Astrophotography with a Short Tube 80 ST80 Achromatic Telescope
Vložit
- čas přidán 22. 07. 2024
- There are many routes into Astrophotography (AP). In this video I look at one option using a low cost optical tube that is readily available new or used. Is an 80mm f/5 achromat like the Short Tube or ST80 good enough to build your AP skills? Let's see.
- Věda a technologie
Great review, well reasoned, and very informative. Just about anyone can do astrophotography with the most expensive, technically advanced equipment, but its even more inspiring to see it done at a low cost. Nice work.
Thanks a lot for the live video view on this baby! Finally I can assess it suitability.
I love this scope and can be used as a decent guide scope too!! Keep up the good work Graham!! Keep it Budget Keep it real!! Clear skies mate!!
love your channel too Martin
Thanks @@natem7440
I find myself going back and re-watching many of your videos. You are very practical, budget-minded and provide clear & concise information. Great work!
Thanks!
Honestly these pics are super clean for an achromatic telescope.
kevin Thanks Kevin, I was surprised what it could produce!
Hello from Spain. Thank you for your videos.
I have the same set up except the mount. It's the stock one you get with it but for now it's good enough. I'm just learning how to use the DSLR nikon d3100. This as helped that I'm on the right road so thank you
paul roberts I’m glad it was helpful. Clear skies to you, Graham
You can also buy ‘T’ thread extension tube, usually as a set. This would thread between the T mount thread and T mount adapter. Fewer bits to achieve the same extension of the focus to infinity.
all good advice - I use one a lot - an aps-c Sony nex 5n and Pentax Ks-1 and 2 give roughly 2.5 x 2 degree fields of view - an affordable telescope to start to learn the craft.
Thanks for a very informative video, it will be of great help as I have a Meade ST80 (Adventure Scope). Planning to get a DSLR soonish. Again thanks and clear skies, greetings from Catalunya.
I just got that. Did you struggle with the mount at all?
@@peaceandlove395 I just bought a Canon 800D and still need a mount for it, so I can´t say yet.
excellent video and good advice. So good to see a review of a telescope that a beginner like me should be thinking about. A similar video on mounts and a beginner reflector would be great too . thanks
Thanks John, from the comments you can see that a Skywatcher 130PS and StarQuest 130P get a couple of votes! Maybe another video...
Very nice video! Good information presentation! I got BK1025, seems like it is more then worth trying to capture deeps : )
Love the videos Graham. Well thought out & narrated. I have a Meade ETX80 (alt - az) mount & have managed some incredible shots using a Zwo asi 120 camera. It can be done!
Thanks Scott. I really like the idea of finding setups that are relatively cheap and yet good enough to get results. The ASI 120 is also on my list of bargain pieces of kit! Clear skies to you. Graham
Jenham's Astro Ive found there’s something uniquely fun & endearing about budget equipment, be it telescopes or cars. Getting the most out of something that has no right to perform the task!
Great review! I have an old, but very capable homemade 6" newtonian reflector on a really bulky base that while getting great views of the moon, Jupiter and Saturn, is a bit of a beast to set up and move around so I've been research what small scope to get to compliment it and learn on. My short list was down to the Orion ST 80 and (3) 90mm mak scopes: the Celestion C90, Orion StarMax 90 and the Sky-Watcher Skymax 90. This video definitely helped me decide on the Orion ST 80 as my next scope over the maks. Thank you.
I hope you like the simplicity and value of the ST80. Certainly more portable than your Newtonian and not a huge outlay. I love the C90 and small Maks as well, but they do different things well vs the ST80. I don't see a wrong choice amongst them. Clear skies.
@@JenhamsAstro Thanks! I think it's the best scope for my situation and it's tried and tested track record make it a great option. Cheers!
Interesting video
Thanks for the tip on M42 thread extension. In general bright objects end up with chromatic abberations, plus short f aggreviate the problem. Wonder if one can design a aperture control wheel at front of 80mm or somehere in between to reduce color dispersion to some extent.
Your pictures of DSOs are certainly nice for using this scope for deep sky astro imaging.
