Nice video. Concise and has all the information in a simple 6 min video. I hate seeing a 20 minute video it means I'm going to hear a lot of talking about who knows what. Thanks for keeping it to the subject.
Thanks....The other side of it is that if you do the whole housing w/spindle and bearings already installed you can probably do the job in a half an hour dropping the deck and all. So that has its upside too.. LOL.
Thanks for making this video. Please understand the % of bearing failure related to improper handling. 4:08, this is one of the ways bearing "brinelling" damage is caused. We're All in This Together. Sincerely, Tim.
Don Schlonski - He whacked the bearing into place with a hammer- Not Good. It should be pressed into place or if you’re going to hammer it at least use a socket or bearing driver to engage only the outer race of the bearing, never pound on the inner race. The races are the inner and outer metal rings by the way.
Bought new spindles finding the bearings were sealed. This doesn't allow grease to get to the balls in the bearings, so I picked out one seal each bearing and replaced the parts stuffing the bore with new grease. Then I noticed the grease zert is blocked from getting the grease gun on the nipple, so I found angled zerts to replace them allowing proper connection with grease gun. Also bought the stiffener rings to help strengthen the hub to deck area. POR15 treated the entire underside of the deck last year and seeing this year it is very impressive how rust free it is. Touching up the JD yellow paint and new idler pulleys & fresh new belt & blades should have my mower dependable this season.
Wow. That should have the mower deck ready to last for the next decade ! That sounds like an amazing deck overhaul. Thanks for sharing and thanks for watching the video .
Excellent video! The only thing it doesn't show is how to get the first bearing off (in this video it's destroyed, mine was intact but siezed). I used a socket extension bar (without any socket attached) to pop one end out - then the 17mm socket trick (from the vid) to get the other. If you have a pin punch, that's ideal, but all I had was my socket set!
I’ve seen some guys take the cover ring off the the top bearing as well and face it downwards so when you put grease through the zert grease gets in the top bearing. With it sealed no grease can get it. I’ve taken new sealed bearings apart and they barley put any grease on them and I mean barely.
Supply & Demand . I still have bearings from 50yrs ago that are serviceable . Nowadays Cheap junk With exceptions to a few that can be taken apart and greased . Thats why i think the stuff built many years ago in the USA is stall around . We as America & Americans need to get back to & Demand Made In America ! Remember when it felt so good to pick up something that says Made In the USA With Pride ! Lets get back there .
Great vid. I'm working on one right now. My issue is the damn fasteners are so worn I cant get the blades off the spindle. Once I can do that I can replace the bearings. Otherwise I will be spending considerable more for new mandrels, spindles, etc. I'm going to try again today, hopefully get everything off so I can swap out bearings. Otherwise gotta get the whole kit.
great video... thank you.. My spindle became so bad.. i hit a root and now I can move the blade up and down about 1/2".. I think I blew out the entire bearing housing after watching this video. going to take it apart and hopefully find just that.
Good luck with that Kurt. If you had that much wobble you may have damaged the housing as well. if the bearing doesnt fit tightly you will need to replace the housing as well. Best of luck with that.
I should also note that the bearings are just branded/overpriced 6203 bearings. John Deere bearings would've cost me $20+ each - the generic 6203 bearings were $4.35 each at the local auto parts store,
Thanks for mentioning the wrench sizes for removing the spindle housings. I needed that! 10, 15, & 22. Check! But doesn't the lock tight make a future removal more difficult? New bolts for new housings are self tapping, I doubt I need that. I am installing the ones with grease fittings.
Use blue Loctite and the bolts will come off with an impact. The blue Loctite is made to keep the bolt from coming loose yet still be able to break it loose for the next repair.
Do you need to use lock-tite on the top spindle nut. (22mm socket). What type of lock-tite should I be using for the 4 spindle screws on the underside of the deck? Thanks for the good informative video.
