These are the Tools and Parts I Recommend: Transmission Filter Kit- 1995-1998 2WD- amzn.to/3aYYHdy 4WD- amzn.to/3b2zmQ1 1999-2011 2WD- amzn.to/2xLnkMD 4WD- amzn.to/3b4ZRV5 Transmission Funnel- amzn.to/3b3HgbK Mercon V Transmission Fluid and Filter- amzn.to/38V6veU As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases.
I have a 93 f250 5.8L. The transmission does not shift automatically. From 1st it dumps into overdrive. If i shift manually on the column all gears are there. Any suggestions Fordtechmakuloco?
Question: I have a 1998 Ford Expedition 5.4L Triton engine, P0171 and P0174 lean codes, and I can also hear a lot of air. I've checked all vacuum lines and am convinced it's the intake manifold gasket. But my question is-> Can a bad manifold gasket leak coolant into the oil? I keep finding yellow sludge inside the oil cap and filler tube BUT the oil on the dip-stick looks perfectly normal.
@@REGARDSxAxVIRGIN the yellow sludge, or pudding on the cap and fill neck is not coolant related. It is condensate that accumulates there from the engine not reaching full temperature for long enough to burn out the moisture. That fill cap is the highest point, so the moisture and oil vapor turns into that goopy looking pudding. My 2006 did that, especially in the cold weather, I made a winterfront for the radiator, to help get the engine temp up a bit more, and a bit quicker. The air hiss may be intake manifold related, but if it isn't running rough or throwing a lean code, it may be intake plenum/airbox related. Possibly an obstruction, or loose clamp on the snorkel. I once had a plastic bag get pulled into the fender intake, and it got lodged in the snorkel.
I have a 2001 4.0L 4x4 and the engine is so quiet and smooth running it is amazing. Purchased it new and always changed the oil at 3,000 - 4,000 miles. Original spark plugs. Never been to the shop. This summer I will change the transmission fluid and filter. Thanks for the video!
A tip for you to minimize the mess, i run a vacuum line down the dipstick tube and extract as much oil as I can. You can pick up those fluid extractors all over the place now.
Those transmissions bring back memories. I used to rebuild the valve bodies for those transmissions. They started coming in for rebuilds about 1997. Lots of small springs and valves inside of those valve bodies, and no 2 parts were alike.
The repair manual I have says 120 inch pounds for the pan. I’ve always thought that was too tight. I’m glad I heard the 89 inch pound number from you. I recently changed the gasket and it’s leaking like hell because I crushed the gasket. Thanks for the info.
Excellent tutorial! It felt like I was in transmission school. Your style of instruction is really helpful. So Many Tips you offer along the way. Thanks!
@@NY411Info My Ranger had a huge one. And it was caused by crappy OEM fluid. If a person doesn't get the OEM fluids out asap, you're playing Russian roulette.
Spin on filter for the transmission will not stop crap from getting into the valve body or the front pump. So what are you getting at ? Your wrecking your transmission ?? Where did you install it ? On the cooler lines. It won't do crap on the cooler lines, but keep your oil cooler clean.
@Brad Penet Your a funny guy. A external filter will do nothing to protect a transmission. The oil in the pan is what needs to be filtered before it gets to the oil pump and the rest of the parts such as the valve body and clutch piston and band servos. The only way to protect the transmission is to filter it in the pan and replace the filter before it clogs up. A clogged filter will cause clutch plates to slip then burn off the friction material. If you don't understand the operation of a transmission don't comment about my comment. www.sonnax.com/tech_resources/131-anatomy-of-a-transmission-oil-flow-in-the-pump-pr-converter-cooler-lube-circuits
Thank you for the video! Wish it was as quick on 4WD models. On my '99 Eddie Bauer, the front driveshaft is in the way of the pan, and you have to wiggle it through to pull the pan out. Bit of a mess, but I cover up the exhaust to prevent ATF splashing on it and clean everything up in the process. Ended up getting an aftermarket pan with a drain plug to make the process just that wee bit easier. :-)
If the fluid hasn't been changed in 80k miles. And is slipping from 1st to 2nd and the fluid has a strong burnt smell. Don't bother changing any fluid. It will cause it to crap out on these 5r models. Especially the 5R44E with the gasket leak and servo wear. If the fluid has a burnt smell the trans needs a soft overhaul. No way around it. Fresh fluid will washout the burnt clutches. If the fluid is still red or light brown just dump a bottle of Lucas in and hope you can get another 50k out of it. Mine is a 5r55e and had a bottle dumped in at 90k in 2010. It's now 2021 and 130k miles. Fluid is still light brown and smells horrible. That Lucas saved it for 10 years. I'm still impressed. Got lucky and it softened up the gasket.
