I bought this and it fixed my issue. Very easy to install. Follow instructions on this video and you will be fine. Thank you Dorman, you saved me a boat load of money.
THANK YOU. My issue was not with the connector, but with a gear inside the unit that lost a tooth. Fixed in under 30 mins. Just discovered you sell the actuators also. Heading out to buy one now. Got it, installed it. Working great. Thanks again for the video.
Be very careful when screwing into the actuator arm. Mine did not screw in nearly as easily as in the video. Tried using the 3/8” extension as recommended and before I had the screw fully in something broke inside the unit.
Nice Video! Just one question, what size torx bit is required? Also, while you showed how to perform relocation procedure, you did it on the bench and not in the vehicle as most of us would need to. Maybe redo the video? And more importantly, what is the part number and link for these kits???
Hi there, you can find more detail on these and similar kits here: www.dormanproducts.com/gsearch.aspx?type=keyword&origin=keyword&parttype=HVAC%2520Blend%2520Door%2520Repair%2520Kit
On the driver's side, the white plastic piece that the servo attaches is falling inside the blend box unit. Like it just keeps pushing in. My guess is that shaft broke inside. The blend door can be manually operated from the passenger side. Any idea if the relocation kit will help with this scenario? I can't quite tell what is actually broken.
Hi Stephen, these are the the part links from the video. Once you find the part that you are looking for, there is a "where to buy" button. After clicking that button, it will ask you to put in your zip code where it will then show the closest auto parts stores near you that carry that part. Part #: 604-386: www.dormanproducts.com/p-135203-604-386.aspx 604-387: www.dormanproducts.com/p-135060-604-387.aspx 604-388: www.dormanproducts.com/p-135204-604-388.aspx
I have the issue where my single zone actuator works, it has some deficiency but once of fully rotates into full ac I still get hot air of the pass side
@@DormanProducts today I removed everything inside the truck, everything.... Checked functionally on all actuators, 1, 2 on driver side, center actuator for rear vents and 1 passenger side and 1 for fan blower. All of them worked properly after CLEANING all the gunk and lightly lubing contact points to avoid sticking. Replace foam to seal crevasses. Still nothing... While testing though I realized the heater core lines go under and somewhat around the main duct from blower fan and all the way to the heater core with NO INSULATION. Found the job I did with the draining line lol. Anyways, so, no mechanical issues and CC console works, all ducts are sealed but the heat coming out from the heater core and lines is way too much. I'll temp shut off the lines from the outside and see if that helps by not producing the extra heat.... Any other suggestions?
Good question! The parts that the video reference are the door fix kits themselves, not the actuators. However, if you would like to recalibrate actuators after the repair, you would use a scan tool to do so.
I am working on a pos 08 jeep liberty. The front dash vents have little to no air coming from them. It does have floor that seems continuous. The defrost is fine as well. I have removed the actuator and it looks fine and operated fine as well, just doesn't move to front vents. There is no info as to this issue anywhere on utube or at least I can't find it. I have Manually moved the deal the actuator is placed on, but still nothing. Any ideas??? Thanks
Hello, if you do not think it is the actuator, then we would recommend you make sure their isn't something physically wrong with the door the actuator is attached to, causing it not to travel to the spot it needs to allow air out the dash vents.
@@DormanProducts I'm hoping that the entire dash doesn't need to be removed. I have seen a few vids of them cutting out a section of plastic to visibly see the flapper, but that is a bit more of a task than I'm able to get accomplished. Man jeep dodge sure screwed this type of deal up. Actually most manufacturers did. This is, and has been a horrible process. Any other ideas as to how to get to the flapper would be of great help. Thank you.
Because you are changing the direction the actuator motor is turning. On the drivers side, if it is turning clockwise (right) for the door to open, then on the passenger side (the motor flipped 180 degrees) it has to turn counter-clockwise (left) to get the same door motion. If you didn't change the motor direction by flipping the wires (changing polarity), then the actuator would turn the wrong way.
I have a 2010 jeep commander and have dual controls! On the passenger side, when I turn the heat on ac comes out , when I turn on the ac heat comes out ! I was told by every mechanic I talked to
Every mechanic I talked to said you have to remove the whole entire dashboard to fix the problem and told me it's $1000 just to remove the dashboard ?? Yes or no???
Hi Stephen, do you know if it is it the arm controlling the actuator door or is it the actuator motor itself. We offer both parts, part #604-388 is the arm for the door and part #604-006 is the actuator itself. You could need one or both of those.
