*Update - it's been 5000 km since I loctited two of the upper cups on the pushrods from my Le Mans 1000. And it's good news, both of them have held up perfectly.
Why not try a Breva? A very underestimated machine, and the most comfortable bike I've ever had. A great all round bike, just make sure the dipstick is tight (don't ask - twice lol).
Cool stuff Mike. No torque setting on the rocker tower? Glad this is working. There is a Guzzi in my future so I'm in research mode right now. Thanks for your videos, much appreciated.
@@MikesMachines Within a 5K radius, but if you work out a spiral type route, you are still within the rules - take the long way round, and then back in the reverse route. Probably not that much fun, but better than nothing. Stay well, safe and keep up the great videos😊
My brothers mates had about 6 different Dukes in the 70's . Nearly new , nearly all broken. I think the 860GT was the exception. Now when I lust over an Italian bike, I just take an aspirin and have a nap.
Nice video Mike, but - LOL! Taking the rocker cover off - as you'd tighten your cover down in a diagonal pattern, the rule is the same when removing to prevent any undue stresses. 1 in a million chances of being an issue with these little engines, but just good practice, it is made of aluminium after all. Also, a gentle drop of the pushrod onto a hard surface will give you a good indication of any cracks that can't be seen (give it a good clean first). It should give a decent ringing sound. If it doesn't (dull sound), that indicates a duff pushrod which should be float tested (i.e. just like the ancient witch test, chuck it into a decent body of water. If it sinks to the bottom, that is an indication that it is indeed bad, if it floats, that also confirms it is bad, so toss it anyway 😃). Get some modern metalised gaskets and they will last forever, those cardboard things are from the age of James Watt. (I'm assuming these are available for the LM1000, I've got a set on all my small blocks, courtesy of Mr Roper in Bungendore). Don't put hollow pushrods into a vice for whatever reason. Another tip, roll it on a flat surface, your fingers will soon let you know if it is bent and hence needing the aforementioned float test. Isn't it absolutely bloody marvelous that we can do this on a Guzzi without even taking the tank off! I once had to tighten up the heads on my Monza at the side of the road - easy job. I hope you take this as constructive and not a trolling comment. Hopefully you'll be able to take it for a spin for a test run soon. Stay safe to all our Victorian comrades, we're thinking of you and send our best wishes.
@@MikesMachines Nothing wrong with Cornflakes packets if needs must. The standard Guzzi ones are just highly compressed card after all. What I hate about them is, if not oiled prior to fitting, they generally make a mess upon removal, and I hate trying to scrape old gaskets with a passion. I've used some of the newer beer six-pack carrier material, very plasticy (is that a word?), which work very well as gasket material, but I'm not game on using it on the heads - way too hot. As an ex Royal Navy Marine Engineer, I consider myself a bit of a hand at knocking out gaskets lol. The new metalised ones that Mr Roper sold me a few years ago are bloody marvelous, don't stick and still serviceable after a fair few valve clearance checks. Not expensive, only a very few dollars more than the standard ones, especially in the long term. Once again, thanks for your videos, I look forward to them. Stay safe and keep up the good work, Dave.
@@robotsnthat To prevent gaskets from sticking a light coat of Permatex Ulta Copper smeared on both sides of the gasket does wonders. Can be removed years later with no damage to the gasket although a new one should probably be used on reassembly. We used it almost exclusively when I worked on radial aircraft engines. I have used it since on everything from lawnmowers, outboards to motorcycles.
If it is as robust as our 750 Breva I have high hopes for it. I'm looking forward to a sports version being released. If Guzzi release an 850 Le Mans version with upside down forks, radial tyres and modern dash etc. but with retro styling I'll be in the queue to buy.
That loctite should work great. In my toolroom job in a factory I had to remove fasteners that folks had used red (permanent) loctite on. If you just tried to turn them the fasteners would break. The trick was to heat them up with a torch and "kill" the loctite. You would see a little flame as the loctite was consumed then you could remove the fastener. My job would have been so much easier if they had only issued the blue (removable) loctite in the factory. They had large bottles of red loctite all around the place just begging for some moron to use it.
Rather than tape to hold the insert while the loctite cured, I would have clamped it longitudinally with a big rubber band, long ziptie or some such, or even reinstalled it and left it loaded with the valve in its open phase.
