I will definitely be giving this a shot on my rough out boots after they get a little more broken in! Thanks yall have really stepped up the game on your videos.
everybody out there, do youselves a favor and listen to me: the wax part is great. They way this guy goes about applying it is way to hard and will give you a spotty (literally) result. Use your heat gun to melt the wax into a bowl of some kind. Double boil it, whatever. Then apply heat to your boots and paint the liquified wax on with a brush. you will get it on much more evenly. Yes, it will clump up a bit so you hit it with the heat gun. The main thing is don't take a big block of beeswax and do it like he does. I also recommend doing the welt first and then working up.
Well stated. This is exactly how I apply BearGuard boot waterproofing. It contains bear fat and bees wax which makes it pretty hard to apply when cool. I'll put the tin in a toaster oven at 250* or so and let it melt down and then maintain the melt using a candle warmer. The wax is usually warm enough to stay melted but not enough to burn your fingers as I like to apply by hand.
Exactly, great comments…. I set the oven to 250 degrees, when I’ve got the boot coated in wax I turn the oven off and toss them in for 10 minutes. When they come out I just do a quick buff. This is how I do my leather mittens for snowboarding, as well as leather boots.
I thought the guys here did great but also had similar concerns and I don’t feel compelled to go out and get a heat gun as I’d have no other use for it. I DO have a candle making kit with beeswax. Could I accomplish the task by heating the leather with a standard hairdryer and rubbing melted wax onto it?
@@katbtrx Yes. I would add: Condition the leather before waxing with some leather conditioner. It's easier to get that conditioner in there, the wax also blocks the conditioner from absorbing in as well.
I'm a former paratrooper and I can tell you we used to do similar with Kiwi wax on our Corcorans. We would brush on the Kiwi with the round brush and then melt it with a lighter. We'd follow that with a buff with a nylon stocking and then "spit shine" with a pad cut from a T shirt slightly dipped in water. Yeah it took hours but when your wearing them and look down and can see your reflection in the toe you know you'll ace inspection! :)
Does the Army still issue black boots to airborne? Sounds like I was in the military long after you, but shining black boots is a big part of enlisted navy shipboard life. I’ve inhaled my share of black shoe polish.
I love how this looks. I think if you used a double boiler to melt the wax then a small paint brush to apply you'd likely get a cleaner application. the heat gun to warm the leather would still be necessary.
@@brianblack546 i use to do the same over oil my redwing logger boots , it would weaken the leather detroriate it , i have up until a few years ago started with the bees wax , it makes the leather stronger and waterproof and shine up easy with a micro fiber cloth , the best thing i have done .
For 25 years I kept my all leather (inside and out) Fabiano mountaineering boots absolutely waterproof with Sno Seal. Just heat them up a bit with a hair dryer and apply to outside including the welt. Never failed me once in creeks, snow, slush or anything wet. Just need a stout pair of goretex gaiters and good to go for days.
I used huberds shoe grease same way you did and the sole literally came undone on my ariats. Contacted ariats and said I shouldn’t use huberds. Only kiwi products. Has this happened to you with sno seal? Or were my boots just lemons?
I used huberds shoe grease same way you did and the sole literally came undone on my ariats. Contacted ariats and said I shouldn’t use huberds. Only kiwi products. Has this happened to you with sno seal? Or were my boots just lemons?
@@davidmartinez1870 if you use any conditioner on a leather midsole it'll eventually soak in and destroy the adhesive connecting the outsole to the midsole. I think that would still happen if you used kiwi products as well and I'm not sure if it'd happen if you used pure beeswax but it probably would
I would love to see a video on care and maintenance in regards to the footbed. I have seen plenty who can maintain there uppers but end up with cracked footbeds requiring rebuilds. There really is a lack of instruction and most of it amounts to put mink oil on it. As a boot manufacturer I would love to see and hear your take on that. Also second the melt it in a metal can, use a horse hair brush 2”. You can also get beeswax in a clearer color if you want it to darken less. The key thing to keep in mind is you really need to give the leather excellent dry time. Be sure to give enough time on a Peet Shoe Dryer and insert a shoe tree and or boot tree to help maintain shape while they cool. Also shy of muck, hiking in wet conditions/shale, or excessive time spent in salt n’snow for hours on end this is of course overkill. However everyone should have one pair of boots that they are willing to put through hell and back and beeswaxing has no substitute! In style forum there is a method called the cranes method of waterproofing. You can get pretty close with Heavy Duty LP with that method too. It takes two heavy coats though. I would put emphasis on the no going back part. Also this erases any chance of a patina usually. Function over form and all that. But for people who want to put on a pair of boots, unload truck loads of soil, hike in shale, mow the lawn, work in the warehouse or construction it will keep your feet dry and your uppers intact. You know it is wearing off when that scuff will no longer rub out and the boot feels dry. I found beeswaxing lasts 6 months to a year. It takes a long time and several coats and lots of buffing but you sure know that you can count on your boots! Lastly for cleaning beeswaxed leather I found no substitute for using a bar of Fieblings Glycerin saddle soap. It sometimes takes up to three 3 coats but when you’ve completely impregnated the wax getting off the old layers can take some time. Be sure to oil the fibers or use Heavy Duty LP for a base coat after though. Those fibers will be dry and prone to abrasion! I had a pair of boots I put through hell doing this until the leather footbed cracked, The uppers still are in amazing shape despite everything they have experienced! They are a permanent color of brown although the pullup effect of the leather was maintained.
The way we used to do it in ROTC is soften a small amount of wax in a dish or paper plate in microwave. Doesn't have to be liquid, just soft. Smear it into the boot with a hot wet rag, just to coating the boot completely. Preheat oven to 150, heat your waxed boot about 3 minutes or until it starts to smell. Don't burn it, it's not a turkey. Buff warm boot with cold wet rag, rubbing in vigorous small circles. You can get a mirror finish with any cheap wax good enough to clearly see your face in the boot.
Very cool. To add, the smell of heated bees wax rocks. I was dabbling in blacksmithing when my mentor used beeswax on a hook I made to change the appearance. He said he loved the smell, I agree. It smells great.
Do yourself a favor and use a hair dryer. I've been using a hair dryer to waterproof my leather for decades. They get plenty hot, and you don't have to worry about burning yourself, burning the leather, harming other materials within the boots (or jacket), or breaking down any glues. Considering the limited amount of surface area on a pair of boots, it adds little time to this process. Beeswax melts at 143-151°F, and a hair dryer easily hits that temperature.
@@snek9353 I can't say that I pay a lot of attention to that in the short term, but I can tell you that in the long term, as I look at them now, my boots are possibly softer as a result. I also have to say that pure beeswax isn't my proofer of choice. I'd go with something like Obenauf's Heavy-Duty LP. Beeswax is a component.
