I really love how you aren't hiding anything that went wrong, and just being brutally honest. Love your boots! I have one pair of Overlanders and am looking at other pairs to order in the future!
I have had very good luck applying hot mink oil on my boots for Minnesota winters. Clean and condition the boots first, heat up mink oil till it turns into a liquid, wipe on evenly and brush into the seams, let dry overnight, brush with a horse hair brush. Beautiful and ultra supple waterproof finish. Just another method folks might find useful. Cheers
Warming the leather before you apply the wax helps… especially if the leather is below 75 degrees. I’ve mostly done waxed Cotten coats (Filson, Orvis) with this process but have found it works good on boots too. I also generally do this maintenance in the summer when the ambient temperature is 80+… it’s much easier than in the winter when the indoor temperature is in the mid 60s.
I’ve never tried straight beeswax….. but I have been putting my boots in the oven to pre-heat then to soak in the grease… Sno seal or Obenaufs…. Worked great for 35 years. Just don’t do it when the oven master is home😱🤷♂️🤣😎👍 love the videos, keep ‘em coming.
First you can buy clear white beeswax. Mask off with blue painters tape the sole. Personally a cheap boot tray works for catching the excess wax dripping down and won't collect near as much on the soles. You can also melt the wax down there and wipe as much possible off with the blue shop towel too. You want to use a horse hair paint brush for the melted wax. Work in sections and as you melt it in take a blue shop towel and wipe the excess off. For the nooks and crannies while it is still soft you can take q-tips to get it out. I did a friend's 875 Red Wing's for him and there is absolutely no residual. After that I take a dedicated horsehair brush and get the excess out off. Melt the boot one last time. Use a shop towel off and install shoe or boot trees and buff it as much as possible. Is it more work? Yes but absolutely worth it. Overall for his 875 each boot with buffing took 45 minutes, I did two coats of beeswax. Two years later and the wax is just now wearing off but they still don't really need done just yet. Definitely the lazy man's way to boot care.
I’ve been doing this for the last thirty years. A couple of tricks I found is to put the boots on a cookie sheet and into the oven. Put the oven on warm, no higher. Warming the boots prior to waxing helps the wax seep into the leather while brushing. After the waxing is complete, put the boots back into the oven. The oven will allow the wax to evenly seep into the leather without burning the boots. I developed this trick when I use to apply a product called Sno-seal to my leather mountaineering boots. The Sno-seal had an unpleasant odor, where the bees wax doesn’t.
@@danielvezza Turn the oven on, ant set the oven to “Warm”, let it come up to temp. Once it is up to temp, put your boots in for 20 to 30 minutes. Pull the boots out and coat with melted wax. Once you have both boots coated, place them back in the oven. Be sure to put the boots on a sheet pan, to collect any wax that drips off. The wax should seep into the leather, in about 15 minutes. Use a clean cloth to wipe the boots.
Hello! Wanted to say, your previous video inspired me to wax all my shoe wear! Results are beyond my expectations. The heat gun method also works with the stuff that comes in black and gold jars, my preference. Also, low heat. Aim around or away from metal grommets as those heat up much faster. If you have one of those fancy digital heat guns, I would dial the temperature to 150-200F. I swear by this method now, thanks for putting it out there!
how does your boots look now? after wear did it look like it used to before you waxed them? I got a pair of loggers that could use wax but don't want to make them look goofy
I have always used Snow Seal (which is a beeswax preparation) and a hair dryer for major work, else Obenaufs. Several coats of the Snow Seal which are very thin melted in with the hair dryer--the hair dryer is designed for not burning hair (protein) so should not be capable of damaging leather if you are not insane about overheating.. It may take several days to get it right, a little bit every day. An old toothbrush for cleaning is a bit more thorough than the bigger brush you used.
Hair dryer on low setting is more than enough heat, pre heat the boots and apply the wax to the warm leather. Keep heating the boots as you apply. You can rub the solid wax block on the leather it will melt and soak in that way you aren't wasting as much wax. Heat guns are quicker, but a hair dryer is enough. Same method can be used applying mink oil/conditioning oil, and it also works for waxing/oiling canvas.
