I wondered if the tenon was on the end of the weight bearing side of bed, which would be better: vertical or horizontal wedge (tusk)? Also, would a dowel as wedge be less stable or less strong than the tusk?
Best tusk video! Step by step hand and power tool processes. Especially the measure and marking detail. We don't usually get that yet it is so important.
I love how even on demonstration pieces you leave no room for error down to the point where you take an extra ½° for the perfect fit. It just shows how good of a teacher you are and the standards you maintain.
Very interesting to see how you do it, I've always made my tusk tenons this way, except I make the wedge first and then trasfer it onto the tenon... Really interesting to see how you went about making yours, thanks for sharing 😊
Thank-you for sharing this video Rob and Crew🙌👏🤘✌ This video has been absolutely incredible as always. Haha, keep up the incredible work😀 Can't wait for the Live show tomorrow! Anybody reading this please join in the fun🤘🙌😀 Great times, informative, and if you are able, there is a way to greatly help those who can use it❤ Thank-you again for everything guys/gals of Shop Cosman🙌✌🙌
Great tutorial. With all the research never seen the horizontal wedge. I’m now inspired to move forward with my tusk tenon on a cedar bed for my grandson.
In building my workbench I followed Rob's construction of his own bench. This included the tusk tenon. It's been something around 6 years, and it's still rock solid. Thanks Rob.
When I made my bed frame a few years back, I had no idea about methods or planning joinery. Still don’t really. But, in second try I’m learning by watching first, then practice joinery on scraps. Someone asked me why not just buy. Of course my answer: Girl just likes the fun!
I was watching another one of your videos last night and noticed the 'different' tusked tenon and wondered about it. I used one on my bench to join the stretchers to the legs, but in the traditional vertical down way and thought that this/your way would have been easier to cut and maybe even stronger, then in looking through I found this, thanks.
Fencing contractor, I loved doing massive cedar gateways where the gates and structures could be disassembled for maintenance or repair, utilizing joinery like this. I loved hiding unessential handwork on components that take the most wear, knowing they will only be seen many years from now during a repair.
Firstly, it's not a Tusk tenon, it's a wedged through tenon. A Tusk is a bare faced tenon usually with the face down carrying a vertical load say in heavy timber framing. Horizontal wedges work fine but it's usually better to use two to apply pressure at the ends of the shoulder if you want maximum stability. To avoid splitting of the tenon it's advisable to make it as long as reasonably possible. At least three inches past the wedge. Especially if it's a softwood. The problem with Horizontal wedges is shrinkage in low humidity. They will loosen. A vertical wedge will drop under gravity and avoid a dangerously loose condition that you won't notice until you damage the joint under a shock load. Never shoulder the tenon across its width if you don't have to. The wider it is, the stronger and more stable. Even better if you shoulder two edges a nominal amount and leave the tenon thicker. The wider the wedge, the more it will shrink. The steeper the wedge angle the more it will pop loose. Wide wedges do not apply as much pressure unless you drive them in very hard. Narrow wedges crush slightly and grab the end grain of the tenon better. This is traditional practice, not just my opinion.
The video was great. I am making a bench for my porch that I want to put away for the winter. Now I have a way to disassemble the bench for flat storage. Great timing on this video.
I imagine the reason for having the wedge go vertical (through the tenon the long way) is related to the amount of extra wood you need in the tenon for strength. Going the long way, you'd have to shear off a lot of wood when driving in the wedge for it to fail. The way you did it, you need to make the tenon a *little bit* longer to give it strength. Like you said, that's probably worth it for the ease of making it. Also, a vertical wedge maybe just "feels like" it won't loosen up and fall out. Probably nothing to worry about but maybe that's part of why people do it.
I've made the vertical tusk for tables with thicker stock,I like the look of the vertical one, never tried the orizontal one, but this video has inspired a new project maybe:). I've been watching your videos for a long time now, thank you for all the great lessons.
