Been waiting for this breakdown! However I have a greenworks 60 Amp mower. But knowing this info, I'm stoked and can't wait for the next in this "series"! Excellent job👍
I CANNOT BELIEVE YOURE DOING THIS VIDEO!!!! I literally just ripped one of these apart after FINDING IT on the curb… The controller seems to have gotten SOAKED with water but everything else seems FINE.. Can you do a video giving examples of how to diagnose a “WATER DAMAGED” ESC module (or any similar board) and best attempt to bring it back to life???? Also, the BEST PART OF THIS (the 40V battery!!) was also SOAKED INSIDE… I opened and dismantled it… ccaredully cleaned as much as I could and I’m letting it sit… Last night I said “I wish someone would Make a video about this situation” and POW here you are!!! I hope you see my comment and can point me in the right direction
POW! I have magic, don't I? Just kidding. Did you try to dry the controller as much as you can? If it's dry, I would just plug it in and give it a shot. What can possible go wrong? The worst case you get some fireworks show. :D But seriously, this controller is incased inside a silicone protective layer and it's designed to deal with wet environment so I think it would be fine. Unless the previous owner tried to run it while it was soaking wet. That might not burn the sealed PCB but because there are wires sticking out and exposed, it would be enough to fry the controller.
@@vuaeco - ok, I must clarify one thing before continuing… Your mower is KOBALT 40V, the one I found on the curb was RYOBI (the Green one).. I’m not sure why, but I ASSUMED they were manufactured by the same company, and therefore WERE “electronically” the SAME… I must also include one MAJOR DIFFERENCE between your Kobalt and my Ryobi - DISASSEMBLY!!! I basically DESTROYED the Ryobi Mower during the disassembly because they made it VERY INCONVENIENT to remove things in sections the way your Kobalt mower came apart so easily…. With that out of the way, You mentioned “DRYING” the controller and stated that the controller was somehow sealed with silicone to prevent internal damage… My response: 1. Opening and drying the controller was my FIRST PRIORITY… 2. I didn’t see “SILICONE” ANYWHERE!!!!! 😂 I recently disassembled about 7 e-Scooters (Razors & Schwinns) which were ALL OBTAINED FROM THE CURB… I didn’t take apart the Razor Controllers (because they’re so small & insignificant), BUT the Schwinn scooters had nice 24V 30A controllers which I DID TAKE APART……. I removed the top & bottom “covers” from the aluminum box of the controllers, annnnnnnd that was where it ended…. The entire inside was a SOLID BRICK of BROWN GLUE completely encasing all the internals… NO CHANCE OF WATER DAMAGE, EVEN IN A TORNADO 🌪 (although 1 of them WAS inoperable, I’m certain it was not from water)… Why am I mentioning this? Well, because the Ryobi 40V controller has ZERO PROTECTION like this besides some silicone “sheets” or pads that sat between the covers and the box itself - Nobody at “Ryobi” considered the fact that SCREWS would go thru these cover and pads allowing for water to flow right in! Once I removed 1 cover, I had to POUR OUT several ounces of rusty water!! The Controller housing was holding the water inside for a week. What a joke!! Since there was so much water in the controller, I figured I should also inspect the motor… the screws WILL NOT BUDGE… I striped all 3 hex heads… Once I dried and cleaned the Controller board with alcohol, I DID TRY to just power it up… All that happened was the “LED headlights” turned on but the motor didn’t respond at all… As I mentioned, the **40V 6Ah** battery AND CHARGER were included with this mower… but the battery was ALSO FILLED WITH WATER - I am currently working on removing all the rusted spots & welds from each cell so I can REVIVE THEM, but the BMS was destroyed. With that said, I DID NOT HAVE a 40V power source to try the 40V controller & motor… my bench PSU only goes to 31V… could the 9V loss really matter?? That’s the whole story so far… any advice??? I’d love it and appreciate it VERY MUCH if you’d email me… I have STOCKPILES of medical grade lithium cells, motors, components, and on and on that are just waiting to be used but I lack the full confidence in knowledge to proceed… There are certain things that hold me back from beginning to experiment that I’m positive a few chats with someone like you would easily fix. I can be reached at - protonmail - D0tt - c0MM - by just adding my youtube name to the front… that way I can also send you pictures of all this I’m telling you about AND the cells found inside the Ryobi battery… The amount of ideas I have would probably be of great interest to you and your content and I’d be more than happy to contribute however I can as a thanks for your advice. POW!!!!!
