NEVER use a hammer, use a rubber/plastic mallet on the bolts, you could sheer them off. Lubricate the center hole with anti-seize paste, where the rotor meets the wheel bub, not too much. Lubricate the steel brake pad guides & glide bolts with high temp grease. Use Toyota(or another brand) brake pad grease/quiet on the surface where the brake pad shims meet the back of the pads. ALWAYS bleed the brakes, doesn't take too long and very important. Even if you only replace the front pads, bleed all four lines starting with the right-rear, then left-rear, then right-front and lastly, left-front.
I think your video is great. Not too long, and to the point. I did notice you forgot to tell people to open the master cylinder to let the break fluid back when you depressed the caliper. It was still very helpful for me never having done a 2010 Corolla. Thanks
No, just open the bleed valve and let the trapped fluid in the slave cylinder squirt out when you compress the piston. This flushes the fluid out of the slave cylinder. Bleed the brakes all around to flush additional fluid, making sure to keep the master cylinder reservoir full. Keep the master cylinder capped when not adding fluid and keep the lid screwed onto the brake fluid container at all times: brake fluid has a high affinity for water and pulls humidity right out of the air which causes corrosion inside the cast iron master and slave cylinders.
My discs were stuck even more than yours. Hammering and prying didn't do anything. Finally, I got the idea of looking under the hood for a bolt that would fit into those two little holes on the disc. Aha! Found one that fits! THE BOLTS THAT ATTACH THE RADIATOR TO THE FRONT BRACE, RIGHT UP FRONT! I used one of those and tightened it into first one hole, then the other hole (Guess I could have used both radiator bolts, one in each hole) and pop!, the disc came off! The other side was a breeze, since I already knew to use that radiator bolt. Just remember to put it back when you're done! Otherwise your radiator might fall off!
Don't bang on a steel wrench with a steel hammer, use a deadblow hammer, they are only a few bucks. Wire brush the slots where the ends of the brake pads sit, & using a small brush or Q-tip wipe some brake pad lube,(Honda gives you a small tube of it) onto the slot, & where the piston pushs on the brake pad. When you remove the rotor, clean it up & lightly paint some anti seize where the rotor meets the hub to prevent it being nearly welded together next time..
@@Earl_Wallace ..thas right...some of these guys actually are paid shop employees , unfortunately, and your brakes will last about 15,000 miles, compared to 30,000 with same economy parts when you do those small things that make a big difference,
You the man Eugenio, great tutorial. No BS, he is using cheap tools, just take it off and put the new brakes and rotors on. This was basically a flip off to these over priced, over hyped mechanics lol and I love it.
Use an old brake pad to press the piston back in, pinch off the line to the master and open the bleeder port to dump the old worn out brake fluid into a old soda bottle . Try using a breaker bar or a ratchet with a pipe to break the 14 and 17 mm bolts free , don’t beat it apart and back together, turn the wheel so you can get to the bolts other than that great job bro !!
If I use a hammer to loosen a rotor I put the lugs nuts back on in case the hammer slips and hits the lug screws.I’d rather be buying new lug nuts than having to replace the lug screws.
After you've completed your job it's important to go out and use them that means stand on them hard the brakes that is you should be able to smell when they're seated
the bolt works perfectly. a hex, size M8 -1.25x30 available at Lowes or Home Depot. I brought my new rotor inside and found the right size bolt. good video, except for the metal hammer
Voy aser un video y te voy a enseñar como se canvian los frenos eres una persona muy susia para trabajar eso sease con amor 💖 ❤ veo que no te gusta lo que estas asiendo
Also, try not to touch the friction side of the pads with greasy fingers. for sure don't forget to spray the new rotor with brake cleaner. It ill have protective oil on it, plus you put greasy fingers all over when installing. If you don't clean it off, you WILL contaminate the new pads.
@@joehennes2809 Brake job s are one if the most basic procedures any mechanic learns. Why not do it right? No, the grease does not just burn off the first brake application. Go down to your local brake shop & ask if they don't give a scrap about grease on the pads/rotors/drums.
@@edwardhill6945 Contaminate? Meaning what? The brakes won't work? Not true. Wear out faster? Nope, not that either. That depends on how you drive more than anything else. Piffle. Large amounts would be a problem, but not finger prints. How hot do your brakes get? What is the flash point of oil/grease? You don't know. Of course a mechanic is going to say he/she cleans everything carefully, be pretty stupid not to say that. Doesn't mean they do it. I got 115,000 miles off the front pads I just replaced and they weren't even worn all the way out. I think I can live with that. Holy cow, you replied within minutes to a post you made YEARS ago. Wow. Get a life. Like, in the real world, not online.
@@joehennes2809 I do have a life.Wondering why you would comment on an old post. Currently sitting on my dock with a cold one. Gmail sent me a notice about a reply, I certainly don't monitor old posts. Carry on with Hillbilly mechanics, but it only takes a bit of extra time to do it right. I work in aerospace applications, & very high pressures. That considerably affects flash points, as does each particular lubricant. Unless you know the exact lube, no one knows the flashpoint.