No. I dont think you need any locktite on the big nut. The smaller one probably doesn't need it either, but the medium should be fine. If you have some at home just use what you have. It will be fine. Just a drop though, dont go crazy with it. Good luck with that.
Do you know what is involved to remove/reinstall the bushing on the idler pulley on the mower deck? I have a new idler pulley but I have noted that it does not have a new center bushing.
The idler pulley has a sealed bearing in the middle of it and a bushing inside of the bearing. The bushing should just slide out. you may have to pound it out or press it out then just put it in the new bearing , but it should be doable. Hope this helps.
eddie d yes you can just flip the deck back and forth for what you need to do. If it’s just the outside spindles you don’t have to take the deck off the mower but then you have to raise it high enough to get the spindle out.
I had to replace mine I found a new pair (2) of housings on Ebay for the just a little bit more money than it would have cost me to replace all the bearings !. Cuz both of mine where shot ! But I made sure to take apart the new housings and pull the bearings out and remove one side of the rubber seals on the bearings and pack them myself with grease and then put them both back on with the open end towards the inside of the housing,. Just a trick an old wise man told me. he side they will last a lot longer and then when you put grease in them through the grease cert. in will get in the bearings better and make them last a lot longer !
Yeah. Your older friend is right. Even though they dont make bearings like they used to. A little grease packed in the housings will make them last much longer. Back in the day there were grease fittings on everything ! When stuff used to last if taken care of ! I think what you did will probably work well.
I disagree. Leave the top bearing sealed. The open bottom bearing will benefit from gravity keeping it lubed but the upside down open top bearing will loose it's lubrication as the grease pools in the bottom of the spindle. The original JD parts are a sealed top bearing and one side (up) open bottom bearing. These are made this way for the reason I just explained. As the grease heats up in the top bearing it will be removed by gravity. You will end up with a dry, prematurely worn out top bearing.
Are all bearing replacement on J Deere spindles mostly the same. I have an Z225 Eztrak and want to replace my own spindle bearings. I didnt see any video on that model?
@@cvideos9641 If the customer for me is short on money I just drill them and tap them to 3/8 or 7/16 and put a standard bolt in there. Heat them with a torch and they usually come out. Otherwise it's just a mounting bolt, a drill, a bit, and a tap will solve it.
Yes.... You can just use a ratchet. You will have to stop moving parts from spinning though. a piece of 2x4 will work on the mower blades to jam it from spinning. and take the pulley bolt off first. Good luck with that.
Disliked because you didn't need to remove the blade or spindle to change the bearings. All you had to do was knock the spindle shaft down and out the bottom of the deck, then knock the two bearings out with a long flat screwdriver. Clean up the spindle housing, insert new bearings and spindle/blade shaft. Done.
Yeah I saw them too. I know they are made in China. If they hold up then they are a great deal, and yes simpler too. I personally have not had very good luck at all with the quality of anything made in China.
lastmoto777 my friend got one and it's been holding up well for his john deere l120 for 4 years, so if it even holds up that long for 30 bucks then it was worth it. funny how you say that considering the vast majority of john deere parts are made in china now. prob the reason why john deeres don't last nearly as long as they used to anymore. that and they gotten away from medal and put more plastic on their lawn mowers with each new generation. I was looking at a d110 and even the choke/speed lever is one big plastic piece now.
4 years is pretty good. I was wondering how they would hold up. My mother in law has one of the very first lawn tractors made by John Deere. Its at least 35 years old and is built like a tank compared to the L118 we bought about 8 years ago. her spindles lasted over 30 years!
lastmoto777 yeah for sure john deere quality on their lawn tractors have greatly gone down hill since then todays john deeres you will be lucky for the thing to last 10 years without the engine or transmission blowing up on you. and I saw how they switched recently from the kohlar engines to the briggs engines in the new d100 series. to me that a downgrade in engine quality. those birggs engines aren't that good of quality. I've had more issues with those types of engines on my lawn mowers over the years then any other engine from carb issues to rods seizing up on me. my john deere l110 is going on 10 years old and that kohlar engine has stood the test of time and still runs great. the more and more plastic I see on these new john deeres the more and more cheaper they become. these john deeres today couldn't hold a candle to your aunts john deere.