@@vuaeco - just in case you don’t end up emailing me, I wanted to share the Li-ion cell info of the **THIRTY (30)** “EVE” 18650 cells that were recovered from within this RYOBI 40V 6Ah battery… All 30 are identical - here are the markings: EVE - 2.0Ah - 7.2Wh - ICR18650/20P 7iLG11M488505 BLUE WRAPPER // WHITE RING I still struggle with the FULL UNDERSTANDING of how these things work, the way you do… And based on a video you did where you purchased the $30 battery “cheapest on the internet”, I’m wondering if perhaps this battery is ALSO falsely claiming a 6Ah status….? Unless the 2.0Ah is being multiplied by 3 in this pack? IDK - but it’s these MINOR DETAILS that stump me the most… things that are simple to everyone else somehow just don’t compute in my head when it comes to this topic. I can figure out the most complex things but not this 😂 I should also mention that the website “secondlifestorage” DOES NOT have this particular cell in its massive database, so I’ll have to search further to find its data sheet. They only list ONE “EVE” 18650 cell - it does have similar characteristics (such as BLUE WRAP & WHITE RING) but the power specs are slightly off… 2.6Ah instead of my 2.0Ah… and in the picture, the “BLUE” wrap is a slightly different shade of blue. Just thought I’d share for you information. One last update on these cells and their water damage… I have cleaned them all the best I can without removing the wraps AND have grinder down all the spot welds… rust removed with white vinegar and scour pad… All cells are DRAINED… Some 0.00V - Several are around 0.04V - a few are around 0.72V but not many…. I’m assuming you’d instruct me to attempt to shock revive them at this point, so that’s what I’m about to attempt.
@@flojotubeYou have a dream neighborhood where you can just stroll around and pick up random EV's on the curb. I would move there to live! Looks like your BMS is destroyed. The wet battery might have a chance, though. My ebike battery got wet in the rain and rusted all of the cells. Out of 91 cells, I was able to revive about 29 cells which wasn't bad because they were really rusted. Most of them were under 1 Volt. I made a full video of that so you might want to watch it. As for your 31V bench PSU, depending on what controller you have. Some have high cut out voltage so say it would cut out at 32V. Then your bench PSU which can max out at 31V is useless. I would get another bench PSU and connect both in series to get to 40V.
What do you think would be the best way to find a Makita motor with all of the wires, controllers, etc? I want to make a high pressure water pump that can be used with my Makita batteries
I have a 80V Kolar and would like to add an external switch to set the blade speed. My mower currently speeds up when cutting longer / heavy grass and slows down in thinner grass. I end up with cut grass that does not get into the bag, and some grass that is not cut well. Could I add a switch to set the speed without adding a whole new controller ?
Hey man, great video. You did mention being able to determine how to wire the controller to the motor when the wire colors didn't match? Did you end up making that video? I cant seem to find it in your page
Does your controller have a manual 'self-learning' mode? (usually two white wires), and if so did you implement it after connecting the motor? I'm wondering if your high current with no load might be due to the controller not matched to a 12 pole motor and/or some phase angle misalignment between the controller and motor. I think most direct drive ebike hub motors have 18 coils rather than 12. there may be some pole specification on your controller. Cheap, generic controllers could be for a fixed pole-group and phase angle, while others with self-learning mode and detect the number of poles and phase angle.
It has a self learning mode but I didn't use it because it just worked the first time I plugged it in. You have a good point. I should try the self learning mode. The higher current at no load might not be the best combinations even though it produces the best result for a bench test.