Thanks for that info. I wasn't aware that the two marks on the deepstick is the cold mark not hot. So tgat explains why my transmission is acting up. It's low on fluid.
You already know reading this comment.. Perfect timing lmao.... T-oil change in a few weeks, and I gotta get the drive shaft off to replace the front/rear main seal+cover(crusty) for a Dif leak. Missing the bearing press so I'll have to eventually buy one or rent one. All on a 04" Ranger XLT. It's been shifting pretty hard in park hard.
Thanks for the awesome video! I just wish it would have been up a couple of weeks back when I did my 01 ranger, but I believe I read your post on a forum and followed that guide to get the job done. Thanks again!
Thanks for another great tech demonstration... I'm still blown away by the fix I got away with on my F150 trans. valve body because of you... Also, I found that a small, plastic cement mixing container from Home Depot works great for the mess of dropping a trans. pan.
I had the flexplates breaking problem on the 1996 Ford Explorer Eddie Bauer Edition 4.0 liter V6 and once on a 2000 Ford Escort SE. The Ford Escort I heat tempered the flexplates for 450°f for a half an hour and then at 500°f for another half an hour. Then doubled converter seals up, added a steel spacer plate, and put lock washers and lock tight on the crank hub bolts that go through the flexplate. It never broke again or leaked. But the ignition switch or wiring in steering column or dash caught fire and burned the driver side dash and steering. I got $65 for the whole car.😟
I used to own 1996 Ford Explorer Eddie Bauer Edition. It kept snapping the flexplates, the last one I put myself and I bench pressed the transmission into place while my dad put some of the bell housing bolts cross brace in.😅It left me stranded near Navajo Arizona, I abandonded it and and gifted the keys, and title to a Guy named Darryl that works for a towing company located at Sanders Arizona. It went through five flexplates! It shifted fine I think it is just to weak of flexplates.
Anybody out there also change out the TCC, EPC and 4x shift solenoids while they had the pan down? Any recommendations or tricks for doing that job. I've scoured the internet forums and no one seems to discuss this in great detail.
Hey. I really like your Channel and been subscribed for a while now. You are one of those who like to give in depth information and instruction which is what I look for and appreciate. Am curious if you have any stickers or ever plan to have any?? Exterior grade vinyl and happy to pay for them as I need TWO stickers for my little project I'm working on. Keep up the great work and always happy to see content from you.
One thing that is a constant in your videos is the corrosion under these vehicles. The frame on this one looked pretty suspect. Its too bad there isn't better coatings for the metals or the metals themselves a better alloy. Unfortunately all the crap that they put on the road is the cause. The vortex of sand, salt and de-icer whipping around under there at highway speed must be unreal.
Designed obsolescence as well. A Ranger is a 10 year vehicle by design. A Focus is a 5 year vehicle by design. Usually they go by price point. Chevy Cavalier 5 year vehicle. Car companies suck.
Thanks for sharing this! Do you have one on valve body gasket replacements or dropping/replacing the valve body? @19:50 why Mercon if manufacturer says different? Thanks for helping us Ford owners who won't give up on keeping them roadworthy--
I have an 2011 4x4 ranger, no shield for the trains. fail the first time at 50K miles, now at 182K miles, could this being because no shield on the trains? any links to check the solenoids?
What do you think about either putting a drain plug in the pan or buying a aftermarket pan with a drain plug? Recommended or just an opportunity for leaks?
So you're more inclined to bring the car in for service. Now, when they removed the underhood dipstick, that made it even more impossible to do the job yourself.
I heard you should try to re-use the origional gasket if it's still on it and is in good shape, they say the replacement aftermarket gaskets are crap and leak.