Holy cow !! I absolutely love these boots ! I would truly love to have a pair of these boots but they are just completely out of my price range lol! But I can dream! Thanks for the great videos and boots
Buy once cry once! I have an really old pair of Whites and I’m going to ask Nicks to rebuild them. My daily wear boots (another pair) are 25 years old!!! They fit like a glove and really help my back. I regularly clean and oil them. They have been rebuilt. Rebuilds cost about half that of new boots. So much better than buying new boots each year. Get a set! You won’t regret it.
I make my own "wax" using 2 parts beeswax, 3 parts coconut oil, and 1 part olive oil. Apply with a microfiber towel. Still need to use a hair dryer to melt it into the leather and pre-heat both the leather and the wax but it does a pretty good job and doesn't destroy the look of the boot. *Disclaimer: use at your own risk but it's cheap and worked well for me.
Before I deployed to Bosnia in the mid 90s, we used a similar method and used duct tape to protect the edges also preheat the leather with a hair dryer then apply the wax.
I have used bees wax on a pair of boots and it turned out ok. I used a block of wax and a heat gun, similar to the example shown in the craft and lore video from a few months back.
When I fought wildfires for the forest service, I found the best way was to just clean the boots, coat it in obenaufs, and put in the oven at its lowest possible setting till the wax was all in. The wax lasted the longest and it ended up the most even that way
Huh. Mine went much better than that just by using a heat gun on a long wax bar. Controled exactly how much wax and where, then heat gun again to melt it all in. Probably helps that my Builder Pros are black rough out, but still, that worked great for me.
Mink oil wax worked great for my nicks Americana wax flesh I have worn them over 50 times. They still look brand new . I also use shoe trees every time they are off my feet and stored ;)
I definitely agree if you want to preserve the look of your boots, Smith’s leather balm is the way to go. Otherwise Obenaufs Heavy duty LP is super good stuff. Will darken the leather significantly and it can feel a bit sticky.
I'm really surprised he didn't use the same method shown in the video he did with the owner of craft and lore. I just did my Frank's type 1 commanders with heat gun and a solid block of pure beeswax. They look great, very little mess and are keeping the water out.
I once used a similar method to seal some Timberlands with Snoseal and had similar results. This type of seal is not aesthetic, but it will make your boots last much longer! :D
I have a beard that’s like 3 months older than my Nicks boots. You said in a video about the boot grease. “It’s great for your beard” I figured what the hell and tried it. It IS great for the beard. You say that about this, I think I’ll pass. 😂
Actually using low heat is very important lol. I use sno-seal rather than pure wax on my boots it's much easier to apply just using a rag. Then I just use light heat and additional coats until the leather can't pull in any more.
Sno seal on suede works great. The fibers of the suede allow a lot more of the wax to hold. It really changes the look and feel as well if you aren’t big on suede like me.
Apply Sno-Seal at room temperature by hand and then melt it into the boots with a hair dryer. While still warm, rub it into the leather by hand. Next day, boots can be buffed to a shine. Very waterproof results.
@@michaelhess4825 I see no need of an oven. Try applying Sno-Seal at room temperature and then melting it with a hair dryer. Better to heat the article and the Sno-Seal at the same time. No concern about the article cooling off too much to absorb like the oven method.
@@stevenroche9874 I still use a hair dryer usually, but the oven is 100% consistent, so the stitch lines and hard to get crevasses will get equal heating, then wipe off extra.
Back in the day, we would melt wax toilet rings in a pot, brush it on with a paint brush and then rub/brush it out. Not necessarily pretty but keeps your feet pretty dry.
I have found an old time recipe old timers used on leather, metal and wood, 1 part Beeswax, 1/2 Part Linseed Oil & 1 Part Turpentine, heat on non flammable hot plate and apply, the turpentine cuts the wax and makes it easy to apply, been using this for some time now on my boots and love the results, after some applications leaves a really nice protective glaze on the boots and does not let the leather dry out, was worried about the turpentine with the leather and or stitching with deteriorating stitching or damaging the leather, but after some time of use I have not seen any issues with the turpentine so far, just a suggestion. I work in Ash and Lime which can destroy boots in a hurry and coworkers are impressed by the protection and time this adds to the boots being in these conditions.
I find the rack in the clothes drier works best. Coat the leather (a bit less than you did), then run it for 30 min on med-high. A Heat gun is just asking for trouble. Wax melts easy. Sometimes pre-heating the shoes in the drier helps.