I suspect the heating on the controller is because it cant keep up with the RPM of the motor. Spinning the motor at high rpm requires a fast microprocessor, and when it cant keep up, it wont increase the speed any more (or it will pulse as seen in this video) and will just send more and more current. What you are looking for is a controller that supports high ERPM (electronic rpm) like a VESC Hope thats helpful!
you're most likely right, this is an extremely cheap controller even for cheap ones. even the normal cheap ones do a interpolation of the sensors to get a better commutation at high speed. this one is probably just looking solely at sensor data which is too slow
Hi, I am current trying to replace a front wheel I broke on mine. I saw you took off all for wheel and wonder it you have any tips for getting the Front Wheel Bolt off as it is not wanting to turn at all!!
Well, luckily the axle comes off easily and I was able to take it to a local equipment company and they had to use a Impact Drill to get the bolt lose for me
Could you tear down the motor and see what size copper was used and how many winds it has also magnets and what type of magnets! That’s a powerful motor!
I picked up one of these mowers for 20 bucks because the battery charger had fried and you can not get the charger any more. I plan on using it on a old 9 hp outboard with a locked up engine.
I have a Kobalt 40v mower and I want to run it from a different battery. When I hook up the non Kobalt battery the mower runs for about 5 seconds then shuts off. I would like to run this mower with the manufactures motor controller. Do you know why the mower will not run with a non Kobalt battery and how to defeat whatever is causing the problem.
This is a great video, and I have a lawn mower with this exact same specification but after two years of work. But nowadays it only works for a few minutes and; any; suggestions? I like it, and I don't want to replace it; Thanks
there is a bunch of combinations of wires that work but only one that is efficient and correct. maybe thats why it was pulling so many amps? how are you sure you don't have a wiring error in the phases in relation to the hallsensor wires. I used a proces to get my ebike motor paired with a new controller and I had atleast 4 combinations that worked. 2 backward and 2 forward but one of them pulled way too many amps.
You're right, the combination that pulls too many amps might not be a good one but surely it gives the best performance for a bench test. There are other combinations that work as well with lower performance and also pull lower current. I'll talk about that in the next video.
@@vuaeco awesome I didnt see your reply until your next upload and ty for reading my comment and actually adding the extra info to your videos! I love your videos and creativity
I have made a remote mower with a ryobi 40v push mower. However, the blades seem to bog down easily. I am controlling it a Opaltool Brushless Controller, 36V/48V Aluminium Alloy E-Bike Brushless Motor Controller for Electric Bicycle Scooter. Do I need to step up to a bigger controller, or is this just the limitations of the mower moter itself?
You should look into your mowers ability to discharge the cut grass. If the mower can’t get the grass clippings out of the way of the blade it will bog the motor down significantly. What I’ve done on a couple of mowers is modify them by leaving the mulch bag door wide open , and even cutting most of the front of the mower so that it can discharge the clippings in front and off to the side. The two mowers I’ve made these modifications to (one gas, one battery power) are so much more powerful now and can cut grass and brush almost as tall as me without breaking a sweat!
Also, the lawnmower motor appears to be a Radial Flux-motor and most hub motor are 'External Rotor'' (ERPM). I'm thinking there may be differences in flux densities as well as phase angles and you may need a different controller. The noise of the motor with your ebike controller is more pronounced than I might expect suggesting to me that you could have a phase mismatch. You might try the stock mower controller and see if you get a difference in no-load sound and current.
@@Blox117 My suspicion was that the number of poles, phase angle or flux densities could be mismatched between the Radial Flux motor and the External Rotor hub motor. Looks like there could be more poles in the Hub motor, and the controller designed for the External Rotor motor might incompatible or unable to sense and generate a sine wave and angle to properly drive the External Flux motor, and could be generating circulating currents (VARs) or bucking a field mismatches. Does that make sense and what do you think?
@@jackoneil3933 no it shouldnt make a difference at all where the rotor is located. there are mid drives and hub motors controlled by the exact same controller and i have literally tested that to be the case.
@@vuaeco I have the Kobalt 80V motor infront of me and it is outwardly identical (presumably greater number of turns of thinner wire on the inside). Just goes to show that "More Volts = More Power" is BS, more like "More Volts = More Marketing".
