you are doing nothing wrong, the level of your engineering skills is over the top, using a grinding disk for a spacer shows the genius you already are. If you persist long enough you will find a solution to this conundrum. Great work by the way man.
Bonjour Félicitations pour la réplique de votre Liberty engine, je le trouve bien conçu. Monsieur, toutes les informations que je vous livre ici sont confirmés par le créateur du liberty engine Je suis membre de sa chaîne hidden technologie et j'ai donc accès à ses vidéos privées. J'ai également pu communiquer avec lui dans les commentaires. Je suis une des rares personnes à qui il a répondu que j'étais sur la bonne voie. Le créateur est très précis dans ce qu'il dit. Le rotor est principalement fait d'argent et d'aluminium, plus d'autres matériaux dans une moindre mesure. Il ne donne pas l'alliage exact du rotor mais il donne énormément d'indices intéressants. L'alliage est protégé par brevet, à nous de le trouver Vous indiquez que votre rotor est en aluminium. Ça ne peut pas fonctionner, vous allez comprendre pourquoi : La fonction principale de l'alliage du rotor et de renvoyer vers les bobines les courants magnétiques qui généreraient le freinage. La puissance est augmentée puisque les courants magnétiques sont plus forts Le rotor est diamagnétique Le diamagnétisme est un comportement des matériaux, lorsqu'ils sont soumis à un champ magnétique, a créé une aimantation opposée au champ extérieur, et donc à engendrer un champ magnétique opposé au champ extérieur. L'argent est diamagnétique, c'est ce qui m'a mis sur la voie Donc le rotor est principalement fait d'argent et d'aluminium, plus deux ou trois des matériaux suivants Les matériaux diamagnétiques : Bismuth. -16,6×10-⁵ Carbone (diamant). -2,1×10-⁵ Carbone (graphite). -1,6×10-⁵ Cuivre -1,0×10-⁵ Plomb. -1,8×10-⁵ Mercure. -2,9×10-⁵ Argent. -2,6×10-⁵ Les aimants du rotor sont réglés sur une configuration du réseau de albach. Un réseau de albach est une disposition particulière d aiment permanent qui accroît le champ magnétique d'un côté tout en éliminant presque totalement le champ magnétique de l'autre côté. Il est très important d'utiliser un oscilloscope. Il semblerait que si un alternateur alimente le moteur à courant alternatif alors ; l'alternateur et le moteur doit être synchronisé par onde sinuosïdal afin qu'il se complète et ne se "battent" pas l'un contre l'autre. Le créateur dit bien qu'il faut respecter le diamètre du rotor qui est de 133 mm. Il fait 7 kg 600. Les aimants font 34 mm de longueur , 12 mm de largeur pour 3,5 mm d'épaisseur. Il y en a 6 par rainure, donc 24 au total Je pense commencer à en construire un d'ici 6 mois à 9 mois Je vais utiliser 70 % entre l'argent et l'aluminium, en privilégiant l'argent. Pour les autres matériaux bismuth en premier, c'est le matériau le plus diamagnétique. Je pense également au mercure, dur à trouver. Et peut-être du carbone (diamant). J'espère que tous ces éléments peuvent vous aider. Je peux vous envoyer sur votre boîte mail toutes les captures d'écran que j'ai pu faire sur les commentaires ainsi que les réponses du créateur. Bravo et bon courage, on réussi en faisant des erreurs
@@norbertosilva2433le rotor fait 7,6 kg avec les aimants. Le rotor est fabriqué maison, coulé dans un four à induction avec contrôle de la température de chauffe et de refroidissement. Les aimants néodyme font 34 mm de long, 12 mm de largeur et 3,5 mm d épaisseur ( on les trouvent pas dans le commerce, faut les faire fabriquer) il y en a 6 par rainure donc 24 au total.
Bonjour Non, un rotor en bois ne marchera pas. Il faut comprendre que le rotor repousse le chant magnétique vers les bobines, cela permet d augmenter la puissance puisque les courants magnétiques sont plus fort sur les bobines. Les courants magnétiques ne traversent pas le rotor, donc il n' y a plus de freinage et le moteur qui entraîne le rotor consomme très peu d énergie. Un rotor en bois ne renverra pas les courants magnétiques vers les bobines. Salutations à vous
What are you doing???... Those coils are not for producing electricity, but rather they are used for producing magnetic field to keep the fly wheel running. That fly wheel is connected to generator. Once the generator is started, it'll give electricity to these microwave coils as well as to other devices. That's the whole process of the liberty engines.
No it's not...notice the motor is behind the fly wheel and there are output points for each coil around seemingly iron and a magnet for each coil...the flywheel isn't aligned positive to negative on the flywheel. It's opposite. To output electricity. I can make a generator so I know
It's gonna measure a voltage no matter what...but it's not alternating... it's a constant flow measurable by wire wrap volume and field strength frictioning
Thank you for the simulation quality. I will point out the shortcomings of this simulation based on what I know about Freedom Engine 2.0. 1. The alloy must be made from the same materials used to manufacture the rotor of the Liberty Engine. 2. The alloy must be of the same diameter as mentioned. 3. An array of magnets must be used to strengthen the magnetic field as much as possible, making sure it is the same width as the rotor. 4. The engine must rotate at a speed of 1400 rpm and this is a prerequisite for achieving proper synchronization. In addition to all this, I believe that there are many secrets of Freedom Engine 2.0 that have not been revealed. Perhaps you have seen the latest model that operates without a rotating part. Although its idea seems possible from a physical standpoint, it raises many questions. Thank You.
I'm so glad I found this. I built my own as well, my rotor was made from poured epoxy into a 3d printed mold that held the magnets in place. Once fully assembled, I got the exact same results as you - 7-8 volts per transformer. I thought it was because of my design choices, but it looks like you did it differently and got the same results as me. I'm thinking scam.
In one of the comments, one person gave me some excellent info on the rotor. As I understand it, the magic is all in the rotor. The rotor need to be made of a diamagnetic material, for example a mix of silver and bismuth. Aluminium is paramagnetic and thus will not work. I'll have to do some experimentation and research on the % of the mix to make a new rotor. I'll also upgrade my magnets to 70x20x10 N52 on the next one I'll make.
Bro,... for real? now is the time you realise that😑😑😑, it's a scam!!! Why does everyone fall for that?!? It's the law of physics, you clearly haven't read that! No material can give you more than the input you gave to the material. You can view an oscillating object for example. When that object is released, why do you think the object stops moving left to right or back and forth instead of moving forever? Loss of energy man!!! Never fall for this kinds of free energy bullshits.
@@Watchman-Eze33 THat is all BS. You can get the exact ratio of silver and aluminum and it would cost about $5000 for the rotor alone. Silver is higher conductivity so higher eddy currents. This is a scam
You don’t get the voltage from the transformers. If you look at the original design it’s from the terminal box on top of the motor. The motor is acting as a generator.
I could be wrong but those coils dont supply the power. They act as electro magnets to leep the device spinning. The power is generated by the motor the flywheel is attached to.
That is the point. The alternator gives excitation current to the coils which spins to keep the alternator going, at the same time, alternator gives out the energy to be utilised.
Nu are importanță prea mare locul bobinei pe miez, ci mai degrabă e greșit ales magnetul, care trebuie neapărat să fie cât lățimea miezului de tole pe care e băgat bobina. Un magnet îngust, nu poate crea o amplitudine mare , dacă miezul e mult mai lat , așa cum se vede în imagini. Eu nu cred în „vrăjeala” cu miezul din amestec de argint, deși un prieten mi-a descris niște motoare cu așa miezuri, folosite în domeniul extracției de petrol. Dacă poți, refă rotorul , montând pe el magneți lați cât miezul bobinelor, și groși, pentru a fi puternici. La o turație de 1500 de ture, fiecare bobină ar trebui să producă o tensiune aproape de 220-230V (pentru că aici vor fi 50Hz) , și curentul pe care-l poate da sârma , miezul și magnetul. Așa se pot lega bobinele în paralel pentru a spori intensitatea curentului, sau serie și paralel, pentru a le spori pe ambele dacă e nevoie.
After reading some of the comments, there is 2 i really like. Move the coils closer to the rotor and use a oscilloscope to measure the output. Looking at those coils in my opinion they should easily put out 100+ volts
When you wire them in series and use a diod to get negative and positive. Voltage will multiple and then use a cap according to the voltage obtained ( magnet should be the same width of coils center. My generates 74.5 dc volt. Excellent to charge my 48v lithium batteries but I also used an mppt solar charger controller.
I did the same creatiin as you and got out same voltage aroung 7v each so if i to conect each coil together i would have got output around 20v which is not enough to give the power back to the motor not even to have left to power other equipment, greate work thank you for confirming my experiment. You did nothing wrong i did the exact same thing, but as tou know the magician never reveal the secret 😅
@@Watchman-Eze33 did you see the comment where someone lists the original motor as being 2800rpm..?? if true its a poor show on the liberty team... but more speed may be key
I think your magnets are too small in relation to your coils. The magnets should be almost as wide as the coils for best output. Awesome machining skills tho. This really looks good. I think the liberty is a fake but I believe the motor/energizer idea from Bedini is a good way to go and you have a good start with your machine.
