Engine Warm-Up Myths || EXPLAINED
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- čas přidán 24. 05. 2024
- 🚗 Is warming up your car engine necessary? Find out in this video as we explore engine idling myths vs facts:
00:00 - Intro
00:48 - Fuel condensation
01:58 - Engine oils in cold weather
02:52 - Oil pressure
03:47 - Critical tolerances
What’s your engine warm-up routine? Share in the comments!
#EngineWarmUp #CarCare #VehicleMaintenance - Auta a dopravní prostředky
Finally someone said it. The engine/oil warms faster if you drive slowly than if you let it idle thus, minimizing the wear
It also warms up evenly, unlike when you sit idling.
In the winter I typically start the engine, put it in gear and immediately hold it at redline spinning the tires until the oil, water, tires and brakes come up to temperature. Hope this helps!
Lmao 😂😂
😂😂😂 chill these people will really Believe this.
Lmmfaoooo
You win the internet today
Hahahah
My warm up routine (EJ25) is starting the engine and not touching the gas pedal until rpm drops to the idle. Then i start to drive gently and as low rpm as possible for few minutes.
Sounds reasonable
man ur that scared of that thing taknig a crap huh?? lol must give u some anxiety.
EJs are known to be some of the most reliable engines there are, the only drawback is that they're incredibly unreliable and can break down at any time, often without any warnings. They're pretty awesome though and they really last a long time @@jackhofalot6705
So exactly what he said. Thanks for sharing
@jackhofalot6705 This is literally every engine you should be doing this too.
Canadian here. If it's above 5C, I let it warm up til it idles down, then drive away. Temps below are a 5 minute warmup for heating. 10 minutes for below -20C.
Been 5 months, you coming back? Your explanations on tuning are perfect.
My warm up routin is as the same time I turn the ignition and press down the throttle fully and keep it there and the engine at full RPM, until the engine gets to operating temperature. It's way faster that way! Thanks for the video!
😂😂😂 please tell me you're from the UK this is how me and my old school vauxhall pals treat our cars 🤣
Fastest way to crack the engine block, lmao.
@@baloghbotond4250 take the c20seh engine, no oil or water from cold lasted 40min before it failed 🤣.
If it's warm or hot out, I give it like 10 seconds max just to cycle the oil once or twice. If it's cold out, I normally give it like 45 seconds or so if I'm in a rush.
Favorite channel on CZcams. What I learn from your videos sticks with me.
Welcome back!
We missed you, Ive learned alot from your videos!!
You should consider doing automotive courses/tutorials!
You are that good in explaining things!
Thank you, I appreciate it 🙏🏼
Read the comments, almost no one understood xD
Man your videos are simple and straight! Keep it up! Greetings from Argentina!
Simple but amazing video, keep up the great vids man
Absolutely love your channel please keep making videos
I do not rev past 3k pr more than 1/3rd throttle until the temp gauge is in the middle, unless it would cause an unsafe traffic condition of course. I think thats more that reasonable.
Thx for the video, after watching it I will still be going to warm up the engine every time....winter, summer don't matter! And what you are saying at the minute 3:54 onwards,is the exact reason! !!! I'm not doing anything harmful to the engine anyway....just burning extra fuel!!!!
Warm up routine for my Mazda truck is starting that bb, lighting a stogie, put my boots on, drive slow to the gas station and it’s all warmed up by then.
talked to a mechanic with a mk3 focus RS. he wouldnt put his car in gear until the oil temp gauge had started moving. think its a pretty smart idea especially with a turbo.
Bro, You had me pissing my pants at 2:40!!! You mentioned moving to Australia when it's extremely cold out. I got you my man!!! Awesome!!! LOL
If using the right oil that is recommended by the manufacture, waiting 1-3 minutes is good, depends on the temperature outside, so the metal gets warm and the oil goes around and gets warm to be able to get through the filter without going throw the by pass valve at higher RPM, and do not load the engine much until it gets up to operating temperature.
For mine, it depends. I am Driving a Turbocharged Car. I was told to start the car and let it sits for about 5mins for it to warm up. Which I usually do.
But sometimes I just heck it and drive off immediately upon engine start if I am in a rush but I won't whack the car until about 5 mins later. I find driving off the car warms up the car way faster than letting it sit in idle. I like to look at my gauges so I am able to monitor the temps on the go.