Er....reducing aperture will not change colour aberration. That is determined by design. Nor coma or astigmatism. Only spherical abberation.
Thanks a lot for this video. I've taken some good images with the 55-250 mm lens that comes with canon Eos 3000D. However with my iOptron SmartEQ Pro, it's a very very light setup. So I'm planning to get one of these 80/400 achromat refractor.
I have a 127/900 reflector scope as well but if I'm honest it's only good for planetary images.
This is great, thank you for giving me an idea!
My first scope is the venerable 90 mm Maksutov (by SkyWatcher, identical to the C90 otherwise) - the magnification on it is fantastic and the planetary views and pictures come out nice... but as I've been accessorizing it, I've been really starting to get more and more of an itch for trying my hand at DSOs, and that's just tough to do with an f/14 Mak...
Well, after watching this and checking prices, it's just dawned on me that the cost of a complete Short 80 kit is about the same as what I'd spent ordering my one "good" eyepiece for planetary viewing on the Maksutov - and every accessory I already have can, in theory, go on to this one just the same (the version I'm looking at is for 1.25" pieces).
I never really looked at this kind of little refractor seriously, and was thinking that maybe in a year or two, I'll just save up for an apochromat or just a nice wider-aperture reflector for DSOs, and in the meantime focus on getting a few more accessories for my Mak. But this video just made me realize that in fact, maybe what I really want is TWO affordable scopes instead of one :)
The more I think about it, the more logical it seems - a 400 mm f/5 scope fits very neatly between my 1250 mm f/14 on one side, and my 200 mm f/4 photo lens on the other. It should give me just enough reach to dip my toes into more of the DSOs now rather than later - without even factoring in anything planetary, because I've already got the 90 mm Mak for that. And at least on paper, the Short 80 sounds like it's fast enough to outperform the other pieces in my kit for a certain range of terrestrial telephoto/spotting work, too.
At this kind of cost, I'm willing to take a chance on it!
Thanks again for this great suggestion. This might actually be a great companion scope for beginners like me to the C90-style scope. It's a good way to get a bit of a feel for both worlds - wide-field and planetary - on a budget!
Good luck with your ST80. For the money it's a good place to grab some first DSOs. An apo can always come later! Clear skies, Graham.
Nice upload for beginners 👌 there are a wide range of first telescopes for astrophotography! I normally encourage first timers to attend star parties, uni lectures, visit their local astronomy store and to watch advanced amateur astronomers online to get a feel for what they may purchase as a first telescope ☺🔭
Yes that's all good advise that I should have mentioned too.
Isn't that like sending a kid who wants to race his go cart to the indy 500 to get ideas and tips?
Excellent vid! I actually had an order page open to buy this exact scope & was pondering it, you convinced me to buy it! Thanks my friend!
Thanks, it’s a good, fun little scope. I hope you enjoy it.
Great review and video. However I saw you were using a SynScan GOTO mount. If I got this scope, and with some practice, with my EQ-2 RA Clock Drive (Not Economy drive) mount what could I expect?
Thanks. There is no substitute for having an over-sized mount vs the scope, when you want to do AP. I'm sure you mount and drive will be OK for visual but you'd have to experiment to see how well it tracks if you try photography, which is unforgiving of any error. You may find that you get star trailing with fairly short exposures, plus the polar alignment will need to be accurate. Trial and error really.
Thanks Jenham. I'm a little surprised that you would recommend an ST80 over a small reflector for deep sky imaging. As much as refractors are by far my favourite type of telescope, I must concede that something like a Skywatcher 130pds (£169 brand new) would show much tighter stars without all the CA causing the stars to be blobby as you can't focus all the light (plus a 130pds would have a dual speed focuser for fine focusing). Collimation is pretty stable on a typical f/5 Newt so I would be surprised if that's the reason? I'm sorry but if you can't stretch to £269 for a Skywatcher ED72, then just opt for a cheap Newt IMO.
