Ibis Ripley AF Long Term Review - Truly Capable But Far From Perfect
Vložit
- čas přidán 28. 06. 2024
- After Spending the last 4 months on the Ibis Ripley AF, exploring all kinds of Mountain Bike trails and terrain across BC and Alberta, crashing (a few too many times) and really getting to know the bike, I absolutely have more good than bad to share, but are my complaints serious enough to discourage you from picking one up? You'll just have to watch and find out!
00:00 Intro
00:22 Testing Locations
01:17 Versatility
02:17 Components - The Fork
02:45 Tire Swap
04:06 Shifting
04:29 Brakes
06:00 Dropper
06:29 The Shock
07:48 This Damned Linkage
08:36 The Ride
09:32 Not The Most Plush
10:07 The Good Outweighs the Bad
10:43 But is it Fun?
11:31 Final Thoughts/Outro
13:21 Bonus Clips
Had mine about the same time. Love how versatile it is and just how much fun I have on it. Great review.
Man, thanks so much for all this info! I just ordered mine and it was so nice to hear a real riders review and impressions. I’m in Houston and our local trails are short punchy climbs and descents with tons of tree roots. I’m thinking the back travel might be ok in that. Considering I’m upgrading from a 1998 Gary Fisher Big Sur hardtail, I think I’m going impressed regardless 😂🤣😂
Excellent video buddy 🤘🔥
Just bought one. Stoked.
Would love to find one of these. Seems like it isn’t perfect, but does everything well. Love the vids, cheers!
I purchased two bikes this year. A stumpjumper alloy and finally the Ripley AF. The Ripley has so much less pedal bob and feels much more responsive when pedaling. The stump jumper felt like a M1 tank and the Ripley felt like a Hummer. Selling the Stump jumper ASAP.
Thats awesome that you were able to try both bikes out! I really like the direction the new stumpy went but it's pretty clear to me that specialized doesn't think as highly of their aluminum frame clients. The carbon updates made it a real contender for me but the aluminum frames just didn't get the kinematic updates to support the new intentions of the bikes travel. At least that's how it looked from afar.
Nice bike and nice riding mate!!
Hahaha!! Great vid (& follow-up)...so funny that some of my comments from your first video on this bike (that I posted yesterday...) I should've waited as you've covered some of those same thoughts on this vid! :D LOL
Also, now video reinforced, you & I ride very similarly & dig the same type of trails! Definitely subscribing & will look forward to more videos, bro! Keep up the good work, digging your channel so far! (& glad to hear you've found a "happy place" w/this bike :D)
Loving my Ripley AF so far. Having similar issues with the rear end where I’m using way more rear travel than front and it feels like the bike is kind of leaning back. I think it just needs more experimenting with pressure and tokens before I explore other options for tuning. Great review!
Put a token in back and remove one token from front
Thanks for the great review! My recommendation to deal with the rear-end bottoming out is get a rear shock with a Ripmo attached to it
I did that! worked a treat, though still not what I'm looking for exactly... I'm now leaning towards a 2 bike quiver with a fuel ex and some absolute sled. details TBA
What a great review! Did you solve your rear shock problem?
Hi! Nice review! What about climbing steep sections. Does your front wheel losing touch with ground easily?
Love my Ripley AF. Tried the largest spacer in the shock but didn't like the ramp up. Now running .8 spacer and 25% sag , so far so good. Might try dpx2 down the track.
I'm totally with you on that ramp, the .9 is pretty harsh. I'm super jealous that you can run 25% and not constantly bottom the thing! Glad you found a setting/spacer combo that works for you!
Awesome review! You might have already figured this out, but an SLX shifter is the same mechanism as Deore. You'll want XT for multi release.
The 2022 SLX allows push or pull on the down shift and up to three gears on the upshift.
@@merlinzipp correct, but XT and XTR allow for two gears when pushing the lever for smaller gears. With SLX and Deore, that lever is push and release one gear at a time.
@@merlinzipp as does my 2022 deore shifter
My RAF came with DHF up front and a DHR2 in the rear. I switched over to a Maxxis Forekaster in the rear, and I feel it fits the personality of the bike as a pedal-friendly bike much more.
I'm with you about finding the right front and back tyre balance without feeling wedded to stay with the same brand
We can call ourselves the Schiele appreciation Club
I would love to see what this bike would be like with the DH Super Deluxe from the Norco Optic.