Is there any advantage in waxing the boots with pure wax instead of pre-made emulsions mixed with oils that have way lower melting point? I would say pure wax will quickly crumble where the leather bends and you will lose most of it waterproofing ability.
What a mess! I have the BWF and I just rub a little wax into it with my thumb. Once a week or so just to rub out scuffs or cuts and maintains the original look and finish.
Pro tip use a silicone basting brush and pre heat the boots. Makes for a more even application especially when doing multiple coats. This is better than trying to do it with just a solid stick of wax imo.
I use Huberds boot grease on wax calf rough out leather. Is a mix of pine tar snd bees wax and it is like grease so it flows easily and you can also warm it with a heat gun. I prefer to coat the boots then sit them in a window that gets plenty of sun. Do not put the boots in the oven! The glue used on the soles will unbond if heated to much.
Thanks for posting this disaster. Cool process but it reminds me of the time I dropped a loaded nacho on my boot and the time I had cleaning it off. Serious question though can you use oil?
I definitely commend them for posting it. Because he had no idea how the roller was going to work yet played it off in the beginning like it was his go to. People would have taken it as a tried to true method if he didn’t post the after saying he never used it.
I've used snow seal to good effect. after the boot takes wax polish very well too. I just heated the boot in an oven at 100 degrees and then used a blow dryer while apply the snow seal. also let's see some pics of what the boots look like now. thanks for the great video!
I did this exact process and then put it in a Chefman food dehydrator whoch i now use as a leather hot-box (160°F). The boots soaked up ALL of the wax (except the rubber). Another example was a pair of gloves i waxed and left in the hot box at 160° for 6 hours in which the wax mostly disappeared. It drank it all up. I would only recommend an hour or two in a 160° oven or box. Hope that helps someone
Does the from-the-factory waxed flesh breath at all? And does saturating them with wax make them less breathable, trapping moisture against your sock/feet?
"at this point you can see that most of the wax has absorbed into the leather" as I'm staring at the mound of wax beneath the boot and on the rubber sole
Mink oil breaks down the lanolins and fiber structure of the leather over time. But it is good if you want to break it in fast and don't mind the soft supple feeling and loss of support
I used tolit ring wax with a little mineral spirits and splash of tree tea oil. Then buff them out with a grinder wheel sheep skin pad . stick then in a plastic bag a few days . its the best I have ever seen my boots. Oh and spray of leather sent .just for then smell of it.
You know normally with videos like this people in the comments will either be like yeah this is absolutely what you do or warn people that it's just trolling but I can't find that this time and it scares me
Ok folks. Lemme start by saying I work as a 12 year journeyman hvac industrial worker and spend maybe 85 percent of my time in midwest industrial sites. Alcoa, vectren cully, a.k. steel and a.b. brown powerplants as well as Alcoa and century aluminum smelters. Coal/tar pitch, alumina( ore form aluminum) coal dust/mud are daily enemies to my boots. Just so u know I'm no newbie. Here's what I do. Buy a pair of top notch red wing boots. A good thick mink oil or standard off the shelf product is fine. Coat them and set them aside. Wipe them down after a day and go ta work. When they start ta look shitty, saddle soap and a toothbrush, letem dry on the house vent, then mink oil or off the shelf product. I use a red wing product but I'm no big fan of one brand or another. Amazon sells a real good one. Can't remember the name. After a day, add another coat. Letem sit. Come Monday morning, wipem down, put ur laces back in and go ta work. Union strong all day long. Much simpler. Oh and btw, my boots outlast the soles. Usually every 4 or 5 years I replace/re sole them.
I think they look pretty cool with all that wax before the melting process haha I’d imagine a European high fashion brand would sell those for double the price 😂
How much wax is too much wax? 😂
Yikes !!
Yes
I like Obenaufs oil & wax!
When you’re putting wax over wax
Wax was there to take over not to take part! 😃
Unexpected boot comedy is apparently exactly what I needed while warming up after shoveling snow.
Glad to serve you ☺️
Love that you kept a ‘fail’ video. Actually very instructional.
Glad you liked it!
i actually like the idea of keeping a thick bead of wax over the stitching for the winter
it takes guts to feature your fails. very human. very natural. your viewers like me can relate more. keep it up!