Nice video. Concise and has all the information in a simple 6 min video. I hate seeing a 20 minute video it means I'm going to hear a lot of talking about who knows what. Thanks for keeping it to the subject.
Thank you for that comment ! I seriously try hard to make my videos as short and concise as I can without wasting peoples time..Thanks for watching.
You did a very good job on the video. I have replaced the spindles, but never just the bearings. I commend you on that.
Thanks....The other side of it is that if you do the whole housing w/spindle and bearings already installed you can probably do the job in a half an hour dropping the deck and all. So that has its upside too.. LOL.
lastmoto777 7l
Thanks for making this video. Please understand the % of bearing failure related to improper handling. 4:08, this is one of the ways bearing "brinelling" damage is caused. We're All in This Together. Sincerely, Tim.
what did he do at 408 that is so wrong?
Don Schlonski - He whacked the bearing into place with a hammer- Not Good. It should be pressed into place or if you’re going to hammer it at least use a socket or bearing driver to engage only the outer race of the bearing, never pound on the inner race.
The races are the inner and outer metal rings by the way.
Bought new spindles finding the bearings were sealed. This doesn't allow grease to get to the balls in the bearings, so I picked out one seal each bearing and replaced the parts stuffing the bore with new grease. Then I noticed the grease zert is blocked from getting the grease gun on the nipple, so I found angled zerts to replace them allowing proper connection with grease gun. Also bought the stiffener rings to help strengthen the hub to deck area. POR15 treated the entire underside of the deck last year and seeing this year it is very impressive how rust free it is. Touching up the JD yellow paint and new idler pulleys & fresh new belt & blades should have my mower dependable this season.
Wow. That should have the mower deck ready to last for the next decade ! That sounds like an amazing deck overhaul. Thanks for sharing and thanks for watching the video .
Thanks for posting this. We are replacing our Spindle on our L-110 automatic after 14 years, and re painting the blade too.
Excellent video! The only thing it doesn't show is how to get the first bearing off (in this video it's destroyed, mine was intact but siezed). I used a socket extension bar (without any socket attached) to pop one end out - then the 17mm socket trick (from the vid) to get the other. If you have a pin punch, that's ideal, but all I had was my socket set!
Sweet. I'm glad the video was helpful. Good job!
Thanks so much. Great video. Especially for mentioning the socket sizes !
Thanks. Glad the video helped.
That black guard is just a brake. You can pull it back. Then install belt.
Short and to the point. Good video.
Thanks. Glad the video was helpful.
I’ve seen some guys take the cover ring off the the top bearing as well and face it downwards so when you put grease through the zert grease gets in the top bearing. With it sealed no grease can get it. I’ve taken new sealed bearings apart and they barley put any grease on them and I mean barely.
Wow. I know everyone is cutting back but,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,Thats horrible.
Supply & Demand . I still have bearings from 50yrs ago that are serviceable . Nowadays Cheap junk With exceptions to a few that can be taken apart and greased . Thats why i think the stuff built many years ago in the USA is stall around . We as America & Americans need to get back to & Demand Made In America ! Remember when it felt so good to pick up something that says Made In the USA With Pride ! Lets get back there .
You can heat up the spindle to get the bearings to slide in
Great vid. I'm working on one right now. My issue is the damn fasteners are so worn I cant get the blades off the spindle. Once I can do that I can replace the bearings. Otherwise I will be spending considerable more for new mandrels, spindles, etc.
I'm going to try again today, hopefully get everything off so I can swap out bearings. Otherwise gotta get the whole kit.
Great video .. very informative and will probably save me $100 bucks in labor cost. Thanks!