I had the same issue with the dps on the carbon Ripley. Blew through the travel and had to add a bigger spacer than I would have liked. Sold it back in 2020 after about 5 months of being disappointed in the way it used it's travel. But it is the one sale that I regretted almost immediately because other than that everything was near perfect for what I was looking for. Bought a frame again recently with the plan to immediately switch out to a 2022 float X. So much nicer. More supportive and feels like there is a bit more travel than with the dps. It feels like a more capable bike now. Also have a -1 degree headset (matches the Ripley Af HA) and run a 140 fork. Pretty much can ride everything in SoCal. Arguably I prefer the 130 to the 140 though. Will need to spend a little more time on the 140 to be sure.
Sounds like a rad build! I've definitely been thinking about the dpx2, or even a topaz as an upgrade option, I'm a little concerned that the X2 might be a little gushy? How is your pedaling been with the X2? Any noticeable Bob or sluggishness over the dps?
@@casestudymtb Thanks man! It is actually the Fox Float X, which sort of replaces the DPX2 in the most recent model year. It is more like a slimmed down X2, beefier DPX2. It makes the bike feel a little less XC-ish, so it doesn't bolt off the line quite as quickly (don't get me wrong, it is still fast), but it is a better in pretty much everything else--tech climbing, downhill, etc. You still know you only have 120mm of rear travel, but at least I don't blow through it like I did previously. I also have a RS Pike on front, which gives it a bit more stiffness than the 34, but doesn't come at the cost of any more noticeable weight penalty.
Is your float X tuned for the ripley? I’ve seen a lot of people putting DVO topaz on the ripley for more air volume and thus more progressive bottom out. With the aggressive head angle this bike really can do it all.
I would suggest trying more rubber and cushcore in the rear before you upgrade the shock. It’s also worth mentioning that on long sections of downhill a small shock can heat up and thin out the viscosity of the oil. This makes for lower shock performance especially on hot days. Piggyback shocks not only have more air volume but they have more oil volume to disperse the heat better. You could just take more breaks when your shock gets hot.
@@brassmnky33 no, the float x I have is just the standard retail tune, which usually work well for me at 185-190lbs. I did have a tuned dps on my previous frame from Fluid Focus (not a fan of ibis's tune). It made it feel softer off the top and helped a bit with bottom out, but it did lose it's poppy nature a bit. No experience with dvo. I have also used cushcore pro and xc. It was ok, but the weight was noticeable after more than 45 mins of climbing. I took them out. Definitely some positives, but it felt a little sluggish to me on the climbs.
Thanks for the video. I’m between this and a Norco Fluid FS A1. The Norco is slightly burlier but the geometry and weight are nearly identical. I think the Ibis has more/better anti-squat for climbs. The big difference is the build. You get much better components from Norco at the same price. Specifically, I’m a big dude and would prefer 4-pot brakes and bigger rotors.
From a frame stand point I'm not sure I would say that the ripley AF is less burly than the new fluid. components maybe, I'm not familiar with the norco spec, but the ripley af frame is plenty stiff.
I will say that if you're a bigger guy I'd look for a fox 36 up front or a lyric for the increased stiffness, at 180-190 lbs I regularly notice how flexy the 34 is (especially if you like trials-y moves or slow tech). However take that with a grain of salt, the 34 shouldn't necessarily be a deal breaker, especially if you have no basis for comparison.
In my case I ride a 38 on my ripmo which definitely draws your attention to the flex in the 34 when switching between the bikes but without that constant comparison it's likely less of a big deal.
@@casestudymtb I’ve noticed flexing from Fox 34s in the past so that’s a solid suggestion. Thanks!
From my experience pinned pads doesn't really do that much to prevent overheating( slx 4 pot). I wouldn't bother buying them for 2 times as much as usual pads. Biggger rotors with better heat dispersion do work.
I actually was reading, after making the video, that a bunch of ews racers cut the fins off to stop rattling on their xt or xtr pads so, ya, right on the money, can't make that big a difference.
@ Case Study. What size frame and what is your weight? My understanding is that the tune is different btw. the Med and Large. Med. being a lighter or "traction" tune.
It's a large frame, as for my weight? Oh, I'LL never tell... that's why I offer sag in mm. I run 9-10 mill of sag depending on terrain.
Yo, put dumonde tech freehub oil on the seal for your dropper, I promise it will never stick and be smooth as butter!
Have you figured something out to prevent your rock crusher symptom in the rear suspension? I would try zip tying a large piece of inner tube rubber from the seat tube to the upper triangle of the rear suspension. Maybe even an inch around the upper stays.