I really love how you aren't hiding anything that went wrong, and just being brutally honest. Love your boots! I have one pair of Overlanders and am looking at other pairs to order in the future!
Great to see even professionals make mistakes!
I have had very good luck applying hot mink oil on my boots for Minnesota winters.
Clean and condition the boots first, heat up mink oil till it turns into a liquid, wipe on evenly and brush into the seams, let dry overnight, brush with a horse hair brush.
Beautiful and ultra supple waterproof finish. Just another method folks might find useful. Cheers
Thanks for sharing!
I like mink oil as well or lotion leather conditioner.
I definitely prefer obenaufs heavy duty lp. That looks like a mess.
Your editor did you dirty and I love it
Love the humility here. Good fun boys. Why I love Nicks over all the others. Keep it up!
Thanks! Will do!
Warming the leather before you apply the wax helps… especially if the leather is below 75 degrees. I’ve mostly done waxed Cotten coats (Filson, Orvis) with this process but have found it works good on boots too. I also generally do this maintenance in the summer when the ambient temperature is 80+… it’s much easier than in the winter when the indoor temperature is in the mid 60s.
Finally! Couldn’t hide behind those build videos forever haha ❤️
Great honest video! Really glad you decided to show this instead of scrapping the video material, since it did turn out a bit of a disaster.
I’ve never tried straight beeswax….. but I have been putting my boots in the oven to pre-heat then to soak in the grease… Sno seal or Obenaufs…. Worked great for 35 years. Just don’t do it when the oven master is home😱🤷♂️🤣😎👍 love the videos, keep ‘em coming.
First you can buy clear white beeswax. Mask off with blue painters tape the sole. Personally a cheap boot tray works for catching the excess wax dripping down and won't collect near as much on the soles. You can also melt the wax down there and wipe as much possible off with the blue shop towel too.
You want to use a horse hair paint brush for the melted wax. Work in sections and as you melt it in take a blue shop towel and wipe the excess off. For the nooks and crannies while it is still soft you can take q-tips to get it out. I did a friend's 875 Red Wing's for him and there is absolutely no residual.
After that I take a dedicated horsehair brush and get the excess out off. Melt the boot one last time. Use a shop towel off and install shoe or boot trees and buff it as much as possible. Is it more work? Yes but absolutely worth it. Overall for his 875 each boot with buffing took 45 minutes, I did two coats of beeswax. Two years later and the wax is just now wearing off but they still don't really need done just yet. Definitely the lazy man's way to boot care.
I’ve been doing this for the last thirty years. A couple of tricks I found is to put the boots on a cookie sheet and into the oven. Put the oven on warm, no higher. Warming the boots prior to waxing helps the wax seep into the leather while brushing. After the waxing is complete, put the boots back into the oven. The oven will allow the wax to evenly seep into the leather without burning the boots. I developed this trick when I use to apply a product called Sno-seal to my leather mountaineering boots. The Sno-seal had an unpleasant odor, where the bees wax doesn’t.
Good Advice. What temp and how long?
@@danielvezza Turn the oven on, ant set the oven to “Warm”, let it come up to temp. Once it is up to temp, put your boots in for 20 to 30 minutes. Pull the boots out and coat with melted wax. Once you have both boots coated, place them back in the oven. Be sure to put the boots on a sheet pan, to collect any wax that drips off. The wax should seep into the leather, in about 15 minutes. Use a clean cloth to wipe the boots.
@@solowfrful Thanks!
I live in Oregon-I’ll take waterproofing over looks all day long.
I think they looked fine aftet
Best instruction video I ever saw! What to do and what not - in a relaxed way👍👍👍💪💪💪
Love the honesty guys!!! Love my nick’s boots!!!
Hello! Wanted to say, your previous video inspired me to wax all my shoe wear! Results are beyond my expectations. The heat gun method also works with the stuff that comes in black and gold jars, my preference. Also, low heat. Aim around or away from metal grommets as those heat up much faster. If you have one of those fancy digital heat guns, I would dial the temperature to 150-200F. I swear by this method now, thanks for putting it out there!
how does your boots look now? after wear did it look like it used to before you waxed them? I got a pair of loggers that could use wax but don't want to make them look goofy
I have always used Snow Seal (which is a beeswax preparation) and a hair dryer for major work, else Obenaufs. Several coats of the Snow Seal which are very thin melted in with the hair dryer--the hair dryer is designed for not burning hair (protein) so should not be capable of damaging leather if you are not insane about overheating.. It may take several days to get it right, a little bit every day. An old toothbrush for cleaning is a bit more thorough than the bigger brush you used.