Great video, very informative, and you kept it G rated. Thanks
Glad you liked the video.
great video... thank you.. My spindle became so bad.. i hit a root and now I can move the blade up and down about 1/2".. I think I blew out the entire bearing housing after watching this video. going to take it apart and hopefully find just that.
Good luck with that Kurt. If you had that much wobble you may have damaged the housing as well. if the bearing doesnt fit tightly you will need to replace the housing as well. Best of luck with that.
Nice work, very clear and well made vid. I might suggest anti-seize on those blade bolts as well, if they get put on with an impact gun.
Stay gold.
Great video full of detail step by step
Thanks. I am glad the video was helpful.
I should also note that the bearings are just branded/overpriced 6203 bearings. John Deere bearings would've cost me $20+ each - the generic 6203 bearings were $4.35 each at the local auto parts store,
True.. Lots of 6203 bearings on Amazon & from Grainger. Great Prices!
Are the top and bottom bearings the same, or one just doesn't have the inner facing cover seal? Thanks!
@@edsfx8445 both the same works, don’t worry about the different seals
@@chrisralph2737 Great! Thanks for the reply!
Thanks for mentioning the wrench sizes for removing the spindle housings. I needed that!
10, 15, & 22. Check!
But doesn't the lock tight make a future removal more difficult? New bolts for new housings are self tapping, I doubt I need that. I am installing the ones with grease fittings.
Use blue Loctite and the bolts will come off with an impact. The blue Loctite is made to keep the bolt from coming loose yet still be able to break it loose for the next repair.
Great video. Thanks for posting
Nice presentation
Why do you work the trigger so much doing short little bursts on the impact wrench? One longer pull works just fine.
Thanks for the awesome video!
Nice job thanks for sharing
Do you need to use lock-tite on the top spindle nut. (22mm socket). What type of lock-tite should I be using for the 4 spindle screws on the underside of the deck? Thanks for the good informative video.
No. I dont think you need any locktite on the big nut. The smaller one probably doesn't need it either, but the medium should be fine. If you have some at home just use what you have. It will be fine. Just a drop though, dont go crazy with it. Good luck with that.
Cool, I just wanted to know, for sure.
Thanks, for the reply!
Thank you
Thanks for the video.....have to do mine
Do you know what is involved to remove/reinstall the bushing on the idler pulley on the mower deck? I have a new idler pulley but I have noted that it does not have a new center bushing.
The idler pulley has a sealed bearing in the middle of it and a bushing inside of the bearing. The bushing should just slide out. you may have to pound it out or press it out then just put it in the new bearing , but it should be doable. Hope this helps.
Did the bearing have a missing side area. Or did you make it that way.
No .That is the way the bearings come. I think that allows for a grease gun to force grease into the bearing from the housing grease fitting
Couldn't you just leave spindle mounted, knock the bearings out each side?
eddie d yes you can just flip the deck back and forth for what you need to do. If it’s just the outside spindles you don’t have to take the deck off the mower but then you have to raise it high enough to get the spindle out.
Sure. I just happened to have the deck off for maintenance. Best of luck with it.
Excellent, thanks for sharing.
I had to replace mine I found a new pair (2) of housings on Ebay for the just a little bit more money than it would have cost me to replace all the bearings !. Cuz both of mine where shot ! But I made sure to take apart the new housings and pull the bearings out and remove one side of the rubber seals on the bearings and pack them myself with grease and then put them both back on with the open end towards the inside of the housing,. Just a trick an old wise man told me. he side they will last a lot longer and then when you put grease in them through the grease cert. in will get in the bearings better and make them last a lot longer !
Yeah. Your older friend is right. Even though they dont make bearings like they used to. A little grease packed in the housings will make them last much longer. Back in the day there were grease fittings on everything ! When stuff used to last if taken care of ! I think what you did will probably work well.