I was wondering u remember when u changed your sons Crazy Cart batteries with a drill battery, how did u charge it because I swapped my batteries now it won’t charge
I just remove the Kobalt 24V battery out of the cart and put it in my Kobalt 24V charger. The original controller with the original charger are designed to charge lead acid batteries only. It maxes out at about 29V. If you plug in the original lead acid battery charger to charge your Kobalt 24V battery, the battery will blow up.
Hey, DM me. I have a kobalt battery extender I call the Extendo Batt. 3d printed for ease. It can be plugged into a wall or attach another battery to the bottom of it to double the AH. Built off of a standard 24v 4ah kobalt battery.
I took apart a ego 58v brushless mower. The motor is an outrunner like a quadcopter. Pretty cool stuff. Very powerful
What’s wrong when the blade on tune
Been waiting for this breakdown! However I have a greenworks 60 Amp mower. But knowing this info, I'm stoked and can't wait for the next in this "series"! Excellent job👍
I CANNOT BELIEVE YOURE DOING THIS VIDEO!!!! I literally just ripped one of these apart after FINDING IT on the curb… The controller seems to have gotten SOAKED with water but everything else seems FINE.. Can you do a video giving examples of how to diagnose a “WATER DAMAGED” ESC module (or any similar board) and best attempt to bring it back to life????
Also, the BEST PART OF THIS (the 40V battery!!) was also SOAKED INSIDE… I opened and dismantled it… ccaredully cleaned as much as I could and I’m letting it sit…
Last night I said “I wish someone would
Make a video about this situation” and POW here you are!!!
I hope you see my comment and can point me in the right direction
haha good luck! thats awesome man! For sure go and try some stuff to get yours back in working order!
POW! I have magic, don't I? Just kidding. Did you try to dry the controller as much as you can? If it's dry, I would just plug it in and give it a shot. What can possible go wrong? The worst case you get some fireworks show. :D But seriously, this controller is incased inside a silicone protective layer and it's designed to deal with wet environment so I think it would be fine. Unless the previous owner tried to run it while it was soaking wet. That might not burn the sealed PCB but because there are wires sticking out and exposed, it would be enough to fry the controller.
@@vuaeco - ok, I must clarify one thing before continuing… Your mower is KOBALT 40V, the one I found on the curb was RYOBI (the Green one).. I’m not sure why, but I ASSUMED they were manufactured by the same company, and therefore WERE “electronically” the SAME…
I must also include one MAJOR DIFFERENCE between your Kobalt and my Ryobi - DISASSEMBLY!!! I basically DESTROYED the Ryobi Mower during the disassembly because they made it VERY INCONVENIENT to remove things in sections the way your Kobalt mower came apart so easily….
With that out of the way, You mentioned “DRYING” the controller and stated that the controller was somehow sealed with silicone to prevent internal damage…
My response: 1. Opening and drying the controller was my FIRST PRIORITY… 2. I didn’t see “SILICONE” ANYWHERE!!!!! 😂
I recently disassembled about 7 e-Scooters (Razors & Schwinns) which were ALL OBTAINED FROM THE CURB… I didn’t take apart the Razor Controllers (because they’re so small & insignificant), BUT the Schwinn scooters had nice 24V 30A controllers which I DID TAKE APART……. I removed the top & bottom “covers” from the aluminum box of the controllers, annnnnnnd that was where it ended…. The entire inside was a SOLID BRICK of BROWN GLUE completely encasing all the internals… NO CHANCE OF WATER DAMAGE, EVEN IN A TORNADO 🌪 (although 1 of them WAS inoperable, I’m certain it was not from water)…
Why am I mentioning this? Well, because the Ryobi 40V controller has ZERO PROTECTION like this besides some silicone “sheets” or pads that sat between the covers and the box itself - Nobody at “Ryobi” considered the fact that SCREWS would go thru these cover and pads allowing for water to flow right in! Once I removed 1 cover, I had to POUR OUT several ounces of rusty water!! The Controller housing was holding the water inside for a week. What a joke!!