Thanks Rob. Just because you don't see the advantages to a vertical tusk and mortise doesn't mean there is a reason. It means inspite of your training, experience, and skills: you remain ignorant. What we don't know is more important then what we do know. Once you know the reason, then you can justifiably dismiss it or defend it. For now you're stuck with, "I don't really know, but it's worked for me: so far. Thanks for sharing, God bless.
Thanks Rob and the team for taking the time and going to the effort to put this and all the other videos together. They are extremely high quality in terms of not just the content (which is the best out there IMO), but also the technical aspects of the video, sound, lighting and editing. Inspirational stuff!
Rob, I'm glad I watched this video for several reasons. First off I discovered that I'd been using my wheel marking gauge(cheap knockoff) wrong. The bevel and I had the wheel slightly loose so it could roll. Matching bevels cut on the tendon and wedge. I was shown to take the piece you cut off the wedge and glue it in the mortise to create the angle and use a wire brad to secure it in place. Of coarse this was all farm tables that were never coming apart. Far as I know they are still in the barn from decades ago! One thing that I've noticed is that you only use a guide block for cutting and cleaning up angle cuts with a chisel. Would you do a short video on a comparison(pros/cons) between eastern(Japanese) and Western ways of using chisels? The Japanese always use a guide block as well as wetting the joint for cleaning up joints, even 90° ones. We don't! Why is that? I enjoy your videos and learn lots from them. Thanks you for them and what you do for vets!
I'm about to build my own work table for a bakery I am starting to save money and these joints will come in really handy especially for when I need to move it. I'd like to ask a question if I can. Is it a forgiving joint for a newbie to build?
Nice ... some great techniques for measurement, layout and final fitting! Nice touch with the knob for whacking on the business end. The wedge in your example at the start seemed to have a more substantial surface for hammering in the removal direction, as compared to the demonstration wedge, which ended up somewhere between 1/4" and 3/16" ... might not something that thin be prone to 'frayed ends'? Cheers! Farmer John, Ontario, Canada ... P.S. ... can you perhaps mention PHP class availability on your Saturday live session? This year or next for me if space and Covid permit!
Excellent video. Thanks for sharing. The tenon fits snug in the mortise so if this was done in January would it come apart in August? Shouldn’t it be fit like a drawer to allow for expansion?
If the big tenon shrinks, I think that's ok because the shoulders still get pulled tight against the leg. If you mean the wedge, if that shrinks in the dry seasons, it just goes further into the mortise. On the other hand if he did this in a dry season it might not go in with more humidity, so that's a thing to look out for.
Horizontal wedges work OK but are not as rigid as a vertical wedge. They can and will work loose over time whereas gravity tends to drop the vertical wedge down if the timber gets dry and loosens the pressure of the wedge. The choice of timber for the wedge makes a big difference to its function. You want a timber that is tough and resists compression. Traditionally Apple is one of the best, for the same reason it makes the best mallet heads. Never make the wedge angle more than three degrees. The shallower the angle, the more powerful the lock. Steep wedges pop loose. Make the through tenon as long as you can without it looking ungainly and your stretcher as wide as you can for maximum stability. Those are the basic rules. The best wedge style to copy is like those you see on wooden moulding planes. It's practical and decorative. The very best wedge timber is crab apple. Tough and resistant to splitting and chipping. Japanese white oak is an excellent choice too.
Would you mind helping me with this question?: Is it true that there should be a gap between the wedge and the 90° degrees side of the side of the mortise where that wedge sits, in the "tusked mortise and tenon joint"? Or it does not really matter if the mortise where the wedge sits is the same side than the wedge?
@@joschmoyo4532 Whose tradition, what people, what time? In Greece the tradition is olive wood. What one does not know is more important than what they do know. Good day. God bless.
@@flashwashington2735 Ah yes. If your lucky enough to have access to Olive wood, which happens to be one of my absolute favourite timbers, it's a perfect choice. It's dense, tough, water resistant and has low shrinkage. The King of timbers, as used by Odysseus himself as his threshhold and bed. Perfect for knife handles, cutting boards, keyplates and the very finest marquetry inlays.
