You are right there Roger! Pop the drip edges off, clamp the rocker to the quarter in the bottom rear and lift the rear frame rails up 1/2" on both sides (between the jig and the rear reference points) and that will fit like a glove!!! You may have to free up a couple pins, but you are right there! Awesome work man. I would not cut the quarter until you remove the drip edges first. the drip edged is made to take up some of that tolerancing between the roof and the quarter. Remember, the drip edge is always one of the last things Jubee the Jedi Panel Master fits up and that ties it all together seam wise. BTW your new shop foreman is pretty cool! I will throw the laser on my body line today and let you know but I would not get real hug up on that rear body line and the laser. Don't think for a second that the body by fisher guys were ever as fussy as we are.
Im guessing you will need to unpin it, and massage the drip rail area. It looks very good. If you can get the quarter sitting flat on the rocker, that may be your 1/8 in. The door gap will just need to be worked later if it needs it. I sure hope my 72 fits that well. Id get the welder ready, its close. Nice work Roger.
I just put a straight edge on my tripod, a crude way to recreat your lazer line, it goes along the whole body line only when slightly lower than the line, if I move slightly up or down the body line ahead of front tire and after rear tire don't quite match up, probably due to the convex of the panel. Maybe try lazer at same height from floor as body line and only focus on between the tire openings. With a little over bending is might pull together. Also, many cars don't match the lines at the front and rear. Good luck
I always enjoy your videos. And definitely find this level of work interesting. I helped Jeff put in new floors and trunk pan in my 63 Belvedere… always wanted to try this stuff, don’t think I’ll ever do it again 😂🤣
Get the other door on and fit like the driver one. IF the gap does "opposite" or, rather, not exactly the same variation (wider at top and taper down), it maybe that the combination of hits/collision had a compound effect. Under or over and T-bone could easily create a twist. Having said all that. IF near all of what is seen in the video are new panels (except doors and xxx) the past collisions really should have no influence on what it is now. There could still be a twist or rack present however just from assembling all those pieces, things should be square in each plane. I would also add that none of these cars came out of the factory with gaps and clearances as tight/loose or exact as many rebuilds would have you believe. IMO what has adjustment (doors, front fenders, hood, trunk lid) is already pretty good if the adjustability part is in the middle of the range as then at least you know you can "fix" it. It is far worse, as in the case of a friend's split bumper, when there is no adjustment left and it becomes clear someone messed up along the way [we are now pretty sure we know what the issue is but to undo a lot of the work two shops have already done may not be worth it]
Anymore forward than the curve at the rear filler panel and quarter panel where the curve of the decklid sits becomes more off . Asian after market quarter often the trouble . Fought my 68 Camaro back in the 80's and a friend's 67 firebird in the early 2000's It's almost like it still has a slight twist to the assembly . have you tried moving the cart to different spot on the shop floor just in case the rear wheels are in a slight dip in the floor . 1/4" drop twist on the back corner because of the floor could be the issue .... I've never seen a shop floor that was 100% level . shove a 1/4" shim under the rear of the cart ....it is a free and just a few minutes to check .
pretty sure pete from swrnc his camaro he had the same problem that big gap at the quarter and door ifr i remember he sectioned the quarter and added metal
seems to me the rear body line at the back of the quarter always droops a bit. i would not get to hung up on the rear body line but at the door gaps i would make it line up like you already have. other than that it looks awesome.
To see if the quarter panel shape is throwing off the laser I wonder if you could measure the height at the rear of the quarter panel from the floor then get something flat like whiteboard or cardboard, something flat. Then measure the height at that same point and see if it's different.
The back of that quarter needs to come up. That will make everything line up better. If the laser is a water type floating beam, then it levels itself left to right and front to back. Essentially it is a fanned out beam that is parallel to the ground, every where you measure it. The contour of the fender would not alter the line at all. However if you can make that beam angle up or down from the base (shoots up at an angle or down at an angle) then it has to be set at the exact height of the car or the fenders will affect the line.
I watched the video that Jubee made for you. It seems like an easy way to try to fix it, and if it works for you that would be great. If it doesn't work, I still think you need to remove and replace the drip rail. I know it's original to the car and it would be great to keep it, but as you said, the car took some massive hits. It that did anything to the structure between the A pillar and the C pillar, then the drip rail would be off as well. You may be trying to get the line perfect, but if the substructure isn't perfect, you'll be like a dog chasing its tail. Just my two cents.......
Can you measure the body line from your horizontal tube that has your castors on it to see if the laser is giving you a level line across the rear quarter?
Im at the point with mine, that I think Im going to have to cut the front of the quarter off (behind the jam) and make my door gap right, some add to the door to make it longer, which I think is odd.
Roger, the body line should stay level even with the part being convex. Do you have an email or are you on facebook? I’d like to message you about this as I’m having the exact same issue
I am going to make a video today showing you how to fix the the upper door gap.
I’ll watch it too Jubee
You are right there Roger! Pop the drip edges off, clamp the rocker to the quarter in the bottom rear and lift the rear frame rails up 1/2" on both sides (between the jig and the rear reference points) and that will fit like a glove!!! You may have to free up a couple pins, but you are right there! Awesome work man. I would not cut the quarter until you remove the drip edges first. the drip edged is made to take up some of that tolerancing between the roof and the quarter. Remember, the drip edge is always one of the last things Jubee the Jedi Panel Master fits up and that ties it all together seam wise. BTW your new shop foreman is pretty cool! I will throw the laser on my body line today and let you know but I would not get real hug up on that rear body line and the laser. Don't think for a second that the body by fisher guys were ever as fussy as we are.
measure from the garage floor in the back of the car is the left side sagging.