I fully agree that a 130 scope can give great results, better in some ways perhaps. I chose a refractor because it is harder to break one and it doesn't need ANY collimation, as I was thinking of the overall simplicity of the setup. I've been happy with the results from my Heritage 130P, although it's focuser doesn't lend itself to a DSLR. A 130pds and ST80 are both good choices for little money.
Thanks buddy, I really liked the explanation on how to attach the DSLR.
I own a SVBoney SV502, 70mm 420mm focal length, to watch some things with the family.
I own an old Canon D400 which I might use for this (though I also still have the 75-200mm lens, which I want to try).
But you reckon if I use a 2x barlow with a 0.5 reducer, one can get rid of the aberration, as sort of a flattener?
It's worth a try if you have the barlow and reducer but I'm not sure if it will flatten the field effectively or not. I use a WO flattener with my GT81 but that's designed for the job. Please let me know if you try it.
Yes I found it very helpful.
Hi. I am new to this hobby. And your chanel has encouraged me a lot about stargazing to the point that I am considering buying my First telescope for myself and my 2 sons aged 8 and 6. Where I live in Dhaka, Bangladesh telescopes are hard to come by and pretty expensive because of shipping and duty. Most of them are high/intermediate ones and very pricy or toys. Very rarely we come across good beginner telescopes. After much searching I found 2. If you or anyone here could give me advice it'll super helpful. My 2 options are Celestron Starsense 114LT and another is 70×700 mm refractor. I gather from my limited knowledge is the 114LT is better but here it is about $120 more than the 70×700mm Refractor which is coming in about $220 as it is. I'm not sure if 114LT at $340 will be worth for me as a beginner or not. Or is it better to go for the simpler $220 70×700mm refractor. Any advice will be greatly appreciated.
Just picked up one of these, going to try some EAA with it.
Definitely worth a try. I’ve put my planetary camera onto my WO scope and was surprised how well it worked using Sharpcap, albeit limited by the sensor’s FOV.
Wow I would be happy with a shot of M81 and M82 like that. Far better that what I have seen in 100mm binoculars or an 8 inch SCT. It is really nice with large binos, but a pic through an 80ST is an amazing souvenir.
Thanks Nate, I was surprised what the little scope could do.
@@JenhamsAstro Hi Graham, I still keep coming back this video for inspiration. I suppose you did a lot of processing for the final result? I guess the regular Deep sky Stacker and Photshop or GIMP?
I just too my first Deep space shot ( M42 whooohoo!) with my 127 Mak. It turned out not too bad. But I quickly learned that processing is 50% of the work. So my results are still pending on my Image Software skills. Thanks for your channel. I like the way you explain things. And i think the results you show on a budget are motivating. keep up the great vids!
@@natem7440 Thanks Nate. I used Deep Sky Stacker and then Paint Shop Pro, which is an alternative to Photoshop that offers many (but not all) of the same features. You are right about the processing element, and to be honest I'm not an expert in that part - I just keep tweaking until it looks good to my eye. Keep going with the 127 - i plan another video on Maks as they are certainly not the easiest way to image DSOs, compared to using a "fast" scope like an ST80. Clear skies, Graham.
Hi Graham as usual very clear presentation thanks.
Just one question is the camera modded ( is that a word?) for astro? Looking to keep the costs down, in full skinflint mode at the moment!
HI Ian, yes it is (not sure on the spelling question either!). It helps a lot with emission nebulae ("red stuff" to me) but isn't essential on other objects or to get started.
Thanks for the informative video. Could you suggest a budget scope that has no fringing and better for deep space. Thanks. Would a reflector be better?
If you want to do visual astro a 6” or 8” dobsonian is a good option with no false colour. For astrophotography (or visual to some extent) something like an 80mm ED refractor like those from Skywatcher/Orion are good value.
Hi!, I have a OTA 80mm telescope and I need a mount ring for it, do you know where I can buy one? Nothing fancy, but with world wide shipping?
Hello, Skywatcher/Orion make a range of affordable tube rings for various OTA sizes.
Hi mate I have a C90 and very pleased with it moon, planets etc. Do you think a focal refucer (0.5) would work with it to achieve something similar (then be at f7).
