How to Splice Wires for the Very Best Connection
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- čas přidán 1. 07. 2024
- In this video I show you how to make a wire splice with typical home electrical wires that are used when wiring outlets, switches, light fixtures, and DIY Projects. I am using the electrical tools and wire connectors commonly used by an electrician. I also cover special purpose wire connectors that are used for splicing aluminum and copper wires, and wire connectors used for outdoor applications where there is moisture and in damp locations.
0:00 Introduction
1:24 Typical Wire Connectors and Applications Trade Color
7:55 Splicing Wires Creating a solid wire splice
8:27 Loose or Improperly Installed Connections A high electrical load at the connection can cause electrical components to expand and contract which can cause failure. A loose connection can cause a hazardous condition, including component failure, arcing, burning, and fire.
12:14 Splicing Aluminum and Copper Wires with Anti Corrosion Inhibitor Splicing Wires: Aluminum to Copper, or Aluminum to Aluminum - Jak na to + styl
You *ALWAYS* show what's NEW that we did NOT know about and I (WE) say THANKS!!!
Your Welcome, Thanks for Watching!
Very nice video... Thank u
You Are Most Welcome!
Hi Dave - new subscriber... great videos and thanks for sharing your knowledge. I have a 240v line wired directly to an oven tower. Doing a little remodel and need to extend it so i can run it to a diferent location via the attic.
The way i have done it in the past is by using the rught junction box, cliping, stripping and then joingin with wire nut, taping and securing wires in junction box, with ground wire to ground/green screw... Seems to work just fine, many places ive looked at say you should rewire from the whole line from fuse box.
Whats your take? Im in Texas btw and ive looked at code and its a little confusing since home was built in 1979
Thanks in advance for your input.
If the splice is done according to code with the method and the approved components, then a splice would be fine.
I have a question I'll try to be brief and clear. In my home, outlet A, B, and C are on the same thing, along with the kitchen light. Outlet A recently stopped working and when it did, it stopped b, c, and the kitchen light, however did not trip the breaker. Instead, if I plug in a lamp into outlet a, the power returns to b, c, and the kitchen light, though A remains dead. What would cause this? Today, outlet b did the same thing, I plugged in a vacuum and it killed outlet c and the kitchen light....and only after plugging the lamp into outlet a did things return to c and the kitchen, no breaker tripped. And to be clear the only thing even plugged in at the time was the tv and modem.
This question was submitted to Dave through the at ask-the-electrician, where I provided a detailed answer.
hey sorry to bother you, any idea why my outdoor air conditioner keeps blowing the fuses in my basement fuse box ? (house built in 1968 approx)
third time this year = happened today when putting the thermostat to "cool" from the "OFF" position (only has cool, off or heat and the slider from 10 to 30 celsius)
very old thermostat on the wall from the 70s or 80s i think
The AC unit should be checked, and tests performed to see where the problem is.
Hi Dave; new subscriber here. What do you think about the Wago connectors?
Hi DLT - Great Question and I love your YT channel and way of life! Personally I do not use them unless they are factory installed on a light fixture that will be easy to access in case the connector fails. Here is the concern: The contact surface of the wires end up being very small compared to a twisted wire group properly installed in a twist on wire connector. The metal components of the Wago may become weak causing a loose connection if the circuit load causes heat which can cause components to loosen up thereby causing a faulty connection.
Hi David!
I just stumbled across your channel and have found it to be a great treasure trove of knowledge. I am a soon-to-graduate senior in chemical engineering, but frankly, the amount of hands-on work we get is not enough. My introductory circuits class was taught through a screen. Do you have any advice for someone interested in becoming more educated about what problems can arise in the realm of electrical work and how to fix them? I'm not quite sure where my thinking should be framed for approaching the electrical wiring behind the drywall, which colors correspond to which lines, and so forth. Your content is awesome and thanks for the great tips!
Kind regards,
-Dylan
Hands on real world experience is always best, and working as an apprentice with a seasoned electrician who is willing to share their knowledge is extremely helpful. The quality of online resources reflects the level of the resource provider and their actual qualifications and credentials, so be careful in that area. I strive to provide good quality information based upon my life's trade and I am happy to share it with you and anyone else.
I wish you great success!
Wish I knew an electrician nearby or of some kind of "electrician's guild" to meet one. Your videos definitely are helpful so far and so is your website. Once I graduate I should have more time to properly learn. Thanks for the awesome content and I'll pop in the comments every now and then and thank you for the wishes!
Kind regards,
-Dylan
A quick question that you may or may not be able to answer.... Right now where I am living, the shed/garage is running off of outdoor 12/2 uf-b and a 20amp breaker. But what's bad is the actual lights in there are wired up with some THIN 2 wire lamp cord trash(that I used to use speaker wire thicker than that just for basic low wattage speakers running straight off radio!!). But my question is not what "needs" to be done, but rather a technical question with all disregards to "codes" themselves. I actually have 14/2 wire here, If I "pigtail" 14/2 off the 12/2 to just run to the lights(all low wattage(14watt bulbs and low wattage leds/all equal well under 100 watt total,60-70 watts probably), will that 14/2 even begin to see 16-1700 watts "if" I ever even ran enough out there at same time while doing something? Or will the high peaking wattage mainly be flying to the outlet itself hungry for power?? I am no electrician, so I don't know may of the technical details, but I will say, I personally don't believe in 14g wire for a house PERIOD. No lights, no NOTHING! But, this isn't my house(trailer), and my stepfather has a 75ft roll of 14/2 here so idk. Obvious thing #1 is, yes it would surely be better than thin horse hair lamp wire, BUT, if I rewire it with the 14/2 instead of just leaving it be, if something happens after that, I wired it!! Buying some 12/2 right now is out of the question, as I just bought 50ft of 8/3 for a stove that had been running off of 8/2 for years using bare ground as neutral wire, and regardless of debates back and forth of "neutral" being just a glorified ground, when I noticed this, after putting a new 100amp main in panel, the stove was priority #1 to rewire with 4 prong and 8/33333, not 8/2! Then found 4 outlets in house with open neutrals readings(which were 3 different broken grounds off), so fixed them, and figured out that fridge was running with livingr room and a bedroom, so happened to find a hot wire off(unhooked) in sub-panel that actually went to an old dedicated broken plug behind fridge, so fixed it. But back to technical question, when pigtailing off another wire with a smaller gauge run to lower wattage only, would that smaller wire see the peak amps of larger wire? I can see exceptions of thin "factory" wires on electronics/ceiling fans etc because the wires are short in length, so if they seen some of the high peaks then maybe ok idk. Maybe it would be compared to say, when I used to use 0-1/0 gauge on my old car system, the 150-200amp fuses themselves were a THIN blade, but only about 2" of flow through it, so idk.
Could you please submit your question using this link (copy & paste if you wish) , this way I can provide good resources that will help you with this:
ask-the-electrician.com/ask-the-electrician.html
THANK YOU!
hi david ! am i correct that since both wires on the thermostat are nonpolar, so you don't have to worry which wires you connect?
the thermostat i am replacing is a 2 wire one. and again, on my honeywell thermostat box, it says 2 nonpolar. thanks in advance !