Could this be effective with plywood? After watching your video I am wondering if the Cosman workbench could be assembled this way? I haven’t made the bench yet but planning to start the build soon.
Hey Rob, hope your ok. This one seemed a bit rushed to be honest. I do admire your work and teaching skills. But this one seems off the mark. I watched it to see the master tips on a tusk tennon. Assumptions were: know how to make a mortise, how to make a tennon. What I found missing was how to make it good. It was alluded to but not made obvious. The importance of a loose fit, how the tusk works (angle, width, length) I do enjoy your faffing around but it’s hard to glean the true necessity of what you are doing. Again, with greatest respect for your skills. Someone in your teaching demographic.
"Ok, I am going to make this measurement very precise because.... mumble, mumble, mumble..." (Not a real quote, but an example) It seems that in every video, when you are concentrating hard (and seemingly when we need to know exactly why and what you are doing), you drift off into unintelligible mumbling. Have a look at @26:00 to 26:30 for a prime example, although these moments are scattered throughout the video. I mean this as constructive criticism, not a cheap shot.
So after all that time using thousands of dollars of equipment you have a nice joint...but how bout making it so Harry homeowner can make one using his hand tools...keep it real remember not everyone has your equipment...mr.Doright... remember your roots...😔
I look at it this way, if you plan to explore woodworking as a hobby/life passion, you have to invest in some basic tools or join a club. Table saw, jointer are must haves. The hollow chisel I used was $300 ish, not “thousands” of dollars!
When he brought out the second huge gauche i knew this was not worth it. Why in hell would you take this much time and equipment to make this tyoe of joint. Seems like mastrubation to me. Definetly 0 points in intuition.
Hey Jan, do you realize thousands of people read these comments? It would be a good idea to think first, wait a bit, read your comment again (before posting) and then decide if it makes you look foolish. You still have the option of removing it.
if you like this you will love how to make a wedged mortise and tenon: czcams.com/video/VE11nB4pnhM/video.html
L
I wondered if the tenon was on the end of the weight bearing side of bed, which would be better: vertical or horizontal wedge (tusk)? Also, would a dowel as wedge be less stable or less strong than the tusk?
Best tusk video! Step by step hand and power tool processes. Especially the measure and marking detail. We don't usually get that yet it is so important.
I love how even on demonstration pieces you leave no room for error down to the point where you take an extra ½° for the perfect fit. It just shows how good of a teacher you are and the standards you maintain.
Thnaks....you can do it too
Very interesting to see how you do it, I've always made my tusk tenons this way, except I make the wedge first and then trasfer it onto the tenon... Really interesting to see how you went about making yours, thanks for sharing 😊
Disassemble-able furniture is the future! Please make more! 🤩
Thanks, Rob!
This is by far the best tusk tenon video I’ve seen
Definitely makes more sense to have the tusk going laterally like that, Rob. Thanks for putting this out here for us.
Thank-you for sharing this video Rob and Crew🙌👏🤘✌
This video has been absolutely incredible as always. Haha, keep up the incredible work😀
Can't wait for the Live show tomorrow! Anybody reading this please join in the fun🤘🙌😀 Great times, informative, and if you are able, there is a way to greatly help those who can use it❤
Thank-you again for everything guys/gals of Shop Cosman🙌✌🙌
Great tutorial. With all the research never seen the horizontal wedge. I’m now inspired to move forward with my tusk tenon on a cedar bed for my grandson.
I plan on trying this joint out on a project I’m working. I’m glad I found this video!
Enjoy watching you use the table saw as a precision instrument, great skill you have.
In building my workbench I followed Rob's construction of his own bench. This included the tusk tenon. It's been something around 6 years, and it's still rock solid. Thanks Rob.
I just know that this is going to come in handy sometime soon...
Thanks Rob!