Hi, I have read of other Mak users getting decent results with reducers but I haven't gone done this road as I've got a small apo that works around f/6 anyway. The cost of a new reducer may also come close to the scope price itself? I suggest you dig into the forums as I can't give you a first-hand view.
I mounted a Meade Infinity 80 to a CG5 mount. It's so nice to have a mount capable of 30lbs carrying a scope that's about 3lbs.
Hi David, absolutely, great when the only issue is finding a small enough counterweight! Clear skies, Graham
@@JenhamsAstro The counter weight rod seems sufficient.
My St80 is on a cg5 also but the rod isnt enough. For now i just taped a box of sand to acheive balance though 😂
This is by far the most concise video on the subject I've found, so cheers for that! I'm taking my 80mm out for the first time to take some AP and curious if you had any tips not mentioned in the video? It's a Celestron Powerseeker 80AZS with Canon Rebel T3, motorized EQ mount and I also have an intervalometer.
I can’t remember if I mentioned it or not but focus is key so try to use live view, ideally by connecting your camera via usb to a laptop. I use APT to view the camera’s output during focusing but there are other apps as well. Start with ISO 1600 and keep exposures to a few seconds as tracking requires good polar alignment. Have fun!
@@JenhamsAstrothanks! It would be awesome to get a more detailed tutorial some day on how you got that shot of M81 at the end of the video :)
Thanks a lot for the highly informative video. I don’t intend taking up astrophotography as I spend all my day in front of a PC. How good is this or the ST120 for visual DSO astronomy? Is the field of view good enough? Or will I be better off investing in a 6” or 8” dob?
I presently have a 90/1250mm Mak-Cass that doesn’t lend itself well for anything except Lunar views and I see myself using my binoculars more often for clusters.
Thanks in advance !
Hello, if portability is not an issue then a 8” Dob will be the way to go for visual astro. The ST scopes are fun, cheap and light and can turn their hand to astro photography, at a push. For visual the aperture of the Dob will show a lot more.
@@JenhamsAstro Many thanks! I kept coming back to this video without realising I had asked a question and more importantly that tou had kindly responded. Apologies.
In the meantime, I’ve acquired an 8” dob and have placed an order for the ST80 for the odd trip or a quick session of wide-field scanning. The dob is now giving me the immersive experience I hoped they would.
Many thanks for your kind advice and wish you clear skies!
I'm not interested in AP as such, but have an ST80 that I am configuring for EAA with live stacking, so hopefully it will work ok!
100% worth a go. I’m experimenting with EAA and would be interested to hear how you get on with the ST80.
The images look great, especially taking into consideration it's so cheap!
If given the option, would you go for this telescope or for a telephoto lens (something like an old M42 300mm, about same price second hand)?
Hello, it’s a good question. The ST80 is a useful lightweight scope to have in your Astro kit but if you have good “old lens” knowledge I think that a lens is a good option, as the extension tube/ adapter arrangement wasn’t ideal with the scope and brought a few compromises which you might avoid with a lens (even though an M42 lens probably needs an adapter for a modern camera. V- easily sourced). As with all AP, the mount stability is a key factor as well.
Thanks for an informative video as I'm a new telescope owner. When I add my T-Adapter lens with camera in MANUAL I get 'Lens not attached' message - any idea what's going on? I'm using a Nikon D3500.
Hi Nigel, i don't know. I've looked online and everyone says the fix is to use manual mode which you have already done. As a Canon user i can't help much but i guess there might be a setting somewhere in your camera's menu to sort it? Sorry not to be more help. Graham
@Nigel Rowe A bit late to this post I know, and I'll guess you've worked it out. That said, you have to tell the camera to effectively turn off the auto sensor that determines focal length, when a new lens is inserted. The focal length is something you then have to set manually when a new lens is inserted. This is how you use an old lens in a modern camera. Where that setting is and what you need to set it to is unique to your camera no doubt. That should, I believe, fix the problem.
Currently playing around with the ST80 stopped down to ~F10. It is (obvs) quite slow, but the CA is much better controlled. I think I'll be able to get good pictures with ~4" subs.
f10 and 4 second subs? Your not going to see much.