I have a question about my 2011 Ford Ranger Transmission. It was supposed have been replaced about 2 1/2 years ago and was working fine until last year when a problem started occurring. when leaving to go somewhere the transmission would go into drive fine, however after going a short distance of a few blocks and usually when coming to a stoplight, when I go to accelerate from the stop the transmission lose drive gear, after stopping and shifting into park, or reverse it eventually will engage again and go on shifting normally. A couple times it did continue to slip. However it typically would return to normal operation without further problems. I found the problem seemed to be less frequent during the hot Phoenix summer. I checked the fluid level and it was ok. I found more increasingly lately I would lose drive when entering the freeway during acceleration and have avoided driving on the freeway completely. The problem has became very frequent when leaving for the past few months but typically goes away after the initial loss of drive which will "Engage' after a few seconds or longer and no longer slip or act up and operate normally. Today while driving close by after and during rain and cooler temps that Drive completely failed after stopping a couple places a block away and then refueling. Reverse also would not engage completely and slipped, but D1 and D2 worked ok and I did make it home. I tried several time to go and try it in Drive and Reverse, and drove around the mobile home park to see if things would return to normal, but it continues to slip badly. It did flash the O/D light during these tests which from my research indicated slippage after 3 attempts. I tried adding additional fluid but the problem continued. Tonight I let it run idling in park for about 20 minutes. When I tried it again it seemed to work as normal without slippage, however I did not take it out on the street, only at slower speed around the park where it did shift from 1st to 2nd fine and had no apparent slippage. Last year I did remove the equivalent of a bottle of Lucus Transmission Treatment worth of transmission fluid drawn from the Dipstick Tube, and added the Lucus treatment hoping to resolve the issues, which did seem to help, but may have been due to operating at hotter temps during the summer. Do you have any suggestions? Would a fluid & filter change be advised? I would guess I have about 30K miles on the "Replaced Transmission" and everything operated normal for over a year until the problems stated occurring. The fluid I removed looked good, not dark or contaminated. Do these symptoms indicate a problem with transmission electronic controls/computer module or shift solenoids? Any ideas or help would be greatly appreciated. I have tried finding videos on this ford automatic transmission with similar issues with no luck. It's odd that the transmission fails like this after just driving less than a block or a few blocks and stopping, not able to engage in drive when starting forward acceleration again, then within a few seconds or sometime after rolling to place to pull over then stopping, trying shifting to park, reverse etc.. then it will engage and operate normally with no slippage. I just found today that D1& D2 worked when Drive and Reverse would slip badly with almost no engagement, just slight forward and backward movement respectively. I did not rev the motor excessively as to not do damage, or have a "Hard Engagement" and break something.
I have a pan with a drain plug from for that trans. From Dorman. When I went to open it thought the whole bung twisted out :lol:. They powder coated the bolt threads. Lucky I kept my old one. They sent a replacement.
@@Malossianoplus I still didn't learn my lesson. I bought a trans line (same trans) from Dorman. There was a wrong flare fitting. LUCKY I didn't take a tool to it. It is in a tough spot and you can't see. Two threads went it but I knew it wasn't right. Dorman sent me another line, then they sent me a Ford Tube.
There’s cross over exhaust pipe that goes under the pan blocking access to bolts on my 2003 Ranger 3.0 FFV. Any special techniques or tools for that issue?
Mystery for you. 02 Mountaineer 4.6 246k change filter and fluid front and read diff. 3rd change since on trans since 95k now when the truck is on a incline slope with the brake pedal depressed in 1st gear and when the fluid is below 120 degree in drive it looses gear and rolls back. Need to rev engine to about 1500 and it locks in. Didnt have the problem before fluid change. After the fluid is up to temp its ok.
Frank Cancel they don’t want you to service them. That way they will fail sooner and when they do it’s more costly. That almost guarantees and new car will be bought instead of repaired.
Hi, I've notice that there are two types of filters, one is entirely flat but the other has the spout or opening that protrudes, how do i know which one to use and what is the purpose for this?
Hey again-when I start my engine it just barely turns over and stops w a clunk. I think its the starter can you please tell me how difficult and expensive it is to replace starter in 01 Explorer Sport? Thank you-
What are those two bolts on the driver side next to the shifter linkage with the 3/8s plug on the bolt head?? Can i pull that out and use it to fill the transmission??
The only problem I see is that aftermarket kit has a different bolt size, what happens down the road if you go back to the oem filter and don't have the right size bolt.
