Shimano Cassette Lockring Removal
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- čas přidán 7. 09. 2024
- How to use a chainwhip and a Park FR-5 lockring removal tool.
UPDATE: I'm no longer making the chain whips and selling them with the lockring tools but you can get a decent deal on amazon here: amzn.to/2vyZ8cu If you're looking for actual Park FR5(made in the USA lockring tool) here's an Amazon link to that: amzn.to/2vCjh1g
And if you've got money to burn, here's the Park Tools Chain Whip: amzn.to/2vyEJ70
(Those are Amazon affiliate links. I'm not compensated by the manufacturer or Amazon for putting that specific link up there, but if you do end up buying something on amazon from that link I'll get a small commission. Doesn't cost you anything extra on Amazon. That kind of thing helps me to keep making more videos.)
It's much easier understanding the procedure by watching the video than reading a instruction.
Thanks for posting it.
Thank you sir, you are indeed my hero. After a couple of hours of shredding my fingers on the casette, I swallowed my pride and admitted defeat. After watching this video, I feel stupid, but now my casette is of. Thank you again.
I've got the new freewheel installed now. Thanks a bunch WheeliePete. Your suggestions saved me some money as I was about to buy the wrong tools for this job and your help saved the day come install day. :D
Used your video to remove cassette so I could replace some damaged spokes. Very straight-forward. My cassette had a pin in in as well, which I wasn't expecting. I pulled the cassette off and went, "uh-oh... Where'd that come from?" :-D Got it together though (went with the large tooth). Great guide. I'm sure I'll watch some more.
I'm working on video ideas right now. What kind of bike repair videos would you like to see? I'm looking for suggestions/ideas. Have you seen the headset video and the brake cable cleaning video I did? Check them out if you haven't. Thanks, -Pete
No crap. Just clear concise instructions. Thank you wheelie Pete.
I just watched a few videos on how to remove my cassette, and yours was the best. It was clear, easy to see and easy to understand. Thanks!
9 years on and still useful, perfect!
Bloody brilliant - that's how you create an instructional video. Thanks WheeliePete, you've saved everyone a ton of time by not having to wade through the other CZcams junk. :)
Best video I've seen about cassette removal. Very clear.
@abhijeetanandcool You are correct. The more expensive cassette stacks ususally have the largest cogs machined from a solid piece. Saves weight, but increases cost. Park tools makes a brush specifically for cleaning between the cogs, works really well. You can also take a cloth and run it between the cogs. Carburetor cleaner works well also.
First off there are a couple versions of the tool that look the same but have different applications. The FR-5 is pictured in this video. The FR-11 looks similar, but only fits Campangolo, the FR-7 and FR-1 also look similar, but are for freewheels. If you do have an FR-5 and it won't fit, and you do have a cassette, the tool you have may have too much finish on it making it too tight. Park had a problem a few years ago with their fishing coating where it made the tools not fit right.
@WheeliePete continued. from above... by running the QR skewer through the axle and the FR-5 tool you eliminate the possiblity of the tool slipping out of the splines on the lockring cap. From my 20+ years of professional wrenching I can tell you that you want that lockring on there tight. Trust me, the first time you have a lockring come loose in the middle of a race or a big ride out in the middle of nowhere you'll wish it had been on there tighter.
I've run into that too with the spacer and Mavic issue. You need to run a spacer on 10spd Shimano cassette stacks if you are using a 8-9-10 compatible freehub body. Shimano made a specific free-hub for 10spd and then includes a 1mm spacer so that you can use the gears on any 8-9-10 freehub...HOWEVER...for whatever reason you need a thicker spacer for the mavic freehub. I didn't have a 2mm spacer so I just used a cog spacer from an old 9spd cassette.