Since there was so much water in the controller, I figured I should also inspect the motor… the screws WILL NOT BUDGE… I striped all 3 hex heads…
Once I dried and cleaned the Controller board with alcohol, I DID TRY to just power it up…
All that happened was the “LED headlights” turned on but the motor didn’t respond at all…
As I mentioned, the **40V 6Ah** battery AND CHARGER were included with this mower… but the battery was ALSO FILLED WITH WATER - I am currently working on removing all the rusted spots & welds from each cell so I can REVIVE THEM, but the BMS was destroyed.
With that said, I DID NOT HAVE a 40V power source to try the 40V controller & motor… my bench PSU only goes to 31V… could the 9V loss really matter??
That’s the whole story so far… any advice???
I’d love it and appreciate it VERY MUCH if you’d email me… I have STOCKPILES of medical grade lithium cells, motors, components, and on and on that are just waiting to be used but I lack the full confidence in knowledge to proceed… There are certain things that hold me back from beginning to experiment that I’m positive a few chats with someone like you would easily fix. I can be reached at - protonmail - D0tt - c0MM - by just adding my youtube name to the front… that way I can also send you pictures of all this I’m telling you about AND the cells found inside the Ryobi battery… The amount of ideas I have would probably be of great interest to you and your content and I’d be more than happy to contribute however I can as a thanks for your advice.
POW!!!!!
@@vuaeco - just in case you don’t end up emailing me, I wanted to share the Li-ion cell info of the **THIRTY (30)** “EVE” 18650 cells that were recovered from within this RYOBI 40V 6Ah battery…
All 30 are identical - here are the markings:
EVE - 2.0Ah - 7.2Wh - ICR18650/20P
7iLG11M488505
BLUE WRAPPER // WHITE RING
I still struggle with the FULL UNDERSTANDING of how these things work, the way you do… And based on a video you did where you purchased the $30 battery “cheapest on the internet”, I’m wondering if perhaps this battery is ALSO falsely claiming a 6Ah status….?
Unless the 2.0Ah is being multiplied by 3 in this pack? IDK - but it’s these MINOR DETAILS that stump me the most… things that are simple to everyone else somehow just don’t compute in my head when it comes to this topic. I can figure out the most complex things but not this 😂
I should also mention that the website “secondlifestorage” DOES NOT have this particular cell in its massive database, so I’ll have to search further to find its data sheet. They only list ONE “EVE” 18650 cell - it does have similar characteristics (such as BLUE WRAP & WHITE RING) but the power specs are slightly off… 2.6Ah instead of my 2.0Ah… and in the picture, the “BLUE” wrap is a slightly different shade of blue.
Just thought I’d share for you information.
One last update on these cells and their water damage…
I have cleaned them all the best I can without removing the wraps AND have grinder down all the spot welds… rust removed with white vinegar and scour pad…
All cells are DRAINED… Some 0.00V - Several are around 0.04V - a few are around 0.72V but not many…. I’m assuming you’d instruct me to attempt to shock revive them at this point, so that’s what I’m about to attempt.
@@flojotubeYou have a dream neighborhood where you can just stroll around and pick up random EV's on the curb. I would move there to live! Looks like your BMS is destroyed. The wet battery might have a chance, though. My ebike battery got wet in the rain and rusted all of the cells. Out of 91 cells, I was able to revive about 29 cells which wasn't bad because they were really rusted. Most of them were under 1 Volt. I made a full video of that so you might want to watch it.
As for your 31V bench PSU, depending on what controller you have. Some have high cut out voltage so say it would cut out at 32V. Then your bench PSU which can max out at 31V is useless. I would get another bench PSU and connect both in series to get to 40V.
I'm excited on this project
Looking forward to the next vid on the wires. I got my pen and paper ready!
Do you know what aftermarket controller can use on a Kobalt 80v motor ?
Is there a way to bypass tye safety cut off switch for the xtr circ saw? Its a powerful saw but that safety cutoff swith is a killer on your cuts.
Great video Good job
What do you think would be the best way to find a Makita motor with all of the wires, controllers, etc? I want to make a high pressure water pump that can be used with my Makita batteries
I have a 80V Kolar and would like to add an external switch to set the blade speed. My mower currently speeds up when cutting longer / heavy grass and slows down in thinner grass.
