The ultimate retro computer display?
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- čas přidán 2. 08. 2021
- I've been looking a versatile little LCD monitor to sit on my desk for a while. I found this little 8" LCD on AliExpress and it comes with just about every input your could possibly want. Is this the ultimate retro computer LCD monitor?
-- Video Links
Teardown pictures of the Eyoyo monitor:
imgur.com/gallery/ccwUkFi
Eyoyo EM08C 8" 1024X768 Portable TV Monitor with VGA HDMI BNC USB Type C IPS
www.aliexpress.com/item/10050...
(if link above doesn't work, try searching for the text description or model number)
Support the channel on Patreon:
/ adriansdigitalbasement
Adrian's Digital Basement (Main Channel)
/ @adriansdigitalbasement
-- Tools
Deoxit D5:
amzn.to/2VvOKy1
store.caig.com/s.nl/it.A/id.16...
O-Ring Pick Set: (I use these to lift chips off boards)
amzn.to/3a9x54J
Elenco Electronics LP-560 Logic Probe:
amzn.to/2VrT5lW
Hakko FR301 Desoldering Iron:
amzn.to/2ye6xC0
Rigol DS1054Z Four Channel Oscilloscope:
www.rigolna.com/products/digi...
Head Worn Magnifying Goggles / Dual Lens Flip-In Head Magnifier:
amzn.to/3adRbuy
TL866II Plus Chip Tester and EPROM programmer: (The MiniPro)
amzn.to/2wG4tlP
www.aliexpress.com/item/33000...
TS100 Soldering Iron:
amzn.to/2K36dJ5
www.ebay.com/itm/TS100-65W-MI...
EEVBlog 121GW Multimeter:
www.eevblog.com/product/121gw/
DSLogic Basic Logic Analyzer:
amzn.to/2RDSDQw
www.ebay.com/itm/USB-Logic-DS...
Magnetic Screw Holder:
amzn.to/3b8LOhG
www.harborfreight.com/4-inch-...
Universal ZIP sockets: (clones, used on my ZIF-64 test machine)
www.ebay.com/itm/14-16-18-20-...
RetroTink 2X Upconverter: (to hook up something like a C64 to HDMI)
www.retrotink.com/
Plato (Clone) Side Cutters: (order five)
www.ebay.com/itm/1-2-5-10PCS-...
Heat Sinks:
www.aliexpress.com/item/32537...
Little squeezy bottles: (available elsewhere too)
amzn.to/3b8LOOI
--- Links
My GitHub repository:
github.com/misterblack1?tab=r...
Commodore Computer Club / Vancouver, WA - Portland, OR - PDX Commodore Users Group
www.commodorecomputerclub.com/
--- Instructional videos
My video on damage-free chip removal:
• How to remove chips wi...
--- Music
Intro music and other tracks by:
Nathan Divino
@itsnathandivino - Věda a technologie
I gotta say... I've never seen a OSD crash before.
Try using a 2012-2015 cheapo dell 17/19" 4:3 monitor for a while. They crash all the time, have to power cycle them, never known a monitor to crash before
If composite looks that good with chroma on, it must have a damn good comb filter in the demodulator.
Try it on the Ti99.
You're probably right about Y/Pb/Pr being through the VGA port, that was a common thing on projectors before HDMI became ubiquitous.
After watching the rest of the video, most likely it requires an adapter cable with a different pinout than the generic VGA to BNC breakout you're using here. Perhaps a cable designed for one of the aforementioned projectors would work...
@@yukisaitou5004 Yes indeed as I have a old Epson XGA projector from the mid-2000s (XGA = 1024 x 768 which is slighter better then 720p) and it supports component input (YPbPr) via the VGA input port. It indeed uses a special component RCA to VGA D-Sub DB15 cable that has a different pin-out then VGA cable and the projector can auto detect when a component signal is imputed via this special cable vs a standard VGA/SVGA signal via a standard VGA cable. The standard pinout for these component to VGA cables is as follows (For a HD-DB15 VGA connector): 1=Red, 2=Green, 3=Blue, 5, 6, 7, 8, & 10= Ground/Earth, 13=Horizontal sync, 14=Vertical sync, 4, 9, 11, 12, & 15=Not used. With VGA input it’s all the same as component except for pin 4, 11, 12, & 15 being ID bits (ID bit 2, 0, 1, & 3 (Data Clock), in that order), 5=Ground/earth, 6, 7, 8=R, G, & B shields, and 9=DDC +5v. YPbPr does not use the ID bits pins of VGA. A D-Sub DB15 to RCA component (YpBr) converter cable is about $3 on Monoprice right now (They also sell female to female adaptors too for use with standard 3 pair component cables). I believe the pin-outs for YpBr to D-sub15 are fairly standard across projector models of the pre-HDMI/DVI era) unless specified otherwise in the devices spec sheet.
