@@ciarfah Indeed! You only need a few layers of lexan and an additional exterior disc that spins. You can use a tiny turbine to spin a much larger disc.
I have carpenter ants, I need to install new roof baffles, I have a rotten kitchen floor. I am here watching this instead. Thanks AvE. Always fascinating videos and lots of knowledge
roof baffles = soffit baffles correct? i just went through that with a low slow hip roof... doing it from the inside sucked something fierce. i was plannign on doing the soffit and fascia anyway (hence the baffles) so i just installed them from the outside... way way easier. air sealing cable penetrations and sealing the drywall to the top plates was also far easier from the exterior fwiw.
the mountain biking industry has been needing this for years. i tried to 3d print a windshield wiper with a servo type doohickey but then you get the wipe showing up in the video. This right here is it, my friend.
Non-theoretical proof Rain-X doesn't do jack for coolant: A while back I put it on one of the two Tormach windows as a test and was exactly the same as the non-Rain-X window.
AvE really is going with the simplest solution that is actually effective. Yes, there are currently some really high tech coatings in existence but they are not really available outside of aerospace defense contracting. There are some hydrophobic coatings that also shed oils with zero friction... they are designed for optical sensors and if the cost comes down touch screen devices. Atm they are expensive and the manufacturing process for applying them is still in the trade secret category. As far as I know they aren't a chemical coating like rainx but are more of a baked on crystalline structure. The ones that actually work really well (like would be useful for what AvE is doing) are still expensive enough processes that even Samsung and Apple aren't using them yet on their flagship phones... and I haven't seen any high end consumer/professional camera lenses using them yet.
Yup. I use RainX for plastic(came out a few years ago; standard RainX isn't silicone but rather ethanol, isopropyl, and acetone, which many a biker that didn't read the bottle has found out is absolutely NOT plastic safe!), probably the exact same stuff I'm sure(just propolyne glycol and water), and it's a MUST HAVE for anyone that rides with a helmet. And, if you don't wear a helmet - WTF is wrong with you?!?!
Nice work, UBF! Spin windows are the best solution to the problem. Only drawback is they can consume a lot of air; for small shops, this can be a significant cost... turns out compressing air isn't free.! If the window is just for eyeballing, put an air control next to the window, turning it on only when needed.
So cool to see you creating such a cool and original part and willing to share it openly for the 3D printer crowd... Normally people cower in the corner covering their parts yelling "fuck off, don't look... This is mine!!!"
I work for National Geographic building custom camera equipment for the photogs. I won't put my email here but if you want to reach out for some advice on this (I work on stuff like this daily) reach out over my instagram @Mechanicalphoto. Looking forward to seeing how this works out. An electrically powered one might be useful to some of our work here at NGM. -Tom
@gareth sinclair Well yeah but, still I'm interested in how he came across such a niche part of engineering, and it doesn't hurt to ask. Also, until I read his comment I hadn't ever heard of this position before, so why not ask about it?
You're a gentleman and a scallop, and I'm sure, a good looking bloke as well. Although.... none of us on the interwebs have seen your face. I think what you're doing, solving probelms and giving back to the community is a great thing! I applaud you, Sir.
For the electric drive I'd use a rig to use rubber hose washers and have some way to apply a constant pressure. Using a hose washer will give you a a damn near universally available part, bigger contact patch and gives you a decent ratio for a little motor to a 58mm filter outer ring. Guesstimate 20mm washer OD vs 60mm filter OD, 7500rpm motor on a 3:1 ratio, so 2500 filter rippems. Add in a little spring tensioner to apply a constant pressure so the drive can handle a bit of wear and to allow for some bearing slop. Could easily use a 555 chinesium motor, they can be had sealed with ball bearings and it would easily drive the assembly even with sealed bearings which is likely what you'd want on the electric drive version. The tension system could use the motor in a slot and use clicky pen springs to apply a constant positive pressure on the drive interface. Not enough to knock things out of line but enough to keep things engaged.
@@GunFunZS I guess I posted from a North American stand point. The hose washers are available at every hardware store. I'd agree on the tolerance but this isn't something where you need tight fits. The difference between washers would be taken out by the springs pressing it into the filter ring. You also still have a larger contact patch because the washer is flat vs convex. Car vs motorcycle tire type of thing.
If the exit for the air was the outer side of the bearing thatd keep fluid out as well, love how this is coming along reminds me of me in the garage when i was growing up making anything for anything just because and it half as working! That is proof of concept
Dispensing the idea of all hydrophobic coatings because you dismissed rain-x would be throwing your baby out with the bathwater. There are plenty of semi-permanent and permanent hydrophobic coatings for various substrates. I know a company in Cannuckistan that would gladly have someone come coat parts for you for free. Silicone is junk, but silica carbide based hydrophobic resins are the bomb. The main reason hydrophobic coatings aren't already used in these purposes is because they labour intensive and difficult to apply in a manner that leaves glass and acrylics optically clear.
Ave, I stay at a camp in the bush in NW Nontario - I decided to catch one of your videos late tonight while the sat connection was speedy tonight, before turning in. Around the 11 minute mark the Cummins diesel to electrocity converter stopped pumping electrons. I grabbed my trusty (thankfully also dusty) headlight and ran through the dark to the gen shed. Upon arrival I flipped the Jerry rigged light switch to turn the fuel pump off and kill the loud diesel machine, swapped the battery, cursed at the black and dicker charger that had stopped pushing ampacity, cursed at the lightning fried control panel, fired er up, flipped a breaker and the lights went back on. Glad you have long videos because I woulda been plum passed out and there's fishermen with CPAP machines up here.