Have you had any issues with the rack & pinion deteriorating? I bought a relatively cheap scope and that has been completely shredded on it after about 50 hours of use with a camera attached.
Not with the ST80 but definitely with other scopes in the past, where teeth on a plastic rack are mangled.
Hey, all I have got is a GTo Eq mount (skywatecher GTi) and a full frame Mirrorless camera (Sony A7C), and a stable tripod. Unfortunately I have no autoguiding camera and scope as of now. I aim to shoot some DSOs like M81, M51, rosette nebula etc. Do you think i will manage with this scope? ( I live in Bortle 5-6 skies)
Hello, you don’t need to auto guide as long as you can track on an Equatorial. I think you can set long exposures with that camera, and if so an experiment would be worthwhile. Of course you need yo point to the target with the camera attached to the mount (can you attach it - you may need an adapter to connect to a dovetail bar). And you need to make sure that the lens is well focussed - again this sounds obvious but many lenses aren’t at infinity when exactly set at that focus position. So check focus when pointing to a bright target at high ISO, adjust til it’s right and then carefully move up the target without touching the lens.
My first scope was a 5" Newtonian 20 yrs ago. Got into it again and purchased a Orion Short Tube 80 ($80), an Explore Scientific Nano EQ3 Mount ($140) and a Canon T6 (used $125)... I'm learning and I'm so excited to see what can be done. Thanks so much!
Is there a way to measure how long the extension tube needs to be? I bought a t-ring with extension that was too long with anD without the diagonal...i used my Barlow and it focused so now I'm looking for an extension that is equal to the Barlow. If the focal length is 400mm can I use that number to figure out what length extension I need? I know what I need now but in the futures could I have measured from the lens to the end of the focusor then whatever is left make that my extension length?
I’m glad to hear you are getting back into Astro. It seems over the years there are various ST80s, all 400 f/5 I think but with slightly differing tube lengths. So some users comment that they don’t need any extension at all. Here is a link www.cloudynights.com/topic/573993-extension-tube-length/ I’d suggest following the advise in the last comment ie during the day, pointing the scope at a distant object, pull the camera away from the end of the tube until you can get a focus. My tube is 2” if that helps.
@@JenhamsAstro thank you!!! Also side note…my SVBONY 3x Barlow has a removable lens so I can use it as an extension. Love your channel and thanks again
When trying to capture Venus with a short tube 80mm, might aperture reduction (by putting dust cover on tube and removing inside plug) help to reduce achromatic aberration?
I haven’t tried this, my concern would be the loss of resolution. Worth a try.
@@JenhamsAstro Bought a GSkyer short tube 80mm achromatic. Tried aperture reduction. Worked nicely. It converts the scope form an 80mm f5 to a 40mm f10 and the center of the objective lens is the portion least subject to achromatic aberration. Thus, Venus looks nice.
As for loss of resolution, if looking at very bright objects, such as Venus, the Moon or Jupiter, a smaller aperture will still offer plenty of light.
Give it a try.
Graham I have the mak90, how would it compare to this st80 for dipping my toe in?
Hi the field of view is the big difference. The ST80 has a wide field compared to your Mak, so location of objects is easier. If you are looking at AP then you'll need a tracking mount. If you have one already then small apo scopes in the 72-80mm range will grow with your knowledge, but the front end cost will be higher than the ST80 - which I'd describe as cheap, light, optically OK (not perfect) but good value.
@@JenhamsAstro I do have a tracking mount. Im a Mac user and it seems the software available for astrophotography is geared towards Microsoft. : ( I’ll have to dig around for more info. Thanks for the reply!
What refracting telescope you would recommend for just viewing planets?
You need focal length. If it has to be a refractor then aim for 1000mm+ so for example a classic 80mm f/15 will give great views, a modern ED100 f/9 also. But really the same result is more easily obtained at less cost with a Maksutov of 127mm aperture.
What would you suggest buying for 1st time novice beginner ?
Orion ST80 or Celestron Skymaster 25x100 ??