@@Charlesb88 great info.
I have a sneaking suspicion that the original developer of this is Feelworld. Menus looking similar to FW568. And the display panel itself (or the film/coating on it) seems to resemble mid-2000s ATM screens that had that “privacy” layer or coating so that the ATM screen wouldn't be seen from sideways.
I bought a very similar one. So cheap, but so many inputs! I've found it really useful. I guess it's meant for things like security cameras, but I've hooked mine up to all sorts of systems.
Love messing around with new tech for old things. Very useful.
I've heard that this brand had its ups and downs. 😉
I heard the products could be ordered but only with strings attached
@@sprint955st But luckily, they ship Around the World
While walking the dog? Cool
Y'all are a bunch of yoyos
Youd probably need a monoprice VGA > Component cable. with the RGB lines on the DB15 being Y Pb and Pr respectively.
Looks like it could be a good fit for the MiSTer.
With all those mounting options, it looks like and interesting platform to make a DIY teleprompter.
Old MacDonald had a screen, Eyoyo Eyoyo!
I have one of these (from Amazon) and I love it. Have it on the wall behind my monitor. I used it with my Apple II for a bit too.
These have been turning up recently, there's demand in industrial applications for replacement for old crts in aging cnc mechines I wonder if the low end frequency supports cga with an adapter as in multi sync
I have an LCD TV (Daenyx DN-153) that supports 15.7 KHz h-sync, which I use for CGA/TGA conversion. There may be others that support it, but that LCD TV, which I happened across at a thrift store, happens to support it. The Composite sucks ass, but it does CGA/TGA over VGA with a simple resistor-diode bridge adapter just fine. So if you happen across a DN-153, pick it up.
I wonder if any of these are small-batch enough to have either a socketed ROM or flash with exposed JTAG. That would open up the ability to reprogram them, improving the firmware.
need Honda connector for CNC, also vibration proof is a critical thing.
These vga to bnc component cables were used for crts with rgb component input, iiyama made them. Component for video is different.
Dell UltraSharp 2405FPW. You can still find them for a couple hundred or less. DVI up to 1920x1200, VGA that does support 15 kHz RGB, Component from 240p/480i up to 720p/1080i, s-video and composite that handles 240p properly. It was Dell’s first widescreen monitor and they went all out on the video processing. Excellent handling of analog signals. Oh, and the stand rotates so you can play tate games on it.
My ultimate retro computer monitor is Medion E73009 (MD82688) - it is an 10.1" LCD TV, which has all possible inputs: RF (both analog, and DVB-T), VGA, HDMI, EuroSCART (with RGB), Component Video (Y, Pb, Pr), S-Video, and Composite Video.
Seeing the post it note in front of the LCD is a hilarious size comparison.
As far as i know RGB inputs on monitors (rca/bnc) have an impedance of 75ohms, and running a single signal into three monitor inputs at once loaded it to 25ohms, like three 75ohm resistors wired in parallel, dropping the voltage significantly
Well, perhaps that's the clue...
Component in via vga
Bought several Eyoyo monitors in the past for my retro projects and they are great for the money
I recently (a month ago) bought one of these through Amazon - and the screen was bad right out of the box (I didn't even bother doing a plastic peel). So I got to do a return but did want to give them another chance and selected to replace it. The second unit was good - I use it for a backup camera screen on my car.
Yes, mine was advertised as 'TFT LCD'. The OSD is wonky, as you discovered. And I went through the same aspect ratio failings that you did, but since this will be single-use (through the BNC connector) at least for the short-term it doesn't worry me either.
For these things, you don't expect perfection. For your own particular setup, they're good or they're not. Experience tells me to keep finding old, especially portable TVs from around 12 years ago by companies like Toshiba, Technika or LG. They're not discovered yet, Goodwill and other charity shops pack old screens to the roof and an especially good find can see your Commodore or Laserdisc really look like it's on a superb monitor native to the resolution.