Thanks for your professional videos. I am a faithful Moto Guzzi byker and I've got a 1981 Le Mans 2. I would like to change the oil in the front forks. Could you tell me, step by step, the operations to be carried out? Thank you in advance and congratulations on your videos. Claudio
I will be surprised if that loctite holds.. if that pushrod is smooth on the inside, what is the Loctite going to grip. maybe if you had etched/scuffed the inside of the tube, maybe..Meanwhile, I’m sure that there are crashed engines that have been damaged/unsellable that the salvage yard would be glad to send you all 4 push rods out of ..Keep checking eBay for salvage yards selling any parts from that model/year., And ask that seller if they have a damaged engine that they would be willing to part with the pushrods. The problem with aluminum is, it does not maintain integrity. if that pushrod tube lost its grip on that insert, obviously the metal is fatigued/stretched. If there is someway you could evenly compress/crush the end of the tube around the incert, maybe with a variable size tubing flare clamp, or roll it somehow..But I would only do this as a temporary measure until I could locate a replacement. I have had four guzzis since 1979..i have a 2007 norge now.. how did you ever discover that pushrod issue? I replaced pitted lifters in my 1979SP 1000, I don’t remember what the pushrods looks like. I do remember having to always have to Adjust the valve clearance, which I religiously checked about every 1500 miles, which is the interval that I changed the oil also.. I had to loosen/increase the clearance on one or two valves pretty much every time. I am one of those meticulous guys that picks fly shit out of pepper, so I would sit there until I had the right amount of drag on the feeler gauge when adjusting my valves, keeping in mind, that slightly loose is better than tight on the subject of valves.. now, after watching this video, I am now concerned about the pushrods in my Norge... I put a combined approximately 180,000 miles on my 4 guzzis.. I had to replace oil sending unit/oil pressure switch on all four of them. I had to put two of them in my V 50..I also had to replace the steering stem bearings in my V 50, and I found out that the races do not wear in the V 50, only the balls which are loose/ not caged.. I had to put the new lifters in my SP 1000 at 40,000 miles, I had to replace the start relay in my 2004 V11 sport..That start relay Has 8 amps Going through it when you turn the key on, before you even push the starter button. And it’s only a 10 amp relay. Bad design/misapplication.. I was able to locate 30 amp relays for three dollars each from a moto guzzi national owners club member, that fixed that problem. my Norge has a start problem also. The start relay control circuit is at the end of a shared daisy chain of parasitic draw. It is the last component to get 12 V. The fix is to cut the yellow wire free from the wire harness that feeds start relay control circuit, and hardwire the relay directly to the positive terminal on the battery through a fuse.. that makes the relay energized all the time, so I ran the feed from the battery to the relay through a single pole single throw toggle switch mounted under the seat which now doubles as a kill switch/security switch. Those were the only issues I had with all four of my machines since 1979. I will let you know if I find fault with my Norge push rod ends.. At $200 each I would write that off as maintenance ...Maintenance is expensive, but that which ought to be done and isn’t is more expensive.. each Guzzi has its own quirks.. I know you will be worried/distracted about that pushrod every time you fire it up until you replace it.. example: I had a BMW K 1200 LT(The most flawed motorcycle I ever owned..everything from clouds of smoke if you use the side stand on start up, to final drive bearing failures and much much much much more. I will never buy another BMW, you have to marry the dealer if you own a BMW these days.) The final drives were having many bearing failures on BMWs. I sold that machine because I could not put it out of my mind every time I rode that bike. Every time I stopped, I would go to the rear wheel and see if I could detect any play. I finally got rid of it. I didn’t trust it..
Hi Mike,ive been running the Dyna ignition in my Lemans 1000 since about 1995 and never had any issues whatsoever, however having the bike sit for 12 month's i fitted a new battery and fresh fuel and the bike ran faultless,but after a few rides it started to run a bit strange,like it was slow for the revs to fully drop ,so i did the usual checks ,cables,new plugs,still the revs where slow to back off,do you know if this could be related to the advance retard springs under the ignition plate? They seem a bit streched , thanks.
@@MikesMachines thanks for the reply,I initially thought fuel but the bike was running fine but on the third or fourth ride it started showing the symptoms I mentioned,that's why I thought it might be something to do the ignition advance springs.