I disagree. Leave the top bearing sealed. The open bottom bearing will benefit from gravity keeping it lubed but the upside down open top bearing will loose it's lubrication as the grease pools in the bottom of the spindle. The original JD parts are a sealed top bearing and one side (up) open bottom bearing. These are made this way for the reason I just explained. As the grease heats up in the top bearing it will be removed by gravity. You will end up with a dry, prematurely worn out top bearing.
@@diverdon184 Clever! Thanks for sharing!!
Should you not have bolted the four bolts on the bottom side before the assembly of the entire spindle, to make sure it aligns properly.
Sure, you can do it that way too. Either way It will line up right because there's only one way it can bolt on, So there will not be alignment issues.
Are all bearing replacement on J Deere spindles mostly the same. I have an Z225 Eztrak and want to replace my own spindle bearings. I didnt see any video on that model?
the mounting bolts always break on me
same here. and once they break, doesn't the entire spindle have to be replaced?
@@cvideos9641 If the customer for me is short on money I just drill them and tap them to 3/8 or 7/16 and put a standard bolt in there. Heat them with a torch and they usually come out. Otherwise it's just a mounting bolt, a drill, a bit, and a tap will solve it.
I would like to know the external diameter and the internal diameter of the Bearing GX21510
- Axial load that can withstand?
Thank you
those are radial bearings, not thrust, why would you need to know that?
you are a nerd for even asking this question. Hes a dude thats sharing not your effing private mechanic or analyst
Are you using a 1/2 air impact or 3/8?
I used a 1/2 on it, but it might have been a little overkill. ( set lower )
how to repair the spindle &housing apart on gravely zero turn zt 1742 deck
you dont even make any sense
can you remove the nuts without an impact wrench if so how?
Yes.... You can just use a ratchet. You will have to stop moving parts from spinning though. a piece of 2x4 will work on the mower blades to jam it from spinning. and take the pulley bolt off first. Good luck with that.
Disliked because you didn't need to remove the blade or spindle to change the bearings. All you had to do was knock the spindle shaft down and out the bottom of the deck, then knock the two bearings out with a long flat screwdriver. Clean up the spindle housing, insert new bearings and spindle/blade shaft. Done.
You forgot to lube your work.
seems like too much work I got my mower deck pulley for 30 bucks on ebay free shipping.
Yeah I saw them too. I know they are made in China. If they hold up then they are a great deal, and yes simpler too. I personally have not had very good luck at all with the quality of anything made in China.
lastmoto777 my friend got one and it's been holding up well for his john deere l120 for 4 years, so if it even holds up that long for 30 bucks then it was worth it. funny how you say that considering the vast majority of john deere parts are made in china now. prob the reason why john deeres don't last nearly as long as they used to anymore. that and they gotten away from medal and put more plastic on their lawn mowers with each new generation. I was looking at a d110 and even the choke/speed lever is one big plastic piece now.
4 years is pretty good. I was wondering how they would hold up. My mother in law has one of the very first lawn tractors made by John Deere. Its at least 35 years old and is built like a tank compared to the L118 we bought about 8 years ago. her spindles lasted over 30 years!
lastmoto777 yeah for sure john deere quality on their lawn tractors have greatly gone down hill since then todays john deeres you will be lucky for the thing to last 10 years without the engine or transmission blowing up on you. and I saw how they switched recently from the kohlar engines to the briggs engines in the new d100 series. to me that a downgrade in engine quality. those birggs engines aren't that good of quality. I've had more issues with those types of engines on my lawn mowers over the years then any other engine from carb issues to rods seizing up on me. my john deere l110 is going on 10 years old and that kohlar engine has stood the test of time and still runs great. the more and more plastic I see on these new john deeres the more and more cheaper they become. these john deeres today couldn't hold a candle to your aunts john deere.
@@RhinoXpress they have to use plastic or YOU and I wouldnt afford the escalating costs of materials and assembly