I even found an LG television at the roadside the other year and even the VGA was good and crisp, and that's usually a weakest point for a telly.
I once accidentally damaged a cheap (modern) LCD monitor by feeding a 15kHZ signal from an Apple IIgs into it through a DB15 converter meant for Macintosh computers. (some of these video standards have the same connectors, but drastically different pinouts/signals) I wonder if a similar thing happened to your monitor in this video during the testing process. The potential damage could explain the corrupted text, red only YPbPr, and the black screen behavior where the monitor acted like it was short-circuited.
Had an old Syncmaster that died similarly, it kept corrupting the EEPROM and regularly had to be reflashed to even turn on.
I don’t believe 15 kHz hurts, but VGA is 31 kHz indeed. Most VGA has wide range support nowadays, from 15 to +70 kHz. From what i heard, TTL signals can really do damage, but i haven’t experienced this yet. I have a TTL button on my 1084 commodore CRT, which i believe needs to be turned on for my Amiga 500.
@@jengelenm The Amiga doesn't output TTL-level video. Examples of things that do output TTL are MDA, CGA and EGA video cards, and the BBC Micro and Acorn Electron.
@@jengelenm Depending on the circuitry, a sync too low could effectively act like DC and pass through low pass filters meant to filter sync signals. Poorly designed if that's the case, but possible.
@@Zeem4 I think the Amiga does both digital TTL and analog RGB.
When you Frankensteined all the coax connectors together, it's possible it might have been white if the signal was stronger, but all of them being connected might have loaded it too much to have a good sync still be detected.
With three hooked together like that, the sync signal would be cut to 1/3. I think he would need to have an active input mixer.
As far as i know RGB (over bnc or rca) has an impedance or 75 ohms, meaning the monitor itself acts as if it had a 75ohm resistor between the red signal input and ground, blue and ground, and green and ground. Adrian connected all of the monitor inputs in parallel - the computer was outputting a signal suitable for a monitor with the impedance of 75ohms, but the monitor was loading it the same as if it had three 75ohm resistors in parallel - with an effective impedance of 25 ohms on one signal wire, thus the signal voltage dropped too low
Adrian, you are such a great source of information. i just had a thought, would it be possible to blog or archive the transcripts of your videos to make a searchable reference source for faults and issues dealt with. would anyone find that useful?
15:36 I bet you need ypbpr to vga cable. I had one for an ancient LCD TV years ago.
To solve the connector issues, you could use the monitor upside down and then use the built in rotate function - then the leads are coming out the top. Just a suggestion.
Those old HP PA-RISC boxes used sync-on-green, too. I remember it being a real PITA finding a monitor that would work with one, back in the early 2000s.
I've used various sizes of Eyoyo (and similar brands) for mini arcades and other such projects. The ONE feature that I'd love to see is to be able to adjust overscan. My current retro project is taking a 9" B&W tv and replacing the CRT, adding a Raspberry P 4B+, so I can make a stand-alone game system (with Bluetooth game pads).
I have one of the first Acer widescreen LCDs. Still works like a charm. Was before most anything at all was in widescreen. Had to force resolutions then in games to match. Lol. I don't use it anymore of course last 15 years or more, but it still works fine. I now have a 49" Ultra wide curved. THAT is fantastic.
I have one of these with only composite inputs. I was unimpressed, but kept it.
we used the 12" version of one of these to replace a 13" CRT that went to air in an arcade machine combined with one of those GBS RGB>VGA converters, worked pretty well actually
The Brightness drop isn't from the LCD it's from the light spreder used in the defuse stack for the backlite. I've run into this a few times and when taking them apart the raw defuser does the dimming at angles. Note if you try this to see if it's the defuser it will be brighter without the lcd in the way but will still dim out some at angles.
There are plenty of YPbPr to HD15 (VGA-style) component cables. There are so many, in fact, that I see them at thrift stores almost every time I look. Mojo price sells them too. Of course, you can use any VGA to 5BNC cable for YPbPr with some BNC to RCA adapters on the R, G, and B lines (ignore the H-sync and V-sync lines).
I have been using a no-name 10.1 inch monitor that was sold as a security camera monitor on my bench for a couple of years. It is great because it lets me test a variety of computers without taking up much space. My bench is really small.