AWESOME video.. my only and i mean only warning, it they used an aftermarket filter in this video.. Id recommend goin to Ford and getting the Factory replacement! just my 40+ year exp tech advice to you... Fluid brand dont matter, but factory filter does
I just did the change on my 97 Ford Ranger this weekend. Bought it 5 years ago with 108,000 miles now it has 191,000 miles. It was changed before I owned it and I never realized I needed to change it. So my question is how many pan drops should I do to have nice clean fluid? Truck shifts smooth
On my f150 I dropped the pan once and changed the rest of the fluid through the trans cooler line. Start the engine Let a qt bleed from the cooler line ( it happens quick having a helper is ideal) turn off engine then fill with a qt of new fluid through the dipstick. Repeat this process until the fluid coming out of the cooler line Looks clean
Great video. I purchased a super clean 2wd 2002 extended cab 3.0 ranger last year with 140k miles. I have no service history on the tranny, engine oil and filter was changed every 3k miles. Based on the color of the tranny fluid I would guess it was serviced once. I plan on doing it soon. My question is, I have heard if auto tranny's have not been serviced for long periods or never, and you service them, the new fluid can remove the varnish or buildup and cause slipping and therefore you should service it twice under these circumstances(like, fairly soon after the initial fluid change it should be serviced again). Is there any truth in that theory?
I have a 2002 ranger with code p0715 for the turbine speed sensor. I checked the ohm readings at the connector and it is good. Not sure when the fluid was changed last. Any chance a fluid change could solve the issue? That's something I could do before having to take to a trans shop?
These are the Tools and Parts I Recommend:
Transmission Filter Kit-
1995-1998
2WD- amzn.to/3aYYHdy
4WD- amzn.to/3b2zmQ1
1999-2011
2WD- amzn.to/2xLnkMD
4WD- amzn.to/3b4ZRV5
Transmission Funnel-
amzn.to/3b3HgbK
Mercon V Transmission Fluid and Filter-
amzn.to/38V6veU
As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases.
FordTechMakuloco what interval do you recommend on these transmissions? By time or mileage
I have a 93 f250 5.8L. The transmission does not shift automatically. From 1st it dumps into overdrive. If i shift manually on the column all gears are there. Any suggestions Fordtechmakuloco?
Question:
I have a 1998 Ford Expedition 5.4L Triton engine, P0171 and P0174 lean codes, and I can also hear a lot of air. I've checked all vacuum lines and am convinced it's the intake manifold gasket. But my question is-> Can a bad manifold gasket leak coolant into the oil? I keep finding yellow sludge inside the oil cap and filler tube BUT the oil on the dip-stick looks perfectly normal.
@@REGARDSxAxVIRGIN the yellow sludge, or pudding on the cap and fill neck is not coolant related. It is condensate that accumulates there from the engine not reaching full temperature for long enough to burn out the moisture. That fill cap is the highest point, so the moisture and oil vapor turns into that goopy looking pudding. My 2006 did that, especially in the cold weather, I made a winterfront for the radiator, to help get the engine temp up a bit more, and a bit quicker. The air hiss may be intake manifold related, but if it isn't running rough or throwing a lean code, it may be intake plenum/airbox related. Possibly an obstruction, or loose clamp on the snorkel. I once had a plastic bag get pulled into the fender intake, and it got lodged in the snorkel.
@@markk3652 Thank you for the quick response. I was worried about the yellow sludge.
I have a 2001 4.0L 4x4 and the engine is so quiet and smooth running it is amazing. Purchased it new and always changed the oil at 3,000 - 4,000 miles. Original spark plugs. Never been to the shop. This summer I will change the transmission fluid and filter. Thanks for the video!
A tip for you to minimize the mess, i run a vacuum line down the dipstick tube and extract as much oil as I can. You can pick up those fluid extractors all over the place now.
Logical Guy with the Chinese virus 🦠 running rampant, I found it hard to find said extractor.
@@kelliegrase4658 harbor freight sells them. Just remember social distancing.
Mark K I’m following the social distancing to the absolute best of my ability. Hope you are to. Be safe my friend
That's a damn good idea, Logical Guy!
I have XLT 00 4x4 3.0 v6 how many Q take ?
Those transmissions bring back memories. I used to rebuild the valve bodies for those transmissions. They started coming in for rebuilds about 1997. Lots of small springs and valves inside of those valve bodies, and no 2 parts were alike.
The quality of content on this channel is absolutely superb, really appreciate all you do my man 👍
The repair manual I have says 120 inch pounds for the pan. I’ve always thought that was too tight. I’m glad I heard the 89 inch pound number from you. I recently changed the gasket and it’s leaking like hell because I crushed the gasket. Thanks for the info.
Excellent tutorial! It felt like I was in transmission school. Your style of instruction is really helpful. So Many Tips you offer along the way. Thanks!
Your the best ford tech barr none!!! Very precise work, awesome job!!!
While the pan is off, NOW is a really good time to install a DRAIN PLUG!
