How to make an Improved Propane Forge or Foundry Burner Build (minimal tools / no welder)
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- čas přidán 24. 07. 2024
- In this video I show how to build a propane forge or foundry burner that has adjustable airflow control and only requires minimal tools. See below for a list of parts and some tools.
Parts:
1-1/4” Coupling amzn.to/2nOlsdC
1-1/4” x 3/4” Bushing amzn.to/2PpApQ6
3/4” x 9” Nipple amzn.to/2MYgYMA
1-1/2” x 3/4” Reducer amzn.to/2BljH18
.023” MIG Tip amzn.to/2L51EvV
1/8” Brass “T” amzn.to/2vUgGQ8
1/8” x 3” Brass Nipple x2 amzn.to/2PijoqN
1/8” Brass End Cap x2 amzn.to/2vRRF8a
1/8” x 3” Lamp Nipple amzn.to/2nPFAMq
1/4” x 1/8” Brass Bushing amzn.to/2vS1Ee0
1/4” Ball Valve amzn.to/2L51zrW
1/4” Hose Barb amzn.to/2nQdLnu
1/4”-5/8” Hose Clamp amzn.to/2vXAdPK
0-40psi Gas Regulator & Hose amzn.to/2BpFzbG
3/16” x 2” x 48” aluminum stock amzn.to/2vTl2Y0
JB KwikWeld amzn.to/2nQI0uu
High Temp Pipe Thread Seal Tape amzn.to/2MYjuT2
40lb propane tank amzn.to/2BpOxG9
Tools/Bits:
M6 Tap amzn.to/2vWjyfn
5mm Drill Bit amzn.to/2OMklXq
1/8” NPT Tap amzn.to/2vWsJfV
21/64 Drill Bit amzn.to/2N2RZI8
File amzn.to/2MnLraJ
Hack Saw amzn.to/2PiCRHY
Drill amzn.to/2MZyWhG - Jak na to + styl
Finally, a DIY burner that doesn't use a lathe and welder. Thanks for the ideas!
You're welcome
I just got done watching several other burners with the same design because I am about to build one along with a forge made out of a big fire extinguisher (the irony) and yours is the only one that was not only simple, but didnt require 10k worth of tools that I don't have, so thank you for the vid!
Thanks!
Thanks for the video. Your presentation style makes it very easy to follow, including the hole drilling fail which shows that diy doesn’t always go to plan. I’ve just purchased all the bits to make two Alex Steel style burners but I think I might have a go at yours. Thanks for sharing your hard earned work 👍
I'm glad you enjoyed the video! I've worked with Alec Steel and his burners are fantastic. I'm sure you'll be happy with either design. Good luck!
Just completed this burner, it is a great design and works perfect. Thanks for the video.
You're welcome!
Nice work making the tools and steps clear to follow
Excellent video and burner design. I researched several propane burners as I am starting out in the backyard foundry hobby, and I decided to build this burner. Took me a couple weeks to get all the parts/tools together between Home Depot and Amazon. But they finally all arrived and I did my build. SUCCESS!! I ran it for the first time this past weekend. I am VERY pleased with it, and I am glad I built this model. There are some who said you don't need the airflow adjustment, but I think I'm going to be happy to have it! I went with the 40-psi regulator, and I also installed a pressure gauge in its gauge port. I also ended up getting a 12-foot propane hose (very happy to have that), and I got the necessary flare fittings to interface the burner to the hose so I didn't have to cut the hose to use a barb connection.
Next up I will be constructing my metal bucket furnace. I wanted to have the burner built first so I would know dimensionally what hole I would use entering the side of the bucket. Not having the actual furnace yet, I do have some questions... When you are using this burner do you know what pressure you are setting the regulator to for melting the metals? There is a WIDE range of pressure with this regulator... do you max it out? How do you know what size flame do you want? With my regulator installed, I get a seriously powerful flame at 20psi... do I need to go to 40psi? Just curious. I wonder if there is a "law of diminishing returns"... where if you keep cranking up the pressure do you get a proportional increase in HEAT or does the efficiency fall off? Any words of advice? Thanks!
