Honda 2.4L V-TEC Part 3: Oil Pan (a few shortcut...)
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- čas přidán 21. 08. 2024
- Second time doing a oil Pan replacement on a Honda Element with the 2.4L V-TEC engine. I learned a few shortcut to make the job easier.
Link: Full version oil pan removal part 1
• Honda 2.4 Liter V-TEC ...
Full version oil pan installation part 2
• Honda 2.4 L V-TEC Engi...
Parts:
FEL-PRO OS 30746 Oil Pan Gasket Set amzn.to/3DAuBeE
Dorman 264-410 Oil Pan, Black. amzn.to/3FFXjwr
(monetized links...thank you for your support)
Thanks for sharing your video! I am going to need to do my gasket after a failed rear U-Joint on my driveshaft caused a bad vibration (broke the hondabond free, and loosened the oil pan). You helped me quite a bit. There aren't too many videos of a K series engine.
Good luck with your project, good to know the videos are helpful
Great Video, short, concise, well described and clear video clip and a great time saver.
Thank you Charles Neil
Thanks for the information. I found it very useful for a 2003 Honda Civic Si with a similar problem.
Thank you for the feedback…Enjoy your project
some people hate the gasket for some reason. I just bought a fel-pro gasket as well. I didn't know for sure what involved removing it and I just learned that it takes a bit of time lol
I did it twice on 2 different Honda Element and both gasket are holding up really well... good luck with your project
very useful videos. I am going to have to tackle this job pretty soon. Good to see what's involved.
Thank you for your feedback, good luck with your project
thank you brother
Did you use any Hondabond with that gasket?
Much better! This is very do-able for people to do at home. Thank you for the updated video. We learn from experiences and knowledge from others. Good job and thank you for educating me on this process.
My 2004 Cr-V with 230K miles just started leaking through the rusty oil pan, it's weeping through. I just ordered the same pan and gasket as you used
Hi, I did not used any HondaBond, just torque the pan as per video...cheers
This way works great. Thanks for sharing it.
The bolts came out hard even with pb blaster, heat and an impact (actually 2 - electric and pneumatic.) A little patience and time also helped.
How are the gaskets working?
Bought the gasket because I thought it would be easier but I do not want to do this again.
Hi, I did it twice on two different Honda Element and the gasket did the job perfectly on both car…thanks for your comment
Cheers
Thank you for the quick response.
The gasket looks easier and just as good.
Hey! Based on my research, the schematics I’m viewing make it seem like there are different types of oil pan bolts (to mount the pan to the engine) are they all the same or different ? Do you happen to have a link to the bolts necessary? This is the last piece I need before tackling, thanks for the videos. Super helpful!
Thank you…There is 2 studs and nut bolts ( maybe 4 I dont remember) anyhow the studs should stay in place when you remove the nut bolts. If you need to replace them they can easily be found in any auto parts store (metric size). Or check out the link for specs
www.hondapartsnow.com/parts-list/2008-honda-element--5dr_lx_4wd-ka_5mt/engine/cylinder_block_oil_pan.html
Thanks so much for posting these videos! I have an ‘08 Element as well, mine has 390K miles and runs strong. How long did it take you on the second try? Are the front and rear mounts a pain to remove? And would using ramps on the front wheels make it way easier? Thanks again
Thanks for your feedback, the job is easier than it look if you have a little mechanical experience. To make the job easier Presoak with penetring oil all the bolts overnight, you need jack stands, ramps would get in the way...good luck with your project
390k? Wow good job getting it that far
So I finally did this job yesterday. It wasn’t too bad at all thanks to your video. After doing some research I found torque specs for a few of the bolts that might help other people- the 4 subframe bolts = 76 lb/ft. 3 rear mount bolts = 43 lb/ft. Front motor mount bolt = 47 lb/ft. I changed my front motor mount as it was cracked too.
Bad ass man it die the job thanx man
1:59 Thanks for watching. Keep your... err wrong channel
OK I did this, and I’m wondering what I could’ve broke. I had no code prior after one trip the next day check engine light came on reading
P2647
Control unit:09
Status: Confirmed
Rocker arm actuator A, bank 1 - actuator stuck on VTEC Oil Pressure Switch Circuit High Voltage
The VTEC solenoid is only a year old, I will replace it tonight and put in a new one but I’m concerned that I’ve done irreparable damage. Any thoughts? What could I have broke?
Is the engine run good?
Just a guess: your oil pan repair also change the internal oil pressure, maybe just erase the code for now.
If it come back, check the wiring and sensors near the oil pan, where you had your jack…etc
Hi, it’s been a few years. I wonder if you can give me an update on how the gasket is doing ?
Hi
Its been a few years since I sold both car, at that time they were no issues with the oil leaking from the repair.
If my current Honda needed a new oil pan gasket I would not hesitate to use that gasket again.
Hope this help
Cheers
Did you completely remove the rear mount bolt or just loosened it ? When I started to loosen it it was really hard to loosen so I stopped. Do I have the jack that is holding the engine too high that it's putting a strain on the motor mount bolt? How much tension should the Jack holding the engine have on it? Thanks
Hi, the powertrain just needs a jack to stabilize it (the other motor mounts from the top are holding it too )
For the tough bolts, apply heat and penetrating oil as required, do you used a impact wrench? The bolts in the are loose enough to lower the subframe until you have enough room for the oil pan
@@JoeBakerOutsideTheBox so you did take out the rear motor mount bolt? I'm only having trouble with the rear motor mount bolt. I got it loose but it's not as easy to unbolt as the front motor mount was. Was the rear motor mount as easy to unbolt as it was for the front? Thanks
Yes those two bolts give me lots of trouble, specially the one hidden deep in the frame (on both of my Element). Use penetratiing oil to wash out the dirt and rust,
I dropped the bolt's on corners I did( front mount rear mount on top with the brackets) side bolt's as well on frame but it won't come down am I missing something?
Its hard to tell witout seeing it. It should come down on is own when all the bolts are removed. The rear mount has 3 bolts, one of them is hiding in the frame.
I bought mines with a crack on the oil pan, got the parts yerterday, did you applied hondabond to the gasket? witch side? Thanks!
I did not applied anything, The gasket by itself properly torqued is fine
@@JoeBakerOutsideTheBox THANKS!
This is a flat rubber gasket. It fits like the rubber gasket on a oil filter does. It does not use Honda Bond. If you would look at the service manual instruction diagram online next time. They didn't have Honda Bond in the 90s. Grey Permatex silicone sealant is what Honda Bond is. Permatex is American, and Honda Bond is a Japanese brand.
How long is this job doing it this way?
It took me around 3 hours
What did you Torque the oil pan bolts to
Tighten the nuts/bolts in two or three steps, in the final step all bolt in sequence like the video to 8.7 lbf-ft
Why are you doing it for a second time, Doman a good brand ?
Different cars, The first one was a 2008 this time a 2004. Both Honda Element. And yes Dorman seem of good quality
doorman is good for things like this but do not use them when it comes to sensors, any type of sensor.
@@scientist100 i would have to agree.
I bought a doorman speed for my toyota sienna minivan and it wouldn't clear the fault after putting everything back together.(a ton of work to get to the back sensor behind the motor)
After the fault continued to show up on my scanner I thought it may of been a bad batch and decided to get another one. (brand new doorman)
Same problem so I went to go buy a cheaper brand to test out my theory which was 100% correct.
Doorman sensors sucks.