You can check the ignition timing with a timing light but I doubt it's ignition related. It seems carb, an air leak or a clogged air cleaner element to me. The Wild Guzzi forum members might also have some good suggestions if you post there. www.wildguzzi.com/forum/
200 Quid, per pushrod!?! Are there some hot-rodding/motorcycle databases in England/EU [Spain?], that can get you a stronger, lighter pushrod, for less? Does the Guzzi-club have a "parts-scheme", where they might be cheaper? I haven't HEARD of pushrods being that expen$ive, here in the "States. If the lock-tite doesn't "work", how about looking-around a Motorcycle-breakers[--junk-yard], where maybe you could get push-rods, USED, for only 20-quid/per? Many shows/"Jumbles" might have perfectly good, used parts, too. 'Good Luck, Mike. PS. You Could: Weld/braze a rod to the underside of the tip, turning the TIP into a bolt / "screw". Trim the rod to a length, and thread-it. Close-up part of the pushrod tip holder to nearly closed. Then tap the end of the pushrod, into the size matching the tip/"bolt". Screw the tip into the body of the pushrod. You've then made an adjustible pushrod.
200 bucks a piece???? In future try the aftermarket; Megacycles in the States do chrome moly pushrods Then Teo Lamers in Holland, Agostini's in Mandello Del Lario, and a couple of German outfits... Regards,
*Update - it's been 5000 km since I loctited two of the upper cups on the pushrods from my Le Mans 1000. And it's good news, both of them have held up perfectly.
Thanks for the videos, you've given me the knowledge and confidence to try little jobs on my V7.
Thank you very much for this tip. I will immediatelly check my 1000S with 130' km on the clock.
Thank you for showing this, Mike.
Fantastic vid well done for taking the time and effort!.
Thanks for the video. Contact cleaner spray does very well in degreasing small parts like that pushrod
Yes..you are correct. Electrical contact spray.
Good job, Mike. Really enjoy you on the spanners. I'm very keen to pickup a V7 as a second bike, as I tried a V85TT but found it a little tall.
Why not try a Breva? A very underestimated machine, and the most comfortable bike I've ever had. A great all round bike, just make sure the dipstick is tight (don't ask - twice lol).
Cool stuff Mike. No torque setting on the rocker tower? Glad this is working. There is a Guzzi in my future so I'm in research mode right now. Thanks for your videos, much appreciated.
Mike,
Gutsibits have used ones in stock from £6 GBP. If your stuck let me know and I can easily post some out to you.
Thanks Kev, I'll keep that in mind.
Beautiful bike ! Love my little baby Guzzi
great video and fix, thanks a lot
Good luck with your pushrods Mike. And best wishes during the lockdown. At least here in NSW we can still go for a ride.
I can ride 5 km to buy milk but that about it!
@@MikesMachines Within a 5K radius, but if you work out a spiral type route, you are still within the rules - take the long way round, and then back in the reverse route. Probably not that much fun, but better than nothing. Stay well, safe and keep up the great videos😊
My brothers mates had about 6 different Dukes in the 70's . Nearly new , nearly all broken. I think the 860GT was the exception. Now when I lust over an Italian bike, I just take an aspirin and have a nap.
Nice video Mike, but - LOL! Taking the rocker cover off - as you'd tighten your cover down in a diagonal pattern, the rule is the same when removing to prevent any undue stresses. 1 in a million chances of being an issue with these little engines, but just good practice, it is made of aluminium after all. Also, a gentle drop of the pushrod onto a hard surface will give you a good indication of any cracks that can't be seen (give it a good clean first). It should give a decent ringing sound. If it doesn't (dull sound), that indicates a duff pushrod which should be float tested (i.e. just like the ancient witch test, chuck it into a decent body of water. If it sinks to the bottom, that is an indication that it is indeed bad, if it floats, that also confirms it is bad, so toss it anyway 😃). Get some modern metalised gaskets and they will last forever, those cardboard things are from the age of James Watt. (I'm assuming these are available for the LM1000, I've got a set on all my small blocks, courtesy of Mr Roper in Bungendore). Don't put hollow pushrods into a vice for whatever reason. Another tip, roll it on a flat surface, your fingers will soon let you know if it is bent and hence needing the aforementioned float test.
Isn't it absolutely bloody marvelous that we can do this on a Guzzi without even taking the tank off! I once had to tighten up the heads on my Monza at the side of the road - easy job.
I hope you take this as constructive and not a trolling comment.
Hopefully you'll be able to take it for a spin for a test run soon. Stay safe to all our Victorian comrades, we're thinking of you and send our best wishes.
Well, I could be cutting the gaskets from an old corn flakes packet! Thanks for the tips though, they are much appreciated :)
@@MikesMachines Nothing wrong with Cornflakes packets if needs must. The standard Guzzi ones are just highly compressed card after all. What I hate about them is, if not oiled prior to fitting, they generally make a mess upon removal, and I hate trying to scrape old gaskets with a passion. I've used some of the newer beer six-pack carrier material, very plasticy (is that a word?), which work very well as gasket material, but I'm not game on using it on the heads - way too hot. As an ex Royal Navy Marine Engineer, I consider myself a bit of a hand at knocking out gaskets lol. The new metalised ones that Mr Roper sold me a few years ago are bloody marvelous, don't stick and still serviceable after a fair few valve clearance checks. Not expensive, only a very few dollars more than the standard ones, especially in the long term. Once again, thanks for your videos, I look forward to them.