When you're making the battery powered version I'd suggest checking out the brushless racing drone motors. Things run like a hot damn, they're cheap(ish, for the performance) and easy to get.
Thanks for the explanation on Rain-ex, I was one of those dummies wondering. One thing you said in this one made me think of an Applied Science video where Ben was cleaning a glass microscope slide. He said that truly clean glass gladly wets with water and spreads out, but the amount of oil that removes its ability to do that is so minuscule that oil on particles of dust in the air is enough to prevent that. So your explanation works for real life glass which will always have some modicum of oil on it, but not so much for truly clean glass like you get from ultraviolet cleaners in labs.
802 Garage Please be aware that patents do restrict trading in the items or ready made parts or production ready drawings. They also restrict commercial use such as monetized video filming.
the R+D vids are skookum as frig yo, Tried rain hex many moons ago on an older Haas... I think it actually made things way feckin worse. didn't help that we was blasting the lexan with gianormus face mill chips 22 hrs a day, damned near wore right through it in 2 years... ended up fabricobbling tempered glass windows... I quit before those got destroyed, though the wiring harness for the 4th axis got chewed up pretty good too...
I found that the rainx wiper fluid worked surprisingly well when I ran it. Very light effect, since it's watered down, but it's perfect for when you have weather doing things and having instant access to the magic of rainx.
I used to race speedway and we had roll-offs. You could get electric ones you pushed a button on your bars and it wound a new bit of clear plastic in front of your goggles, but you could also get air ones you blew into a hose. Surely you could adapt a motor on one side, a roll of clear plastic on the other, set a timer or have a manual button, push button, roll the dirty bit around, get some new clear plastic in front.
Lose the bearing and rotate the lens inside an Inrunner bldc motor, you can even adjust the rotation speed accurately to control it and being on a magnetic bearing it be silky smooth.
This is a really exciting project! There are so many content creators on CZcams taking major risks running machines with the door open just to get good video.
This wouldn't work well. But theoretically you could get it spinning at just the right speed, such that every frame was taken at the same orientation. 3600rpm for 60 Hz?
GIMME DA SCOPE! Ooops, wrong channel! Looks like it works! Can't wait to see more from this. Much better than the previous design which caused image wobble.
I'm curious Uncle BumbleF... Why not just make the window >2x larger, look through one side, and then just mount a motor in the centre of it? Get it balanced nicely and the motor bearing should handle it for you.
Hey ... Mazak CNC machines have been using the spinning window technology on their integrex machines for years ... The idea of a spinning window for Go-pro's ... What a great application idea ... ;-)
That would require a much larger diameter filter. Hypothetically feasible though. Not sure what the going rate for an 82 or 120 mm UV filter is though.
@@martindinner3621 Put the bearing in the CENTER,not the outside.The marzel -vanes to encapsulate the outer circumference for the turbo effect.Must use a silica-based semi-clear material,not Lexan.
Thanks for the scientific explanation, Rain-X never worked for me but when I started actually reading the application instructions, it specifies that the window needs to be extremely clean. I live on a dirt road in the middle of farm country, so that is never going to happen. 2 most important things I figured out, scrub your glass. I use 0000 steel wool and windex. clean your wiper blades. I have a tool for it now but anytime I get a alcohol wipe at a restaurant, I clean my wiper blades with it. Water sheets right off just like in the TV commercials and all I do is follow their instructions, minus adding their product at the end.
Can't you take video through a tube with active airflow you could even tune the opening to get a laminar flow so any fluid will be pushed away in the line of sight
Why use the big bearing? Mount a larger diameter acrylic sheet straight to the output shaft of the motor and spin it in front of the camera. It would be a larger package, but wouldn't create the washing machine effect seen in the camera shots. The larger diameter acrylic would also mean you would need to have less rotational velocity to get the same force causing the coolant to flow away. If you covered about 3/4 of the diameter of the acrylic circle and shot through the remaining quarter it would give extra time for the coolant to dissipate and possibly lead to an even clearer video.
In the semiconductor field they have to wash silicon wafers off during backgrind and dicing. The water has to have surfactants added (sometimes... depends on the type of silicon and the silicon's sensitivity to electric charge)... and they measure the effective amount of the surfactant present by putting a drop of the water on a glass slide and measuring 'contact angle', which is literally the angle the drop/bubble of water makes with the flat surface the drops placed on. High contact angle = no surfactant... low contact angle = more surfactant present. I think I got that right... going from memory as I left that industry a couple years ago.
i love this channel. have watched hrs and hrs. never have i laughed so hard please keep it going love the Clapped out bridge port. Miss the symphony though.
I have actually looked into using Rain-X on Haas machines. The first problem is that you can't use it on plastic, it eats the surface. There is a marine grade that is plastic safe, but it's not very good. The second problem, is that it just doesn't work. It's fine with clean water, but coolant tears right through it, as was clearly explained. My free solution was to drill out an air siphon style jet nozzle and just blast a high pressure air/mist stream at the window fed with a bucket of distilled water. It wasn't fully clear, but it was good enough to see the parts through.
Ok so in the last three days of watching your videos you’ve referenced people from two of my different past and present hobbies... Battery Mooch and John Grimsmo. I think I’ll stick around lol.
My comment for previous video: "Why not to use regular bearing with inner diameter matching lens needed wide? Remove covers, wash out grease and install circle lens inside (i don't know glue with epoxy or made holder rings on lathe) and voila just direct air flow on separator. Yeah this can be bigger in size but stable and precise." I'm cool huh?