The wire is too thick. The more turns in the coil, the higher the voltage. ie: the longer the wire passing through the magnetic field, the higher the voltage.
Basically ... You're only checking the coils. Total is around 28 the rest of the voltage comes from the motor... The coil creates electric magnetic energy. Coils are not the full energy provider because their separate to help the router spin so it can power up the motor so it can create energy
The motionless version is better though using resonating Mot cores each end of a set of stator coils. The stator coils produce multicoil current some of which supplies the MOT cores and useful excess power!!!!!!
Greetings sir, you are not wrong when you say that the project is a scam. Well, I made the same thing a little more rustic, and the voltage was the same as the Sullo, then I changed the position of the coils, I put them closest to the rotor and My voltage went up to 55.8, I will continue exploring,===== Saludos señor, usted no se equivoca al decir que el proyecto es una estafa, Pues Yo ise lo mismo un poco mas rustico, y el voltaje me dio igual al Sullo, después cambie de posición las bobinas , las puse lo mas próximo al rotor y me subió el voltaje a 55. 8 , seguiré explorando ,
Hi Watchman2021....kudu's for trying....the magnets might be N52's but is to little flux to energize your coils to produce the expected volts. Also, the coil's wire you used it to thick for high voltage. (That Liberty machine is a scam as is but have huge potential as I will explain)....that coils you used is for high current usage and thus your low voltage output. I suggest you use about 0,5 mm copper wire in conjunction with that size coil wire in parallel with each other....in other words....wind another coil with 0,5 mm wire to take up all the space between the excising coil and the rotor, but wire it in parallel. That will give you much higher voltage and the microwave coil will give you the current. Your magnets are far to small...they need to be as wide as the transformer center you used. Also, pls use a piece of metal at the back of the magnet as it cause the magnets to have better flux density on the other surface. Think about speaker magnets that has a back plate....you remove that back plate and the ceramic ring magnet all of a sudden has far less attractive or repulsive power. It goes without saying that you must have all the coils in series as to add the voltage and currents available. In addition to that I have build mine with 8 microwave oven transformers. All at 45 degrees with 8 magnets. The voltage output is not good with just 4 transformers.....has a sine wave then flat for 45 degrees....but with 8 TR's the sine wave is much better....not perfect but huge improvement...Magnet size is 50x25x15 neodymium which give far more flux density then the thin little one.....But its important to use 2 coils per transformer.....one for voltage and on for current. Mine works well....good luck bro!!
If I may ask, how much voltage does yours produce in the setting/configuration you have mentioned above bro? Been trying to figure this out without luck
What is the speed of the motor? and the size of the magnet? The magnetic permeability of the metal core you use? That core doesn't seem to be the original microwave transformer core. It looks like solid steel. Try to move the coil closer to the magnet. I think you get low voltage because of a couple of things: the coil is too far in; motor speed sounds slow; magnetic strength?; and perhaps number of turns is low; may be the cores you used too. you did a great job by the way. Looks very nice.
The motor is 1400rpm as per the original video. I used 4 x 900w microwave transformers, I only sanded the cores to look clean, but they are genuine. Moving the coils closer makes no difference, I tried it also.
@@Watchman-Eze33 Low voltage means a weak magnetic field to the wire (this can be weak magnets or poor permeability). You said you use the original core so what is left is not enough magnetic force. The second reason is the number of turns too small. Do this experiment: Get another microwave transformer and take out the part like you did; put the same coil and core and run 120 volts or 220 volts, whatever voltage you use. Get a gause meter and check the magnetic strength at the core. Once you know the number, check if you get the same with the rotor in your generator. That will give you an idea if you have enough magnetic strength. You will need more than what you measured out of the experiment.
I built mine just recently. I connected the coils in series and was getting a total of 25v ac. I used the old washing machine motor ( universal motor) and was powering it from a 12v dc car battery. I know that the difference in the results I am getting is lies in the electrical/ electronics connection of the output coils. I believe that with more probe, it will be unraveled. The liberty engine producers are yet to inform people of the way the output coils are connected essentially. How did they treat back emf? The drive motor has to speed faster. Let us have a little patience. It must be cracked. Let us all continue with the experimentation. There is hope.
1. You have mounted your windings and transformer core in a + sign right? The top and bottom windings and core take a North pole status. The horizontal ones - south pole. The mounting of the magnets dictates this. This causes current to flow first in one direction originating from the North Pole windings as the rotor with the magnets rotates then the current alternates or changes directions as the north pole magnets fly past the horizontal coils.. Your mistakes by observation - you are testing your coils individually when they should be paired - top with bottom, side to side. All the four coils with eight terminals should be wired to give you two terminals - live and neutral for alternating current (AC). The strength of your magnets matters. The RPM matters Note: The generator is your microwave coils at the front with the transformer core. What you have at the back is your motor receiving power from the generator. Your setup is incomplete.
As I've seen in the original Liberty,he had 2 magnets on top of eachother i belive the pulley,or the rotor how you call it,it was far bigger then yours , he also claimed to be made from silver and other materials,he didn't say for sure what material used for it,but he said more silver in it. Also you should wire up that beast and see if it works. I cant wait to see someone who managed to copy that liberty engine. That would save many people!
Omul, a reprodus cât se poate de corect, mai puțin partea cu magneții, dar nu asta e cauza. E distanță prea mare, de la 7V la 230. Magnetul ar produce tensiunea de chiar 230V, dacă ar fi cât miezul de lat și turația potrivită , respectiv 1500 de ture, corespunzător celor 4 poli. Concluzia e că nu va funcționa , să pui și aur ! Trebuie ca la antrenarea rotorului, să participe și reactiva, nu să-l frâneze la apropierea magnetului de miezul bobinei. Eu am obținut acest efect de mărire a vitezei de rotație la adăugarea de sarcină, dar tot nu e clar dacă e real benefic.
Good afternoon friend, your coil base seems to be solid, it has to be the same as the transformer or laminated. If your rotor is made of 304 stainless steel it will help with the power. You used 12 n52 magnets. 3 per cavity. This way it has a better chance of working. Good luck, I'm in the crowd.
The feedback was from the motor to the coils, in 3 phases. Also thier claim was the aluminum and silver alloy reduced eddy currents, your rotor is pure aluminum. So, tweaking that, and feeding it through a microwave transformer was their design. So unplug it from the wall, feedback the input to the output and 3 phrase the coils, with silver aluminum composite. To be 1 to 1 in the build.
I see something. The copper windings are too far from the magnet 🧲. The lines of magnetic force are weak that far away. Not enough strength to make much voltage. If you look at any regular generator, the iron core inside the winding is not much past the copper, maybe a quarter inch, where you have two inches. I think this is why you're getting such low voltage. If you can get the copper a lot closer to the magnet the voltage should come up.
Generátor számítás: N=összes menet, B= indukció=T=Tesla,L=vezető hosszúsága, v=sebesség. Tehát N*B*L*v, Itt a vezető hosszúsága az amit a mágnes 90° metsz, a számításnál egy palástfelülettel kell számolni,(D*pi*L) , tehát a mágneseknek ezt a felületet kell befogniuk. A te készülékednél a felület vagyis a palást csak kb. 0.01*pi*L, hiába. nagyobb a forgórész átmérője, keresztmetszete a màgnesek által határolt palástfelület csak 0.01*pi*L Feltételezve a méretezést a számítás a következő: N=400, az indukció 0.94T, a mágnes hosszúsága kb. 50mm, a palástfelülete 0.01*pi*L, a v=sebesség, a sebességet a fordulatszámból számítható ki:pl. (1500/60)*2=50Hz. A 2 a póluspárok száma. A kiszámított feszültség , kb. 29.845 /4=7.46V. Hogy nagyobb feszültséget kapjál a mágneseknek a palásthoz viszonyított méretét kell növelni. A forgórész kerületét négy részre kell osztani, és így kapod meg kb. mágnesek által behatárolt felületet. Célszerű az alumínium helyett lemezből készíteni a forgórészt, lehetőleg dinamó, vagy transzformátor lemezből, ragasztóval összeragasztva. Vagy olyan .méretű màgneseket választani ami az adott palástfelületnek megfelel. RL energetika.
its a scam, go to the new 3.0 liberty and check the video of construction! A wire under the table is the secret! 15:28 He lifts the engine! And 15:32 he put it down again! But the camera had moved a little if you check right corner the polish machine label now completlely shown! Thats why he needed to drill the table and put the wire in the black plug underneeth the "machine"!
Buenos días amigos yo también quiero hacer un prototipo igual al liberty engine pero soy de escaso recurso yo me e puesto a pensar y analizar este sistema y funciona con un motor que hace la función de un generador y los imanes del rotor es para dar el impulso magnéticamente y mantener el giro gracias a la repulsión de l campo Magnetico y para mí debe ser a si el funcionamiento mi nombre es Richard Sánchez soy de Venezuela
perhaps your magnets need to be closer to the coil inside an ac motor the magnets are considerably close I personally would start there I don't believe the protrusion of Iron helps but it helps in keeping the coil in place .
try to put magnet to the center of winding instead of alloy. make it around 5mm near each other. its magnet to magnet. modified by putting a running capacitor. if the temperature of the rotor exceed to 80 centigrade adjust it to 10mm. it may damage your magnet. or put a cooling fan.