Unfortunately the regulators I use don't have a pressure readout. I'm glad you're having success. Thank you for the support!
I Built this burner this past weekend. Works great! Thank you for such a wonderful video! Liked and subscribed!
Thank you!
I’ve been looking for a cheap DIY gas burner so I can get back into making knives. I’m going with this one! I’ll build a ribbon burner later.
I’m 35 now and I started making knives when I was about 9 years old and I sold and traded quite a few! I started out with a small propane torch then charcoal then moved to coal. Time to go full circle and go back to gas.
I got into a depressed slump after a string of traumatic life events and I haven’t made anything at all in about 5 years.
Wish me luck folks!
Good luck with "cheap". i just bought all of these parts at Home Depot (the prices were lower than from Amazon) and it came out to $75 for all the iron and brass fittings, NOT including the $40 hose and regulator.
You can buy a manufactured burner for about the same price. I decided to make this one instead of buying one just because I like to make things.
Good luck! I hope everything works well for you!
Good luck, I just got back into sand casting. Making things is it’s own reward
Good luck mang.
Good luck! Keep your head up.
Sweet. Share this with food truck people. I can use this for kettle corn or under a salvaged flat top outdoors. thanks man. legit.
Great work. I like the addition of the air flow control.
Thank you!
Just built one, seems pretty good, havent even epoxied or put on the air baffle! Thanks for sharing.
Enjoy it
Hi, great vids, I'm currently restoring an 1968 Snipe ( plastic) made in Denmark.
It's just great to see how the original type Snipe was made and there's more to than expected at a swift glance.
Anyway, can't wait for you to get it done.
All the best, HAKAN in Sweden
Thank you!
Great Video! And much cheaper than having to buy a ready made burner for a build it your self forge/foundry. Thank you for the knowledge.
True, it can be much cheaper to buy but I get satisfaction out of the process of making it myself and learning as I go.
Best build I've seen yet!
Thank you!
Just found your video and i have to say, smart easy and good design
Thanks!
Best one out there so far
Thanks!
Thanks! Built and burns great. I had an RV Supply shop build crimped hoses. This let me avoid bushings as the hose could be built with needed ends. I could only locate a 0-30psi regulator, seems like it will be enough but might try a .035 tip later.
I've had the best luck with smaller mig tips but let me know how the .035 works for you.
Looks good! I think I'll solder the brass nipples to the reducing coupling. And put a nut on the lamp nipple to lock the primary air shutter in place, once adjusted.
sounds good to me
That’s just Kick Ass , Great job man
Thank you!
I used a hand drill and my hole as wasn't as straight as I would've liked. I found that I could easily straighten the crooked mig tip by just bending it slightly to achieve proper alignment, the copper is quite soft. This saves the trouble of having to screw it all up again, but good job and thanks for the vid.
Thanks!
I'd be a little worried about crimping the inside.
Nice to see someone using a file properly.
Thank you
Great burner design! I’m almost done but I don’t have the high temp tape in the description. Instead I have yellow “gas line thread seal tape” that says it tolerates up to 500F. I’m assuming the tape shouldn’t go on the parts that touch the flame (everything that isn’t brass) anyway so does the high temperature part matter here?
Interesting and knowledgeable vid
I never worry about air regulators, it hard to get too much air, you light it and adjust the flames at the propane regulator wit pressure....
This is a good design. I like the use of the mig tip and the adjustable air intake. The only part which I'm not that keen on is using the glue to secure the assembly. I'm wondering if using some kind of set screw tapped/drilled into the housing to secure the assembly might be a possibility. You put a lot of thought and effort into this, so thanks for that!
A set screw would be much better. I haven't had any issues with the epoxy yet though. The inflow end of the burner stays pretty cool due to the airflow.
Great design on the burner and for most applications create enough heat. But if your needing the kind of heat needed to make say iron or steal you need 3,000 plus farenheit. This burner can reach that kind of heat simply by adding forced air into the air intake. A good and simple way is to connect the outblow side of a shopvac to the burner intake. This gives the extra needed air to get higher heat.
I don't plan on trying to melt steel or iron at this point but maybe in the future. Thanks for the great advice!
very easy video to follow, I was thinking just the opposite on the tip sizing.