Ive owned several high performance cars some with 1000+HP. Just start your car, and start driving while keeping revs low until motor oil warms up to operating temp.
You should Wait for the high idle to go down first before you start driving though imo
finally some good and fast explanation
same as your warm up- and its a built EJ25- go easy until that temp gauge sits fat in the middle of the dial!
Love this guy's contents. Need the OG intro music back tho...
i normally only idle for like 5minutes early in the morning to let my turbo get some oil, then just drive it without hammering the throttle
My warm up routine is usually is waiting until coolant gets to 120°f then drive lightly for 10 minutes, then send it. But I live in California so temps get up there fairly quickly
pretty much the same, let the idle drop before driving, but I wait a while after the coolant temp gets up to 176° before getting into boost because i run a higher viscosity oil than oem recommended spec!
I once heard a automotive engineer say "I've seen engines damaged for lack of warm up, but I've never seen an engine damaged for allowing it to warm up before driving". And that stick with me. I've had cars and motorcycles, and I've always allow the engine to warm up for at least 2 minutes, and I've never, ever had an engine failure. 👍🇵🇹
I can promise you the engineer was not looking for the failure to be warm up related. If the engine failure was due to cylinder scoring, they would've assumed or correlated the damage to something else. Idling is just fundamentally bad for an engine, plain and simple. Now whether or not you want to argue idling for warmup is dangerous or not, is an entirely different thing. I just find that argument to be EXTREMELY flawed is all.
@@QuincyStick, I don't know. I'm not an Engineer. I do believe that allowing the engine to warm up, just enough (2 min max) to pistons to expand, reduces wear, due piston slap.
@@v8berenguer372 Piston slap, if any, will be extremely minimal to the point of being negligible. One of the recent camry v6s is notorious for piston slap when cold (And when I say piston slap, I mean aggressive enough to be audible during driving, regardless of how well you take care of them), and they still regularly tick for 200k+ miles. Again, if you'd like to argue that allowing the car to warmup for a little while is better than driving it right away, by all means, go ahead! I just think that the argument of "Well I've never been able to tie an engine failure to excessive idling" is pretty poor, as a lot of the potential engine failure modes of excessive idling could be mistakenly attributed to other things, and unless the tech/mechanic does an extensive deep dive into the engine while also thoroughly investigating the drivers habits, they're probably never going to assume that idling is the cause. Not necessarily saying that warmup idling would cause engine failure, simply that I find THAT particular reasoning for that stance to be rather flawed.
@@QuincyStick I'm talking about 2 minutes max. I don't consider that excessive idle. In fact, I heard excessive idle is bad, because it washes away the lubricant from cylinder walls(which is obviously not good), and that excess fuel(cold engines run on a rich mixture) will end up in the oil pan, causing oil contamination/dilution.
@@v8berenguer372 As I said, I haven't an issue with the idea of warming up for a couple of minutes, merely the analogy that "engineer" provided you.
I Love This Guy's Style!!!!! 😎
Thanks
my warmup routine (MR16DDT) is usually about 30 seconds to 1 minute. after i start the car it will do... something. it will run rich and the rpms will bounce a bit and then it will rev itself to about 1500rpm. once it does that it will drop to about 1100. once it does that, i'm good. i usually give it another 10 or 15 seconds or so anyways.
I would add that it is good practice to at least allow the engine to get to its low idle before shifting out of park. Cold engines typically idle high when they are first started and shifting from park when the idle is @ 1500 RPM can be harsh and stresses a transmission over time.
I drive a semi truck doing long haul. I don't warm up my engine intentionally but every morning I spend about 10 to 15 making breakfast and I need electricity to do this. So I had to start my engine to get power to run my air fryer and electric kettle. By the time I'm done making breakfast, the engine is warm enough for me to drive.
Im lucky to have a downhill and slower section of road near my house, so my warm up is pretty much same as yours. Wait for the revs to drop ever so slightly, then change gear at just past 2.5k rpm, cruise down a hill in 3rd, then stick to 40mph in 5th till everythings at operating temp
I start the car, after 20 secs I put the gear in Neutral so the gears spin and heat up as well, and wait until it reaches near ideal operating temperature which takes for me around 5-10 minutes.
i let my bike warm up till the exhaust sound changes (15-20 secs) (because it doesn't have a rpm meter) and my reason is I think the metal should have a nice transition in temperature cause just getting onto the engine might rise the temps quick and it might increase wear , I might be completely wrong but I love my bike enough to waste that little time, no offence you can get onto ur machine high up to sky limit.