O circuito tem que ser replicado, as medidas parecem estar diferentes do exemplo base, e talvez possa haver segredo na quantidade de imãs no rotor magnético. Podem ter imãs fundidos sob o alumínio. Pois enfatizaram que o segredo está no rotor. Já vi outras réplicas dando bons resultados de geração, embora não colocados para funcionar autônomos.
Maybe the magnets are too weak. Additionally the weight of the rotor might be an issue. The other rotor has 7.6 kg. I would finish the wiring First, because their might be backfeeding and resonating effects between the motor and the microwave coils. Good work, btw. I like your design.
The magnets are for rotating the motor the motor then should put out the electricity for consumption. Your doing it backwards the 7 volts is for mopower for the free spinning. (Again) magnets spin motor for free. Motor makes electricity to use.
The rotor had to be made at least of material which is not magnetic (aluminum). If steel is used the magnetic field strength is dissipated in the rotor itself. Secondly if you want to mimic the liberty engine a minimum of 3xN35 placed on top of each other had to be used if not N52’s. Lastly you got to make sure that for this kind of setup a 2 pole motor having a series run capacitor motor of around 2800rpm is used. Lastly good luck i hope you succeed.
I used aluminium for the rotor. I used a 1400rpm motor as per the original video. My magnets are 60x10x5 and have 2 ontop of each other. I chose n52 as the original video suggested.
@@Watchman-Eze33 That’s great however the only option you’re left trying is to use a 2800rpm 2-pole with series capcitor motor. May I withdraw ypur attention that the one used in the libert engine video is an ‘SEMKH 71-2C’
Ok add more magnet and make sure you put them to the rotating pulley N S pole your result will be greater I did mine one at first I was getting 20v AC and I continued until it gives me 220v
The coils not for generating power. It’s electro magnetic. In the back side you have installed normal motor. You should install turbine instead of motor
Have you check the polarity of each coil? In order to connect them there should be a opposing polarity on each coil. Connect them properly to produce a continuous cycle of magnetism (north and south pole) on the core which the coil is placed. Use a compass to determine the polarity of each coil. Then you can proceed with your experiment. Good luck
Це ж саме хотів написати, про те що в даній конструкції від котушок не ідуть провода, але я не написав би так грамотно як це зробили ви тому що я 0 в електротехніці, ну гаразд, трішечки більше нуля. А автор відео на правильному шляху, нехай він досягне мети 🙏
@wurgervomlichtenmoor5073 Yes, I tinker with many different things, but certainly not a specialist. I like to be more eclectic instead of being compartmentalised into a box. These types of devices don't need to be reinvented because with so many different names, there must be many different inventors. This fact brings up many more questions.
@@1800imawakeI have also done a lot but never found a motor or generator or any conversion of a form of energy into electrical energy whose efficiency is greater than 100%. And it is nothing else than a coupling of the two things whereby the design of the generators is often also technically bad.
Please move your coils to the edge of the cores as close as possible to the rotor, you will get more voltage but not nearly close to 110V which is what you should get per coil to then connect it is series to get the 230V the liberty guys claims. I think one should place 8 magnets which is in four pairs with the pairs the same distance apart as the width of the coils.
Can yall learn some basic math and ohm law as well as thermodynamics. This is embarrassing. It doesn't work, it can't work... unless you've cracked room temperature super conductors. Anyways, I have a bridge to sell.
@mehranqadri is right. You're testing the voltage in the wrong spot. Open up the black box on top of the engine and that's where you will find the 230V. The 7V you're testing from the coils is just the electrical current that makes them magnetic and creates the fields
hes got the motor plugged into the mains...of course he will see 230v, the problem appears to be a lack of overall voltage to run the motor off the coils
more people did this replica and got the same result. the original video is a scam and thats it. maybe there is a way for free energy but its not it. i was very curious about any video of the liberty engine. thank you, my friend.
The club weighs 7.6 kg because 81% is silver and 19% aluminum Aluminum has a conductivity of almost 40. Silver has a conductivity of almost 70. A pure aluminum core cannot generate the magnetic field to achieve these values
Is it solid aluminum? They had 6 smaller magnets in each row 3 on top of each other. Maybe need to stack a couple more magnets in each row. Now they did say the rotor was an aloy of silver, aluminum and other metals. Said if it wasn't that it wouldn't work right. But I don't know why it wouldn't. I think you need more rare earth magnets.
I mean, I just saw this video and have no idea what this thing is, some people were talking about free energy, not sure I want to comment on that... but for regular generators you want to make sure that the magnetic field of your stator array, that is driving your central rotor, is properly synchronized with the rotor. (If there is no modulation of the field you will have improper function) With something like this you might want to have 3phase ac and switch the 'plus' configuration of stator electromagnets to a hexagonal one to utilize max power of the 120 degree phase offset.
You are doing it wrong! Your magnets same poles facing the coils. There's no way that device would not function if it's done correctly. Even by turning it with your hands visible voltage supposed to be generated.
People like you and I, we never know if we are watching a video released by an honest person who is having honest trouble, or if the video is one released by a person trying to spread misinformation. I now know how to make one work. Do you? It's not this model. But I know how to do it with 2 ac motors.
The original device is not a scam, per say, but it most likely works with the law of intent ( the observer creating the outcome ) rather than pure 3D laws of physics.
You're smart enough to know that 4D physics could solve this, unfortunately too dumb to know the energy needed to break the barrier, it becomes a negative sum. Trust me, if myself and the boys at Perimeter couldn't figure it out, buddy in his shed has half a chance. Lots of different energy scavaging effects can give you free energy today. Like run a IC engine on the principal of magnetically constrained plasma field collapse in a vaccum. That can be done in a home shop. Or super simple, take 2 40gal air tanks, link them and fill one half with water and pull a vaccum, burry the other in the dirt and leave one in the sun. (Best run in group of 4 with a flip/flop piping.) Have a air turbine in the middle. The vaccum lowers the boil point and tada its a steam turbine at room temp using the temp difference between the ground and air. Works reverse in cold climates. guys we can have free energy any time we want. My whole property runs on random contraptions like I just outlined. Anyways if liberty was real the inventor would not be on this earth if he tells you how it works or not, if you get my drift.
Yes the Liberty Engine is a scam....I built the other engine with the asynchoronous 3 phase and 2 microwave transformers with no moving parts and couldn't get any voltage. It was much easier to build than this one.
Please follow these recomendations: Magnets must not be hudden into rotor. Connect in parallel a coil and his opposite What material was used to build the rotor? Must be alluminum 7075 Please try to do these changes and try again, good lock!!!
Another thing I ser wrong is the armature is shorted out, remember the excitation principle, magnets excite coils trough core, core makes the enviroment to excite the coils. Try to check signal with scope, must be sine wave
I would add 4 more coils to fill in the space a bit and get more of the magnetic field being generated, then put them in a series and maybe throw in some caps for dis charging
The rotor made with 304 stainless steel is diamagnetic, meaning it doesn't attract magnets. I think that's the key to this problem, which they don't reveal.
The coil are distant from the magnets. They need to be closer to the magnets. Because they have not returnin path for magnetic flow. You have cut them. The rotor needs to have more magnet in it.
the trick is in the alloy of the rotor, it must be argaliumalpha what they stated, its dialectric metal that provides sinewave oscillation which makes is generate excessive amounts of power
The power output from the coils will not be enough to run the motor when you take off the supply, try to do it other side, replace the motor with a generator of similar size and let the power output to energize the coils and if work, you can hook some loads to the generator
The coil core is just a block of steel? Massive eddy currents basically absorbing energy. Move the coil closer to the rotating magnetic field, they are miles away. This alternator looks neat, but it's a wonderful example of what not to do.
Well, nice building skills. First magnets and coils must be in close proximity to have higher B. Second magnetic field must "cut" coil at 90 degree as in E=B*l*v*sin (angle). Core is used, usually to increase inductivity of the coil and tend to close magnetic field into itself. I guess that is the reason for low voltage. So to improve design increase rotating speed, and put coils and magnets as closer as you can. Use bigger N52 magnets and stronger. Avoid Aluminium in rotor to avoid Eddy currents. Last one is use oscilloscope to see what is happening and wawe shape and timings. Cheers.
@@jamesdean5418 Yea, imagine similar design not vaste magnetic force. One magnet drive 3 coils, left, right and top. Left and right coils wounded CW and CCW to eliminate cogging. Similar to Adams motor/generator. Cheers.
First the the coils of a micro oven are sometimes made of aluminium and not copper, they are painted red to simulate copper, aluminium does not perform as well, second the coils on the metal core are too far from the magnets , and third, not enough coils ? 4 coils no ! minimum 8 coils , you can put 2 coils per core, and more magnets on the rotor. And considering coils, more wire more voltage, bigger wire more amps, more speed more everything.
You are correct about the composition of the wire. I did a similar setup with both the primary and secondary on the core, I got 10v on the primary but got 120v on the secondary which would mean that the quality of the wire on the primary was of far lesser quality than on the secondary. In some parts of the world some devices are just built better , I will be getting pure copper magnet wire and re winding the primary.