You can't shorten the freehub body, but you can run spacers (to take the place of gears) on either side of a single cog. There are a couple companies that make kits to turn a multi-gear bike into a single speed.
excellent, simple, straight forward, informative
A true free-wheel is a assembly that screws onto a threaded hub. The sprocket is attached to the freewheel body and you unscrew the sprocket and freewheel body off the hub itself. On a freehub style cassette the freehub body is bolted to the hub then the sprockets are put onto the freehub body secured by a lockring. You might be able to make a chainwhip of sorts. You just have to hold the sprocket enough to overcome the torque on the lockring cap.
Very good video on the dismantlement and reassembly of the cassette sprockets; thanks.
@AndyK243 Yeah, you need the chainwhip for the leverage. That lockring should be on pretty tight. In the video it was pretty loose because I'd been shooting the footage over and over. In an actual application you have to put some force into unscrewing the lockring cap and you'll need the leverage of the chainwhip handle to hold that cassette freehub still.
Fantastic video. Very detailed, yet simple to follow and well explained. I've just bought a new set of rims and used this vid to change my cassette over to the new set. Thanks for posting!
True, it actually it used to bind in reverse last year so i used motorcycle chain lube throughout the chain & gearset, it worked but started to stick & get clogged. By Failure i meant that it would simply quit locking the forward motion completely & leave you stranded right there, as if the chain fell off the gears. I lubed the set with mobil one 5w30 full synthetic & rode 30 mins in -15 C/ 5 F without a failure.
Good deal, I was typing my response to your last post when this one came through. Yeah, if you were able to put it in a vise you have a freewheel, not a cassette style freehub. The freewheels get so tight because just simply pedaling them tightens the freewheel body to the hub threads. So a few years of pedaling and continual tightening force can really lock those surfaces together. When you put it back together put a little anti-sieze on the threads in case you ever have to go back in there
You don't need a chainwhip to unscrew a freewheel because the spline tool fits down inside the freewheel body and unscrews it (as well as the cogs) from the hub. The old problem with freewheels of course is that the axle's bearing on the drive side is at the hub (leaving a lot of axle essentially unsupported) whereas a cassette body has bearings supporting the axle farther out near the dropouts = more support for the axle.
Thank you sir! Was struggling removing a stuck freewheel until I watched this video
Yes, it does matter. Most cassette stacks have ramps built into the individual sprockets as well as a bevel on the outside of the sprocket tooth itself (the side of the sprocket facing away from the wheel.) These features aid in the chain being picked up by the next sprocket.
Having only three threads is one of the reasons to buy a chris king lock ring. They go into the hub body deeper then the regular lockrings from shimano and sram. You can get them in either titanium or aluminum and you only need to buy it once. I have a titanium one and it is definitely an improvement on the standard one that came with my xt cassette.
you made an intimidating task seem reasonably simple, thanks alot, greatly appreciated.
Great clip. I love that you know all of the terminology.
Great vid, thank. Simple and to the point plus its nice that its a full disassemble and reassemble vid
Thanks for the excellent instructional video. It's by far better than the pipe wrench and screwdriver/hammer method I saw in the other video, not to mention very informative. I went ahead and ordered the chain whip and lock ring tool from you as well.
@MaRcIu27 Some cassette stacks are pinned on the back cogs. Unless the pins are screws they are not designed to be taken apart. You "could" take them apart if you grind off the heads of the pins and punch them out, but they really weren't meant to be taken apart if they are pinned.
If you have a freewheel you don't have a lockring cap, the freewheel itself is threaded onto the hub body. The tool to remove a freewheel looks like a lockring tool, but the splines are usually a lot longer. You need to get more leverage as freewheels are usually really, really, tight because they get tighter from pedaling action. Freewheels and freehubs (cassette style like in the video) are two entirely different animals. You need more leverage (longer wrench)
Very Informative,I have never seen this done before. Your explanation was very clear and concise,thanks heaps.
Not sure what you mean by "fails"? if it's that cold and it quits wanting to free-wheel backwards it's probably because the grease has thickened to the point that it doesn't want to free-wheel eaisly. A new, thinner grease might help...
If the wheel is loose on the axle you can adjust the bearings on the non-drive side to tighten the wheel/axle combination. You will need cone wrenches (very thin wrenches) to do this. Best left to a bike mechanic if possible. Overtightening can destroy the bearings in short order.