I. Bet it will
I've wondered why yours were sideways instead of vertical. SO simple, and for us still learning the hand tool methods, I really loved this one!
I think sideways is stronger
When I made my bed frame a few years back, I had no idea about methods or planning joinery. Still don’t really. But, in second try I’m learning by watching first, then practice joinery on scraps. Someone asked me why not just buy. Of course my answer: Girl just likes the fun!
I was watching another one of your videos last night and noticed the 'different' tusked tenon and wondered about it. I used one on my bench to join the stretchers to the legs, but in the traditional vertical down way and thought that this/your way would have been easier to cut and maybe even stronger, then in looking through I found this, thanks.
Fencing contractor, I loved doing massive cedar gateways where the gates and structures could be disassembled for maintenance or repair, utilizing joinery like this. I loved hiding unessential handwork on components that take the most wear, knowing they will only be seen many years from now during a repair.
Fantastic tutorial~!! I've always liked the look of this technique. Thanks for the inside scoop on making it~!
You are so welcome!
Thanks you for this one, realy like the mix of traditional and mechanical tools mix to achieve the end result👍🏻 learned a lot
Glad you enjoyed it!
Firstly, it's not a Tusk tenon, it's a wedged through tenon. A Tusk is a bare faced tenon usually with the face down carrying a vertical load say in heavy timber framing.
Horizontal wedges work fine but it's usually better to use two to apply pressure at the ends of the shoulder if you want maximum stability.
To avoid splitting of the tenon it's advisable to make it as long as reasonably possible. At least three inches past the wedge. Especially if it's a softwood. The problem with Horizontal wedges is shrinkage in low humidity. They will loosen. A vertical wedge will drop under gravity and avoid a dangerously loose condition that you won't notice until you damage the joint under a shock load.
Never shoulder the tenon across its width if you don't have to. The wider it is, the stronger and more stable.
Even better if you shoulder two edges a nominal amount and leave the tenon thicker.
The wider the wedge, the more it will shrink. The steeper the wedge angle the more it will pop loose. Wide wedges do not apply as much pressure unless you drive them in very hard. Narrow wedges crush slightly and grab the end grain of the tenon better. This is traditional practice, not just my opinion.
The video was great. I am making a bench for my porch that I want to put away for the winter. Now I have a way to disassemble the bench for flat storage. Great timing on this video.
this is a perfect joint for that application
That lovely grain of that maple on apron/frame of your table
I'm continually impressed by your talent, your tools, and your technique's. You make me want to become a better woodworker.
Thank you!!
I imagine the reason for having the wedge go vertical (through the tenon the long way) is related to the amount of extra wood you need in the tenon for strength. Going the long way, you'd have to shear off a lot of wood when driving in the wedge for it to fail. The way you did it, you need to make the tenon a *little bit* longer to give it strength. Like you said, that's probably worth it for the ease of making it.
Also, a vertical wedge maybe just "feels like" it won't loosen up and fall out. Probably nothing to worry about but maybe that's part of why people do it.
I've made the vertical tusk for tables with thicker stock,I like the look of the vertical one, never tried the orizontal one, but this video has inspired a new project maybe:). I've been watching your videos for a long time now, thank you for all the great lessons.
Thanks Rob. Just because you don't see the advantages to a vertical tusk and mortise doesn't mean there is a reason. It means inspite of your training, experience, and skills: you remain ignorant. What we don't know is more important then what we do know. Once you know the reason, then you can justifiably dismiss it or defend it. For now you're stuck with, "I don't really know, but it's worked for me: so far. Thanks for sharing, God bless.
Videography is excellent.
Thanks Rob and the team for taking the time and going to the effort to put this and all the other videos together. They are extremely high quality in terms of not just the content (which is the best out there IMO), but also the technical aspects of the video, sound, lighting and editing. Inspirational stuff!
Thanks for sharing those tips and the make, sure experience.
Thanks for watching!
