For not being a mechanic, you made a thorough and careful presentation of the installation procedure. Many so called mechanics could learn from this. Thank You.
Keeping my '08 KLR 650 at 65 mph or lower kept it from burning oil. Almost every Kawasaki manual says if you run at high speeds you should fill the oil to the top line because it is normal to use oil. My '08 went 85,000 miles before a teenage driver decided to total it while my neighbor was riding it.
If you go on motorcycle forums you will be tempted to change out a lot of "deficiencies" in the motorcycle design. Doesn't mean that people who never go on forums ruin their bikes though. Like anything else, it is how you use it. 4x4s that are used off road a lot also have a lot of maintenance and repairs. Same thing with bikes that are ridden full throttle all the time.
Thanks for the great video! The Thermo Bob is on the to do list for my new KLR as well. I appreciate you letting us know where you might have done things a little differently. This will make it much easier for the rest of us.
If you leave the radiator cap on until after you remove the plug very little fluid will come out because of the vacuum you can then prop the bottle up and remove the cap to release the vacuum and save yourself the mess.
Just subbed. Great video on the Thermo-Bob. Versys X300 owner here and have a lot of X300 content on my channel. Kawasaki fan for decades. Thanks for sharing.
Professional tip leave the radiator cap on until you get the drain plug out it’ll eliminate the big spray. In doing so you’ll be able to control the drain rate with the cap.
Also putting a wide mouth funnel in your container will control a lot of misaligned runoff. I have one with a screen in case I drop the plug (I suffer from butter fingers) or crush washer it doesn’t end up in the bottom of my jug. Works in the refilling part also to avoid contaminants from being introduced to the system.
I'm switching to a 16 tooth front sprocket to keep the revs down around my cruising speed of 65 mph. I think a lot of the oil burning comes from how the owner rides and maintains it.
Good job. I thought about doing that to my green 2, but feel it is unnecessary. I think Kawasaki had a bad run of rings and castings which caused the cylinders to wear prematurely. Have a good one. ✌️
@@KLRJUNE I doubt if the tbob can cause overheating. Once the thermostat is open it's basically the same cooling system the bike comes from the factory with. The t'bob is to prevent over cooling, and the big temperature swings. I have the origianl tbob on my 08, it runs consistently at just below centre of temp gauge, even in snotty slow trails
First mod I did to my G2-17 while it was still new was thermo bob. That bike has never burned any oil. My G2 is a great bike. So far I can see only 2 compelling reasons the get a G3. The fuel injection so I can go up to 8000 plus feet from sea level (which is only a 4 hour ride) without carb issues, and because the plastics are waaaay better looking and way better design. Other than that, nothing is tempting me. Is there a G3 temp gauge mod yet? There needs to be. That and the lack of a tach....silly.
Do you ride it in a lot of stop and go traffic? Or do any slow trail riding? My theory is that people who don't, don't see a lot of issues since you're bike essentially stays at the same temp during your entire ride. Where as someone like me who frequently has the thermostat opening and closing during a single ride would see issues.
Swanky, when you do change your coolant..try the Twin Air Engine Ice......My Gen 1 and Gen 2 really do run cooler.....also a a higher PSI radiator cap helps.....Florida guys know...................
Looks like an easy install, not sure about the need for it; however, all that counts is for you to think it was worth it. I’m of the opinion that if it and the doohickey mods were needed, Kawasaki would have done it. Your videos have been great as you do the work yourself!
My old Gen 1 KLR had over 70,000 miles on it. No Thermo Bob. Original Doo-hickey. I currently have a Gen 2 with 10,000 miles on it. Still all original. I do see the argument to do both though.
It was a better safe than sorry type thing for me. I think you can get away without doing either but both can help you out in the long run if you ride the bike hard and do a lot of off roading.
I have riden over the last 30 years 4 klr650's , including now the latest klr650 witch a I really like and non of my bikes ever burnt oil or had any doohickey problems. So I would never change a thing on the engine .