I think it's the heat that might damage the leather, not the beeswax.
Hair dryer on low setting is more than enough heat, pre heat the boots and apply the wax to the warm leather. Keep heating the boots as you apply. You can rub the solid wax block on the leather it will melt and soak in that way you aren't wasting as much wax. Heat guns are quicker, but a hair dryer is enough. Same method can be used applying mink oil/conditioning oil, and it also works for waxing/oiling canvas.
Holy cow !! I absolutely love these boots ! I would truly love to have a pair of these boots but they are just completely out of my price range lol! But I can dream! Thanks for the great videos and boots
Buy once cry once! I have an really old pair of Whites and I’m going to ask Nicks to rebuild them. My daily wear boots (another pair) are 25 years old!!! They fit like a glove and really help my back. I regularly clean and oil them. They have been rebuilt. Rebuilds cost about half that of new boots. So much better than buying new boots each year. Get a set! You won’t regret it.
This method is great for people that work outdoors in the bad weather 🤘🏽💯
Grant videos are the best and this video is no exception.
This is great! Nick's boots comedy hour!
I make my own "wax" using 2 parts beeswax, 3 parts coconut oil, and 1 part olive oil. Apply with a microfiber towel. Still need to use a hair dryer to melt it into the leather and pre-heat both the leather and the wax but it does a pretty good job and doesn't destroy the look of the boot.
*Disclaimer: use at your own risk but it's cheap and worked well for me.
Thanks. Now I know I’ll never wax my boots. 😂
Waxing is a great thing, just don't do it like we did 😂
Before I deployed to Bosnia in the mid 90s, we used a similar method and used duct tape to protect the edges also preheat the leather with a hair dryer then apply the wax.
"While most boots are meant to be thrown away after a few months..." What? I had no idea! I've been wearing most of mine for decades! :)
I'd love to see how they look after a week or two of daily wear
He prolly threw them out
I have a tool belt I made. I treated the leather with beeswax and a heat gun, 7-8 years now and still going strong.
@@Sadgamer-143 Nope, a year later still making videos with the same boot. as it was the FIRST urban logger
I have used bees wax on a pair of boots and it turned out ok. I used a block of wax and a heat gun, similar to the example shown in the craft and lore video from a few months back.
Thanks! Just waxed my good old wings based on this video mostly! But not that hardcore, single coat was enough for mine 😀
When I fought wildfires for the forest service, I found the best way was to just clean the boots, coat it in obenaufs, and put in the oven at its lowest possible setting till the wax was all in. The wax lasted the longest and it ended up the most even that way
Bro, those do look great.
Good way to do a instructional video, as you learn as you go. Where did they get this guy?
The Swiss Army used to issue a bar of wax called Fix. All leather items used to be waxed.
Huh. Mine went much better than that just by using a heat gun on a long wax bar. Controled exactly how much wax and where, then heat gun again to melt it all in.
Probably helps that my Builder Pros are black rough out, but still, that worked great for me.
Very interesting video , next video how I would do it now :-) until then
Happy Trails
Mink oil wax worked great for my nicks Americana wax flesh I have worn them over 50 times. They still look brand new . I also use shoe trees every time they are off my feet and stored ;)
This was fun to watch :)
Love the confidence while the house is burning down.
I have a feeling you were making this up as you went! lol
I definitely agree if you want to preserve the look of your boots, Smith’s leather balm is the way to go. Otherwise Obenaufs Heavy duty LP is super good stuff. Will darken the leather significantly and it can feel a bit sticky.
I'm really surprised he didn't use the same method shown in the video he did with the owner of craft and lore. I just did my Frank's type 1 commanders with heat gun and a solid block of pure beeswax. They look great, very little mess and are keeping the water out.