For the Application you want I would recommend building one. Research on a LCD Panel and then from there toss in a LVDS converter and all of the format modules. From my experience working with anything smaller then 10 - 13 inch is useless.
I built one using a old Laptop LCD, LVDS converter and with HDMI Adapters to change the video format. I also have one of those Arcade RGB to VGA adapter boards for repairing Arcade Machines.
Man, you have the VESA mount holes right on the back of the LCD! But the monitor is a nice catch... Congrats!
i love that you write on your wall warts in big white letters what their volts and amps are, which is perfect for getting this info at a glance with middle-aged eyes. i've done that with ALL of mine, and then boxed them according to voltage. this saves me so much grief.
What a good idea! I will adopt it too.
@@BertGrink also put them in individual sandwich bags to keep their cords from all getting tangled together
@@gusmueller4413 Oh I just wrap the cord around the wallwart and tie the end around the coil
Btw, Best buy sells an HDMI to composite adapter, and a composite to HDMI adapter, making it possible to use modern computers and game systems on an analog screen/TV, or to use your classic game systems on a modern TV. They also sell VGA to HDMI adapters, and powsibly HDMI to VGA adapters, so you can use classic computers on a modern TV or a modern computer on an analog screen.
You can make a sync on green converter btw, You can find it on Cameron gray's video about the Next Pizza box at about 18 minutes in.
I’ve seen power adapters like that from Chinese sellers where the 240V prongs and the small black plastic shape at their base pull off to reveal a US 120V plug underneath
I know the type you are talking about, it's a little adapter on the end, I had one like that from China too but this one seems like it's a solid plastic PSU and doesn't have the US plug on it.
Being able to be powered by USB-C is quite handy though, especially if you're using it as a portable unit. Just bring a USB power bank, and jack into whatever.
I bought one similar to this with all the same options, and the same dodgy viewing angle. I used it for my ZX Spectrum Laptop I built. LOL. It does a perfect job.
I was looking for a 1280x1024 LCD monitor that had HDMI, S-Video and VGA inputs - with the ability to read PAL and NTSC and a 15kHz signal. I ended up getting a Tyco American Dynamics 17" Multiple Input Monitor (ADLCD17MB) and I am very happy with it. It works very well with a Commodore Amiga using an Amiga RGB to S-Video/VGA adapter. I recommend this monitor if you don't want something as small as the one in this video and don't mind the 4:3 ratio.
from what i can see it looks pretty good to me for the price and features it has.
It's possible that the VGA to BNC cable has some kind of monitor detect wiring inside it that advertises RGB. No clue why it would want sync on red, though.
Another commenter suggested that the component inputs were simply not brought out to plugs on the back. That seems much more likely but still doesn't explain sync on red.
An interesting test would be the 15kHz RGB output in the various modes of Atari ST and Amiga.... but this would be stuff for another video I guess.... But thanks a lot for this one!
It looks quite decent for the cost. I'll be keeping hold of the 2 nec multisync lcds I have though, I got the 18" one originally for the fact it supports sync on green for SGI computers, but I ended up giving the Sun and SGI computers away due to lack of space.
Have used projectors that use the vga port for RGB, component and analog HD video inputs to save money on ports and space
YPbPr input via a VGA port is pretty common on projectors, though they usually come with an adapter. Not all the adapters are the same, though.
Looks very similar to the one I got for fitting into one of my Amstrad PPC640s :D
May I ask, were you inspired by Noel´s Retro Lab? 😁
@@BertGrink No actually, I'll have to look into that! I bought mine about 18 months ago I just never got round to doing it :P
OMG, now I want to see more random tiny Chinese monitors tested. I would love to have a small display with sync-on-green for my bench.
There's a schematic for a simple SoG to RGBHV converter on raphnet, shouldn't cost more than a few dollars to build.
Keep an eye out for nec multisync 18" lcd monitors. Quite a few support SoG. The 18" one is not much bigger than this one, though theyre vga only.
I bought one of these a few years ago, and at unboxing one of the pixels had physically melted a tiny hole in the screen. I use it for throwing a monitor on stuff that doesn't live near my other PCs, like the NAS in the basement. The OSD still baffles me every time.