Thanks!
Good build, I would suggest testing the pressurized end of the build with soapy water especially that barb fitting.
Great advice!
Why use soapy water? Just turn the gas on and run a lighter around the fittings. Not like the tank can blow up lmao
@@Dontworryimaprofessional NO. If there was a leak, the fire would melt the hose and continue melting the hose until the fire reaches the tank fitting.
@@David-bc4rh and then nothing would happen...? Flame can't travel through a tank fitting IF there's pressure in the tank but if you're stupid enough to let the flame last long enough to melt the hose then you deserve whatever happens anyways.
This design is much better than mine- way more controllable- my, "regulator" is the ball valve! I need barely crack ot open. I made one that works with the 1lb. bottles. One bottle gets me around 2.25-2.75hrs approx with a .028 MIG nozzle. I plan to eventually get a 20lb bottle but then I will only need to take the 1lb fitting off the burner, the rest are 1/4" pipe fittings so a standard hose should attach without needing to buy or rig anything more than just the bottle-burner stuff.
Thank you for your support!
Second Tee looks cooler anywho
Hey it means a lot hearing everything in Feet and Inches-istill work in ft and inches and we been decimal now since the 1970s...uk
I try to use whatever makes sense for the project
I have a question in regards to building a forge with multiple burners (I’m thinking 3) of this type. My plan would be to daisy-chain the burners with a valve in between them so I can turn off burners down the line when I don’t need them. My question is what would I need to do assure a consistent burner output when all burners are on? Can all the mig tips/valves be the same size or does the size increase or decrease down the line? My thinking is whether the same situation occurs here as it does with water pipe in that when a pipe is supplying multiple outputs you have to reduce the pipe, down the line, in order to maintain adequate pressure. Thoughts?
Fun stuff!
Thanks
Disposable chop sticks work great for working JB Weld
Thanks I'll keep that in mind
Right on! I didn't have any on hand at the time. BBQ skewers work well too.
This is badass! I'm getting ready to build my forge and this is the best DIY design and walkthrough I've seen! The only question I have is how you mounted the burner to your forge. I've seen people just cement it in place and I don't trust that, I also don't know whether I'd trust an epoxy on the body of the forge.
I'm in the process of making a video for the actual Forge build. one option is you make a bracket out of some scrap metal and attach it to the forge and burner using either bolts or pop rivets and hose clamp.
JB Weld makes a high temp version suitable for auto exhaust. Ive used it successfully in burners
Nicely done Sir. I've watched about 20 burner vids, including your first one. Definitely looks like something I'm capable of building, and I plan on doing so soon. The ol' brake drum forge is fun, but getting coal in my town is difficult and charcoal is expensive..... one question: how does it mount to your forge? I saw a firebrick forge in one of your thumbnails. Is that what your still using? Thanks!
--- Chris
I used a hole saw to cut a spot in an old gas bottle and then used a metal shelf bracket/support and pop rivets to hold the burner in place. You could use bolts and nuts or wire in place of pop rivets. the forge is insulated with ceramic wool and a satanite coating over it.
Thanks👍
No problem 👍
Thumbs up and a new subscriber.
Welcome aboard!
what is the thread size on your 6M tap? I used a M6x1 tap but the threads did not match the Miller Mig tip.
Put a light long spring behind or in front of the airflow flap and it will keep it tight and consistent
Great suggestion!
Great Video! What kind of ball valve and adapter combination is required to hook it up to the regulator hose with the 3/8" flare fitting?
The parts quantities and sizes are listed down in the description. I hope this helps.
If you installed a large wing nut behind the air flow regulator, you could lock it into any position you wanted while using it, and you wouldn't have to worry about it spinning and going out of adjustment.
True. I haven't had any issues with it going out of adjustment though.
why did you use the NPT tap for the flow damper 'lamp stem' isn't it just a simple tap? Did you use the the NPT for the mig tip as well?
Great build! After watching the tip of the burner start to change colors I am curious how long you could run before the main body of the pipe nipple started to get hot. Also does the length of the pipe nipple effect the performance? I think I would like to make it a little longer.