Sort of a neat side effect. that polarized lens spinning could give some cool shots of other polarized materials. I imagine it'd look like they were flashing.
Why not just offset the glass wheel so the hub spins right off the motor, sitting beside the camera? You'd get more fluid throwing velocity since the line of sight would be right near the edge of the wheel. You've kinda got it offset, but you wouldn't have to do the bearing surrounding anything
I was wondering the same. Unless you're trying to to keep the package as compact as possible, or ensure a sealed compartment, it seems mechanically simpler (and would produce higher spin speed/forces) to use a larger clear disk (say, 8") and spin it on an axel at its center, and point the camera aperture betwixt the that center point and the edge.
It looked to me like the fluid was getting moved from the middle of the wheel to the rim. So it's clearest in the middle, not at the edge. At the edge there was a build-up.
If you've ever owned an old VW be it a bus, westi, bug, the cheapest, best inside defrost material to use is pure Ivory soap bar, buff it into the glass. Helped me living in VA and DC during inclement weather.
I reckon take a round disc of glass or plexiglass, mounted to a motor shaft directly, with the camera off center. You could have an o-ring around the camera area set into a groove, that sits against the glass, which will act both as a wiper and a way to prevent schmoo from getting to the camera.
Man, I love Rain-X. The first dozen times or so I used it I thought it was crap but after being forced to use it on a classic truck with no windshield wipers I came to see the light. The trick is to just give them all your money. First apply the regular Rain-X on all the windows. Then start using the Rain-X windshield wiper fluid. Don't forget to use the Rain-X window cleaner. Seriously though, you get enough of that shit on there and you're good to go. Mind you, I live in Western Washington. I know a thing or two about rain and spit. Did you know Seattle is in a partial rain shadow? Some Rain City. Well I'm ain't in no damn rain shadow. Rain-X works great.
Motordrive with O-ring might not achieve the speed necessary to fling the schmoo off the filter. That little motor would have to have an amazing rip'em...
I posted this on the last video too, but what about going back to cutting your own center piece, but cut the center (spinning) piece with angled grooves in it. Then drill a hole from the backside much as you did before to pop the acrylic balls in. Next pressurize the area behind the spinning lens, the air being forced out through the bearing and over those grooves you cut in the center piece would cause the center to rotate, and because of all the airflow no water/shmoo would be able to come in through the bearing and hit the camera lens. By varying the angle of the grooves you cut into the center piece you could also fine tune how much air was required.
I use the Rain-X washer fluid and love it. I don't know what smearing problem you're having, unless you just need to change your wipers. You're not that dim.
If there are no stupid questions but only stupid people. What type of questions do they ask? Wait maybe i got it, they don't ask? Because they're stupid? Great vid as always ;) Edit: Wait, was that a stupid question? Or am i stupid? I'm not sure how i should feel about this. I'm confused now.
I think you're really on something here buddy! Im sure that UV filter is threaded making u able to cut threads into the inner bearing race or print a sleeve with threads so assembly would be a wizbang and now parts are available.
I used a DVD/CD motor and hub from a laptop. The hub that you snap the disk to. And made a polycarb disk the size of a DVD. Motor in an enclosure, little speed testing and it works fine.
Eh, there just isn't anything all that complex about them, as long as the flow path is decent enough for common sense then it just works(and, mind you, many of the flow paths give up some common sense flow efficiency in the name of "looking cool", and even that doesn't hurt their effectiveness; it DOES cause opaque coolants to collect in specific spots though). 'Microfins' were the last(and really only) real 'breakthrough', they're just far too simple devices to find any more meaningful gains.
I hate rain-x as well. Without it I never really use my wipers but with its not raining hard its like you said. Which in the long run you need new wipers sooner because you use them more.
Hi Ave, recently took up surfing and I watch a lot of people using GoPro's in the water and licking the lenses to get the water droplets off. Here's my take on a solution. A rim driven optically clear circular lens similar to what you are doing here but electrically driven. There exists such a thing as a rim thruster that is used in ships on a very large scale but I think this could be miniatureized and applied to this situation. The clear disk would have magnets on the outer rim embedded, applied, glued, mirically attached somehow, and be surrounded by a series of very fine coils operated by brushless motor controller drive electronics. You would be able to spin the lens at high rpm's and also have a magnetic bearing if you worked your angles with the coils and magnets. Just throwing this out there for those who have the money and tools to create such a design...as I don't :( Cheers, John ;)
Drive the whole disc like an in-runner brushless motor. Put the clear disc inside a small frame aluminium and mount very small magnets around the edge of the frame. A groove in both the disc frame and the back plate to house the balls (like a thrust bearing). The three phases (nine coils?) go on the back plate. You might be able to use a standard radio controll brushless speed controller to drive it. The coils should pull the disc against the backplate when operational (a firmware teak or some diodes might be required so it pulls and does't push etc). A bolt on cover holds the edge of the disc tight enough when not operational so that the balls don't fall out. This also makes it easy to put in the balls into the bearing race. The parts can be very light and you should be able to get very high rotation speed. RF shielding need attention though.
Totally plausible idea, but I don't think he wants to put THAT much work into something that can be 90% achieved by much simpler methods. A time-value proposition
All those ideas from the smart arses NEVER WORK. why? They have the word “just” in the question. Why don’t you just Go far away! And they just stand there. See? Because “Just” just doesn’t work. .....usually 🤣.