The Thermo-Bob is not very well explained. Why is a 690F thermostat (660F is stock) not as good as the Thermo-Bob (690F)? The answer, I think, has something to do with the default valve-closed bleed thru the radiator. There is a default valve-closed bleed-amount of coolant that flows into the radiator thru a bypass orfice in a thermostat so that the radiator coolant is not ice cold when the thermostat begins to open. Supposedly, the KLR does not contain this bleed orfice, and so the radiator stays ice cold until the thermostat opens (from Thermo-Bob): Bikes with cold thermostats and no radiator bypass. Kawasaki’s thermostat bikes (such as the KLR and KLX) suffer from two problems: the factory thermostat is only 158°F AND they have no radiator bypass at all, which results in engine cooling relying on hot/cold/hot/cold ‘splashes’ of coolant, which promotes the cylinder going out of round and resulting in increased oil consumption. ... Ok, so it also seems that the radiator is so large, and coolant pump flow so little, that without a bleed orfice to the radiator, when the thermostat opens, the cylinder gets hot-cold alternating flows of coolant. But this doesn't make much sense either, because a) a thermostat opens slowly with increasing temps, and b) the cold radiator output is mixed with the half-open thermostat output. The only way to know what the truth is, is by measuring the temp of the coolant as it enters the cylinder while you warm up a bike. Seems somewhat bogus to me. I think if there is a disparity in temp around a cylinder, it is because the front faces the wind, and the rear stays hotter. The front fins should be less than the rear fins. It seems to me that the reason for the lower 660F Kawi thermo is to avoid the 'bleed' orfice by opening the thermo earlier. FWIW. I'd say don't mess with the original thermo based upon these facts. 'The bike is still not burning much oil at all - it’s around 12 ounces per 1,000 miles.' -- Thermo-Bob ??? Not much???
20 quarts or so yeah. But you get a temp gauge out of the deal too, the Thermo-bob 2 kit is a bit cheaper. My 14 might've burned that in in 30k miles so still not going to come out on top but I'd assume your loosing some compression too.
My 2018 DRZ-S has 25,000+ miles on it and uses oil as well. While it is much easier to check the oil on a KLR than a DRZ, it's still indicative of a cost cutting shortcut. At least the KLR guys have a oil sight glass. If I could spend $400 USD to make my DRZ better, I would. Yes, the stator on my DRZ went at exactly 21,500 miles. That was $250 USD right there. I did the work myself, pretty easy in my opinion. Factory service manuals FTW.
I didn't like how the upper hose contacted the head at the rocker cover seam so I slid a piece of fire sleeve (it's immediately above the exhaust port) and secured it in place. The other thing to remember is you are reading the temp at the cylinder... And the ECU is reading at the bottom of the radiator. My fan doesn't come on till 220°f and shuts off at 210°f measured at the head
You say it could stop it from using oil but you didn’t say it does I have seen a video the 2022 still has the same old piston design the old ones have so after you get a few miles on it and run 5,000 rpms all day something tells me it’s still going to use oil but thanks for the video .
I'm no expert but from what I gather there are a number of different reasons these can start to burn oil. One can be a bad motor to begin with like you mentioned. But another can be the drastic temp changes from stop and go riding with the stock cooling system. My thought on that is: Depending on how and where you ride, along with a number of other factors can determine how much of an issue it causes.
How can I keep my 2016 impala from burning oil.....and making me look like a soccer mom when driving it? Tag me when you post the tutorial, thanks swanky cat!
And thanks for letting me know where that damn squeak is coming from, most likely. I knew the gas tank was involved cause hitting it would effect the noise. Was that tape the ‘fix’? Or how did it get fixed? Looks like it was still rubbing. I’m thinking a rubber grommet of some shape and fit. Maybe Teflon or deforming the fairing edge.
I just bought a 23 KLR 650 s and have put 600 miles on it so far. In your honest opinion would you reccomend this? I want to do it . seems like a good thing. Anything to avoid oil use.
