DIY Pinball Table (Multiplayer)
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- čas přidán 29. 08. 2024
- A modular pinball machine that can be played multiplayer up to 6 people. This was homemade in our workshop that we are still continuing to fill with machines and tools for our future projects.
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For a compression bit to be effective, you have to cut through the plywood in one pass. I've found 1/8" cheap bits on Amazon that work GREAT. I cut through 1/2" plywood in one pass easily, and sometimes 3/4" plywood too, but if you cut through 3/4" plywood in 2 passes, that works too.
Thank you for the great tip. What spindle and feed speeds do you recommend when using 1/8 bit trough 1/2 inch sheet in one pass?
Raddist pinball table I've ever seen. EVER! Really surprising to see how great that shed plywood looks in the end.
And, awesome to see your shop-made tools helping you make projects, really love it.
Also, glad you got to a solution with your straight bit. I think the compression endmill wasn't working for you because the upcut portion wasn't sufficiently deep on the first (or subsequent) passes. You really have to get the downcut portion into the cut. I can't tell what size they are, but they look around 6mm or so taking four stepdowns. Your cnc can easily do those parts in two stepdowns with a mill that large, probably even one pass.
When I'm cutting parts out of plywood, i use 1/8" endmills (about 3mm). With those, I'm certain you could cut your part in a single pass. With a 2flute mill running full RPMs on that makita, 25mm/s would be enough to give it a long life (but I'm sure you can go faster). The biggest reason we burn our tools up is not running them hard enough. It's counterintuitive, but if you aren't making big enough cuts, the tool isn't shearing wood on every turn and is rubbing against the wood instead, heating up.
A 175oz stepper on a 1616 ballscrew can push in the neighborhood of 90 pounds (almost 400N). Even if you deduct half for friction and going fast, that's LOT of force from a single stepper, much more than you would apply if you were cutting by hand with the same router and tool...and you would certainly do THAT in one pass.
That machine is expensive, make it WORK and earn its keep!
Good luck and thanks for the awesome project and video.
Thank you. Glad to hear you enjoyed this project and the video.
Also, thank you for recommending trying the "no support tabs" approach. It made the whole process more efficient.
We used a 3 mm (1/8 inch) bit to cut all of the components and the sheets were around 7 mm in thickness. So two passes per outline seemed to be a reasonable choice (probably could have done one pass. Will have to test it out sometime)
When it comes to the compression bit - we came to the same conclusion - the material was too thin for the approach to work. My guess is that the Up-Cut / Down-Cut ratio should be around 1/3 in order to have enough shavings in the cutting groove to hold components in place without using the tabs.
You make a good point about the feeds and speed calculations. We usually try to make the machine move as fast as it can, however, since we used old plywood that had grains full of dirt and dust, the weakest link was the router bit.
When doing the test cuts off the camera, we broke two bits by running them too fast (the feed speed was too high)
So we ended up doing the cuts at 32000 RPM and 10000 mmPM (the max speed according to chip load calculations)
Again, thank you, Tony, for all the great advice. It's much appreciated.
@@Aribabox i see. I thought the plywood sheets were thicker. I bet you could cut them in one pass, then. Maybe not as fast, but as long as you stay above the rubbing threshold, it should be ok. I think i have some 1/4 inch plywood, maybe I'll video some cuts so you can see how it compares to what you're working with. Worst case it doesn't and you move on with the solution you've got. Sounds like it's already an improvement at least.
Side note, the wife wants some of these pinball machines to grab attention at our shows, so I just ordered the file with with 2 player extension. Waiting in her to decide if we have enough room for 3 or 4. You've done a lot of work there since my last visit. Really cool projects! I'll work on convincing her we need the tabletop foosball as well. Thanks!
@@Aribabox I would say 32000 rpms is WAY too fast, and is generating excessive heat, contributing to dulling the bit prematurely.
Awesome. I had the exact same idea for a 2p one with positionable defensive pieces. Glad to see someone is actually making their ideas come to life.
Realy cool. And again Great ideas in your work. Lol 5 and 6 player. So great
Glad you like them!
I would like to see you design a CNC kit ?
5 and 6 ?!?!?!?
you didn't include flippers in the files, can you at least give the measurements please?
There should be a separate file in each file folder for flippers. (15 mm sheet in the "metric" folder and 0.625-inch sheet in the "imperial" folder)
Please email us your order number, and we will be happy to resend you all the necessary files to build the pinball table.
Hey i finally got around to uploading that video. I'm sure you're happy with the straight bits and they seem to be doing well for you, but those others shouldn't be breaking.
czcams.com/video/t_9GlLPpwQY/video.html
Also, don't know why I didn't mention it before, but I was just cutting some 5mm MDF and all the dust flew out of the cut so I'm switching to a downcut endmill. It will also pack the kerf, but the finish on the bottom side will look about the same as the top side with an upcut endmill.
Thank you for the video. Yes, the compression bits breaking was confusing, and I'm still not entirely sure what was the cause of that. But the straight flute ones worked fantastc.