Some freehub bodies require a 1mm spacer behind the cassette stack in order to snug up the cassette stack. They may have forgotten to install the spacer with the cassette stack. This is really common when you have an older shimano 8spd freehub body and you install a 10spd shimano cassette stack. For a while they were shipping all the newer 10spd cassette stacks with the 1mm spacer included in case you needed it to snug the cassette down, but I'm not sure if they are doing that any more.
@ssstellarj You do not need to lube the freehub body or the cassette cogs. Just install as in the video.
Lockring assembly works the same, but there are some different spline patterns. If you have a free-wheel instead of a cassette you woul need a free-wheel removal tool with the correct spline pattern. Most newer bikes and gear combos have a pretty standardized locking, but there are always exceptions...
You probably have a 6spd FREEWHEEL which is different than a cassette. On a freewheel the gears are affixed to the freewheel body and you unscrew the whole thing from the hub of the wheel. You will need the freewheel removal tool specific to that freewheel. To change to 8/9/10 speed cassette you will need a new hub (and new shifters, and new derailleur, etc.
You can try more leverage. Slip a piece of pipe over the wrench to extend the length of the lever that is the wrench handle. You probably want two people at that point. One to hold the chainwhip and one to try and turn the wrench.
I just received the chain whip and lock ring tool from you today. OMG you ship fast!!! And all the way across the country from Oregon nonetheless!!!
I'd love to see you make more bike related "how to/maintenance" videos.
You can buy the lockring removal tool and chainwhip as a set from me. I sell them on eBay under seller ID: wheelie_pete, or you can contact me directly and we can work something out. I've got over 600 feedback on eBay 100% positive.
If you're going to torque the cap with a torque wrench you'll probalby need to remove the cap and the quick release skewer to get the wrench on there. You'll also have to have a socket big enough to go over the lockring tool. I never torque to spec, I just crank it down tight (not crazy-tight though). It's not a critical torque value. It just needs to not come loose while riding. I always check my lockrings to make sure they are tight before any major ride/race.
@WheeliePete thanks for reply I understand that, I only clean it with petrol (pink oil or something) and its shining again!
@comac1983 Mavic wheels sometimes require a thicker spacer than the 1mm one that is supplied with shimano 10spd cassette stacks. I had the exact same problem. I looked in my junk drawers and ended up using a cog spacer from an old 9spd stack, I put that spacer on the mavic freehub body, then the cassette stack and then the lockring would actually tighten the cogs down before bottoming out on the freehub body. If your cogs are loose and the lockring is tight, you need a bigger spacer.
There is some oscillation in the freehub, but not a lot. If it's moving around quite a bit the freehub body may be worn out.
@bhdproduction2007 It was either a Shimano Ultegra 10spd or a SRAM 10spd road cassette. I can't remember, I use a lot of both... I like them both. I usually can get the SRAM's cheaper though...
Great video, a lot easier than I originally had thought. Now I feel more confident. Thanks.
It is a plate looking thing, but it has 12 grooves in it to correspond with the 12 splines on the lockring tool. What you are describing sounds like a freewheel, not a cassette style free-hub.
Great guide. Got a good idea of tightness through the vid
@dalecs47 You can get a 1mm spacer online or from a bike shop. If there is enough room you can take apart an old cassette and run one of the spacers from that if it will fit. I had to do that on a Mavic wheel with a 10spd stack. I used a cassette cog spacer from an old 9spd stack. Worked great on that Mavic wheel. The cogs should tighten down TIGHT. If they are loose they will just rock back and forth and chew up your cassette body.
@4dread5 Putting the quick release through the tools has nothing to do with the lockring being on too tight, it's about not having the tool slip out when you put a wrench to it. The spline engagement is not very deep on the FR-5 so if you are trying to hold the wrench in one hand and hold the chainwhip in the other while balancing the wheel on the bench you can eaisly get off kilter and pop the tool out of the lockring.