It certainly won't end up saving you money since the cost of the hit outweighs the cost of a LOT of oil. But it definitely made me feel better. I talk about it in this video: czcams.com/video/kFXNSiXmWMA/video.htmlsi=NyX_jSfexhlWi-Sm
that has nothing to do with burning oil ! your car bike burns oil due to the piston oil holes being clogged with crusty gritty oil. it clogs the holes and forces the oil into the cylinder where it burns off. use good clean oil amd change frequently to avoid a engine from burning oil
No this is different, checkout the technical write up on it. The cylinder becomes out of round due to the ambient air temp coolant shocking the hot engine over and over. If you watch your cars temp gauge it will rise, get to a point and then drop back to operating temp (when the thermostat opens). The KLR gauge stays cold until you get stuck in traffic on a hot day or are riding slow off road. Then it will rise to what it's normal operating point should be, and then it dumps coolant that's just been sitting stagnant in the radiator into the hot engine and the temp gauge drastically drops.
@@SwankyCatProductions As retired motorbike/small engine mechanic, this is where I feel the thermobob argument falls down. The thermostat has no bleed hole-agreed. When the thermostat reaches opening temp, it opens slowly and the cool radiator water mixes with the warmer water in the pump and hoses etc and goes into the engine jackets already above rad temp. The cylinder does not see major temp shocks at all. The thermostat only opens enough to hold the coolant at the thermostat rated temp. No massive dumps of cold water happen. Once the rad water is hotter the thermostat opens more to allow more cooling. The drastic movement of the temp gauge does not reflect a large change in temp, the reading is not linear. Also the cylinder sees much greater temp variations every time a fresh air/fuel charge is drawn in (cools) and when ignition occurs (rapid heating). This would be far more likely to cause a cylinder to distort but it doesn't. A few years of KLR's had bad oil burning issues (around 2008/9?) caused by component issues. All KLR's will burn oil if run at 5000+ rpms for long periods- thermobob equipped or not. Oil selection can reduce this burning but not eliminate it. It is a characteristic of these engines. If you run them hard you must keep a close eye on the oil level . Sorry for the rant- just my opinion.
If you search the words "Swanky Cat" and then a topic like "Sprocket", or whatever else your looking for, and you'll probably find what your looking for haha I've been at it for a while. czcams.com/video/qG6tv4LA8tA/video.htmlsi=ODEIwzx2_M5MnZNc
Yep exactly, but it should open after a few minutes of driving and then stay open until the bike cools down. On the KLR it won't open until you're stopped in traffic or working it hard on the trails. Then it cycles between open and closed.
My 2014.5 did when I got it at 9k miles, it did not have the Thermo-bob and it sounds like it might help so I'm trying it on the new Gen3. It's not burning any yet but it's only hot a few hundred miles so far.
you turned 1 hose into 2 and added multiple point of failure. and for what? worse cooling and more consistent heat? the cooling is not what warps engines, its too much heat that warps metal. your engine at anything under 212 being rapidly cooled will do no damage or warping. i think this mod is more trouble than its worth.
picking up my KLR this week. I was thinking it might be best to do the Thermo Bob before I run it at all. I feel like it will help with the engine break-in. anyone have any thoughts on this theory?
Back when I had my Gen2 it was more annoying than anything. Also just having the engine run at a normal temp seemed like a good idea, that always bugged me about the old KLR too.
You can’t seriously think this is only about oil. The cylinder ovals, this helps prevent it. Burning oil has far more consequences than the expense of adding oil.
"Don't use this video as a tutorial, there is better outside" *uses a torque wrench for tightening screws* Me: still watching who doesn't even own a KLR
The thermo Bob doesn’t make any sense to begin with. The claim is that it allows the engine to warm up faster. That doesn’t make sense though because you are essentially bypassing the thermostat, which causes it to take much longer to warm up, which will end up making it run richer for longer. Running rich will cause the cylinder walls to get washed down with gasoline and cause more wear, not less; all while simultaneously wrecking your fuel economy.
This is done to prevent the possibility of burning oil. I doubt there’s a Gen 3 out there that burns oil yet. Not every KLR burns oil. And how that applies to a new rider is beyond me. New riders can’t check oil when their NEW bike hits 20k miles? Odd thing to say.
