Making Aluminum Bronze (Part 2): Melting Copper and Aluminum / 5 POUND BAR
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- čas přidán 11. 09. 2024
- Experimenting with DIY Aluminum Bronze.
This is the 2nd video in this series.
Part 1: • Making Aluminum Bronze...
Part 3: • Making Aluminum Bronze...
I THINK YOU WILL LIKE THIS!!! bit.ly/2SxnT1N
This bar came out just shy of being 5lb.
In my homemade foundry furnace, I made an alloy of 89% copper and 11% aluminum by weight.
It has some amazing properties: It does not tarnish, it is nearly hard as steel, and looks like gold.
www.instructab...
Since zinc is used to harden both copper and aluminum, I'd suggest tossing a couple of post-'82 pennies in the melt to see if you can get that up to a seriously strong alloy...
Im a caster as well. I’ve recently started making Aluminium bronze and it my favorite for casting of late. I do lost foam with green sand. It’s a great metal for tools as well and being very pretty. I’ve casted tomahawks, daggers,paper weights in the shape of brass knuckles (😂)and a blacksmiths I enjoyed you video and subscribed hammer head. Thank you.
What a beauty! And what a great quenching 👍👍
yeah man that was a great session , great big bar there love the sand mixing I need to pour a big one in a sand mold on my channel , I did a Nordic gold couple weeks back still waiting on more tin to arrive as well sub you another like on e mate !
Does anyone know; is the melting point of aluminum bronze any higher once it has been alloyed?
Oddly satisfying watching metal quench in a pan. Reminds me of bacon, mmmm bacon 🥓
Put that thing on a grinder or sander and progressively move up to a buffer and polish it up real nice but after you pour it is there a way you can reheat it while still in the mold to smooth out all of the rough spots because I've seen that done with silicone molds and Kilns with gold which eliminates all of the concentric rings on the top and stratification on the bottom for a much nicer looking ingot that doesn't have to be grinded or sanded as much and lot less work I think for a nice looking end product
I felt that, with the firewool lining the inside refractory cement wasnt necessary so I just used regular concrete mix since it's so much cheaper- up only halfway to the top as well, then one layer of 1" kaowool inside the bottom half with the cement, two layers around the top and it reduced the weight (as opposed to having the whole main chamber composed of cement) and also has been doing very well- it's my heat source that needs upgrading. Been using a 1lb propane torch- changed to 1lb MAPP but I have to babysit it due to the pressure fluctuations of the hand-torch.
I've heard you can use plain old fiberglass as a substitute for all the other wools and plaster of Paris instead of concrete or other alternatives but I do not have never have had or even used a forge I'm still picking brains and gathering information before I start investing money trying to flatten the learning curve but I wanted to share that with you and also see if maybe you had any novel suggestions that might help me. My intuition tells me your best bet with the heat Source would be build your own nozzle from scratch because everything you buy was built using substandard materials with the bottom line being the only real consideration and nothing but one big compromise which seldom leeds to Ideal end results
@@Rob337_aka_CancelProof Fiberglass I personally doubt but never tried. Sand/Plaster of Paris works but breaks down fast. Have not tried plain cement but 3000 degree furnace cement requires repair after about 3 melts. The kao wool withstands the heat well. You can build a furnace out of mud or dig a hole in the ground but do you want to spend your time building furnaces or melting metal? If melting metal you will have to spend the money for good furnace materials. Can't think of the name, check out forging videos, they line the forge with a special type of cement that will hold up to the heat. Lead, zinc and tin you can melt on a gas stove.
Don't forget safety equipment. Resperator, gloves, face shield. Caution about zinc. If you get it hot enough to boil off it gives off fumes that can kill you.
@@leesnow5859 I think I'm going to try one of these I have a friend with a welder so this is much more expedient and cheaper since all I'll need is a couple bricks aluminum silicate refractory bricks
czcams.com/video/VTzKIs19eZE/video.html
Nice video - thanks.
Water quench from near melt temperature - I wonder what the metallurgical structure looks like. Can any metallurgists answer that?