@@snek9353 This is the exact process of hardening leather for armor. It will make your boots very stiff. On the toe and heal probably fine, perhaps prefered. On the rest of the boot that you want to move? You would break it up rather quickly seeing as how the leather is thin unlike armor. So the wax will "work" itself through friction to basically keep itself fluid. The issue I have really is that the leather ends up being harder to dry out on the inside of the boot after you take it off. I feel like you're rotting the boot from the inside out at that point. Does it make the boot last longer because you can only wear it half as often, because of the time it needs to dry between wearing it? If you need extra rugged and extra waterproof at the same time this may be you're only true option. Those conditions would not make any boot last long. Otherwise, I wouldn't recommend this process to boots you wear for everyday normally dry conditions, even if they occasionally stomp through a puddle briefly.
I use a blow dryer to apply wax on my cowboy boots. I've had to reapply it somewhat frequently. Due to the fact that salt and slush in the winter time dissolves the wax coating fairly quickly.
I am organizing plans to get fitted for a pair (likely 2 pair afterwards) it literally requires planning because of where I live. but I am going to love the traveling and I'm confident boots of this caliber are going to serve me well down the road.
I purchased a pair of the 1964 travelers yesterday. I probably won’t be waxing them but after seeing this I am even more excited t get them in a couple months! Will be my third pair of Nicks.
sno seal works great for me one coat is heavy rub in after heating with hair dryer till fully in,then let cool apply light coat and heat again for shine.
Did this but like a few others have said, heat the boot to a decent temperature first,(use common sense and dont burn the leather) then with a brush (used a silicone basting brush) with melted beeswax an apply to warm leather. You will have some clumping and occasional drips but a more uniform coating overall.
I had made a pvc boot dryer with a blow dryer , when i would wax my boots i would heat the boots up from the inside. I would heat them up for 15mins before i added my wax concoctions
It's a bit like TIG or gas welding, isn't it? you heat the base metal (leather), then dip the filler rod (wax) into the base metal, keeping the heat constant and moving on when one area is fused together.
Love the 1964's. Love the bee's wax idea, but love the color of the untreated leather. Great channel. I'm going out west next year, going to pay you a visit. Can't wait.
I'm guessing this would greatly affect the breathability of the leather? Also, it would probably be easier to melt the wax in a double boiler and brush it on.
I think you're right about breath-ability. Also, your method sounds much better. I haven't had good luck with bee's wax for water proofing. It's brittle and tends to break up anywhere there is a great deal of movement. Microcrystaline wax is much better if the goal is strictly to keep water out. The Lone Woodman has a guide to making tin pants where he investigates wax types and that was what he found when applying it to canvas anyways.
@Henry Rs leather is breathable, and waxing/oiling will affect that. Why wax your Gortex boots???? I would recommend Bick 4 or something like that as a preservative. Also, leather oil has been known to hinder Gortex, so I'd be careful with that as well.
By adding the wax wouldn't it block the pours from being able to take in the conditioner as well as not allowing the leather to breathe. Just curious. Thank you.
*Those boots are barely dirty lol 😅! It would be interesting to see you all clean waaaay dirtier boots! Can you do that sometime? You can put them to the rest with your products and anything else you like!*
sno-seal and a hair dryer or any type of lighter has been my go to for past 48 years - much easier than pure beeswax - beware, one caveat is a heavy beeswax or sno-seal will make your boots considerably less breathable if not completely unbreathable
The BEST method to condition and waterproof your boots is to thoroughly clean them with warm water and saddle soap. Allow to air dry overnight without heat. Apply Nicks Leather Oil, then a light coat of Nicks LP. Finish with a coat of Skidmore's Beeswax Waterproofing or Sno-Seal and then melt it in with a hairdryer (much safer for the leather than a heat gun) and rub in by hand while still warm. This is a much easier way than using a block of beeswax. Oil is a superior conditioner to beeswax, which is the best waterproofer, so use both for ultimate boot care.
This was really cool to see done. Along the same lines, I'd love a video showing waxed flesh care and re-waxing since I'm considering my next Nick's purchase already 🤣
Beyond the heat gun. It would be best to heat it up in the microwave or a double boiler and paint it on while heat gunning it at a distance. You'll have alot more control...
Got my urban loggers all wax up now just waiting on my builder pros made to order to come and I’m ready to pull the trigger on the travelers 1964 made to order
I don't know. There are options for high quality leather balms, creams, and neutral polishes that utilize pure beeswax as the primary ingredient. I know, it's not the same as only using beeswax and it's not necessarily the "DIY" method, but it's certainly a lot more efficient and clean while still providing protection from the elements for the leather. Still though I appreciate the video from Nicks and pitching the DIY option. Not necessarily my thing but could still be a fun project for others.
How do you keep water out of the screws on logger boots soles? Or are they sealed tight already. I really want to get a pair from you guys but this is the only thing that is deterring me.
This is gonna sound hokey as shit but since all my boots are black, a few were brown but ended up black, I actually used used diesel oil to waterproof and treat the leather. The used oil was abundant and free, I found that trick out by accident after i tripped on a drip pan and spilled some over the toe of a pair of pac boots I had.
(Recipe Included) - I use a tinning solution on leather. "Tinning"; as in "tin-cloth." Recipes vary a bit. But, in general, all the good tinning recipes have more in common than they do in contrast. If you see a recipe with ingredients like mineral spirits, paint thinner, turpentine, etc...you're looking at a modern "cheater" version that should NEVER be used on leather. I call it a "cheater" recipe because those volatile materials are only there to help the solution cure faster. _Patience is a virtue!_ The recipe I use is measured out by weight (not volume), each ingredient serves a specific purpose, and there are no ingredients added simply to cut corners, cost, hurry the cure or serve as a filler. When I mix this up specifically for leather, it's: 39.5% boiled linseed oil, 59.5% bee's wax, and 1% pine tar (for cloth, reverse the quantities of the B.L.O. and the Wax). DO NOT DO THIS INDOORS!!! That 1% pine tar might only be about a teaspoon's worth (depending on how much tinning solution you mix up), but it is potent and noxious stuff! And, even outdoors, you might get a headache, or even get nauseous from it. Avoid open flames, obviously. As all of these components are HIGHLY flammable! I use an electric hot-plate. Throw the three ingredients into a double-boiler, allow it to liquefy while gently stirring. When it's a uniform liquid, grab a paint brush and apply liberally! You might wonder, "if the pine tar is so horrible to work with, why bother with it at all!?" Well, bee's wax actually evaporates, albeit slowly. Though, it does evaporate faster in high-heat, arid environments, as well as in direct sunlight. Pine tar, when heated up, bonds molecularly to the other two ingredients, greatly inhibiting that evaporation. The boiled linseed oil lends the solution its ability to fill the space between fibers and partially "amberize" (not a real word...I know) into a sort of natural, non-toxic rubber. Though, the bee's wax will keep the cured outcome from resembling rubber, in any way... This stuff goes a looong way. One cup of solution would probably do a couple pairs of boots, and maybe a few pairs of gloves too. Be aware, this stuff reeks like a railroad tie in direct sun at noon, when it's fresh. But, after about a week or so, it will cease to smell like much of anything, maybe retaining a faint whiff of pine tar. At which point it's cured! Any spare solution you have, can be poured into a tin and used as a conditioner; even cold. I guess it makes sense for a person who's never heard of this to ask, "why tinning?" Because it more than doubles the durability of pretty much anything you apply it to (that's largely the linseed oil's contribution), as well as water-proofing it (mainly the wax). It also makes the item flame retardant. Tin-cloth is the original FR gear. And even to say "retardant" isn't doing it full justice. It pretty much will not burn, even if you throw it into a stoked fire. It eventually just sort of hardens and falls apart. But you'll be waiting quite a while for that to happen! heh... The last quality it adds to whatever you apply it to...I'm not really sure how best to describe. It coats the fibers and seals them. Once it cures, it will need to be warmed up (like with a heat-gun) in order to apply more. Dirt can't cling to the fibers, in the same way teflon-coated fabrics repel dirt. Dirt can ride on top, but it will not tend to work its way into the fibers. A quick brushing cleans things right up! If you have doubts, try this on a scrap piece of leather, or a cheap pair of leather gloves. I take no credit for this recipe, as it's been around for over a thousand year. It's been used on ship's sails, hemp ropes, Egyptian cotton to make rain-gear...pretty much any absorbent-fiber product. Oh, and I almost forgot! This solution was also used on wood too! Bows, tool and weapon hafts, gun stocks, furniture, pretty much anything... High-end gun-makers like Holland & Holland and Mauser still uses it to this day (but, shhh, don't tell. it's a trade-secret!). [WARNING] Pine tar is known to the state of cancer to cause California!