I did 2 years of DC and AC machines in college, basically learning everything about motors and generators. If the homemade part of this is supposed to be a generator, it has terrible magnetics. Those steel blocks inside the coild will experience huge iron losses (eddy current losses) because they should be a proper magnetic metal in laminations (like the stuff you had in the microwave overn transformer). The magnets are too small for a 2 pole generator they should be making up most of that rotor. The rotor itself should probably be laminated, or at least have reduced total metal content. The flux return paths are basically non existent, the flux should go from magnet, through the coil pole, around the external frame and back into the next coil pole. Magnetic flux paths should be circular. You could buy and off the shelf AC or DC generator that has 50 times the efficiency and output of this homemade one. Why bother with a homemade one?
The number of magnets is not like the original n52, it has 5 pairs one after the other but there I see the magnets have only one, there is no force to generate
well i tell you 2 things increase your coild to 8 and put larger and more magnets so try 1 inch wide magnets and covering the total lenngth of the rotor , the voltage will go up , you wire each 2 coils in series . good luck
Since 15 years, I have been dealing with angular energy electricity generation systems (R&D). My positive designs about angular continue. In this regard, my own financial means are insufficient, I had meetings with many businessmen, they accepted the financing of the project, but they gave up when it came to signing a protocol, that is, when it came to formalisation. If there is an entrepreneur who will take firm steps with me on this path, who is idealistic, has financial means and wants to make an official protocol, I would like to meet. 98% of the published videos are wrong and do not work. I know the mistake they all make.
You've not taken note of the workings... The Liberty Engine doesn't run on electricity it makes it through the motor/generator attached. As for some of these people on here.. the silver aluminum mix is to keep the Eddy currents down to zero. One guy on here said it'd make it higher that's backwards! He also stated it'd be a crazy amount of money. It's not a 50/50 roll stock it's a silver infused aluminum stock. The silver also helps magnify the magnets as does the charge from the generator linked to the copper coils. Surely you can look at your contraption and see you are not finished. I'm building one.. I'm not saying I've tested this but I am saying youre not done and you have some things wrong. I wouldn't buy a silver/aluminum mix stock till I finished with what you have. It seems to me with the epoxy working the aluminum will as well. Try contacting the copper coils in line like the video and connect them to your motor, put some kind of rope to be able to pull the motor fast enough to get it started working and like on the video let it get up to speed then test it. I recommend you be very careful as it should be high voltage. Don't forget to use a switch to be able to cut off the power from the coils to the motor. Good luck hope it works.. because I want mine to work!
Determine first if its AC or DC current. The fact that you can touch the leads on the transformers suggests DC. If that's the case you will never generate enough power to run the motor in loop. You need a rectifier And super capacitors. The capacitor (like a rechargeable battery) will be charged by the 7.33 volt DC transformer in just a few seconds and dump high voltage AC back into the motor to run it. 4 transformers, 4 capacitors and a rectifier. It needs to be regulated by sequence to stay running.
have you tried to get the generator to spin with the magnet motor? that is the purpose of the PMM. you don't need to make 220 volts to power the generator. you need the rpms correctly with the ability to give it more power under load. If you REALLY want more electricity from the magnet motor, then more windings, more magnets? if that rotor is metal it's eating the magentism... you could try to use teflon or something for the rotor. But the motor itself just needs to spin the generator at the set RPMs. Fantastic work btw.
I think the rotor and the coils are the motor! And the electric motor will be as the generator. Do you understand my point? I mean everything must be vice versa.
what if you try to connect 2 coil to other coil so it can lift up the voltage ?? cause i think the microwave transformer is to jack up the voltage right ? and i think your magnet is not enough. great job
I connected all 4 coils in series & got voltage of 30V, then connected the motor to the output and used a pullstring to spin it up, had no luck getting it to run.
There is one discrepancy with the original Liberty Engine - there the coils are placed in a Ш-shaped magnetic conduit - there is a much greater concentration of the magnetic field towards the coil!
Las bobinas de microondas tienen que estar conectadas a las bobinas del motor, así forma una bobina más grande. El capacitor es clave en el proceso y no creo tanto en eso de la aleación, solo con aluminio debería funcionar igual tal vez un poco menos eficaz.
Good afternoon, I modified a 150 amp alternator from a Ford Fusion with a rotor made of common iron and it got 48 volts and 30 amps, with a 30x10x05 neodymium magnet. In other words, yours was supposed to be stronger because it used a microwave transformer.
But I see the problem in you if you want to make a coil that produces 230 volts you made 😂😂 Listen to who invented this idea. Liberty Engine is very smart because he did not disclose some of the materials manufactured in this innovation only the hardworking people left it The first material helps the magnet to cause a high magnetic induction process and the second material is a secret
Ребята всем привет из россии. А вам не кажется что изобретатель liberty нам всем вешает лапшу на уши, мне кажется что нет никакого супер сплава ротора, это обычный технический алюминий, а напряжение он берет из спрятаных проводов под двигателем. Приведу вам пример, где другой его генератор от автомобиля где он протачивает ротор и делает туда вставыш якобы из сплава серебра и алюминия... но ведь у него есть первый прототип где он так же вырезал болгаркой внутренности ротора и изолентой приклеивал магниты и заливал эпоксидной смолой , и без всяких супер сплавов из алюминия и серебра у него выдовало теже киловаты эгергии!!! Я сегодня посмотрев его первые видео где он взял два магнита от динамиков, взял полипропиленовую трубу, намотал на трубу 32 оборота медной проволки, поместил на трубку с намоткой магниты , подключил к намотке лампочку на 220 вольт и она у него загорелась достаточно ярко. Так вот я в точности проделал его эксперемент и результат нулевой😢. Моё мнение это мошенник который собирает просмотры на ютуб ради выгоды и хочиь получить золотую кнопку😮. Так что делайте выводы ребята!
I think the magnets on the rotor are spaced too far apart. And they are alternating north, south, north ? I would start by looking at the 7.4v on a scope! Seems the wave will be very strange
i don't understand, what did you expect to get. you have little coils being excited with some magnets and you are generating electricity. you can increase the efficiency by minimizing the gap between the magnets and the coil cores. you can use heavier gauge wire in your coils for more current. you can increase the number of your coil loops for more voltage. you have made a decent experiment for using power to make less power which is exactly what should have been expected as you have all that loss among other things due to heat and noise (vibration).
you are doing nothing wrong, the level of your engineering skills is over the top, using a grinding disk for a spacer shows the genius you already are. If you persist long enough you will find a solution to this conundrum. Great work by the way man.
Bonjour
Félicitations pour la réplique de votre Liberty engine, je le trouve bien conçu.
Monsieur, toutes les informations que je vous livre ici sont confirmés par le créateur du liberty engine
Je suis membre de sa chaîne hidden technologie et j'ai donc accès à ses vidéos privées. J'ai également pu communiquer avec lui dans les commentaires.
Je suis une des rares personnes à qui il a répondu que j'étais sur la bonne voie.
Le créateur est très précis dans ce qu'il dit.
Le rotor est principalement fait d'argent et d'aluminium, plus d'autres matériaux dans une moindre mesure. Il ne donne pas l'alliage exact du rotor mais il donne énormément d'indices intéressants.
L'alliage est protégé par brevet, à nous de le trouver
Vous indiquez que votre rotor est en aluminium. Ça ne peut pas fonctionner, vous allez comprendre pourquoi :
La fonction principale de l'alliage du rotor et de renvoyer vers les bobines les courants magnétiques qui généreraient le freinage. La puissance est augmentée puisque les courants magnétiques sont plus forts
Le rotor est diamagnétique
Le diamagnétisme est un comportement des matériaux, lorsqu'ils sont soumis à un champ magnétique, a créé une aimantation opposée au champ extérieur, et donc à engendrer un champ magnétique opposé au champ extérieur.
L'argent est diamagnétique, c'est ce qui m'a mis sur la voie
Donc le rotor est principalement fait d'argent et d'aluminium, plus deux ou trois des matériaux suivants
Les matériaux diamagnétiques :
Bismuth. -16,6×10-⁵
Carbone (diamant). -2,1×10-⁵
Carbone (graphite). -1,6×10-⁵
Cuivre -1,0×10-⁵
Plomb. -1,8×10-⁵
Mercure. -2,9×10-⁵
Argent. -2,6×10-⁵
Les aimants du rotor sont réglés sur une configuration du réseau de albach.
Un réseau de albach est une disposition particulière d aiment permanent qui accroît le champ magnétique d'un côté tout en éliminant presque totalement le champ magnétique de l'autre côté.
Il est très important d'utiliser un oscilloscope.
Il semblerait que si un alternateur alimente le moteur à courant alternatif alors ; l'alternateur et le moteur doit être synchronisé par onde sinuosïdal afin qu'il se complète et ne se "battent" pas l'un contre l'autre.
Le créateur dit bien qu'il faut respecter le diamètre du rotor qui est de 133 mm. Il fait 7 kg 600. Les aimants font 34 mm de longueur , 12 mm de largeur pour 3,5 mm d'épaisseur. Il y en a 6 par rainure, donc 24 au total
Je pense commencer à en construire un d'ici 6 mois à 9 mois
Je vais utiliser 70 % entre l'argent et l'aluminium, en privilégiant l'argent.
Pour les autres matériaux bismuth en premier, c'est le matériau le plus diamagnétique. Je pense également au mercure, dur à trouver. Et peut-être du carbone (diamant).