@@P1ayD0hpaul a new rider needs to learn a lot of things, especially off-road style riding, having to check oil religiously due to a bad design is something they shouldn’t have to worry about.
My gen 3 doesn't burn any oil.I run 75 and 80 30 miles each way to work every day.doesnt use a drop.what are you people talking about? ever thought about leaving the factory engineering alone and see how it works? you'd be surprised how long a motorcycle will last if you leave it alone and just follow the maintenance schedule in the owners manual.
If highway riding is all your doing then you probably won't have any issues. The cooling system works fine for that, sort of. But oil burning isn't a theory or something made up by aftermarket part manufacturers in order to take your money. I personally owned a Gen2 KLR with less than 10k miles on it and it burned oil already. I actually remember watching the coolant temp rise and then drastically fall like no other vehicle I'd owned. And back then I had no idea what a thermo bob was, I just knew the temperature fluctuations while I was riding off road or in slow moving traffic seemed like a bad thing.
For not being a mechanic, you made a thorough and careful presentation of the installation procedure. Many so called mechanics could learn from this. Thank You.
Wow, well thank you!!!
Keeping my '08 KLR 650 at 65 mph or lower kept it from burning oil. Almost every Kawasaki manual says if you run at high speeds you should fill the oil to the top line because it is normal to use oil. My '08 went 85,000 miles before a teenage driver decided to total it while my neighbor was riding it.
Whoa 85000 miles! How often did you change oil?
@@Toyeboy89 , every 5000 miles.
If you go on motorcycle forums you will be tempted to change out a lot of "deficiencies" in the motorcycle design. Doesn't mean that people who never go on forums ruin their bikes though. Like anything else, it is how you use it. 4x4s that are used off road a lot also have a lot of maintenance and repairs. Same thing with bikes that are ridden full throttle all the time.
Thanks for the great video! The Thermo Bob is on the to do list for my new KLR as well. I appreciate you letting us know where you might have done things a little differently. This will make it much easier for the rest of us.
Thanks James! Glad to hear it helped!
It's great to have a certified motorcycle mechanic to follow along with as I perform the install.
I think you could just leave the rubber sleeve (protection from rubbing) on and cut through it. The clamps will still fit.
Really great video. Just got the kit for my 22 klr. Thanks swanky cat, appreciate the videos.
Thanks!
Thanks for the video, just did my thermobob, temp gauge, and tachometer.
If you leave the radiator cap on until after you remove the plug very little fluid will come out because of the vacuum you can then prop the bottle up and remove the cap to release the vacuum and save yourself the mess.
Just subbed. Great video on the Thermo-Bob. Versys X300 owner here and have a lot of X300 content on my channel. Kawasaki fan for decades. Thanks for sharing.
Professional tip leave the radiator cap on until you get the drain plug out it’ll eliminate the big spray. In doing so you’ll be able to control the drain rate with the cap.
Ah crap I suppose it would have, good info thanks!
Also putting a wide mouth funnel in your container will control a lot of misaligned runoff. I have one with a screen in case I drop the plug (I suffer from butter fingers) or crush washer it doesn’t end up in the bottom of my jug. Works in the refilling part also to avoid contaminants from being introduced to the system.
That fluctuation of it cooling the coolant and dumping is normal.
Kawasaki engineers aren't stupid.
I'm switching to a 16 tooth front sprocket to keep the revs down around my cruising speed of 65 mph. I think a lot of the oil burning comes from how the owner rides and maintains it.
Mmm yeah I think that will definitely help. Should help keep your bolts from rattling out too haha.
@@SwankyCatProductions No kidding! Couldn't believe how loose my muffler clamp was yesterday when checking bolts. The KLR is definitely a buzzy ride.
Good job. I thought about doing that to my green 2, but feel it is unnecessary. I think Kawasaki had a bad run of rings and castings which caused the cylinders to wear prematurely. Have a good one. ✌️
Exactly, not necessary.
@@KLRJUNE I doubt if the tbob can cause overheating. Once the thermostat is open it's basically the same cooling system the bike comes from the factory with. The t'bob is to prevent over cooling, and the big temperature swings. I have the origianl tbob on my 08, it runs consistently at just below centre of temp gauge, even in snotty slow trails
Very cool mod. It looks like it would be a fun project for sure.