Very cool stuff. But your math's a little wonky. Is it 39.5% linseed oil to 59.5% beeswax, or 29.5% linseed oil to 69.5% beeswax? If I put it on my boots, I'll switch out boiled linseed oil with food grade. If anything in that mix would cause California, I'd think it'd be the boiled linseed oil, since they add toxic substances to it. Steven over on Skillcult felt his chest burn back when he worked with it, and has a video that goes into greater detail. I have no scraps to test it on. Will this solution prevent other leather conditioners from penetrating the leather? Will I even need to use them? More importantly, will there be a need to condition the leather that can no longer be satisfied because the linseed/beeswax solution won't allow conditioner to penetrate?
Isn’t using boiled linseed oil as you say, a “cheater”? I thought that is why you use “boiled” linseed oil, because it “cures” out quicker? That’s just what I was told when I was taught how we used to treat axe handles in the fire service. We used BLO because the regular linseed oil took too long to cure out.
Boiled linseed oil can be had without additives. In fact, most of the BLO you'll find on hardware store shelves is additive-free. That's partly why it's so damn expensive. BLO is a skin irritant (prior to curing), very similar to pure walnut oil. I never claimed otherwise. Regardless, once it does cure it becomes almost inert. And, as for it being a "cheater", it takes _at least_ a week to cure, in warm dry climates. Where I live, in the PNW, it takes closer to three weeks to cure. And keep in mind we're talking about saturated leather or cloth, not a thin layer of oil over wood. Can you add wax or more of the same solution to freshen-up the conditioning? Sure. The fresh wax, BLO, or both, will bond to the cured conditioning. Because it's applied hot, it re-soften it, to some extent. My math was intentionally rough, but not intentionally _WRONG! xD_ I corrected it in my initial comment... In my head it's always 60/40, and a dash of pine tar; season to taste! If I'm making up a large vat of this (over a gallon), to dip a large canvas tarp, or a tent made from high thread-count bed sheets, I might add as much as a 1/2 cup of pine tar. If I'm making up a small batch (a pint or so) to treat a few pair of boots, gloves, mittens, a pair of work pants, etc, I might only use a tablespoon. A little bit goes a very long way! This method of conditioning and waterproofing is ancient; thousands of years old. I certainly didn't invent it! If you don't want to use it, by all means don't. I suggest testing it on scrap materials first, letting it cure, and seeing for yourself if you like it. If you're worried about it irritating your skin (after it's cured), carry the scrap in your pants pocket for a day and see if it starts to sting. You can always chuck it away if it does..
If I clean these with a saddle soap for regular maintenance will it destroy the bees wax? What are the cleaning limitations to this method? I wear mine for work and I rely on them.
With Waxing your boots like this, how often do you need to clean them with saddles soap, and condition them? And after a wash and condition is it recommended to wax them again? Thanks
I think melting the wax in a can or suitable container would be best then use a brush plus a heat gun you should have much more control applying it that way. This should work well on the waxed flesh boots ?
Cool video. I like the natural protection. It looks cool, but I think the physical benefits are more important than the aesthetic. Form should follow function IMO.
I just got my boots in the mail, wondering if the same care goes for roughout leather? Or what to do with roughout leather in the beginning for a long healthy boot life
Oven works, and i found a better option: Food dehydrator! its basically a small low-temp convection oven. I can set temps up to 180F. And the wife doesn't freak lol
Very nice video. This thread is definitely for us folks serious about boot care. I would most appreciate comments and remarks from all readers on the subject of polishing work boots. I condition my boots thoroughly when new, numerous times, with a proven oil. After that, I begin a weekly polishing regimen with just standard polish and buffing, and occasional saddle soap cleaning monthly. I have found over the years that a polished boot is the most waterproof. And, a quick brushing with a soft shoe brush cleans them up instantly. I work construction, and my boots receive heavy wear. Constant layers of polish make them the best looking boots on the job, the easiest to clean, and the most waterproof. I have had boots resoled as many as three times and the cobbler is amazed. Just haven’t come up with ANY way to keep them from getting so dark. Any thoughts from anyone on polish?
Thank you, Brett, for your reply and affirmation. And, as the boots dust and dirty up, they clean so quickly and are brought back to a water resistant shine in just a minute with a soft brush.
After sealing it with beeswax how do you get oil into the boot to keep the leather from drying out? If the boot is sealed with bees wax to keep water out how is it possible for boot oil to bypass the wax and still get into the boot? This is a gimmic that will ruin your boot and you guys should know that. You can't be water proof and oiled at the same time. Seeme like it would be one or the other.
Amazing Craft and Lore. I ordered a veg tan belt and daaaaammmmm good. What can I say about Nicks? The best brand around in the PNW and all the USA for tank boots( work Or heritage)
You should use some saddle soap first to clean it. I don’t think these boots are meant to be shined with regular shoe or boot wax, so I think the bees wax is the way to go.
If it renders the boots waterproof, how can a conditioner get in afterwards? The layer of wax should be a barrier to anything, a conditioner as good as water.