Hi, 25x100 binos will need a tripod to use, so you'd need to factor that into the cost. Of the 2 the ST80 will be lighter and easier to use on a photo tripod. To answer the question properly I'd need to understand your budget and if you need to transport the scope to find dark skies or not, as portability can be a big factor in scope choice.
hi i love your instructional videos and reviews and always trust your opinion, what do you think of the Sky-Watcher StarQuest-102R f/4.9 Achromatic Refractor Telescope for basic astrophotography and on the tracked mount option you can get for it, clear skies
Thanks. In my video I’ve shown what you can do with an achromat, but I had one already as a guidescope. Which mount exactly are you thinking of, and for what total price including the scope?
@@JenhamsAstro I'm looking at purchasing the skywatcher az gti WiFi mount and tripod, I do have a skymax 127 mak already and selling my sw explorer 150p eq3-2 with ra motor to find the purchase. Maybe later in the year see if any cheap refractors are about. I can also use my canon 450d dslr on this az gti mount via a few accessories.
Lee hore OK, I think you can adapt that mount to run it equatorial mode at a later stage, which is needed for all AP except planetary. I’d say the 102 at that focal ratio will be an intro scope but the false colour will hinder you longer term. Most “small”refractor AP these days uses “ED” scopes of some sort, e.g. an SW 80ED Pro. That will cost more (used examples come up) but will not give you any false colour whilst retaining the short tube/ low bulk benefits.
@@JenhamsAstro hi Graham, thank you for your reply, I have now got the az gti mount and tripod but kit used it in anger because of the pesky clouds, thinking I may get a cheap 114 reflector of done sort to go on the mount at a later date as it'll be faster than my skymax 127 and be better with AP
@@astronebulee578 Hi Lee, yes maybe pick up a cheap OTA, perhaps a used one? Personally I'd get 130mm as a minimum. Clouded out here too! Graham
Please forgive the noob question, but
What's the difference between using a scope like this and using a 400mm lens on my DSLR? Given that they seem to have similar focal lengths and apatures.
Many thanks
Just received a Star Adventurer pro pack and am waiting for a clear night!!
Hello, it's a good question. The ST80 is a "cheap" achromat, so is likely to show more false colour around brighter objects than a good quality camera lens. But, again dependent on the lens, you may have to stop it down to get round stars that are free from artifacts, so it becomes slower. So I'd say if you lens is high quality it will outperform the ST80, but if it's not then the ST80 may pull ahead. Good luck with the star adventurer, and let me know how you get on. At 400mm you may need short exposures at higher ISO, or very good polar alignment. Graham
@@JenhamsAstro thanks for getting back to me.
I hear ya on the good polar alignment. I live in Australia, so while we in the Southern Hemisphere have some great sight to potentially see (Andromeda not withstanding), we also don't have a pole star either, making polar alignment quite difficult.
I'm looking into ways I can more accurately attain a good alignment. If I can take some good images of our southern sights, maybe the wife will let me spend some more money on my new hobby😁
Is it possibile to do that but with the stand that is comes with
Nvm
Hello. You nebulae pictures were all taken without tracking?
Hello. The mount was driven using an RA drive. No guiding was used though, just tracking.
The Q for me is,I could just about afford to buy an apro,but would I be better,as a beginner,starting with one of these,or should I push the budget and not waste any money???
If you can afford the apo then I would take that route. Of course you will need to factor the camera and mount cost into either apo or achro option.
My DSLR reaches focus without an extension tube. Just started imaging with my st80 and get pretty great results.
Excellent. Yes it seems some of these scopes need an extension and others don’t.
@@JenhamsAstro fwiw mine is a newer ST-80 from Orion. It provides much better images than and early model I had also from orion. They are hit and miss apparently.
@@electronictreasure4191 OK, good to know thanks. It wouldn’t be the first scope to have variable quality over its production run.
i just checked out your video, i also have an astro channel. I too think its a great scope and mount for the price point and a 80mm f/5 acro has a spot for daytime and night time viewing as long its not for serious planetary viewing. cheers good video.
Hi Joe, thanks. It surprised me that the ST80 could do much more than be a guide-scope. You are 100% right about the planets though -> best avoided! Clear skies.
