My 2016 F150 XL 88,000 miles , steering has been a little jinky some clicking noise while steering but was good till the other day. Made a hard turn into hardware store and when I went to leave all power steering was gone, had to beast mode it all the way home. Went to Ford dealership the next day to schedule an appointment then I came home and decided to CZcams the issue. Found your video and everything you mentioned was a precursor to my EPS (Electronic Power Steering) failing. I looked up to see what a rack and pinion unit cost, anywhere from 700 for a refurbished unit all the way to 1500 for a new unit, all that will need the program reinstalled. So I've ordered a belt, new bolts, steering centering tool and new tie rod kit with the hopes of being back on the road by the end of the week. Thanks for doing this video and saving me at least $1500.00 or more for what the dealership would've charged (parts, labor, fault code and reprogramming). Stay tuned, more to come once I dig into it.
Great video. Anyone with a 2016 or newer be aware there may not be a flat spot on the nut for the 42 mm wrench. Seems that Ford is trying to REALLY make this unserviceable. I used a pipe wrench and got it off (it's a regular right hand thread). Belt # is EPS-36842 or 38006842, I ordered on E-Bay for $54.
I'm an amateur backyard mechanic with little to no experience especially when it comes to power steering. The only thing I can tell you is how to check the fluid and explain the components of a hydraulic power steering system. I watched this video ONCE and spurred an interest. Especially when he said “I might have been able to replace it on the vehicle”. I ordered the belt off of Ebay and three days later I dove both hands into this adventure. I am here to say, I didn't have a jack, Jack stands, or a way to get my tire off. I have a 2016 F150 FX4 with a leveling lift and I'm 5’10” average build. I had the passenger tie rod off in about 15min, the steering boot was an absolute pain in the butt to deal with while getting the nylon nut cap loose by myself. The motor cover came off and low and behold the belt sheared in half. Grand total time from start to easily turning the steering wheel again was about 30-40 min. Remember, this was accomplished without removing the entire rack and pinion from the truck and without removing the tire. Good luck everyone and thank you Josh for your detailed video. I wish you would have added a link to the part to purchase but great video.
Thank you so much sir. I'm so glad it helped. This was literally the first of video of this kind I've made. I'll try to post the link to the part for others. Great idea.
Can confirm you can do this in the truck. Wasn't too hard and fixed the issue. For the Allen head there is one that's a pain and I'd recommend an Allen bit that can go onto an extension to make your life easier vs an Allen key. If you order the Edelman kit, their video has a discrepancy on the part number. 9609 is the correct part for 2015-2017 f150.
You're not lying about the forums. I just found another video about this after my truck sitting for 3 months. Jacked it up and pulled that cover and sure enough....belt. i was about to muscle it to the Ford dealership and sell the POS (2013). Probably still will but with working power steering.
Dorman has a brand new EPAS rack, not remanufactured for 1000.00. just replaced mine; it was completely locked up. Maybe it was belt or maybe it was the DC motor seized. It came with a programming OBD 2 module for calibration.
To condense 14 minutes of talking: Removing the entire EPS is optional, however if removing, use the standard removal procedures. IF removing the entire EPS, use a paint marker to mark the original steering shaft position in relation to the EPS. Remove the passenger side inner tie rod boot. Remove the plastic collar protecting the passenger inner tie rod nut faces. Remove the passenger inner tie rod with a special tool or a 42mm open end wrench. Use a 5mm Allen socket to remove the EPS belt housing. Mark the original positions of the electric motor and worm gear with a paint marker. Mark the original position of the belt tensioner. Loosen belt tension with a torx bit, torx size not specified. Remove tensioner and belt. Belt is directional, point arrows away from the electric motor. Install belt and belt tensioner. Adjust tensioner so there is minimal belt slack or back to original positon. Replace belt housing seal if needed. Install belt housing, torque not specified. Install inner tie rod collar with large end facing outwards. Install inner tie rod, follow normal procedures, slide collar over nut faces. Install boot, replace if necessary. Install EPS with normal EPS install procedures. Alignment check recommended.
Got my belt changed and power steering works as advertised. When I opened the housing the belt was over the top of the tension cam rather than under the tension cam. I don't know how it would've jumped the tension cam and gotten over the top of the tension cam. The teeth on the belt were chewed off. But I ran it under the tension cam and set the tension by loosening the torx screw to adjust the tension. Still believe the belt was installed wrong during build up. It seem impossible for belt in a sealed housing to jump over the tension cam and on top rather than underneath it. Beats the heck out of me!
