I thought the idea of using featheredge board was to leave no visible nail heads which can also be an area for the ingress of water, and hence future rot.
Another amazing progress vid Des. I watch a lot of DIY vids on CZcams but yours is the most relaxing, nature documentary feeling vids out there! So peaceful to watch haha
Nice video. To get all the boards at the same angle, you cut the top off a board, the width of the overlap, and pin this to the bottom. This then kicks out the bottom board to the same degree as all the others. Another thing that effects the look, although subtle, there is s front and back to the boards. If you look carefully at the end of a board, one of the angles is 90 degrees and tbe other something like 80. Another tip, the nail, as you say shouldn't pierce the top of the underlying board but it should be close otherwise the board tends to cup inwards as the nailed board is unsupported at this point. If your doing a large area, your method for spacing will produce cumulative errors. Best to check dimensions either end and middle from bottom board or else you could run out an inch or so.
Hi there. Thanks for your very helpful tips. You've got a very keen eye my friend to notice a 10 degree difference in the angles of the boards. Lol! I don;t think many folk would notice that or fret about it to be honest but I agree it could certainly make a bigger more noticeable difference over a longer stretch. Best wishes and thanks for your contribution. Des
If you use an off cut before starting you can set out how the boards will end up at the top, instead of landing close with only a slither gap. I think in this instance you could either double up the OSB underneath the roof or cut any kind of thin timber and use it as a bead. Just looks nicer. But if in doubt FOAM 😂😂
Really good effort! When im cladding with featheredge i use a paslode 2nd fix finish nailer with 16 gauge nails. Gives a much better finish rather than having the heads of the nails on show. 🙂
Hi there. Nope. Would still put them on afterwards but this is just personal choice. If you're very careful and accurate with cutting the cladding though you could do it the other way. Stay safe and well, Des
21st Century Caveman Hi - just looking for help with corner detail. My shed is 2.4m (approx 8’) all sides. This is the length I can buy featheredge. To avoid cutting the cladding I’m trying to make sure my framing plates are correct size. How much edge did you leave to attach your 2x2 ends? Thanks!
Good question. You could but not a good idea mate. You need the gap between the two to allow the structure to breath and also for expansion and contraction of timbers.Main problem though is that you will get an an accumulation of moisture between the two and rot will set in. Put the battens on mate and save yourself having to re-do the lot in a few years time. Take care, des
Hi Des, I'm building one and am near this stage. I'm using currgated bitumen sheets to cover the three walls which are out of view and I'll be using featherboard cladding on the front. My question is, do I need to use battens even on the walls with the corrugated sheets - or can I screw the sheets directly onto the OSB? there will be planty of air flow due to the shape of the sheets... I will be using battens on the front wall of course. Looking forward to your response.
I am building a similar sort of cladding with the damp proof membrane however I’m not putting runners on for the cladding to sit on, it’s sitting directly on top of it, will this cause problems?
First problem is that you'll end up with hundreds of holes in your membrane, so any moisture that gets behind the cladding has an easy route through. Using battens also creates an airspace between cladding and membrane which enables ventilation and breathability within the walls. So definitely batten it first.
If you're insulating inside then I'd use batons. If you're cladding is expensive, I'd use batons. If it's a roof you NEED batons. If you're sticking cheap feather edge on I wouldn't worry too much - the membrane (assuming something like Tyvek housewrap) will close on the nails anyway so you won't get water coming in that way. The only issue is you create a small closed pocket between the wall and the cladding in which condensation can build up - also if your cladding is still wet when applied (normal), it won't easily dry out at the back. So you'll end up with trapped moisture in there (it will make its way out eventually in dry weather) but the cladding is treated so should be a long time before this is an issue.
I’m looking at battery only operated nail guns but still a bit pricey, I don’t think I will need one very often for my sort of work so don’t need the best , have you looked at them at all ? Thanks des
Hiya buddy. I've often thought about nail guns but that's about as far as it's ever got. I don't think I do enough of this sort of stuff to justify any extra expense so definitely not necessary for me and happy with what I've got. However, if you do this sort of thing for a living then it's definitely worth investigating further. Best wishes, Des
Hi, do you have a list of lumber and other items and QTY's you used to make this man cave. Can then use that to get a rough idea of current cost.Thanks
No, sorry I don't. During covid, prices increased astronomically. I haven't checked whether they've come down yet. Look at the Q&A sessions at the end. I'd increase my build price by @ 40-50% if I were you as a rough guide . ATB, Des
Hi 21st CC, really enjoyable video. I am building a garden shelter (basically and open ended shed on my decking) I wanted a rustic look, do you think it would be possible to use feather board for the roof (its a steep roof). Thank you
I don't see why not providing there's a reasonable overlap to prevent backflow/seepage of rain, etc. I love the rustic look and i personally think it's a great idea. . If you decide to proceed let me know how you get on. When you think about it they're basically just long shingles? Stay safe and well, Des
@@21stcenturycaveman33 Thanks Des, I really appreciate your advice, could i push to answer one more quick question?? Is it worth putting some protective sheeting across the roof beams first to waterproof or would this just prevent the featherboard from drying out after it rains? Thanks again!! (I have now subscribed!!)