Hi Joe, like your channel too. I'm also in GTA area. Your comments are very informative. I just bought the celestron 9x50 and it's terrible for contrast! I can't target anything at mag 5 but a 50mm bino shows targets easily.
I need an 80mm. Any recommendations? Happen to have any old 80mm in your collection? ahem ahem.
@@natem7440 hi nate wow nice to see your close by right now i dont have an old 80mmST but ill keep an eye out thx i have used a 80mmf5 acro as a big finder on a bigger scope it can work and you can put any ep in it to also pump up the power so i think it can be useful if you live in a heavy LP zone joe
@@JoeJaguar thanks Joe. I just put an ad on astrobuysell. See if someone has something.
@@JoeJaguar I see some of your gear for sale too. But I'm not ready for the big triplets yet. 😉
How about using the term reasonably priced instead of cheap.
Nice video, but I must say that wiht a 80/400 you don't need an extension tube to achieve focus. The focuser's travel distance is enough to achieve focus with the camera directly attached to the telescope. Source: myself. I have the ST80 (Meade branded) an a stock Canon T7 and works without issues, other than the expected chromatic aberration.
Héctor Fernández Thanks Hector, there seems to be some variability amongst ST80s then. Mine won’t focus. I’m glad yours does - much simpler that way! Clear skies.
Do you put the Barlow lens and lens inside the extension tube?
Also thanks for the video. Really useful review. I’ve just ordered mine today. I have a Nikon 5600 dslr
Yasir Bandey For visual use you would normally use scope diagonal barlow eyepiece. But to connect a camera and a barlow you’d need a barlow which has a t-ring fitting on one end. In this case you would use extension tube barlow camera.
Good review and presentation!! Thanks. You can eliminate the chromatic aberration from an achromatic refractor by adding a Baader 495nm Longpass Yellow color filter. It eliminates all of the fringe colors and allows you to step up the magnification on an 80mm up to 200x if you want to really push the performance of these great little scopes. A light yellow #8 filter will reduce chromatic aberration by 50 to 60% as well. If you are imaging, you can remove the yellow cast from the photo in post processing with most image processing software apps. Clear skies!!
You can also use the Baader Semi APO filter. It gets rid of the vast majority of violet fringing, without adding a colour cast to the image. It also works well as a light pollution filter. It's basically two filters in one.
@@AndyinMokum are they expensive filters,wouldn't you just be better buying apo telescope?
@@alanrobinson2229 Sure, if you can afford to buy an apo, then that’s the best option. However, if you’ve already a good quality air spaced short achromat, the Baader semi apo is well worth consideration. Will it turn your achromat into an apo? The simple answer is no. It will make your achromat a very acceptable deep sky photographic telescope though. All but the very brightest stars, will have next to no fringing.
Here in The Netherlands the 1.25” filter is selling for around €85. The 2” is going for around €150, Adding this cost to the price of a decent achromat, is still way below the price of a good apo. You’ve got to remember that with the Baader semi apo, you’re getting three filter for the price of one: a fringe killer, an anti light pollution filter and a Moon glow filter. The Baader semi apo filter is a game changer for achromat owners.
@@AndyinMokum thanks for explaining the benefits of this filter,a serious consideration.
When I made the comment,I was thinking of a used Apo for £220,works out cheaper than a filter and cheap achro?
@@alanrobinson2229 It's my pleasure. There's no reason from stopping you using the Baader semi apo filter on an APO scope. It's really useful with ED doublets. It'll help clean up any residual chromatic aberrations. 🔭😀
Where can I find mounting rings
First Light Optics have a selection. The cheapest ones are Skywatcher.
I have a 76/700 Newtonian. Do you think it's usable?
I think it's too small for astrophotography. For a reflector something with a 130mm mirror is a minimum aperture, with a lower/faster focal ratio closer to f/5.
@@JenhamsAstro you used a 90 mm mak and it worked out fine. Whats the difference between a 90 mm Mak and Newtonian?
@@void0094 I'm amazed at how he recommends a 70 or 80 mm refractor then ... uhhh.