For the electric drive version, I bet if you found a high RPM outrunner motor, an ESC, a servo tester, and a battery, you could just jam the bell of the motor against the rubber you're thinking of putting on the bearing and get some sort of result. I think most of mine run somewhere in the 20k to 30k RPM range on 12V under no load.
I still don't understand why a central axle isn't the way to go. I know it's good to have the overall package smaller, which is what the outer bearing would allow, but it seems too difficult to make it roll on the outer edge of the lens. It looks like your version works pretty well, but for ultimate cheapness, some small bearings could be used for the central axis, and then it could also be motor driven.
Do like they do on ships. Attach the round surface directly to the motor shaft. No extra bearing needed. Just view through the glass from the side of the motor.
Hey Ave!!! Why don’t you cut the outer bearing race in two, leave a gap between the two half’s and blast compressed air in that gap. It should be more efficient than from the side. I mean, in two, so that you have two rings. Hold the two half’s with bolts together so that the bearingballs don’t fall out. Nice video and I have a good day.
You're making too much work out of a simple design.
Make a Tesla turbine with 2 pieces of glass and use air to spin them. SOLVED
It's just that easy! Do post a link once you've whipped up a prototype.
AvE Would you ask someone to post a prototype of a sandwich? The design is peanuts!
Psst, a Tesla turbine has a shaft running through the middle, which the whole thing this contraption is trying to avoid.
@@ciarfah
Indeed! You only need a few layers of lexan and an additional exterior disc that spins.
You can use a tiny turbine to spin a much larger disc.
@@mrb692
You would use a small turbine to spin a much larger disc.
czcams.com/video/ioOivnmlRUI/video.html
This is going to revolutionize the porn industry.
*RELEASE THE SHMOOOO !!!*
heh, "revolution"-ize
Strangely enough, Porn drives the electronics industry. I'm still shocked they chose VHS over Beta though. It's not like they needed the length.
Total sploosh.
@@JohnDoe-zl6qw LOL
I have carpenter ants, I need to install new roof baffles, I have a rotten kitchen floor. I am here watching this instead. Thanks AvE. Always fascinating videos and lots of knowledge
Priorities
roof baffles = soffit baffles correct? i just went through that with a low slow hip roof... doing it from the inside sucked something fierce. i was plannign on doing the soffit and fascia anyway (hence the baffles) so i just installed them from the outside... way way easier. air sealing cable penetrations and sealing the drywall to the top plates was also far easier from the exterior fwiw.
@Timothy Manley Yes sir, that is correct. Why do you think I'm procrastinating it? Haha!
Joseph Eyster delta dust everything old and new after the job is done!
@insideHARDWARE What is Delta dust?
the mountain biking industry has been needing this for years. i tried to 3d print a windshield wiper with a servo type doohickey but then you get the wipe showing up in the video. This right here is it, my friend.
Non-theoretical proof Rain-X doesn't do jack for coolant: A while back I put it on one of the two Tormach windows as a test and was exactly the same as the non-Rain-X window.
HA! I KNEW IT!
AvE really is going with the simplest solution that is actually effective. Yes, there are currently some really high tech coatings in existence but they are not really available outside of aerospace defense contracting.
There are some hydrophobic coatings that also shed oils with zero friction... they are designed for optical sensors and if the cost comes down touch screen devices. Atm they are expensive and the manufacturing process for applying them is still in the trade secret category. As far as I know they aren't a chemical coating like rainx but are more of a baked on crystalline structure. The ones that actually work really well (like would be useful for what AvE is doing) are still expensive enough processes that even Samsung and Apple aren't using them yet on their flagship phones... and I haven't seen any high end consumer/professional camera lenses using them yet.
Most water based coolants have emulsifiers, which causes all the shmoo to become homogeneous but also causes the coolant to wet easily.
Yeah, Rain-X is USELESS in a Tormach and against coolant -- it can't take surfactants
RainX is just isopropyl, ethanol, and acetone, so it isn't all that surprising that it doesn't work for this use, lol
Is it odd that I get excited for new viewing angles for the empire of dirt?
Probably, because so do I!
It's a partial shop-tour!
I think that's the most I've ever seen of EOD wall space
Normal to me!
Thanks for the chemistry refresher as much as anything else, looking forward to seeing this develop.
Ok... Future man.
Ok past man.
Thank you. from the bottom of my heart, thank you, for not opening this video fetching turds out of a turlet.
I always watch something when I eat. I never saw the rest of that video...
I had to skip past that part, just couldn't watch. I will never look at a pair of tongs the same way, ever again. Lol
Joetechlincolns, agreed *shudders*
it was only second hand food and old tree carcass
@@gldys45 Third hand, once the micros have had their go ;)
Used to use Mr sheen on my motorbike visor. Great in heavy rain and in slush at night. Gave me a fighting chance.
Yup. I use RainX for plastic(came out a few years ago; standard RainX isn't silicone but rather ethanol, isopropyl, and acetone, which many a biker that didn't read the bottle has found out is absolutely NOT plastic safe!), probably the exact same stuff I'm sure(just propolyne glycol and water), and it's a MUST HAVE for anyone that rides with a helmet.
And, if you don't wear a helmet - WTF is wrong with you?!?!
Nice work, UBF! Spin windows are the best solution to the problem. Only drawback is they can consume a lot of air; for small shops, this can be a significant cost... turns out compressing air isn't free.! If the window is just for eyeballing, put an air control next to the window, turning it on only when needed.
Man, if you learned electronics autodidactic, hats off to you. You're more capable than many academic that i know.