@@alastairmackay9799 Sorry buddy - thought I'd answered this question already but clearly haven't - so sorry. Definitely - please do this. BUT, please use a breathable membrane and don't just stick a thick plastic waterproof sheet over the beams. The building needs to breathe my friend. Green light - you need to do this my friend. Apologies again for late response. Stay safe and well, Des
Once you had levelled and fixed the first board and used your jig to marke either end the position of the next board.....why did you need to use the level again? Surely with the jig it allows you to just tack on subsequent boards confident they're level...
Peter Hutton nothing wrong with double checking, but I agree the jig should negate the need for the level, if used exactly the same way every single time.
@@21stcenturycaveman33 TBH I never noticed a drop in quality, Des, but I watched with the picture un expanded. I hope you saw the comment. All is well here, ta.
Hi, been enjoying your vidéos and the Great advice they contain. Thinking if buying à nail gun for my cladding and looking for advice if I may? Framing nail guns like the milwaukee M18FFN look a bit like brutes. Are they too powerful and damaging to the wood for the job I want and should I look fir a Brad nailer instead like the M18FN16GA ? any advice gratefully received. Thank you
Hello my friend and thanks very much for your ongoing support. Unfortunately, I have no experience with nail guns and I'm therefore not qualified to give you advice on this matter. Really sorry buddy. Very best wishes, Des
Just started watching this and really gave me some good ideas , but I was wondering why is it necessary to baton and not just nail feather edge straight into the OSB
@@21stcenturycaveman33 Like the videos n all but it literally would have taken you the same amount of time or less to say it's to keep a breathing gap to allow the building to breath. 😁
Hi there and thanks for watching. I went for a 40mm overlap because the timber was damp and will definitely shrink when it dries out. You probably don;t need quite as much as this but I wanted to be on the safe side and the boards were nice and wide. ATB, Des
Hey, no probs. I deliberately left room for the 2 x 2's on the edges and the end of the runs as this is how I had decided to finish it off beforehand I'm glad I chose to do this as I think it looks great and very neat and tidy. Hope this helps. ATB, Des
Hi there. I'm not sure it makes a great deal of difference to be honest. If they're not galvanised then definitely yes. Do you have any ideas? Thanks, Des
You can hide the nails under the overlap, but then the lower part of the board can curl up leaving a gap - The right spot is just above the top edge of the underlying board - I've seen people mix - hide some nails under the overlap with others lower down to stop the curling, but tbh if your nails are neat it shouldn't matter. I'd definitely drill the holes for the nails in the cladding first either way to stop little splits developing.
Hindsight is a marvellous thing but would it have been easier to box in the eves under your overhang then butt your feather edge against it ? Would certainly have saved you a lot of time & intricate cut outs.
Hi there. I did consider boxing in the eves but decided to shape the f/e boards as I was thinking about putting some bird boxes up there and wanted further options. ATB, Des
Hello great video, doing my own shed currently and have followed your way with cladding battons and membrane but to save on cost i wasn't planning on having any internal wall coverage, so the membrane is visible from inside, is this ok or is it effective it's purpose ect am clueless can't seem to dind anyone who has left it like this so makes me think there's a reason
Hiya J . Interesting question. It is unusual to just see the membrane from the inside but its still better to have it than not. The membrane will effectively stop rain getting through and it will also provide a wind barrier to reduce breezes coming through the external timber. It will also play a small part in helping to keep it a little warmer inside. So whilst it may look a little unusual i still think its worth having. Also, lets not forget that it also gives you the option of lining your build in the future if you choose to do so. Hope this helps, Des
@@21stcenturycaveman33 Thank you for the reply, great I'll probably look to clad the inside down the lie but it's just not in budget atm. And already have all the materials My worry was weather having it exposed inside would impact the membrane purpose or quality. And tbh weather it had any unhealthy affect from what its made from. Thanks
I prefer seeing the nails as it makes it look more rustic. Also bear in mind that if you can't see the nails, they're probably too high and the thinner bottoms of the boards will probably curl. ATB, Des
I thought the idea of using featheredge board was to leave no visible nail heads which can also be an area for the ingress of water, and hence future rot.