This looks like the type of monitor I've installed in MANY big rigs (semi trucks, 18 wheelers, or lorries for you people across the pond). Great for backup or blind spot cameras.
For a stand, I vote for attaching it to the sour cream container permanently with the double sided adhesive.
For my retro computing / gaming, I got a used Dell 2007FP monitor on eBay which is 4:3, has Composite/VGA/DVI-D/S-Video, and a small sound bar. It's old, CCFL, and TN, but it honestly looks pretty good and scales lower resolutions well. For RGB inputs, I built a couple GBSControl units with SCART connectors. They are amazing.
The 2001FP is IPS and I thought all the 20" 1600x1200 displays were as well. Are you sure yours is TN?
@@eDoc2020 I'm not sure, it's a Dell 2007FPb. It does look better than most TN panels, but not entirely convinced it's IPS.
I have a 2007FPb and it's definitely IPS. Maybe the CCFL backlight is throwing you. It's doing N64 duty like a trooper. 240p over S-video works right.
The component input definitely should sync on the green cable. The firmware is really buggy IMHO. The sync on red is probably why sync on green RGB isn't working either, maybe even the flakey VGA with the retrotank?
Back in early 2000s I used a PC connected to a high end Toshiba CRT TV via a home made cable using component output on an early (ATI) Radeon card via the VGA port.
These are great for little shoe-box and picture-frame-glass teleprompters.
I suggest changing the flip so you can use the monitor upside down that would solve all your input problems, but off angle might be worse that direction!
I'd put the name of the product into the title so people looking for reviews can find it
It should be easy to find as it's in the description, but it seems he didn't use any video tags?
BTW: When I google for Eyoyo EM08C CZcams, this video is the first result.
but then where would you put the click bait?
I’ve been hunting for the “ultimate” display since I first owned a computer, back in 1982. Hope you found it, so I can stop. :-)
Well, I have not been searching as long as you, but for 3 years now and I have come to the conclusion, there is no All-in-wonder display/converter. However, I have come to my personal conclusion its best to have a standard monitor which does standard stuff best and let the awkward signals being handled by specialized converters. I know, not a nice solution because the amount of hdmi splitter, vga converter and various other converters easily pile up behind the monitor. Add to that, if you do not make a marking system so that you can identify the leads and connectors to which converter what goes and splitter switch sheets, you'll be hopelessly lost in no time. I've been there 😑, I've done that 😉.
Sony Trinitron w900 le.slmething like that, CRT monitor that can go to 2K resolution in 4:3 or 16:9
@@sos.gamers Hmmm, sony did make some special crts back in the day but so did Eizo and I can remember, all of Eizos were above and beyond, especially in the connection department. But lets face it, crts are a dead brood, any modern bad tft/ips panel can surpass the best crts from back then. The only thing that remedies crts, is their broadband compatibility towards older analog signal types. Make a diy display and spend a few bucks more on a proper display controller and maybe build in one or two special converters and any crts pro is easily knocked out. At the end of the day, it all boils down on the display controller, be it a crt with excellent analog features or tft/ips. If the decoding module is garbage, it will not take half of the signals.
@@bloeckmoep I disagree with TFT LCD IPS screen been better than CRT, if you say Oled displays well that's fine but any other technology can't match a CRT in black levels, color and brightness, even led tvs that has HDR are trying to imitate the Brightness and contrast of CRT displays.
@@sos.gamers I for one, am happy to not be using CRT screens any more. Big, clunky... inbuilt VGA cable... yeah, I don't miss them...
You might be interested in one of those retina iPad LCD controllers. I think that (with a retrotink) would be the perfect combination. 3D print whatever kind of case you want.
I saw one in use recently -- it looked very nice. The problem is the lack of case and all that -- I liked the idea of something all self-contained like this and not fragile.
@@adriansdigitalbasement2 You could also buy a pre-made case for the iPad LCD from Laser Bear Industries. RetroRGB recently did a stream where they put one together.
@@adriansdigitalbasement2 I recently tried two different controllers for iPad2 LCDs and both were terrible. Both had trouble syncing. One had severe artifacting when displaying VGA resolutions and the other couldn't display them without terrible overscan and wonky colours. Maybe they were just broken? Ymmv but the other annoying thing was that the OSD of *both* controllers displayed the resolution in a little box in the corner every time the resolution changed with no way of turning the feature off.