I once used a similar method to seal some Timberlands with Snoseal and had similar results. This type of seal is not aesthetic, but it will make your boots last much longer! :D
I like the way they look 👌
Interesting...I've been using mink oil for 50+ yrs and treat all my boots every 2 to 3 months and have had very good success.
That was freaking hilarious! 🤣
This video was hilarious guys
Hey guys, ty for the advice! Question. What are the recommended care products for natural waxed flesh?
Love the wax soak method
Fun video to watch....good to know I'm not the only one who tries something different...and the results are less than optimal...haha...
It's always better to try and fail, than not to try and be left to wonder if you did...
I have a beard that’s like 3 months older than my Nicks boots. You said in a video about the boot grease. “It’s great for your beard” I figured what the hell and tried it. It IS great for the beard. You say that about this, I think I’ll pass. 😂
If you want a better mix than straight bees wax, mix in a bit of neatsfoot oil and pine tar.
Hahaha, 10/10 for editing
The soothing background music, 🤣🤣
Why am I imagining him barefoot behind the table?
😂😂😂😂😂😂
Enjoy your videos
Actually using low heat is very important lol. I use sno-seal rather than pure wax on my boots it's much easier to apply just using a rag. Then I just use light heat and additional coats until the leather can't pull in any more.
Sno seal on suede works great. The fibers of the suede allow a lot more of the wax to hold. It really changes the look and feel as well if you aren’t big on suede like me.
I like to just use Obenauf's Leather Preserve that is basically bee's wax and propolis. It rubs on really easily with no hassle.
Compared to the builder pro your Urbane logger seems courteous and refined.
Don't know if it would help but I would try heating up the boot before applying the wax
Apply Sno-Seal at room temperature by hand and then melt it into the boots with a hair dryer. While still warm, rub it into the leather by hand. Next day, boots can be buffed to a shine. Very waterproof results.
This is my solution to all leather that gets wet, it works wonderfully. Throw your gloves in the over for a bit at 200 and it really soaks in good.
@@michaelhess4825 I see no need of an oven. Try applying Sno-Seal at room temperature and then melting it with a hair dryer. Better to heat the article and the Sno-Seal at the same time. No concern about the article cooling off too much to absorb like the oven method.
@@stevenroche9874 I still use a hair dryer usually, but the oven is 100% consistent, so the stitch lines and hard to get crevasses will get equal heating, then wipe off extra.
Back in the day, we would melt wax toilet rings in a pot, brush it on with a paint brush and then rub/brush it out. Not necessarily pretty but keeps your feet pretty dry.
I have found an old time recipe old timers used on leather, metal and wood, 1 part Beeswax, 1/2 Part Linseed Oil & 1 Part Turpentine, heat on non flammable hot plate and apply, the turpentine cuts the wax and makes it easy to apply, been using this for some time now on my boots and love the results, after some applications leaves a really nice protective glaze on the boots and does not let the leather dry out, was worried about the turpentine with the leather and or stitching with deteriorating stitching or damaging the leather, but after some time of use I have not seen any issues with the turpentine so far, just a suggestion. I work in Ash and Lime which can destroy boots in a hurry and coworkers are impressed by the protection and time this adds to the boots being in these conditions.
You stated that you wear these year round. Does the waxed flesh leather tend not to breathe, making them less optimal for summer?
Thanks,I enjoyed that.
Sorry about the boots.
I find the rack in the clothes drier works best. Coat the leather (a bit less than you did), then run it for 30 min on med-high.
A Heat gun is just asking for trouble. Wax melts easy. Sometimes pre-heating the shoes in the drier helps.
Upon applying heatted and Melted wax sticked instead absorbing in to the leather ??🤔 Amazed
What about Fiebings Aussie wax? Would that work for rewaxing without having to deal with melting wax?
Is there any advantage in waxing the boots with pure wax instead of pre-made emulsions mixed with oils that have way lower melting point? I would say pure wax will quickly crumble where the leather bends and you will lose most of it waterproofing ability.
What a mess! I have the BWF and I just rub a little wax into it with my thumb. Once a week or so just to rub out scuffs or cuts and maintains the original look and finish.
Pro tip use a silicone basting brush and pre heat the boots. Makes for a more even application especially when doing multiple coats. This is better than trying to do it with just a solid stick of wax imo.
