DIY Lift Bed V2 for Cargo Trailer
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- čas přidán 8. 09. 2024
- Hello all, this is a new video on my updated bed. This is v2 of my elevator bed in my Cargo trailer. If you are interested to see another solution take a look at my previous version with a boat winch.
I used mainly Pine boards and some Aluminum to build the bed.
The crank was sourced from Wayfair www.wayfair.ca...
The center brace is from Ikea www.ikea.com/c...
Metric Bore Diameter Mounted Ball Bearing Alloy Pillow Block Bore Diameter: 25Mm
Want to thank you for giving me all the ideas I used
Domingorides
elaeroplano
Life of YVI and ROB
This is exactly what I’ve been looking for. I will be duplicating your plans. Thanks for posting. Kudos to your ingenuity.
Thanks for the words. If you haven't already seen the two bed videos make sure you check them out.
Ditto on that! I just purchased my crank and rod.
Having a turnbuckle on each cord is a perfect way to adjust for even length/tension so it lifts evenly.
One of the best versions I've seen yet
Thank you
Absolutely Awesome! Easy, and Simple!
Best lift bed that I have seen on youtube. Works and is simple enough not to fail. Top marks for thinking with this one.
Thanks for the comment
Nice work. Thanks for sharing.
Wow so simple but very effective
Genius!
i wanna see it go up !
nice design!
Thank you for your video. As stated by EricCGran....exactly what I've lookin for; sleek, functional, looks good, cost effective.
Brilliant!
Interesting, did you post somewhere who made the trailer. I like the door in the nose of the trailer. I wanna copy that.
I got the trailer made by the Canadian Trailer Company in Goderich, Ontario, Canada
Congrats on a fantastic design - I’ve been researching my own similar bed and was intending to use a 12v worm motor but now I’ve seen your awning crank I think this is the way forward - cleaner and simpler. Any update since the winter? Would love to know how it’s working out. Cheers.
Hey there Richard. Well, we have been out several times now with the new bed and I am loving it. I have had to adjust a couple basic things based on the frame lowering to my supports but other than that going up and down has been smooth. I am still working on the best manual crank handle instead of using a drill all the time but not a deal breaker at all. Super happy. One suggestion is that you make a simple cover for the hoop on the awning crank if you leave it hanging below the frame. I will be just cutting a small piece of foam to slip over it to avoid whacking a head on the metal.
@@liveandbreatheeasy good plan. I might look at whether it’s possible to fit an eye with a universal joint and then tuck it behind the frame when not in use.
@@richardblack2927 I am loving this design also!
I am thinking that for my build I am going to remove the hoop and put a dc motor on it so I can hide all that stuff, also I plan to mount the motor and shaft up at the ceiling hidden in a box that way I don’t have wires traveling up and down with the bed.
Thanks for the comments@@1966cambo. I decided not to put a motor on it because a lot of the time we don't camp with electrical sights and I always wanted a way to move it if power wasn't an option. I built a simple wood crack for it too if the battery on my drill died. Was just trying to cover all the angles.
@@liveandbreatheeasy I hear ya, I am planning to use a 12 volt motor to run mine, not too concerned on the speed more concerned it get the job done well without stressing the motor too much. I will probably use a windshield wiper motor but have considered a starter motor too but the starter motor would have to be a smaller version for packaging .
100% doing this and adding a pin system at the top so i can drive with the bed elevated. my only concern is stripping out the gear box from a rather heavy bed. i wonder what they are really capable of...
I am not sure however they are used to roll out heavy awnings with an outward stress on them. Keep the weight down as much as possible like it did.
I’m wonder has any body made this for a car it’s self like lifting up a car roof I saw one before but only one has done it
What diameter tubing did you choose? Also the bracket for the tubing where you drilled through. Where can I find that. Thanks for your help. Great job! Looking to do the same thing to my 8.5x16.
Thanks RJ. The main Rod/Round/Tube is a solid Rod of aluminum 1". I had to sand this down to get it through some of the pieces as Aluminum is a true 1" unlike the bearing at the one end that says it is 1" So the three main pieces are an awning crank ( www.wayfair.ca/outdoor/pdp/aleko-retractable-awning-gearbox-hardware-alek3623.html ) the center support ( www.ikea.com/ca/en/p/skorva-center-support-beam-galvanized-90124534/ ) and the bearing ( www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B091TMJ3NX/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 ) Hope this helps you with the bed.