Brilliant, great help, and used to build horizontal fence. Thank You
You're most welcome! Des
Another amazing progress vid Des. I watch a lot of DIY vids on CZcams but yours is the most relaxing, nature documentary feeling vids out there! So peaceful to watch haha
Marcus - thank you for your kind words of support. They are very motivational and inspire confidence. Thank you. ATB, Des
I've had limited access to CZcams for a while but have throughly enjoyed catching up on this series great work des
Thanks very much for taking the time out to watch these vids. I really appreciate your support. ATB, Des
Great Vid. I had to rent a nail gun - as my hands and arms were so sore. Great inspiration and relaxing video.
Thanks very much. ATB, Des
great video, cheers! just have to say that you have a very calm and soothing voice :)
Thank you kindly! Best wishes, Des
Great video ....thank you 👏
Glad you liked it! Des
those cladding finish the cave man nicely des looking forward to see the end product.
Cheers buddy. It was the 'look' I was after. Best wishes, Des
Nice video. To get all the boards at the same angle, you cut the top off a board, the width of the overlap, and pin this to the bottom. This then kicks out the bottom board to the same degree as all the others.
Another thing that effects the look, although subtle, there is s front and back to the boards. If you look carefully at the end of a board, one of the angles is 90 degrees and tbe other something like 80.
Another tip, the nail, as you say shouldn't pierce the top of the underlying board but it should be close otherwise the board tends to cup inwards as the nailed board is unsupported at this point. If your doing a large area, your method for spacing will produce cumulative errors. Best to check dimensions either end and middle from bottom board or else you could run out an inch or so.
Hi there. Thanks for your very helpful tips. You've got a very keen eye my friend to notice a 10 degree difference in the angles of the boards. Lol! I don;t think many folk would notice that or fret about it to be honest but I agree it could certainly make a bigger more noticeable difference over a longer stretch. Best wishes and thanks for your contribution. Des
Any sizeable gaps at the top I used expanding foam on my shed, then cut it back and caulked over it. Works a treat!
Was thinking exactly the same thing my friend. Take care, Des
If you use an off cut before starting you can set out how the boards will end up at the top, instead of landing close with only a slither gap. I think in this instance you could either double up the OSB underneath the roof or cut any kind of thin timber and use it as a bead. Just looks nicer. But if in doubt FOAM 😂😂
Good video cheers 👍
Thank you! Cheers! Des
Really good effort! When im cladding with featheredge i use a paslode 2nd fix finish nailer with 16 gauge nails. Gives a much better finish rather than having the heads of the nails on show. 🙂
What length should the 16 guage nails be
@@stuartalexander336 "about" 3/4's of the total depth.
Your not getting the spirit of this …most people quite rightly don’t have nail guns
Lol who cares
if you did it again would you put on your 2x2 end stops first? I have windows to go around too just figuring out the best way of doing things.
Hi there. Nope. Would still put them on afterwards but this is just personal choice. If you're very careful and accurate with cutting the cladding though you could do it the other way. Stay safe and well, Des
@@21stcenturycaveman33 ok thanks, it's a bit of a head scratcher figuring out how to weather in window frames etc
21st Century Caveman Hi - just looking for help with corner detail. My shed is 2.4m (approx 8’) all sides. This is the length I can buy featheredge. To avoid cutting the cladding I’m trying to make sure my framing plates are correct size. How much edge did you leave to attach your 2x2 ends? Thanks!
Hi why do you need batons on the outside. Can you put the cladding on house wrap?
Good question. You could but not a good idea mate. You need the gap between the two to allow the structure to breath and also for expansion and contraction of timbers.Main problem though is that you will get an an accumulation of moisture between the two and rot will set in. Put the battens on mate and save yourself having to re-do the lot in a few years time. Take care, des
Hi Des, I'm building one and am near this stage. I'm using currgated bitumen sheets to cover the three walls which are out of view and I'll be using featherboard cladding on the front. My question is, do I need to use battens even on the walls with the corrugated sheets - or can I screw the sheets directly onto the OSB? there will be planty of air flow due to the shape of the sheets...
I will be using battens on the front wall of course. Looking forward to your response.
Hiya Peter. No need for battens in my opinion buddy. As you say, plenty of air flow. Spot on. Best wishes, Des
@@21stcenturycaveman33 nice one, cheers mate. Keep the vids coming, they're ace
I am building a similar sort of cladding with the damp proof membrane however I’m not putting runners on for the cladding to sit on, it’s sitting directly on top of it, will this cause problems?