True, it isn't for everyone. I think this is for people in extreme conditions. I have one pair of boots I maintain like this and mostly use for winter. I sometimes will double up on socks to reduce moisture. I use it when dealing with snow sometimes upwards of 8-12 hours a day all season. Road salt is not your friend in that case. I work in a warehouse environment and have been sprayed with chemicals and it protects you from both scrapes of the pallets but also from stains of your boots. When you can wipe something off vs have it penetrate and access your foot/skin it is worth it! For those who baby their boots or want to develop a patina this is not for you though! It also requires you to use a Peet Shoe Dryer and shoe/boot trees afterwards. Bottom line you want not a lick of moisture left since it is unable to dry itself as you said. The leather simply cannot and will not breathe.
Got keen targhee 2 boots size 10 and the last pair lasted almost two years but dryed out and ripped on the left left side and left on one boot and left side of the other boot as well and never put anything on them to keep them from drying out, want to waterproof them even better then they already are and also keep them from drying out but wear them everyday to work in the mud and rain an weedeating grass a good bit what can I do and use to make sure they last this time around lol? Thank you
I might be the minority that I still prefer the untreated boots with all the patinas showing. To me, the beewax treatment changed the look and feel of the 1964 leather.
This was an absolute pain to do. I spend over an hour trying to put beeswax on my boots last night. A pain. And when I thought the was was soaking in, it was just evaporating and I was drying out the leather. BE CAREFUL TRYING TO DO THIS. It can go really south if you don’t do it right. Sadly I have to figure out how to fix my boots now
Yes pre melt the wax, and painted on with a cheap paint brush. I grew up skiing, back in the day ski boots were made of leather, and cable bindings. They used to have a product back then call sno-seal, just a fancy name for paraffin and Beeswax to make a soft paste wax that you would rub on your boots.
I'd be interested to know if the applying of the wax then blocks the leather from taking up the leather oil/preservative? It seems it would to some degree?
Incredible video! I used beeswax all the time to lubricate steam valves on my ship, but never really put two and two together for boots. Big questions: What should be my routine for these boots? Daily cleaning? Weekly oiling/conditioning? Monthly waxing? Do I have to condition before I wax or vice versa (do they effect each other and I should or shouldnt do it at the same time?) I'm basically looking for a practical framework to maintain my boots. Near the end at 10:30 or so, you say that you still use the conditioner and boot oil. Let's just say my job will test "waterproof", and my boots are subject to exhaust dust (nasty stuff), concentrated industrial chemicals, marine environment in general, and it'll have a heap of oil including diesel. So... this time I want my boots to do better this time around. Given the crew size of 22, there is no onboard cobbler... so I gotta be that guy to at least some extent haha. Thanks for making a video like this and helping me become a little more self sufficient out here!
Hey, concerning your questions about boot care, we have a few videos up on our channel specifically outlining how to clean, condition, and take care of your boots
i yuse sno seal also made from beeswax cover and bake in oven at 175 for 15v minutes....remove and repeat the next day...walla darker and waterproof boots...
How long should you wait to do this? I've been wearing my boots for about 2 weeks now. The person I ordered them from told me not to put anything on them until I brake them in. She said not to use the nicks greese until they are broken in because the leather needs to breath to form to my feet. Is this true? I'm worried about them in the rain because they seem to just soak up water like a sponge
See personally I prefer using fat wax 30% tallow 70% beeswax and a hair dryer set to warm inside of the boot. It both waterproofs and conditions the leather. The only problem is if you use cheap tallow it might have an odor so get or make clarified tallow.
Will this method work better than something like Sno-Seal? My concern is preventing damage to the leather from road salt. It's frustrating to want good leather boots, but living in an area where everything is covered in salt in the winter! I tried Sno-Seal, but it didn't seem to work that well.
Who stuck around until the end? 😂
I will definitely be giving this a shot on my rough out boots after they get a little more broken in! Thanks yall have really stepped up the game on your videos.
I’m paused at 9:20. I plan on completing. We shall see.
Well I’m glad I did cause I saw him smell the boot and made me happy I’m not the only one that does that😅
@@SethSmith-jl1pq All the time!
Yeah this will work the same for rough out boots correct?
everybody out there, do youselves a favor and listen to me: the wax part is great. They way this guy goes about applying it is way to hard and will give you a spotty (literally) result. Use your heat gun to melt the wax into a bowl of some kind. Double boil it, whatever. Then apply heat to your boots and paint the liquified wax on with a brush. you will get it on much more evenly. Yes, it will clump up a bit so you hit it with the heat gun. The main thing is don't take a big block of beeswax and do it like he does. I also recommend doing the welt first and then working up.
Well stated. This is exactly how I apply BearGuard boot waterproofing. It contains bear fat and bees wax which makes it pretty hard to apply when cool. I'll put the tin in a toaster oven at 250* or so and let it melt down and then maintain the melt using a candle warmer. The wax is usually warm enough to stay melted but not enough to burn your fingers as I like to apply by hand.
Exactly, great comments…. I set the oven to 250 degrees, when I’ve got the boot coated in wax I turn the oven off and toss them in for 10 minutes. When they come out I just do a quick buff. This is how I do my leather mittens for snowboarding, as well as leather boots.
I thought the guys here did great but also had similar concerns and I don’t feel compelled to go out and get a heat gun as I’d have no other use for it. I DO have a candle making kit with beeswax. Could I accomplish the task by heating the leather with a standard hairdryer and rubbing melted wax onto it?
@@katbtrx Yes.
I would add: Condition the leather before waxing with some leather conditioner. It's easier to get that conditioner in there, the wax also blocks the conditioner from absorbing in as well.
Or just use sno seal if you're lazy like me, it's basically mink oil puls beeswax
I'm a former paratrooper and I can tell you we used to do similar with Kiwi wax on our Corcorans. We would brush on the Kiwi with the round brush and then melt it with a lighter. We'd follow that with a buff with a nylon stocking and then "spit shine" with a pad cut from a T shirt slightly dipped in water. Yeah it took hours but when your wearing them and look down and can see your reflection in the toe you know you'll ace inspection! :)
Amazing.
Totally agree. AATW.
I can smell this comment.
That's how I do it.. it always produces a good shine
Does the Army still issue black boots to airborne? Sounds like I was in the military long after you, but shining black boots is a big part of enlisted navy shipboard life. I’ve inhaled my share of black shoe polish.
I love when craftsmen share and work together. Dont get to see it often in today's society sadly
Gotta love the small business support 👊
I love how this looks. I think if you used a double boiler to melt the wax then a small paint brush to apply you'd likely get a cleaner application. the heat gun to warm the leather would still be necessary.
I really appreciate this. I am a mink oil guy and it’s great to know there’s other options. Thanks.
Nice!
Me too. I over mink oiled my red wings and nearly destroyed them. Happy to see other methods. (I’m a every weekend Square away your equipment guy)
@@brianblack546 i use to do the same over oil my redwing logger boots , it would weaken the leather detroriate it , i have up until a few years ago started with the bees wax , it makes the leather stronger and waterproof and shine up easy with a micro fiber cloth , the best thing i have done .
@@jeffdutcher3676 Thanks, I’ll try bees wax.