@@edwardhill6945Sorry, it is a weakness of mine to pierce big egos, I try not to go online at all because of it. You were not trying to be helpful, you were trying to be a know-it-all. If you had actually been trying to be helpful, you could have said something along the lines of, "You don't need to go out and spend a lot of money on a bottle of brake cleaner solution you will never use again, simply wipe it off with a clean dry rag, maybe with some soapy water first." That would have been sufficient, and still unnecessary. If the lubricant on those rotors could in any way degrade the performance of the rotors or brakes, the manufacturer would be required by Federal law to put a warning on the box to that effect. Simple fact. More likely, it would not be legal to put it on them at all. There would be lawsuits out the ying-yang otherwise. Odd. I never heard that "do it right" included doing things that don't need to be done at all.
Too thin nowadays to even turn once. If you find thicker, you will pay upwards of $90 each. Then, on a Corolla, you have to ask yourself if it's not better to let a shop do the whole job for $450.
I pretty much did the same job skipping a few steps drove another 80K, and the breaks look good with no stopping problems, but I suppose if you wanted 200K on the rotors you shouldn't take any shortcuts..
@@vazq10070 no push man. it is your car; you do what you like. BUT I would like to point you to a few mistakes: lubrication, rust cleaning grease cleaning has not been done - this is important. please research around how to do it properly. I would also recommend you use any kind of torque wrench. Have a good and productive week.
It makes it so much easier to turn the wheel to get to the bolts on the back.
You need to use brake cleaner on the rotors before and after you install those as well as lubricate the caliper pins.
NEVER use a hammer, use a rubber/plastic mallet on the bolts, you could sheer them off. Lubricate the center hole with anti-seize paste, where the rotor meets the wheel bub, not too much. Lubricate the steel brake pad guides & glide bolts with high temp grease. Use Toyota(or another brand) brake pad grease/quiet on the surface where the brake pad shims meet the back of the pads. ALWAYS bleed the brakes, doesn't take too long and very important. Even if you only replace the front pads, bleed all four lines starting with the right-rear, then left-rear, then right-front and lastly, left-front.
I like your version better... the average joe.. struggling to loosen it version. Very helpful. Thankyou.
I think your video is great. Not too long, and to the point. I did notice you forgot to tell people to open the master cylinder to let the break fluid back when you depressed the caliper. It was still very helpful for me never having done a 2010 Corolla.
Thanks
No, just open the bleed valve and let the trapped fluid in the slave cylinder squirt out when you compress the piston. This flushes the fluid out of the slave cylinder. Bleed the brakes all around to flush additional fluid, making sure to keep the master cylinder reservoir full. Keep the master cylinder capped when not adding fluid and keep the lid screwed onto the brake fluid container at all times: brake fluid has a high affinity for water and pulls humidity right out of the air which causes corrosion inside the cast iron master and slave cylinders.
My discs were stuck even more than yours. Hammering and prying didn't do anything. Finally, I got the idea of looking under the hood for a bolt that would fit into those two little holes on the disc. Aha! Found one that fits! THE BOLTS THAT ATTACH THE RADIATOR TO THE FRONT BRACE, RIGHT UP FRONT! I used one of those and tightened it into first one hole, then the other hole (Guess I could have used both radiator bolts, one in each hole) and pop!, the disc came off! The other side was a breeze, since I already knew to use that radiator bolt. Just remember to put it back when you're done! Otherwise your radiator might fall off!
Don't bang on a steel wrench with a steel hammer, use a deadblow hammer, they are only a few bucks.
Wire brush the slots where the ends of the brake pads sit, & using a small brush or Q-tip wipe some brake pad lube,(Honda gives you a small tube of it) onto the slot, & where the piston pushs on the brake pad.
When you remove the rotor, clean it up & lightly paint some anti seize where the rotor meets the hub to prevent it being nearly welded together next time..
MAke a full video Edward!
@@Earl_Wallace ..thas right...some of these guys actually are paid shop employees , unfortunately, and your brakes will last about 15,000 miles, compared to 30,000 with same economy parts when you do those small things that make a big difference,
You the man Eugenio, great tutorial. No BS, he is using cheap tools, just take it off and put the new brakes and rotors on. This was basically a flip off to these over priced, over hyped mechanics lol and I love it.
Glad your wearing your steel toe safety sandals.
use a lug nut finger tight to hold rotor on while putting it back together!
Use an old brake pad to press the piston back in, pinch off the line to the master and open the bleeder port to dump the old worn out brake fluid into a old soda bottle . Try using a breaker bar or a ratchet with a pipe to break the 14 and 17 mm bolts free , don’t beat it apart and back together, turn the wheel so you can get to the bolts other than that great job bro !!
I watched your video and it help me completed the jobs, Thank you
Great video man helped me out a ton
set an old brake pad in there to help with the clamp
You need to clean the grease off the rotor before you put the pads on. The grease will damage the pads and shorten their life.
Great video! Thanks for the info!!
If I use a hammer to loosen a rotor I put the lugs nuts back on in case the hammer slips and hits the lug screws.I’d rather be buying new lug nuts than having to replace the lug screws.
