I watched way too many of these. This is the only one that mentioned the moving the bar back and forth ,up and down. That’s all it took to complete the task. Much thanks!
thank you Chris, I've replaced my gimbal a few times and never realized that it pivots. That explains why I have had trouble aligning it. I just replaced my gimbal bearing and was struggling to get the alignment and after watching you pivot the bearing in the vise I tried it and it popped loose and then I was able to get the alignment perfect, thanks again.
Excellent explanation I didn’t realize that thing pivots up and down side to side wow appreciate your post in the video Excellent information The alignment tool is absolutely necessary I’m still convinced now
just replaced my gimbal bearing and totally lost confidence when the alignment was way of afterwords, all nightmare thoughts like did i damage the transom, now i understand that you can move the gimbal bearing so this video is really helpful and strange that this is not mentioned in most videos showing gimbal bearing replacement.
My Volvo SX-A had the original sealed bearing facing forward. I had no water in the bellows, but I picked up a vibration at idle, so my mechanic suggested the gimbal bearing. When I reached in by hand and spun the bearing it felt like it had a slight whirr so I changed it. I am hoping it is the bearing and not the outdrive. Thanks for the video! Very helpful.
Great video. However, at 1:16 into the video, and again at 1:26, Chris is mistaken. These open areas (in the outer housing) are to face AFT so that the bearing itself can be turned and removed.
No, he is not. Merc SPECIFICALLY require the slots to face forward so the bearing can't be removed without taking the carrier out. The carrier and bearing are matched in the assembly process, and to replace just the bearing (as was being done in the 70s and 80s) causes more problems than it solved. Merc saw a rise in the number of gimbal bearing problems caused by replacing just the bearing, and since fitting the bearing with the slots forward, there are now very few 'gimbal bearing issues' apart from water ingress (usually caused by perforated bellows). DO NOT install the bearing with the slots facing back.
@@Chris-hx3om Ok so if the bearing was originally designed for the slots to face aft and nobody in this entire planet will ever buy just the bearing without a kit (bearing race carrier) what difference does it make? My Haynes manual clearly shows slots facing aft. Clockwise, counterclockwise. Seem a non issue. 1000,000,000 dollar question: Will it perform any differently? Thanks for the video Chris.
Great video explaining how a gimbal bearing works. I have purchased 2 gimbal bearings to replace in my sterndrive. When I secured the bearings in the vice and installed the alignment tool to swivel the bearing in the carrier it would not budge. I was afraid of breaking the carrier if I forced it anymore. Neither bearing would move inside the carrier as shown in the video. I even called and spoke to 2 different people who manufacture the Sierra bearing that I purchased and they were unable to explain or help me. Please can anyone help me in this very frustrating situation. I'm pulling my hair out!!
I have now purchased 3 new gimbal bearings. None of them swivel or pivot as shown in the video. I would break the carrier that contains the actual bearing if I held it in a vice and used the alignment tool to move the bearing as in the video. So here is what I did. I don't know if its advised or the proper thing to do. I saw in another you tube video, how to remove the bearing from the carrier. Using a fine emery cloth I removed small amounts of the inner surface that the bearing rides on. Its made of an aluminum alloy type of material ( quit soft). I then cleaned the surface thoroughly put some lube on the surfaces and carefully reinstalled the bearing into the carrier. Placed it back in the vice and tried to rotate the bearing. I went through this process 5 or 6 times. It takes some patience for sure. Finally I had removed enough material that I can now move the bearing as the video shows. The word gimbal means that it should move as in a gimbal compass on your boat for navigation purposes. I even called the manufacturers of the gimbal bearings and their people didn't know what I was talking about. They should not refer to their bearing as a GIMBAL bearing if it doesn't swivel. Just call it a bearing.@@jacquesmichel1269
No difference between sealed and greaseable (as far as strength or 'superiority'). Just with the sealed, you 'set and forget'. How long a sealed bearing will last depends on how often you let water into the bellows. How often they should be replaced is dependent on when water gets into the bellows. Generally, a sealed bearing and a greaseable bearing (that is being greased properly and on schedule) will last a very long time. 20 years is not unusual.
It's called a 'tolerance ring'. If you're installing a sealed bearing, it doesn't matter if it moves. If you have a Sierra bearing that's greaseable (take it back and get a Merc sealed bearing), then it should be firm enough to not move.