For 25 years I kept my all leather (inside and out) Fabiano mountaineering boots absolutely waterproof with Sno Seal. Just heat them up a bit with a hair dryer and apply to outside including the welt. Never failed me once in creeks, snow, slush or anything wet. Just need a stout pair of goretex gaiters and good to go for days.
Thanks for the input!
I used huberds shoe grease same way you did and the sole literally came undone on my ariats. Contacted ariats and said I shouldn’t use huberds. Only kiwi products. Has this happened to you with sno seal? Or were my boots just lemons?
I used huberds shoe grease same way you did and the sole literally came undone on my ariats. Contacted ariats and said I shouldn’t use huberds. Only kiwi products. Has this happened to you with sno seal? Or were my boots just lemons?
@@davidmartinez1870 Sno Seal is literally the safest shoe product made IMHO.
@@davidmartinez1870 if you use any conditioner on a leather midsole it'll eventually soak in and destroy the adhesive connecting the outsole to the midsole. I think that would still happen if you used kiwi products as well and I'm not sure if it'd happen if you used pure beeswax but it probably would
I would love to see a video on care and maintenance in regards to the footbed. I have seen plenty who can maintain there uppers but end up with cracked footbeds requiring rebuilds. There really is a lack of instruction and most of it amounts to put mink oil on it. As a boot manufacturer I would love to see and hear your take on that.
Also second the melt it in a metal can, use a horse hair brush 2”. You can also get beeswax in a clearer color if you want it to darken less. The key thing to keep in mind is you really need to give the leather excellent dry time. Be sure to give enough time on a Peet Shoe Dryer and insert a shoe tree and or boot tree to help maintain shape while they cool.
Also shy of muck, hiking in wet conditions/shale, or excessive time spent in salt n’snow for hours on end this is of course overkill. However everyone should have one pair of boots that they are willing to put through hell and back and beeswaxing has no substitute! In style forum there is a method called the cranes method of waterproofing. You can get pretty close with Heavy Duty LP with that method too. It takes two heavy coats though.
I would put emphasis on the no going back part. Also this erases any chance of a patina usually. Function over form and all that. But for people who want to put on a pair of boots, unload truck loads of soil, hike in shale, mow the lawn, work in the warehouse or construction it will keep your feet dry and your uppers intact. You know it is wearing off when that scuff will no longer rub out and the boot feels dry.
I found beeswaxing lasts 6 months to a year. It takes a long time and several coats and lots of buffing but you sure know that you can count on your boots!
Lastly for cleaning beeswaxed leather I found no substitute for using a bar of Fieblings Glycerin saddle soap. It sometimes takes up to three 3 coats but when you’ve completely impregnated the wax getting off the old layers can take some time. Be sure to oil the fibers or use Heavy Duty LP for a base coat after though. Those fibers will be dry and prone to abrasion! I had a pair of boots I put through hell doing this until the leather footbed cracked, The uppers still are in amazing shape despite everything they have experienced! They are a permanent color of brown although the pullup effect of the leather was maintained.
Lot of good info here. We'll crank some more videos out to answer some of these.
@@nicksboots Sounds good, I very much will look forward to watching those videos.
To remove old wax, put turpentine on a cloth and wipe the boots well. Follow with warm water and saddle soap.
Toooo long....didn't read
The way we used to do it in ROTC is soften a small amount of wax in a dish or paper plate in microwave. Doesn't have to be liquid, just soft. Smear it into the boot with a hot wet rag, just to coating the boot completely. Preheat oven to 150, heat your waxed boot about 3 minutes or until it starts to smell. Don't burn it, it's not a turkey. Buff warm boot with cold wet rag, rubbing in vigorous small circles. You can get a mirror finish with any cheap wax good enough to clearly see your face in the boot.
I've been doing this with a double boiler and painting it on, then follow up with a heat gun. It's a quicker process.
This is exactly what I was thinking
Yes. This is exactly how I wax my suede
Very cool. To add, the smell of heated bees wax rocks. I was dabbling in blacksmithing when my mentor used beeswax on a hook I made to change the appearance. He said he loved the smell, I agree. It smells great.
Do yourself a favor and use a hair dryer. I've been using a hair dryer to waterproof my leather for decades. They get plenty hot, and you don't have to worry about burning yourself, burning the leather, harming other materials within the boots (or jacket), or breaking down any glues. Considering the limited amount of surface area on a pair of boots, it adds little time to this process. Beeswax melts at 143-151°F, and a hair dryer easily hits that temperature.
Great advice! We'll have to try with that!
@@snek9353 I can't say that I pay a lot of attention to that in the short term, but I can tell you that in the long term, as I look at them now, my boots are possibly softer as a result. I also have to say that pure beeswax isn't my proofer of choice. I'd go with something like Obenauf's Heavy-Duty LP. Beeswax is a component.
@@snek9353 This is the exact process of hardening leather for armor. It will make your boots very stiff. On the toe and heal probably fine, perhaps prefered. On the rest of the boot that you want to move? You would break it up rather quickly seeing as how the leather is thin unlike armor. So the wax will "work" itself through friction to basically keep itself fluid. The issue I have really is that the leather ends up being harder to dry out on the inside of the boot after you take it off. I feel like you're rotting the boot from the inside out at that point. Does it make the boot last longer because you can only wear it half as often, because of the time it needs to dry between wearing it? If you need extra rugged and extra waterproof at the same time this may be you're only true option. Those conditions would not make any boot last long. Otherwise, I wouldn't recommend this process to boots you wear for everyday normally dry conditions, even if they occasionally stomp through a puddle briefly.
Bet you guys never thought a boot channel would be so popular! Love the videos
We're just glad to share the boot love.
i use only nicks heavy duty LP and i am pretty pleased with the results..
I started using Fiebings Aussie leather conditioner with Beeswax. Stuff waterproofs your leather, and works like a charm.
I use a blow dryer to apply wax on my cowboy boots. I've had to reapply it somewhat frequently. Due to the fact that salt and slush in the winter time dissolves the wax coating fairly quickly.
I am organizing plans to get fitted for a pair (likely 2 pair afterwards)
it literally requires planning because of where I live. but I am going to love the traveling and I'm confident boots of this caliber are going to serve me well down the road.
I purchased a pair of the 1964 travelers yesterday. I probably won’t be waxing them but after seeing this I am even more excited t get them in a couple months! Will be my third pair of Nicks.
I made my own water resistant leather conditioner. Coconut oil and bee wax.
sno seal works great for me one coat is heavy rub in after heating with hair dryer till fully in,then let cool apply light coat and heat again for shine.
I love the look of those builder pro in that 1964 leather
Sure are nice!
Obenauf's HD LP works great for me!
Did this but like a few others have said, heat the boot to a decent temperature first,(use common sense and dont burn the leather) then with a brush (used a silicone basting brush) with melted beeswax an apply to warm leather. You will have some clumping and occasional drips but a more uniform coating overall.
