Yoo thank you so much for making this. I've been trying to wrap my head around all this because I was looking into getting a lemon ghost and I currently have a greenline axanthic! Thank you for breaking all this down! Super interesting!
Glad I could help! I remember when first getting into hoggies that Lemon Ghost (with quick, not deep research) was considered dominant, but when actually trying to learn more, I realized it was just a very strong lineage. It was so strong that when bred to normals, a lot of them still showed very good yellow colors (which is why people thought it was dominant). However, if you don't eventually put a lemon ghost back into the lineage, it will gradually become "diluted" which is why some "lemon ghosts" look normal. They do come from a lemon ghost lineage (usually), but they no longer are carrying or expressing what makes them a lemon ghost.
I produced a Blonde ToxiConda last year. Softened colors and a very reduced headstamp in comparison to the other ToxiConda in the clutch. Blonde also gets prettier with age, I've noticed!
That's awesome! I have noticed our blonde superconda looks so much nicer than when we first got him. It's become more and more intense I love the soft, but deep colors his scales are getting!
Yes, actually! I have two projects I intend on working on at the moment. I want to mostly combine unrelated red lines (I plan on crossing Phoenix reds, raging reds, and color blasts) to help make a very healthy line of naturally high pigmented red hognoses. I also want to introduce them into other morphs, other than the usual albino. Other than that, I actually want to work on scale structure ! Our het sunburst female, Viper, has particularly long and very "razor-like" scales that give her a rougher feeling than most hoggies. We held back her first-born son that also had that scale structure and want to see if we can breed for a very rough texture. I noticed it makes the colors pop a little more, since there is more skin visible (the long scales are slightly thinner than normal scales).
How often do you recommend outcrossing in ethical line-breeding. I have always steered clear of line-bred traits because I'm concerned about the increased risk of genetic anomalies and deformity.
If doing only semi-related pairings (like half-siblings with only one shared parent), then every 2 gens is usually good. If doing direct relations (parent to child or sibling to sibling), then I would outcross on their next breeding. Breeders like JMG Reptiles (Jeff Galewood) always focus on structure, anatomy, and health while developing lines, so they are outcrossed very often, which means they are generally very healthy. There are some lines that are mildly inbred at the moment, namely extreme red albinos, because people didn't outcross as much as they should have, so we notice a lot more bug-eyes (very large and round eyes) in addition to infertility and a higher chance of developing health issues. If you have a hognose that exhibits a sign of not being from an outcrossed lineage, you can still breed it if you pair it to a hognose that will balance that trait out. A bug-eyed Hognose should not be paired to another hognose with bug eyes, but if paired to a hognose with a very well developed brow ridge and normal sized eyes, the babies will be healthier and more genetically diverse (while still preserving some of the original line that developed issues). It's a long process to do things right, but line breeding correctly can help a lot of morphs and even traits that would have otherwise been lost or ignored. Pink Pastel Albinos (often called PPAs) originally had low fertility and mild neurological issues (from the original snake, not due to inbreeding). Some dedicated breeders still worked with it and gradually managed to breed out the neuro issues and low fertility. That's why it's a lot more common now than years ago when it was first discovered. Hope that helps!
What does “nicer” mean in this context (like saying they get nicer when they shed)? Does that equate to bold colors becoming more bold, and the base color fading away?
In this context, nicer would mean more noticeable. When young, they often are more normal looking, but as they shed, those traits become more pronounced. Lemon Ghost often starts off more yellow than normals, but at 3-4 years old, they are (no joke) highlighter yellow colored. Extreme reds often are only slightly more red than normals, but as adults, their reds become a lot more intense. I hope that helps!
Do you think it will be ok to house my hognose in the same room with my Guinea pig? I know not to handle and change clothes etc. but do you feel it could stress either animal
We have rodents in the same house and some gerbils in the same room as our hognoses and we haven't noticed any stress from either. As long as you sanitize before handling your hognose, it should be fine, since guinea pigs aren't on their diet anyway :)
@@SnakefulGrace thanks so much! I was kinda worried my skinny pig would get most stressed! Thanks for answering and i love your channel. I hope many others find you!
Yoo thank you so much for making this. I've been trying to wrap my head around all this because I was looking into getting a lemon ghost and I currently have a greenline axanthic! Thank you for breaking all this down! Super interesting!