@@liveandbreatheeasy Appreciate the response back. Thanks again.
This looks great. Thanks for posting. One question please. What is the sides of the frame made from? Thanks
The main frame is solid Pine, either 1x3 or 1x5. Brackets were made with aluminum angles
The design is awesome, one more question please: how can it stay on top without falling off, is it a function of the crank or is there another mechanism?
Thanks for the comment. It is just the function of the crank. As it is an Awning crank it just holds there. I never drive with the bed in the air though as the bed isn't secure in tracks and I don't have pins to prevent extra stress on the crank.
Where did you get a solid aluminum tube and how did you cut it precisely enough to fit into that square slot?
Hi there, I purchased the solid round at www.metalsupermarkets.com/. This is a Canadian supplier. I tried first with a hacksaw but ended up using a hand grinder and sand paper. Aluminum is really easy to work with.
I love your idea! Does the awning gearbox have enough friction to keep it raised or do you have stops?
So far so good. We don't drive with the bed up. If I did I would probably put something to help.
Does an awning crank have a lock? like can you crank part way down and lock in place?
Hi there Eric, The Awning crank will stay at any level. Would I put additional weight on it no. I don't have any pins that hold it at the top or anywhere else. One thing I don't ever to is run the trailer with it at the top position. If I wanted it at the top while driving I would just put pins in to take the weight off of it. Other than that I have never had any issues with it slipping while in any possition.
Where did you get the casters from?
Not quite sure what you are referring to but if you are talking about the rope guides cut into the wood frame I made them. I used a piece of aluminum C channel and bought patio screens door wheels and put that together to allow me to not have the rope bind.
Does it raise evenly and when sitting in the highest position?
Yes, this one works perfectly. All you have to do is ensure that the strings are even when it is down. Because the strings wind along the bar without overlapping it works perfectly.
@@liveandbreatheeasy I just purchased a racor crank and modified my 1 inch aluminum stock rod. My self adjusting roller bearing should be here tomorrow. czcams.com/video/strdOhaCFWo/video.html
Did you drill the hole through the rod straight and the ropes just automatically wind out in each direction? Or did you drill the hole at an angle to start them in the right direction?
Would you mind listing the parts you used?
Good day. I have the main parts that were needed in the description. The main frame was just pine, and the brackets were made of aluminum L angle cut to length with a saw. The main rode was aluminum to keep down the weight.
@@liveandbreatheeasy Thank you.
What size and type rope did you use ?
HI there, I used Nylon Braided Rope, 3/16. We will see how it works. Not worried about it breaking. I wanted to have white which seems to be harder to find in different types.
@@liveandbreatheeasy thank you. Can you guestimate how heavy the entire platform is? Wondering how much 3/16 rope can handle for my situation
@@caschycom I would say maybe 100 with the queen mattress.
Check at a marine supply store.
4:22
Great job! I think you have improved on my design- I still like the E-track I’ve used to lock it in place but I also use the track for other things. Your design is cleaner. Check out my lift bed at czcams.com/video/LDeYOyNvUiY/video.html
Here is my channel with more on the build:
youtube.com/@coachgym
Will this hold the fiancé, myself, and two dogs? Collectively weight a little less than 450lbs. Worried about the stress it’ll do to the verticals sidewall posts that the tracks are screwed to.
Could you flip the corner brackets up side down so the bed stays up higher when it’s up? Instead of losing those few inches of height when you lower it back down to the track to set on brackets.
You could but remember you need the space from under the mattress for the crank bar.
@@liveandbreatheeasy so if you use a power drill then you wouldn’t need room for the crank bar correct? Thanks on your fast response man means a lot because I am about to purchase a trailer today or tomorrow!
@@liveandbreatheeasy also do I need to add another verticals sidewall posts/support in order to hold around 500lbs? I have my fiancé and two dogs all sleeping together
I@@hdsn447 I am talking about the bar that goes across the center that the cables go around.
Will this hold the fiancé, myself, and two dogs? Collectively weight a little less than 450lbs. Worried about the stress it’ll do to the verticals sidewall posts that the tracks are screwed to.
The bed when down is resting on rails along the wall. There is no weight on the ropes or the vertical bars. The center bar running across is what they use in Ikea for their beds. The key will be the support on the walls at the head and feet.