I have used Filson oil finished wax for 23 years. Goes on easy and conditions and keeps water out. No heat gun required
I had made a pvc boot dryer with a blow dryer , when i would wax my boots i would heat the boots up from the inside. I would heat them up for 15mins before i added my wax concoctions
It's a bit like TIG or gas welding, isn't it? you heat the base metal (leather), then dip the filler rod (wax) into the base metal, keeping the heat constant and moving on when one area is fused together.
Love the 1964's. Love the bee's wax idea, but love the color of the untreated leather. Great channel. I'm going out west next year, going to pay you a visit. Can't wait.
Sounds great! Looking forward to having you out!
I'm guessing this would greatly affect the breathability of the leather? Also, it would probably be easier to melt the wax in a double boiler and brush it on.
I think you're right about breath-ability. Also, your method sounds much better. I haven't had good luck with bee's wax for water proofing. It's brittle and tends to break up anywhere there is a great deal of movement. Microcrystaline wax is much better if the goal is strictly to keep water out. The Lone Woodman has a guide to making tin pants where he investigates wax types and that was what he found when applying it to canvas anyways.
Was thinking the same , I just use nikwax myself
@Henry Rs leather is breathable, and waxing/oiling will affect that. Why wax your Gortex boots???? I would recommend Bick 4 or something like that as a preservative. Also, leather oil has been known to hinder Gortex, so I'd be careful with that as well.
By adding the wax wouldn't it block the pours from being able to take in the conditioner as well as not allowing the leather to breathe. Just curious. Thank you.
Condition first, then use beeswax to waterproof. Yes, it will block the pores, regardless of what people say.
Grant, you've gotta tell us where that jackets from.
*Those boots are barely dirty lol 😅! It would be interesting to see you all clean waaaay dirtier boots! Can you do that sometime? You can put them to the rest with your products and anything else you like!*
Love the beeswax. We use it for a lot of stuff and it’s awesome. Blessing.
I'd just warm.melt it in a can and apply with a half inch brush. Probably a bit more consistent coverage.
sno-seal and a hair dryer or any type of lighter has been my go to for past 48 years - much easier than pure beeswax - beware, one caveat is a heavy beeswax or sno-seal will make your boots considerably less breathable if not completely unbreathable
The BEST method to condition and waterproof your boots is to thoroughly clean them with warm water and saddle soap. Allow to air dry overnight without heat. Apply Nicks Leather Oil, then a light coat of Nicks LP. Finish with a coat of Skidmore's Beeswax Waterproofing or Sno-Seal and then melt it in with a hairdryer (much safer for the leather than a heat gun) and rub in by hand while still warm. This is a much easier way than using a block of beeswax. Oil is a superior conditioner to beeswax, which is the best waterproofer, so use both for ultimate boot care.
This was really cool to see done. Along the same lines, I'd love a video showing waxed flesh care and re-waxing since I'm considering my next Nick's purchase already 🤣
Sure thing!
Yes, my waxed flesh urban loggers should be coming soon!!!
@@patrickwallen5065 natural or brown?
@@estark1991 brown
@@patrickwallen5065 that is such a beautiful leather I have a pair of charleys coming in that color
The boys 🤘
Gotta love it!
Beyond the heat gun. It would be best to heat it up in the microwave or a double boiler and paint it on while heat gunning it at a distance. You'll have alot more control...
Pro trick heat the wax up in a coffee can or pan and use a small paint brush
🧐 ...genius...
Coffee cans are mDe of plastic these days...
GOOD STUFF. Just ordered my beeswax! Craft and Lore site looks high quality -- love the boots! -- though I already have most of those needs filled.
Awesome stuff !!! 🤟🏼👏 I’ll be ready now to take my boots to work lol and not worry too much of getting them covered in water
Oh yeah!
Got my urban loggers all wax up now just waiting on my builder pros made to order to come and I’m ready to pull the trigger on the travelers 1964 made to order
I don't know. There are options for high quality leather balms, creams, and neutral polishes that utilize pure beeswax as the primary ingredient. I know, it's not the same as only using beeswax and it's not necessarily the "DIY" method, but it's certainly a lot more efficient and clean while still providing protection from the elements for the leather. Still though I appreciate the video from Nicks and pitching the DIY option. Not necessarily my thing but could still be a fun project for others.
What I wanna know is the jacket Grant wears. Badass
Yup. Wax them. I prefer to use only beeswax. Never dries out. Never gets crackly. Melt it in and enjoy the waterproofing.
How do you keep water out of the screws on logger boots soles? Or are they sealed tight already. I really want to get a pair from you guys but this is the only thing that is deterring me.
They are tightly sealed
I'm curious where OP got his jacket from?
Good one guys.. do you know of a workaround to waterproofing your tan boots without darkening the leather?
Same way we have applied snow seal for over 20 years
This is gonna sound hokey as shit but since all my boots are black, a few were brown but ended up black, I actually used used diesel oil to waterproof and treat the leather. The used oil was abundant and free, I found that trick out by accident after i tripped on a drip pan and spilled some over the toe of a pair of pac boots I had.
(Recipe Included) - I use a tinning solution on leather. "Tinning"; as in "tin-cloth." Recipes vary a bit. But, in general, all the good tinning recipes have more in common than they do in contrast. If you see a recipe with ingredients like mineral spirits, paint thinner, turpentine, etc...you're looking at a modern "cheater" version that should NEVER be used on leather. I call it a "cheater" recipe because those volatile materials are only there to help the solution cure faster. _Patience is a virtue!_
The recipe I use is measured out by weight (not volume), each ingredient serves a specific purpose, and there are no ingredients added simply to cut corners, cost, hurry the cure or serve as a filler. When I mix this up specifically for leather, it's: 39.5% boiled linseed oil, 59.5% bee's wax, and 1% pine tar (for cloth, reverse the quantities of the B.L.O. and the Wax).
DO NOT DO THIS INDOORS!!! That 1% pine tar might only be about a teaspoon's worth (depending on how much tinning solution you mix up), but it is potent and noxious stuff! And, even outdoors, you might get a headache, or even get nauseous from it. Avoid open flames, obviously. As all of these components are HIGHLY flammable! I use an electric hot-plate. Throw the three ingredients into a double-boiler, allow it to liquefy while gently stirring. When it's a uniform liquid, grab a paint brush and apply liberally!
You might wonder, "if the pine tar is so horrible to work with, why bother with it at all!?" Well, bee's wax actually evaporates, albeit slowly. Though, it does evaporate faster in high-heat, arid environments, as well as in direct sunlight. Pine tar, when heated up, bonds molecularly to the other two ingredients, greatly inhibiting that evaporation. The boiled linseed oil lends the solution its ability to fill the space between fibers and partially "amberize" (not a real word...I know) into a sort of natural, non-toxic rubber. Though, the bee's wax will keep the cured outcome from resembling rubber, in any way...
This stuff goes a looong way. One cup of solution would probably do a couple pairs of boots, and maybe a few pairs of gloves too. Be aware, this stuff reeks like a railroad tie in direct sun at noon, when it's fresh. But, after about a week or so, it will cease to smell like much of anything, maybe retaining a faint whiff of pine tar. At which point it's cured! Any spare solution you have, can be poured into a tin and used as a conditioner; even cold.