I think it's also quite different for motorcycles given the vast rpm differences between them and cars. You can gently drive a car at around 2k rpms pretty easily in a car. Can't exactly say the same for a bike haha (unless you're talking like harleys or something)
oh wow you went to 45k subs. i was here before you even got 1k ;d nice
Well that’s the problem, NOBODY Starts Driving SLOWLY..
Most people think going 2-3K RPMs is SLOW.., well it’s NOT!!
Driving 1-1.5K RPMs is slow but mostly NOBODY follows that, EVERYBODY is in a RUSH!!
I find with closed loop idling at start-up, the car can move under its own power without any additional throttle on flat surfaces.
ny car has a oilpan heater and additional 230volt interior heater
im running 10w-40 (should be 5w-30 or 0w-30 but its a VW so it burns it like fuel) and cold starts without the pre heated oil are pretty rough even at -10c
takes about 10-20 seconds for the topend to quieten down, then i wait for a few minutes for coolant to warm up so i can start to feel my fingers and drive off and hope i make it to work in time
In a warm running engine, the metal "gives" a little (distorts in shape slightly) in response to the forces being put upon it. If you run your engine hard when it's cold it will wear the metal prematurely.
Thats exactly what my warm up routine is. Living in south florida, i never have to warm up until winter. sometimes in the mornings its a Cool ass 60 outside. so i warm up by starting, Getting in Gear. and Rolling Slowly as Possbile out of my neighborhood to the main roads. By the time i get in traffic im approaching operating temps. on EVERYTHING.
60 is not a cold temperature, you just deem 60 as cold. There is absolutely no reason for anyone anywhere to do anything pertaining to heating up a car in that temperature.
My warm up routine is start and drive immediately no idle, in my petrol/gas motor i keep it below 30% of max rpm until coolant and oil are both up to temp and in my diesel i do the same but keep rpm below 45% if max rpm until all at temp.. both my vehicles are direct injection, petrol car is 2009 mazda 3 2.0 sport on 114000miles still running tight and smooth, diesel vehicle is a 2006 vw tuareg 5.0 v10 with 125000miles and also starst runs and drives like new... i change oil every 4000/6months on the mazda and every 6000/6mobths on the diesel. I run archoil fuel system cleaner in both vehicles every 1000miles and they both return at least the mpg and performance they did when new. I think the most important thing is keeping everything gentle until operating temperature and high frequency oil changes with high quality oil and high quality fuel or regular fuel system treatments
he's back!!
People ask me this often, i put it this way to them, these cars arent your grandpapys carburated iron block V8's that need to warm up for like 3 minutes before you get going. I say its valid in my opinion that you need to let your computer let the engine at least warm up until it does kick down in rpms to around 1200 before you start moving, but dont drive it hard until your temps move upto optimal at the very least. Dont start and drive out super hard, that wont do any good to you or your car.
My warm up routine is just like yours
No need to be stationary, but there are some engine components that require expansion from heat for clearances to be correct.
definitely dont beat on it until its warmed up, and when i say "it," i don't mean just the coolant, i mean the coolant, oil, and most importantly if you have a glass transmission like the 4l60e or 4t65e, the transmission
My warm-up routine is waiting the 10 seconds my AFR defaults to 10 for haha, after that jumps to ~14.7 and we take off
Hello bro... Marry Christmas 🎄.
Bro do you doing tune is well ??
Sees your video, likes the video.
that's what i do, i let the car warm a lil bit then just take it easy for a few mins till the temp gauge gets in the middle
honey wake up mzopyrus posted a new video
Hahahaha I knew it was coming 🤣
warm up routine? easy, get in the car, turn it on, and search for music for the ride and by the time I'm done the Cat is hot and ready to go. and with all lights off before i hit the main roads
Живу в России, машина Honda Fit GD2 2007 г. Температур зимой меньше -20 градусов Цельсия не бывает, может достигать до -50, но в моем районе обычная температура -30-40. В американском и русском мануале ничего не написано про прогрев двигателя. На сайте японском сказано, что до -20 греть машину нет необходимости, на американских сайтах от 30 секунд до 1 минуты. В переводе с японского мануала написано-как только обороты уменьшатся, можно ехать, но в морозную погоду желательно постоять ещё несколько минут.