Yes absolutely! I have been known to just pay 45 bucks for an aftermarket pan at Autozone, with a drain plug installed for me 😝
@@Garth2011 These transmissions don't normally have many problems. Its not the Dodge.
@@NY411Info My Ranger had a huge one. And it was caused by crappy OEM fluid. If a person doesn't get the OEM fluids out asap, you're playing Russian roulette.
@@TheBeatenPaths Hmm.My 03 Ranger is still on the stock fluid with 113,000 and no issues. However my 03 doesn't use Mercon LV fluid
@@NY411Info me too but mine has over 190,000
Every Single car I own, FWD, RWD, 4WD, with an automatic has a drain plug installed AND a spin-on oil filter installed! Cheap and reliable insurance!
Spin on filter for the transmission will not stop crap from getting into the valve body or the front pump. So what are you getting at ? Your wrecking your transmission ?? Where did you install it ? On the cooler lines. It won't do crap on the cooler lines, but keep your oil cooler clean.
@@NY411Info What?
@Brad Penet Your a funny guy. A external filter will do nothing to protect a transmission. The oil in the pan is what needs to be filtered before it gets to the oil pump and the rest of the parts such as the valve body and clutch piston and band servos. The only way to protect the transmission is to filter it in the pan and replace the filter before it clogs up. A clogged filter will cause clutch plates to slip then burn off the friction material. If you don't understand the operation of a transmission don't comment about my comment. www.sonnax.com/tech_resources/131-anatomy-of-a-transmission-oil-flow-in-the-pump-pr-converter-cooler-lube-circuits
Perfect timing !!! I have my 06 ranger and pops 96 ranger to do thanks for the video.
Thanks for the video...we need more Ranger videos.
Thank you for the video! Wish it was as quick on 4WD models. On my '99 Eddie Bauer, the front driveshaft is in the way of the pan, and you have to wiggle it through to pull the pan out. Bit of a mess, but I cover up the exhaust to prevent ATF splashing on it and clean everything up in the process. Ended up getting an aftermarket pan with a drain plug to make the process just that wee bit easier. :-)
I've personally do this on the ground over ramps. The fluid will flow down the pan and now all across, less mess.
If the fluid hasn't been changed in 80k miles. And is slipping from 1st to 2nd and the fluid has a strong burnt smell. Don't bother changing any fluid. It will cause it to crap out on these 5r models. Especially the 5R44E with the gasket leak and servo wear. If the fluid has a burnt smell the trans needs a soft overhaul. No way around it. Fresh fluid will washout the burnt clutches. If the fluid is still red or light brown just dump a bottle of Lucas in and hope you can get another 50k out of it. Mine is a 5r55e and had a bottle dumped in at 90k in 2010. It's now 2021 and 130k miles. Fluid is still light brown and smells horrible. That Lucas saved it for 10 years. I'm still impressed. Got lucky and it softened up the gasket.
Can you dump the lucus in if it's already full?
No drain the same amount your going to put in
Thanks for that info. I wasn't aware that the two marks on the deepstick is the cold mark not hot. So tgat explains why my transmission is acting up. It's low on fluid.
You already know reading this comment.. Perfect timing lmao.... T-oil change in a few weeks, and I gotta get the drive shaft off to replace the front/rear main seal+cover(crusty) for a Dif leak. Missing the bearing press so I'll have to eventually buy one or rent one. All on a 04" Ranger XLT. It's been shifting pretty hard in park hard.
Thanks for the awesome video! I just wish it would have been up a couple of weeks back when I did my 01 ranger, but I believe I read your post on a forum and followed that guide to get the job done. Thanks again!
Follow the recommended time/mileage for the fluid change. I usually do my wife's vehicle every two years. So far so good.
I have to do it every 3 mouths...
Good time to put a drain plug in the trans pan.
Thanks for another great tech demonstration...
I'm still blown away by the fix I got away with on my F150 trans. valve body because of you...
Also, I found that a small, plastic cement mixing container from Home Depot works great for the mess of dropping a trans. pan.
Roudter yea those are mixing tubs really handy.
Great job very comprehensive especially for anyone that hasn't done this before.
This was very well presented, from a total novice I appreciate it. 🙏
A trash can lid drilled with holes makes a great fluid collector, extension to yo waist oil bucket, pot.