I guess it makes sense for a person who's never heard of this to ask, "why tinning?" Because it more than doubles the durability of pretty much anything you apply it to (that's largely the linseed oil's contribution), as well as water-proofing it (mainly the wax). It also makes the item flame retardant. Tin-cloth is the original FR gear. And even to say "retardant" isn't doing it full justice. It pretty much will not burn, even if you throw it into a stoked fire. It eventually just sort of hardens and falls apart. But you'll be waiting quite a while for that to happen! heh...
The last quality it adds to whatever you apply it to...I'm not really sure how best to describe. It coats the fibers and seals them. Once it cures, it will need to be warmed up (like with a heat-gun) in order to apply more. Dirt can't cling to the fibers, in the same way teflon-coated fabrics repel dirt. Dirt can ride on top, but it will not tend to work its way into the fibers. A quick brushing cleans things right up!
If you have doubts, try this on a scrap piece of leather, or a cheap pair of leather gloves. I take no credit for this recipe, as it's been around for over a thousand year. It's been used on ship's sails, hemp ropes, Egyptian cotton to make rain-gear...pretty much any absorbent-fiber product. Oh, and I almost forgot! This solution was also used on wood too! Bows, tool and weapon hafts, gun stocks, furniture, pretty much anything... High-end gun-makers like Holland & Holland and Mauser still uses it to this day (but, shhh, don't tell. it's a trade-secret!).
[WARNING] Pine tar is known to the state of cancer to cause California!
Very cool stuff. But your math's a little wonky. Is it 39.5% linseed oil to 59.5% beeswax, or 29.5% linseed oil to 69.5% beeswax?
If I put it on my boots, I'll switch out boiled linseed oil with food grade. If anything in that mix would cause California, I'd think it'd be the boiled linseed oil, since they add toxic substances to it. Steven over on Skillcult felt his chest burn back when he worked with it, and has a video that goes into greater detail.
I have no scraps to test it on. Will this solution prevent other leather conditioners from penetrating the leather? Will I even need to use them? More importantly, will there be a need to condition the leather that can no longer be satisfied because the linseed/beeswax solution won't allow conditioner to penetrate?
@J Hemphill just doesn't sound like a state I would want to live in, especially because the increased risk of California.
@J Hemphill How do all those Prop 64 chemicals cause babies to be born mid summer?
Isn’t using boiled linseed oil as you say, a “cheater”? I thought that is why you use “boiled” linseed oil, because it “cures” out quicker? That’s just what I was told when I was taught how we used to treat axe handles in the fire service. We used BLO because the regular linseed oil took too long to cure out.
Boiled linseed oil can be had without additives. In fact, most of the BLO you'll find on hardware store shelves is additive-free. That's partly why it's so damn expensive.
BLO is a skin irritant (prior to curing), very similar to pure walnut oil. I never claimed otherwise. Regardless, once it does cure it becomes almost inert.
And, as for it being a "cheater", it takes _at least_ a week to cure, in warm dry climates. Where I live, in the PNW, it takes closer to three weeks to cure. And keep in mind we're talking about saturated leather or cloth, not a thin layer of oil over wood.
Can you add wax or more of the same solution to freshen-up the conditioning? Sure. The fresh wax, BLO, or both, will bond to the cured conditioning. Because it's applied hot, it re-soften it, to some extent.
My math was intentionally rough, but not intentionally _WRONG! xD_ I corrected it in my initial comment... In my head it's always 60/40, and a dash of pine tar; season to taste!
If I'm making up a large vat of this (over a gallon), to dip a large canvas tarp, or a tent made from high thread-count bed sheets, I might add as much as a 1/2 cup of pine tar. If I'm making up a small batch (a pint or so) to treat a few pair of boots, gloves, mittens, a pair of work pants, etc, I might only use a tablespoon. A little bit goes a very long way!
This method of conditioning and waterproofing is ancient; thousands of years old. I certainly didn't invent it! If you don't want to use it, by all means don't. I suggest testing it on scrap materials first, letting it cure, and seeing for yourself if you like it. If you're worried about it irritating your skin (after it's cured), carry the scrap in your pants pocket for a day and see if it starts to sting. You can always chuck it away if it does..
Actually just recently discovered Skidmore’s beeswax and they have a good leather water proofing
Made here in my hometown!
Would love to see this done with some roughout boots to see how it changes the look of the leather,
Good idea!
I don't know if you have already done it, but if you haven't make a video showcasing all your leathers and colors.
There is one in the Chanel
Check out "BOOT OPTIONS". We'll have more on this soon!
Sno seal is great stuff
How about putting bees wax on rough out?
I honestly made my own water proofing with my sadly not any Nick handmade boots
If I clean these with a saddle soap for regular maintenance will it destroy the bees wax? What are the cleaning limitations to this method? I wear mine for work and I rely on them.
With Waxing your boots like this, how often do you need to clean them with saddles soap, and condition them? And after a wash and condition is it recommended to wax them again? Thanks
i use a double boiler melt the wax and brush it on with brush then smooth out with rag - no heat gun. 💪
Good video! I have some nice American made boots that I want to try this on. Thank you!
I think melting the wax in a can or suitable container would be best then use a brush plus a heat gun you should have much more control applying it that way.
This should work well on the waxed flesh boots ?
Sorry totally said the same thing before I read the comments
Yes and yes.
@@Allinoffroad No problem friend
I like my old sock and gloves. Little cup on a little hot plate and heat gun.
I’ve done exactly that. Be sure to use a horse hair brush as nylon will melt!
Cool video. I like the natural protection. It looks cool, but I think the physical benefits are more important than the aesthetic. Form should follow function IMO.
Nicks guy is like " yeah you F up a nice boot" 😂
I just got my boots in the mail, wondering if the same care goes for roughout leather? Or what to do with roughout leather in the beginning for a long healthy boot life
Interesting! Have not yet tried my heat gun. I’ve used a very low oven to warm both boots and dressing. I’ll have to grab some beeswax and try this. 👍
Oven works, and i found a better option: Food dehydrator! its basically a small low-temp convection oven. I can set temps up to 180F. And the wife doesn't freak lol
@@BrettMonson91 interesting! My wife has a dehydrator... 🙄
The exact video im looking for, but can i do this on roughout?
Sure can! Just make sure they're clean first!
I wax my roughout boots with neutral shoe polish - I love it. It almost resembles waxed flesh, but the surface is a bit more textured.
I've had best success on rough out with venetian leather balm.
Thanks for sharing!
Very cool video
Glad you enjoyed it
Very nice video. This thread is definitely for us folks serious about boot care.
I would most appreciate comments and remarks from all readers on the subject of polishing work boots.