Сам обычно делаю таким образом: если до -20, завожу машину, сажусь, пристёгиваюсь и еду(обороты при запуске держатся около 1400), через 1-1,5 км лампа низкой температуры жидкости гаснет и начинает идти теплый воздух. Если мороз сильнее, жду минуты 2-3 и еду так же обороты обычно за это время падают до 1300-1400. Через 1-1,5 км лампа низкой температуры жидкости гаснет.
По закону у нас греть машину во дворе, жилой территории нельзя больше 5 минут. (Обычно это не наказывается, но и не соблюдается повсеместно некоторые могут греть двигатель до 3 часов).
In winter, I start the car and let it warm up for 5 mins - I like the cabin to be toasty.
Fuel consdensation is still influencing ur Car bc the maschine has a Knock sensor which changes the ignition point which lowers the performance isnt it so? And if ure piston and cylinder wall isnt warmed up there is a bigger gap between it even with the oil and the sealing ring which means that the gasoline gets more in the crankcase isnt it so? And the thing with the 5W30. this doesnt mean that the viscosity is optimal for an not warmed up engine. U showed us the range of the outside Air but when it comes to the inside warmth the oil is not heated enough for optimal running isnt it? like u cant connect the operating scale from the oil to the viscous... of the oil isnt it so? I am just a student so tell me if i am wrong or right and give me the solution pls.
3:50 *clearances
A "tolerance" is a manufacturing specification limit, it has almost nothing to do with how tight-fitting two parts that rub together are. Except perhaps, that a very tight clearance, by definition, requires that the manufacture of the parts maintains a very small tolerance, in order to ensure that clearances are correct.
On the rare cold winter Floridian morningmorning I wait till after I put my boots on after foot powdering my feet, and blowing into my ignition interlock (breathalyzer) which is enough time for the idle to come down then I head out at easy rpm.
I wait til after I pick up my coworker for carpool, then I start gunning it. By then oil temp is right at 190-200 😇
I live in Canada and temperature are often from-20 to -30 celsius in January and February, so yeah I wait 2-3 minutes before sending it in my car because the windshield is too frosted for me to drive. So yeah warm up your car a bit if it’s really cold and stop caring about what other people say about it.
I just got a 93 Miata with the 1.6
I have to let the idle go from 1600 to 1050 upon startup, if not she sputters when accelerating , after that I just go to 4k rpm for shifting on 40mph roads
How about the turbo engines do they have to get warmed up and also cooled down ?
I always wait until the revolutions drop, which is about 30 seconds. Then I drive carefully and slowly along the streets from the house, a maximum of 50 km/h before the water temperature indicator moves, which is about 20-30 degrees Celsius of the coolant. Then I can accelerate to a higher speed on the road outside the city, but I don't bother the engine, I wait until the oil temperature indicator (not water) shows 50 degrees Celsius - then I drive normally. But I don't turn the engine into the red zone unless the oil is at least 70 degrees.
I have gasoline direct injection as a winter car - with a heat exchanger on the exhaust pipes so it heats up relatively quickly and uses all the waste heat from the engine. I also have a petrol 4.4l V8 - and it warms up immediately.
I used to drive a diesel with indirect injection (with swirl prechambers) - and they are prone to cracking the head around the chambers if they are not heated properly, because the prechambers heat up faster than the rest of the head and there is a lot of tension in it. Diesels with direct injection are much less susceptible to head cracking.
My warm up is basicly the same, I will wait for rpm to settle and then light drive it till coolant reaches its operating temp.
FA20 with SC here, I wait for the cold start to finish and the idle drops to 900.
What about different fuel types? Such as ethanol and methanol? I know that alcohol dehydrates parts of your engines, but does this correlate to anything about warming up?