That sony bluray player caught my eye, it appears to have a navigation screen very similar to the PS3. Just a thought but maybe you'd do a quick 2nd channel video on that?
Sony's XMB was a standard part of their design language for a while back then, I think. They abandoned it after a while.
This might be perfect for my Ultimate64Elite! But I need some sort of audiobreaker for extra speakers (HDMI).
FYI: This OSD looks like pretty standard Realtek RTD2660/2662 controller firmware.
yep ! so should be easy to reflash or patch
I tore it down and used the LCD and control board in my “pet laptop” project. It is great. I got mine on Amazon.
Remember those old iPad screens you got a couple of mailcall video's ago? You could have built one of these yourself. Those are 4:3 as well. I'm in the process of building one myself, currently designing a case to be 3d printed.
If someone sold a case to hold the LCD and controller, that would be amazing. Something with a little stand. I gave away those iPads so unfortunately don't have them anymore.
I have a couple of OLPC XO tablets, I've wanted to fond a way to repurpose them as screens (since I can't find a way flash it with a stripped-down, newer Android image)
I remember seeing those controller boards to reuse old laptop panels, they had for ipads too, and with a case
However I'm not sure what keyboard to throw into AliExpress to find them again, since stuff like "iPad display controller" or "iPad to HDMI" didn't give the wanted results.
Bought my TV as it had component. Went to connect my original Xbox and heart sank as no connector. Relieved as manual said "YPrPb via VGA". Found out VGA to Red Green Blue phono adapters are a thing. Worked fine with audio through Red White of composite. I'm dumb so just do what I'm told. Plug in what fits without understanding 😂
The VGA port is used for ypbr
33:42: There's an article online that's titled "Apple II and RGB Video" by Joel Buckley (from 11/7/2002) that describes the Apple IIgs as having sync on each of R, G, and B. Your Apple IIc appears to be built the same way. I don't really know why the sync was only picked up when you connected the Red component. One might speculate that maybe R could be a weaker signal here and less likely to interfere with or overwhelm the sync, but that's just me spitballing.
This monitor seems to be using those V56 LCD controllers that are sold on Aliexpress, and the board does have a component input. It's probably hidden under the monitor case.
Yep.Exactly what i thought. Thata an universal LVDS controller which are really good for reusing old laptop screens, by uploading the right firmware thru the USB port. I have two of those, so im curious about the lcd panel itself..would be nice to know the model number of it.
Great Video. I have both The c64maxi and regular original commodore 64 from 1984. I wanted to use this monitor for both (composite on original c64) and hdmi on the maxi. I understand that without retrothink the original c64 will not working properly due to flickering effect ? Thank you . is this version 8" too small ?
So to use this, don’t forget to order the Sour Cream as an option 😉. Thank you for making these videos!
Unfortunately the lack of fruit yoghurt compatibility is a real deal-breaker, for me 😏
bdwilcox says: "Hey kids. I was just a tech wannabe who couldn't solder to save his life. But now that I've been eating my delicious and nutritious Daisy Sour Cream, my solders would make even Adrian Black jealous. So eat nutritious Daisy Sour Cream, full of vitamin A and calcium for strong teeth and bones. Now sold in the dairy/deli section of your favorite grocers."
Tell 'em you want a dollop of daisy with that lcd!
Kinda glad it doesn't work with sync on green. The thought of somebody hooking an SGI up to one of these cheap 8" screens fills me with dread! :)
HAHAH!!!!!!
Eyoyo has some cool stuff. like a bluetooth barcode scanner ring :D
Seen this one out there, too bad it doesn't come in that retro beige color. Would kinda like to use this with my nes pi 4 case
this is a good video
Usually, in devices like this, YPbPr is done through an adapter plugged into the VGA port; I'm guessing they're using a non-standard pinout though. -- As for the contractors, maybe look into getting some right angle adapters.
I wonder how this monitor would work as a replacement for a "luggable" PC like the Amstrad PPC512 that Noel Llopis (Noel's Retro Lab) did.
I have the 14" 1024x768 version. Similar or worse view angles, and a glossy surface. IT handles composite well and has the same menus tructure. I haven't tried DOS modes yet but I expect it's the same as your 8" monitor.