I can check the body line on my 68 camaro this weekend.
Overthinking is my nemesis as well.
Im guessing you will need to unpin it, and massage the drip rail area. It looks very good. If you can get the quarter sitting flat on the rocker, that may be your 1/8 in. The door gap will just need to be worked later if it needs it. I sure hope my 72 fits that well. Id get the welder ready, its close. Nice work Roger.
I just put a straight edge on my tripod, a crude way to recreat your lazer line, it goes along the whole body line only when slightly lower than the line, if I move slightly up or down the body line ahead of front tire and after rear tire don't quite match up, probably due to the convex of the panel.
Maybe try lazer at same height from floor as body line and only focus on between the tire openings.
With a little over bending is might pull together.
Also, many cars don't match the lines at the front and rear. Good luck
I always enjoy your videos. And definitely find this level of work interesting. I helped Jeff put in new floors and trunk pan in my 63 Belvedere… always wanted to try this stuff, don’t think I’ll ever do it again 😂🤣
Lotta work !
Get the other door on and fit like the driver one.
IF the gap does "opposite" or, rather, not exactly the same variation (wider at top and taper down), it maybe that the combination of hits/collision had a compound effect. Under or over and T-bone could easily create a twist.
Having said all that. IF near all of what is seen in the video are new panels (except doors and xxx) the past collisions really should have no influence on what it is now. There could still be a twist or rack present however just from assembling all those pieces, things should be square in each plane.
I would also add that none of these cars came out of the factory with gaps and clearances as tight/loose or exact as many rebuilds would have you believe. IMO what has adjustment (doors, front fenders, hood, trunk lid) is already pretty good if the adjustability part is in the middle of the range as then at least you know you can "fix" it. It is far worse, as in the case of a friend's split bumper, when there is no adjustment left and it becomes clear someone messed up along the way [we are now pretty sure we know what the issue is but to undo a lot of the work two shops have already done may not be worth it]
Anymore forward than the curve at the rear filler panel and quarter panel where the curve of the decklid sits becomes more off . Asian after market quarter often the trouble . Fought my 68 Camaro back in the 80's and a friend's 67 firebird in the early 2000's It's almost like it still has a slight twist to the assembly . have you tried moving the cart to different spot on the shop floor just in case the rear wheels are in a slight dip in the floor . 1/4" drop twist on the back corner because of the floor could be the issue .... I've never seen a shop floor that was 100% level . shove a 1/4" shim under the rear of the cart ....it is a free and just a few minutes to check .
def looks better now than it did in your last video. I think you're just a fraction away from perfect. I'm certain you're already better than factory!
pretty sure pete from swrnc his camaro he had the same problem that big gap at the quarter and door ifr i remember he sectioned the quarter and added metal
seems to me the rear body line at the back of the quarter always droops a bit. i would not get to hung up on the rear body line but at the door gaps i would make it line up like you already have. other than that it looks awesome.
To see if the quarter panel shape is throwing off the laser I wonder if you could measure the height at the rear of the quarter panel from the floor then get something flat like whiteboard or cardboard, something flat. Then measure the height at that same point and see if it's different.
The back of that quarter needs to come up. That will make everything line up better. If the laser is a water type floating beam, then it levels itself left to right and front to back. Essentially it is a fanned out beam that is parallel to the ground, every where you measure it. The contour of the fender would not alter the line at all. However if you can make that beam angle up or down from the base (shoots up at an angle or down at an angle) then it has to be set at the exact height of the car or the fenders will affect the line.
I watched the video that Jubee made for you. It seems like an easy way to try to fix it, and if it works for you that would be great. If it doesn't work, I still think you need to remove and replace the drip rail. I know it's original to the car and it would be great to keep it, but as you said, the car took some massive hits. It that did anything to the structure between the A pillar and the C pillar, then the drip rail would be off as well. You may be trying to get the line perfect, but if the substructure isn't perfect, you'll be like a dog chasing its tail. Just my two cents.......
My dog chases it’s tail
Roger...get in touch with the laser mfg. Or maybe the science nerds at a university????
Laser don't lie my friend .I would think the body line would be straight from the front to the rear .I had a 69 an the lines was straight on that year
put 1/2 inch spacers under the frame rails where they lay in the jig at the rear and this should remedy the problem. following.
That’s a similar suggestion to the video jubee just made 😉
Is your laser level at the same exact height as the body line? That would matter on the contour.
Yes it’s the same I think 🤔
Can you measure the body line from your horizontal tube that has your castors on it to see if the laser is giving you a level line across the rear quarter?
Yes I should be able to
Im at the point with mine, that I think Im going to have to cut the front of the quarter off (behind the jam) and make my door gap right, some add to the door to make it longer, which I think is odd.
czcams.com/video/mQ3UvD3kMpg/video.htmlsi=fF3cHL5pVWBv4eNj
Had to do that on a 67 I built but it wasn’t wrecked
@@MrFireman164Mine hasnt been wrecked either, I really regret cutting off the factory sills and gaps.
DOOR STRETCHER!!!
Lol
Maybe check that line against a car that still factory assembled.
Roger, the body line should stay level even with the part being convex. Do you have an email or are you on facebook? I’d like to message you about this as I’m having the exact same issue
Facebook Rogerandandreaschafer