I have a 2008 Jeep Liberty, and no air come out from the front vents only the ones by the windshield. I have a single, temp control that sit in the middle of two knobs. Could this be my problem as well? From your video it sure seems that way. Please help
@@DormanProducts thanks, I took it all apart and everything looks fine as far as that part. It looks like it is the flapper plastic hinge peices that might be broken. I'm still attempting to dig in to this. Ugh
Hello, I have the very same problem with my 2005 Jeep Grand Cherokee 5.7L with dual AC zones control. My vehicle VIN is 1J4HR58255C561810. I'll greatly appreciate if you could let me know the correct references for the appropriate repair kit for this vehicle. Thanks.
@@CAPZATTACK610 Grand Cherokee Laredo 5.7L. My passenger side little cheap plastic piece snapped and so did the replacement. Crazy ass dealership is asking $2800 and it’s all because of labor. But it’s the rubber from the blend door that has melted and constantly gets stuck. I can unsick it manually but then the actuator turns and resicks it. So if the little cheap plastic piece that is between the blend door knob and the actuator had a couple extra millimeters of meat on it at the heat side, I’m pretty sure it’s be a temporary fix for some time. But that’s the problem
Dorman to the rescue again ! I love dealing with a company that manufactures a better part than OE and saves me money . Thanks Dorman
So glad to hear that Mike!
I love this information I love how you giving exact information for each step and type a problem or system thank you😊
I bought this and it fixed my issue. Very easy to install. Follow instructions on this video and you will be fine. Thank you Dorman, you saved me a boat load of money.
So great to hear Luis!
THANK YOU. My issue was not with the connector, but with a gear inside the unit that lost a tooth. Fixed in under 30 mins.
Just discovered you sell the actuators also. Heading out to buy one now.
Got it, installed it. Working great. Thanks again for the video.
So glad we could help!
Be very careful when screwing into the actuator arm. Mine did not screw in nearly as easily as in the video. Tried using the 3/8” extension as recommended and before I had the screw fully in something broke inside the unit.
Thank you.!!
In Los Angeles, Ca. where I could go for a repair,
En Jeep liberty 2012 jet, no sale aire caliente al accionar la perilla
Not sure why they are showing a product that is not available anywhere?
Nice Video! Just one question, what size torx bit is required? Also, while you showed how to perform relocation procedure, you did it on the bench and not in the vehicle as most of us would need to. Maybe redo the video? And more importantly, what is the part number and link for these kits???
Hi there, you can find more detail on these and similar kits here: www.dormanproducts.com/gsearch.aspx?type=keyword&origin=keyword&parttype=HVAC%2520Blend%2520Door%2520Repair%2520Kit
T20
I broke the shaft on the passenger side while replacing the heater core,fix one thing break more things , it's just the way she goes
Ugh, seriously. Hope this helps.
Does this also work for a 2010 Jeep Liberty? I’m fairly certain this is the same issue.
Hi Lucas, unfortunately no. Those parts are only made for a Grand Cherokee or the Commander.
On the driver's side, the white plastic piece that the servo attaches is falling inside the blend box unit. Like it just keeps pushing in. My guess is that shaft broke inside. The blend door can be manually operated from the passenger side. Any idea if the relocation kit will help with this scenario? I can't quite tell what is actually broken.
Hi Korey, what vehicle are you working on?
@@DormanProducts2005 Commander
if the shaft breaks you're not getting a drill in there at all so box has to come out!
Why does Chrysler dodge jeep say you need a new housing! &470 2013 jeep patriot latitude?
Plus I need the arm ,it was broken . Where can I order those parts the kit and the arm ?
Hi Stephen, these are the the part links from the video. Once you find the part that you are looking for, there is a "where to buy" button. After clicking that button, it will ask you to put in your zip code where it will then show the closest auto parts stores near you that carry that part.
Part #:
604-386: www.dormanproducts.com/p-135203-604-386.aspx
604-387: www.dormanproducts.com/p-135060-604-387.aspx
604-388: www.dormanproducts.com/p-135204-604-388.aspx
I have the issue where my single zone actuator works, it has some deficiency but once of fully rotates into full ac I still get hot air of the pass side
Hi Daniel, can you please tell me your year, make and model vehicle, along with the part # you installed?
@@DormanProducts today I removed everything inside the truck, everything.... Checked functionally on all actuators, 1, 2 on driver side, center actuator for rear vents and 1 passenger side and 1 for fan blower. All of them worked properly after CLEANING all the gunk and lightly lubing contact points to avoid sticking. Replace foam to seal crevasses. Still nothing... While testing though I realized the heater core lines go under and somewhat around the main duct from blower fan and all the way to the heater core with NO INSULATION. Found the job I did with the draining line lol. Anyways, so, no mechanical issues and CC console works, all ducts are sealed but the heat coming out from the heater core and lines is way too much. I'll temp shut off the lines from the outside and see if that helps by not producing the extra heat.... Any other suggestions?
