I removed a fitting from 1" PVC pipe at the bottom of a hole in the yard today. Since the PVC is rated for 140 degrees F, that is the temp I set on on my heat gun. It turned out to be adequate to soften the fitting enough peel it off. The cut in the side is critical! The solvent cement softens but is still wayeeee strong against shear forces (i.e. resisting rotation or sliding of the fitting on the pipe). But the cement is reasonably easily defeated by peeling the fitting off.
I have put a wet piece of shop rag on the inside of the pipe to help keep the inner pipe cooler and then if you overheat the outside pipe it is less likely to melt the inner pipe. I like the insert fitting trick so well done. Of course, I have also been known to use cement on the inside and light them on fire a few times (learned that one from my Dad years ago). I now use a heat gun on the few that I end up having to remove.
When you took the pipe off can the pipe still attached to the bath be re- used? Also how do you clean up the pipe that was welded if it can be re-used? Many Thanks Ian
@@kevinmcauley By the look of it, we use a different glue than you. It actually melts the fitting and the pipe together and becomes one piece of plastic, so there's no chance you can separate them like that. I might be wrong, which is why I used a question mark, but I can't see that working on any pipework I've ever done.
@@michaelbirchall2247 these are solvent welded. In this case i believe the original fitting was installed with a clear medium body glue. After preparing the surface for a new fitting, we used heavy body hot glue.
There is nothing genius about the procedure in this video. Actually with the fairly good access he had the job should have been done in less than half the time. His use of the pliers/channel lock was rather clumsy.
Fantastic!!!! Tried this this morning. Worked like a champ. And took about 5 minutes. Thank you sir for sharing.
I removed a fitting from 1" PVC pipe at the bottom of a hole in the yard today. Since the PVC is rated for 140 degrees F, that is the temp I set on on my heat gun. It turned out to be adequate to soften the fitting enough peel it off. The cut in the side is critical! The solvent cement softens but is still wayeeee strong against shear forces (i.e. resisting rotation or sliding of the fitting on the pipe). But the cement is reasonably easily defeated by peeling the fitting off.
I have put a wet piece of shop rag on the inside of the pipe to help keep the inner pipe cooler and then if you overheat the outside pipe it is less likely to melt the inner pipe. I like the insert fitting trick so well done. Of course, I have also been known to use cement on the inside and light them on fire a few times (learned that one from my Dad years ago). I now use a heat gun on the few that I end up having to remove.
Good idea
thank you for sharing your knowledge !!!! i have 3 options and this will be my first option
Excellent bro, marvelous
helpful, thanks.
Great job!!
Thank you!
Does this work with abs? I have a leak at a joint in a 4 way junction in a 2" abs drain pipe. Thanks
That’s what I wanted to see I had made a mistake on PVC and tomorrow I’m going to fix it
Always wondered if this affects the structural integrity of the pipe?
If you over heat it and over manipulate it, it could damaged the pipe by creating thin spots. Don't do that.
When you took the pipe off can the pipe still attached to the bath be re- used? Also how do you clean up the pipe that was welded if it can be re-used? Many Thanks Ian
Yes the old pipe can be used. It can be cleaned with some sand paper if needed, but once the old fitting is off it should be good to go.
@@kevinmcauley thanks
What do you do if you can't get to the back side of the pipe??
I would use a pipe extender in that case
How do you call the tool you used for this? I have a laptop that was "welded" and I want to reverse this tragedy if possible
A heat gun
@@kevinmcauley Thank you!
What is the temperature?
Medium
I did it once, but the end of the pipe expanded, and I couldn't insert another fitting on it.
too much heat, you just want to keep the outer fitting from cracking, not melt the inner pipe
500 megawatts of electricity later!
I'm not sure that is how megawatts work.
This wouldn't work in the UK?
What do you mean?
@@kevinmcauley By the look of it, we use a different glue than you. It actually melts the fitting and the pipe together and becomes one piece of plastic, so there's no chance you can separate them like that. I might be wrong, which is why I used a question mark, but I can't see that working on any pipework I've ever done.
@@michaelbirchall2247 these are solvent welded. In this case i believe the original fitting was installed with a clear medium body glue. After preparing the surface for a new fitting, we used heavy body hot glue.
Well that's one way to save a buck and waste 20 mins.
Thanks for the feedback. In this case we saved $235 and it only took 6 minutes, as opposed to the 90 minutes replacing the valve would have taken.
There is nothing genius about the procedure in this video. Actually with the fairly good access he had the job should have been done in less than half the time. His use of the pliers/channel lock was rather clumsy.
Thanks for watching