Ok. I need help. Mine is a 2018 xlt sport 4x4. 2.7l ecoboost v6. Wheel bearings are good. Alignment is a little off. But when I'm steering at random speeds on the road, I'll hear a quieter vibration that sounds like I'm riding with a lift kit and knobby tires. All the rotors and pads are new. The only thing else I think it could be is tire issues. But I'm curious if anyone else has ever experienced this issue?
Could you help me with mine? I feel a vibration in the steering wheel on dirt roads. I feel a small knock in my spine. Someone who has already changed that part helps me.
I’ve got a doozy of a question. My steering is freezing at night and fully locked out in the mornings until the air temp hits the high 30’s. I’m pretty sure i got water in the gears because i was just in LA helping out during the floods. Is it possible to open that second section where the gears are with it still on the truck and hopefully drain out the water?
Ooh.. man.. I'll look into it but my thing is that there shouldn't be water in there in the first place. You could try opening the section with the belt and see if it's there. I would thing that's where it is as if it were in the gear section it should power through...
@@Jgrover79 so i cracked open the belt housing and maybe 1/4 ounce dribbled out. let it dry overnight and yet the problem is still there. I am luckily moving to a warmer area for the spring where it never dips below freezing so I know the problem will go away until I come back home in the winter and I will just have to see if the problem fixes itself over the summer or if I am buying a new steering rack haha.
@@Jgrover79 weirdly enough it wont power through it... every morning if its below 40f I have to let the truck warm up for 20 min then gently move the steering back and fourth about 1/2 inch each way over and over and after about 5-10 minuets of that it goes back to normal with no resistance at all. it will start to freeze up again as I drive too if its cold enough outside.
if its a little jerky as in on certain rotations it is harder to turn? and its around the same spot ex: always about 1 rotation on a left turn check your lower steering shaft the U-bolts could be seized up
My 2018 raptor has some gab/loss , i replaced all links but still same issur/ do u think i need to replace that belt ?? Maybe has some damage that cause this issue to me
Same here, I own a 2018 raptor and all of a sudden the steering wheel went heavy and a message came " Steering Assist Fault Service Required". Any luck on any repair?
I would like to know as well, still looking for that belt. (2011 f150 platinum) believe that is the first year they equipped the electric steering. Looks like the exact rack and pinion setup as well. Thanks for the video!!
The housing is different, on model older than 2015 the belt is inside the housing and you take only the front plate off. Still pretty easy and accessible
@D.Russ Nothing to lose.. no gears so if it's grinding is got to be the belt shipping teeth unless you have something mechanical going on with ball joints or shock tower.
@@Jgrover79 I've got a 2017 with only 57k miles and I'm hearing a "groaning" sound that I can hear and feel through the steering wheel, but the steering itself works and feels fine otherwise. I think the groaning sound is only happening when I turn it to the left and then back to center, doesn't do it when I turn right. Does this sound like the belt is already going?
My 2016 F150 XL 88,000 miles , steering has been a little jinky some clicking noise while steering but was good till the other day. Made a hard turn into hardware store and when I went to leave all power steering was gone, had to beast mode it all the way home.
Went to Ford dealership the next day to schedule an appointment then I came home and decided to CZcams the issue. Found your video and everything you mentioned was a precursor to my EPS (Electronic Power Steering) failing. I looked up to see what a rack and pinion unit cost, anywhere from 700 for a refurbished unit all the way to 1500 for a new unit, all that will need the program reinstalled.
So I've ordered a belt, new bolts, steering centering tool and new tie rod kit with the hopes of being back on the road by the end of the week. Thanks for doing this video and saving me at least $1500.00 or more for what the dealership would've charged (parts, labor, fault code and reprogramming). Stay tuned, more to come once I dig into it.
Any luck?
Everything about these new vehicles are good for the environment including more throw away parts
Great video. Anyone with a 2016 or newer be aware there may not be a flat spot on the nut for the 42 mm wrench. Seems that Ford is trying to REALLY make this unserviceable. I used a pipe wrench and got it off (it's a regular right hand thread). Belt # is EPS-36842 or 38006842, I ordered on E-Bay for $54.
I'm an amateur backyard mechanic with little to no experience especially when it comes to power steering. The only thing I can tell you is how to check the fluid and explain the components of a hydraulic power steering system.
I watched this video ONCE and spurred an interest. Especially when he said “I might have been able to replace it on the vehicle”. I ordered the belt off of Ebay and three days later I dove both hands into this adventure.