What size torque screws? Replacing mine and there were no screw holding old actuator in place
Unfortunately, we do not offer those screws so we cannot give a size.
How do you recalibrate the actuators to all be synchronized ?
Good question! The parts that the video reference are the door fix kits themselves, not the actuators. However, if you would like to recalibrate actuators after the repair, you would use a scan tool to do so.
I am working on a pos 08 jeep liberty. The front dash vents have little to no air coming from them. It does have floor that seems continuous. The defrost is fine as well. I have removed the actuator and it looks fine and operated fine as well, just doesn't move to front vents. There is no info as to this issue anywhere on utube or at least I can't find it. I have Manually moved the deal the actuator is placed on, but still nothing.
Any ideas???
Thanks
Hello, if you do not think it is the actuator, then we would recommend you make sure their isn't something physically wrong with the door the actuator is attached to, causing it not to travel to the spot it needs to allow air out the dash vents.
@@DormanProducts I'm hoping that the entire dash doesn't need to be removed. I have seen a few vids of them cutting out a section of plastic to visibly see the flapper, but that is a bit more of a task than I'm able to get accomplished.
Man jeep dodge sure screwed this type of deal up. Actually most manufacturers did. This is, and has been a horrible process.
Any other ideas as to how to get to the flapper would be of great help.
Thank you.
Unfortunately, we do not have any other ideas than what you suggested because everything you said was exactly right.
does this work for 2015 jeep cherokee trailhawk?
Unfortunately, we do not list blend door repair kits for your vehicle. I will let the product team know of your new product idea. Thank you!
Why do the wires for the relocation adapter have to be swapped for the module?
Hi Jacob, good question! That is how the part was engineered and designed. For successful install switching the wires must be followed.
Because you are changing the direction the actuator motor is turning. On the drivers side, if it is turning clockwise (right) for the door to open, then on the passenger side (the motor flipped 180 degrees) it has to turn counter-clockwise (left) to get the same door motion. If you didn't change the motor direction by flipping the wires (changing polarity), then the actuator would turn the wrong way.
I have a 2010 jeep commander and have dual controls! On the passenger side, when I turn the heat on ac comes out , when I turn on the ac heat comes out ! I was told by every mechanic I talked to
Every mechanic I talked to said you have to remove the whole entire dashboard to fix the problem and told me it's $1000 just to remove the dashboard ?? Yes or no???
Hi Stephen, do you know if it is it the arm controlling the actuator door or is it the actuator motor itself. We offer both parts, part #604-388 is the arm for the door and part #604-006 is the actuator itself. You could need one or both of those.
Not sure , I have not pulled the glove box out yet , I'll the watch the video again , and pull the glove box out so I'll know what part is what ?
I followed the video and I need the kit to drill the shaft
I have a 2008 Jeep Liberty, and no air come out from the front vents only the ones by the windshield. I have a single, temp control that sit in the middle of two knobs. Could this be my problem as well? From your video it sure seems that way. Please help
I am guessing here , but wouldn't this kit fit a 08 liberty as well.? All the parts you were working on look Exactly the same.
Thanks.
Hello! Here are all the parts we offer for a 2008 Jeep Liberty! www.dormanproducts.com/gsearch.aspx?year=2008&make=Jeep&model=Liberty&origin=YMM
@@DormanProducts thanks, I took it all apart and everything looks fine as far as that part.
It looks like it is the flapper plastic hinge peices that might be broken.
I'm still attempting to dig in to this.
Ugh
Will this work for a durango
Hi Alan, can we have the year of your durango and which hvac door you are working on?
Hello, I have the very same problem with my 2005 Jeep Grand Cherokee 5.7L with dual AC zones control. My vehicle VIN is 1J4HR58255C561810. I'll greatly appreciate if you could let me know the correct references for the appropriate repair kit for this vehicle. Thanks.
Hi Martin, the 604-388 works for the dual zone temp control as a repair! www.dormanproducts.com/p-135204-604-388.aspx?origin=keyword
What about jeeps 2011-up
Hi Michael, which model 2011+ Jeep have you seen this failure on? Was the failure exactly as these repairs fix?
@@CAPZATTACK610 Grand Cherokee Laredo 5.7L. My passenger side little cheap plastic piece snapped and so did the replacement. Crazy ass dealership is asking $2800 and it’s all because of labor. But it’s the rubber from the blend door that has melted and constantly gets stuck. I can unsick it manually but then the actuator turns and resicks it. So if the little cheap plastic piece that is between the blend door knob and the actuator had a couple extra millimeters of meat on it at the heat side, I’m pretty sure it’s be a temporary fix for some time. But that’s the problem
ANYONE THERE?????????
It's impossible to purchase these pieces 🤬🤬