You made that look easy- I’m impressed. Great job.
Great video! Always fun to mods and repairs be made. 😃👍
Thanks! Yep!
Great video!
Thanks Chris!
Felt works really well for the squeaking.
Mines actually been quite since I snugged it down but that would work too!
First mod I did to my G2-17 while it was still new was thermo bob. That bike has never burned any oil. My G2 is a great bike. So far I can see only 2 compelling reasons the get a G3. The fuel injection so I can go up to 8000 plus feet from sea level (which is only a 4 hour ride) without carb issues, and because the plastics are waaaay better looking and way better design. Other than that, nothing is tempting me. Is there a G3 temp gauge mod yet? There needs to be. That and the lack of a tach....silly.
Thanks for the video bud! Ordered the bob for my '22 last night. Surprised these bikes don't have a coolant bypass factory!
I just watched Eagle Mike explain the oil consumption and thermobob. I’ll probably do that to my 2011.
It might not actually save me any money in the long run but I sure feel better about it!!!
2015 KLR bone stock does not burn oil zero issues with 17,000+ miles daily rider to work!
Do you ride it in a lot of stop and go traffic? Or do any slow trail riding? My theory is that people who don't, don't see a lot of issues since you're bike essentially stays at the same temp during your entire ride. Where as someone like me who frequently has the thermostat opening and closing during a single ride would see issues.
Swanky, when you do change your coolant..try the Twin Air Engine Ice......My Gen 1 and Gen 2 really do run cooler.....also a a higher PSI radiator cap helps.....Florida guys know...................
Especially with the color fairing, this KLR looks more like a budget KTM! =)
Looks like an easy install, not sure about the need for it; however, all that counts is for you to think it was worth it. I’m of the opinion that if it and the doohickey mods were needed, Kawasaki would have done it. Your videos have been great as you do the work yourself!
My old Gen 1 KLR had over 70,000 miles on it. No Thermo Bob. Original Doo-hickey. I currently have a Gen 2 with 10,000 miles on it. Still all original. I do see the argument to do both though.
It was a better safe than sorry type thing for me. I think you can get away without doing either but both can help you out in the long run if you ride the bike hard and do a lot of off roading.
Cars have been using bypass in the cooling system for years Why kaw didn’t I’m sure is about the cost to change out weighs the warranty claims
I've got the 'bob on my gen2. I like it
Very nicely done. Thank you.
Thanks DirtRoadKLR!
I have riden over the last 30 years 4 klr650's , including now the latest klr650 witch a I really like and non of my bikes ever burnt oil or had any doohickey problems. So I would never change a thing on the engine .
Where is ScratchBabble? Excellent install video Ben! Thank you!
The Thermo-Bob is not very well explained. Why is a 690F thermostat (660F is stock) not as good as the Thermo-Bob (690F)? The answer, I think, has something to do with the default valve-closed bleed thru the radiator. There is a default valve-closed bleed-amount of coolant that flows into the radiator thru a bypass orfice in a thermostat so that the radiator coolant is not ice cold when the thermostat begins to open. Supposedly, the KLR does not contain this bleed orfice, and so the radiator stays ice cold until the thermostat opens (from Thermo-Bob):
Bikes with cold thermostats and no radiator bypass. Kawasaki’s thermostat bikes (such as the KLR and KLX) suffer from two problems: the factory thermostat is only 158°F AND they have no radiator bypass at all, which results in engine cooling relying on hot/cold/hot/cold ‘splashes’ of coolant, which promotes the cylinder going out of round and resulting in increased oil consumption.
... Ok, so it also seems that the radiator is so large, and coolant pump flow so little, that without a bleed orfice to the radiator, when the thermostat opens, the cylinder gets hot-cold alternating flows of coolant. But this doesn't make much sense either, because a) a thermostat opens slowly with increasing temps, and b) the cold radiator output is mixed with the half-open thermostat output.