Stay safe and keep up the good work, Dave.
@@robotsnthat To prevent gaskets from sticking a light coat of Permatex Ulta Copper smeared on both sides of the gasket does wonders. Can be removed years later with no damage to the gasket although a new one should probably be used on reassembly. We used it almost exclusively when I worked on radial aircraft engines. I have used it since on everything from lawnmowers, outboards to motorcycles.
other way to fix it is to manufacture new end cap on a lathe with bigger seat size and press it in with heating. should be like new
I was waiting for you to fire the old girl up !! ....The Guzzi Mike, the Guzzi :)
I'm hanging out for a good ride post covid!
On my LM2, I just slackened off and removed the tappet adjusters to take the pushrods out
Hey Mike, how do you think the new MG 85TT is going to hold up? Compared to the old ones ?
If it is as robust as our 750 Breva I have high hopes for it. I'm looking forward to a sports version being released. If Guzzi release an 850 Le Mans version with upside down forks, radial tyres and modern dash etc. but with retro styling I'll be in the queue to buy.
That loctite should work great. In my toolroom job in a factory I had to remove fasteners that folks had used red (permanent) loctite on. If you just tried to turn them the fasteners would break. The trick was to heat them up with a torch and "kill" the loctite. You would see a little flame as the loctite was consumed then you could remove the fastener. My job would have been so much easier if they had only issued the blue (removable) loctite in the factory. They had large bottles of red loctite all around the place just begging for some moron to use it.
Rather than tape to hold the insert while the loctite cured, I would have clamped it longitudinally with a big rubber band, long ziptie or some such, or even reinstalled it and left it loaded with the valve in its open phase.
Thanks for your professional videos. I am a faithful Moto Guzzi byker and I've got a 1981 Le Mans 2. I would like to change the oil in the front forks. Could you tell me, step by step, the operations to be carried out? Thank you in advance and congratulations on your videos. Claudio
The best place to ask is the Wild Guzzi forum.
wildguzzi.com
Could you have used a weapons bore rod to clean the inside of the push rod.
Does anyone know of a 500cc Moto-Guzzi Nuovo Falcone that was increased in displacement to a 700cc?--600CC?
You could have put a series of centre punches around the alloy shaft to lock the top in.
The cam followers do nothave a convex surface, they mounted so that they are being pushed round, because the cam is of center.
Why not Devcon or JBWeld them in?
Hello Mike; what year is your Le Mans 1000?
It's a 1991 model.
How did you figure out that that there was a problem with the pushrod? What are the symptoms?
There were no symptoms. I found it when rebuilding the top end.
Yeah 🇮🇪👍
I will be surprised if that loctite holds.. if that pushrod is smooth on the inside, what is the Loctite going to grip. maybe if you had etched/scuffed the inside of the tube, maybe..Meanwhile, I’m sure that there are crashed engines that have been damaged/unsellable that the salvage yard would be glad to send you all 4 push rods out of ..Keep checking eBay for salvage yards selling any parts from that model/year., And ask that seller if they have a damaged engine that they would be willing to part with the pushrods.
The problem with aluminum is, it does not maintain integrity. if that pushrod tube lost its grip on that insert, obviously the metal is fatigued/stretched. If there is someway you could evenly compress/crush the end of the tube around the incert, maybe with a variable size tubing flare clamp, or roll it somehow..But I would only do this as a temporary measure until I could locate a replacement.
I have had four guzzis since 1979..i have a 2007 norge now.. how did you ever discover that pushrod issue? I replaced pitted lifters in my 1979SP 1000, I don’t remember what the pushrods looks like. I do remember having to always have to Adjust the valve clearance, which I religiously checked about every 1500 miles, which is the interval that I changed the oil also.. I had to loosen/increase the clearance on one or two valves pretty much every time. I am one of those meticulous guys that picks fly shit out of pepper, so I would sit there until I had the right amount of drag on the feeler gauge when adjusting my valves, keeping in mind, that slightly loose is better than tight on the subject of valves..
now, after watching this video, I am now concerned about the pushrods in my Norge...