Just needs Rain-X
Been watching this guy for a couple weeks now, beginning to think he’s a true genius.
Thanks for the shout out and link I will retern the compliment
I watch these videos every day and the amount this guy knows is amazing. Seriously a genius. I wish I could be even 20% as smart at AvE
What if you just use rain-x as your cutting fluid? 🤔
So cool to see you creating such a cool and original part and willing to share it openly for the 3D printer crowd... Normally people cower in the corner covering their parts yelling "fuck off, don't look... This is mine!!!"
I work for National Geographic building custom camera equipment for the photogs. I won't put my email here but if you want to reach out for some advice on this (I work on stuff like this daily) reach out over my instagram @Mechanicalphoto. Looking forward to seeing how this works out. An electrically powered one might be useful to some of our work here at NGM.
-Tom
Cool thanks Tom!
@@arduinoversusevil2025 Forgot what i was going to ask
@Thomas OBrien As an engineering student who's got a passion for cameras, out of curiosity, how did you get into this line of work?
@@Ian_Wallace. I guess he was a cut above the other students that applied for the job that he applied for.
@gareth sinclair Well yeah but, still I'm interested in how he came across such a niche part of engineering, and it doesn't hurt to ask. Also, until I read his comment I hadn't ever heard of this position before, so why not ask about it?
You're a gentleman and a scallop, and I'm sure, a good looking bloke as well. Although.... none of us on the interwebs have seen your face.
I think what you're doing, solving probelms and giving back to the community is a great thing!
I applaud you, Sir.
I need to start an Amazon store under the name "The Usual Scumbags"
Tymon Scott I’d buy
Lol that’s a good idea get plenty of exposure
Man you make some of the most honest content on CZcams you don’t bullshit around stuff I appreciate your content keep it coming man
For the electric drive I'd use a rig to use rubber hose washers and have some way to apply a constant pressure. Using a hose washer will give you a a damn near universally available part, bigger contact patch and gives you a decent ratio for a little motor to a 58mm filter outer ring. Guesstimate 20mm washer OD vs 60mm filter OD, 7500rpm motor on a 3:1 ratio, so 2500 filter rippems. Add in a little spring tensioner to apply a constant pressure so the drive can handle a bit of wear and to allow for some bearing slop. Could easily use a 555 chinesium motor, they can be had sealed with ball bearings and it would easily drive the assembly even with sealed bearings which is likely what you'd want on the electric drive version. The tension system could use the motor in a slot and use clicky pen springs to apply a constant positive pressure on the drive interface. Not enough to knock things out of line but enough to keep things engaged.
O rings seem more widely available to me. Also more predictably tight tolerances.
@@GunFunZS I guess I posted from a North American stand point. The hose washers are available at every hardware store. I'd agree on the tolerance but this isn't something where you need tight fits. The difference between washers would be taken out by the springs pressing it into the filter ring. You also still have a larger contact patch because the washer is flat vs convex. Car vs motorcycle tire type of thing.
Z M No springs, just an oring that stretches and a solidly affixed motor. Would be beautiful if it works
If the exit for the air was the outer side of the bearing thatd keep fluid out as well, love how this is coming along reminds me of me in the garage when i was growing up making anything for anything just because and it half as working! That is proof of concept
Dispensing the idea of all hydrophobic coatings because you dismissed rain-x would be throwing your baby out with the bathwater. There are plenty of semi-permanent and permanent hydrophobic coatings for various substrates. I know a company in Cannuckistan that would gladly have someone come coat parts for you for free. Silicone is junk, but silica carbide based hydrophobic resins are the bomb. The main reason hydrophobic coatings aren't already used in these purposes is because they labour intensive and difficult to apply in a manner that leaves glass and acrylics optically clear.
Ave, I stay at a camp in the bush in NW Nontario - I decided to catch one of your videos late tonight while the sat connection was speedy tonight, before turning in. Around the 11 minute mark the Cummins diesel to electrocity converter stopped pumping electrons. I grabbed my trusty (thankfully also dusty) headlight and ran through the dark to the gen shed. Upon arrival I flipped the Jerry rigged light switch to turn the fuel pump off and kill the loud diesel machine, swapped the battery, cursed at the black and dicker charger that had stopped pushing ampacity, cursed at the lightning fried control panel, fired er up, flipped a breaker and the lights went back on. Glad you have long videos because I woulda been plum passed out and there's fishermen with CPAP machines up here.
When you're making the battery powered version I'd suggest checking out the brushless racing drone motors. Things run like a hot damn, they're cheap(ish, for the performance) and easy to get.
Thanks for the explanation on Rain-ex, I was one of those dummies wondering.
One thing you said in this one made me think of an Applied Science video where Ben was cleaning a glass microscope slide. He said that truly clean glass gladly wets with water and spreads out, but the amount of oil that removes its ability to do that is so minuscule that oil on particles of dust in the air is enough to prevent that. So your explanation works for real life glass which will always have some modicum of oil on it, but not so much for truly clean glass like you get from ultraviolet cleaners in labs.
The shaving foam method is so much cheaper. I bought two bottles of the stuff
He's off a little actually; not silicone but rather ethanol, isopropyl, and acetone. It still doesn't work for this use case though, lol
@@RyTrapp0it's pile marketing turds with swish of bullshit in a bottle
The Canadian Railroad uses spinning glass on their locomotives in the winter to keep the snow off the windshields.
I first seen this concept used on smaller ships. The sea spray completely overwhelms traditional wipers, but the spinning glass worked wonders.