I ran it in a gas bottle forge for 2 hours yesterday at full blast and you are right, the exhaust end got hot up to about 700F (measured with an IR temp gun) but the intake end iron pipe remained cool enough to touch (around 140F), the air adjuster and brass fittings stayed 120F or cooler.
Nice job. Could you use a quick connect for the propane hookup?
I don't see why not as long as its gas rated.
Not really sure you need the air flow regulator. These run fine without it (I've built a few very similar). One thing though, I believe you should shut the burner off with the ball valve, then turn off the regulator. Zero pressure all the way back to the tank is not a good thing. Nice burner. Well explained too. Thanks!
I've found that running the burner at lower pressures (to save fuel) it sometimes gets too much air and the air flow regulator helps keep the temperatures higher than without. Good point about shutting off the burner.
Just curious, approximately how long does that tank last under normal working conditions with this burner?
I haven't officially measured it but I've gotten probably at least 8hrs of time on it so far in a small gas bottle forge and haven't had to refill my tank yet. I wasn't running it at max capacity though. Probably only about half pressure but it was still a good yellow forging heat.
drill bell reducer for two grub screws to hold in place
great suggestion!
That's my plan when I finally get around to building one.
Please tell your viewers to use gas rated sealing tape not teflon. Its yellow not white.
the stuff he links to is the proper stuff, it just happens to be white.
This comment should be pinned to the top. Even if the white stuff he uses is for gas, to the rest of the world it looks like bog standard PTFE tape.
Ahmd Abdallah that’s great and all but nobody asked.
Same stuff, just the yellow tape I slightly thicker.
I wonder if it can be made in a smaller size for my paint can foundry
Yes, you can use the same principal for a smaller burner. Not sure what fitting sizes would work best though.
Just a heads up, the MIG tips listed in the description fit a 1/4" x 28 tap not an M6 tap.
Just built it and confirm this
I just built it and it is the M6 tap, not the 1/4 x 28
Τέλειο το φλογιστρο προπανιου που έφτιαξες 1.000 μπράβο πάντως.
Excellent. Can I use stainless steel instead of black steel to build this burner,
Yes you can
Ive been experimenting with this style burner vs a "frosty T" style. Curious to your opinion on the efficiency of one vs the other. Ive found I get more flame coming out of the forge with the frosty T leading me to believe I'm getting an incomplete burn despite air intake adjustment. Do you think putting bolts or similar through the 3/4" pipe to add turbidity would increase fuel air mixing and create more efficient burn?
I've noticed the same thing. I think (guessing) the linear airflow in this style allows for a better mixture and combustion. I'm not certain the T-style burner creates the needed Venturi effect due to the non-linear 90° intake.
Hi guys! I followed every step like in the video, got all the parts together... the darn thing wouldn't stay lit, I tried everything I could think of... started at 0 psi, there's no flame. Worked my way up to 10 psi, it lights up, then 2 seconds later it dies down, and is the same if I go up to 50 psi. What am I doing wrong? I took pictures of the setup and regulators... please help me out, I spent two weeks just waiting for the parts to arrive, and I was hoping that today I can fire up my new forge... thank you!
Update: I did fit the flare at the bottom , now it stays lit but the flame doesn't grow in pressure, no matter how high I work the regulator or the air flow. If it helps I can post a video. Thanks again!
Do you suggest or do you need a regulator. I built this burner without a regulator and it doesn't get enough airflow. Or does the regulator have anything to do with the airflow. I also didn't use a ball valve.
I use a high pressure regulator that they usually use with those big turkey fryer burners.
And with glp?
very impressive video , but one question: where did you put the gas backflow stop ?
There isn't one, not strictly necessary when using a propane bottle and the burner is running at atmospheric pressure.
Is this burner big enough for knife making in a forge built in a 20# propane tank? Volume will be about 600 cubic inches, lined with 2"" of ceramic wool, refractory cement, IR reflectant, and sliding brick doors closed on the back and semi-closing the front.
Yes, it should be big enough. I run mine off a 20# tank. I also use 2" of ceramic wool and have been able to get it up to welding heat.
