How to change brakes on a Toyota (4Runner, Tacoma, and more)
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- čas přidán 7. 09. 2019
- Time for some new stopping power? Want to save HUNDREDS of dollars doing it yourself? We've got you covered! Here's a step-by-step video showing you how to change out your own brakes and rotors in most Toyota vehicles. Even if you don't drive a Toyota, there's a ton of info in here that will help you with your own vehicle.
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This link brings me to a telehealth page 😂
link is broken and goes to health page
Best instructional brake/rotor video I’ve seen yet. Just enough info without some of the ramblings of lesser channels. I love your guys content and channel in general 👍🏻
Thank you! I hadn't discovered Lifestyle Overland when I bought my 5th gen, but it sure is nice to have your How-To videos done on a vehicle that is nearly identical to mine. This is fantastic.
Love these informative how to videos. Keep them coming. Hopefully a lot of it can be transferred to my 4th gen.
Thanks so much for sharing this, Kevin! For people like me, this kind of video is gold! I’m planning to go to the expo east next month. Hoping I’ll get to meet you there! Safe trip to VA!
Really useful, usually leave this kind of servicing to the workshop but good to understand the process in case I need to do this on a trip. Thanks for sharing.
Awesome instructional video. Very thorough and informative. Thank you for sharing it with us 👍
Thank you so much for the detailed tutorial. I tried today to do the brake pads on my 2018 4Runner TRDORP for the first time. It was frustrating but hopefully I did it right... haven't actually driven the thing yet afterwards! And literally spent the whole day (10 AM to 5 PM) and only managed to get the front pads done. Rear will be another day. Was slowed down not only by learning curve, but also not 1 not 2 but 3 trips to Home Depot for missing tools. In my 2018, the front brake assemblies are held on by 19mm bolts not 17mm. And those things were really really really seized on. Ultimately had to buy an impact driver to get the passenger side bolts off. 19mm wench and a hammer got the driver side ones off. And 137 ft-lbs of torque?!? Who is that strong--especially in a really tight space. I could not apply that much force. Then my daughter's 17 year old, 3rd degree black belt boyfriend stopped by and he wasn't strong enough either. Should I be worried that they will fall off when we applied as much force as we could but never got the torque wrench to click?
Kevin, enjoyed the video and coincidentally I will be doing the same brake job this week. Cheers, Mate!
Good info, you're likable and have a future in vlogging. Changing my pads tomorrow, wish my luck
Really good instructional video. I don't on a 5th gen but still it was well thought out for folks to view. Thank you. Squirrel 😊
Another excellent how-to video, Kevin!
It's like Bob Ross for cars
great video, most detailed 4runner brake job video, thank you.
nice informative video. for those living in colder areas/areas that are not warm year-round, you'll want to check other videos as well. some problems you are going to run into are not addressed or even mentioned. the slide pins holding the brake pads are going to give you hell trying to remove them, and it would be a good idea to buy new ones before attempting anything. you may have to cut the old ones to get them off. this video makes it look deceptively easier than it is because everything is already loosened/corrosion free and ready to go.
Hey Kevin !!! Congrats on making it over 100K subs !!! Moving up quick i see !
Awesome and informative video!
Thank you for a great video!
Nice video. Surprised you didnt check the park brake adjustment when installing the new rear rotors.
Great video, very helpful. Thanks
Thank you. Going with oem.
Thanks for the great video, I was wondering if you condone the use of copper compound on the wheel studs to ease the removal of the brake rotors as well as the lug nuts?
Thanks for making this. That said you managed to fast forward the placement of the spring clips as if it's not important. Just because you know how they go doesn't mean people watching this do. This is typical. Do your how too vids with this in mind
Great great video Kev!
Thanks for the video!
Very good 👍 video made doing the brakes nice and easy great job !!!!
Darn good vid great how to for the 5th Gen. There will be some that's going to be a bear to get but keep at it.
Kevin, Great easy to follow video. I would advise putting a warning or caution that when checking the brake fluid reservoir. The reservoir could be overfull from pushing back the brake caliper pistons.
I personally drain some brake fluid from the brake fluid reservoir before pushing back the brake caliper pistons. Leave the lid/cap on the brake fluid reservoir, or you will have fountain of brake fluid in the engine bay. Not great for the paint work.
Was thinking that myself. Sort of a been there, done that moment
Also, be careful not to get the grease where it can get on the face of the pad or caliper
You made it look so easy
Thought you said you were replacing the uniballs too?
Awesome video. Thanks for sharing.
Thanks for watching!
Thank you!
For watching the video!
It's an honor!
At how many miles did you have to replace the pads for the first time?
Do you Thermal grease your shims?
Thx this is gr8
Now what were you talking about greasing what should be greased is it only in the front or is it front and back also what type of grease should you use plz help
Did you add a locking rear diff on your truck ? Or is it limited slip
hell yeah man thanks!!!
Fyi... the location of the pad with the wear indicator does matter. It should be on the inside (engine side) which tends to wear down faster on these vehicles. That side, nice video.