Really glad you followed up on this! Sure beats paying about 10 grand. Can't wait to see the "final" versions.
802 Garage Please be aware that patents do restrict trading in the items or ready made parts or production ready drawings. They also restrict commercial use such as monetized video filming.
The coolant seems to collect on the edge of the filter collar. Some relief cuts might allow it to fling off.
Or a lens without a lip or the lens itself protruding past it.
I was just thinking the same. Four small slits 90 degrees apart might do the trick.
I agree noticed that myself
“The beauty of the CNC is that it allows you to iterate (fill the scrap bin) quickly.”
"The great thing about CNC is that it'll replicate EVERY. SINGLE. LITTLE. MINUTE. DETAIL that you tell it to..."
These hands come to me in my dreams.
AvE gives Doubleboost a plug, awesome. Big guy still helping the little guy out. Great content knows great content.
the R+D vids are skookum as frig yo, Tried rain hex many moons ago on an older Haas... I think it actually made things way feckin worse. didn't help that we was blasting the lexan with gianormus face mill chips 22 hrs a day, damned near wore right through it in 2 years... ended up fabricobbling tempered glass windows... I quit before those got destroyed, though the wiring harness for the 4th axis got chewed up pretty good too...
spoken like a true canook
@@hijinxignatius nah, Im just real close to canada... and raised by wolfs and sasquatch.
I found that the rainx wiper fluid worked surprisingly well when I ran it. Very light effect, since it's watered down, but it's perfect for when you have weather doing things and having instant access to the magic of rainx.
Ave really needs to set up a fan mail P.O. box. I've got a nice homeless despot apron for the shop
That is EXACTLY why I don't have a "fan mail" P.O. Box.
roasted ooooooof
I used to race speedway and we had roll-offs. You could get electric ones you pushed a button on your bars and it wound a new bit of clear plastic in front of your goggles, but you could also get air ones you blew into a hose. Surely you could adapt a motor on one side, a roll of clear plastic on the other, set a timer or have a manual button, push button, roll the dirty bit around, get some new clear plastic in front.
Lose the bearing and rotate the lens inside an Inrunner bldc motor, you can even adjust the rotation speed accurately to control it and being on a magnetic bearing it be silky smooth.
This is a really exciting project! There are so many content creators on CZcams taking major risks running machines with the door open just to get good video.
Spin the camera, sort out the footage in post. Reference Corridor Digital arrow films.
Spin the friggin planet, sort it out in post...
@@mick7sp would take a heck of an O ring for the friction drive
@@MadnessQuotient Friction is a social construct.
@@mick7sp don't you dare assume my frictional persuasion
This wouldn't work well. But theoretically you could get it spinning at just the right speed, such that every frame was taken at the same orientation. 3600rpm for 60 Hz?
Tickle trunk, now that's a blast from the past
from one bumblefuck to another the word of the day is surfactant
GIMME DA SCOPE! Ooops, wrong channel!
Looks like it works! Can't wait to see more from this. Much better than the previous design which caused image wobble.
I'm curious Uncle BumbleF...
Why not just make the window >2x larger, look through one side, and then just mount a motor in the centre of it?
Get it balanced nicely and the motor bearing should handle it for you.
Or imagine a petri dish with magnets on the outter lip. The glass could be the armature...
👍A larger disc would increase the centrifugal force at a given rpm.
Hey ... Mazak CNC machines have been using the spinning window technology on their integrex machines for years ... The idea of a spinning window for Go-pro's ... What a great application idea ... ;-)
why don't you mount the glass at its center with a small bearing and use the camera off-center?
That would require a much larger diameter filter. Hypothetically feasible though. Not sure what the going rate for an 82 or 120 mm UV filter is though.
@@martindinner3621 Put the bearing in the CENTER,not the outside.The marzel -vanes to encapsulate the outer circumference for the turbo effect.Must use a silica-based semi-clear material,not Lexan.
I'm a mental health therapist and use these videos of turning ideas into reality to keep me sane...or insane...whichever. Thank you.
Rain X has to applied properly to work. It will work but only shortly then you have reapply. So yes you're correct it's very temporary.
Thanks for the scientific explanation, Rain-X never worked for me but when I started actually reading the application instructions, it specifies that the window needs to be extremely clean. I live on a dirt road in the middle of farm country, so that is never going to happen. 2 most important things I figured out, scrub your glass. I use 0000 steel wool and windex. clean your wiper blades. I have a tool for it now but anytime I get a alcohol wipe at a restaurant, I clean my wiper blades with it. Water sheets right off just like in the TV commercials and all I do is follow their instructions, minus adding their product at the end.
Can't you take video through a tube with active airflow you could even tune the opening to get a laminar flow so any fluid will be pushed away in the line of sight
That is actually a really good idea!
Why use the big bearing? Mount a larger diameter acrylic sheet straight to the output shaft of the motor and spin it in front of the camera. It would be a larger package, but wouldn't create the washing machine effect seen in the camera shots. The larger diameter acrylic would also mean you would need to have less rotational velocity to get the same force causing the coolant to flow away. If you covered about 3/4 of the diameter of the acrylic circle and shot through the remaining quarter it would give extra time for the coolant to dissipate and possibly lead to an even clearer video.
I got a question:
When you grabbel the schnoop when working on a doodlydoo how do you prevent a florbing from messing up the dinglebop of the gribber?
Sometimes I have to watch these videos twice because the first time I have pause the video 17 times to google words I’ve never heard
"You gotta build your machines on a streung fendation."