I put a combined approximately 180,000 miles on my 4 guzzis.. I had to replace oil sending unit/oil pressure switch on all four of them. I had to put two of them in my V 50..I also had to replace the steering stem bearings in my V 50, and I found out that the races do not wear in the V 50, only the balls which are loose/ not caged..
I had to put the new lifters in my SP 1000 at 40,000 miles,
I had to replace the start relay in my 2004 V11 sport..That start relay Has 8 amps Going through it when you turn the key on, before you even push the starter button. And it’s only a 10 amp relay. Bad design/misapplication.. I was able to locate 30 amp relays for three dollars each from a moto guzzi national owners club member, that fixed that problem.
my Norge has a start problem also. The start relay control circuit is at the end of a shared daisy chain of parasitic draw. It is the last component to get 12 V. The fix is to cut the yellow wire free from the wire harness that feeds start relay control circuit, and hardwire the relay directly to the positive terminal on the battery through a fuse.. that makes the relay energized all the time, so I ran the feed from the battery to the relay through a single pole single throw toggle switch mounted under the seat which now doubles as a kill switch/security switch.
Those were the only issues I had with all four of my machines since 1979.
I will let you know if I find fault with my Norge push rod ends..
At $200 each I would write that off as maintenance ...Maintenance is expensive, but that which ought to be done and isn’t is more expensive..
each Guzzi has its own quirks..
I know you will be worried/distracted about that pushrod every time you fire it up until you replace it..
example:
I had a BMW K 1200 LT(The most flawed motorcycle I ever owned..everything from clouds of smoke if you use the side stand on start up, to final drive bearing failures and much much much much more. I will never buy another BMW, you have to marry the dealer if you own a BMW these days.)
The final drives were having many bearing failures on BMWs. I sold that machine because I could not put it out of my mind every time I rode that bike. Every time I stopped, I would go to the rear wheel and see if I could detect any play. I finally got rid of it. I didn’t trust it..
Why take out the spark plugs?
It makes it easier to turn over the engine to top dead center.
Bravo ma non hai acceso il motore alla fine.
Com'è andata a finire? La Loctite ha retto?
Hi Mike,ive been running the Dyna ignition in my Lemans 1000 since about 1995 and never had any issues whatsoever, however having the bike sit for 12 month's i fitted a new battery and fresh fuel and the bike ran faultless,but after a few rides it started to run a bit strange,like it was slow for the revs to fully drop ,so i did the usual checks ,cables,new plugs,still the revs where slow to back off,do you know if this could be related to the advance retard springs under the ignition plate? They seem a bit streched , thanks.
That sounds more fuel related to me. I'd check the carbs and see if there are any issues there.
@@MikesMachines thanks for the reply,I initially thought fuel but the bike was running fine but on the third or fourth ride it started showing the symptoms I mentioned,that's why I thought it might be something to do the ignition advance springs.
You can check the ignition timing with a timing light but I doubt it's ignition related. It seems carb, an air leak or a clogged air cleaner element to me. The Wild Guzzi forum members might also have some good suggestions if you post there. www.wildguzzi.com/forum/
200 Quid, per pushrod!?! Are there some hot-rodding/motorcycle databases in England/EU [Spain?], that can get you a stronger, lighter pushrod, for less? Does the Guzzi-club have a "parts-scheme", where they might be cheaper? I haven't HEARD of pushrods being that expen$ive, here in the "States. If the lock-tite doesn't "work", how about looking-around a Motorcycle-breakers[--junk-yard], where maybe you could get push-rods, USED, for only 20-quid/per? Many shows/"Jumbles" might have perfectly good, used parts, too. 'Good Luck, Mike. PS. You Could: Weld/braze a rod to the underside of the tip, turning the TIP into a bolt / "screw". Trim the rod to a length, and thread-it. Close-up part of the pushrod tip holder to nearly closed. Then tap the end of the pushrod, into the size matching the tip/"bolt". Screw the tip into the body of the pushrod. You've then made an adjustible pushrod.
Not Japanese quality on MotorGuzzi but look nice.
I have over 300,000 km on my mk5, my Hondas never made it that far.
200 bucks a piece????
In future try the aftermarket;
Megacycles in the States do chrome moly pushrods
Then Teo Lamers in Holland,
Agostini's in Mandello Del Lario, and a couple of German outfits...
Regards,
Silver braze it in place.
Will that take to the aluminium of the pushrod?
@@timhicks2154 Oh, good point! I guess i mean't to say "JB Weld it in place!"
One pushrod on my 850 LeMans Mark 2 started to collapse
JB Weld would work better.
Bent pushrods are not uncommon.