Could you not fit a second gate valve as the air flow regulator instead of the metal plate? You could do it all with standard fittings....no threading either and it would be a lot neater and controllable
that would probably work
Very nice burner. Great job.
Q: Can the lamp pipe length be cut in half.? (I noticed you never turned the air plate out more than about a half inch).
Q:. Is this a better design than your previous model.? If I was only going to make one, which one should I make.?
Q:. On you Home Page you have a blacksmith hammer on the top. Is that an Alex Steele made hammer.??
Thank you.
PS. Love your Grand National.
Yes, you can cut the lamp pile shorter. This is a better design than the previous because it lets you control the air fuel mixture. As far as the hammer, I made it in Alex's shop under his instruction while taking his class several years ago. Thanks!
@@MakeStuffNation
Thank you.
Excellent build on the burner and the hammer.
Hi, great video! Now...after buying all the parts for one burner I just realized that I will need two burners for my forge... so let's say I will build two of them, how do I connect the two of them? Thanks!
You can use a "T" adapter in your gas line to run multiple burners.
@@MakeStuffNation thank you!
Adding up just what you need to make one , I believe it would be cheaper to buy one
True but sometimes it's nice to make things just for the sake of making them.
That is true , reward and satisfaction
can you/do you add any natural gas sealer to the threaded areas?
It probably wouldn't hurt. I only hook the burner up to a propane source in an open well ventilated area and I always check the connections with soapy water for leaks. So far I haven't had any issues.
I made the burner but the regulator listed in the description is no longer available. The only ones I can find are 0-30 psi regulators. Will this have an impact on the performance since its max is 10 psi lower? I can't seem to find a 0-40 psi regulator anywhere.
0 to 30 should work just fine.
Doesn't the yellow mean it's not combusting right?
how difficult would it be to make this into a 2 burner setup?
Thanks!
mike lipton wondering that myself
Pretty simple. Just make another burner, take the 1/8" cap off and add a coupling with another nipple. The do the same setup with the T in the burner and cap that end off
About twice as difficult as the single burner setup. You'd just have to throw a tee in to split the gas between two burners instead of the one.
Does anyone know if there will be a significant different if an 8" long nipple is used?
It shouldn't make much of a difference.
I want to build a burner but l don't want to use threaded pipe, just pipes then l will weld together. Any ideas on pipe dimensions?
you can use the same dimensions, just be careful welding the pipe if it has zinc on it. Check out the MK2 version which has some significant improvements though. It gets a small gas bottle style forge hot enough to weld. czcams.com/video/BjqA4VQMpiM/video.html
In a previous video, you used teflon tape on the mig tip, shouldn't you use trflon tape onm all the fittings (the gas lines)?
You only tape the pipe threads, not compression or flare. Buy the yellow tape for gas. White is for water.
Only the threads that have pressure and might leak. Not the large pipe threads that form the body.
Does this burner make enough heat to melt copper in a 20# propane tank furnace in a reasonable length of time.?
Not sure. I'm in the process of building a furnace similar to what you're describing so I'll let you know.
Thanks very much. I will look forward to it.
@@MakeStuffNation hey how did it go?
Could you remove the old video or have a link on screen to this video? I almost made the old one needlessly. This is what I’ll build. Great vid
There is a direct link at the end of the old video
Can I swap out the 1-1/2 x 3/4 reducer for a 1-1/4 x 3/4 one?
yes but you might not get as stable of a flame. the larger change in diameter helps slow the airflow at the exit of the burner and hold a steady flame.
I just finished making the previous version. Shouldn't be too hard to get a similarly functioning one to this made with that as a base. Maybe just solder on a threaded
pole to the 1/8" pipe.
That could work
@@MakeStuffNation For a while I might just move a brick by hand tbh.
What kind of thread tape is that? Is it made for gas lines?
The wrong kind. Nope.
Wonder if it gets up to welding heat ????
Yes, it gets to welding heat in my forge insulated with ceramic wool.
Could I use this for a burner to build a turkey fryer?