I am here to say, I didn't have a jack, Jack stands, or a way to get my tire off. I have a 2016 F150 FX4 with a leveling lift and I'm 5’10” average build. I had the passenger tie rod off in about 15min, the steering boot was an absolute pain in the butt to deal with while getting the nylon nut cap loose by myself. The motor cover came off and low and behold the belt sheared in half. Grand total time from start to easily turning the steering wheel again was about 30-40 min.
Remember, this was accomplished without removing the entire rack and pinion from the truck and without removing the tire. Good luck everyone and thank you Josh for your detailed video. I wish you would have added a link to the part to purchase but great video.
Thank you so much sir. I'm so glad it helped. This was literally the first of video of this kind I've made. I'll try to post the link to the part for others. Great idea.
I was wondering if it could be done without dropping the rack. I'm going to try this thanks. 🤞🏾
@@drakewoods5335 so how did it turn out? I'd like to see someone's success story as well.
@@Jgrover79 Where you able to get the part number for the new belt?
What's the belt part number??
WOW Just freaken WOW!! Thank you, thank you, thank you! What a money saving method if it works for your F150! Thanks...
Thanks man tgis video helped me a lot i didnt take off the rack and pinion the belt was toasted but now its fixed
Can confirm you can do this in the truck. Wasn't too hard and fixed the issue. For the Allen head there is one that's a pain and I'd recommend an Allen bit that can go onto an extension to make your life easier vs an Allen key.
If you order the Edelman kit, their video has a discrepancy on the part number. 9609 is the correct part for 2015-2017 f150.
You're not lying about the forums. I just found another video about this after my truck sitting for 3 months. Jacked it up and pulled that cover and sure enough....belt. i was about to muscle it to the Ford dealership and sell the POS (2013). Probably still will but with working power steering.
13' are the best years newer ones have loads of issues
@@spiceyfrenchtoast9421 2015-17 had even less issues.
Good video. I’ve done a bunch of them without having to remove the rack out of the truck
Is this a permanent fix or will the new one only last a few months
Very nice information and explanation
Great video my man 👍
Good job !
nice job
Thanks for sharing this video sir
Dorman has a brand new EPAS rack, not remanufactured for 1000.00. just replaced mine; it was completely locked up. Maybe it was belt or maybe it was the DC motor seized. It came with a programming OBD 2 module for calibration.
To condense 14 minutes of talking:
Removing the entire EPS is optional, however if removing, use the standard removal procedures.
IF removing the entire EPS, use a paint marker to mark the original steering shaft position in relation to the EPS.
Remove the passenger side inner tie rod boot.
Remove the plastic collar protecting the passenger inner tie rod nut faces.
Remove the passenger inner tie rod with a special tool or a 42mm open end wrench.
Use a 5mm Allen socket to remove the EPS belt housing.
Mark the original positions of the electric motor and worm gear with a paint marker.
Mark the original position of the belt tensioner.
Loosen belt tension with a torx bit, torx size not specified.
Remove tensioner and belt.
Belt is directional, point arrows away from the electric motor.
Install belt and belt tensioner.
Adjust tensioner so there is minimal belt slack or back to original positon.
Replace belt housing seal if needed.
Install belt housing, torque not specified.
Install inner tie rod collar with large end facing outwards.
Install inner tie rod, follow normal procedures, slide collar over nut faces.
Install boot, replace if necessary.
Install EPS with normal EPS install procedures.
Alignment check recommended.
Awesome video my man, feeling much better about tearing mine down!
How did your rebuild go?
Good job like this video, may I ask if it have timing mark ??
Could you see the bearings on the backside of that big pulley when you changed your belt?
I had the boot come off on my there a little mud and dirt do you think that recked the shaft
Got my belt changed and power steering works as advertised. When I opened the housing the belt was over the top of the tension cam rather than under the tension cam. I don't know how it would've jumped the tension cam and gotten over the top of the tension cam. The teeth on the belt were chewed off. But I ran it under the tension cam and set the tension by loosening the torx screw to adjust the tension. Still believe the belt was installed wrong during build up. It seem impossible for belt in a sealed housing to jump over the tension cam and on top rather than underneath it. Beats the heck out of me!
Did you have any messages when this belt failed?
Any updates on belt
Ok. I need help. Mine is a 2018 xlt sport 4x4. 2.7l ecoboost v6. Wheel bearings are good. Alignment is a little off. But when I'm steering at random speeds on the road, I'll hear a quieter vibration that sounds like I'm riding with a lift kit and knobby tires. All the rotors and pads are new. The only thing else I think it could be is tire issues. But I'm curious if anyone else has ever experienced this issue?
how did you pop the clamp off that secures that plastic cover?