I was thinking blue kiddy pool
I had the flexplates breaking problem on the 1996 Ford Explorer Eddie Bauer Edition 4.0 liter V6 and once on a 2000 Ford Escort SE. The Ford Escort I heat tempered the flexplates for 450°f for a half an hour and then at 500°f for another half an hour. Then doubled converter seals up, added a steel spacer plate, and put lock washers and lock tight on the crank hub bolts that go through the flexplate. It never broke again or leaked. But the ignition switch or wiring in steering column or dash caught fire and burned the driver side dash and steering. I got $65 for the whole car.😟
I used to own 1996 Ford Explorer Eddie Bauer Edition. It kept snapping the flexplates, the last one I put myself and I bench pressed the transmission into place while my dad put some of the bell housing bolts cross brace in.😅It left me stranded near Navajo Arizona, I abandonded it and and gifted the keys, and title to a Guy named Darryl that works for a towing company located at Sanders Arizona. It went through five flexplates! It shifted fine I think it is just to weak of flexplates.
Thanks again Brian for another Ford DIY 💪🏿
I love your new intro btw
I can't get over the rust on some of those vehicles you have over there. I'm from Australia, we don't get the winters that you guys get.
In Oklahoma and Texas we don't either, the Chicago or any northern area just eats through cars.
Come to NY you will be lucky if the cars sold in your country last 2 years. If I remember correct you have a lot of smaller cars running the roads.
It's the 'salt's they spread everywhere shit eats everything
Great video! I appreciated noting common problems, too.
Appreciate you posting working on older model Fords. Hope you get some OBS F-150s in some day. :)
Anybody out there also change out the TCC, EPC and 4x shift solenoids while they had the pan down? Any recommendations or tricks for doing that job. I've scoured the internet forums and no one seems to discuss this in great detail.
Very good explanation of the steps to take. Thank you.
If I was doing this I would get a new pan with a drain plug. Doorman sells them .
Hey. I really like your Channel and been subscribed for a while now. You are one of those who like to give in depth information and instruction which is what I look for and appreciate.
Am curious if you have any stickers or ever plan to have any??
Exterior grade vinyl and happy to pay for them as I need TWO stickers for my little project I'm working on.
Keep up the great work and always happy to see content from you.
Alright, he got right to it! Great tutorial video.
That was excellent! Many thanks.
Excellent information !
Great content. Helps me immensely. SUBSCRIBED.
What do I have to do if coolant got into transmission?
One thing that is a constant in your videos is the corrosion under these vehicles. The frame on this one looked pretty suspect. Its too bad there isn't better coatings for the metals or the metals themselves a better alloy. Unfortunately all the crap that they put on the road is the cause. The vortex of sand, salt and de-icer whipping around under there at highway speed must be unreal.
Designed obsolescence as well. A Ranger is a 10 year vehicle by design. A Focus is a 5 year vehicle by design. Usually they go by price point. Chevy Cavalier 5 year vehicle. Car companies suck.
A bit of advice for the diy’r; put a small kiddie pool under the transmission pan. Or have a couple bags of oil dry on hand.
OH, the patina of midwestern rust. Nice video.
Thank you this helps tons
Another great video Brian. Keep em coming.
Awesome video and advise as always. Thumbs up!
Thanks for sharing this! Do you have one on valve body gasket replacements or dropping/replacing the valve body?
@19:50 why Mercon if manufacturer says different? Thanks for helping us Ford owners who won't give up on keeping them roadworthy--
I have an 2011 4x4 ranger, no shield for the trains. fail the first time at 50K miles, now at 182K miles, could this being because no shield on the trains?
any links to check the solenoids?
That is a Bad ass new intro.. nice!
What do you think about either putting a drain plug in the pan or buying a aftermarket pan with a drain plug? Recommended or just an opportunity for leaks?
Good idea, but you will still have to drop the pan to clean that big magnet and change filter from time to time..
@@DougMount No doubt. The drain plug would just be in the interest of avoiding the trans fluid waterfall when dropping the pan.
I done mine last weekend thanks for the video I scratched a line on the front of the pan to make it simpler putting it back together
Great Video... You taught me a lot. Thank you.
What happens if your pan leaks / seeps? Do you retorque? Torque slightly more? BtwI love your videos been repairing my fords for over 10 years.
Thanks for this Well detailed video, I appreciate it.
Your video is gonna save me a few hundos thanks
Excellent video and information
I wish I could do this on my Ford Flex. I hate how deep the filter is on the 6f50s.
I didn’t hear the torque wrench click at 89 in/lbs. was it tight enough?
Kellie Grase I didn’t either, he probably stopped so he wouldn’t brake the bolt.
at 89" lbs they barely make a noise but you can feel it.
