Jack Burgess! The Sportsmobile Jack Burgess? That Jack Burgess? My wife and I purchased a Sportsmobile in 2002 and wound up on a Sportsmobile user list, and you were one of the wiser contributors. I remember the Urban Assault Vehicle photo. Just sold the Sportsmobile a couple of years ago. What a great machine.
Yes, that Jack Burgess. We still have ours with about 125,000 mils on it! We spent Christmas Eve in Yosemite National Park and will be there again later this month. In May we will be driving to Wyoming to see the wild life and do some fly fishing! Jack
Nice explanation. Nikon has automated focus bracketing but I’ve never used it. Olympus also has it and I _have_ used that. I seriously think Olympus are better suited to this application than a dSLR. Everything is smaller and lighter and it’s so well integrated. Canon and Sony haven’t implemented this feature yet. With a really small camera you can actually hang it _upside down_ to get it closer to ‘ground level’. I wish more Americans would use Canon or Sony or Olympus. Then I wouldn’t have to put up with you mispronouncing ‘Nikon’.😁
Great information, I do almost everything the same, except, I use Luminar4 to swap the skies. To bad the video is ruined by the huge TSG logo on the right, a quarter of the size would be enough.
Another great approach is to set your camera on f/stop priority (the shutter speed will adjust to the scene). Use a fairly wide-angle lens set at f16,22 or more on tripod,. Be certain that the lighting is very even. Take several shots with slight underexposure in each. Caution - don't use a super wide angle lens that may give fish eye effect. Joe Carleo - Telly award winning TV producer and print journalist.
Thanks so much for the info. I'm having a heckuva time getting shots in focus. I'll try that. Question: What about video (I have the same issue)? I'm using an old Canon VIXIA HF10, btw.
If you are ever looking for another interesting way to take photos, if you have a DSLR and any zoom lenses, then you can zoom in and it completely changes the depth in the photo. I think it makes photos look more realistic because real railroad photographers often use zoom so then can photograph trains off in the distance.
Pete...I have a pair of 250 watt conventional lights plus another pair of Lowel Tota-Light tungsten flood lights with stands...not cheap. But the type of light doesn't much matter with iPads and iPhones since they are able to produce good photos with a mixture of lighting types. In the video, the photo that I took was lit by florescents in the ceiling and one of the Lowel lights to produce the lighting similar to early morning with shadows. Jack Burgess
@@yvfan As a long time user of Tota lights in my job, I have to say I never liked them because they got so hot and I burnt myself a few times. However, there is a small hole with a thumb screw to secure an umbrella - shoot through or reflective - and when used that way, they work well. The object is to _increase_ the physical size of the light source. This diffuses the light source and makes for softer shadows, as long as the umbrella is close to the subject. To far away and it’s just another per point light source. I was lucky because I had both silver and daylight temperature reflective umbrellas. The daylight ones were rare. So rare, in fact, that I have never seen another set. They were made by Westcott and although they were quite large, they were extremely useful. In your case, I would put it right up behind the iPad. Don’t worry too much about the iPad casting a shadow. The light will spread so much that you probably won’t notice it much. Just lean in, tough the shutter button and step out again.
I have the same question. I really like the idea of using the iPad and I purchased some extras for my camera tripod to replicate your set up. Thank you.
thank you for your time and sharing with us
Jack Burgess! The Sportsmobile Jack Burgess? That Jack Burgess? My wife and I purchased a Sportsmobile in 2002 and wound up on a Sportsmobile user list, and you were one of the wiser contributors. I remember the Urban Assault Vehicle photo. Just sold the Sportsmobile a couple of years ago. What a great machine.
Yes, that Jack Burgess. We still have ours with about 125,000 mils on it! We spent Christmas Eve in Yosemite National Park and will be there again later this month. In May we will be driving to Wyoming to see the wild life and do some fly fishing!
Jack
Some great tips and techniques thank you very much
Glad it was helpful!
Thanks Jack, great tutorial and well explained, I will have to try this out.
Regards, Gary.
Excellent, thank you
Great tutorial!
Thanks for sharing your Expertise Jack, another excellent Video, I am always impressed at the depth of knowledge you have.
Thank you Peter...
Jack Burgess
saludos lindo video
Nice explanation. Nikon has automated focus bracketing but I’ve never used it. Olympus also has it and I _have_ used that. I seriously think Olympus are better suited to this application than a dSLR. Everything is smaller and lighter and it’s so well integrated. Canon and Sony haven’t implemented this feature yet.
With a really small camera you can actually hang it _upside down_ to get it closer to ‘ground level’.
I wish more Americans would use Canon or Sony or Olympus. Then I wouldn’t have to put up with you mispronouncing ‘Nikon’.😁
I bought an automatic shutter that works with Bluetooth that way you don’t have to touch the screen and you eliminate the wiggle problem
Great information, I do almost everything the same, except, I use Luminar4 to swap the skies. To bad the video is ruined by the huge TSG logo on the right, a quarter of the size would be enough.
You can thank the content thieves for that watermark!
que hermosa maqueta
Gracias Juan!
Jack
Another great approach is to set your camera on f/stop priority (the shutter speed will adjust to the scene). Use a fairly wide-angle lens set at f16,22 or more on tripod,. Be certain that the lighting is very even. Take several shots with slight underexposure in each. Caution - don't use a super wide angle lens that may give fish eye effect. Joe Carleo - Telly award winning TV producer and print journalist.
Thanks so much for the info. I'm having a heckuva time getting shots in focus. I'll try that. Question: What about video (I have the same issue)? I'm using an old Canon VIXIA HF10, btw.
Thanks for sharing!
If you are ever looking for another interesting way to take photos, if you have a DSLR and any zoom lenses, then you can zoom in and it completely changes the depth in the photo. I think it makes photos look more realistic because real railroad photographers often use zoom so then can photograph trains off in the distance.
Jack, thanks for this informative video. My question for you is what type of bulbs do you use for your shots especially the close ups?
Pete...I have a pair of 250 watt conventional lights plus another pair of Lowel Tota-Light tungsten flood lights with stands...not cheap. But the type of light doesn't much matter with iPads and iPhones since they are able to produce good photos with a mixture of lighting types. In the video, the photo that I took was lit by florescents in the ceiling and one of the Lowel lights to produce the lighting similar to early morning with shadows.
Jack Burgess
@@yvfan Thanks for the reply.
@@yvfan As a long time user of Tota lights in my job, I have to say I never liked them because they got so hot and I burnt myself a few times. However, there is a small hole with a thumb screw to secure an umbrella - shoot through or reflective - and when used that way, they work well. The object is to _increase_ the physical size of the light source. This diffuses the light source and makes for softer shadows, as long as the umbrella is close to the subject. To far away and it’s just another per point light source.
I was lucky because I had both silver and daylight temperature reflective umbrellas. The daylight ones were rare. So rare, in fact, that I have never seen another set. They were made by Westcott and although they were quite large, they were extremely useful. In your case, I would put it right up behind the iPad. Don’t worry too much about the iPad casting a shadow. The light will spread so much that you probably won’t notice it much. Just lean in, tough the shutter button and step out again.
Thanks for a great tutorial. BTW have you also used the stacking functions in Photoshop? Is it worth buying Helicon seperately?
I have the same question. I really like the idea of using the iPad and I purchased some extras for my camera tripod to replicate your set up. Thank you.
And So forth