Do not replace gimbal bearings as a 'preventative' measure. The bearing will outlast the boat, provided water doesn't enter the bellows. If water gets in, you'll be replacing the gimbal bearing, the uni joints and probably the yoke seal... And having a sealed bearing or a greaseable bearing will make no difference at that point. I'll say it one more time for good measure... You DO NOT need to replace the gimbal bearing as a 'preventative measure'. It's unnecessary and a complete waste of money. When I sold my last engine (at 12 years old) it was still on the original bearing, and the current engine is now 14 years old, and still with the original bearing...
I just pulled my sterndrive apart in order to replace 2 torn bellows. The gimble bearing on my Merc has the 2 slots facing the rear of the boat. So you see the slots when bearing is installed. Do you think someone has been in there before and installed it incorrectly? Also, my drive is the "pre Alpha" (1976) Will the gimble bearing be the same as the Aplha 1 Gen 1? I need to order a kit that has the bellows and bearing. Thank you!
@@splash5974 Originally Merc were installing the bearings with the slots facing aft. A lot of people were then replacing just the bearing cartridge without the carrier (which are a matched pair), and this caused problems. In the mid 80's Merc changed the way they installed the bearing so that it could not be removed without pulling the carrier out with the cartridge... So having a 1976 with the slots facing aft is normal. If you pull the bearing out, replace the whole thing (with the carrier), and put it in with the slots facing the bow. Your drive is an MC1, not a 'pre-Alpha'. There is no such thing as a 'pre-Alpha'. It's a term that some moron on youtube came up with to describe drives before the Alpha One, but the drive immediately before the Alpha one (the MR) is EXACTLY the same as an Alpha One. Calling an MR and an MC1 the same thing ('pre-Alpha') is like saying that a Ford model T and a horse are the same thing because they are both 'pre-Camaro'. There were 16 different drives before the Alpha One was released in 1986. And yes, the gimbal bearing hasn't changed since the late 60s.
I watched way too many of these. This is the only one that mentioned the moving the bar back and forth ,up and down. That’s all it took to complete the task. Much thanks!
thank you Chris, I've replaced my gimbal a few times and never realized that it pivots. That explains why I have had trouble aligning it. I just replaced my gimbal bearing and was struggling to get the alignment and after watching you pivot the bearing in the vise I tried it and it popped loose and then I was able to get the alignment perfect, thanks again.
Excellent explanation I didn’t realize that thing pivots up and down side to side wow appreciate your post in the video
Excellent information The alignment tool is absolutely necessary I’m still convinced now
just replaced my gimbal bearing and totally lost confidence when the alignment was way of afterwords, all nightmare thoughts like did i damage the transom, now i understand that you can move the gimbal bearing so this video is really helpful and strange that this is not mentioned in most videos showing gimbal bearing replacement.
Great explanation. Looks like it articulates like an outer CV joint.
My Volvo SX-A had the original sealed bearing facing forward. I had no water in the bellows, but I picked up a vibration at idle, so my mechanic suggested the gimbal bearing. When I reached in by hand and spun the bearing it felt like it had a slight whirr so I changed it. I am hoping it is the bearing and not the outdrive. Thanks for the video! Very helpful.
clearest explanation on video ive seen so far, thanks
Thank you so much! You taught me a thing or two!!
Great video. However, at 1:16 into the video, and again at 1:26, Chris is mistaken. These open areas (in the outer housing) are to face AFT so that the bearing itself can be turned and removed.
No, he is not. Merc SPECIFICALLY require the slots to face forward so the bearing can't be removed without taking the carrier out. The carrier and bearing are matched in the assembly process, and to replace just the bearing (as was being done in the 70s and 80s) causes more problems than it solved. Merc saw a rise in the number of gimbal bearing problems caused by replacing just the bearing, and since fitting the bearing with the slots forward, there are now very few 'gimbal bearing issues' apart from water ingress (usually caused by perforated bellows). DO NOT install the bearing with the slots facing back.
@@Chris-hx3om Ok so if the bearing was originally designed for the slots to face aft and nobody in this entire planet will ever buy just the bearing without a kit (bearing race carrier) what difference does it make? My Haynes manual clearly shows slots facing aft. Clockwise, counterclockwise. Seem a non issue. 1000,000,000 dollar question: Will it perform any differently? Thanks for the video Chris.
Thanks for that. You nailed it.
Great video explaining how a gimbal bearing works. I have purchased 2 gimbal bearings to replace in my sterndrive. When I secured the bearings in the vice and installed the alignment tool to swivel the bearing in the carrier it would not budge. I was afraid of breaking the carrier if I forced it anymore. Neither bearing would move inside the carrier as shown in the video. I even called and spoke to 2 different people who manufacture the Sierra bearing that I purchased and they were unable to explain or help me. Please can anyone help me in this very frustrating situation. I'm pulling my hair out!!