I end up with cut grass that does not get into the bag, and some grass that is not cut well.
Could I add a switch to set the speed without adding a whole new controller ?
Picking up a Ryobi 40v brushless tomorrow going to see how good the motor is with my controller.
Hey man, great video. You did mention being able to determine how to wire the controller to the motor when the wire colors didn't match? Did you end up making that video? I cant seem to find it in your page
Does your controller have a manual 'self-learning' mode? (usually two white wires), and if so did you implement it after connecting the motor? I'm wondering if your high current with no load might be due to the controller not matched to a 12 pole motor and/or some phase angle misalignment between the controller and motor. I think most direct drive ebike hub motors have 18 coils rather than 12. there may be some pole specification on your controller. Cheap, generic controllers could be for a fixed pole-group and phase angle, while others with self-learning mode and detect the number of poles and phase angle.
It has a self learning mode but I didn't use it because it just worked the first time I plugged it in. You have a good point. I should try the self learning mode. The higher current at no load might not be the best combinations even though it produces the best result for a bench test.
Nice motor!
Have a 48 skilsaw cordless worm drive saw would this motor work on a bike or cart and would it be more powerful then this one would be a great test
Do you know if you can use your 80 volt battery an overvolt a 60 volt greenworks or any other 60 volt lawnmowers what are the benifits
Also I have a bunch of these chargers can you combine 2 to make a higher amp charger is it possible
So nice!
I suspect the heating on the controller is because it cant keep up with the RPM of the motor. Spinning the motor at high rpm requires a fast microprocessor, and when it cant keep up, it wont increase the speed any more (or it will pulse as seen in this video) and will just send more and more current. What you are looking for is a controller that supports high ERPM (electronic rpm) like a VESC Hope thats helpful!
you're most likely right, this is an extremely cheap controller even for cheap ones. even the normal cheap ones do a interpolation of the sensors to get a better commutation at high speed. this one is probably just looking solely at sensor data which is too slow
Anybody have a clue how much current this motor pulls with a blade on it?
AWESOME!!
Hi, I am current trying to replace a front wheel I broke on mine. I saw you took off all for wheel and wonder it you have any tips for getting the Front Wheel Bolt off as it is not wanting to turn at all!!
Well, luckily the axle comes off easily and I was able to take it to a local equipment company and they had to use a Impact Drill to get the bolt lose for me
Did you ever test at 60v? I’m doing a mini bike build with a similar motor
Could you tear down the motor and see what size copper was used and how many winds it has also magnets and what type of magnets! That’s a powerful motor!
I picked up one of these mowers for 20 bucks because the battery charger had fried and you can not get the charger any more. I plan on using it on a old 9 hp outboard with a locked up engine.
I have a Kobalt 40v mower and I want to run it from a different battery. When I hook up the non Kobalt battery the mower runs for about 5 seconds then shuts off. I would like to run this mower with the manufactures motor controller. Do you know why the mower will not run with a non Kobalt battery and how to defeat whatever is causing the problem.
This is a great video, and I have a lawn mower with this exact same specification but after two years of work. But nowadays it only works for a few minutes and; any; suggestions? I like it, and I don't want to replace it; Thanks
There is a video where the guy cut one of the spring pushing against the battery in the lawnmower housing
Hi, what is the diameter of the output shaft of this motor?
there is a bunch of combinations of wires that work but only one that is efficient and correct. maybe thats why it was pulling so many amps? how are you sure you don't have a wiring error in the phases in relation to the hallsensor wires. I used a proces to get my ebike motor paired with a new controller and I had atleast 4 combinations that worked. 2 backward and 2 forward but one of them pulled way too many amps.
You're right, the combination that pulls too many amps might not be a good one but surely it gives the best performance for a bench test. There are other combinations that work as well with lower performance and also pull lower current. I'll talk about that in the next video.