I use Huberds boot grease on wax calf rough out leather. Is a mix of pine tar snd bees wax and it is like grease so it flows easily and you can also warm it with a heat gun. I prefer to coat the boots then sit them in a window that gets plenty of sun. Do not put the boots in the oven! The glue used on the soles will unbond if heated to much.
horween uses venetian shoe cream themselves..so i say use it..it looks almost like new..and its way way easier to apply..
Thanks for sharing!
Thanks for posting this disaster. Cool process but it reminds me of the time I dropped a loaded nacho on my boot and the time I had cleaning it off. Serious question though can you use oil?
Iv always used vaseline and it's worked great for years it just rubs right in and it's great stuff apply it about twice a year and your good to go
If nothing else, this video is honest.
I definitely commend them for posting it. Because he had no idea how the roller was going to work yet played it off in the beginning like it was his go to. People would have taken it as a tried to true method if he didn’t post the after saying he never used it.
@@michaelcasella4774 when he said he only treated his boots once since he had it, I knew it was gonna be a fun watch, lol
I've used snow seal to good effect. after the boot takes wax polish very well too. I just heated the boot in an oven at 100 degrees and then used a blow dryer while apply the snow seal.
also let's see some pics of what the boots look like now. thanks for the great video!
Can i use that saddle soap and water on rough out leather too?
Yes, although due to the nature of roughout leather it will take slightly longer to dry out
nice movie enjoyed watching
I did this exact process and then put it in a Chefman food dehydrator whoch i now use as a leather hot-box (160°F). The boots soaked up ALL of the wax (except the rubber).
Another example was a pair of gloves i waxed and left in the hot box at 160° for 6 hours in which the wax mostly disappeared. It drank it all up. I would only recommend an hour or two in a 160° oven or box. Hope that helps someone
Does the from-the-factory waxed flesh breath at all? And does saturating them with wax make them less breathable, trapping moisture against your sock/feet?
If it keeps moisture out it keeps moisture in
Can you oil your boots and then wax them?
Blow torch to light a candle speaks so many things. 😆
"at this point you can see that most of the wax has absorbed into the leather" as I'm staring at the mound of wax beneath the boot and on the rubber sole
They be waterproof 😃
Have you tried using SnoSeal?
Great video. Just asking, I use mink oil. Why not mink oil instead of wax?
Mink oil breaks down the lanolins and fiber structure of the leather over time. But it is good if you want to break it in fast and don't mind the soft supple feeling and loss of support
I used tolit ring wax with a little mineral spirits and splash of tree tea oil. Then buff them out with a grinder wheel sheep skin pad . stick then in a plastic bag a few days . its the best I have ever seen my boots. Oh and spray of leather sent .just for then smell of it.
You know normally with videos like this people in the comments will either be like yeah this is absolutely what you do or warn people that it's just trolling but I can't find that this time and it scares me
Me trying to respond to comments like 👁👄👁
Ok folks. Lemme start by saying I work as a 12 year journeyman hvac industrial worker and spend maybe 85 percent of my time in midwest industrial sites. Alcoa, vectren cully, a.k. steel and a.b. brown powerplants as well as Alcoa and century aluminum smelters. Coal/tar pitch, alumina( ore form aluminum) coal dust/mud are daily enemies to my boots. Just so u know I'm no newbie. Here's what I do.
Buy a pair of top notch red wing boots.
A good thick mink oil or standard off the shelf product is fine.
Coat them and set them aside.
Wipe them down after a day and go ta work.
When they start ta look shitty, saddle soap and a toothbrush, letem dry on the house vent, then mink oil or off the shelf product. I use a red wing product but I'm no big fan of one brand or another. Amazon sells a real good one. Can't remember the name. After a day, add another coat. Letem sit. Come Monday morning, wipem down, put ur laces back in and go ta work. Union strong all day long. Much simpler. Oh and btw, my boots outlast the soles. Usually every 4 or 5 years I replace/re sole them.
Do I apply wax on wet boots?
"...a very even application." 😆😆🤣🤣
Snow seal has been working for me for years now. Applies at room temperature.
Mink oil also works well less messy
I think they look pretty cool with all that wax before the melting process haha I’d imagine a European high fashion brand would sell those for double the price 😂
the boots: MOISTURIZE ME 👁👄👁
😂😂😂😂