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You can make a homemade version of the jelly with hot vinegar and cornstarch. Works WONDERS for regular rust on iron surfaces. As for those cancer warnings, I once stayed at a hotel in San Francisco that had one of those attached to the hairdryer. Apparently, IF on fire the fumes from the plastic can cause cancer.

IPA and a micro-fiber cloth worked for me. Put it on the cloth and ran it back and forth along an old Vader 2600 whose cord had some styrofoam residue. Yes, it takes a little elbow grease, but it works fine.

I used to be in to guns. A friend of mine who was also into them and had a gun shop used to also be into metal detectors and such. He once went magnet fishing in a nearby river and found a .22 rifle that had been submerged in the river for what must have been several years. So we took it to my gun shop in my basement and coated it with Navel Jelly, it worked pretty well but the outside of the gun was deeply pitted and, of course all the bluing was gone. So we went over the gun with sand paper, then steel wool then cold bluing, it came out looking almost like an engraved rifle! Looked kind of cool and the thing about .22s is that the bullets are coated with a sort of wax lube so the bore of the rifle cleaned up very nicely. We located a stock for the old rifle, and I cleaned up the insides so the gun fired, he sold it as an engraved rifle for several hundred bucks. Our investment back then was around 40 bucks of parts the stock and cold bluing chemicals. Navel Jelly is indeed a wonder product.

You can exclude a part of memory from being cached so extensions cards can use this part per DMA without causing every write to get the cache flushed IIRC.

awesome analysis

Tropicalisation Varnish... is what we used for that...

In the mid 90s, i had my computer connected to many BBS systems. I had a BBS setup on my computer, it was called Ziptank BBS. And after connecting to many BBS systems, my account was added to the disconnect screen. And it got really busy with all the Shareware software I had. I met a person on the system, and we became really good friends.

"Why's am I covered ins goo?" That stuff so reminds me of that pink slime stuff in Ghostbusters 2

I really love the 'after dark' vibe. I also enjoyed watching the chess game at the end.

Just acquired an IPC and have exactly the same damage. Adrian, you legend ❤️ Thank you

Hmm, the Naval jelly didn't explicitly say you couldn't use it on your navel. 🤔😁

next project is fully socketed motherboard

now fix the capacitors to make it ez to see + - cheers

We have had that jelly around forever :) Been using it for over 30 years myself, but on car chassis work and other things. When it comes to the connector to the motherboard - I know it's kinda outside the scope of what you normally do, and I don' tknow how, but there has to be some way to coat it with something - like electroplating it, if not with gold, but somethign that doesn't oxidize as fast as copper, but also harder than tin. I agree tin is not a smart idea. Should be emergency solution only. :). It doesn't have to be gold plating tho.

Dear Technoid Savant, I found some rather surprising information for you with regard to your CGA adapter's worn male edge connector. Unfortunately this platform does not allow us to post hyperlinks within messages. However just copy and paste the following data into your favorite search engine and then you will be able to proceed. There are only 5 or 6 results so you won't suffer from techno-babble overload but those pages are indeed quite enlightening. I'm almost certain that you will be able to produce some astounding procedures from the information contained in the those pages. So without further delay copy and paste the following parameters into any search engine (without the quotes): " (repair,preserve,protect) (worn,gold,edge) (connector,pins,fingers) (pc,computer) (video,cga,adapter,card) " Or these variations will produce slightly different results (I didn't research deep enough to exclude them): " (repair,preserve,protect) worn (gold,edge) (pins,fingers) (pc,computer) (video,cga) ( adapter,card) " " (repair,preserve,protect) (gold,edge) (connector,pins,fingers) (pc,computer) (adapter,card) " I was both surprised and amazed at the precise nature of the information that I saw on some of those pages. I have no doubt whatsoever that you will be able to adapt and utilize the information for your own specifications and purposes, if you are so inclined. Reminder: Don't include the quotation marks when you copy the phrase into your search engine or you will come up empty. Happy trails and my best regards.

you slimed it :- )

From what I could tell, naval jelly is basically phosphoric acid and water with a gelling agent, which makes sense.

I know I was going to hear "It freakin' works". 😉

Also, I've one more comment. Please use ESD protection. As an electronics engineer I know that ESD can cause damage and even though things might work OK the long term reliability is affected. Since you are dealing with components that are not replaceable it would make me feel better :)

Hi, I really enjoy your videos but this is the first time commenting. I've looked at plating before and I think brush electroplating would be best to restore the edge connections. If you connect all the edge pin to 0 V, whether you want to plate them or not, the board will be protected during the electroplating process. Then you can do the electro-cleaning and nickel plating safely and ensure you get a thick and reliable gold layer. I'm not sure those jewelry gold restoring solutions would give a thick enough gold layer and would wear quickly.

There is actually a product marketed under the name Stabilent 22, known as a contact enhancer. When I was working in the Comm. Dept. at a Class 1 Railroad, we used this regularly, with our multi-slot radio controllers, at the various radio sites. It's not cheap, but worked wonders on edge connectors. I think we bought ours through Motorola, but there are other vendors, who sell it. I'm planning on attending VCFMW in 2024, so I'll look you up.

Hilarious I needed help removing rust between the knurling on my dumbbells, so this inadvertently helped me in a non-tech situation. Thanks! 😂

Adrian, DEC published many excellent user & maintenance/service manuals for their hardware & most software, at least in the "early days" before the '80s. The VT220 is definitely included in hardware with good manuals. Bitsavers and many other sites will have freely downloadable copies of these manuals. I recommend that you at least take a look at the VT220 User Manual -- I don't recall what's in it, but it*may* give you an idea about how to type an equivalent for the ESCape key, along with explaining the various controls in and on the terminal.