@@vuaeco awesome I didnt see your reply until your next upload and ty for reading my comment and actually adding the extra info to your videos! I love your videos and creativity
I have made a remote mower with a ryobi 40v push mower. However, the blades seem to bog down easily. I am controlling it a Opaltool Brushless Controller, 36V/48V Aluminium Alloy E-Bike Brushless Motor Controller for Electric Bicycle Scooter. Do I need to step up to a bigger controller, or is this just the limitations of the mower moter itself?
How many watts is your controller? This mower uses a lot of power.
@@vuaeco 500 Watts
You should look into your mowers ability to discharge the cut grass. If the mower can’t get the grass clippings out of the way of the blade it will bog the motor down significantly. What I’ve done on a couple of mowers is modify them by leaving the mulch bag door wide open , and even cutting most of the front of the mower so that it can discharge the clippings in front and off to the side. The two mowers I’ve made these modifications to (one gas, one battery power) are so much more powerful now and can cut grass and brush almost as tall as me without breaking a sweat!
Also, the lawnmower motor appears to be a Radial Flux-motor and most hub motor are 'External Rotor'' (ERPM). I'm thinking there may be differences in flux densities as well as phase angles and you may need a different controller. The noise of the motor with your ebike controller is more pronounced than I might expect suggesting to me that you could have a phase mismatch. You might try the stock mower controller and see if you get a difference in no-load sound and current.
You might be right. I'll double check and update later.
@@vuaeco Cool!
most are radial and outrunners. whats your point?
@@Blox117 My suspicion was that the number of poles, phase angle or flux densities could be mismatched between the Radial Flux motor and the External Rotor hub motor. Looks like there could be more poles in the Hub motor, and the controller designed for the External Rotor motor might incompatible or unable to sense and generate a sine wave and angle to properly drive the External Flux motor, and could be generating circulating currents (VARs) or bucking a field mismatches. Does that make sense and what do you think?
@@jackoneil3933 no it shouldnt make a difference at all where the rotor is located. there are mid drives and hub motors controlled by the exact same controller and i have literally tested that to be the case.
Can't wait to see this mounted on a cart or bike to see what kind of torque it has,may need wheely bars on back of cart lol
LOL
These are amazing for ebikes and gokarts!
Go kart would be sick with this
How about the 80 volt kobalt lawnmower is it the same or better
Yes! Following this question!
I think the 80V mower uses a bigger motor. I would love to have my hands on one.
@@vuaeco how about a cordless skilsaw worm drive motor think they run on 48 volts or more
@@vuaeco I have the Kobalt 80V motor infront of me and it is outwardly identical (presumably greater number of turns of thinner wire on the inside). Just goes to show that "More Volts = More Power" is BS, more like "More Volts = More Marketing".
I was wondering u remember when u changed your sons Crazy Cart batteries with a drill battery, how did u charge it because I swapped my batteries now it won’t charge
I just remove the Kobalt 24V battery out of the cart and put it in my Kobalt 24V charger. The original controller with the original charger are designed to charge lead acid batteries only. It maxes out at about 29V. If you plug in the original lead acid battery charger to charge your Kobalt 24V battery, the battery will blow up.
👍
What about electric supercharger?... would need to be geared up to say, 35000 rpm at the output, easy enough, the question is torque
Looks like it would do it, if we're talking 1000w+ at 12000rpm. 3:1 reduction might do it
Your gonna b flying when u get that hooked up to a bike or go cart.
Put this on a bike pls! Great vid! -thks
Good idea to have a professional cat scat done before you take it apart.
LOL. "Cat scan"
Hey, DM me. I have a kobalt battery extender I call the Extendo Batt. 3d printed for ease. It can be plugged into a wall or attach another battery to the bottom of it to double the AH. Built off of a standard 24v 4ah kobalt battery.
Might be a good idea not to risk junior ecos life in a cart with this motor....better off asking your wife to try 1st 😆....sorry mrs eco
LOL. Somebody's gotta do it.
@@vuaeco mayb its your turn for a change🤣
No! It’s over 12’000 RPM not 11’000 RPM 🤦🏻♂️
Why are you taking apart a perfectly good mower? What’s wrong with you?