I wouldn't recommend it. The flame is too localized to heat a large pot. Plus you can probably pick up a turkey fryer burner at a big box store for cheaper than you could get all these parts.
the first 1/8" T looks bigger than 1/8". Is the second one 1/8"? I notice it's a different type(squared)? How much was the total cost for all these parts
They should all be 1/8" NPT fittings until you get to the adapter for the 1/4" valve
Do you know by any chances if it would work with a 0-30 psi regulator?
I believe my regulator is 0-30 and it works well. I often dial mine down to very low pressure to conserve fuel when I don't need the forge at super high temps.
@@MakeStuffNation Super. Thank you so much for your response
The end where the flames coming out, how can you attach that to a forge?
There are many videos here that show that part. I like the "Essential Craftsman" page. He had a lot of Blacksmith Videos as well as others. He had a great video on building a small forge, great tips in that video...
Make a hole and stick it in. Hold it with wire or a spring. It doesnt need to fit tightly.
Can this be adapted to sport 3 burners instead of one?
You could hook up multiple burners to the same bottle using t-fittings on the supply lines.
I built this burner and it is not coming out as fast. I have the nice blue but it seems slow.
I only have a 30 psi regulator. It says 40psi on my dial and you said high pressure.
Do I need even higher than 40 psi?
Sorry, I'm not sure. I think 30 should be more than enough.
@@MakeStuffNation Maybe I got the wrong tips or something. Thanks. I'll figure this out eventually. It has been sitting collecting dust xD Along with the rest of my projects.
just noticed your telfon tape is white, I think you want to use the yellow, it's rated for corrosive gases, FYI
You could have just added a swing door to your old one. Tap a screw on the back edge of the big reducer and screwed on a rounded aluminum disc.
You're a completely right. this is a great suggestion. Probably more cost-effective due to the reduced number of parts.
how long estimated does a tank last with this setup?
Not sure. I've gotten many hours out of one tank though.
Instead of using JB weld could you solder the fitting
Yes, both options work.
suggestion: can you not buy two extra 1/8” x 3” Lamp Nipples to attach to the brass T and have two nuts (one on the inside and one on the outside) to securely attach the fitting center on the end of the pipe?
Yes, that would work
How many BTU's you think it puts out?
No idea. Enough if your forge/furnace is properly insulated (I can get mine to welding heat).
You need to have pipe tape or dope on ALL threads.
True. It should also be gas rated tape or dope.
if you run the drill though the t part the drill will drift to the lowest part and you dont need to file a flat
great suggestion!
Is there a reason you don’t use a flashback arrestor?
nope. not really. it would be a good safety feature to add.
Make Stuff Nation awesome, I’ll add one to mine when I build one.
I’ve just completed the torch only to find it isn’t working properly is there any chance I could have your email for troubleshooting purposes
How exactly is it not working?
Appreciate the reply! I ended up having to stick a blower in the side for extra airflow now it’s good 👍
How much psi at the orifice?
I haven't measured it but the regulator is adjustable from very low to high pressure.
Where can I get a parts list
Parts list is down in the video description.
Will this work with Natural Gas?
Technically speaking, yes. But natural gas usually is not a very good choice for forging.
Natural gas will work fine but you have to use a forced air style burner to get the temps you want.
@@mattjohnson7006 weird considering industrial forging ia completely done with natural gas
Why is the brass used instead of steel/iron?
It will not oxidize like steel. You'll notice it is only used on the parts that will transfer pressurized gas. Iron will oxidize, pit, and eventually leak.
Jody Smith is correct but in this case it was just what my local store had available in the correct sizes.
Mine backfires a lot and I can’t figure out why
Look at the adjustable flared nozzle on the Ron Reil Burner
Adjustable = Tunable to stop the backfiring and sputtering
why not use allthread instead of the lamp pipe? No need for the cap.
You probably could use allthread although I don't know if its the same thread style as the pipe fittings.
Will a 0-20PSI Propane Hose and Regulator give enough pressure?
Most would recommend 30PSI or higher if you're going to forge weld. If you are using a forge just for small, non forge-welding stuff, then i see no reason. I would still recommend that you get a good quality one though.
Thank you! I think I'll just order the 0-40 rather than buy the 0-20 and end up wanting to upgrade later.
fire start after @09:20
Thanks for the support!