You can put the rotor on, reinstall the caliper and then slide the pads in last, kind of the advantage of having 4 piston calipers, great video though
I’m glad you stayed OEM...... I worked at toyota 12 yrs. I’ve seen all the after market rotors and pads fail,,,, OEM never fails with brks and rotors. Matter of fact I’m changing mine out tomorrow on my 04 sequoia
Not cleaning and greasing the pad slide pins?
respect from morroco
He did the wheel bearings in the front, are there not any in the rear?
good.
No shim grease?
thumbs uo from indonesia
Thanks for a very helpful video. How many times did you change pads during those 131K miles? Did you resurface rotors when changing pads? Also it would be very interesting to see how to torque to 137 Ft-Lbs in such confined space, it's a lot of torque.
I was thinking the same thing ... My torque wrench capable of going to 137ft.-lb. is too long to get in there. Might have to go by feel for this one!
I tried and could not get to 137. Also had my daughter's 17 year old, 3rd degree black belt boyfriend try and he also was not strong enough. To cramped.
Turn the wheel outwards in advance. This way your wrench will be pointing out of the fender.
Do I need to bleed the brake fluid after replacing the pads?
No because you’re not disconnecting the brake line from anything. Really the only thing that has to do with the brake line is removing that screw that anchors it in place but you never lose brake pressure.
Wish the brake job on my 100 Series Land Cruiser was this easy.
Canceling my brembo rotors, going with oem rotors and trying to decide on oem pads or akebono pads
Hello. TRQ said to open the brake bleeder before moving pistons back to avoid possible damage to the ABS module. Have you seen this issue when doing a brake.job.?
Do you have any further information on this?
Why did you change the rotors?
you sold me. I know what im doing on sunday
Bleeding not needed?
good job but wheres the lube
👌
Do you do a break in cycle? I usually do a 60-5 hard breaking 10x or until the break start fading then I drive around for a while to cool down the breaks. I look for the blueish purple color on the edge of the rotor to know I got it up to the right temperature. Breaks after this work great. Oh, I also flush the fluid every time I change pads. Great video!
Приятный дорога у вас👍🚘🚘🚘🚘🚘🚘🚘🚘🛣🛣🛣🛣
👍👍
Ideally you should clean the piston as much as possible with the brake cleaner (without spraying) and then bleed the brake fluid as the pistons are pushed, to avoid the dirty fluid going back, potentially damaging the ABS system.
Also, I would recommend cleaning rust and greasing for smooth operation.
You say to use brake cleaner *without* spraying. Can you say more about this...the piston has a boot on it correct? Do you spray cleaner on a rag?
Also, if you open the bleeders while compressing the pistons as you recommend, do you later top off the fluid in the reservoir & does the brand matter?
Thanks!
@@kimbuck-2 yes, use a rag damped with the cleaner. And, yes I top off the fluid as necessary. And brand does not matter, it’s all synthetic even if it doesn’t say synthetic. I usually prefer DOT4 as it’s compatible with DOT3
@@ruchirsajwan Awesome. You are the only one who has mentioned the possibility of pushing dirty fluid back in.
I'll have to get a refresher on how to bleed the brakes.
Thank you.
@@kimbuck-2 thank you. I watched hundreds of videos before changing my own brakes. Also, when you bleed the front brakes, you don’t have to turn the vehicle on. But when you do the rear ones, you need to turn the vehicle on. That’s where your reservoir will drain faster.
Also, please be aware to use a bottle or tube method to drain the fluid. You do not want any air bubbles trapped inside. There are many ways you can do that, CZcams has many videos on using bottle method to bleed the brakes. Please feel free to ask any questions.
@@ruchirsajwan Like you, I will watch 100s of videos to make sure I get every detail before starting.
I do recall using tubing on bleeder nipples that got submerged into a fluid filled glass jar. One person pumped the pedal while the other cracked the valve open and watched for the bubbles (or lack the hereof). I think it's coming back to me!
Best!
MANTUL sekali gaes 😂
Brakes are a job anyone can tackle at home.
I forgot to put the shims back ugh
Is it just me or does 137ft lbs seem high?
It is you. Some models are with 17mm bolts. They are with 91ft/lb torque. The ones with 19mm bolts are with 137ft/lb.
Lol I was supposed to keep the shims
The Toyota Repair manual says those front calipers should be torqued to 91 ft-lbs. Not 137 ft-lbs. You're going to risk breaking the bolt and then you'll be in real trouble.
Manual for 2016-2020 says 137.
Read the manual for your year and model. Some models come with smaller hardware thus the difference
@@bobbydavis7098 - I think the difference is Toyota switching from 19mm to 17mm bolts.
As usual, this video skips disassembly of the brake calipers and getting the darned pins out. That is what I wanted to see, and everybody skips it.
You need smaller wheels and more rubber
A 17 inch wheel is as small as you can go on the 5th gen 4Runner.
@@RevereOverland Thanks for this info.
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Who?
B. Stone if there is anything good you have it comes from the very one you Hate GOD. REPENT AND BELIEVE THE GOSPEL OF JESUS CHRIST. MARK 1:15
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Sorry. Toyota brakes suck. I have over 200,000 miles on my 3/4 ton chevy and they are not warped or wore out yet.. Maybe it's just the older ones. I don't know I drive American
Chevys suck.
waste your money on anything you like! your money :)
Toyota breaks are akebono japanese engineering. Way superior to your Chevy stocks.