- Chris "AvE" Bumblefuch
In the semiconductor field they have to wash silicon wafers off during backgrind and dicing. The water has to have surfactants added (sometimes... depends on the type of silicon and the silicon's sensitivity to electric charge)... and they measure the effective amount of the surfactant present by putting a drop of the water on a glass slide and measuring 'contact angle', which is literally the angle the drop/bubble of water makes with the flat surface the drops placed on. High contact angle = no surfactant... low contact angle = more surfactant present. I think I got that right... going from memory as I left that industry a couple years ago.
hopefully I can watch this vod without nearly vomiting, got ambushed last time, thanks uncle bumble fork
I’ve seen a rotating windshield with a stationary wiper blade on a ship somewhere in a video.
Threaded adaptor to affix the lens and counter clockwise rotation to keep it threaded. Easier to replace the lenses
Good thinking. I wonder if using polarized filters will cause a strobe effect with it going in and out of phase of polarized light sources.
Thumbs up for using the SJCAM SJ7 Star instead of the ubiquitous GoPro.
From a very happy SJCAM user.
i love this channel. have watched hrs and hrs. never have i laughed so hard please keep it going love the Clapped out bridge port. Miss the symphony though.
I have actually looked into using Rain-X on Haas machines. The first problem is that you can't use it on plastic, it eats the surface. There is a marine grade that is plastic safe, but it's not very good. The second problem, is that it just doesn't work. It's fine with clean water, but coolant tears right through it, as was clearly explained. My free solution was to drill out an air siphon style jet nozzle and just blast a high pressure air/mist stream at the window fed with a bucket of distilled water. It wasn't fully clear, but it was good enough to see the parts through.
i bet you could get some funky footage with a polarized filter and weird light sources
Dang it. I just made a similar comment on another thing. There are no new ideas.
Ok so in the last three days of watching your videos you’ve referenced people from two of my different past and present hobbies... Battery Mooch and John Grimsmo. I think I’ll stick around lol.
if ya don't call this the smoo flinger, idk what life even is
For those playing along, the eleventy thousand dollhairs device is a Schulz Sprayoff Rain Deflector.
My comment for previous video:
"Why not to use regular bearing with inner diameter matching lens needed wide? Remove covers, wash out grease and install circle lens inside (i don't know glue with epoxy or made holder rings on lathe) and voila just direct air flow on separator. Yeah this can be bigger in size but stable and precise."
I'm cool huh?
You just can't beat the old centrifugal force, it will never let you down. Not like that bastard gravity
I mean, it ain't a force... The forces you're dealing with are torque and centripetal force. The fictitious force, centrifugal force, is just inertia.
I put Rain-X on my motorcycle windscreen once. ONCE!
Try doing it to your helmet shield.. One fargen time is all it took to leaen that lesson.
Sort of a neat side effect. that polarized lens spinning could give some cool shots of other polarized materials. I imagine it'd look like they were flashing.
Why not just offset the glass wheel so the hub spins right off the motor, sitting beside the camera? You'd get more fluid throwing velocity since the line of sight would be right near the edge of the wheel. You've kinda got it offset, but you wouldn't have to do the bearing surrounding anything
I was wondering the same. Unless you're trying to to keep the package as compact as possible, or ensure a sealed compartment, it seems mechanically simpler (and would produce higher spin speed/forces) to use a larger clear disk (say, 8") and spin it on an axel at its center, and point the camera aperture betwixt the that center point and the edge.
Under rated comments
It looked to me like the fluid was getting moved from the middle of the wheel to the rim. So it's clearest in the middle, not at the edge. At the edge there was a build-up.
If you've ever owned an old VW be it a bus, westi, bug, the cheapest, best inside defrost material to use is pure Ivory soap bar, buff it into the glass. Helped me living in VA and DC during inclement weather.
Rainx works ok with water the coolant they are using in these machines is not. Even if it did work it would wear off or wash off rather quickly.
I reckon take a round disc of glass or plexiglass, mounted to a motor shaft directly, with the camera off center. You could have an o-ring around the camera area set into a groove, that sits against the glass, which will act both as a wiper and a way to prevent schmoo from getting to the camera.
Rain-X is the wrong product for this application. You need Rain-Y. 😜
Everyone has an angel is what I'm inclined to believe
I dunno, this might need Rain-W
Man, I love Rain-X. The first dozen times or so I used it I thought it was crap but after being forced to use it on a classic truck with no windshield wipers I came to see the light. The trick is to just give them all your money. First apply the regular Rain-X on all the windows. Then start using the Rain-X windshield wiper fluid. Don't forget to use the Rain-X window cleaner. Seriously though, you get enough of that shit on there and you're good to go. Mind you, I live in Western Washington. I know a thing or two about rain and spit. Did you know Seattle is in a partial rain shadow? Some Rain City. Well I'm ain't in no damn rain shadow. Rain-X works great.
Motordrive with O-ring might not achieve the speed necessary to fling the schmoo off the filter. That little motor would have to have an amazing rip'em...
Gregor Shapiro ratios, might just need a bigger/ same diameter drive fly wheel type deal
Dremel motor 😂
First guess would be HobbyKing and use motors intended for drones and such like. Already get powered by lithium battery source.
You can drive it axialy aplying the torque closer to the center of the glass to increase the ratio.
@@josuelservin2409 if you can center the drive on the lense securely since the camera is off set you wouldn't even need the bearing.