So my only question is do you need to put gasket sealer on the gasket??? THANKS
no
So how do you identify the valve body seal if it's blown up?
Why don’t they put drain plugs on trans pans?
So you're more inclined to bring the car in for service. Now, when they removed the underhood dipstick, that made it even more impossible to do the job yourself.
I heard you should try to re-use the origional gasket if it's still on it and is in good shape, they say the replacement aftermarket gaskets are crap and leak.
yes
New intro WOW !!!! Thumbs up...
It’s all good but on the SOHC motor the y pipe is right under the pan. Some say they have to remove the pipe and or remove the front drive shaft
Doorman makes a pan with a built in drain plug for these, would you suggest that for ease of maintenance or just stick with the Ford pan?
Dorman's stuff are all crap..
Great details! Thanks
I have a question about my 2011 Ford Ranger Transmission. It was supposed have been replaced about 2 1/2 years ago and was working fine until last year when a problem started occurring. when leaving to go somewhere the transmission would go into drive fine, however after going a short distance of a few blocks and usually when coming to a stoplight, when I go to accelerate from the stop the transmission lose drive gear, after stopping and shifting into park, or reverse it eventually will engage again and go on shifting normally. A couple times it did continue to slip. However it typically would return to normal operation without further problems. I found the problem seemed to be less frequent during the hot Phoenix summer. I checked the fluid level and it was ok. I found more increasingly lately I would lose drive when entering the freeway during acceleration and have avoided driving on the freeway completely. The problem has became very frequent when leaving for the past few months but typically goes away after the initial loss of drive which will "Engage' after a few seconds or longer and no longer slip or act up and operate normally.
Today while driving close by after and during rain and cooler temps that Drive completely failed after stopping a couple places a block away and then refueling. Reverse also would not engage completely and slipped, but D1 and D2 worked ok and I did make it home. I tried several time to go and try it in Drive and Reverse, and drove around the mobile home park to see if things would return to normal, but it continues to slip badly. It did flash the O/D light during these tests which from my research indicated slippage after 3 attempts.
I tried adding additional fluid but the problem continued. Tonight I let it run idling in park for about 20 minutes. When I tried it again it seemed to work as normal without slippage, however I did not take it out on the street, only at slower speed around the park where it did shift from 1st to 2nd fine and had no apparent slippage. Last year I did remove the equivalent of a bottle of Lucus Transmission Treatment worth of transmission fluid drawn from the Dipstick Tube, and added the Lucus treatment hoping to resolve the issues, which did seem to help, but may have been due to operating at hotter temps during the summer.
Do you have any suggestions? Would a fluid & filter change be advised? I would guess I have about 30K miles on the "Replaced Transmission" and everything operated normal for over a year until the problems stated occurring. The fluid I removed looked good, not dark or contaminated. Do these symptoms indicate a problem with transmission electronic controls/computer module or shift solenoids? Any ideas or help would be greatly appreciated. I have tried finding videos on this ford automatic transmission with similar issues with no luck. It's odd that the transmission fails like this after just driving less than a block or a few blocks and stopping, not able to engage in drive when starting forward acceleration again, then within a few seconds or sometime after rolling to place to pull over then stopping, trying shifting to park, reverse etc.. then it will engage and operate normally with no slippage.
I just found today that D1& D2 worked when Drive and Reverse would slip badly with almost no engagement, just slight forward and backward movement respectively. I did not rev the motor excessively as to not do damage, or have a "Hard Engagement" and break something.
Make a drain plug !
I have a pan with a drain plug from for that trans. From Dorman. When I went to open it thought the whole bung twisted out :lol:. They powder coated the bolt threads. Lucky I kept my old one. They sent a replacement.
@@alb12345672 dorman stuff is crap..
@@Malossianoplus I still didn't learn my lesson. I bought a trans line (same trans) from Dorman. There was a wrong flare fitting. LUCKY I didn't take a tool to it. It is in a tough spot and you can't see. Two threads went it but I knew it wasn't right. Dorman sent me another line, then they sent me a Ford Tube.
There’s cross over exhaust pipe that goes under the pan blocking access to bolts on my 2003 Ranger 3.0 FFV. Any special techniques or tools for that issue?
Mystery for you. 02 Mountaineer 4.6 246k change filter and fluid front and read diff. 3rd change since on trans since 95k now when the truck is on a incline slope with the brake pedal depressed in 1st gear and when the fluid is below 120 degree in drive it looses gear and rolls back. Need to rev engine to about 1500 and it locks in. Didnt have the problem before fluid change. After the fluid is up to temp its ok.