I just tossed a cheap front wheel mud fender on the chain stay, not a perfect solution but it mounted pretty easily and keeps most debris from getting in there.
ProGuard Rear Mudguard
Look into the mara shock. Would sort your issue and has helped folks on aggressive short travel bikes with bottom out
Thanks! If I still owned the bike I might consider it. Haha
Nice video! Wondering what size you have and how tall you are? I'm 5' 9.5" and 160lbs and ibis recommends large with shorter stem. I grew up on bmx and dirtbikes and have no clue if I should go large or size down to medium. Riding midwest (ohio, west virginia, etc).
Sorry I missed this question, If it's still relevant, I'm 5'11 and riding the large with the stock stem. I might be inclined to go with a medium in your case, but it depends on the kind of descending you're doing, if it's steep and fast, size up to the large, if you're riding more XC stuff or jibbing around, I'd likely recommend the medium, though obviously, if you can get a demo on each size that would be the best way to determine fit.
This looks like a bike for me, I mostly do cross country, not really into jumping or going superfast downhill, I enjoy going slow and looking at the scenery, for me its more of a hiking tool to go on farther hikes.
I'm personally really looking forward to using it for bikepacking, it fits the bill nicely and has enough geo and suspension to help you out of (or in to) a good bit of trouble.
This is a great bike
I appreciate the AF option to carbon, but 8 lbs. +/- is heavy for a short travel bike. As heavy as it is, I still prefer the AF vs the headaches and hassles that come with carbon frames. I just wish Ibis (and all the bike manufacture's) had AF options that were 6 lbs +/-. Even 7 lbs would be better..
How did the 2.3 tire form on the wide 35mm rims? Mine came with Assegai tires which I took off before it left the shop.
No issue at all, I'm sure it's probably not ideal but performance and wear wise everything has been tip top.
@@casestudymtb cool, I am currently running 2.6's but just ordered 2.35's. These rims are WIDE. The AF is probably the best bang for your buck in this price range. Incredible ride attributes in so many different areas! Great review BTW. I am going to try messing with the air pressure in mine, I am running 28-29% sag in the rear. I do put it in in pro-pedal mode a lot of the time on the climbs however.
Have you looked at Ripmo AF
I noticed on my 2023 Ripley AF there is a rock guard on lower linkage.
Sweet! In defense of Ibis, they do have kits that they'll mail out to you for free on older models, which i definitely took advantage of after I learned about it, but I have a much larger issue with the upper linkage for rock damage, which I've yet to find a durable, long lasting solution for.
a year later but try going into opposite direction with the spacers, add PSI and back off the rebound. Other wise ibis sugge sts sending the shock to fox and having the "lite" tune removed.
My Frame size is large, to the best of my knowledge this size runs a different tune, but regardless, last season I ran a .8 spacer and dropped the PSI and just accepted that it was going to bottom all the time. As much as I find bottom a lot, the bottom outs aren't harsh so I've just accepted that I'll need to put more into shock maintenance to get the most out of the rear end.
I also bought a Ripmo last year so I no longer need the Ripley to cover the bigger mountain terrain it struggles in any more. It's pure trail/XC duty and working pretty great!
@@casestudymtb Sending the shock in to have the traction tune removed..kind of a PITA
My friend upgraded to a DVO air shock and fork because he was bottoming out his shock. He has no issues now, He also went SRAM GX AXS and cushcore front and back.
Interesting, I'm running a dvo topaz 3 on the ripmo af I just picked up and I had the same problem with bottom outs there as well, I think its more a symptom of the dw link and the very light/open tune ibis uses. Likely just buying an aftermarket shock meant it had a more traditional tune on it which would help. In my case, even with dvo on my ripmo I'm still going to be adding ALOT of volume reducers... but In my case on the ripley, I did find a pretty good balance with the .8 volume reducer and about 9 or 10 mill of sag. Still using all the travel but its a pretty soft bottom out
@@casestudymtb You could also look into Cascade links made for both the Ripley and Ripmo. They add progression over the standard links.
@@Bittersfamily0424 I don't believe the cascade ripmo link works on the ripley af but for my ripmo I've certainly been considering it!
@@Bittersfamily0424sadly cascade links for Ripmo don’t fit the Ripley
Maybe buy a Ripmo next time it climbs well and more plush in the rearend.