Not really no
Do you teach ecu chip tuning or other?
its about the same, it idles at 1500 then drops to 1000 then i gently guide it until coolant is at operating temp
i'd reckon it also depends on what you drive, a modern Mazda with say the 2.5 Skyactiv engine doesn't take very long to warm up, usually onces it gets close to 120F i start to take off slowly
now in my Civic Si, it drives like utter garbage unless it's at least 50% of normal operation temperature, especially when it's below freezing outside
I will say, 120f is BEYOND 50% of it's normal temperature, so that applies to both of your vehicles.
@@QuincyStick for the Civic specifically, it doesn't give out an actual number, i'm entirely basing it off the digital bars, so typically i take off at 5-6 bars on the temp gauge
hence my "50%" statement, the Mazda is a different story though, you are correct
@@FrozenIce not sure the year of your si, however on the 10th gen civic (2015-2022) the first bar on the temp gauge is 132F (to my knowledge, from my brief google search)
I let it idle for 15 minutes during winter so I can enter a somewhat warm car that isnt fogged up.
And then when i start driving it gets to operating temp in a few minutes.
What about turbo warmup in cold temps? Couldn’t the excess fluctuation in heat possibly crack the manifold? Correct me if I said it wrong, still I usually just start my car up about 10 mins before leaving
Unless the manifold is some sort of shitty aftermarket one, you should be fine. Also unless you live in a very cold climate, 10 minutes is honestly rather excessive. I'd look into the potential issues with excessive idling of a vehicle, and I'd consider 10 minutes PER startup of the vehicle to be rather excesssive. I'd would say once you see your coolant needle begin to move (assuming you have one) you're definitely in the clear. I personally just start mine up, get buckled, get music situated, and then take off and drive gently until the coolant needle is at least in the middle.
@@QuincyStick oh okay gotcha, yea for me the coolant needle only starts moving closer to the 8-10 minute mark depending on how cold it is outside. Thanks tho, if anything I think 5 mins should be enough
I think this myth is engine specific. Its called "operating temperature" because its the ideal conditions. Cars today are built for consumers, who like to hop in fire up and go. So its fine to do this. Its not fine to fire up and go for 2 minutes and then cool off. Heat cycles are what wear engines. If it doesn't reach ideal temp during a drive cycle your causing more wear.
I let the car warm up enough to defrost the windshield on its own, which is about 10 min, If its not frosty I let it run till warm air starts coming out the vents.
Whenever I start my mk7 TDI, IT usually always idles for a minimum five minutes before driving just a bad habit. To my knowledge my extended idle is doing more harm then good with the emissions especially when I don't wanna get in a cold car and it idles for 45 minutes lol
on cold start, the rpms are high, it feels abrupt to let the car GO at that time... and as soon as put in D it drops to below 1000 until brake is pressed... let go brake and car will try to shoot...
How to manage this high rpm then if no warm up is needed?
99 miata with 250k miles.. ALWAYS feels better (initially and throughout the day) when warmed up completely after sitting all night.. Might just be a high- mileage thing 🤷🏻♂
that's an every car thing usually. ecu compensation until it detects your temp being at "operating" - usually a set value so you will notice it run better at a specific point in the temp gauge every time
I wait 10 seconds at startup to have all the parts lubricated. Then I drive under 2000rpms until the oil is at 75C and under 3000rpms while it goes from 75 to 90C. After 90C I can floor it if I want.
Единственное, грею машину чтобы она не замёрзла при стоянке, так как возможности подключить блочный обогреватель электрический нет, гаража теплого нет, слишком дорого. А автономный типо ,Webasto ещё дороже, до 10 раз. Есть портативный гараж типо "Наташи" как в Якутии, помогает сохранять тепло двигателя и машины. Но если вместо этого прокатится на машине минут 15-20, или больше 4 км, то остывает она дольше на пару часов, чем просто прогреть на холостом ходу. За 13 часов вчера с 84 остыла до -13, температура была от --34 утром, до -21 днём, ближе к вечеру -28, ночью за -30.
I drive gently but right away unless it's below 0 f (-18c)then I give it 60-90 seconds before gently driving off
I let my oil warm up to 15 to 20 degree before driving off then get it up operating temp before thrashing it .
2:45 to everybody who uses the metric system why do you use Celsius instead of Fahrenheit? Wind Fahrenheit is more accurate you have more numbers therefore you’re more accurate you can divide those numbers easier then you can Celsius, so why do you use Celsius for heat? We need is harder to do then. Everything else a.k.a. Fahrenheit.