J'espère que tous ces éléments peuvent vous aider. Je peux vous envoyer sur votre boîte mail toutes les captures d'écran que j'ai pu faire sur les commentaires ainsi que les réponses du créateur.
Bravo et bon courage, on réussi en faisant des erreurs
El peso del rotor
Es ranurado
O sin ranura
@@norbertosilva2433le rotor fait 7,6 kg avec les aimants.
Le rotor est fabriqué maison, coulé dans un four à induction avec contrôle de la température de chauffe et de refroidissement.
Les aimants néodyme font 34 mm de long, 12 mm de largeur et 3,5 mm d épaisseur ( on les trouvent pas dans le commerce, faut les faire fabriquer) il y en a 6 par rainure donc 24 au total.
السلام عليكم اخي هل من الممكن ان نصنع القرص الدوار من الخشب مثلا ؟ وبهذا قد تخلصنا من تأثير أيدي المغناطيس ارجو الرد تحياتي لك
Bonjour
Non, un rotor en bois ne marchera pas. Il faut comprendre que le rotor repousse le chant magnétique vers les bobines, cela permet d augmenter la puissance puisque les courants magnétiques sont plus fort sur les bobines.
Les courants magnétiques ne traversent pas le rotor, donc il n' y a plus de freinage et le moteur qui entraîne le rotor consomme très peu d énergie.
Un rotor en bois ne renverra pas les courants magnétiques vers les bobines.
Salutations à vous
@@alanfaugeras2536 ولكن هناك شخص على اليوتيوب استعمل الخشب ونجحت الفكرة وسوف ارسل لك سكرين شوت تحياتي لك
What are you doing???... Those coils are not for producing electricity, but rather they are used for producing magnetic field to keep the fly wheel running. That fly wheel is connected to generator. Once the generator is started, it'll give electricity to these microwave coils as well as to other devices. That's the whole process of the liberty engines.
Try clockwise
No it's not...notice the motor is behind the fly wheel and there are output points for each coil around seemingly iron and a magnet for each coil...the flywheel isn't aligned positive to negative on the flywheel. It's opposite. To output electricity. I can make a generator so I know
The thing that spins the flywheel is attached to the impeller and the core.. that's what's turning it. The stator inside it's housing
What is it ac....lol it's converted using magnetic induction...it's dc. AC in the housing.
It's gonna measure a voltage no matter what...but it's not alternating... it's a constant flow measurable by wire wrap volume and field strength frictioning
Thank you for the simulation quality.
I will point out the shortcomings of this simulation based on what I know about Freedom Engine 2.0.
1. The alloy must be made from the same materials used to manufacture the rotor of the Liberty Engine.
2. The alloy must be of the same diameter as mentioned.
3. An array of magnets must be used to strengthen the magnetic field as much as possible, making sure it is the same width as the rotor.
4. The engine must rotate at a speed of 1400 rpm and this is a prerequisite for achieving proper synchronization.
In addition to all this, I believe that there are many secrets of Freedom Engine 2.0 that have not been revealed. Perhaps you have seen the latest model that operates without a rotating part. Although its idea seems possible from a physical standpoint, it raises many questions.
Thank You.
BS, Kalid, don't be sucked in. They don't have a magic formula.
❤
I'm so glad I found this. I built my own as well, my rotor was made from poured epoxy into a 3d printed mold that held the magnets in place. Once fully assembled, I got the exact same results as you - 7-8 volts per transformer. I thought it was because of my design choices, but it looks like you did it differently and got the same results as me. I'm thinking scam.
In one of the comments, one person gave me some excellent info on the rotor. As I understand it, the magic is all in the rotor. The rotor need to be made of a diamagnetic material, for example a mix of silver and bismuth. Aluminium is paramagnetic and thus will not work. I'll have to do some experimentation and research on the % of the mix to make a new rotor. I'll also upgrade my magnets to 70x20x10 N52 on the next one I'll make.
Bro,... for real? now is the time you realise that😑😑😑, it's a scam!!! Why does everyone fall for that?!? It's the law of physics, you clearly haven't read that!
No material can give you more than the input you gave to the material.
You can view an oscillating object for example.
When that object is released, why do you think the object stops moving left to right or back and forth instead of moving forever?
Loss of energy man!!! Never fall for this kinds of free energy bullshits.
@@Watchman-Eze33 THat is all BS. You can get the exact ratio of silver and aluminum and it would cost about $5000 for the rotor alone. Silver is higher conductivity so higher eddy currents. This is a scam
You don’t get the voltage from the transformers. If you look at the original design it’s from the terminal box on top of the motor. The motor is acting as a generator.
I could be wrong but those coils dont supply the power. They act as electro magnets to leep the device spinning. The power is generated by the motor the flywheel is attached to.
That is the point. The alternator gives excitation current to the coils which spins to keep the alternator going, at the same time, alternator gives out the energy to be utilised.
Nu are importanță prea mare locul bobinei pe miez, ci mai degrabă e greșit ales magnetul, care trebuie neapărat să fie cât lățimea miezului de tole pe care e băgat bobina. Un magnet îngust, nu poate crea o amplitudine mare , dacă miezul e mult mai lat , așa cum se vede în imagini. Eu nu cred în „vrăjeala” cu miezul din amestec de argint, deși un prieten mi-a descris niște motoare cu așa miezuri, folosite în domeniul extracției de petrol. Dacă poți, refă rotorul , montând pe el magneți lați cât miezul bobinelor, și groși, pentru a fi puternici. La o turație de 1500 de ture, fiecare bobină ar trebui să producă o tensiune aproape de 220-230V (pentru că aici vor fi 50Hz) , și curentul pe care-l poate da sârma , miezul și magnetul. Așa se pot lega bobinele în paralel pentru a spori intensitatea curentului, sau serie și paralel, pentru a le spori pe ambele dacă e nevoie.
Thanks for the info, it all makes sence. I will look at getting larger magnets.
After reading some of the comments, there is 2 i really like. Move the coils closer to the rotor and use a oscilloscope to measure the output. Looking at those coils in my opinion they should easily put out 100+ volts
Remember the cores need to have time to produce and reverse core flux so use test equipment like an Oscilloscope to see whats happening.
It won't work man, enerygy is always lost man, you can't get more than the input you've given. it's just the law of physics everyone keeps engoring!!!
When you wire them in series and use a diod to get negative and positive. Voltage will multiple and then use a cap according to the voltage obtained ( magnet should be the same width of coils center. My generates 74.5 dc volt. Excellent to charge my 48v lithium batteries but I also used an mppt solar charger controller.
Hi Joe, would by possible to contact you for more informations please ?
I did the same creatiin as you and got out same voltage aroung 7v each so if i to conect each coil together i would have got output around 20v which is not enough to give the power back to the motor not even to have left to power other equipment, greate work thank you for confirming my experiment. You did nothing wrong i did the exact same thing, but as tou know the magician never reveal the secret 😅
Thanks for your comment, I thought to share my findings so the truth about this can come out.
@@Watchman-Eze33 did you see the comment where someone lists the original motor as being 2800rpm..?? if true its a poor show on the liberty team... but more speed may be key
❤❤❤ Can't wait to see the this work. 😊😊😊😊
I think your magnets are too small in relation to your coils. The magnets should be almost as wide as the coils for best output. Awesome machining skills tho. This really looks good. I think the liberty is a fake but I believe the motor/energizer idea from Bedini is a good way to go and you have a good start with your machine.
I also suspect the magnets to be an issue. My intend with this built was to prove the "Liberty Engine" consept to be true or false.
@@Watchman-Eze33 If you improve the motor part then I think you can get it to turn. I am interested in seeing how this works for you.
The wire is too thick. The more turns in the coil, the higher the voltage. ie: the longer the wire passing through the magnetic field, the higher the voltage.
@unicornadrian1358 coils are same used in original video microwaves coils.....and anything else
@@MrBesmir7 in that case, the first video was nonsense.
Basically ... You're only checking the coils.
Total is around 28 the rest of the voltage comes from the motor... The coil creates electric magnetic energy. Coils are not the full energy provider because their separate to help the router spin so it can power up the motor so it can create energy
Дукую! Гарна робота. Повне розвінчання шахраїв.
The motionless version is better though using resonating Mot cores each end of a set of stator coils. The stator coils produce multicoil current some of which supplies the MOT cores and useful excess power!!!!!!
Greetings sir, you are not wrong when you say that the project is a scam. Well, I made the same thing a little more rustic, and the voltage was the same as the Sullo, then I changed the position of the coils, I put them closest to the rotor and My voltage went up to 55.8, I will continue exploring,===== Saludos señor, usted no se equivoca al decir que el proyecto es una estafa, Pues Yo ise lo mismo un poco mas rustico, y el voltaje me dio igual al Sullo, después cambie de posición las bobinas , las puse lo mas próximo al rotor y me subió el voltaje a 55. 8 , seguiré explorando ,
Hi Watchman2021....kudu's for trying....the magnets might be N52's but is to little flux to energize your coils to produce the expected volts. Also, the coil's wire you used it to thick for high voltage. (That Liberty machine is a scam as is but have huge potential as I will explain)....that coils you used is for high current usage and thus your low voltage output. I suggest you use about 0,5 mm copper wire in conjunction with that size coil wire in parallel with each other....in other words....wind another coil with 0,5 mm wire to take up all the space between the excising coil and the rotor, but wire it in parallel. That will give you much higher voltage and the microwave coil will give you the current.