Yeah just wish it handed non interlaced composite video properly. I've had a few other people report the 14" and 10" models are good
I noticed when you connected the monitor through the HDMI-VGA adapter that the lights on the RetroTink flashed. That makes me suspicious of two possibilities: one, maybe the adapter is trying to power itself from the VGA port and the monitor isn't able to supply enough power, or two, the monitor's EDID might be confusing the adapter and/or the RetroTink. You need a DA or something like that to isolate the power/EDID from the video format part of the test.
Thanks for the video! It's actually quite an interesting monitor. Indefinite revision he would not
Adrian, were the other options on the flip screen menu for mirror left right as for use with a back up camera?
15"-17" should be the ultimate retro lcd.
I see great minds think alike, I bought this for my IIc too. 😁
very good
Few months ago I bought a similar monitor from AliExpress, only with a 9.7" screen. It actually had a proper IPS screen with good viewing angles unlike the one you are reviewing. Unfortunately, it does not work well with my PAL Atari 800XE hooked over RetroScaler 2x. It shows the picture and looks nice but apparently it always runs at 60 Hz so anything that should scroll smoothly is jerky. I ended up selling it to a friend who will use it with a Raspberry Pi.
Maybe the DE-15 connector does NOT take YpBpR on the RGB pins, but rather on other pins. I think some projectors do this also
A lot of older Sharp LCD's required you to have all of the YPbPr connectors terminated in the dual AV/Component jacks in order for the video processing to trigger.
Just got to the VGA section, damn that sucks =(
Hi Adrain, Hoping you can help, Can you let me know what the power requirements are for this little Monitor ? Im looking for a small, low power, unit for hooking up my Raspberry Pi to !! :D Great Channel, Keep up the good work.
@29:47, your retro-tank may be outputting 3.3v TTL logic on the H & V sync outputs. Some RGB samplers, like the one in the Eyoyo may require the old standard 5v TTL logic levels on the H&V sync inputs. So, the Eyoyo may just be going into power save mode, but may still work on some modes as it may be an edge case, or a difference in sync polarity based on video mode can help or hinder video mode recognition. This would not be an issue with older VGA cards which have the 5V TTL sync levels. Either that, or it's just lousy improperly tested firmware.
would a 3.3v to 5v level shifter adaptor help with this maybe?
@@fumthings We are at a point in time where it is not worth the effort. If you truly want a good universal monitor, it would take a designer which has experience with all these old modes and really knows what they are doing and has all the proper video simulator test generators which are designed to send every good and lemon mode you can imagine. Such a developed monitor would never become profitable just because of the engineering time and effort required to truly do a good job.
on the playstation -- if the player plays upside-down, just open the unit and turn the metal slider rod in the assembly a bit, it'll continue working again for a long time. don't forget to lube.
The numbers are a match for the first-generation iPad mini display. Maybe the bad viewing angles are because of the matte cover glass.
yeah, these screens are all based on this controller that you can find on banggood or aliexpress.
If you have an old laptop panel you can use one of these to make a comparable or even better panel than that monitor.
It's funny how this controller costs now twice the price I had paid 2 years ago.
These mini monitors like this are all over the place and the prices vary greatly depending who you buy from. Like you said, useful for testing but not much else.
The stuff with the component input is very odd. Have you used that VGA to BNC converter before? I'm wondering if maybe it wasn't wired up correctly (as in, the color of the wires not properly corresponding to the intended pins).
22:00: The actual pixel resolution (sans overscan) for VGA 9x16 chars in 80x25 text mode should be *720x400* (and do ignore the lies on Wikipedia).
Alternatively, the highest standard VGA (non-SVGA) graphics resolution would be the 640x480 like you mentioned, but "720x480" isn't really a thing.
for the mac II you have to add a nubus video card then that weird problem goes away and it can even use vga monitors then to. I have one with 20mb of vram that someone put in.
I knew right away that was not an IPS panel seeing the viewing angle in the manual.
They do seem to have an IPS version on Aliexpress (170° viewing angle) but either the wrong one was ordered.. or they sent the wrong product; probably the latter. I would've raised a complaint!
i wonder if it would do 15khz RGB? The PS1 and PS2 output that natively.
use vga for the best text.you were wanting sinc on green comp, you got sinc on red rgb.
When the Tink line doubles a PAL signal it outputs 576p NOT 480p. I but your VGA input would work fine with the tink hooked up to an NTSC device
Have you tried all other pins for the chroma signal?