The only way to know what the truth is, is by measuring the temp of the coolant as it enters the cylinder while you warm up a bike. Seems somewhat bogus to me.
I think if there is a disparity in temp around a cylinder, it is because the front faces the wind, and the rear stays hotter. The front fins should be less than the rear fins.
It seems to me that the reason for the lower 660F Kawi thermo is to avoid the 'bleed' orfice by opening the thermo earlier. FWIW. I'd say don't mess with the original thermo based upon these facts.
'The bike is still not burning much oil at all - it’s around 12 ounces per 1,000 miles.' -- Thermo-Bob
??? Not much???
Great video thanks for the information well done
Thanks, glad it was helpful!
Man, 200 Buck's for that kit, man, that would buy a lot of oil 🪔!
20 quarts or so yeah. But you get a temp gauge out of the deal too, the Thermo-bob 2 kit is a bit cheaper. My 14 might've burned that in in 30k miles so still not going to come out on top but I'd assume your loosing some compression too.
Its not a about the cost of the oil, its about the longevity and health of the engine over time.
My 2018 DRZ-S has 25,000+ miles on it and uses oil as well. While it is much easier to check the oil on a KLR than a DRZ, it's still indicative of a cost cutting shortcut. At least the KLR guys have a oil sight glass. If I could spend $400 USD to make my DRZ better, I would. Yes, the stator on my DRZ went at exactly 21,500 miles. That was $250 USD right there. I did the work myself, pretty easy in my opinion. Factory service manuals FTW.
Also, i knew a guy in highshool that everyone called Thermo-Bob as well
muy buen trabajo amigo
Thermo bob looks a pain in ass to install
Uhhhh.....the cooling fan is what brings the temperature needle down when it comes on.......
I didn't like how the upper hose contacted the head at the rocker cover seam so I slid a piece of fire sleeve (it's immediately above the exhaust port) and secured it in place. The other thing to remember is you are reading the temp at the cylinder... And the ECU is reading at the bottom of the radiator. My fan doesn't come on till 220°f and shuts off at 210°f measured at the head
You say it could stop it from using oil but you didn’t say it does I have seen a video the 2022 still has the same old piston design the old ones have so after you get a few miles on it and run 5,000 rpms all day something tells me it’s still going to use oil but thanks for the video .
I'm no expert but from what I gather there are a number of different reasons these can start to burn oil. One can be a bad motor to begin with like you mentioned. But another can be the drastic temp changes from stop and go riding with the stock cooling system. My thought on that is: Depending on how and where you ride, along with a number of other factors can determine how much of an issue it causes.
My 2015 don't burn oil. The Manuel says not to idle for my than 5 minutes either
Really enjoy this videos. What do you suggest for a 2008 klr 650?
Nothing ride it till it start giving you issues then fix them as you go
6:49 That's what she said.
Haha I knew this was coming when I was editing it.
How can I keep my 2016 impala from burning oil.....and making me look like a soccer mom when driving it? Tag me when you post the tutorial, thanks swanky cat!
Awesome video, again. My Thermo Bob is ordered, after seeing how easy it is to instal. $200 is well worth the peace of mind.
And thanks for letting me know where that damn squeak is coming from, most likely. I knew the gas tank was involved cause hitting it would effect the noise.
Was that tape the ‘fix’? Or how did it get fixed? Looks like it was still rubbing. I’m thinking a rubber grommet of some shape and fit. Maybe Teflon or deforming the fairing edge.
I just bought a 23 KLR 650 s and have put 600 miles on it so far. In your honest opinion would you reccomend this? I want to do it . seems like a good thing. Anything to avoid oil use.
It certainly won't end up saving you money since the cost of the hit outweighs the cost of a LOT of oil. But it definitely made me feel better. I talk about it in this video: czcams.com/video/kFXNSiXmWMA/video.htmlsi=NyX_jSfexhlWi-Sm
You actually addressed the most annoying problem with mine. The squeak!!!!!! What did you put there to stop it? Between the side panels.
I actually just tightened my bolts up a little and that did the trick
@@SwankyCatProductions Thank you!