Your magnets are far to small...they need to be as wide as the transformer center you used. Also, pls use a piece of metal at the back of the magnet as it cause the magnets to have better flux density on the other surface. Think about speaker magnets that has a back plate....you remove that back plate and the ceramic ring magnet all of a sudden has far less attractive or repulsive power.
It goes without saying that you must have all the coils in series as to add the voltage and currents available. In addition to that I have build mine with 8 microwave oven transformers. All at 45 degrees with 8 magnets. The voltage output is not good with just 4 transformers.....has a sine wave then flat for 45 degrees....but with 8 TR's the sine wave is much better....not perfect but huge improvement...Magnet size is 50x25x15 neodymium which give far more flux density then the thin little one.....But its important to use 2 coils per transformer.....one for voltage and on for current. Mine works well....good luck bro!!
Thanks for the info & suggestions. I will investigate these in time to come.
If I may ask, how much voltage does yours produce in the setting/configuration you have mentioned above bro? Been trying to figure this out without luck
What is the speed of the motor? and the size of the magnet?
The magnetic permeability of the metal core you use? That core doesn't seem to be the original microwave transformer core. It looks like solid steel.
Try to move the coil closer to the magnet. I think you get low voltage because of a couple of things: the coil is too far in; motor speed sounds slow; magnetic strength?; and perhaps number of turns is low; may be the cores you used too.
you did a great job by the way. Looks very nice.
The motor is 1400rpm as per the original video. I used 4 x 900w microwave transformers, I only sanded the cores to look clean, but they are genuine. Moving the coils closer makes no difference, I tried it also.
@@Watchman-Eze33 Low voltage means a weak magnetic field to the wire (this can be weak magnets or poor permeability). You said you use the original core so what is left is not enough magnetic force. The second reason is the number of turns too small.
Do this experiment: Get another microwave transformer and take out the part like you did; put the same coil and core and run 120 volts or 220 volts, whatever voltage you use. Get a gause meter and check the magnetic strength at the core. Once you know the number, check if you get the same with the rotor in your generator. That will give you an idea if you have enough magnetic strength. You will need more than what you measured out of the experiment.
@@Watchman-Eze33 the motor should be 3000rpm
I built mine just recently. I connected the coils in series and was getting a total of 25v ac. I used the old washing machine motor ( universal motor) and was powering it from a 12v dc car battery.
I know that the difference in the results I am getting is lies in the electrical/ electronics connection of the output coils. I believe that with more probe, it will be unraveled. The liberty engine producers are yet to inform people of the way the output coils are connected essentially. How did they treat back emf? The drive motor has to speed faster.
Let us have a little patience. It must be cracked. Let us all continue with the experimentation. There is hope.
1. You have mounted your windings and transformer core in a + sign right? The top and bottom windings and core take a North pole status. The horizontal ones - south pole. The mounting of the magnets dictates this. This causes current to flow first in one direction originating from the North Pole windings as the rotor with the magnets rotates then the current alternates or changes directions as the north pole magnets fly past the horizontal coils..
Your mistakes by observation - you are testing your coils individually when they should be paired - top with bottom, side to side. All the four coils with eight terminals should be wired to give you two terminals - live and neutral for alternating current (AC).
The strength of your magnets matters.
The RPM matters
Note: The generator is your microwave coils at the front with the transformer core. What you have at the back is your motor receiving power from the generator.
Your setup is incomplete.
As I've seen in the original Liberty,he had 2 magnets on top of eachother i belive the pulley,or the rotor how you call it,it was far bigger then yours , he also claimed to be made from silver and other materials,he didn't say for sure what material used for it,but he said more silver in it.
Also you should wire up that beast and see if it works.
I cant wait to see someone who managed to copy that liberty engine.
That would save many people!
Aluminum + Silver supposedly reduce the eddy current. That doesn't help with the voltage. The problem here is the voltage is too low.
your coil is too far from the magnets
Перевод на руский
E un hoț !
Omul, a reprodus cât se poate de corect, mai puțin partea cu magneții, dar nu asta e cauza. E distanță prea mare, de la 7V la 230. Magnetul ar produce tensiunea de chiar 230V, dacă ar fi cât miezul de lat și turația potrivită , respectiv 1500 de ture, corespunzător celor 4 poli. Concluzia e că nu va funcționa , să pui și aur ! Trebuie ca la antrenarea rotorului, să participe și reactiva, nu să-l frâneze la apropierea magnetului de miezul bobinei. Eu am obținut acest efect de mărire a vitezei de rotație la adăugarea de sarcină, dar tot nu e clar dacă e real benefic.
Good afternoon friend, your coil base seems to be solid, it has to be the same as the transformer or laminated. If your rotor is made of 304 stainless steel it will help with the power. You used 12 n52 magnets. 3 per cavity. This way it has a better chance of working. Good luck, I'm in the crowd.
The feedback was from the motor to the coils, in 3 phases.
Also thier claim was the aluminum and silver alloy reduced eddy currents, your rotor is pure aluminum.
So, tweaking that, and feeding it through a microwave transformer was their design.
So unplug it from the wall, feedback the input to the output and 3 phrase the coils, with silver aluminum composite.
To be 1 to 1 in the build.
Note: there are 6 magnets per cavity, giving a total of 24 n52 magnets, the strongest I have ever seen.
I see something. The copper windings are too far from the magnet 🧲. The lines of magnetic force are weak that far away. Not enough strength to make much voltage. If you look at any regular generator, the iron core inside the winding is not much past the copper, maybe a quarter inch, where you have two inches. I think this is why you're getting such low voltage. If you can get the copper a lot closer to the magnet the voltage should come up.
Study implosion, Victor schauburger, clem engine, Donnie watts generator and a cavitation steam turbine, implosion using cavitation= overunity
Thanks for the tip, I'll check it out.
Generátor számítás: N=összes menet, B= indukció=T=Tesla,L=vezető hosszúsága, v=sebesség. Tehát N*B*L*v, Itt a vezető hosszúsága az amit a mágnes 90° metsz, a számításnál egy palástfelülettel kell számolni,(D*pi*L) , tehát a mágneseknek ezt a felületet kell befogniuk. A te készülékednél a felület vagyis a palást csak kb. 0.01*pi*L, hiába. nagyobb a forgórész átmérője, keresztmetszete a màgnesek által határolt palástfelület csak 0.01*pi*L Feltételezve a méretezést a számítás a következő: N=400, az indukció 0.94T, a mágnes hosszúsága kb. 50mm, a palástfelülete 0.01*pi*L, a v=sebesség, a sebességet a fordulatszámból számítható ki:pl. (1500/60)*2=50Hz. A 2 a póluspárok száma. A kiszámított feszültség , kb. 29.845 /4=7.46V. Hogy nagyobb feszültséget kapjál a mágneseknek a palásthoz viszonyított méretét kell növelni. A forgórész kerületét négy részre kell osztani, és így kapod meg kb. mágnesek által behatárolt felületet. Célszerű az alumínium helyett lemezből készíteni a forgórészt, lehetőleg dinamó, vagy transzformátor lemezből, ragasztóval összeragasztva. Vagy olyan .méretű màgneseket választani ami az adott palástfelületnek megfelel. RL energetika.
its a scam, go to the new 3.0 liberty and check the video of construction!
A wire under the table is the secret!
15:28 He lifts the engine! And 15:32 he put it down again! But the camera had moved a little if you check right corner the polish machine label now completlely shown! Thats why he needed to drill the table and put the wire in the black plug underneeth the "machine"!
I looked at the video and I see what you mean. They use camera trickery to make it seem real, but in fact is a scam.
You have to Connect the upper coil with lower one and all together with the Motor Electricity
Buenos días amigos yo también quiero hacer un prototipo igual al liberty engine pero soy de escaso recurso yo me e puesto a pensar y analizar este sistema y funciona con un motor que hace la función de un generador y los imanes del rotor es para dar el impulso magnéticamente y mantener el giro gracias a la repulsión de l campo Magnetico y para mí debe ser a si el funcionamiento mi nombre es Richard Sánchez soy de Venezuela
السلام عليكم اخي ممكن اتواصل معاك
perhaps your magnets need to be closer to the coil inside an ac motor the magnets are considerably close I personally would start there I don't believe the protrusion of Iron helps but it helps in keeping the coil in place .
try to put magnet to the center of winding instead of alloy. make it around 5mm near each other. its magnet to magnet. modified by putting a running capacitor. if the temperature of the rotor exceed to 80 centigrade adjust it to 10mm. it may damage your magnet. or put a cooling fan.
Hätte ich die Zeit,super System
very good effort
O circuito tem que ser replicado, as medidas parecem estar diferentes do exemplo base, e talvez possa haver segredo na quantidade de imãs no rotor magnético. Podem ter imãs fundidos sob o alumínio. Pois enfatizaram que o segredo está no rotor. Já vi outras réplicas dando bons resultados de geração, embora não colocados para funcionar autônomos.