@eatmealiveplease To prevent the lockring tool from possibly popping off when you try to use the wrench on it. i usually don't do it myself, but for beginner's it's best to put the nut on the quick release just to avoid the possibility of the tool popping out when you go to use the wrench.
@WheeliePete i have done it without a chain whip (used a tea-towel and held tight) on my Dawes road bike. I checked with a reputable bike shop and they said that if u have to put the quick release over the tool its on way too tight, understandable, there aren't very many threads on that ring... Good video btw
I've found Park's customer service to be excellent. If you do indeed have one of the tools what was either machined wrong or had to thick of a finish applied, they will probably send you a new one if you call and complain (nicely).
@MagnumForce51 With your current system you are limited to freewheel units only. You could get different tooth count freewheels, but that's about it.
@luke12326 You will still need to come up with spacers to take up the room that would be created by removing the other cogs.
Okay, sounds like the prawls that engage the hub body got packed full of gunk and stayed stuck in the down position and wouldn't engage the interal points. It might not be a bad idea to just hose that body out with carb-cleaner and re-pack with a light grease that works in very cold weather. Synthetic oil is fine for a temporary fix, but it won't stay in place like a good grease will...
The other reason they fuse the cheaper cassette stacks is because rivits or pins are cheaper and easier to assemble than the old screw style.
@WheeliePete absolutely spot on, this was a good solution you had, i kept having to turn it with a wrench and it really wanted to come off. good advice PEte
If you can physically rock the gears back and forth with your hand and you feel play, there is something wrong. If you have a cassette, the lockring might be loose. If you have a free-wheel, then the free-wheel itself is probably worn out. There is a HUGE difference between free-wheel and cassette style free-hub bodies.
I bought the chain whip at PhP300, Lock Ring Removal Tool PhP250 at a local bike shop last year
@chrislegend06 Nope, you just need a freehub body that is splined for the SRAM cassette. ie: Shimano compatible freehub.
Great vid...have all the tools but it's been years since I've had to install a cassette so this is a great refresher. Many thanks for this and for saving me a trip to the shop. Keep the vids coming.
I saw the headset video. Nice and very well explained. Didnt see the brake cleaning video though.
How about proper maintenance? Cleaning and lubing the chain, things you should inspect before your ride, or how about what's involved in a basic tune-up from your typical LBS and how to perform it yourself? Proper procedures for adjusting front and rear derailers? Just some ideas.
I sell them as a set on eBay under seller ID " Wheelie_Pete ", but I only sell and ship to the US due to shipping costs. Right now the price is $17.99 + $3.00 shipping (again, only available for sale in the US.)
Fantastic video - thanks for taking the time to make it.
@OFFENSIVEWORDS LOL...I've been doing this stuff so long some things are just automatic, but yeah, you're right, it keeps the outside of the lever from getting scratched.
It's a 10spd Shimano Ultegra cassette stack on a mavic free-hub body.
Good to know! I've never had one come loose because I check that kind of stuff, but I've had friends' who've had the lockring work loose on a ride....no fun...
#1 not it is not necessary to keep the plastic "pie-plate" behind the spokes. (As long as your derailleur limit screws are properly adjusted.)
#2 The plastic disc is there to protect your spokes from damage if your chain jumps off the top sprocket. The plastic disc also helps keep the chain from becoming wedged in between the spokes and sprocket should it come off. But as stated in #1 if your derailleur limit screw are set correctly your chain should never jump off the top sprocket.
@210482fmj Is it the same freehub body with just new cassettes? I've seen plenty of variation between freehub bodies over the years.
@emile345 Yeah, just turn it until it's tight and then I like to go about 2-3 clicks of the teeth in the lockring cap past tight. Try it, you'll see. Torque wrench is great to have. I do use a torque wrench on the centerlock rotor caps. Just don't go crazy, you don't need to put a length of pipe on the end of the wrench or anything to tighten them...