Did you have to reprogram or recalibrate anything
Does anyone know the part number for the belt?
Mine make a grinning noise after I replace the belt what could it be ?
Hi, does the repair work well? Good basic instructional video, by the way.
Please read my comment.
I'm now down the road a few months and not an issue whatsoever!:)
Joshua did your stearing went out and did you get codes u0420-00 u0413-00.. abs and traction contro swerging car on dashhh
Could you help me with mine? I feel a vibration in the steering wheel on dirt roads. I feel a small knock in my spine. Someone who has already changed that part helps me.
Say good bye, ford is going to put out a hit on this kid
I’ve got a doozy of a question. My steering is freezing at night and fully locked out in the mornings until the air temp hits the high 30’s. I’m pretty sure i got water in the gears because i was just in LA helping out during the floods. Is it possible to open that second section where the gears are with it still on the truck and hopefully drain out the water?
Ooh.. man.. I'll look into it but my thing is that there shouldn't be water in there in the first place. You could try opening the section with the belt and see if it's there. I would thing that's where it is as if it were in the gear section it should power through...
@@Jgrover79 so i cracked open the belt housing and maybe 1/4 ounce dribbled out. let it dry overnight and yet the problem is still there. I am luckily moving to a warmer area for the spring where it never dips below freezing so I know the problem will go away until I come back home in the winter and I will just have to see if the problem fixes itself over the summer or if I am buying a new steering rack haha.
@@Jgrover79 weirdly enough it wont power through it... every morning if its below 40f I have to let the truck warm up for 20 min then gently move the steering back and fourth about 1/2 inch each way over and over and after about 5-10 minuets of that it goes back to normal with no resistance at all. it will start to freeze up again as I drive too if its cold enough outside.
I just follow all the steps and put the new belt in and it’s still giving me the same problem steering wheel super hard
Any luck? I am having the same issue, but I have not replaced the belt yet
Still working fine? I can feel my steering wheel catching on to something and making noise everytime i make any slight movement on the steering wheel
I want to know too! My steering is starting to act up.
Don't think it matters which way you put the belt on if you put the belt around the directions still matches up
What's belt's number?
What were your symptoms? I have a 2016 f150 and steering is a little jerky at times
if its a little jerky as in on certain rotations it is harder to turn? and its around the same spot ex: always about 1 rotation on a left turn check your lower steering shaft the U-bolts could be seized up
My 2018 raptor has some gab/loss , i replaced all links but still same issur/ do u think i need to replace that belt ?? Maybe has some damage that cause this issue to me
That sounds like it is the belt to me.. at some point it will completely stop working.. power steering I mean
Gab/loss?
Same here, I own a 2018 raptor and all of a sudden the steering wheel went heavy and a message came " Steering Assist Fault Service Required".
Any luck on any repair?
Does a bad belt trow any code?
My 2015 f150 just dropped out a “steering assist fault” message
Came here to ask this. My 2011 is saying the same thing. Have you diagnosed yours yet?
Same message here and not sure what the repair is.
Any update?
@@joshuaanderson6423 Same message here and not sure what the repair is.
Any update?
Ford,what was wrong with the ole power steering systems
Does this work on a 2011 or are they different?
I would like to know as well, still looking for that belt. (2011 f150 platinum) believe that is the first year they equipped the electric steering. Looks like the exact rack and pinion setup as well. Thanks for the video!!
The housing is different, on model older than 2015 the belt is inside the housing and you take only the front plate off. Still pretty easy and accessible
@@gablacasseb Hello Sir. Do you know how That bigger wheel on the screw spindle is called and if its possible to purchase one ?
Thanks in advance :)
What was it doing why you decided to remove it? Was it making noise? Like what was the issue?
I replaced mine because I lost all power steering.
It was actually catching and grinding when turning the wheel.
Ok, well I guess I'll try and change it out. I'm getting that grinding noise.
@D.Russ Nothing to lose.. no gears so if it's grinding is got to be the belt shipping teeth unless you have something mechanical going on with ball joints or shock tower.
@@Jgrover79 I've got a 2017 with only 57k miles and I'm hearing a "groaning" sound that I can hear and feel through the steering wheel, but the steering itself works and feels fine otherwise. I think the groaning sound is only happening when I turn it to the left and then back to center, doesn't do it when I turn right. Does this sound like the belt is already going?
What is the torque spec on the epas belt tensioner?
i seen a guy do this with the rack in the truck...55 bucks
You're lying you did not pull that steering rack out in 20 minutes