I have exactly the same problem i can't find bearing for my volvo sx-m i'm going crazy
I have now purchased 3 new gimbal bearings. None of them swivel or pivot as shown in the video. I would break the carrier that contains the actual bearing if I held it in a vice and used the alignment tool to move the bearing as in the video. So here is what I did. I don't know if its advised or the proper thing to do. I saw in another you tube video, how to remove the bearing from the carrier. Using a fine emery cloth I removed small amounts of the inner surface that the bearing rides on. Its made of an aluminum alloy type of material ( quit soft). I then cleaned the surface thoroughly put some lube on the surfaces and carefully reinstalled the bearing into the carrier. Placed it back in the vice and tried to rotate the bearing. I went through this process 5 or 6 times. It takes some patience for sure. Finally I had removed enough material that I can now move the bearing as the video shows. The word gimbal means that it should move as in a gimbal compass on your boat for navigation purposes. I even called the manufacturers of the gimbal bearings and their people didn't know what I was talking about. They should not refer to their bearing as a GIMBAL bearing if it doesn't swivel. Just call it a bearing.@@jacquesmichel1269
Brilliant video thank you
Thank you sir.
Great vid.
Is a sealed gimbal bearing superior or stronger to a greasable bearing? How long should each last? Or how often should they be replaced?
No difference between sealed and greaseable (as far as strength or 'superiority'). Just with the sealed, you 'set and forget'. How long a sealed bearing will last depends on how often you let water into the bellows. How often they should be replaced is dependent on when water gets into the bellows. Generally, a sealed bearing and a greaseable bearing (that is being greased properly and on schedule) will last a very long time. 20 years is not unusual.
@@chrisa660 thank you 😊
Great , thanks.
Great explanation. Thanks for posting.
What's the ring around the bearing for? Mine keeps movin out as I'm installing bearing
It's called a 'tolerance ring'. If you're installing a sealed bearing, it doesn't matter if it moves. If you have a Sierra bearing that's greaseable (take it back and get a Merc sealed bearing), then it should be firm enough to not move.
Thank you. How often do you recommend that the gimbal bearing be replaced as preventative maintenance?
Do not replace gimbal bearings as a 'preventative' measure. The bearing will outlast the boat, provided water doesn't enter the bellows. If water gets in, you'll be replacing the gimbal bearing, the uni joints and probably the yoke seal... And having a sealed bearing or a greaseable bearing will make no difference at that point. I'll say it one more time for good measure... You DO NOT need to replace the gimbal bearing as a 'preventative measure'. It's unnecessary and a complete waste of money. When I sold my last engine (at 12 years old) it was still on the original bearing, and the current engine is now 14 years old, and still with the original bearing...
@@chrisa660 thank you 😊
Confusing video.In your explanation of orientation of which way does the bearing go is wrong.
How so? I pointed out very clearly that the slots in the carrier face the FRONT of the boat. How is that wrong?
I just pulled my sterndrive apart in order to replace 2 torn bellows. The gimble bearing on my Merc has the 2 slots facing the rear of the boat. So you see the slots when bearing is installed.
Do you think someone has been in there before and installed it incorrectly?
Also, my drive is the "pre Alpha" (1976)
Will the gimble bearing be the same as the Aplha 1 Gen 1?
I need to order a kit that has the bellows and bearing.
Thank you!
@@splash5974 Originally Merc were installing the bearings with the slots facing aft. A lot of people were then replacing just the bearing cartridge without the carrier (which are a matched pair), and this caused problems. In the mid 80's Merc changed the way they installed the bearing so that it could not be removed without pulling the carrier out with the cartridge... So having a 1976 with the slots facing aft is normal. If you pull the bearing out, replace the whole thing (with the carrier), and put it in with the slots facing the bow.
Your drive is an MC1, not a 'pre-Alpha'. There is no such thing as a 'pre-Alpha'. It's a term that some moron on youtube came up with to describe drives before the Alpha One, but the drive immediately before the Alpha one (the MR) is EXACTLY the same as an Alpha One. Calling an MR and an MC1 the same thing ('pre-Alpha') is like saying that a Ford model T and a horse are the same thing because they are both 'pre-Camaro'. There were 16 different drives before the Alpha One was released in 1986.
And yes, the gimbal bearing hasn't changed since the late 60s.