Paying mind, tip: larger tenon (less shoulder) gives greater strength. And, slight angle to narrow wedge, easy in and later makes it easy tap out
Thanks for all the inspiration you have given me to take my craft to the next level.
Thanks for watching and commenting
Love your work. Super detailed and amazing craftsmanship
Looks great 👍. ..woodworking = happy dayz
Beautiful joint
It's like watching Michelangelo as an expert wood craftsman
Thanks for sharing Rob. As always very good. You seemed a little bit preoccupied. Hope everything is okay. 👍
Awesome...thanks Rob!
loved this video
Thank you for the video!
Masterful stuff.
I love this!
Very clear and instructive video Rob. It would have been even nicer if you had made the wedge entirely with hand tools.
Thanks! Great video!!
Rob, I'm glad I watched this video for several reasons. First off I discovered that I'd been using my wheel marking gauge(cheap knockoff) wrong. The bevel and I had the wheel slightly loose so it could roll. Matching bevels cut on the tendon and wedge. I was shown to take the piece you cut off the wedge and glue it in the mortise to create the angle and use a wire brad to secure it in place. Of coarse this was all farm tables that were never coming apart. Far as I know they are still in the barn from decades ago!
One thing that I've noticed is that you only use a guide block for cutting and cleaning up angle cuts with a chisel. Would you do a short video on a comparison(pros/cons) between eastern(Japanese) and Western ways of using chisels? The Japanese always use a guide block as well as wetting the joint for cleaning up joints, even 90° ones. We don't! Why is that? I enjoy your videos and learn lots from them. Thanks you for them and what you do for vets!
Very nice!! Thank you!!🙌
Thanks for commenting
I'm about to build my own work table for a bakery I am starting to save money and these joints will come in really handy especially for when I need to move it. I'd like to ask a question if I can. Is it a forgiving joint for a newbie to build?
I’ll have to try it in a project sometime!
You will like it
Is there any advice you would have if you were building something that would be regularly take apart and re assembling with this type of joint
Can’t wait to get to your workshop in August… just need some more tools… never have enough tools😃😃
Until you pick up your tool bag... (Cue straining primal grunting man sounds...) :-)
Those bedrocks add up fast!
Thumbs up for sure
To prevent breakout of the end of the tenon, it would possible to drill a hole through from edge to edge and glue in a dowel.
You're awesome!
Nice ... some great techniques for measurement, layout and final fitting! Nice touch with the knob for whacking on the business end. The wedge in your example at the start seemed to have a more substantial surface for hammering in the removal direction, as compared to the demonstration wedge, which ended up somewhere between 1/4" and 3/16" ... might not something that thin be prone to 'frayed ends'? Cheers! Farmer John, Ontario, Canada ... P.S. ... can you perhaps mention PHP class availability on your Saturday live session? This year or next for me if space and Covid permit!
Great! Thanks!
You are the first comment...2 gold stars....Thnaks
Excellent video. Thanks for sharing. The tenon fits snug in the mortise so if this was done in January would it come apart in August? Shouldn’t it be fit like a drawer to allow for expansion?
If the big tenon shrinks, I think that's ok because the shoulders still get pulled tight against the leg. If you mean the wedge, if that shrinks in the dry seasons, it just goes further into the mortise.
On the other hand if he did this in a dry season it might not go in with more humidity, so that's a thing to look out for.
Awsome !
Thank you! Cheers!
How do you decide the right width of a chisel to cut let's say the mortise in this case? I would have thought you use a larger chisel. Thanks
👍
Horizontal wedges work OK but are not as rigid as a vertical wedge. They can and will work loose over time whereas gravity tends to drop the vertical wedge down if the timber gets dry and loosens the pressure of the wedge.
The choice of timber for the wedge makes a big difference to its function. You want a timber that is tough and resists compression. Traditionally Apple is one of the best, for the same reason it makes the best mallet heads.
Never make the wedge angle more than three degrees. The shallower the angle, the more powerful the lock. Steep wedges pop loose.