Because everything in metric basically makes more sense 😂. Sorry to say this but it's honestly true.
@@MZopyrus you didn’t answer my question Fahrenheit has more numbers therefore it’s more accurate, so why isn’t Fahrenheit used in the metric system you’re going to use something that says I look 20° is 107° and you’re the ones that want to be precise
@@MZopyrus 😄😂🤣😅😁😄🥲😆😂😄 if I post this isn’t answering a question or is it just doing nothing?
@@oler777 You better start using Kelvin, it is even more accurate....
My warm up routine is the duration to smoke a stick of cigarette which is generally 3-5mins
so yes me with my "outdated" 1997 Suzuki Cary should let it warm up bc its carburated
I also have the same routine as well.. 😂 5:06
I have to let mine warm up a lot to spare the transmission. I don’t know enough about transmissions to know why but mine for whatever reason will shift awfully until it’s quite warm. It’s an automatic 2013 Acura Tl if anyone has an explanation but I’m probably to get it looked at soon anyway
Probably bad fluid that needs to be changed. If yours hasn't ever been changed, and depending on the mileage, it's possible that changing it may only do more harm (REALLY divisive subject and you'll a million different answers as to if that's actually true or not)
Ye my routine is basically yours. I start it up. Wait a few seconds for the idle to drop before putting it in gear. Then it's about 3-10 minutes before I can go apeshit on my car. That wait before it gets to operating temp does very by about a minute or two in cold weather.
I love when my Dad teaches me things.
Hahahaha 😂
Thats the same warm up routine i have
I wait around 2min till the needle drops on the rpm gauge and then drive it normally, not exceeding 3k rpm. Btw i‘m driving a 1987 Nissan Z31
Love the car!
I think it depends on the composition of different components. Aliminum pistons will expand faster then an iron block. That being said excessive idling is pointless. For my old diesel (depending on how cold it is) a few minutes to let some diesel degel and circulate and some time for most of the internals to begin expanding gently is enough to ease into gear and through the rev range until oil temp comes up.
I do it the same as you
All you need to do is wait like a minute and 20 seconds usually it takes 30 seconds for the oil to all around the engine to lubricant everything and then druve off like normal
This is wildly inaccurate. Oil circulates near instantly. Get an oil pressure gauge, or watch any of the 1000 videos that show oil reaching the head within moments of starting the car.
I ride my motorcycle for 5min ish like a normal person would and then send it like there is no tomorrow 😅. But it's never really cold here so...
I floor it within the first second of starting my car
Why i never heard that in school? I have a school especially for cars
Start up. Pull out of the garage. Wait for rpm’s to drop. Drive Mrs daisy around until she’s nice and toasty. Send when appropriate. E63
Isn't it actually MORE of an issue with direct injection because you end up spraying fuel on the cylinder walls and wash down the oil?
That's actually not that big of a concern as some people make it to be, technically your cylinder walls are already almost dry from your car sitting overnight and with one stroke they're already coated with oil again
People who says "today you don't have to warm up" don't know about: PISTON DILATATION
Modern cars do warm in a shorter period? yes.
Oil flow is now better than before? yes.
Oils are better? yes.
But when it is cold engines still have problem with piston/cylinder wear.
Now-days engines have stronger oil pumps than pre-eighties ones, and use more oil, and more flow, and oils are now far one number from another like 5w40, or 0w30. But at the first minute, piston is still on wrong shape which becomes correct when warmed up.
So do not demand too much from your engine when it is still cold.
This is correct
Will this affect your spark plugs because they clean themselves when your engine gets up to operating temp?
Bro. I got a 700hp stage 3 S6 and I want to send that shit so fuckin bad because I don't get to drive it as much..
My question to you is this. I have an oil gauge, an this gauge gets to the "middle" pretty quickly, but my temperature doesn't get to 190/200 until I drive it for a couple of miles (I have a digital gauge for that too)
My question to you is this. When can I fucking send it? When the gauge is at the middle or when my temp is at the "normal" levels
When you get to 190-200 and then another 5 minutes.
Just because your oil is upto temp doesn't mean the entire engine and drivetrain are.