Looks like they upgraded the front fork to 130mm of travel for the latest model. Do you think that’s sufficient for your riding style or do you think that 140mm is it?
As far as I know The Ripley has always spec'd a 130 fork, mine included. I did upgrade my air cartridge to 140mm travel and I'm glad I did.
In my long term review I talk about how, more than anything, I liked that the taller fork meant reduced pedal strikes when climbing (which was definitely an issue for me at 130mm) due to the increase in bottom bracket height.
I traveled to Squamish and rode for about a week on the 130mm fork and a week at 140mm, it's not a huge difference descending but the extra travel and the slightly slacker front end at 140 does make the bike more capable. It's not night and day, but I think the benefits of running 140 far outweigh the cons (honestly I'm not sure there are any cons), even for me where my home trails are predominantly XC trails.
bike camping is exactly what I need.
I was wondering your height and inseam? I am right on the border of L or XL. 6'1" 32/33 inseam
Not sure the exact inseam but I'm 5'11 and I wear a 31 pant, not a super precise measurement but gives you an idea. Stand over is pretty generous on the large with a big dropper.
Hey I would probaly install a shock with a piggy back
5 psi more air in the shock 2psi less in the tire. It will have same small bump compliance and it will no longer bottom out.....and you will smash your PRs.
dude, this video was from like 3 years ago, I don't even own that bike any more hahaha.
I tried such a massive range of shock pressures and I run my tires as soft as I can without feeling vagueness brought on from tire squirm. The bike wasn't progressive enough for me. That suggestion might work for your weight and riding style, but not for me. Great bike though, just not the right fit for me. on wards and up wards
..maybe you have your suspension set up wrong. I would try sp suspension in Phoenix
What about trying a RIPMO AF? Really interested in your experience with one if u can get it.
Ty.
Thanks Ty, it's definitely on my list, I'm hoping to borrow a carbon Ripmo for an afternoon before the end of the season from a friend for a brief test. That said, if i can get my hands on one I'll be limited to riding it on the flatter trails of my city, trails where I'm sure the edge will go to the ripley, but at the very least I should get an appreciation for how it handles and rides compared to the Ripley.
@@casestudymtb Thanks man.
Reason for is i'm looking for new bike but i want only one bike .Live in the flat area but i do go on mountain sometime,so for me is a ''batle''between RIPLEY and RIPMO.
@@tubemaster1205 Im coming from a 120mm travel polygon d7 and just upgraded to a Ripmo AF. Depending how serious your mountain riding is would sway the difference. 120mm bikes are insanely capable if setup right. That being said, my Ripmo AF climbs and descends better than the shorter travel bike but thats mainly due to the platform difference. I havent personally tried a ripley but considering its a similar platform you cant go wrong with either bike. If you're more of an aggressive rider who attacks the downhill fast, go ripmo. If you enjoy more flow trails and a smaller playful bike go Ripley.
@@tubemaster1205 The geo between the ripley af and ripmo is so similar and as a result so is the feel on the bike (seated pedaling position is identical, weight distribution when standing is further off the back to stay centered on both etc...). The ripley is more sporty but has some rear end challenges, the ripmo is less sporty but more progressive. Both are good options, they're just different sides of a coin.
If you like to pedal hard and want the reward for it locally, then just want to pick lines and chill on techy descents in the mountains, go with the ripley. If you want enjoy a chill ride locally but then hammer descents in the mountains, get the ripmo. Neither one is perfect but in the af world the prices alone can justify the purchase of either frame.
Is that brake squeaking on video on 1:32? :D
What are the bushings like?
Completely transparent. There is zero chance that I could tell you they used bushings instead of bearings. As far as service goes they get an insane warranty so I wouldn't let it impact your decision one way or the other.
I been running ice rotors with two pot XT breaks for some time which work nicely on my XC sstup. Rotor size also makes a difference. Not sure what the Ripley comes with but 180mm works well up front. Ripley AF looks like a great light travel trial bike. Nice review!
Why do you need to run Maxxis Tires? So many more faster rolling and grippy designs out there for less money. 2.3 must bounce around like a pinball.
The bike does bounce around, but it's not the 2.3, it's me riding it on stuff it's not intended for and the 34 being rather flexy haha. I've been riding it with a 2.5 up front this season and it's ability to hold a line hasn't been helped at all. Improvements from the 2.5 are to braking and cornering traction.
Each of my bikes have mismatched tires, Lol.
Gotta spread that tire money around! By which I mean, which of these is the least worn? You're going in champ!