You can buy a new hub and re-lace the wheel, but if the threads are stripped on the hub you're probably screwed. (Even if you were able to fix the threads by chasing them with a die you probably wouldn't have much left to work with.)
@darkmihai52 Do you mean cogs? I don't know what "raws" are....? If you remove one cog from a stack you end up with a sloppy loose stack. You can buy spacer kits to allow you to remove cogs and make a single speed, but you have to have some kind of spacer to take up the gap if you remove individual cogs.
You will need a 1" socket to fit the lockring tool if you are going to put a torque wrench on it.
@fwynn What spacer? The one behind the cassette stack? Those usually come with Shimano 10spd cassettes, you can get them from bike shops or the internet. Some new cassettes don't need them to fit on shimano free-hub bodies any more, I just got a new Sram 10spd stack and it was machined in such a way that it did not need any spacer behind it to torque down the cassette stack.
My short answer would be no. I hate to see good parts get boogered up, but you "can" do it with vise-grips, a hammer, and a screw driver. You will damage the parts though... If you're going to convert to a single speed and use the free-hub body and just run spacers before and after the single cog, you will still need the lockring cap.
@210482fmj Some cassette lockrings have a tighter interface than others. Manufacturing tolerances differ between manufacturers.
So what it sounds like is that you have a cassette free-hub that has a spacer kit so that there is only one sprocket on hub correct? If that is the case you will need a chain whip to hold the sprocket on freehub body still while you take off the lockring (to keep the freehub from spinning backwards). If you have a true freewheel you will need a freewheel remover.
@942doc1 A full shimano 9spd stack will not fit on a 7spd freehub. (It will fit on an 8spd freehub)
@bhdproduction2007 Nashbar has 10spd SRAM PG-1050 cassettes for $58.99 right now. You can also hit up eBay and get some pretty good deals. Those are my two go-to parts buying avenues.
@traxxasslash26 Only if you start messing with the lock nuts on the axle.
great video, i will change my own cassette from now on.
Muchas gracias, era algo que nunca supe como hacer.
Feliz año nuevo!
The clicking is from the prawls inside the freehub body ratcheting. Don't mess with it....Some brands are louder than others. What are you doing coasting!!?? That sounds there to remind you to pedal! j/k
I have a hyperglide C lockring and i do exactly as the video says but it only moves about a millimeter or so, any suggestions because I've been struggling to get this off for a couple of weeks now, and there is also some broken plastic that came out of the bearing area, maybe some plastic is stuck inside??????? any advise?????
Yup. Any cassette style rear end.
excellent! Very helpful video man! you haven't skipped a thing.. just what I wanted to see, Thanks!
Thanks, nice job! Good quality video and narration, I'm ready to do mine now.
Domes? You mean the sprocket (cassette) stack? They run anywhere from about $50 on up to $200 depending on what you want to spend for what level of quality...
Thank you for the video, I now know the rim is going to a bike shop, I dont have the tools, thanks!
If you don't use a spacer you won't be able to tighten the cassette cogs down with the lockring. There should be no play at all in the cogs when you tighten the lockring down. If the cogs are loose your shifting will be horrible and the loose cogs will damage the body of the freehub.
Thank you WheeliePete. This was very informative.
Thanks! I appreciate it. The screwdrive and hammer method is just awful and ends up costing you more money in the long run when you have to replace the parts you hammered on...
@WheeliePete Thanks, spot on, the bigger spacer did the trick!
Great vid, broke a spoke, so the casette needed to come off, but I'd never done it before. Watched the vid, dropped the tool in place, and off it came, undamaged... Now if I only had gotten the right length spoke... *sigh*
@epeng99 I'll see if I can get a video made soon for removing the external bearing cranks.
@WheeliePete thanks that is just what I did and I got it changed and it works great now I can climb the mountains
@francedad Yes, I know, I know...but let's not be too picky here. We're not talking about a 400# torque value.... :-) When I was working in shops we'd always ask for the "Fits-none Strips-all" when we wanted someone to hand us the adjustable wrench...lol