from the walls but from the floor so im gonna have to dig the exterior to see the damage would liquid rubber work the same on the exterior walls / cold joint
Hi Madgrizz! If the water is coming from the floor, most likely you will need to install a Drain Tile System. Check out our Drain Tile Video to see more!
@@Therealsealllc thanks for the response, I have two sump pumps and an interior perimeter drain installed, unfortunately it's a gutter system that sits atop the footer with little to no pitch to the sump pit and doesn't do much. We also have iron an ochre issue so I have to flush the system periodically with a sewer jetter, thinking I need minimum 4" corrugated pipe sitting next to the footer connecting to those sumps but also need access to the drain system in order to unclog when necessary.
@@MaDGriZz78 Wow you certainly have been through the ringer with that home! You are correct, top-of-footer Drain Tiles are not adequate to keep your basement dry. They do make a lot more money for the contractor, but a lot less protection for you.
For Iron Ochre systems, we recommend installing a next-to-footer pitched solid-pipe Drain Tile System with cleanouts at each 90 degree turn.
This way, you can put in your flushing products easily and help keep the system as clear as possible.
Additionally, an Iron Ochre Pit (a smaller pit inside a larger pit to act like a septic system, separating the Iron Ochre and keeping it from damaging the sump pump) will help make the system last for longer before needing replaced.
All systems that are contaminated with Iron Ochre will need to be completely replaced eventually, depending on how bad the infection.
What does a repair like that typically cost?
Hi Brad! It all depends on the depth and if there is anything in the way. The deeper the dig, the larger the cost. Once we go below 5 ft, it requires more digging for osha as well as another person or a machine.
If there's an A/C or landscaping in the way, that will add to the cost as well.
Do you have a specific project/height/clearance in mind? We could get you in the ballpark with some more info.
@@Therealsealllc Thanks for your response. The repair would be about 5 feet deep. It is very similar conditions to your video demonstration.
@@bsvoight Of course! For a 5ft dig, you would be in the ballpark of 1,700 with a Lifetime Warranty. This will require the OSHA dig as we need to get by the footing, and would require 2 of our techs to complete.
I really wish you guys were local.
What kind of tar do you guys use? Would a high quality liquid rubber work as well?
Hi there! We use an industrial elastomeric (it stretches) waterproofing tar. A high quality liquid rubber could work as well as long as it has the waterproofing qualities.
Fixing just one crack, what is the average cost?
Depending on the size of the crack and access, it is typically $1,000-$3,000 per crack.
Where are you guys located? Im in nj
We are in Chicagoland
How about putting a canopy over the crack
Hi Abhi! A canopy over the crack we would consider a half-measure. The true issue is a gap in the foundation that needs to be repaired. At time of home sale, it will need to be done correctly.
Why not just fix the crack on the inside with injection resin?
We do, and the majority of our crack repairs are done from the inside. But some factors (chimneys, finishings, HVAC systems, etc) can prevent the repair from being done from the inside.
In those cases, we repair from the outside. This video is to show how that is completed.