I posted this on the last video too, but what about going back to cutting your own center piece, but cut the center (spinning) piece with angled grooves in it. Then drill a hole from the backside much as you did before to pop the acrylic balls in. Next pressurize the area behind the spinning lens, the air being forced out through the bearing and over those grooves you cut in the center piece would cause the center to rotate, and because of all the airflow no water/shmoo would be able to come in through the bearing and hit the camera lens. By varying the angle of the grooves you cut into the center piece you could also fine tune how much air was required.
The Empire of Dirt vil tool ze Verld.
I use the Rain-X washer fluid and love it. I don't know what smearing problem you're having, unless you just need to change your wipers. You're not that dim.
So you used a CNC machine to prototype something to be 3d printed?
To quote my grandfather, " you use what you've got."
The time is ripe for an AVE and Cyntherea colab.
Just flood the whole machine with clear lubricant
LOL!! LOVE IT!!
MrHack4never Haha. Wouldn’t stay clear long though would it
@@brandonb9452 Go on Amazon and order yerself a sarcasm detector and get it installed ASAP. ;-)
@@brandonb9452 Pool filters!!
Matthew Perlman oh yeah that could help
Cool to hear you know about the Grimsmo boys, they're modern legends in the knife crafting world
If there are no stupid questions but only stupid people. What type of questions do they ask?
Wait maybe i got it, they don't ask? Because they're stupid?
Great vid as always ;)
Edit: Wait, was that a stupid question? Or am i stupid? I'm not sure how i should feel about this. I'm confused now.
I think you're really on something here buddy! Im sure that UV filter is threaded making u able to cut threads into the inner bearing race or print a sleeve with threads so assembly would be a wizbang and now parts are available.
Hey Uncle Bumblef$@%
When you go to dinner parties, and people go off about how cool they are... do you feel like you're surrounded by chimps?
Small way to view the world mate. Everyone likes different things and I don't know how that makes anyone more chimp-like :/
I used a DVD/CD motor and hub from a laptop. The hub that you snap the disk to. And made a polycarb disk the size of a DVD. Motor in an enclosure, little speed testing and it works fine.
if AvE went into water cooling blocks etc for computers, the big guys would be worried :)
no
Eh, there just isn't anything all that complex about them, as long as the flow path is decent enough for common sense then it just works(and, mind you, many of the flow paths give up some common sense flow efficiency in the name of "looking cool", and even that doesn't hurt their effectiveness; it DOES cause opaque coolants to collect in specific spots though). 'Microfins' were the last(and really only) real 'breakthrough', they're just far too simple devices to find any more meaningful gains.
I hate rain-x as well. Without it I never really use my wipers but with its not raining hard its like you said. Which in the long run you need new wipers sooner because you use them more.
Thomas Edison said it best. "I did not fail. I just learned 10,000 ways not to make a lightbulb"...
Hi Ave, recently took up surfing and I watch a lot of people using GoPro's in the water and licking the lenses to get the water droplets off. Here's my take on a solution. A rim driven optically clear circular lens similar to what you are doing here but electrically driven. There exists such a thing as a rim thruster that is used in ships on a very large scale but I think this could be miniatureized and applied to this situation. The clear disk would have magnets on the outer rim embedded, applied, glued, mirically attached somehow, and be surrounded by a series of very fine coils operated by brushless motor controller drive electronics. You would be able to spin the lens at high rpm's and also have a magnetic bearing if you worked your angles with the coils and magnets. Just throwing this out there for those who have the money and tools to create such a design...as I don't :( Cheers, John ;)
As usual, real shit gets built on a foundation of trials and errors
Rain-x is real good for getting your windows really clean to start off with so the coolant gunk takes longer to build up. That's... that's 'bout it.
Drive the whole disc like an in-runner brushless motor. Put the clear disc inside a small frame aluminium and mount very small magnets around the edge of the frame. A groove in both the disc frame and the back plate to house the balls (like a thrust bearing). The three phases (nine coils?) go on the back plate. You might be able to use a standard radio controll brushless speed controller to drive it. The coils should pull the disc against the backplate when operational (a firmware teak or some diodes might be required so it pulls and does't push etc). A bolt on cover holds the edge of the disc tight enough when not operational so that the balls don't fall out. This also makes it easy to put in the balls into the bearing race. The parts can be very light and you should be able to get very high rotation speed. RF shielding need attention though.
Totally plausible idea, but I don't think he wants to put THAT much work into something that can be 90% achieved by much simpler methods. A time-value proposition
All those ideas from the smart arses NEVER WORK. why? They have the word “just” in the question. Why don’t you just Go far away! And they just stand there. See? Because “Just” just doesn’t work. .....usually 🤣.
For the electric drive version, I bet if you found a high RPM outrunner motor, an ESC, a servo tester, and a battery, you could just jam the bell of the motor against the rubber you're thinking of putting on the bearing and get some sort of result. I think most of mine run somewhere in the 20k to 30k RPM range on 12V under no load.
Motocross riders world wide need this.
I still don't understand why a central axle isn't the way to go. I know it's good to have the overall package smaller, which is what the outer bearing would allow, but it seems too difficult to make it roll on the outer edge of the lens. It looks like your version works pretty well, but for ultimate cheapness, some small bearings could be used for the central axis, and then it could also be motor driven.
Do like they do on ships. Attach the round surface directly to the motor shaft. No extra bearing needed. Just view through the glass from the side of the motor.
Hey Ave!!! Why don’t you cut the outer bearing race in two, leave a gap between the two half’s and blast compressed air in that gap. It should be more efficient than from the side.
I mean, in two, so that you have two rings. Hold the two half’s with bolts together so that the bearingballs don’t fall out.
Nice video and I have a good day.