The heat comes from outside of The Crucible and copper has a lower melting point Than The Crucible or it would shaped very differently now but either that's copper inside of your Crucible still or somehow the inside of The Crucible which was the furthest from the heat Source managed to get hotter than the outside which makes no sense at all so how do you clean that mess out of your Crucible after it cools?
Will a 30% copper 70 % aluminium alloy work for casting a cannon? I want to use this low temperature eutectic....
Magnificent result, congratulations.
I ask Do you always introduce aluminum before copper?
I noticed that just put the metal stick after the oven very hot.
For some reason ?
I will appreciate your advice
Thank you
What is ratio of copper and aluminum
What size is the crucible your using in this video ?
I want to make stuff out of bronze I'm hoping I can figure out a way to make a statue mold
Don't be so hard on yourself, you're not perfect. But you're really good at this stuf.
I've been looking at things like Nordic gold but I don't think they're going to do what I need them to do so I'm leaning towards aluminum bronze now and looking for ways to alloy it with other things to make it more manageable through cold working processes that could allow it to be more practical for making jewelry when alloyed with gold at low karat amounts like 6K (25%) because people still want gold jewelry but can't afford 14 karat or 18 karat so if anybody has any recommendations on any metal or nonmetal Alloys that could suit my needs I think affordable low karat gold jewelry that retains all or most of the qualities and characteristics of higher karat gold jewelry looks appealing to me as very marketable.
You want to stay away from aluminium (aloominum?)foil and soda cans mate.(not that I saw you use any). Soda cans have too much manganese in the aluminium . I think foils and the heavier baking dish type foils have manganese in them as well I think. That's a pity I guess as there is never any shortage of soda pop cans around. A good bloke to talk to about casting, casting sand, facing sand, moulds (molds), copes, drags, sprues, risers and all that sort of thing is Olfoundryman on youtube. He is a metalurgist and is MOST helpful. If you're thinking about having a go at steel and cast iron, it wouldn't hurt to have a look at luckygen1001 on youtube either. Any rate, good on yuh for getting out there and doing something while others just sit on their bums fiddling with their ipods and playing computer games
Thank you. I haven’t heard that about foil and pop cans before. I don’t like using cans because it seems there is more paint, etc. on them than metal. I do love those other channels. Cast Iron would be very cool but I’m not sure I’m set up for that. Perhaps someday. Thanks for watching.
@@GeekGuyMJ Yep. The thing I forgot to mention is that there is a hell of a lot of surface area in pop can aluminium and not much aluminium metal. That means that the percentage of oxidation is going to be greatly increased and you will end up with a lot of dross, slag, whatever unless you can figure out some way of scavenging the excess oxygen in the furnace. I have heard that using carbon (charcoal)works to a certain extent because it sucks up oxygen to make CO2. Seems like a lot of work though for not much return. Better to use casting aluminium if you can get it or old mag wheels from the dump.
That’s a good call.
Your awesome man !!!!
Thanks for watching 😁
Can you do some small ones and add small amounts of other alloying elements metals or nonmetals in Trace Amounts like 1- 2% give or take and tweak the recipe for better grain size or Surface texture or to make it more cold workable to be made into jewelry things like tin zinc lead magnesium beryllium business silicone phosphorus or anything else to improve on that. I've done lots of homework and would love to help you brainstorm on such a project if you're interested and I don't have my notes with me or I would have included more specific recommendations but would gladly dig them up if there's any potentials future in pursuing that with you because I don't have a Forge as I'm working on a shoestring budget that I do have plenty of time and motivation and more than enough intellectual capacity to dedicate to such a task if you're interested and as far as being able to cold work the material I think annealing would be a much better choice than quenching and allow you to successfully stamp it for better results. Quenching increases hardness and tensile strength while annealing increases malleability it's just the difference in how the crystals form their lattice under different conditions
is it possible to draw wire or sheet from this alloy if no it is useless pls reply thanks
Ur useless
How long it take you to melt the metal?
Thanks for watching. Depending on the amount of metal, it can take from 8 minutes to 30 to fully melt.
Why water and not oil??
That’s one way to clean the bench
Mix gold➕copeer yellow ❓❓
Custom-made fly sarcophagus (that's new)
Anikin Flywalker
yup, bugs do some stupid stuff
RiP fly