First problem is that you'll end up with hundreds of holes in your membrane, so any moisture that gets behind the cladding has an easy route through. Using battens also creates an airspace between cladding and membrane which enables ventilation and breathability within the walls. So definitely batten it first.
If you're insulating inside then I'd use batons. If you're cladding is expensive, I'd use batons. If it's a roof you NEED batons. If you're sticking cheap feather edge on I wouldn't worry too much - the membrane (assuming something like Tyvek housewrap) will close on the nails anyway so you won't get water coming in that way. The only issue is you create a small closed pocket between the wall and the cladding in which condensation can build up - also if your cladding is still wet when applied (normal), it won't easily dry out at the back. So you'll end up with trapped moisture in there (it will make its way out eventually in dry weather) but the cladding is treated so should be a long time before this is an issue.
Can please tell me how did you managed to put cladding on side of the shed there's hardly any space between the fence and the shed.
Well, it wasn't easy and I was probably a little thinner then. Since the lockdown I've put on about 1.5 - 2 stone! Best wishes, Des
@@21stcenturycaveman33 Thanks. I have started on mine. Today I did the flooring. You gave me lot of inspiration.
What size nails would you recommend to use to attach the feather edge please? Thanks
Hi there. I used 50mm and they worked great. Des
I’m looking at battery only operated nail guns but still a bit pricey, I don’t think I will need one very often for my sort of work so don’t need the best , have you looked at them at all ? Thanks des
Hiya buddy. I've often thought about nail guns but that's about as far as it's ever got. I don't think I do enough of this sort of stuff to justify any extra expense so definitely not necessary for me and happy with what I've got. However, if you do this sort of thing for a living then it's definitely worth investigating further. Best wishes, Des
Hi, do you have a list of lumber and other items and QTY's you used to make this man cave. Can then use that to get a rough idea of current cost.Thanks
No, sorry I don't. During covid, prices increased astronomically. I haven't checked whether they've come down yet. Look at the Q&A sessions at the end. I'd increase my build price by @ 40-50% if I were you as a rough guide . ATB, Des
what do you do about the corners where the feather-board meets each other? did you use some sort of trim
@Trubshaw Baby
You didn't watch all the video, did you? LOL!
Hi 21st CC, really enjoyable video. I am building a garden shelter (basically and open ended shed on my decking) I wanted a rustic look, do you think it would be possible to use feather board for the roof (its a steep roof). Thank you
I don't see why not providing there's a reasonable overlap to prevent backflow/seepage of rain, etc. I love the rustic look and i personally think it's a great idea. . If you decide to proceed let me know how you get on. When you think about it they're basically just long shingles? Stay safe and well, Des
@@21stcenturycaveman33 Thanks Des, I really appreciate your advice, could i push to answer one more quick question?? Is it worth putting some protective sheeting across the roof beams first to waterproof or would this just prevent the featherboard from drying out after it rains? Thanks again!! (I have now subscribed!!)
@@alastairmackay9799 Sorry buddy - thought I'd answered this question already but clearly haven't - so sorry. Definitely - please do this. BUT, please use a breathable membrane and don't just stick a thick plastic waterproof sheet over the beams. The building needs to breathe my friend. Green light - you need to do this my friend. Apologies again for late response. Stay safe and well, Des
@@21stcenturycaveman33 Absolutely no need to apologise, I really appreciate the advice. Right, time to give it a go!! Thanks again
Once you had levelled and fixed the first board and used your jig to marke either end the position of the next board.....why did you need to use the level again? Surely with the jig it allows you to just tack on subsequent boards confident they're level...
Peter Hutton nothing wrong with double checking, but I agree the jig should negate the need for the level, if used exactly the same way every single time.
Did you take the original vid off, Des? It is on my notifications, but the page is empty.
I did mate. For some reason (probably my incompetence) it didn't upload in HD Ade. Hence the re-upload. Hope all is well with you and yours mate. Des
@@21stcenturycaveman33 TBH I never noticed a drop in quality, Des, but I watched with the picture un expanded. I hope you saw the comment. All is well here, ta.
Hi, been enjoying your vidéos and the Great advice they contain.
Thinking if buying à nail gun for my cladding and looking for advice if I may?
Framing nail guns like the milwaukee M18FFN look a bit like brutes. Are they too powerful and damaging to the wood for the job I want and should I look fir a Brad nailer instead like the M18FN16GA ?
any advice gratefully received. Thank you
Hello my friend and thanks very much for your ongoing support. Unfortunately, I have no experience with nail guns and I'm therefore not qualified to give you advice on this matter. Really sorry buddy. Very best wishes, Des
@@21stcenturycaveman33 A honest answer is always welcome. Thank you
Did you put cladding at the back of the shed? Because I didn't see it.