Maybe the magnets are too weak. Additionally the weight of the rotor might be an issue. The other rotor has 7.6 kg. I would finish the wiring First, because their might be backfeeding and resonating effects between the motor and the microwave coils. Good work, btw. I like your design.
the magnets keep the motor turning. when the motor turns without being plugged in to source electricity it makes the power youre looking for.
The magnets are for rotating the motor the motor then should put out the electricity for consumption. Your doing it backwards the 7 volts is for mopower for the free spinning. (Again) magnets spin motor for free. Motor makes electricity to use.
The rotor had to be made at least of material which is not magnetic (aluminum). If steel is used the magnetic field strength is dissipated in the rotor itself. Secondly if you want to mimic the liberty engine a minimum of 3xN35 placed on top of each other had to be used if not N52’s. Lastly you got to make sure that for this kind of setup a 2 pole motor having a series run capacitor motor of around 2800rpm is used.
Lastly good luck i hope you succeed.
I used aluminium for the rotor. I used a 1400rpm motor as per the original video. My magnets are 60x10x5 and have 2 ontop of each other. I chose n52 as the original video suggested.
@@Watchman-Eze33 That’s great however the only option you’re left trying is to use a 2800rpm 2-pole with series capcitor motor.
May I withdraw ypur attention that the one used in the libert engine video is an ‘SEMKH 71-2C’
@@Watchman-Eze33 contrary to popular belief aluminium is actually magnetically reactive 180 out from iron
N52 magnets would be best.
@@EF-Electrics so the original video uses a 2800 rpm motor.....
Ok add more magnet and make sure you put them to the rotating pulley N S pole your result will be greater
I did mine one at first I was getting 20v AC and I continued until it gives me 220v
detail please...... whats youre rotor setup
The coils not for generating power. It’s electro magnetic. In the back side you have installed normal motor. You should install turbine instead of motor
Have you check the polarity of each coil? In order to connect them there should be a opposing polarity on each coil. Connect them properly to produce a continuous cycle of magnetism (north and south pole) on the core which the coil is placed. Use a compass to determine the polarity of each coil. Then you can proceed with your experiment. Good luck
Це ж саме хотів написати, про те що в даній конструкції від котушок не ідуть провода, але я не написав би так грамотно як це зробили ви тому що я 0 в електротехніці, ну гаразд, трішечки більше нуля.
А автор відео на правильному шляху, нехай він досягне мети 🙏
Yes you are doing many things wrong. Watch the original video more carefully. One huge mistake is having to plug it into a power source.
By this response you are showing your misunderstanding of electromagnetism.
Learn some math and this will make sense.
@saleemcarr9501 Maybe my lack of conventional understanding in both electromagnetism and math is precisely why I DO understand this.
@@1800imawake Did you ever work with electro magnetic components?
@wurgervomlichtenmoor5073 Yes, I tinker with many different things, but certainly not a specialist. I like to be more eclectic instead of being compartmentalised into a box. These types of devices don't need to be reinvented because with so many different names, there must be many different inventors. This fact brings up many more questions.
@@1800imawakeI have also done a lot but never found a motor or generator or any conversion of a form of energy into electrical energy whose efficiency is greater than 100%. And it is nothing else than a coupling of the two things whereby the design of the generators is often also technically bad.
Please move your coils to the edge of the cores as close as possible to the rotor, you will get more voltage but not nearly close to 110V which is what you should get per coil to then connect it is series to get the 230V the liberty guys claims. I think one should place 8 magnets which is in four pairs with the pairs the same distance apart as the width of the coils.
Can yall learn some basic math and ohm law as well as thermodynamics. This is embarrassing. It doesn't work, it can't work... unless you've cracked room temperature super conductors. Anyways, I have a bridge to sell.
@mehranqadri is right. You're testing the voltage in the wrong spot. Open up the black box on top of the engine and that's where you will find the 230V. The 7V you're testing from the coils is just the electrical current that makes them magnetic and creates the fields
hes got the motor plugged into the mains...of course he will see 230v, the problem appears to be a lack of overall voltage to run the motor off the coils
Out of curiosity would it change the output if the coils were closer to the magnets? I have not tried this project yet
I was thinking the same thing
Yea, you got it backwards. The microwave coils were switching polls to push the magnets along, turning the motor which the motor made electricity.
more people did this replica and got the same result. the original video is a scam and thats it. maybe there is a way for free energy but its not it. i was very curious about any video of the liberty engine. thank you, my friend.
The club weighs 7.6 kg because 81% is silver and 19% aluminum Aluminum has a conductivity of almost 40. Silver has a conductivity of almost 70. A pure aluminum core cannot generate the magnetic field to achieve these values
М да бред.
А что ты сам не покажешь как это должно работать?
Умник.
Говорить одно а вот как Автор показать другое!
맞아요. 나도 계산해 보니 당신의 계산법이 맞았습니다. 실행을 못하는 이유는 은이 비싸기 때문입니다. 저의 생각과 같은 분을 처음 만났습니다.
@@user-xi5gg6co4k man please translate in Russian language
@@user-xi5gg6co4kAnd he has all the transformers winding in the same direction
how is something supposed to work?
Transformers opposite each other are wire together so two sets of wires are to connect to power board in the end
Is it solid aluminum? They had 6 smaller magnets in each row 3 on top of each other. Maybe need to stack a couple more magnets in each row. Now they did say the rotor was an aloy of silver, aluminum and other metals. Said if it wasn't that it wouldn't work right. But I don't know why it wouldn't. I think you need more rare earth magnets.
I mean, I just saw this video and have no idea what this thing is, some people were talking about free energy, not sure I want to comment on that... but for regular generators you want to make sure that the magnetic field of your stator array, that is driving your central rotor, is properly synchronized with the rotor. (If there is no modulation of the field you will have improper function) With something like this you might want to have 3phase ac and switch the 'plus' configuration of stator electromagnets to a hexagonal one to utilize max power of the 120 degree phase offset.
Nice--- 🤯👀🤔👍
You are doing it wrong! Your magnets same poles facing the coils. There's no way that device would not function if it's done correctly. Even by turning it with your hands visible voltage supposed to be generated.
People like you and I, we never know if we are watching a video released by an honest person who is having honest trouble, or if the video is one released by a person trying to spread misinformation. I now know how to make one work. Do you? It's not this model. But I know how to do it with 2 ac motors.
push your coils closer to the center, see if there is a differance
The original device is not a scam, per say, but it most likely works with the law of intent ( the observer creating the outcome ) rather than pure 3D laws of physics.
My intentions are to make a time machine
But my intent Law's are Broken 💔😢
You're smart enough to know that 4D physics could solve this, unfortunately too dumb to know the energy needed to break the barrier, it becomes a negative sum. Trust me, if myself and the boys at Perimeter couldn't figure it out, buddy in his shed has half a chance. Lots of different energy scavaging effects can give you free energy today. Like run a IC engine on the principal of magnetically constrained plasma field collapse in a vaccum. That can be done in a home shop. Or super simple, take 2 40gal air tanks, link them and fill one half with water and pull a vaccum, burry the other in the dirt and leave one in the sun. (Best run in group of 4 with a flip/flop piping.) Have a air turbine in the middle. The vaccum lowers the boil point and tada its a steam turbine at room temp using the temp difference between the ground and air. Works reverse in cold climates.
guys we can have free energy any time we want. My whole property runs on random contraptions like I just outlined.
Anyways if liberty was real the inventor would not be on this earth if he tells you how it works or not, if you get my drift.
can i get your email id like to talk to you about this and others. @@saleemcarr9501
Yes the Liberty Engine is a scam....I built the other engine with the asynchoronous 3 phase and 2 microwave transformers with no moving parts and couldn't get any voltage. It was much easier to build than this one.
Please follow these recomendations:
Magnets must not be hudden into rotor.
Connect in parallel a coil and his opposite
What material was used to build the rotor? Must be alluminum 7075
Please try to do these changes and try again, good lock!!!
Another thing I ser wrong is the armature is shorted out, remember the excitation principle, magnets excite coils trough core, core makes the enviroment to excite the coils.
Try to check signal with scope, must be sine wave
Can you please answe my question. How much did the rotor weigh?
I would add 4 more coils to fill in the space a bit and get more of the magnetic field being generated, then put them in a series and maybe throw in some caps for dis charging
The rotor made with 304 stainless steel is diamagnetic, meaning it doesn't attract magnets. I think that's the key to this problem, which they don't reveal.
GUYS U ARE GETTING IT ALL WRONG ....THE POWER IS GENERATED BY THE MOTOR NOT THE TRANSFORMATORS
Make sure you have the right coils, there are typically 2, a low voltage and high voltage coil.
220v and 450kv ..... and a small 3v i think, the original engine calls for the 220v coils
The coil are distant from the magnets. They need to be closer to the magnets. Because they have not returnin path for magnetic flow. You have cut them. The rotor needs to have more magnet in it.
Excelent job. 👍
the trick is in the alloy of the rotor, it must be argaliumalpha what they stated, its dialectric metal that provides sinewave oscillation which makes is generate excessive amounts of power
Do you perhaps know the mix of the materials used to make the rotor. I know it has silver, aluminium and perhaps some bismuth?
The power output from the coils will not be enough to run the motor when you take off the supply, try to do it other side, replace the motor with a generator of similar size and let the power output to energize the coils and if work, you can hook some loads to the generator
Bigger and stronger manet.