I was a firmware developer on the VT240/220 development team at DEC's Terminals Business Unit. The cable that connects the LK201 keyboard to the terminal is not a telephone cable. This keyboard was the first to incorporate the inverted T arrow key configuration. The VT100 and all subsequent DEC terminals accepted ANSI Escape sequences to control the advanced features of character mode operation such as selecting code page tables for foreign language localization, line drawing, split screen scrolling and other features. The VT220 was a cost reduction of the VT100 character-based terminal whereas the VT240 was a cost reduction of the VT125 graphics terminal. The graphics capabilities were controlled by a special drawing API called ReGIS, short for Remote Graphic Instruction Set.

Reliable computer hardware… a concept Lenovo completely abandoned starting two years ago. 15 years of selling enterprise level Lenovo laptops and I’ve had more laptops fail in the past 6 months than the previous 14 years combined. I had to rant after hearing how reliable old computer hardware used to be. I hope Dell is a good choice to switch to.

I'll say it before, and I'll say it again. If literally everything is "found by the state of California to cause cancer," it's almost as if there's another common denominator there....

I'm usually able to find out what ingredients are in things by looking up the MSDS sheet for it. The Jelly one says it has these ingredients: Phosphoric acid 7664-38-2 10 - 30 2-Propanol 67-63-0 1 - 5 Xanthan gum 11138-66-2 1 - 5 Sulfuric acid 7664-93-9 0.1 - 1 Silica, amorphous, fumed, crystal-free 112945-52-5 0.1 - 1 Diiron trioxide 1309-37-1 0.1 - 1 Magnesium oxide 1309-48-4 0.1 - 1 Aluminium oxide 1344-28-1 0.1 - 1 Alcohols, C11-14-iso-, C13 rich, EO~

I've suggested that you use Phosphoric Acid on your channel and other channels I'm the past, i personally like the Rust-Oleum Rust Dissolver over Naval Jelly because it comes in a spray bottle and just seems to be more effective even though they both have the same active ingredient.

id leave the pins alone, if concerned about it in storage id put on some dielectric grease so they wont corrode in storage and you could use the card that way also and it wont corrode in the socket either

I have a DEC VT320 on my desk.. .and the keyboard is absolutely awful.

I've had connectors loose connection due to WD40, due to a thin film that was left on the surface. Almost impossible to spot, would absolutely not recommend.

I remember about using cold tinning powder in high school. Maybe it can do the trick for the edge connector ?

All this says to me that the ram is struggling to operate at the clock speed of the board. Ram in that day could be too slow OR too fast for the board. Stuff like what you're seeing happened to me, but it was on a 386sx40 ... which ran screaming fast but only had a 16bit bus... and it was difficult to expand the board memory, and I eventually gave up and just used 8 or 16 bit expansion buss memory, which killed the system speed, but let me run bigger programs. But .... find -150 memory (I think), not -120 ... it appears the board has mixed -150 ms (or is it us) and -120ms chips. that screams smoking gun.

When Adrian was born, Chuck Norris said: oh shit, I've got competition! As an engineer point of view, I think that your debugging logic is unbeatable, for a self taught retro PC enthusiast.

If you spray WD40 you can forget anything else ever bonding to it like nail polish imo. Or you have to degrease it completely.

That Area5150 demo was neat. Color gradients reminiscent of the Amiga Copperlist tricks, high resolution multicolor graphics... I think they do something similar even, like editing the palette references on the fly. The Amiga could display fairly high color counts in a highish resolution, non-HAM image by palette splitting. Also lately, the C64 has received some demos that do tricks that shouldn't have been technically possible at all.

None of the crtc/hornet demos need something so fancy as an xtide - they work fine off the original hard drive that came in the XT

7:40 I’m going to push back just a little on the Prop 65 hate. The coffee thing is new to me and is silly obviously. But I am VERY HAPPY to be told that a product contains a cancer causing agent to help remind me to be careful when I use it, and to wash my hands afterwards. I don’t see any reason to scoff at such a warning when all of history has shown us companies don’t care about their consumers health, only their bottom line.

You could try Nickel plating with one connection on the pad and the other on some cotton pad and wipe along surface, I think you can also get Gold solution as well to try same method ...

Old tech is extremely reliable (thick chip DIE helps too), and 40 to 50 years later, any tech minded such as Adrian will be able to find documentation that was not such widely available in the past. I suspect that current technology won't survive that easily 40 years from now.

Henkel is a German Company!

Hi Adrian greetings from the UK, love the videos. I’ve used a similar product but not on pcb’s. Works fine. However I would wear gloves when using that gel. Those chemicals look a bit iffy.

Mostly phosphoric acid and a gelling agent.

On the note of the edge connector... if I were in your place, I'd probably just tin the entire thing with solder, even the gold pins. make sure the entire contact is coated, then use copper braid to remove as much solder as possible, really thin coat.

You probably know by now: there are gold plating pens for sale. Probably not as hard agains wear than the plating process in a PCB shop, but sufficient for anti-corosion.

Welcome New Patrons: *Displaced Gamers* ❤

If you decide to solder ‘plate’ the gold fingers remember that solder will oxidize as well. Some other commenters are suggesting a gold plating process that sounds like a better solution. It would also be interesting for we viewers who haven’t seen it before.

if it works, i vote leave it as is. great vid as always