Yes, of course. Why would I not bother after going to so much trouble?
@@21stcenturycaveman33 Thank you
Just started watching this and really gave me some good ideas , but I was wondering why is it necessary to baton and not just nail feather edge straight into the OSB
Hiya buddy. Great pertinent question but already addressed in the comments section below the vid mate. Stay safe and well, Des
@@21stcenturycaveman33 Like the videos n all but it literally would have taken you the same amount of time or less to say it's to keep a breathing gap to allow the building to breath. 😁
What overlap did you have on your boards please?
Hi there and thanks for watching. I went for a 40mm overlap because the timber was damp and will definitely shrink when it dries out. You probably don;t need quite as much as this but I wanted to be on the safe side and the boards were nice and wide. ATB, Des
Did you take your feather edge board to the cover it did you leave a gap so you could put your 2x2 on the corner? Thanks
Hey, no probs. I deliberately left room for the 2 x 2's on the edges and the end of the runs as this is how I had decided to finish it off beforehand I'm glad I chose to do this as I think it looks great and very neat and tidy. Hope this helps. ATB, Des
Thanks for your reply I’ve got 100mm feather edge what overlap would you recommend?
With feather edging isn't it wise to hide your nails with the overlap?
Hi there. I'm not sure it makes a great deal of difference to be honest. If they're not galvanised then definitely yes. Do you have any ideas? Thanks, Des
You can hide the nails under the overlap, but then the lower part of the board can curl up leaving a gap - The right spot is just above the top edge of the underlying board - I've seen people mix - hide some nails under the overlap with others lower down to stop the curling, but tbh if your nails are neat it shouldn't matter.
I'd definitely drill the holes for the nails in the cladding first either way to stop little splits developing.
Kind of ruins the look when nails are not hidden or lined up
Hindsight is a marvellous thing but would it have been easier to box in the eves under your overhang then butt your feather edge against it ? Would certainly have saved you a lot of time & intricate cut outs.
Hi there. I did consider boxing in the eves but decided to shape the f/e boards as I was thinking about putting some bird boxes up there and wanted further options. ATB, Des
@@21stcenturycaveman33 bird boxes is a great idea
My ocd couldn’t cope with the inconsistency in nail placement 😂
mozer30 Didn’t bother my ultimate ocd because totally perfectly staggered every other nail.....
What governs the overlap??
Hi there. The width of the board and whether they're dry or wet (shrinkage issue). The overlap in the vid is what I'd use. ATB, Des
Hello great video, doing my own shed currently and have followed your way with cladding battons and membrane but to save on cost i wasn't planning on having any internal wall coverage, so the membrane is visible from inside, is this ok or is it effective it's purpose ect am clueless can't seem to dind anyone who has left it like this so makes me think there's a reason
Hiya J . Interesting question. It is unusual to just see the membrane from the inside but its still better to have it than not. The membrane will effectively stop rain getting through and it will also provide a wind barrier to reduce breezes coming through the external timber. It will also play a small part in helping to keep it a little warmer inside. So whilst it may look a little unusual i still think its worth having. Also, lets not forget that it also gives you the option of lining your build in the future if you choose to do so. Hope this helps, Des
@@21stcenturycaveman33
Thank you for the reply, great I'll probably look to clad the inside down the lie but it's just not in budget atm. And already have all the materials My worry was weather having it exposed inside would impact the membrane purpose or quality. And tbh weather it had any unhealthy affect from what its made from. Thanks
Dont worry about it being exposed inside buddy. It'll be absolutely fine and will not suffer any detriment whatsoever. Take care, Des
Clouts will split boards close to the edge.....i would have drilled them first.
No, this would take forever. Just tap the sharp end with a hammer top blunt the nail before banging it in. The wood will not split. Des
Nice Vid ,could i be rude and ask total cost
Hi there. Of course. Plse see Q&A vids at end of series. Thanks, Des
@@21stcenturycaveman33 Thanks :jumped the gun .
You should hide the nails.
Would look so much better hiding the nails.
I prefer seeing the nails as it makes it look more rustic. Also bear in mind that if you can't see the nails, they're probably too high and the thinner bottoms of the boards will probably curl. ATB, Des
Those nails really spoil the look of the cladding. Had you nailed each one higher up, the board above would have covered it...
Zzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzz
Is this a "how not to video",,?? 🤣🤣,
wery slow my friend, very slow all !!
Slow but relaxing and therapeutic buddy. No need to rush at all. Stay safe and well, Des
You should be using imperial measurements.
Why?
Why you clown?