Glad I could help! I remember when first getting into hoggies that Lemon Ghost (with quick, not deep research) was considered dominant, but when actually trying to learn more, I realized it was just a very strong lineage. It was so strong that when bred to normals, a lot of them still showed very good yellow colors (which is why people thought it was dominant). However, if you don't eventually put a lemon ghost back into the lineage, it will gradually become "diluted" which is why some "lemon ghosts" look normal. They do come from a lemon ghost lineage (usually), but they no longer are carrying or expressing what makes them a lemon ghost.
Excellent info Thanks!
Another great video, and very informative! Thanx for that!
Glad you enjoyed it!
This was fantastic information! 👏😁
Glad it was helpful!
I produced a Blonde ToxiConda last year. Softened colors and a very reduced headstamp in comparison to the other ToxiConda in the clutch. Blonde also gets prettier with age, I've noticed!
That's awesome! I have noticed our blonde superconda looks so much nicer than when we first got him. It's become more and more intense I love the soft, but deep colors his scales are getting!
Thanks for the info!
Glad to help!
Great video
Thanks!
At 0:09, it says "aspring" instead of "aspiring". Now to watch adorable sneks.
Ah darn, I missed that typo and now I shall forever be haunted. 🤣😅😭
Great video! Are there any new color morphs you are trying to develop yourself?
Yes, actually! I have two projects I intend on working on at the moment. I want to mostly combine unrelated red lines (I plan on crossing Phoenix reds, raging reds, and color blasts) to help make a very healthy line of naturally high pigmented red hognoses. I also want to introduce them into other morphs, other than the usual albino.
Other than that, I actually want to work on scale structure ! Our het sunburst female, Viper, has particularly long and very "razor-like" scales that give her a rougher feeling than most hoggies. We held back her first-born son that also had that scale structure and want to see if we can breed for a very rough texture. I noticed it makes the colors pop a little more, since there is more skin visible (the long scales are slightly thinner than normal scales).
How often do you recommend outcrossing in ethical line-breeding. I have always steered clear of line-bred traits because I'm concerned about the increased risk of genetic anomalies and deformity.
If doing only semi-related pairings (like half-siblings with only one shared parent), then every 2 gens is usually good. If doing direct relations (parent to child or sibling to sibling), then I would outcross on their next breeding.
Breeders like JMG Reptiles (Jeff Galewood) always focus on structure, anatomy, and health while developing lines, so they are outcrossed very often, which means they are generally very healthy.
There are some lines that are mildly inbred at the moment, namely extreme red albinos, because people didn't outcross as much as they should have, so we notice a lot more bug-eyes (very large and round eyes) in addition to infertility and a higher chance of developing health issues.
If you have a hognose that exhibits a sign of not being from an outcrossed lineage, you can still breed it if you pair it to a hognose that will balance that trait out. A bug-eyed Hognose should not be paired to another hognose with bug eyes, but if paired to a hognose with a very well developed brow ridge and normal sized eyes, the babies will be healthier and more genetically diverse (while still preserving some of the original line that developed issues).
It's a long process to do things right, but line breeding correctly can help a lot of morphs and even traits that would have otherwise been lost or ignored.
Pink Pastel Albinos (often called PPAs) originally had low fertility and mild neurological issues (from the original snake, not due to inbreeding). Some dedicated breeders still worked with it and gradually managed to breed out the neuro issues and low fertility. That's why it's a lot more common now than years ago when it was first discovered.
Hope that helps!
What does “nicer” mean in this context (like saying they get nicer when they shed)? Does that equate to bold colors becoming more bold, and the base color fading away?
In this context, nicer would mean more noticeable. When young, they often are more normal looking, but as they shed, those traits become more pronounced. Lemon Ghost often starts off more yellow than normals, but at 3-4 years old, they are (no joke) highlighter yellow colored. Extreme reds often are only slightly more red than normals, but as adults, their reds become a lot more intense.
I hope that helps!
Great Video ! Hog Nose Snakes Are Beyond Cute And Beautiful ❤️❤️🙏🙏 Love There Cute Faces ! 🏵️💐🌸🌼🍀🌺🇩🇪🇺🇸💙💚💛❤️ Again Love All Your Videos ❤️💛💙💚
Thank you very much! You are the best, Debbie!
Do you think it will be ok to house my hognose in the same room with my Guinea pig? I know not to handle and change clothes etc. but do you feel it could stress either animal
We have rodents in the same house and some gerbils in the same room as our hognoses and we haven't noticed any stress from either. As long as you sanitize before handling your hognose, it should be fine, since guinea pigs aren't on their diet anyway :)
@@SnakefulGrace thanks so much! I was kinda worried my skinny pig would get most stressed! Thanks for answering and i love your channel. I hope many others find you!
@@Milquetoast702 My pleasure! Glad to help :)