Soldering the 3x3 Hotswap Build
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- čas přidán 4. 09. 2024
- Part of a project launched from an innovation pitch at work, I've finally got around to soldering in the Kailh hotswap sockets, and the pro-micro.
The hotswaps were super easy to put on with their SMD mount, and a pro-micro is simple as ever to solder on.
I've done a design for the case, and printed the first prototype, but the shrink in the print meant it didn't fit (the print ended up being 1mm too small in most dimensions!) so I'll have to run some tweaks in the model and try printing again.
In any case, you can also check out the pictures from the initial design and print on our instagram :)
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I came here to see how kailh hot swaps get soldered and you did the pro micro too
It's like a two for one! 😄
Glad it helped and saved you time! haha
Do hot swap work without diodo?
Due to the small number of switches in my matrix (9), it does not need diodes since there are enough pins for each switch to have a unique pin for both row and column. You only require the addition of diodes when you start to use common pins for a row, column, or both rows and columns.
The use of the hotswap only replaces the need to solder and desolder switches, everything else in the way the matrix works stays the same.
thanks, is it possible use kailh hotswap without pcb?
Sure, you can handwire, but its a bit more challenging. You would need to put your switches through a plate, install the hotswap, and then solder diodes and wires onto the pads of the hotswaps. imgur.com/a/NFyi0#Q9f0s90 shows that its been considered and does work.
In which other PCB I can use this kind of kailh socket ??
I can't answer that for you, I don't have a list on hand of the PCBs designed to take the kailh sockets unfortunately :(
Generally avoid reheating soldered joints. If you think a soldered joint isn't good, just desolder and solder it afresh.
You must use liquid flux for reheating soldered joints, or the joint will get oxidised and deteriorate. This can cause anything from connection issues to mechanically weak joints.
This video should explain why: czcams.com/video/WWSD3eXSdTk/video.html
Thank you for the comment and interesting video. I can say that since I don't burn off all of the rosin core when I solder my joints, and when I reflow my joints, they definitely don't have that oxidised look or wrinkle, I'm not very concerned about it at all.
As for 'must', thats really not an issue either. I have had no connection issues, and mechanically weak joints is even less of an issue for builds in my experience.
That said, I am not being dismissive of the message here, it is personal choice in that for context of use, out of thousands of joints I have prepared on my boards this way, the symptoms being demonstrated and described are not an issue for me.
Other viewers may want to resolder if they want to, and I do know others who use plenty of flux, I simply do not for my builds.
Your better of watch other soldering vids from electronic guys I like you but I'm trying to be honest I'm kind of OCD when it comes to soldering.
I would much rather pre tin the pads use liquid flux and the. Solder the partand use flux for god sake.
And oh yeah I know the solder has a rosin core..
So watch more smd soldering vids
Thank you for the feedback TuxKey, I appreciate it. I do not do much SMD soldering at all, and as such, I do not currently own any flux at all since my standard through-hole components work just fine using rosin core.
I do not claim to be professional SMD soldering, so as a hobby-ist, I hope those who watch realise that!
As for getting some flux, if I anticipate a lot of SMD work, it would probably be on the shopping list.
Cheers.
@@theboard You generally don't have to be that generous with flux when you have flux core solder. I only add it when the solder looks "dry" if that makes sense, or I willl go back and touch up with flux if I want some spots to look neater. Have had many successful keyboard and macro pad builds without always using extra flux.
Tinning pads can also lead to unevenness of the component if you do more than one contact point. From my experience it is only necessary for one contact point to be tinned when components are surface mountable and wont stay in place like these components do because they fall through the hole in the back and lock in place; I think you did as perfect of a job as you could have.
@@iamnotmadok Thanks for the feedback Madison, much appreciated. I still actually don't have any flux, and having done a SMD build Ergodox now, I did actually find excessive tinning was an issue too so correlates with your comment and experience well :)