Wire top and bottom trans formers together and see what you get!! So there pickup transform cores not slotted Hrmm cool
The coil core is just a block of steel? Massive eddy currents basically absorbing energy. Move the coil closer to the rotating magnetic field, they are miles away. This alternator looks neat, but it's a wonderful example of what not to do.
Well, nice building skills. First magnets and coils must be in close proximity to have higher B. Second magnetic field must "cut" coil at 90 degree as in E=B*l*v*sin (angle). Core is used, usually to increase inductivity of the coil and tend to close magnetic field into itself. I guess that is the reason for low voltage. So to improve design increase rotating speed, and put coils and magnets as closer as you can. Use bigger N52 magnets and stronger. Avoid Aluminium in rotor to avoid Eddy currents. Last one is use oscilloscope to see what is happening and wawe shape and timings. Cheers.
interesting...
@@jamesdean5418 Yea, imagine similar design not vaste magnetic force. One magnet drive 3 coils, left, right and top. Left and right coils wounded CW and CCW to eliminate cogging. Similar to Adams motor/generator. Cheers.
First the the coils of a micro oven are sometimes made of aluminium and not copper, they are painted red to simulate copper, aluminium does not perform as well, second the coils on the metal core are too far from the magnets , and third, not enough coils ? 4 coils no ! minimum 8 coils , you can put 2 coils per core, and more magnets on the rotor. And considering coils, more wire more voltage, bigger wire more amps, more speed more everything.
You are correct about the composition of the wire. I did a similar setup with both the primary and secondary on the core, I got 10v on the primary but got 120v on the secondary which would mean that the quality of the wire on the primary was of far lesser quality than on the secondary. In some parts of the world some devices are just built better , I will be getting pure copper magnet wire and re winding the primary.
I did 2 years of DC and AC machines in college, basically learning everything about motors and generators.
If the homemade part of this is supposed to be a generator, it has terrible magnetics. Those steel blocks inside the coild will experience huge iron losses (eddy current losses) because they should be a proper magnetic metal in laminations (like the stuff you had in the microwave overn transformer).
The magnets are too small for a 2 pole generator they should be making up most of that rotor.
The rotor itself should probably be laminated, or at least have reduced total metal content.
The flux return paths are basically non existent, the flux should go from magnet, through the coil pole, around the external frame and back into the next coil pole. Magnetic flux paths should be circular.
You could buy and off the shelf AC or DC generator that has 50 times the efficiency and output of this homemade one. Why bother with a homemade one?
The number of magnets is not like the original n52, it has 5 pairs one after the other but there I see the magnets have only one, there is no force to generate
well i tell you 2 things increase your coild to 8 and put larger and more magnets so try 1 inch wide magnets and covering the total lenngth of the rotor , the voltage will go up , you wire each 2 coils in series . good luck
Since 15 years, I have been dealing with angular energy electricity generation systems (R&D). My positive designs about angular continue. In this regard, my own financial means are insufficient, I had meetings with many businessmen, they accepted the financing of the project, but they gave up when it came to signing a protocol, that is, when it came to formalisation. If there is an entrepreneur who will take firm steps with me on this path, who is idealistic, has financial means and wants to make an official protocol, I would like to meet. 98% of the published videos are wrong and do not work. I know the mistake they all make.
You've not taken note of the workings... The Liberty Engine doesn't run on electricity it makes it through the motor/generator attached. As for some of these people on here.. the silver aluminum mix is to keep the Eddy currents down to zero. One guy on here said it'd make it higher that's backwards! He also stated it'd be a crazy amount of money. It's not a 50/50 roll stock it's a silver infused aluminum stock. The silver also helps magnify the magnets as does the charge from the generator linked to the copper coils. Surely you can look at your contraption and see you are not finished. I'm building one.. I'm not saying I've tested this but I am saying youre not done and you have some things wrong. I wouldn't buy a silver/aluminum mix stock till I finished with what you have. It seems to me with the epoxy working the aluminum will as well. Try contacting the copper coils in line like the video and connect them to your motor, put some kind of rope to be able to pull the motor fast enough to get it started working and like on the video let it get up to speed then test it. I recommend you be very careful as it should be high voltage. Don't forget to use a switch to be able to cut off the power from the coils to the motor. Good luck hope it works.. because I want mine to work!
Determine first if its AC or DC current. The fact that you can touch the leads on the transformers suggests DC. If that's the case you will never generate enough power to run the motor in loop. You need a rectifier And super capacitors. The capacitor (like a rechargeable battery) will be charged by the 7.33 volt DC transformer in just a few seconds and dump high voltage AC back into the motor to run it. 4 transformers, 4 capacitors and a rectifier. It needs to be regulated by sequence to stay running.
To generate AC magnets need to be one pole and next one opposite pole while rotating
have you tried to get the generator to spin with the magnet motor? that is the purpose of the PMM. you don't need to make 220 volts to power the generator. you need the rpms correctly with the ability to give it more power under load. If you REALLY want more electricity from the magnet motor, then more windings, more magnets? if that rotor is metal it's eating the magentism... you could try to use teflon or something for the rotor. But the motor itself just needs to spin the generator at the set RPMs. Fantastic work btw.
I think the rotor and the coils are the motor! And the electric motor will be as the generator. Do you understand my point? I mean everything must be vice versa.
Need to change magnets into wider one same with the stator coil core will increase magnetic flux
Awesome low efficient generator.
Cool, another South African playing. In all these devices there has to be resonance.
You gotta have 3 magnets in contact with your coil...nsn or sns..its to do with the magnetic flux path..
Make sure each prong of your core has a magnet facing it..thats why its not working..
i think the distance beteewn the rotor and the coils, if they are closer, the magnetc field is stronger
what if you try to connect 2 coil to other coil so it can lift up the voltage ?? cause i think the microwave transformer is to jack up the voltage right ? and i think your magnet is not enough. great job
I connected all 4 coils in series & got voltage of 30V, then connected the motor to the output and used a pullstring to spin it up, had no luck getting it to run.
@@Watchman-Eze33Well did you try to connect some load and to measure what is the current(or wattage) on some rpm(~1500rpm)
There is one discrepancy with the original Liberty Engine - there the coils are placed in a Ш-shaped magnetic conduit - there is a much greater concentration of the magnetic field towards the coil!
The coil is far from the magnets, try to bring them closer
Las bobinas de microondas tienen que estar conectadas a las bobinas del motor, así forma una bobina más grande. El capacitor es clave en el proceso y no creo tanto en eso de la aleación, solo con aluminio debería funcionar igual tal vez un poco menos eficaz.
Good afternoon, I modified a 150 amp alternator from a Ford Fusion with a rotor made of common iron and it got 48 volts and 30 amps, with a 30x10x05 neodymium magnet. In other words, yours was supposed to be stronger because it used a microwave transformer.
Uma obs: parece que suas bobinas estão acentada em material maciço ,tem que ser laminado igual as do trafo de microondas.
One note: it appears that your coils are made of solid material, it has to be laminated like the microwave transformer
Thank you for proving what I suspected . . that it's a scam . . there are plenty on CZcams . .
You need to wire them all in parallel first then take you readings
But I see the problem in you if you want to make a coil that produces 230 volts you made 😂😂 Listen to who invented this idea. Liberty Engine is very smart because he did not disclose some of the materials manufactured in this innovation only the hardworking people left it The first material helps the magnet to cause a high magnetic induction process and the second material is a secret
Ребята всем привет из россии. А вам не кажется что изобретатель liberty нам всем вешает лапшу на уши, мне кажется что нет никакого супер сплава ротора, это обычный технический алюминий, а напряжение он берет из спрятаных проводов под двигателем. Приведу вам пример, где другой его генератор от автомобиля где он протачивает ротор и делает туда вставыш якобы из сплава серебра и алюминия... но ведь у него есть первый прототип где он так же вырезал болгаркой внутренности ротора и изолентой приклеивал магниты и заливал эпоксидной смолой , и без всяких супер сплавов из алюминия и серебра у него выдовало теже киловаты эгергии!!! Я сегодня посмотрев его первые видео где он взял два магнита от динамиков, взял полипропиленовую трубу, намотал на трубу 32 оборота медной проволки, поместил на трубку с намоткой магниты , подключил к намотке лампочку на 220 вольт и она у него загорелась достаточно ярко. Так вот я в точности проделал его эксперемент и результат нулевой😢. Моё мнение это мошенник который собирает просмотры на ютуб ради выгоды и хочиь получить золотую кнопку😮. Так что делайте выводы ребята!
I think the magnets on the rotor are spaced too far apart. And they are alternating north, south, north ? I would start by looking at the 7.4v on a scope! Seems the wave will be very strange
i don't understand, what did you expect to get. you have little coils being excited with some magnets and you are generating electricity. you can increase the efficiency by minimizing the gap between the magnets and the coil cores. you can use heavier gauge wire in your coils for more current. you can increase the number of your coil loops for more voltage. you have made a decent experiment for using power to make less power which is exactly what should have been expected as you have all that loss among other things due to heat and noise (vibration).
Did you know that a washer machine water pump can produce 28v
I would turn it into the N machine
Tenta interligar as bobinas para ver se ajuda no campo eletromagnético.