Make the through tenon as long as you can without it looking ungainly and your stretcher as wide as you can for maximum stability. Those are the basic rules.
The best wedge style to copy is like those you see on wooden moulding planes. It's practical and decorative.
The very best wedge timber is crab apple. Tough and resistant to splitting and chipping.
Japanese white oak is an excellent choice too.
Would you mind helping me with this question?:
Is it true that there should be a gap between the wedge and the 90° degrees side of the side of the mortise where that wedge sits, in the "tusked mortise and tenon joint"? Or it does not really matter if the mortise where the wedge sits is the same side than the wedge?
I only recommend people use wood they would never in their entire lifetime be able to find makes me feel so smug and self-satisfied
@@woodshopsquared3183
A few English grammar lessons wouldn't go amiss. Your reply makes no sense whatsoever.
@@joschmoyo4532 Whose tradition, what people, what time? In Greece the tradition is olive wood. What one does not know is more important than what they do know. Good day. God bless.
@@flashwashington2735
Ah yes. If your lucky enough to have access to Olive wood, which happens to be one of my absolute favourite timbers, it's a perfect choice. It's dense, tough, water resistant and has low shrinkage.
The King of timbers, as used by Odysseus himself as his threshhold and bed.
Perfect for knife handles, cutting boards, keyplates and the very finest marquetry inlays.
Hi Rob,
Would there be any benefit to making two smaller tusks spaced apart in the tenon or would that be more work with no gain?
I think you are much better off with one tusk unless it was a huge tenon
Rob which bit is the tusk?
Could this be effective with plywood? After watching your video I am wondering if the Cosman workbench could be assembled this way? I haven’t made the bench yet but planning to start the build soon.
I believe he showed that at the beginning of the video
@@daveklein2826 thank you that’s right he did. It was just the legs though, I wonder how the a plywood tenon would hold up?
Hey Rob, hope your ok.
This one seemed a bit rushed to be honest.
I do admire your work and teaching skills.
But this one seems off the mark.
I watched it to see the master tips on a tusk tennon.
Assumptions were: know how to make a mortise, how to make a tennon.
What I found missing was how to make it good. It was alluded to but not made obvious.
The importance of a loose fit, how the tusk works (angle, width, length)
I do enjoy your faffing around but it’s hard to glean the true necessity of what you are doing.
Again, with greatest respect for your skills.
Someone in your teaching demographic.
Re: 2:00 gravity
I already have a really strong joint.. 😂😂
"Ok, I am going to make this measurement very precise because.... mumble, mumble, mumble..." (Not a real quote, but an example)
It seems that in every video, when you are concentrating hard (and seemingly when we need to know exactly why and what you are doing), you drift off into unintelligible mumbling. Have a look at @26:00 to 26:30 for a prime example, although these moments are scattered throughout the video.
I mean this as constructive criticism, not a cheap shot.
I don’t have any difficulty understanding him. Even CZcams’s auto captions (which can be really inaccurate at times) are correct.
So after all that time using thousands of dollars of equipment you have a nice joint...but how bout making it so Harry homeowner can make one using his hand tools...keep it real remember not everyone has your equipment...mr.Doright... remember your roots...😔
I look at it this way, if you plan to explore woodworking as a hobby/life passion, you have to invest in some basic tools or join a club. Table saw, jointer are must haves. The hollow chisel I used was $300 ish, not “thousands” of dollars!
Metric measurements would be so much easier.
Not for most North Americans. People tend to use what they're used to.
When he brought out the second huge gauche i knew this was not worth it. Why in hell would you take this much time and equipment to make this tyoe of joint. Seems like mastrubation to me. Definetly 0 points in intuition.
I give you 0 points for your woodworking knowledge.
Hey Jan, do you realize thousands of people read these comments? It would be a good idea to think first, wait a bit, read your comment again (before posting) and then decide if it makes you look foolish. You still have the option of removing it.
@@RobCosmanWoodworkingwith all due respect, the same could be said to you