I condition my boots thoroughly when new, numerous times, with a proven oil. After that, I begin a weekly polishing regimen with just standard polish and buffing, and occasional saddle soap cleaning monthly. I have found over the years that a polished boot is the most waterproof. And, a quick brushing with a soft shoe brush cleans them up instantly. I work construction, and my boots receive heavy wear. Constant layers of polish make them the best looking boots on the job, the easiest to clean, and the most waterproof. I have had boots resoled as many as three times and the cobbler is amazed. Just haven’t come up with ANY way to keep them from getting so dark. Any thoughts from anyone on polish?
Dan, I thought i was the only one that did this! Nylon brush, horsehair brush, polish often. Makes for a great performing boot
Thank you, Brett, for your reply and affirmation. And, as the boots dust and dirty up, they clean so quickly and are brought back to a water resistant shine in just a minute with a soft brush.
I am curious about what style of boots that gentleman brought in? Can anyone help me to figure it out?
After sealing it with beeswax how do you get oil into the boot to keep the leather from drying out? If the boot is sealed with bees wax to keep water out how is it possible for boot oil to bypass the wax and still get into the boot? This is a gimmic that will ruin your boot and you guys should know that. You can't be water proof and oiled at the same time. Seeme like it would be one or the other.
Its definetely a like! Thanks!
Amazing Craft and Lore. I ordered a veg tan belt and daaaaammmmm good.
What can I say about Nicks? The best brand around in the PNW and all the USA for tank boots( work Or heritage)
Thanks for the love!
I was wondering if my Craft and Lore belts could be beat. I love it. I want a new work belt, and am considering another c&l
@@nicksboots you got more than love from this guy. You have his life’s cash!!!! Nobody needs as many Nick’s as he has. Lol
@@gqfiend buddy,! You know me well!😉. Come back to IG,!!!🙏🏻
Thanks!
You should use some saddle soap first to clean it. I don’t think these boots are meant to be shined with regular shoe or boot wax, so I think the bees wax is the way to go.
awesome video
Those boots look really amazing! Are the Traveler Boots made in steel toed?
They can be!
Great Video! Who makes Nathaniel's vest? Very cool!
How long until you need to re-apply? I am from a rainy environment.
If it renders the boots waterproof, how can a conditioner get in afterwards? The layer of wax should be a barrier to anything, a conditioner as good as water.
Conditioners often are fat/oil based, particularly something like obebaufs, so they are soluble in beeswax (both are hydrophobic).
How would the oils get to the leather after applying the wax?
This works great but wax will not allow your leather too breathe anymore clogs up the leather and your feet will sweat even more ...
That's a bit of the tradeoff with waterproof boots. Definitely not for everyone.
True, it isn't for everyone. I think this is for people in extreme conditions. I have one pair of boots I maintain like this and mostly use for winter. I sometimes will double up on socks to reduce moisture. I use it when dealing with snow sometimes upwards of 8-12 hours a day all season. Road salt is not your friend in that case. I work in a warehouse environment and have been sprayed with chemicals and it protects you from both scrapes of the pallets but also from stains of your boots. When you can wipe something off vs have it penetrate and access your foot/skin it is worth it!
For those who baby their boots or want to develop a patina this is not for you though! It also requires you to use a Peet Shoe Dryer and shoe/boot trees afterwards. Bottom line you want not a lick of moisture left since it is unable to dry itself as you said. The leather simply cannot and will not breathe.
Should you apply a wax based product to brand new boots before you even wear them ?
I wish I could get the traveler boots in black with a kletterlift sole for LEO work.
How does this compare to a lazier method like Obenauf's?
Got keen targhee 2 boots size 10 and the last pair lasted almost two years but dryed out and ripped on the left left side and left on one boot and left side of the other boot as well and never put anything on them to keep them from drying out, want to waterproof them even better then they already are and also keep them from drying out but wear them everyday to work in the mud and rain an weedeating grass a good bit what can I do and use to make sure they last this time around lol? Thank you
I might be the minority that I still prefer the untreated boots with all the patinas showing. To me, the beewax treatment changed the look and feel of the 1964 leather.
I'm at about 30-40 hours into breaking my new boots in. Can I add beeswax before the full break-in is complete?
If you heated the beeswax in a pot and bushed it on would it be the same effect?
Maybe, we heat the boot as well for it to "drink it in" better.
If the wax makes it waterproof how does the conditioner reach the leather through the wax?
The conditioner is waxed based as well.
This was an absolute pain to do. I spend over an hour trying to put beeswax on my boots last night. A pain. And when I thought the was was soaking in, it was just evaporating and I was drying out the leather. BE CAREFUL TRYING TO DO THIS. It can go really south if you don’t do it right. Sadly I have to figure out how to fix my boots now
Yes pre melt the wax, and painted on with a cheap paint brush. I grew up skiing, back in the day ski boots were made of leather, and cable bindings. They used to have a product back then call sno-seal, just a fancy name for paraffin and Beeswax to make a soft paste wax that you would rub on your boots.
I'd be interested to know if the applying of the wax then blocks the leather from taking up the leather oil/preservative? It seems it would to some degree?
Incredible video! I used beeswax all the time to lubricate steam valves on my ship, but never really put two and two together for boots.
Big questions: What should be my routine for these boots? Daily cleaning? Weekly oiling/conditioning? Monthly waxing? Do I have to condition before I wax or vice versa (do they effect each other and I should or shouldnt do it at the same time?) I'm basically looking for a practical framework to maintain my boots.
Near the end at 10:30 or so, you say that you still use the conditioner and boot oil. Let's just say my job will test "waterproof", and my boots are subject to exhaust dust (nasty stuff), concentrated industrial chemicals, marine environment in general, and it'll have a heap of oil including diesel. So... this time I want my boots to do better this time around. Given the crew size of 22, there is no onboard cobbler... so I gotta be that guy to at least some extent haha. Thanks for making a video like this and helping me become a little more self sufficient out here!
Hey, concerning your questions about boot care, we have a few videos up on our channel specifically outlining how to clean, condition, and take care of your boots
Does anyone know where he got that vest? I love that vest.
The vest is from LC King down in Tennessee.
@@craftnlore Ooh I should look in on this. It looks great.
i yuse sno seal also made from beeswax cover and bake in oven at 175 for 15v minutes....remove and repeat the next day...walla darker and waterproof boots...
Same process for roughout?
How long should you wait to do this? I've been wearing my boots for about 2 weeks now. The person I ordered them from told me not to put anything on them until I brake them in. She said not to use the nicks greese until they are broken in because the leather needs to breath to form to my feet. Is this true? I'm worried about them in the rain because they seem to just soak up water like a sponge
See personally I prefer using fat wax 30% tallow 70% beeswax and a hair dryer set to warm inside of the boot. It both waterproofs and conditions the leather. The only problem is if you use cheap tallow it might have an odor so get or make clarified tallow.
Does this affect breathability?
Will this method work better than something like Sno-Seal? My concern is preventing damage to the leather from road salt. It's frustrating to want good leather boots, but living in an area where everything is covered in salt in the winter! I tried Sno-Seal, but it didn't seem to work that well.