Sorry, this is to hot the engine? Whent running at cool areas?
that has nothing to do with burning oil !
your car bike burns oil due to the piston oil holes being clogged with crusty gritty oil. it clogs the holes and forces the oil into the cylinder where it burns off.
use good clean oil amd change frequently to avoid a engine from burning oil
No this is different, checkout the technical write up on it. The cylinder becomes out of round due to the ambient air temp coolant shocking the hot engine over and over. If you watch your cars temp gauge it will rise, get to a point and then drop back to operating temp (when the thermostat opens). The KLR gauge stays cold until you get stuck in traffic on a hot day or are riding slow off road. Then it will rise to what it's normal operating point should be, and then it dumps coolant that's just been sitting stagnant in the radiator into the hot engine and the temp gauge drastically drops.
@@SwankyCatProductions As retired motorbike/small engine mechanic, this is where I feel the thermobob argument falls down. The thermostat has no bleed hole-agreed. When the thermostat reaches opening temp, it opens slowly and the cool radiator water mixes with the warmer water in the pump and hoses etc and goes into the engine jackets already above rad temp. The cylinder does not see major temp shocks at all. The thermostat only opens enough to hold the coolant at the thermostat rated temp. No massive dumps of cold water happen. Once the rad water is hotter the thermostat opens more to allow more cooling. The drastic movement of the temp gauge does not reflect a large change in temp, the reading is not linear. Also the cylinder sees much greater temp variations every time a fresh air/fuel charge is drawn in (cools) and when ignition occurs (rapid heating). This would be far more likely to cause a cylinder to distort but it doesn't. A few years of KLR's had bad oil burning issues (around 2008/9?) caused by component issues. All KLR's will burn oil if run at 5000+ rpms for long periods- thermobob equipped or not. Oil selection can reduce this burning but not eliminate it. It is a characteristic of these engines. If you run them hard you must keep a close eye on the oil level . Sorry for the rant- just my opinion.
I highly doubt it. It would come from factory if it was needed.
Also thinking about a 16 toothed spocket. I mostly ride on pavemant, I know ist gear is a high Whats your thoughts?
If you search the words "Swanky Cat" and then a topic like "Sprocket", or whatever else your looking for, and you'll probably find what your looking for haha I've been at it for a while.
czcams.com/video/qG6tv4LA8tA/video.htmlsi=ODEIwzx2_M5MnZNc
Isn't that why they put a thermostat in to Regulate the temp
Yep exactly, but it should open after a few minutes of driving and then stay open until the bike cools down. On the KLR it won't open until you're stopped in traffic or working it hard on the trails. Then it cycles between open and closed.
That's crazy
I dont have a thermabob and dont burn oil. 11,000 miles on my klr
Do you ride off-road a lot?
@@SwankyCatProductions both on and off road
I haven't been watching them all so maybe you covered this. Was your KLR burning oil or is this just a preventative thing?
My 2014.5 did when I got it at 9k miles, it did not have the Thermo-bob and it sounds like it might help so I'm trying it on the new Gen3. It's not burning any yet but it's only hot a few hundred miles so far.
@@SwankyCatProductions cool, thanks. I'm picking my 2022 up this weekend:)
Do you have the info for valve adjustment for it you dont have a video doing that?
Nope never done them.
Your back on a klr how do like the new one
I love it! Still not a Tenere but in some situations that's a really good thing.
What happens if you live in Florida and just permanently take out the thermostat? Does that negate the need for the the thermo bob?
That would keep the temperature more steady but might make it run pretty cool.
GEN 3 WON'T BURN A SINGLE DROP , IF YOUR DOES ,CALL SERVICE.
you turned 1 hose into 2 and added multiple point of failure. and for what? worse cooling and more consistent heat? the cooling is not what warps engines, its too much heat that warps metal. your engine at anything under 212 being rapidly cooled will do no damage or warping. i think this mod is more trouble than its worth.
picking up my KLR this week. I was thinking it might be best to do the Thermo Bob before I run it at all. I feel like it will help with the engine break-in. anyone have any thoughts on this theory?
I wondered that too. I did it around 300 I think. Seems like better late than never but I'm not sure there is such a thing as to early?