I have a 60 and an 80 mm refractor and will take a shot at deep sky objects once I get to the wildlife refuge in January. Very dark and starry there.
Mike Ries You can shoot deep sky with a range of scopes. It just gets harder with long focal ratio ones like Maks and basically impossible with a 76mm Newt. Starting with nothing, a small apo refractor is the way to go BUT a fast cheap achromat gives you an intro. The point of the video is to show you what can be done with cheap kit.
@@mikeries8549 yeah that thing turned me off. Decided not to do astrophotography since I'm not an adult and don't have a consistent income. I have 750 Euros which roughly is 700 pounds and I will spend it on music equipment instead of astrophotography. A friend gave me his small newtonian.
I just found the meade adventure scope 80 for $50.00 :) going to be a guide scope.
Dude where are trhe specs??????
Oversamples?
It's about right i think with my DSLR?
Can you see galaxies with this scope with eyes?
Owen Thomas Hello Owen, from a site with little light pollution this scope will show the brighter galaxies but they will not look like they do in long exposure astrophotos. They will appear as grey smudges of light, definitely not star-like but also not great spirals of stars. The reality of visual astronomy is that small scopes don’t reveal galaxies that well. As In the video you can take decent photos with a scope of this size but those Images are very different from what you will see with your eye.
@@JenhamsAstro cool thanks. im looking for my first telescope,lightweight and portable enough to take hiking. what setup would you recommend ? thanks
@@owenthomas9863 check out the skywatcher star travel 102, nice widefield scope with great views. If you want a deeper view than that try the star travel 120.
Assuming other issues are taken care of a apochromatic scope shouldn't be needed just because a monochrome camera and some filters just removes the problem, sure you need to re focus but at least you don't need to spend extra on a apo.
Nice review. I swear by these. With a mono CCD the CA is negligible.
Thanks Garnett. Due to lockdown I've been dusting off some kit. The ST80 has made my GT81 look a bit expensive! Think I'll keep both though.
Really? You are using this and not and APO? I find the idea intriguing.
I have heard a yellow filter will help rid you of chromatic aberration
Dennis Rogers It will help, as will purple-eliminating UV or semi APO filters. But often you get another hue as a side effect. CA can be reduced with achromats but not eliminated at fast focal ratios. You need an APO design to fully avoid it.
@@JenhamsAstro true, but for deep sky stuff a doublet can work, but yes a triplet is best.
Why not use the Baader semi apo filter. This removes most of the CA
When people ask me about getting into astrophotography I ask them “what it is they want to photograph”. If they are interested in planets or glaxies the wide fields won;t cut it. Else if they point that short tube at a planet they will be disappointed they got the wrong gear and wasted their money.
Didnt watch teh video , but let me say YOU WILL BE THE WEAK LINK , oh yes you will . I run a 55-250mm DSLR lens , guess who the weak link is , yes its me . There is so much to learn that its no even funny , its hard , i started a year and a half ago with a 114mm Reflector , changed over to 80ED not that long ago , just got my Camera Modified and Guider installed .
And now when i have all the gear and cant complain , i see its me that is the weak link from the get go
Pavle Pavlovic Yes with modern kit the user is often the issue!
Nice Man but he’s got the Um habit can’t listen
Please DO NOT shoot planets with a DSLR. Get a good solar system camera or guide camera the image scale will be so much better.
Agreed. The video shows what you can achieve with a DSLR and for sure that does not include planets!
Well. I've used both. If you take a video with DSLR you can stack it. Im happy with my results. Stacking has been demonstrated here on this channel. A canon 60d allows crop mode which helps magnify. A nice feature for that model. I like that no laptop and table is needed, a DSLR can do both. BUT if one ONLY wants planet shots then a DSLR is not the best as stated.
Astrophotography is a black hole…don’t fall in, walk in.
Yes! I'm trying to get Jupiter right now; it's very tempting to throw money at it, but I'm seeing all of these multi-thousand-dollar setups, then thinking "what sort of day job must this person have to afford this?" My old job that I don't wish to go back to ;-)