Hey thanks big guy great video
What i don;t understand is why they don't put in a drain plug on Transmissions and now they don't have dipsticks
Frank Cancel they don’t want you to service them. That way they will fail sooner and when they do it’s more costly. That almost guarantees and new car will be bought instead of repaired.
@@FishFind3000 You're absolutely right about that.
I have a 2004 ford ranger 4 cylinders, how much transmission fluid do I need after a transmission service?
This was a great video on filter and fluid change but do you have a valve body and solenoid replacement video for ford Ranger ? Thx
Any idea why a 2000 ranger will not drop into passing gear? Otherwise shifts normally.
Hi, I've notice that there are two types of filters, one is entirely flat but the other has the spout or opening that protrudes, how do i know which one to use and what is the purpose for this?
Hey again-when I start my engine it just barely turns over and stops w a clunk. I think its the starter can you please tell me how difficult and expensive it is to replace starter in 01 Explorer Sport? Thank you-
Cheap and easy.
@@D.Jay. Cheap & easy is good.
Anyone have a link to the upgraded valve body and gasket??
What are those two bolts on the driver side next to the shifter linkage with the 3/8s plug on the bolt head?? Can i pull that out and use it to fill the transmission??
Thanks man much appreciated my 2007 U.S. E150 with 4.6 will rock n roll bevause if your expert advice!!!,😎😎😎🤗🤗
What's wrong with my 98 Ford explorer I change the strainer and and now it does not work right sometime to the pool sometimes it won't
Awesome 👍 Thanks
The 99 explorer is more involved to drop the pan. Unless Brian has any tips or tricks.
Everything on those early explorers were a nightmare.
Outstanding video sir! Question: how much does the torque converter hold and do i need to drain/change that as well?
Thanks keep up the great work!
The only problem I see is that aftermarket kit has a different bolt size, what happens down the road if you go back to the oem filter and don't have the right size bolt.
My renger 2008 when I pass 50 miles the OD starting BLINKING. On and off.
AWESOME video.. my only and i mean only warning, it they used an aftermarket filter in this video.. Id recommend goin to Ford and getting the Factory replacement! just my 40+ year exp tech advice to you... Fluid brand dont matter, but factory filter does
Absolutely
great video, its guys like you that make youtube great!!!!!!@@FordTechMakuloco
I sure hope my change is this simple lol
Love this channel
Would love to hear about the Ford 5.0 problems
I just did the change on my 97 Ford Ranger this weekend. Bought it 5 years ago with 108,000 miles now it has 191,000 miles. It was changed before I owned it and I never realized I needed to change it. So my question is how many pan drops should I do to have nice clean fluid? Truck shifts smooth
Every 30k is good
On my f150 I dropped the pan once and changed the rest of the fluid through the trans cooler line. Start the engine Let a qt bleed from the cooler line ( it happens quick having a helper is ideal) turn off engine then fill with a qt of new fluid through the dipstick. Repeat this process until the fluid coming out of the cooler line Looks clean
@@michaelhopfinger2911 That's exactly the way I change the transmission fluids on all my vehicles.
Show the drain collection bucket please
Thanks for the video
Thanks. What do you do if you put too much fluid in by mistake? I added 1/2 of a quart too much.
Pump the transmission fluid out of the dip stick. There are CZcams videos about it.
Great video ford tech
Why on earth don’t they make a way to drain the pan with a one bolt drain hole on the bottom.
Some people could get confused while doing an oil change
What brand are the impact swivl extensions you used in fram starting at 4:30
Vaughn Dibble snap on
Steel man
Great video. I purchased a super clean 2wd 2002 extended cab 3.0 ranger last year with 140k miles. I have no service history on the tranny, engine oil and filter was changed every 3k miles. Based on the color of the tranny fluid I would guess it was serviced once. I plan on doing it soon. My question is, I have heard if auto tranny's have not been serviced for long periods or never, and you service them, the new fluid can remove the varnish or buildup and cause slipping and therefore you should service it twice under these circumstances(like, fairly soon after the initial fluid change it should be serviced again). Is there any truth in that theory?
I have a 2002 ranger with code p0715 for the turbine speed sensor. I checked the ohm readings at the connector and it is good. Not sure when the fluid was changed last. Any chance a fluid change could solve the issue? That's something I could do before having to take to a trans shop?
What about the fluid in the torque converter ? Why you didn’t drain it also ?
I like the Intro.