Gracias por su video
After you've completed your job it's important to go out and use them that means stand on them hard the brakes that is you should be able to smell when they're seated
excellent bro
SuperThanks
The red thing he was using,is called a ratchet wrench.for those who are curious.
An m8 1.25×25mm works great to remove stuck rotors
great video
when pressing down your calipers, use a new pad and press c clamp in middle
Zach Harris use an old pad. You don't want to chance damaging the new one.
Thanks, usefull video, my rotors were stucked, like yours and i didnt know, how totake them out .
Ami. Megusta la mecanica
Como poner los frenos
Nomas. Secoquito
Quiero saber mas
the bolt works perfectly. a hex, size M8 -1.25x30 available at Lowes or Home Depot. I brought my new rotor inside and found the right size bolt. good video, except for the metal hammer
Voy aser un video y te voy a enseñar como se canvian los frenos eres una persona muy susia para trabajar eso sease con amor 💖 ❤ veo que no te gusta lo que estas asiendo
Also, try not to touch the friction side of the pads with greasy fingers. for sure don't forget to spray the new rotor with brake cleaner. It ill have protective oil on it, plus you put greasy fingers all over when installing. If you don't clean it off, you WILL contaminate the new pads.
Be real. Any grease or oil you get on the pads is going to burn off the first time you use the brakes for more than a few seconds.
@@joehennes2809 Brake job s are one if the most basic procedures any mechanic learns. Why not do it right?
No, the grease does not just burn off the first brake application. Go down to your local brake shop & ask if they don't give a scrap about grease on the pads/rotors/drums.
@@edwardhill6945 Contaminate? Meaning what? The brakes won't work? Not true. Wear out faster? Nope, not that either. That depends on how you drive more than anything else. Piffle. Large amounts would be a problem, but not finger prints. How hot do your brakes get? What is the flash point of oil/grease? You don't know. Of course a mechanic is going to say he/she cleans everything carefully, be pretty stupid not to say that. Doesn't mean they do it. I got 115,000 miles off the front pads I just replaced and they weren't even worn all the way out. I think I can live with that.
Holy cow, you replied within minutes to a post you made YEARS ago. Wow. Get a life. Like, in the real world, not online.
@@joehennes2809 I do have a life.Wondering why you would comment on an old post.
Currently sitting on my dock with a cold one. Gmail sent me a notice about a reply, I certainly don't monitor old posts. Carry on with Hillbilly mechanics, but it only takes a bit of extra time to do it right.
I work in aerospace applications, & very high pressures. That considerably affects flash points, as does each particular lubricant. Unless you know the exact lube, no one knows the flashpoint.
@@edwardhill6945Sorry, it is a weakness of mine to pierce big egos, I try not to go online at all because of it. You were not trying to be helpful, you were trying to be a know-it-all. If you had actually been trying to be helpful, you could have said something along the lines of, "You don't need to go out and spend a lot of money on a bottle of brake cleaner solution you will never use again, simply wipe it off with a clean dry rag, maybe with some soapy water first." That would have been sufficient, and still unnecessary. If the lubricant on those rotors could in any way degrade the performance of the rotors or brakes, the manufacturer would be required by Federal law to put a warning on the box to that effect. Simple fact. More likely, it would not be legal to put it on them at all. There would be lawsuits out the ying-yang otherwise. Odd. I never heard that "do it right" included doing things that don't need to be done at all.
And you are supposed to hit the rotor..it won't break it or do any damage,your replacing it anyways right
What brand rotor did you buy? And what thickness? Any website or link?
Are there torque specs for any of these bolts?
what is the dimension(thickness) of the brake rotors?
Too thin nowadays to even turn once. If you find thicker, you will pay upwards of $90 each. Then, on a Corolla, you have to ask yourself if it's not better to let a shop do the whole job for $450.
Ratchets are overrated
as well as impact wrenches...and torque wrenches...But I like the torque wrench , fewer warped rotors.
"Use this one,17 inch" lmao..u mean 17mm bro
He did say he is not a mechanic, wow it shows.
He got the job done wouldn't you say? These glorified mechanics do more than necessary so they can charge you more.
Yes he completed the job but he skipped a lot of steps which is very critical.
I pretty much did the same job skipping a few steps drove another 80K, and the breaks look good with no stopping problems, but I suppose if you wanted 200K on the rotors you shouldn't take any shortcuts..
Well sometimes if you get lucky you can skip a lot of steps and it will be just fine, but better safe than sorry you know.
Step like what?
Thanx for the vid but please wear some close toed shoes, I’m getting anxiety just watching this lol jk
Good thing I did not post a video, I did not wear shoes at all, you would have had a heart attack. :)
I would not buy car after you....
No problem don't worry im not selling cars and its been 4 years since that video no problems ever thanks for the comment have a good one .
@@vazq10070 no push man. it is your car; you do what you like. BUT I would like to point you to a few mistakes: lubrication, rust cleaning grease cleaning has not been done - this is important. please research around how to do it properly. I would also recommend you use any kind of torque wrench.
Have a good and productive week.
The worst way to do that!!!