Will this void the factory warranty?
You are modifying the coolant system. Yes
Wait u change ur mind on crash bars from couple videos ago
No, I posted that a day after I mounted that just to be the first one with a video on it. This along with a few other videos was less time sensitive.
Ben. It's been 7 months. Is she burning oil or nah
I haven't been able to ride much yet this summer but it doesn't look like it. Still haven't had to add a drop!
Do you check the oil level with the klr off or running ?
Off, with it straight up and down.
hi mate what do you think of the thermo-bob after having it on for a bit
I'm still happy with it, definitely keeps it at a much more consistent temperature!
thanks for that like your videos
Did you do the do hickey mod ?
Naaa might do it eventually but I'm not worried about it yet.
Man, seems like everybody thinks there gonna go broke if they have to add some oil to there bike !
Back when I had my Gen2 it was more annoying than anything. Also just having the engine run at a normal temp seemed like a good idea, that always bugged me about the old KLR too.
Man, I live in Arizona it's hot here, dose it make your bike run cooler !
Its not about the cost of the oil, it's about the longevity and health of the engine over long term ownership.
You can’t seriously think this is only about oil. The cylinder ovals, this helps prevent it. Burning oil has far more consequences than the expense of adding oil.
How many foot pound did you torque ??
I don't remember, I did whatever the directions called for.
Do you need a Thermo-Bob-3 on a Gen-III?? I thought the TB-3's were for Gen-II with the over-sized 10gl. tanks.
"Don't use this video as a tutorial, there is better outside"
*uses a torque wrench for tightening screws*
Me: still watching who doesn't even own a KLR
Haha. I generally don't use one but supposedly that housing is pretty brittle so I didn't want to take any chances.
I had three klrs and none of them burned oil
Wow that's pretty good odds.
@@SwankyCatProductions Not really.
The thermo Bob doesn’t make any sense to begin with. The claim is that it allows the engine to warm up faster. That doesn’t make sense though because you are essentially bypassing the thermostat, which causes it to take much longer to warm up, which will end up making it run richer for longer. Running rich will cause the cylinder walls to get washed down with gasoline and cause more wear, not less; all while simultaneously wrecking your fuel economy.
You obviously know nothing about the OEM cooling system design on the KLR650
@@billz410 sure. If that helps you justify another farkle, you can go ahead and assume that.
They should have addressed the oil consumption concern. Big mistake. I wouldn’t recommend a klr to a new rider because of that very thing.
It's a good way to learn pre-ride checks! Haha. I'm not sure I'd recommend one as a first bike either honestly.
This is done to prevent the possibility of burning oil. I doubt there’s a Gen 3 out there that burns oil yet. Not every KLR burns oil.
And how that applies to a new rider is beyond me. New riders can’t check oil when their NEW bike hits 20k miles? Odd thing to say.
@@P1ayD0hpaul a new rider needs to learn a lot of things, especially off-road style riding, having to check oil religiously due to a bad design is something they shouldn’t have to worry about.
@@AT2021Rocker Do you ever check the oil in your car or truck?
Just got my first klr, a 2023, really enjoy it...only has 12 miles on it!
My gen 3 doesn't burn any oil.I run 75 and 80 30 miles each way to work every day.doesnt use a drop.what are you people talking about? ever thought about leaving the factory engineering alone and see how it works? you'd be surprised how long a motorcycle will last if you leave it alone and just follow the maintenance schedule in the owners manual.
If highway riding is all your doing then you probably won't have any issues. The cooling system works fine for that, sort of. But oil burning isn't a theory or something made up by aftermarket part manufacturers in order to take your money. I personally owned a Gen2 KLR with less than 10k miles on it and it burned oil already. I actually remember watching the coolant temp rise and then drastically fall like no other vehicle I'd owned. And back then I had no idea what a thermo bob was, I just knew the temperature fluctuations while I was riding off road or in slow moving traffic seemed like a bad thing.
@@SwankyCatProductions uugh I 10 through the middle of New Orleans at 8 am has traffic.
6:47 That's what she said.